Superb video. I spent some years teaching electronics, as well as being an inveterate constructor myself. All the key stuff is covered. Could have been boring, but very well presented and explained. Your synthesiser demo is better than a lot of modern "music".
Thanks for the kind words +Stephen Cook. If it helped just one person to get this kit working, it was worth it. I know too well (from when I started a long time ago!) the disappointment & frustration when it all goes pear-shaped :)
The first kit I made was in 1969, a Sinclair Micromatic 'matchbox' radio. I never did get that to work and support was non-existent. Really looking forward to building this 'scope.
+spacial2 - you had the posh one :) I had the mark 1 version - the Micro 6, and if memory serves correctly, I was listening to this on my paper-round 50 years ago when they launched Radio 1 with Flowers In The Rain! (there are anniversary programs early tomorrow morning - 30th Sept). Also remember using the radio at school - it was small enough to fit in my pocket with the earpiece lead running up my sleeve, so if you rested your head against your hand, nobody knew you were tuning in! Hope you have better luck with the scope :)
This is a very well done video and I enjoyed it enough to watch it twice! I am on step 16 of 22 so most of my parts are in. The two page concise build instruction manual included in the kit is, IMHO, a model of its kind. The pictures are crisp and match the parts, the parts are labeled (and counted) correctly. The parts match the instructions exactly, the circuit board is labeled very clearly and accurately. I have put together much more expensive kits that were not near the overall quality of this kit. The instructions were obviously prepared by (1) someone with a talent for writing instructions, (not a common skill BTW), (2) someone that had assembled the kit his or herself, and (3) someone that wanted the person building the kit to actually build it. The few extra tips and notes are spot on. Kudos to JYE-Tech for doing such an impressive job regardless of the fact it was for a $25 scope. And your video is in the same spirit. Thanks for posting this and good job! :-)
Cheers +John Cantlin and thanks for the input. Agree with kudos to jye-tech; there's even support on their forum if it doesn't work. Hope yours turns out ok when finished.
Extremely well done tutorial. I received this kit as a Christmas gift and following your guidance assembled it over a few evenings. A bit to my surprise and delight, it works perfectly. Thank you!
I watched several videos about assembling and using this DIY oscilloscope, since I've neither built nor used one before. This was by far my favorite. Plenty of useful and practical tips at a level that is easy to understand without being at all condescending. Excellent!! Thanks for taking the time to put this video together; I found it very helpful.
@Bonnie Baxter thanks for the kind words Bonnie. If you're thinking of building one, there are other versions available - there used to be the DSO-150 but can't seem to find it on jyetech's site so even that one may have been superseded. It was a bit more expensive so search around for the best deal, but the case is included and it has some nice enhancements such as the rotary wheel instead of the +/- buttons. I think you may also have to solder the surface-mount resistors yourself so double-check this if you're not confident about soldering these - the model has been out for a while so they may have 2 versions of the kit just like the DSO-138. Good luck and thanks again for stopping by.
You are a great instructor, Phil. Glad that you've shared this weekend project to guide us on a similar journey one day soon. Your presentation is so clear and very easy to follow. Thnaks again, Phil!
I’m a complete novice still awaiting mine to come through the post. Thank you, I will return to this video again when I’m building it and will let you know how I get on.
@Mark Harris good luck Mark... just remember a few people have had components with incorrect values, so always "check twice, solder once" :) Thanks for stopping by.
Thank you for taking the time to make this excellent video and sharing your knowledge. I am a new General license ham operator and have become fascinated by this whole new world of electrical wizardry. It is instructors like you who keep me motivated to learn more. 73, KM4 VGO
+T Faber no problem - glad you found it useful. Well my first hobby decades ago was electronics & radio - had a few years on the air as G3YSI, but then life & other interests took over! Am now retired so am enjoying revisiting my youth... and all the tech advances since those valve days :) Thanks for the feedback, and 73's to you too.
Hi Phil...a comment from your old mate! Just wanted to say that I am most impressed with the professionalism of this video. Watching it took me back to the days in Mirfield when you and I were just starting out in electronics. VCAs, VCOs, ring modulators, Switched-On Bach, CQ20, 73s and so on. All the best, my friend...John
@John P Coates good to hear from you John. Thanks for the kind words - surprised you just found this as it's been up a few years - you'll be moving onto the sequetron and dp24 tutorials next! Thought the scope was a tiny niche project but have had lots of interest so good to know enthusiasts are still out there :) Did you recognise those old resistors - some may even be relics from Mac of Morley in Leeds or Padgett's Radio in Liversedge... all long gone I presume, but happy memories. All the best to you as well, and keep in touch.
I loved this video. I've been on the fence about this kit for some time, not sure if it would actually be useful to a beginner electronics enthusiast like myself. But I couldn't justify the cost of a "real" oscilloscope because, again, I'm just a beginner and don't have the experience necessary to properly appreciate and make the most of such high-end tools. So as you said, this kit might be useful for someone at my level as a learning tool. I've decided to order it and give it a try. Your pro-tip about alternating pins when soldering them to avoid heat buildup is very appreciated too. Thank you so much for this video!
I just purchased one of these and it arrived two days ago. I am impressed with the kit. All the parts are there and all pass the initial testing. I also ordered the clear case but it has not arrived [yet]. After reading some of the other viewers comments I am now concerned if it will ever arrive. I do hope it does arrive as it makes for a very nice installation. Thank you for this video. I really appreciate your work to produce and upload it.Regards, K7RMJ
Thanks for the feedback +cuban9splat. If you ordered the case on ebay, they'll have given you a 'latest delivery' date, so once that passes you should be able to claim a refund. May need to wait several weeks though if it came from China. Mine was from ebay user wishyou-happy. Hope you get it sorted. 73's, Phil (ex-G3YSI)
I ordered it through Amazon and checked on it again last night. It is being shipped from a warehouse in Canada and that explains the delay. Shipments from Canada usually take 10 days longer than normal. So, I expect to receive it in another week or so. The scope went together quite nicely, in large part due to some of the hints given in your video. Thank you again for the very well done video. 73, Frank K7RMJ
This is a great review and tutorial. You make a good point that this should not be dismissed as junk. Someone put a lot of work into this design so that it can be in my hands for about $25 shipped. 20 years ago the PCB alone would be $20. It can certainly be a very useful tool for certain applications. Thanks for your efforts in putting this tutorial together.
Thanks for the feedback +aviatorbja. Apologies for delay in replying but TH-cam messages don't seem to flag up in my email so I only see them if I go and look! You're quite right, I find it disrespectful when people slag these things off just because it doesn't meet their requirements.
thank you for taking the time (your time) to be thorough, patient and methodical in this process. I have watched this several times and YES IT IS BORING but i know i need it to remember the basics and fundamentals before starting my installation. thanks again.
Thanks +Alpha Deicide, yes it's a good test - if you have the patience to watch the video, then there's a good chance you have enough patience to build the kit without making mistakes :) Good luck.
Excellent video...you inspired me to order one and give it a shot. I also liked how you went into detail about testing each component before soldering to prevent issues or errors. Thank you for putting this out
Great video Phil mate, many thanks, clear precise and to the point as well as entertaining. After 60 years in Electronics I still enjoyed this build... do we never grow up?
Thanks +Fred Jones. I'm also revisiting my childhood hobbies - lots of exciting things around now like micro-controllers and sensors etc... and so much cheaper too :)
Great and detailed rundown of the building process. I got this kit recently, and I found the provided instructions to be exceptionally good for this kind of kit; extensive and easy to follow, but it's always great to know the potential pitfalls during the build so thanks for this video. My 104 caps also read ~0.067uF instead (despite being labeled 104), but the kit works fine with them, so I'm guessing their value is not critical.
Thanks +Elias Zacarias. Yes, I think you get away with it as none of the 11 x 0.1uF capacitors are used for critical timing - the majority are for decoupling power lines. Glad the build was successful.
I built the SMD soldering version my self today and it works fine. Thank you for your video and your informations. Reading the manual is strongly recommended.
@transition65 that's brilliant - hats off to you :) I've only tried a few smd components on a breadboard but not on a full project, so thanks for showing it's do-able.
Excellent video. I just finished putting together the board and was puzzling about how the hell all those case pars went together. Thanks to your video I am no longer puzzled.
@Fred Townroe caused me some head-scratching too :) Impressive how the parts are cut so accurately though... started me wanting a laser CNC machine! Thanks for stopping by Fred.
FANTASTIC! I need to acquire a couple of these kits one door my self and one for my son! Just to get us started in this crazy,fun,intriguing hobby! Good video!!! 👍
+Austin&Vicky Moore thanks for the feedback. Make sure you get the kits with the surface mount components already mounted (as in this video) or they may be too fiddly to solder... but your choice :) Also check out the newer kits on the jye website - there's another one similar to this, but with a rotary dial for changing the settings. This might be easier to use than pressing + and - buttons. Either way, have fun with them and good luck with the build(s) - just be patient and check & double-check everything to guarantee success first time :)
Thank you so much for this informative video, it's exactly what I needed to see before building my one. My case has arrived but the board is still in the mail and I'm really looking forward to building it! But I would have just put it together and then probably run into all the problems you highlighted so you have possibly saved me the cost of a second board! Thanks again :)
A really fine video! Thank you for going into such detail - you make it all so clear. Even I now believe I could make one of these, and it looks quite adequate for checking amplifiers and so on.
Excellent tutorial. And a welcome relief from the overuse of the words "um" and "uh" so prevalent in lesser videos. I've built many kits and built many projects straight from schematics and never thought to measure and test all the components. But it's a very good idea and will save a lot of guesswork later if troubleshooting is needed. By the way, using an ohm meter to check LEDs is a terrific idea. Saves one from the trouble of rigging up a battery, test leads and resistor to check them.
tip: you can also squeeze with tweezers/pilers on the root of the component (before the component and after the location of soldering) to transfer the heat away from the component
Thank you. Watched the video before I started construction of the 'scope, did all the component checks and taped them to a sheet of paper with the measured values noted. I then had it going (with frequent pauses) as I built the 'scope, which was a multi-hour process over several days. The firmware ends in 60, so it's effectively current (61 is available but just adds support for another LCD display controller). Only the case needs to be completed and I'll get to that tomorrow. JYETech offers a DC-DC converter (USB or 3.8 volt lithium cell in for 9 volts out). I'll be adding that, a 2650 mah lithium cell, a USB charge/protection board (TP4056) for the lithium cell and an extension to the case to contain those parts. My intended use is checking output waveforms of DC-AC inverters (12 volts DC to 120 volts AC). Using a 10x scope probe effectively increases the 50v peak-to-peak rating of the DSO138 to 500v p-to-p so a plastic-cased 'scope running on a battery is the ideal tool for doing that checking - nothing grounded, nothing in a metal case. Depending on the efficiency of the DC-DC converter, the 2650 mah cell could provide 6 hours of continuous operation.
Sounds a great idea +notyoung so many thanks for sharing. One thing to watch maybe... there are pads on the PCB around the bolt holes, so if you use metal bolts and nuts to hold it in place, they'll be at ground potential. There were some nice rounded stud nuts with my case which make attractive 'feet', but you need to be careful what you stand it on!
@rockett crawford Good question :) I think some do it out of spite or are overly picky - TH-cam should have a 'reason' field to fill in, then we can maybe address the problem... but no worries, I just ignore it :) Thank *you* for taking the time to comment - much appreciated, and glad the video helped. There are more recent kits from jyetech.com which have improvements over this one, such as a rotary wheel for changing settings. Good luck with your build(s), whatever you decide to make.
Hobbyking have these on clearance at the moment for £2.50, so despite not really knowing what an oscilloscope does or what I might use it for, I have bought myself one as soldering practice. Thank you for this excellent tutorial
@Tsnafu wow, that's an amazing price :) - almost worth getting a couple just for spares... or even a spare screen for another project! Thanks for the feedback and good luck with the build.
I agree with S. Cook...a superb presentation presenting lots of hard-earned practical experience...I can only imagine your hands-on experience of a lifetime as not unlike my own...I bought one of these for my son for monitoring, of all things synth audio...he built it ( I did also instruct him to verify R values, but not to perform some of the other component level test you did...)...his solder work was acceptable, and on first power-up, although it showed 3.3V in the initial tests, it did not work beyond that...I should have had him follow this excellent presentation...I guess I'll give it a closer look now and try to find and sort the problem. When I do, I'll update these comments with findings to help the next builder. I agree also with your statement that when operated within its capabilities, and when not expecting it to do magic beyond that, it seems like quite a useful little tool to add to a testbench...it doesn't take up a lot of room, and being able to see voltage with respect to time characteristics is invaluable...now, I just need to get it working...Thanks for posting, and Cheers from Connecticut!
+Ronplucksstrings thanks for the kind words Ron. Sorry to hear it didn't work first time; hope your son was not too disappointed. Fault-finding is good experience though... just hope nothing serious has been damaged. There are a few 'typical' faults, such as mixing up the 7805 and 7905 parts or forgetting to short out all the links, although the former is ok if you've measured +3.3v. Just keep working your way through the trouble-shooting section and the circuit diagram and hopefully you'll crack it. The jretech forum may also be able to help if you get stuck. Good luck, and season's greetings to you both.
Phil; I got it working! ...after a good visual inspection (all was as expected with no silly errors), but still touching up some iffy looking solder joints (with lead solder, yippee...lead-free solder sucks!), then connected a fresh 9V battery and followed the instructions, which included soldering in a jumper after the initial power supply checks [A. ...short JP4 with solder permanently.] ...it did indeed come alive as expected. Its amazing what a little RTFM will do... We then used it to monitor some KORG minilogue outputs...perfectly and much nicer than the integrated micro (30X15mm) display! I have ordered a case for its protection. I might get another one of these toys for myself...they are just too cute, and well suited for audio work...back in my school days, we would have given a small body part for something like this... Cheers
@@ronplucksstrings7112 that's excellent news Ron... and just in time for Christmas :) Thanks for sharing the info. If you're considering another one, the DSO-150 is an improved model www.jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/e150.php It's a bit more expensive so search around for the best deal, but the case is included and it has some nice enhancements such as the rotary wheel instead of the +/- buttons. I think you *may* also have to solder the surface-mount resistors yourself so double-check this if you're not confident about soldering these - the model has been out for a while so they may have 2 versions of the kit just like the DSO-138. All the best.
I ordered this kit a few days before I discovered your video, so found it very interesting. Thank you for your detailed video I will certainly use some of your tips.
what an excellent video, I hopped on to learn HOW to use my new oscilloscope but learned so much more - ways to measure components, how to read capacitor values. Oddly enough my 'kit' came pre-assembled although I did not order it as such. The fiddly part was getting the case together without instructions but I like puzzles so it was an enjoyable challenge. THEN (as I did not RTM) I realized I needed to take the case apart to calibrate my probes. My new mantra is RTM RTM RTM :) Thank you for putting this guide together sir.
This is such a good video. The content and presentation are just excellent. Thank you Phil, this is just what I need. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos.
@Mark McCluney thank you Mark, glad you liked it. I've not made any more construction videos as detailed as this, although the latest PlasMa project shows what happens when you get a bit carried away ;) th-cam.com/video/qgo8tZTJ1vo/w-d-xo.html
I have a couple of LCR meters that are quite capable of measuring very small capacitances and inductances because I need them for building crystal radios and need to verify coils and caps for proper tuning. Very handy meters and relatively cheap as well.
Phil, I am late to the dance here, but wanted to compliment you on your video. It was evenly paced and deliberate. Also, your thoughtful sentiments at the beginning struck the right note. This is NOT a Tek 465 or 2465 or a Rigol, but it is a decent and useful little tool that could come in handy for those on a budget.
Thank you! The problem in the firmware was found - it's jumper JP2 bad soldering, it was solved by flashing the latest firmware ... 61, but the problem did not disappear, I bought DSO138 already ready (assembled). I think that I touched the board with my hand when the device was turned on. Thank you for your attention!
@m m Glad you fixed the flashing problem, but sorry to hear the original problem is still there. When you say the beam has disappeared, are the other parts of the display working? If they are, it suggests the main computer chip is all ok, and that the problem is with one of the other components. As far as I know, the other components are fairly robust so are unlikely to be damaged by static when you touched the board... unless you think you may have shorted something. If JP2 was badly soldered, it might be worth checking all the other joints with a magnifying glass. If you bought it ready assembled, why not just complain to the seller and see if you can get a refund?
@@philtipping Maybe you will be interested in solving my problem. This is solved by switching the CPL switch to the GND position SEN1 to position 1V/ SEN2 to position x1/left triangle on the display to select and press and hold SW4 for a few seconds, the beam appears
@@mm-lw3lo Thank you for the follow-up. It seems a strange solution and I don't understand why it worked, but glad you got it fixed :) Thanks for sharing.
Thanks god for this instructional video! I ordered the kit by accident and the included instructions aren't sufficient. Sitting down to enjoy this on a new year's day afternoon :)
Thanks +andy pandy. Well as long you take it slow and careful, you should be ok... although if you're a novice to soldering, would recommend trying something simpler first. There are plenty of cheaper kits which use PCBs. Here are a few examples which are between 1 & 2 GBP - you may just need patience for delivery ;) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301566828290. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271839349072. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361338713791. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252157924936. Can't vouch for these myself, but even if they're not useful to you, they should be good practice... and won't break the bank if you mess up. Good luck.
I wouldn't say I'm a novice with soldering, but I am a novice when it comes to electrical components. So these little PCBs are perfect for learning the basics of how a circuit works. Thank you!!
Earned a sub. Great narration and very easy to follow. I just threw one of these kits together last night and it was a good experience. Had no real problems and so far my only complaint with it is the included power adapter has much too short of a cable on it. But still, I was really shocked by how clear and well illustrated the instructions were. I've tried a few other cheap kits and things like that from China and it's almost always what you'd expect; crap. Poorly assembled, poorly tested, etc. This however did not show any of those signs. The PCB had very clear and precise markings, the instructions did not contain any broken english, the SMD components were all properly soldered, and best of all the included trouble shooting guide and flow charts are also insanely useful and easy to follow. All of the components were provided and all of them also had reasonable measurements. Actually, my other complaint apart from the included power adapter are how none of the pin headers have anchor pins to force them to properly align with the PCB. Soldering those was a bit of a nightmare for me. The bigger ones were fine but the smaller ones kept twisting on me. In any case, super good kit. For basic use it's fantastic and it's a fun building experience.
Thanks +spartan456 - glad yours was a good experience so thanks for sharing. I too found the header pins tricky to align, so the trick with soldering just one pin first as shown was very useful. The other method mentioned was to leave all the headers till the end and plug the 2 boards together *before* soldering... but I'm not entirely convinced as you could end up with both sets being misaligned with their PCBs so although they would fit perfectly with each other, you would be unable to swap boards if ever you needed to in future. I think my preference would be to just have the patience to align them with the PCB in the first place :) Interesting that yours included a PSU - mine didn't so had to hunt around for something suitable. Have also stuck a 9v battery to the side of the case with a short power cable (standard 9v arduino connector) for portable use - works a treat.
Phil Tipping I just finished building a nixie tube clock that had similar arrangements of headers, and on that one the instructions recommended plugging the males into the females and then aligning them, and then sticking the boards down to solder the headers. It actually worked out VERY well since they were all aligned perfectly, and they are more than capable of being disconnected. Definitely a lot easier for me than trying to line them up by hand. I tried tacking a single pin but after reheating it several times and still being not perfect, I didn't want to chance heating it any more.
Excellent video, I wanted to find out a little about this kit and your video provided all I needed to know. Hats off you also provided a great beginner tuto in using a multimeter and soldering. A really great job.
Yes the old 3 stripe carbon resistors........Remember the body/tip/spot types? Very good video sir. What I did with the BNC connector was to warm it and the PCB up with a heat gun. Not too hot, just enough to help the soldering iron out a bit. So far the DSO-138 has proved to be a good (very) basic instrument accurate enough for most hobby applications.
@Chris Norton thanks Chris. Yes I remember those resistors... and the waxy capacitors! Come a long way since then :) Good tip with the BNC. Have only just bought a heat gun - wish I'd done this years ago... the bedroom hair dryer isn't quite the same :)
UPDATE: I spent a couple of enjoyable afternoons assembling my kit. (bought from Banggood, and it appears to be genuine.) The most useful thing I did in preparation for the build was watch your video! (this is the first time I have ever tried anything like this.) Two sheets of paper; assembly and operating instructions did not seem to be enough... in fact they covered everything, very clearly, and in GOOD English! The only hiccup was the point where assembly is complete, and you test various voltages before you solder JP3 and plug in the display panel. You are told what points to test with the positive multimeter probe, but you are not told where to connect the negative probe. I assumed (wrongly) that I should connect it to the ground power feed... this gave incorrect readings. Luckily I experimented (blundered about), and found that using the DGND pin gave the right answers. BINGO! Twenty four hours later and my trace went wild with nothing connected to it :o( More blundering about and I found my lousy soldering had made a perfect "dry-joint". Easily fixed, and it has worked fine since. The case is slightly different to yours, and it has space for the Power Inductor without modification. Would I recommend it? ABSOLUTELY!! If you are dabbling with Arduinos, Raspberry Pi's, hobby robotics, RC etc. This may be of use. It is what it is; it only cost a few bucks... it cannot compete with a thousand dollar machine. (If you need dual traces, buy two of these, you will still be hundreds of bucks ahead.) Have fun; I did. :o) ORIGINAL: Thanks Phil! I have just received my kit, and in preparation I thought I would check out TH-cam. So glad I did; your video covered everything I had concerns about. Well produced, clearly described, and perfectly paced. Right on the money... liked and subscribed.
I learned the hard way to always check each component before you solder it in place. Had a diode that was marked backwards resulting in blown fuses upon power up. Fortunately only the fuses took damage.
Many thanks +Animarkzero - my first encounters with that synth are at www.philizound.co.uk/freebies/modular-synth/modular-synth.html with a hint of what was to come at th-cam.com/video/kZH_DTGYOcM/w-d-xo.html
Hi Phill I must say very clear and very understandable, thank you for the video, i wanted a oscilloscope to refresh my mind and get back into projects thank you you really have got me back into it .
Thanks +Mentes Mehmet. I'm a bit the same - left electronics behind years ago and now reviving the hobby - if you're into computing, there's a fascinating world of micro-controller projects out there :)
Beautiful dotcom! Great vid, I bought this module for calibration of my diy Eurorack modules - Hopefully it's up to the task, though for the price, I'm happy just for the soldering practice. Thank you for making the effort to make this video.
I avoided all the headache and aggravation, and ordered my DSO138 completely assembled. It only cost a few bucks more (Amazon.com) than the kit form. Only thing I needed to solder on mine was a jumper loop on J2 large enough to accomodate an alligator clip, so I could use the board's test signal to fine tune C4 and C6 trimmers for best wave shape.
Sure thing Phil. I just thought I'd pass the info along, just in case some of your viewers decided not to bother after watching. The DSO138 is really a surprisingly decent performing little workhorse considering its throw away price. I use both of mine for the very first stages of diagnosis, where working conditions can be best described as 'trench like' and the precision of a machine like my Tektronix is grievous overkill. My expensive machine is forever indebted to them too for doing all the grunt work, LOL. PS...absolutely LOVE the analog sound! There's just no substitute for it. I have an old Crumar analog with the original gig bag I picked up in non-working condition for 25 bucks at a yard sale many many moons ago. All it needed was a 4 dollar IC that I actually had on hand at the time. I didn't even have to heat up the iron because this Crumar used socket mount IC's....took me back to the good old pull and swap vacuum tube days hahaha.
It's a great example though so thanks for sharing - it just shows how misguided those people are who write them off as cr*p under the false assumption that all scopes should be 10MHz plus! I would have loved one of these as a youngster to complement my coveted multi-meter, although maybe I would never have been spurred on to build a scope from Practical Electronics - that was my first valve project :) Nice find with the Crumar and well done for fixing it. A friend uncovered one when they moved house, but it was in a very poor state; mould & rust everywhere with chips missing - sacrilege. All the best.
+Alledged Offender yes the scope looks a bit out of place :) there's more info & videos about it here www.philizound.co.uk/freebies/modular-synth/modular-synth.html
After watching several videos on this scope, I decided to bite the bullet and buy one.I had been using one I built using an Arduino but the tiny screen was very hard to read with my ancient eyes. So I wanted one with a case included, and went with the DSO 150. I never could get it to work properly so I broke down and purchased one of these, however after screwing up the 150 I found one built an purchased it ready to go out of the box. I think the cost was 8 bucks more, well worth it in my case. After getting the new one, I ordered the plastic case because I use it traveling and wanted the protection. I am on the third one of the cases, first one came with no hardware. Second one came in pieces but most of the hardware however the button extensions were broken. Still waiting for the third but I have it working now using a screw driver to move the switches missing the extensions. Then it dawned on me, after reading one of my own complaints what was wrong with the 150, it was the button! I replaced it with a new rotary encoder and now it too works good, Oh and I had to replace one of the variable cap's as it would not calibrate. So now I have three little scopes, the smallest is in an Altoids can, and the largest is this one, which I think I like the most as it is easiest to set up for the testing of circuits.
Wow. You have actually provided a fairly complete, basic electronic component testing overview, here. You should remix and upload this video with a title geared toward just that. It could help many people in general component testing. Great stuff!
Very good video, I built one it works fine. The description of the number coding of the small capacitors was quite informative. I ordered the plastic case from aliexpress but it never came. The company JYE put together a great kit and instructions, the circuit board is very well marked and good quality. The small capacitor values varied on mine just like this video and could be a problem when using the on screen tables. In the end the triggering and wave forms are good but the voltage reading are a bit off and vary when you change sweep speed. I used a ac-dc buck converter to power it with no noise problems.
Thanks +Joseph Nicholas, good point re. non-exact values - I'll check the voltage readings on mine. Have ordered stuff from aliexpress before and had no problem so hope you get it sorted.
On VOM - the test voltages are reversed. Analog Volt Meter - when measuring resistance. Protecting the 9 Volt supply (From over-voltage.) Consider using a 9 volt Zener diode for protection.
Thanks +Otis Brown. Yes the different polarities between analog and digital test meters is mentioned, but always best to check - if you don't have a 2nd meter to check it, connect an LED to see which way round lights up. Re. zener protection - the device already has a power regulator so it can handle up to 12volts so there's no need to protect it at 9v. If you do use a zener for protection, you'll need more than just the zener diode otherwise it will burn out when the voltage exceeds its value. If you put a resistor in series to limit the current, this will also be in series with the power supply to the device, so you'll need to allow for power dissipated in the resistor, and also the voltage drop across it... it's not quite as simple as putting a simple zener across the supply, unless you can get one which acts like a crowbar and shorts out when the voltage is too high.
I built one myself and I understand the fake ones have a black colored board, so it looks like the real deal to me. I really had no trouble with the build and am happy with the unit. The case was a bit tricky and not well thought out by the developer, but does secure it and protect the electronics. Over all a nice fun kit to build, I would do it again.
Thanks for sharing C MJ. Yes I wasn't sure as the forum also mentions a product ID on genuine PCBs. Mine doesn't have one but there was nothing else to suggest it was fake - all instructions were supplied and very good quality, all components were present and the f/w upgrade worked. There is a temporary warning during v060 boot-up about not running the f/w on a SainSmart unit so would be interesting to know if it shows this on all units.
Mine has the warning as well. There has been some fakes that work as well as the real one and they are all black. It's really not junk as they work well. Some people are really critical of cheap things from China, but these are useful tools and as you said fun to build. I did replace one resister as I had one in the kit that didn't check out very good, so I replaced it with one I had that was much closer to the intended value. That was the only problem I had. Might have been fine but I am a bit of a perfectionist and didn't want to chance it.
Yes I hope the thumbs-down on this vid wasn't Aussie Dave, who certainly isn't shy about calling these things cr*p :) - just kidding Dave if you're watching ;) - but each to his own I guess. I think you did the sensible thing replacing the resistor before soldering. That was the whole point about checking as much as possible before turning on the soldering iron - might seem pedantic/boring but if it doesn't work you'd be kicking yourself if you wreck the PCB trying to un-solder things. Interesting re. the inductor size - there are some videos showing a smaller component so maybe it's pot luck which type you get. I found some cheap battery-to-dc barrel jack connectors (for Arduino) which are wired centre-positive, so have now stuck a 9v PP3 battery on the side - not very pretty but very handy for portable work.
I just bought one fully assembled as at 68 years old i thought it might be challenging to assemble but most of the work it is going to be doing is automotive Injectors alternators etc But thank you for a very informative video
@Paul Watkins thanks Paul. They're fun to build but no shame in getting one ready-made. At least you know what's involved now so maybe for the next project... :) We're the same age so never to old to learn :) Best wishes.
Very nice video. Bending the leads causes the same "stress" whether tweezers are used or not. The only way to minimise work hardening, as it's called, is to bend once. Try it with a paper clip.
+DrTeeth thanks for the feedback. Good point re. work-hardening , but I was referring to the stress at the joint between the wire and the body of the component, not the wire itself. If you bend the wire by hand, it can start bending so close to the body that the body coating breaks away. You're ok if the wires are very thin/flexible relative to the strength of the body material, but some components have thicker/stiffer wires. Using tweezers or pliers as shown at 10m10s avoids the problem.
18:30 I just finished building one of these. I get the screen to boot up fine, but no yellow trace. If i hook the test lead up the l.e.d. flashes, all the buttons and switches appear to work, but no input signal. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Hi +Obsolete Technologies, best bet is to ask in the jyetech forum (www.jyetech.com/forum/index.php). Doesn't sound too serious but hope you get it fixed.
+Mick King that's unlucky. Check the other voltages around that stage to see if it narrows down the problem. The LM1117 should convert 5v to 3.3v, so there should be 5v on the input TP21 and 3.3v on the output TP22. If you're getting more than 5v on TP22, then you must have too high a level on its input... in which case there's something wrong earlier in the circuit. Work your way forwards from J9 and then TP20. If that's ok but TP21 is wrong, then that points the finger to the 75L05 - you may have put the 79L05 in here by mistake (if you did, you're not alone!).
Excellent video for beginners! Methodically and simply explained at a good pace. Good demo at the end but too loud after having my volume up to hear what you were saying.
Phil Tipping Hi Phil. For a couple references, I’d recommend “Which capacitor do I use” off You Tube from Mr. Carlson’s Lab and badcaps.net. I think that Rubycon and Nichicon e-caps are the “good ones” to use these days. Also, be sure to use the ones rated for 105degrees C as these are constructed with the better materials.
At 15:11 it says "short JP3 with solder". I'm guessing you apply solder that covers from contact to contact while the power is being setup and then removed prior to actually powering up the device?
@@xxlabratxx01 You just use a blob of solder to bridge the gap, and this 'shorts' the 2 pads together... but you do *not* have to remove the short later. Just follow the exact instructions in the assembly manual. Step 21 says to bridge/short JP3, then later step 2A.3 says to bridge/short JP4, but only do this if the voltage is correct (JP4 is shown at 17:30 in the video). If the voltage is not correct, there is a fault, so this needs fixing before proceeding.
My kit arrived yesterday from Bangood. Being keen to get started I did it in the evening when I was really too tired, big mistake! Definitely not a kit for beginners, you need a little practice at soldering at least. The instructions as supplied are a bit limited, but just about sufficient. I think they need modifying slightly,the soldering iron needs to have a fine bit (my 3mm Antex doesn't make it easy, but it will do when I assemble my next kit, a T12 soldering station). They need to add a magnifying glass to the tools list. I spent ages hunting down a couple of poor soldering joints, one was on one of the selector switches, and the other on R8. After a lot of button pushing the results seemed way off, so I waited until morning, rechecked and re-flowed a few joints, then found the "Factory Reset" (press + & - for 2 seconds), and everything is now fine. Your video was a great deal of help, even though I have been doing electronics for many years, thanks!
Nice & Detailed, Thanks for posting. Sadly, mine powered up, but It does not seem to work, regarding the input signal. I absolutely have no waveform whatsoever. Have you ever assembled, or had one that seems to work perfectly regarding all the function selections with the slide/push button switches. Yet does not measure any input at all ???
Thanks +scifialiengeek. I've only made the one in the video so haven't had to troubleshoot yet. If you have a meter you could check a few things around the input stages - not sure how comfortable you are with the circuit diagram. If not, ask on the jyetech forum - they all seem pretty helpful - if you browse through it there might even be a solution posted. Good luck.
If anyone else has this problem, I found that I swapped the + and - regulators when I installed them. Did not see that they were apposing voltage regulators. Luckily it did not damage anything, and now the sweet little O-Scope works great!
Well this is exactly the point I made at approx 6:41, but thanks for sharing as it shows just how easy it is to miss something unless you check & double-check *before* soldering. As you say, at least you were lucky there was no further damage, but it could easily have been worse.
@BoostHit sorry I don't know what requirements you need for this type of work. The scope specs show its max voltage and frequency range etc. so if your diagnostic work doesn't need anything outside these limits, it should be ok.
@Will Kmep thanks for the feedback Will. Not sure what possibilities there are nowadays - I believe a few people have modified the firmware so just search for dso138 hacks. Also check out the jyetech.com website for their more recent developments on this.
Superb video. I spent some years teaching electronics, as well as being an inveterate constructor myself. All the key stuff is covered. Could have been boring, but very well presented and explained.
Your synthesiser demo is better than a lot of modern "music".
Thanks for the kind words +Stephen Cook. If it helped just one person to get this kit working, it was worth it. I know too well (from when I started a long time ago!) the disappointment & frustration when it all goes pear-shaped :)
The first kit I made was in 1969, a Sinclair Micromatic 'matchbox' radio. I never did get that to work and support was non-existent. Really looking forward to building this 'scope.
+spacial2 - you had the posh one :) I had the mark 1 version - the Micro 6, and if memory serves correctly, I was listening to this on my paper-round 50 years ago when they launched Radio 1 with Flowers In The Rain! (there are anniversary programs early tomorrow morning - 30th Sept). Also remember using the radio at school - it was small enough to fit in my pocket with the earpiece lead running up my sleeve, so if you rested your head against your hand, nobody knew you were tuning in! Hope you have better luck with the scope :)
Where's the video with your "on the run" cover? :)
Damn !
The outro sound effected sign test is unbelievable !
Amazing !
It's blowed my mind !
@Gábor M. thanks for the feedback. More info & videos about the synth are at www.philizound.co.uk/freebies/modular-synth/modular-synth.html
I just ordered one of these scopes, so I really appreciate the effort you put into this video. Thanks!
@Bright Idea no worries, hope it all works out ok. To reword an old saying: test twice, solder once :)
This is a very well done video and I enjoyed it enough to watch it twice! I am on step 16 of 22 so most of my parts are in. The two page concise build instruction manual included in the kit is, IMHO, a model of its kind. The pictures are crisp and match the parts, the parts are labeled (and counted) correctly. The parts match the instructions exactly, the circuit board is labeled very clearly and accurately. I have put together much more expensive kits that were not near the overall quality of this kit. The instructions were obviously prepared by (1) someone with a talent for writing instructions, (not a common skill BTW), (2) someone that had assembled the kit his or herself, and (3) someone that wanted the person building the kit to actually build it. The few extra tips and notes are spot on. Kudos to JYE-Tech for doing such an impressive job regardless of the fact it was for a $25 scope. And your video is in the same spirit. Thanks for posting this and good job! :-)
Cheers +John Cantlin and thanks for the input. Agree with kudos to jye-tech; there's even support on their forum if it doesn't work. Hope yours turns out ok when finished.
Extremely well done tutorial. I received this kit as a Christmas gift and following your guidance assembled it over a few evenings. A bit to my surprise and delight, it works perfectly. Thank you!
@Edward Y thanks for stopping by Edward and glad it all worked ok; it's a satisfying feeling :)
I watched several videos about assembling and using this DIY oscilloscope, since I've neither built nor used one before. This was by far my favorite. Plenty of useful and practical tips at a level that is easy to understand without being at all condescending. Excellent!! Thanks for taking the time to put this video together; I found it very helpful.
@Bonnie Baxter thanks for the kind words Bonnie. If you're thinking of building one, there are other versions available - there used to be the DSO-150 but can't seem to find it on jyetech's site so even that one may have been superseded. It was a bit more expensive so search around for the best deal, but the case is included and it has some nice enhancements such as the rotary wheel instead of the +/- buttons. I think you may also have to solder the surface-mount resistors yourself so double-check this if you're not confident about soldering these - the model has been out for a while so they may have 2 versions of the kit just like the DSO-138. Good luck and thanks again for stopping by.
old school is cool.. one of the best instructional videos I have seen in a long time on TH-cam. A lot of photos and work has gone into this... Thanks
Thanks for the support Jan :)
I've seen many videos about this scope but your video is by far the most helpful. Thank you very much.
@SuperArmus that's kind of you to say; thank's for stopping by. Season's greetings :)
You are a great instructor, Phil. Glad that you've shared this weekend project to guide us on a similar journey one day soon. Your presentation is so clear and very easy to follow. Thnaks again, Phil!
+SeekersBlue917 _ thanks for the kind words. Good luck with your projects.
I’m a complete novice still awaiting mine to come through the post. Thank you, I will return to this video again when I’m building it and will let you know how I get on.
@Mark Harris good luck Mark... just remember a few people have had components with incorrect values, so always "check twice, solder once" :) Thanks for stopping by.
Thank you for taking the time to make this excellent video and sharing your knowledge. I am a new General license ham operator and have become fascinated by this whole new world of electrical wizardry. It is instructors like you who keep me motivated to learn more.
73, KM4 VGO
+T Faber no problem - glad you found it useful. Well my first hobby decades ago was electronics & radio - had a few years on the air as G3YSI, but then life & other interests took over! Am now retired so am enjoying revisiting my youth... and all the tech advances since those valve days :) Thanks for the feedback, and 73's to you too.
Hi Phil...a comment from your old mate! Just wanted to say that I am most impressed with the professionalism of this video. Watching it took me back to the days in Mirfield when you and I were just starting out in electronics. VCAs, VCOs, ring modulators, Switched-On Bach, CQ20, 73s and so on. All the best, my friend...John
@John P Coates good to hear from you John. Thanks for the kind words - surprised you just found this as it's been up a few years - you'll be moving onto the sequetron and dp24 tutorials next! Thought the scope was a tiny niche project but have had lots of interest so good to know enthusiasts are still out there :) Did you recognise those old resistors - some may even be relics from Mac of Morley in Leeds or Padgett's Radio in Liversedge... all long gone I presume, but happy memories. All the best to you as well, and keep in touch.
I loved this video. I've been on the fence about this kit for some time, not sure if it would actually be useful to a beginner electronics enthusiast like myself. But I couldn't justify the cost of a "real" oscilloscope because, again, I'm just a beginner and don't have the experience necessary to properly appreciate and make the most of such high-end tools. So as you said, this kit might be useful for someone at my level as a learning tool. I've decided to order it and give it a try. Your pro-tip about alternating pins when soldering them to avoid heat buildup is very appreciated too. Thank you so much for this video!
Thanks for the feedback +Stormycat Blues. Good luck with the build when it arrives. Just take it slow and methodical and it should work first time.
I just purchased one of these and it arrived two days ago. I am impressed with the kit. All the parts are there and all pass the initial testing. I also ordered the clear case but it has not arrived [yet]. After reading some of the other viewers comments I am now concerned if it will ever arrive. I do hope it does arrive as it makes for a very nice installation. Thank you for this video. I really appreciate your work to produce and upload it.Regards, K7RMJ
Thanks for the feedback +cuban9splat. If you ordered the case on ebay, they'll have given you a 'latest delivery' date, so once that passes you should be able to claim a refund. May need to wait several weeks though if it came from China. Mine was from ebay user wishyou-happy. Hope you get it sorted. 73's, Phil (ex-G3YSI)
I ordered it through Amazon and checked on it again last night. It is being shipped from a warehouse in Canada and that explains the delay. Shipments from Canada usually take 10 days longer than normal. So, I expect to receive it in another week or so. The scope went together quite nicely, in large part due to some of the hints given in your video. Thank you again for the very well done video. 73, Frank K7RMJ
This is a great review and tutorial. You make a good point that this should not be dismissed as junk. Someone put a lot of work into this design so that it can be in my hands for about $25 shipped. 20 years ago the PCB alone would be $20. It can certainly be a very useful tool for certain applications. Thanks for your efforts in putting this tutorial together.
Thanks for the feedback +aviatorbja. Apologies for delay in replying but TH-cam messages don't seem to flag up in my email so I only see them if I go and look! You're quite right, I find it disrespectful when people slag these things off just because it doesn't meet their requirements.
thank you for taking the time (your time) to be thorough, patient and methodical in this process. I have watched this several times and YES IT IS BORING but i know i need it to remember the basics and fundamentals before starting my installation. thanks again.
Thanks +Alpha Deicide, yes it's a good test - if you have the patience to watch the video, then there's a good chance you have enough patience to build the kit without making mistakes :) Good luck.
Excellent video...you inspired me to order one and give it a shot. I also liked how you went into detail about testing each component before soldering to prevent issues or errors. Thank you for putting this out
Thanks for the support +cepwin - good luck with the build.
Great video Phil mate, many thanks, clear precise and to the point as well as entertaining. After 60 years in Electronics I still enjoyed this build... do we never grow up?
Thanks +Fred Jones. I'm also revisiting my childhood hobbies - lots of exciting things around now like micro-controllers and sensors etc... and so much cheaper too :)
Great and detailed rundown of the building process.
I got this kit recently, and I found the provided instructions to be exceptionally good for this kind of kit; extensive and easy to follow, but it's always great to know the potential pitfalls during the build so thanks for this video.
My 104 caps also read ~0.067uF instead (despite being labeled 104), but the kit works fine with them, so I'm guessing their value is not critical.
Thanks +Elias Zacarias. Yes, I think you get away with it as none of the 11 x 0.1uF capacitors are used for critical timing - the majority are for decoupling power lines. Glad the build was successful.
Loved seeing those waveforms at the end.
@Calthecool Yes it's a handy tool as long a you know its limitations - not a toy at all! Thanks for stopping by :)
I built the SMD soldering version my self today and it works fine. Thank you for your video and your informations. Reading the manual is strongly recommended.
@transition65 that's brilliant - hats off to you :) I've only tried a few smd components on a breadboard but not on a full project, so thanks for showing it's do-able.
Excellent video. I just finished putting together the board and was puzzling about how the hell all those case pars went together. Thanks to your video I am no longer puzzled.
@Fred Townroe caused me some head-scratching too :) Impressive how the parts are cut so accurately though... started me wanting a laser CNC machine! Thanks for stopping by Fred.
FANTASTIC! I need to acquire a couple of these kits one door my self and one for my son! Just to get us started in this crazy,fun,intriguing hobby! Good video!!! 👍
+Austin&Vicky Moore thanks for the feedback. Make sure you get the kits with the surface mount components already mounted (as in this video) or they may be too fiddly to solder... but your choice :) Also check out the newer kits on the jye website - there's another one similar to this, but with a rotary dial for changing the settings. This might be easier to use than pressing + and - buttons. Either way, have fun with them and good luck with the build(s) - just be patient and check & double-check everything to guarantee success first time :)
Exceptionally clearly presented! We need teachers like you.
@ronstudd3788 thank you Ron, much appreciated.
This video was therapeutical after a full day at faculty
Please do more walk-throughs :)
Thanks for support +Radu Buda
Thank you so much for this informative video, it's exactly what I needed to see before building my one. My case has arrived but the board is still in the mail and I'm really looking forward to building it!
But I would have just put it together and then probably run into all the problems you highlighted so you have possibly saved me the cost of a second board!
Thanks again :)
Thanks Elliot. Good luck with the build.
A really fine video! Thank you for going into such detail - you make it all so clear. Even I now believe I could make one of these, and it looks quite adequate for checking amplifiers and so on.
@Pyotr Leflegin thanks for the nice feedback Pyotr. Just noticed the upload was nearly 3 years ago, so there may be more choices available now.
Excellent tutorial. And a welcome relief from the overuse of the words "um" and "uh" so prevalent in lesser videos. I've built many kits and built many projects straight from schematics and never thought to measure and test all the components. But it's a very good idea and will save a lot of guesswork later if troubleshooting is needed.
By the way, using an ohm meter to check LEDs is a terrific idea. Saves one from the trouble of rigging up a battery, test leads and resistor to check them.
Thanks for the feedback +David Winn - makes it worth all the effort of recording & editing - hope to do more soon, but it all takes time :)
tip: you can also squeeze with tweezers/pilers on the root of the component (before the component and after the location of soldering) to transfer the heat away from the component
Good tip +Lasse U, thanks for comment.
Thank you. Watched the video before I started construction of the 'scope, did all the component checks and taped them to a sheet of paper with the measured values noted.
I then had it going (with frequent pauses) as I built the 'scope, which was a multi-hour process over several days. The firmware ends in 60, so it's effectively current (61 is available but just adds support for another LCD display controller). Only the case needs to be completed and I'll get to that tomorrow.
JYETech offers a DC-DC converter (USB or 3.8 volt lithium cell in for 9 volts out). I'll be adding that, a 2650 mah lithium cell, a USB charge/protection board (TP4056) for the lithium cell and an extension to the case to contain those parts. My intended use is checking output waveforms of DC-AC inverters (12 volts DC to 120 volts AC). Using a 10x scope probe effectively increases the 50v peak-to-peak rating of the DSO138 to 500v p-to-p so a plastic-cased 'scope running on a battery is the ideal tool for doing that checking - nothing grounded, nothing in a metal case. Depending on the efficiency of the DC-DC converter, the 2650 mah cell could provide 6 hours of continuous operation.
Sounds a great idea +notyoung so many thanks for sharing. One thing to watch maybe... there are pads on the PCB around the bolt holes, so if you use metal bolts and nuts to hold it in place, they'll be at ground potential. There were some nice rounded stud nuts with my case which make attractive 'feet', but you need to be careful what you stand it on!
Why would anyone give this video a thumb down? Very well done and so much valuable information. Thanks for taking the trouble to make this.
@rockett crawford Good question :) I think some do it out of spite or are overly picky - TH-cam should have a 'reason' field to fill in, then we can maybe address the problem... but no worries, I just ignore it :)
Thank *you* for taking the time to comment - much appreciated, and glad the video helped. There are more recent kits from jyetech.com which have improvements over this one, such as a rotary wheel for changing settings. Good luck with your build(s), whatever you decide to make.
Hobbyking have these on clearance at the moment for £2.50, so despite not really knowing what an oscilloscope does or what I might use it for, I have bought myself one as soldering practice. Thank you for this excellent tutorial
@Tsnafu wow, that's an amazing price :) - almost worth getting a couple just for spares... or even a spare screen for another project! Thanks for the feedback and good luck with the build.
I agree with S. Cook...a superb presentation presenting lots of hard-earned practical experience...I can only imagine your hands-on experience of a lifetime as not unlike my own...I bought one of these for my son for monitoring, of all things synth audio...he built it ( I did also instruct him to verify R values, but not to perform some of the other component level test you did...)...his solder work was acceptable, and on first power-up, although it showed 3.3V in the initial tests, it did not work beyond that...I should have had him follow this excellent presentation...I guess I'll give it a closer look now and try to find and sort the problem. When I do, I'll update these comments with findings to help the next builder.
I agree also with your statement that when operated within its capabilities, and when not expecting it to do magic beyond that, it seems like quite a useful little tool to add to a testbench...it doesn't take up a lot of room, and being able to see voltage with respect to time characteristics is invaluable...now, I just need to get it working...Thanks for posting, and Cheers from Connecticut!
+Ronplucksstrings thanks for the kind words Ron. Sorry to hear it didn't work first time; hope your son was not too disappointed. Fault-finding is good experience though... just hope nothing serious has been damaged. There are a few 'typical' faults, such as mixing up the 7805 and 7905 parts or forgetting to short out all the links, although the former is ok if you've measured +3.3v. Just keep working your way through the trouble-shooting section and the circuit diagram and hopefully you'll crack it. The jretech forum may also be able to help if you get stuck. Good luck, and season's greetings to you both.
Phil;
I got it working! ...after a good visual inspection (all was as expected with no silly errors), but still touching up some iffy looking solder joints (with lead solder, yippee...lead-free solder sucks!), then connected a fresh 9V battery and followed the instructions, which included soldering in a jumper after the initial power supply checks [A. ...short JP4 with solder permanently.] ...it did indeed come alive as expected. Its amazing what a little RTFM will do... We then used it to monitor some KORG minilogue outputs...perfectly and much nicer than the integrated micro (30X15mm) display! I have ordered a case for its protection.
I might get another one of these toys for myself...they are just too cute, and well suited for audio work...back in my school days, we would have given a small body part for something like this... Cheers
@@ronplucksstrings7112 that's excellent news Ron... and just in time for Christmas :) Thanks for sharing the info. If you're considering another one, the DSO-150 is an improved model www.jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/e150.php It's a bit more expensive so search around for the best deal, but the case is included and it has some nice enhancements such as the rotary wheel instead of the +/- buttons. I think you *may* also have to solder the surface-mount resistors yourself so double-check this if you're not confident about soldering these - the model has been out for a while so they may have 2 versions of the kit just like the DSO-138. All the best.
Thank you for this video, after watching it over 8 times, and during my build, I was able to complete this project and have it boot up on first go.
Thanks +alhenriq, glad it was a success.
Thank you for the video, I really like how you presented it with the pictures and the calm narration.
Thanks +whuzzzup, yes the video prep & editing does take a fair bit of time but glad to know it's worth the effort :) All the best.
I ordered this kit a few days before I discovered your video, so found it very interesting. Thank you for your detailed video I will certainly use some of your tips.
Thanks +Gary Henley. Good luck with the build.
what an excellent video, I hopped on to learn HOW to use my new oscilloscope but learned so much more - ways to measure components, how to read capacitor values. Oddly enough my 'kit' came pre-assembled although I did not order it as such. The fiddly part was getting the case together without instructions but I like puzzles so it was an enjoyable challenge. THEN (as I did not RTM) I realized I needed to take the case apart to calibrate my probes. My new mantra is RTM RTM RTM :) Thank you for putting this guide together sir.
@Carole Wise no problem Carole, glad you found it useful. Thanks for sharing your story :)
that synth is hypnotic man
Thanks +Jet Addict, more info & videos about it here www.philizound.co.uk/freebies/modular-synth/modular-synth.html
Phil Tipping no problem man
This is such a good video. The content and presentation are just excellent. Thank you Phil, this is just what I need. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos.
@Mark McCluney thank you Mark, glad you liked it. I've not made any more construction videos as detailed as this, although the latest PlasMa project shows what happens when you get a bit carried away ;) th-cam.com/video/qgo8tZTJ1vo/w-d-xo.html
Great video, I worked as an Electronics technician for years amd am gettign back into it with SBCs so I will be buying one of these.
@aR Bemo thanks for stopping by. Good luck with the build.
I have a couple of LCR meters that are quite capable of measuring very small capacitances and inductances because I need them for building crystal radios and need to verify coils and caps for proper tuning. Very handy meters and relatively cheap as well.
@lochinvar00465 good idea; thanks for sharing.
Phil, I am late to the dance here, but wanted to compliment you on your video. It was evenly paced and deliberate. Also, your thoughtful sentiments at the beginning struck the right note. This is NOT a Tek 465 or 2465 or a Rigol, but it is a decent and useful little tool that could come in handy for those on a budget.
+War Planner many thanks for the feedback.
A really excellent job with this video and the synth at the end was an added treat. Well done.
Cheers
@Surf Detector thanks for stopping by; glad you liked it :)
Most excellent instruction video. Highly informative an relevant to this product. Can't wait to get into my build of the DSO138. Thanks very much!
+Tim Stokes thanks for the feedback Tim, good luck with the build.
superb tutorial Phil ....you're a natural tutor. thank you for all the hard work and time you put into this to help others..... its much appreciated
+John Cooper thanks for the support John, glad it was useful.
Brilliant! Such detail and so much practical help. And I love the synthesizer test at the end.
THANK YOU
@Matthew Grimm thanks Matthew, glad you liked it.
Thank you! The problem in the firmware was found - it's jumper JP2 bad soldering, it was solved by flashing the latest firmware ... 61, but the problem did not disappear, I bought DSO138 already ready (assembled). I think that I touched the board with my hand when the device was turned on. Thank you for your attention!
@m m Glad you fixed the flashing problem, but sorry to hear the original problem is still there. When you say the beam has disappeared, are the other parts of the display working? If they are, it suggests the main computer chip is all ok, and that the problem is with one of the other components. As far as I know, the other components are fairly robust so are unlikely to be damaged by static when you touched the board... unless you think you may have shorted something. If JP2 was badly soldered, it might be worth checking all the other joints with a magnifying glass. If you bought it ready assembled, why not just complain to the seller and see if you can get a refund?
@@philtipping Maybe you will be interested in solving my problem.
This is solved by switching the CPL switch to the GND position
SEN1 to position 1V/ SEN2 to position x1/left triangle on the display to select
and press and hold SW4 for a few seconds, the beam appears
@@mm-lw3lo Thank you for the follow-up. It seems a strange solution and I don't understand why it worked, but glad you got it fixed :) Thanks for sharing.
Thanks god for this instructional video! I ordered the kit by accident and the included instructions aren't sufficient. Sitting down to enjoy this on a new year's day afternoon :)
+Gary McKinnon thanks for the feedback Gary... a nice unexpected present to tinker with :) Hope the build was successful. Happy New Year to you.
Wow! Very cool. Your insights and instructions make a world of difference, thanks for the great work!
@Mark Ash thanks for the feedback Mark.
Excellent video, looking into getting one my self. I'm a total novice so I've learned a lot from this.
Thanks +andy pandy. Well as long you take it slow and careful, you should be ok... although if you're a novice to soldering, would recommend trying something simpler first. There are plenty of cheaper kits which use PCBs. Here are a few examples which are between 1 & 2 GBP - you may just need patience for delivery ;)
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301566828290.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271839349072.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361338713791.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252157924936.
Can't vouch for these myself, but even if they're not useful to you, they should be good practice... and won't break the bank if you mess up. Good luck.
I wouldn't say I'm a novice with soldering, but I am a novice when it comes to electrical components. So these little PCBs are perfect for learning the basics of how a circuit works. Thank you!!
Earned a sub. Great narration and very easy to follow. I just threw one of these kits together last night and it was a good experience. Had no real problems and so far my only complaint with it is the included power adapter has much too short of a cable on it. But still, I was really shocked by how clear and well illustrated the instructions were.
I've tried a few other cheap kits and things like that from China and it's almost always what you'd expect; crap. Poorly assembled, poorly tested, etc. This however did not show any of those signs. The PCB had very clear and precise markings, the instructions did not contain any broken english, the SMD components were all properly soldered, and best of all the included trouble shooting guide and flow charts are also insanely useful and easy to follow. All of the components were provided and all of them also had reasonable measurements.
Actually, my other complaint apart from the included power adapter are how none of the pin headers have anchor pins to force them to properly align with the PCB. Soldering those was a bit of a nightmare for me. The bigger ones were fine but the smaller ones kept twisting on me.
In any case, super good kit. For basic use it's fantastic and it's a fun building experience.
Thanks +spartan456 - glad yours was a good experience so thanks for sharing. I too found the header pins tricky to align, so the trick with soldering just one pin first as shown was very useful. The other method mentioned was to leave all the headers till the end and plug the 2 boards together *before* soldering... but I'm not entirely convinced as you could end up with both sets being misaligned with their PCBs so although they would fit perfectly with each other, you would be unable to swap boards if ever you needed to in future. I think my preference would be to just have the patience to align them with the PCB in the first place :)
Interesting that yours included a PSU - mine didn't so had to hunt around for something suitable. Have also stuck a 9v battery to the side of the case with a short power cable (standard 9v arduino connector) for portable use - works a treat.
Phil Tipping
I just finished building a nixie tube clock that had similar arrangements of headers, and on that one the instructions recommended plugging the males into the females and then aligning them, and then sticking the boards down to solder the headers.
It actually worked out VERY well since they were all aligned perfectly, and they are more than capable of being disconnected. Definitely a lot easier for me than trying to line them up by hand. I tried tacking a single pin but after reheating it several times and still being not perfect, I didn't want to chance heating it any more.
Ok +spartan456, thanks for the confirmation - I'll certainly check this method out next time.
Excellent video, I wanted to find out a little about this kit and your video provided all I needed to know. Hats off you also provided a great beginner tuto in using a multimeter and soldering. A really great job.
Thanks +Peadar Feckfidgion glad it helped. Keep in touch if you decide to go for one.
Very excellent presentation! The outro synth test was AMAZING!
@Steve Miller thanks Steve - more info & videos about the synth are here www.philizound.co.uk/freebies/modular-synth/modular-synth.html
well sir,this is one of the most instructive videos on yt,thanks for the patience to do this,I'll buy this kit and try for myself
Thanks for the feedback +sova713. Best of luck with the build.
Yes the old 3 stripe carbon resistors........Remember the body/tip/spot types? Very good video sir. What I did with the BNC connector was to warm it and the PCB up with a heat gun. Not too hot, just enough to help the soldering iron out a bit. So far the DSO-138 has proved to be a good (very) basic instrument accurate enough for most hobby applications.
@Chris Norton thanks Chris. Yes I remember those resistors... and the waxy capacitors! Come a long way since then :) Good tip with the BNC. Have only just bought a heat gun - wish I'd done this years ago... the bedroom hair dryer isn't quite the same :)
UPDATE: I spent a couple of enjoyable afternoons assembling my kit. (bought from Banggood, and it appears to be genuine.) The most useful thing I did in preparation for the build was watch your video! (this is the first time I have ever tried anything like this.) Two sheets of paper; assembly and operating instructions did not seem to be enough... in fact they covered everything, very clearly, and in GOOD English! The only hiccup was the point where assembly is complete, and you test various voltages before you solder JP3 and plug in the display panel. You are told what points to test with the positive multimeter probe, but you are not told where to connect the negative probe. I assumed (wrongly) that I should connect it to the ground power feed... this gave incorrect readings. Luckily I experimented (blundered about), and found that using the DGND pin gave the right answers. BINGO! Twenty four hours later and my trace went wild with nothing connected to it :o( More blundering about and I found my lousy soldering had made a perfect "dry-joint". Easily fixed, and it has worked fine since.
The case is slightly different to yours, and it has space for the Power Inductor without modification.
Would I recommend it? ABSOLUTELY!! If you are dabbling with Arduinos, Raspberry Pi's, hobby robotics, RC etc. This may be of use. It is what it is; it only cost a few bucks... it cannot compete with a thousand dollar machine. (If you need dual traces, buy two of these, you will still be hundreds of bucks ahead.) Have fun; I did. :o)
ORIGINAL: Thanks Phil! I have just received my kit, and in preparation I thought I would check out TH-cam. So glad I did; your video covered everything I had concerns about. Well produced, clearly described, and perfectly paced. Right on the money... liked and subscribed.
Thanks John, glad it helped. Hope the build goes ok - it's a good exercise in patience & concentration :) Let us know how it works out.
I learned the hard way to always check each component before you solder it in place. Had a diode that was marked backwards resulting in blown fuses upon power up. Fortunately only the fuses took damage.
@lochinvar00465 wow, not come across one of those, but well done for being cautious - never trust anything :) Thanks for stopping by.
Oh, this must be the mother of all synths!
Very nice video!
Many thanks +Animarkzero - my first encounters with that synth are at www.philizound.co.uk/freebies/modular-synth/modular-synth.html with a hint of what was to come at th-cam.com/video/kZH_DTGYOcM/w-d-xo.html
Hi Phill I must say very clear and very understandable, thank you for the video, i wanted a oscilloscope to refresh my mind and get back into projects thank you you really have got me back into it .
Thanks +Mentes Mehmet. I'm a bit the same - left electronics behind years ago and now reviving the hobby - if you're into computing, there's a fascinating world of micro-controller projects out there :)
Hi Phill and thanks I will have a look I will let you know how I get on :)
Beautiful dotcom! Great vid, I bought this module for calibration of my diy Eurorack modules - Hopefully it's up to the task, though for the price, I'm happy just for the soldering practice. Thank you for making the effort to make this video.
Thanks +Lachlan Bowden. Have fun making music :)
Do not yet have the kit - but you presentation is very valuable. Thanks !
Thanks for the feedback +Otis Brown
I avoided all the headache and aggravation, and ordered my DSO138 completely assembled. It only cost a few bucks more (Amazon.com) than the kit form. Only thing I needed to solder on mine was a jumper loop on J2 large enough to accomodate an alligator clip, so I could use the board's test signal to fine tune C4 and C6 trimmers for best wave shape.
Thanks for the info +dshmechanic. Yes DIY is not for everyone so it's good to know the fully-assembled version isn't too expensive.
Sure thing Phil. I just thought I'd pass the info along, just in case some of your viewers decided not to bother after watching. The DSO138 is really a surprisingly decent performing little workhorse considering its throw away price. I use both of mine for the very first stages of diagnosis, where working conditions can be best described as 'trench like' and the precision of a machine like my Tektronix is grievous overkill. My expensive machine is forever indebted to them too for doing all the grunt work, LOL. PS...absolutely LOVE the analog sound! There's just no substitute for it. I have an old Crumar analog with the original gig bag I picked up in non-working condition for 25 bucks at a yard sale many many moons ago. All it needed was a 4 dollar IC that I actually had on hand at the time. I didn't even have to heat up the iron because this Crumar used socket mount IC's....took me back to the good old pull and swap vacuum tube days hahaha.
It's a great example though so thanks for sharing - it just shows how misguided those people are who write them off as cr*p under the false assumption that all scopes should be 10MHz plus! I would have loved one of these as a youngster to complement my coveted multi-meter, although maybe I would never have been spurred on to build a scope from Practical Electronics - that was my first valve project :) Nice find with the Crumar and well done for fixing it. A friend uncovered one when they moved house, but it was in a very poor state; mould & rust everywhere with chips missing - sacrilege. All the best.
Bloody ell! And what a synthesizer you made it for! Thats a Beast!
+Alledged Offender yes the scope looks a bit out of place :) there's more info & videos about it here www.philizound.co.uk/freebies/modular-synth/modular-synth.html
Fantastic video. Tonnes of useful detail and the demo at the end was excellent!
Thanks Rob.
I just bought one of these. Your instructions will surely come in handy. Thanks a lot !!!
Thanks for the feedback +Christer Bergström, good luck with the build.
After watching several videos on this scope, I decided to bite the bullet and buy one.I had been using one I built using an Arduino but the tiny screen was very hard to read with my ancient eyes. So I wanted one with a case included, and went with the DSO 150. I never could get it to work properly so I broke down and purchased one of these, however after screwing up the 150 I found one built an purchased it ready to go out of the box. I think the cost was 8 bucks more, well worth it in my case. After getting the new one, I ordered the plastic case because I use it traveling and wanted the protection. I am on the third one of the cases, first one came with no hardware. Second one came in pieces but most of the hardware however the button extensions were broken. Still waiting for the third but I have it working now using a screw driver to move the switches missing the extensions. Then it dawned on me, after reading one of my own complaints what was wrong with the 150, it was the button! I replaced it with a new rotary encoder and now it too works good, Oh and I had to replace one of the variable cap's as it would not calibrate. So now I have three little scopes, the smallest is in an Altoids can, and the largest is this one, which I think I like the most as it is easiest to set up for the testing of circuits.
+Jerry Ericsson interesting story Jerry, thanks for sharing.
Wow. You have actually provided a fairly complete, basic electronic component testing overview, here. You should remix and upload this video with a title geared toward just that. It could help many people in general component testing. Great stuff!
Thanks for the encouragement +LEVEL6, good idea. Meanwhile, please share if you know anyone it could help.
Very good video, I built one it works fine. The description of the number coding of the small capacitors was quite informative. I ordered the plastic case from aliexpress but it never came. The company JYE put together a great kit and instructions, the circuit board is very well marked and good quality. The small capacitor values varied on mine just like this video and could be a problem when using the on screen tables. In the end the triggering and wave forms are good but the voltage reading are a bit off and vary when you change sweep speed. I used a ac-dc buck converter to power it with no noise problems.
Thanks +Joseph Nicholas, good point re. non-exact values - I'll check the voltage readings on mine. Have ordered stuff from aliexpress before and had no problem so hope you get it sorted.
Hi
Excellent stuff, all of it. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
+Steve Phillips cheers Steve, thanks for the feedback.
A really great guide to the build ...loved the synth mucking about at the end. Well done and thanks :) :)
Cheers +Pat Blenkinsopp and thanks for the feedback. Can't beat some real knob twiddling :)
Thanks! Mine will be delivered tomorrow and this will help me with building it.
@Diane Brzeski Thanks for stopping by. Good luck with the build. Check & double-check everything *before* soldering :) Let us know how it goes.
Thank you. This is a thorough run down for this project.
Thanks for feedback +adsicks. Happy New Year to you :)
Excellent. That ending makes me want to watch Logan's Run.
+Dead Frt West haha yes I see what you mean :) Thanks for the feedback.
it makes me want to watch Phantasm
On VOM - the test voltages are reversed. Analog Volt Meter - when measuring resistance.
Protecting the 9 Volt supply (From over-voltage.) Consider using a 9 volt Zener diode for protection.
Thanks +Otis Brown. Yes the different polarities between analog and digital test meters is mentioned, but always best to check - if you don't have a 2nd meter to check it, connect an LED to see which way round lights up. Re. zener protection - the device already has a power regulator so it can handle up to 12volts so there's no need to protect it at 9v. If you do use a zener for protection, you'll need more than just the zener diode otherwise it will burn out when the voltage exceeds its value. If you put a resistor in series to limit the current, this will also be in series with the power supply to the device, so you'll need to allow for power dissipated in the resistor, and also the voltage drop across it... it's not quite as simple as putting a simple zener across the supply, unless you can get one which acts like a crowbar and shorts out when the voltage is too high.
That was a bad ass ending. I bought one of these today to check clipping of my car stereo. Your video will be a great help.
Thanks +Nomad Chad and good luck with the build. Season's greetings :)
I built one myself and I understand the fake ones have a black colored board, so it looks like the real deal to me. I really had no trouble with the build and am happy with the unit. The case was a bit tricky and not well thought out by the developer, but does secure it and protect the electronics. Over all a nice fun kit to build, I would do it again.
Thanks for sharing C MJ. Yes I wasn't sure as the forum also mentions a product ID on genuine PCBs. Mine doesn't have one but there was nothing else to suggest it was fake - all instructions were supplied and very good quality, all components were present and the f/w upgrade worked. There is a temporary warning during v060 boot-up about not running the f/w on a SainSmart unit so would be interesting to know if it shows this on all units.
Mine has the warning as well. There has been some fakes that work as well as the real one and they are all black. It's really not junk as they work well. Some people are really critical of cheap things from China, but these are useful tools and as you said fun to build. I did replace one resister as I had one in the kit that didn't check out very good, so I replaced it with one I had that was much closer to the intended value. That was the only problem I had. Might have been fine but I am a bit of a perfectionist and didn't want to chance it.
Yes I hope the thumbs-down on this vid wasn't Aussie Dave, who certainly isn't shy about calling these things cr*p :) - just kidding Dave if you're watching ;) - but each to his own I guess. I think you did the sensible thing replacing the resistor before soldering. That was the whole point about checking as much as possible before turning on the soldering iron - might seem pedantic/boring but if it doesn't work you'd be kicking yourself if you wreck the PCB trying to un-solder things. Interesting re. the inductor size - there are some videos showing a smaller component so maybe it's pot luck which type you get. I found some cheap battery-to-dc barrel jack connectors (for Arduino) which are wired centre-positive, so have now stuck a 9v PP3 battery on the side - not very pretty but very handy for portable work.
I just bought one fully assembled as at 68 years old i thought it might be challenging to assemble but most of the work it is going to be doing is automotive Injectors alternators etc But thank you for a very informative video
@Paul Watkins thanks Paul. They're fun to build but no shame in getting one ready-made. At least you know what's involved now so maybe for the next project... :) We're the same age so never to old to learn :) Best wishes.
good after noon Mr tipping , Hey thk for the web site , and the patience
This kit was the first thing I ever soldered. :3 Worked first time!
@Scritch well done, you must be a natural :) Thanks for stopping by.
Good stuff, love all the little tips on all the components, especially since I'm new to little circuitry.
@dj berg thanks for the feedback. Good luck with your projects for 2019.
got quite the giggle out of your "resistance is futile" bit :)
Thanks Kirk - blink and you'll miss it :)
Kirk Nelson
Yeah, I agree. Subtle British humour.
Very nice video. Bending the leads causes the same "stress" whether tweezers are used or not. The only way to minimise work hardening, as it's called, is to bend once. Try it with a paper clip.
+DrTeeth thanks for the feedback. Good point re. work-hardening , but I was referring to the stress at the joint between the wire and the body of the component, not the wire itself. If you bend the wire by hand, it can start bending so close to the body that the body coating breaks away. You're ok if the wires are very thin/flexible relative to the strength of the body material, but some components have thicker/stiffer wires. Using tweezers or pliers as shown at 10m10s avoids the problem.
Hi Phil, I get what you mean now. Good idea. Cheers, DrT
No worries DrT, my wording was not very clear so thanks for pointing it out.
18:30 I just finished building one of these. I get the screen to boot up fine, but no yellow trace. If i hook the test lead up the l.e.d. flashes, all the buttons and switches appear to work, but no input signal. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Hi +Obsolete Technologies, best bet is to ask in the jyetech forum (www.jyetech.com/forum/index.php). Doesn't sound too serious but hope you get it fixed.
Great detailed build walk-through. Thanks a lot!
@goku thanks for stopping by; glad you liked it.
Thank you very much! I've just receive one in my birthday and this video is very usefull. Thanks again,
Good luck +Jose Fonseca, hope it all works first time.
Yes, it worked, thank you. Is there a way to send you a picture?
Great news +Jose Fonseca. Yes, send picture to my email on website www.philizound.co.uk (at bottom of page) - happy birthday by the way :)
great video. I got mine put together, mostly...9.45 volts on JP22. I have no clue what to do next; other than read thru the forum.
+Mick King that's unlucky. Check the other voltages around that stage to see if it narrows down the problem. The LM1117 should convert 5v to 3.3v, so there should be 5v on the input TP21 and 3.3v on the output TP22. If you're getting more than 5v on TP22, then you must have too high a level on its input... in which case there's something wrong earlier in the circuit. Work your way forwards from J9 and then TP20. If that's ok but TP21 is wrong, then that points the finger to the 75L05 - you may have put the 79L05 in here by mistake (if you did, you're not alone!).
Phil Tipping thanks for the reply. I resoldered the LM1117, and when I hooked up power, I reversed polarity. oops. Correct that, and now it works.
thanks i have one but i have not finish it .i will rewatch your video to finish it
Thanks +stephen gray. Good luck with the build.
Excellent video for beginners! Methodically and simply explained at a good pace.
Good demo at the end but too loud after having my volume up to hear what you were saying.
+David Howard oops, sorry about the volume! ...but thanks for the feedback.
Very thorough kit build!
In the future, I’d recommend replacing those cheap electrolytic caps with a higher quality ones.
Thanks +irgski. What caps would you recommend?
Phil Tipping Hi Phil. For a couple references, I’d recommend “Which capacitor do I use” off You Tube from Mr. Carlson’s Lab and badcaps.net.
I think that Rubycon and Nichicon e-caps are the “good ones” to use these days. Also, be sure to use the ones rated for 105degrees C as these are constructed with the better materials.
Ok +irgski thanks for the info.
Last minute of the video is the best! The 8bit generator seems to be very nice piece of equipment :P
@robsonicam thanks for stopping by. More info & videos about the synth are here www.philizound.co.uk/freebies/modular-synth/modular-synth.html
Phil, thanks for the video. It reminded me of all the precautions I know I should be taking.😀
Thanks +Alan Powell, yes it's very tempting to just get stuck in without thinking it through... but you have to resist :)
Nice video! I'm waiting for my kit to come in and I'll definitely be taking your advice when building it.
Ok Jarrett many thanks and good luck with the build.
Fantastic vid. Thanks for taking the time. Anyone know a technique for the shorting during installation of those few components ?
@Jeremy Corrin thanks for stopping by, Jeremy. Didn't understand your question "...shorting during installation..." ?
At 15:11 it says "short JP3 with solder". I'm guessing you apply solder that covers from contact to contact while the power is being setup and then removed prior to actually powering up the device?
@@xxlabratxx01 You just use a blob of solder to bridge the gap, and this 'shorts' the 2 pads together... but you do *not* have to remove the short later. Just follow the exact instructions in the assembly manual. Step 21 says to bridge/short JP3, then later step 2A.3 says to bridge/short JP4, but only do this if the voltage is correct (JP4 is shown at 17:30 in the video). If the voltage is not correct, there is a fault, so this needs fixing before proceeding.
@@philtipping thanks so much! And thanks again for the video
@@xxlabratxx01 No worries, Jeremy. Good luck :)
My kit arrived yesterday from Bangood. Being keen to get started I did it in the evening when I was really too tired, big mistake! Definitely not a kit for beginners, you need a little practice at soldering at least. The instructions as supplied are a bit limited, but just about sufficient. I think they need modifying slightly,the soldering iron needs to have a fine bit (my 3mm Antex doesn't make it easy, but it will do when I assemble my next kit, a T12 soldering station). They need to add a magnifying glass to the tools list. I spent ages hunting down a couple of poor soldering joints, one was on one of the selector switches, and the other on R8. After a lot of button pushing the results seemed way off, so I waited until morning, rechecked and re-flowed a few joints, then found the "Factory Reset" (press + & - for 2 seconds), and everything is now fine. Your video was a great deal of help, even though I have been doing electronics for many years, thanks!
+Stephen Cook thanks again Stephen, glad it all worked out in the end so thanks for sharing your findings.
Nice & Detailed, Thanks for posting. Sadly, mine powered up, but It does not seem to work, regarding the input signal. I absolutely have no waveform whatsoever. Have you ever assembled, or had one that seems to work perfectly regarding all the function selections with the slide/push button switches. Yet does not measure any input at all ???
Thanks +scifialiengeek. I've only made the one in the video so haven't had to troubleshoot yet. If you have a meter you could check a few things around the input stages - not sure how comfortable you are with the circuit diagram. If not, ask on the jyetech forum - they all seem pretty helpful - if you browse through it there might even be a solution posted. Good luck.
If anyone else has this problem, I found that I swapped the + and - regulators when I installed them. Did not see that they were apposing voltage regulators. Luckily it did not damage anything, and now the sweet little O-Scope works great!
Well this is exactly the point I made at approx 6:41, but thanks for sharing as it shows just how easy it is to miss something unless you check & double-check *before* soldering. As you say, at least you were lucky there was no further damage, but it could easily have been worse.
Could you use this scope on cars etc for diagnostic work? Sensors, ignition and injectors?
@BoostHit sorry I don't know what requirements you need for this type of work. The scope specs show its max voltage and frequency range etc. so if your diagnostic work doesn't need anything outside these limits, it should be ok.
Brilliant video! Thanks. There is hardly a possibility of using an a/b mode on this product?
@Will Kmep thanks for the feedback Will. Not sure what possibilities there are nowadays - I believe a few people have modified the firmware so just search for dso138 hacks. Also check out the jyetech.com website for their more recent developments on this.
I was about to ask if one can use this to monitor signals from modular synths at the end xD
This is a really good video. You don't get them like this every day! New Sub!
@Akoben Adinkrahene thanks for stopping by; glad you liked it.
Great video. No theatrics, clear and through.
Thanks for the feedback +spacial2