FIX your FLOYD ROSE TUNING ISSUE with this SIMPLE TRICK!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- This one restringing trick solved most of it.... with NO TOOLS
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I always tuned a tiny tiny bit low, then held the strings down across the top where you’re talking about, then slowly and carefully tightened them down. Then I used the fine tuners to adjust to perfect E. It’s not perfect and stupid that there was even a need to do that, but it always got the job done.
That is how I do it
I'm going to try this method later, it makes sense so worth trying.
Yeah I always compensate for that little bit before locking the nut
Me too
i have a few guitars i have to use this same method you use, but now i see this, going to buy bars for alllll of them =D.
That retainer bar is so important to tuning issues.
I lowered bars on 2 of my floyd strats and don't even lock the nut on either and they both have rock solid tuning.
Great video
Why not lock it down tho ?
@@jamesstewart1794 It stays in tune. It has something to do with the string angles
My 1993 MIJ Ibanez RG 470 had the same issues WITH the retainer bar and it drove me nuts. My teacher tightened the bar down a bit and then showed me the "bottom of the post" winding method and the problems were solved. Great video.
I have this same guitar, same color and everything, and it is my first time dealing with a Floyd Rose. I've watched video after video of people telling me how to tune them with no real difference being made. Your video is the only one that talks about the tension gap like this. I look forward to messing with it! Great video, man!
I’m in the same boat.. color and all
Lol everyone seems to be buying this exact guitar (myself included).
So I noticed before locking the nut, you have to tune the guitar MANY times before it will stay at the pitch you want... is this a floyd rose thing? Or just a cheap floyd rose thing? It's super annoying and I would buy a more expensive tremolo if it would fix it lol
@@SeanDS1989 How many times are you stretching the stings? I use a Floyd as well on a Jem Jr and also a Schecter Diamond Series guitar and I have to stretch the stings dozens of times before it will stay in tune. I don't lock it up until I have stretched the strings many times. Check out the video of Steve Vai's guitar tech doing his guitars. He literally holds the entire guitar up just holding the low E string while stretching it LOL
It's a good tip! :) I got used to adjusting my tuning on my RG350 by tuning it a bit flat to compensate the effect of pushing the strings sharp when locking the nut. That works, too.
Thanks Steve! I can remember Looooong ago, the bar was Not an option, but a standard! But , those days are far Gonnnnne! Thanks Again!
I just learned something today!! I had a couple Jacksons with a floyd and every time I locked the nut It would go out of tune and now I know why!! I never thought of that! Awesome dude thanks for sharing 👍!!
Could you just tune it a half step down before you lock the nut? Then you'll be in the ballpark as far as tuning goes when it's locked
Yes but it's plausible you'd have to find 10-15 cents via fine tuning, which might give you trouble intonating.
Brilliant Steve, you’re so right, that’s a massive flaw. Those machine timers at the bridge are so sensitive I can see how it can screw you and have them all the way up versus ideally having them in the middle. That’s insane. Still, great price on a guitar like this. I have always loved Jackson guitars. They sound sooo good.
Great video man! I've been doing this for years. More people need to know about intel like this.
On my 1991 HM Strat Floyd Rose Lo Pro, I just tune each string about 5-10 cents flat before locking the nut down tight and bring them up to pitch with the fine tuners. I have the fine tuners loosened up quite a bit before hand so it also takes the rattle and slop out of them in the process. Then you have plenty of adjustment either way with the fine tuners after it's locked down.
My 91 Jackson Rhoads and my 96 Jackson Kelly have the right break angle. I believe something changed recently.
Good fix man 👍
I have seen guitars with that type of string retainer that are not set up properly.
Yeah, all my OG Floyd Rose dont have that problem, nor does any of the Ibanez Edge Pro series.
My jackson kelly from a few years ago doesn’t have that problem either. Haven’t noticed any issues with tuning jumping around after locking the nut 🤷♂️
I had to have one added, too, nice to see this so I know I'm not crazy. : )
I've just bought a JS32 V and couldn't figure out why the pitch was changing every time I locked the nut. Brilliant video and very helpful. Gonna order those bars today cheers 🤘🏻
Hey Steve just wanna thank you man. I have Dean MAB4 guitar, great one but it doesn't have a bar from factory. I had just same issues like you bro, and i saw your video. I added a bar and tuning is spot on man. Thank you for this great tip man 🤘
I always fill my tuning post full with string always helped with tuning stability. One of the first things I installed on my Kramer Dave Sabo signature model was a string tree and installed a Fu-Tone brass big block and Titanium saddle blocks and screws. Everytime I put new stings on it's super easy and always stays in tune. Same with my old original Kramer Nightswan as well. Even my old Hamer Californian is set up the same way. It's honestly a no brainer. Even if your not comfortable doing that to a guitar, it's cheap to have done by a tech. It's great, all you have to worry about is playing and not fighting with your guitar!
Hi there, I have a PRS that I bought with the brass Fu-Tone pre-installed. I’m definitely sold on those and now I want to do your same set up on my Kramer Sabo, it came with the term stopper and it holds tune really well when it’s engaged. But I’d like to do the brass block. Do you know which one is the one to get for the Kramer Baretta Sabo? There are many to chose from. Any help would be great!
@@Tiago_007 42mm Brass big block. I removed my trem stopper and Dtuna. Obviously I kept the parts in the case with the guitar, but I always preferred a floating trem. I never seem to have the tuning issues people say they have and I've been playing Floyd Rose trems for 35 years lol.
@@charlesb7831 That’s great! Thanks for letting me know. I’ll do what you did, let’s see what happens!
I have really solid guitars with amazing japanese bridges (gotoh) and I just used them without the locking tuner for YEARS now. it stays in tune using locking tuners, but it always got me thinking. Today I decided to understand it and found your video, that was amazing. thank you very much!
A bar doesnt belong on a jackson headstock, for me at least. A combination of downwinding on the posts and having low profile tuners helped me so far. At one point I even contemplated putting a thin washer on thd backside of the tuner to decrease its profile even more. But thats not a clean solution of course. Making a thicker headstock would certainly help to solve the problem, you hear me Jackson😉
The Jacksons NEVER had one, and now I think of it, you can see they never did because the truss rod cover covers the area where you would have one.
Steve's had to put the bar too far up the headstock towards the tuners, and I really don't think it looks good!! I'm fussy about stuff like that, it just looks 'wrong'!!!
The Jackson Phil Collen and Adrian Smith guitars have them maybe per artist request due to these kind of problems. @@2112GTR
couldnt they just put a different angle on the metal piece the strings arent sitting flat on?
Just about went insane last week when i changed strings on my dinky. So glad i saw this vid. Heading to Amazon to get a bar now. Thanks Steve!!
Floyd Roses are just the drizzles at the best of time.
I think you are the only good thing to come out of Boston in recent memory. Great video on a troubling condition to tilt-back headstocks with Floyds.
This watching this video was the equivalent of a lightbulb going off. Thank you so much definitely going to try the different wrapping on my old Jackson rr3
Thank you for this idea. I just got my first neck-through guitar -- a Bullfighter Jackson Soloist lookalike -- and it's the first guitar I've owned both with a Floyd and without the retainer bar. Naturally, I had no idea that the lack of that bar would cause problems. I had heard about this winding technique used on guitars without locking nuts; this is the first I've seen of this technique used in this sort of situation. Brilliant!
Not sure if you mentioned it, but locking tuners may also help since they have shorter posts. Seems redundant with the clamp but makes string changes faster too.
Yep, gotohs drop right in, never have problems with any of my Jacksons… great point.
Depends on the brand, sometimes youre at the mercy of having the post holes exactly at the required height. Especially if your nut needs a shim at some point, or needs work at all.
Yes exactly, locking tuners on every guitar no matter locking nut or not, who wants to wrap strings these days
Correct, plus the tuners on these suck. Two birds 1 stone.
I'm for adding a couple wraps all the way on down to the bottom of the post. That's how I've always done it. Then when a string breaks at the bridge, where they always break, you can reel off some string and replant it into the bridge.
That was always my trick especially back when I was a kid, I would put as many wraps as I could get with the string going over the top of itself. My friends would say you got too much string on the post. Then they saw me break a wrapped string at the bridge (edge lo pro )of course and I had it back up and playing in 2 minutes and they saw the method to my madness . I never had the money or a ride to get new strings so I had to get the most out of them, sometimes they looked like flat wounds on the first couple frets after a few nip tuck procedures.
Nice, I'm going to try the string winding thing tonight, and get a bar soon. Thanks for this advice!
Did this today myself. Went to a luthier and he didn't want to do the job (never got asked before) and because the bar wasn't ideal. Was not the same as this one. Got a 55mm thinking it would be better. Had to tilt it a little in order to have enough spacing all around. So glad I did this!! Clamping the nut used to go from E to F.
Thank you so much.Added one my firefly. Made a considerable difference.
Steve! Love your videos man. Just realized that for the past year and a half I had the top part of my Floyd Rose screwed in UPSIDE DOWN!!!! The close ups on this videos made me realize that! LOL
I noticed right away as compared to my jem Jr, it never had this issue so it was obvious why. And when you really hammer it and pull up until it nearly bottoms out like Vai, it really went out of tune even when locked because it had such gap. Your recording tone and mix is excellent by the way!
That's really great advice Steve that should help a bunch of players
Yeah my BC rich was like that with no bar and i never could figure it out when i was a kid. Everytime i locked the nut it went far out of tune and the fine tuners could never get it close enough. That guitar is broken now and since then i stuck with straight bridges. I plan on getting another guitar with a floyd in the near future though, so this is good info!
My randy rhoads is a JS32. The first time I changed the strings in it, I went to make a spring adjustment and the whole bridge fell out. I eventually got it in tune but the bridge wasn't level. I got in touch with a luthier I know but he was going on holidays at the time so, after some procrastination, I had a go at a proper setup myself using a youtube video as my guide. It took me a couple of days because a string broke near the end of the process so I started from scratch with another new strings set the next day. Anyway, after all that, I didn't have to do a thing to the intonation because it was still spot on and it holds its tuning very well even after playing Slayer songs with lots of whammy bar use. I didn't put a retaining bar on the headstock. More of a version of your no tools solution but not quite going to the base of the tuning peg. Didn't have the issue of it going sharp after locking. I was able to set my fine tuners halfway before locking the nut and didn't need much fine tuning.
Thanks. I never knew the purpose of that bar. Changes everything.
Multiple guitars have this problem, I wish they would go with a straight headstock and add the 1$ stringbar...
I usually remove the trussrod cover, redill the stringbar and use the 2 screw holes from the trussrod cover, this way I do not have to drill the headstock and can remove the stringbar to restore factory settings.
Thanks for the tip Steve. I am about to install a Floyd speed loader in my next build.
YES! those two things i've been using for a couple of years that i'm playing my floyd rose guitar
That’s totally awesome you thought of that! Very happy you did it on a Jackson cause this should apply to all jackson guitars cause the headstock are all the same
That’s also why having the proper amount of string winds going down the tuner post is crucial. These days people only wrap 1 or 2 wraps
Thank you. I hope I get a JS32Q soon because I just bought the bars in your link. 👍
I have a nice custom strat type with this very issue...it's like i have to tune it flat for it to come up to pitch. PITA. Beautiful playing guitar. I have suspected the lack of this bar was the issue and this confirms it.
dude once again your right
Pixxy I have just stumbled upon this tuning issue. My Son now has one of these guitars and guess what, the tuning alters just as you say once the strings are clamped. And yep on E & A the tuning changes are huge. It had me really frustrated as I was fighting the guitar to stay in tune. Luckily a Google search of this problem had your cheerful face as the top result. I knew straight away I had an expert who could solve the problem🥰
right on great idea man. ill look at that issue with more detail now. seems simple should have known.
Totally agree with this video -- I discovered this same thing a few months ago!!!
I always preferred the Kahler lock nut, has a built-in retainer to keep the strings down on the nut
Steve, I've ALWAYS wrapped my strings so they coil towards the peg hole FROM THE BOTTOM; Floyd Rose or not. Reason being is because the tuning peg is tapered towards the hole..so the nature of the science is as the string tensions, it wants to naturally induce force (inclined plane), while the back of the nut serves as a break point.
Just got a JS32 Kelly. This is a great tip, gonna try it...Thank you!!
Good tip. I put locking tuners on my Jacksons just because I love the ease of string changes with locking tuners. The locking tuners I buy have a much lower post and I don't have any problems tuning. Jacksons and Charvels with those type headstocks have never had the retainer bars even the more expensive ones or older ones. They just never have.
What locking tuners did you use...???
@@ToneD5150 Gotohs are my favorite
I had a similar "issue" with some of my affordable Jacksons...I simply replaced the stock tuners with Wilkinson EZ-Loks : They have two holes in each post ( perpendicular ) and I used the lower ones...Problem solved 🙂🙂
I gave up on my dinky reverse. It was just a nightmare to keep in consistent tune. Just can't dig Floyd Rose setups. Went back to playing a fixed bridge guitar. Great video. I'm gonna do this to my Jackson and see if I can enjoy playing it..
This is video is such a diamond of shared experience! Thank you for sharing this bit of knowledge!
I suppose if you get tuners with a very low post would do the trick as well. I've seen locking sperzels that sit pretty low. Even though its redundant to lock the tuner it does make the string change much easier.
Exactly.
Compensated tuners
I got your tip, your link, and your instructions. Thanks brother. Just gotta decide on which Jackson.
Good info. Thanks for reinforcing a great fundamental that’s needed.
I just bought a Kramer Majestic and it didn't come with the string retainer bar now this guitar has the crazy headstock
Man! That Jackson is sick! That color pops!
I have a Jackson Soloist and I have never had this problem. But it's not a JS series either. I do a complete FR bridge setup once a year because I like to keep my guitar as new as possible for as long as possible. You know, remove strings, cleanup the body, blow out all the cracks and crevasses with my compressor. Oil the fretboard, polish the frets and restring the guitar. Every time I do a full FR setup my guitar it will literally stay in tune for months. As a matter of fact, the only time my guitar goes out of tune is when the weather changes from Summer to Winter or Winter back to Summer. When that happens I just have to refloat the bridge which only takes 10min or less. The biggest problem I've had was the guitar originally came with a FR Special and in all fairness it worked well for about 3 years, then strings started popping out of the saddles. It didn't matter how tight the lock screws were, the damn strings would still pop out. After researching this online, it appears this is a common problem with the FR Special (Zinc alloy vs Hardened steel). I replaced it with an Original FR (Schaller) version and the problem disappeared.
i changed mine with the new kahler that has the build in string guide angle thing,way better locking nuts than a floyd type out there...they got it right this time
Wicked cool point! Thanks
I had a jackson explorer and like you said is already on tune and after the locking nut is tighten is goes sharp
I got this guitar (White) used on Guitar Center based on your video for $255. Thanks! I also bought the bar for the nut based on what you said earlier.
I have a Jackson JS22 and love it but looking to upgrade to a higher Jackson next year, hopefully the company sees this video and rectifies the problem.
Thank you so much for this video, now I know how to get a decent range with the floyd rose fine tuners. 👍
Nice job with the addition of that string tree.
That was a great explanation and demonstration
Thank you
Good advice! The high E string on my Jackson is very, very close to the edge of the headstock, if not inline with the very edge. I was considering a floyde Rose 1000 to get better tunning stability! Hopefully this does the job. Thank you!
That's brilliant! Will need to check my guitar with the locking trem for the break angle.
Its a common problem with these kind of guitars with floyd and locking nuts. In my humble opinion the best option is to get rid of the locking, change the tuners for hipshot tuners, and if needed, change the floyd rose for a good semi floating bridge (vegatrem or any good brand)
I got the 22 was going to get the 32 but got a used king v for $350 and very happy with my choice,thanks for the video too
Love watching you, bro. Your playing is fire, and you are fun as hell!
That is a crazy coincidence. I JUST picked up 3 different colors of these to decide which finish and noticed this on every one of them. I ended up keeping 2 and just did this 2 days ago.
You have enough popularity that I'm sure you could get Jackson and other companies to take notice and fix this
I have a Jackson MJ Soloist with no bar and all the strings except the high e sit perfectly in the nut before it is clamped. It hasn’t caused me any tuning issues so I guess I got lucky or the headstock angle and tuner post height is just right. Anyway, great video, thanks for putting this out here.
Love that purple!!
Had something similar on a guitar I had, I just tuned it lower so that it would go up to the right pitch when clamping it
Yo that close up "end zone pylon camera" on the headstock is great...after further review....string retainer bar is needed....
I love the inexspensive Dinky's from Jackson! I have 2, and they are great inexpensive guitars.
In the 80s Jacksons often used Kahler trems which have a different locking nut which didn’t have this problem.
I added the same retainer bar to both my jackson dinky with floyd and king v with floyd. They should really include that.
Just bought a used js22 in blue just like yours!
More windings on the post would also help this issue. Keep rocking
Also something I suggest is that you always tighten the nut down. I have seen SO MANY guitars over the years that the screws that hold the nut down to the neck are slightly loose and this can make a huge difference in tuning stability.
The rear mounted is far better because the wood screw will strip the hole overtime.
Nowadays we can count few manufacturers that stick to the good old days of rear mounting the locking nut, EVH, TOM ANDERSON & IBANEZ JEM.. 😥
@@nafis6668 Yep! There is a reason guys like Vai still use the through neck mounted locking nut. Cheaper to do it top mounted, but not better by any means.
Oh heck yeah! That is the biggest issue with the floyd nut, quite annoying. I used a very small amount of gorilla super glue gel to hold the nut in place and it’s working great. Just use a tiny bit, not enough to change the nut height, it doesn’t take much. Also put a small dab on the front face where it mates to the fingerboard, then when your screws are good and tight put another small dab on the screw head so it won’t back out. Tiny dabs is all it takes you want to make sure you can still get the nut off with easy cleanup and no damage to the wood. The gel gives you more time to work, it doesn’t set up in 5 seconds.
I think drilling all the way through the neck for that might make the headstock weak at that point. I've seen so many Ibanez guitars where the neck snapped off right at that point. Lets face it though, you drop one of these guitars and something is probably going to snap. I dropped a Kramer cause it slipped off the strap and snapped the headstock in two. Never go without some kind of strap lock. Lesson learned.@@nafis6668
Thanks a lot Steve, nice trick! Cheers from El Salvador.
4:55 - I hope this helps someone, but it never occurred to me that people would not just know or assume to do that. I mean I do that with non locking trems. I just thought that was the proper way to string a guitar since day 1. With all of the "loops" and "knots" and how much slack to leave before tightening, keeping the string as close to the headstock as possible was the one part I WAS sure of.
In regards to the science that make string instruments work. The breaking angles are at the saddles and at the bottom of the locking nut/1st fret. Anything behind/above that shouldn't effect the tuning if the nut is locked. That gap can cause rattling and buzz, but the tuning lies in the space between the 2 breaking angles. Your pitch might go a little high when you lock your nut and that's based on the angle the nut is at. Adjusting the relief in your neck also plays a factor in putting that nut at the correct angle. My Jem Jr. would be an example of that. When I first bought it, it would go sharp when I locked it down, but I also noticed more curve in the neck than it should have had. Once I adjusted the truss rod, the "issue" went away. (As you said there is always a tiny change on the thick strings because you are changing the tension just a little bit.) But, all mine have the bar as well. In ---> theory,
Damn,I love that guitar Steve.Purple is my favorite color!That deep purple's waycool.Once again my friend,thanks for the knowledge.
Great observation. Thanks for the tip, Steve.
yes, this is actually what this bar is for, its to get the strings coming out of the locking nut perfectly so when you crank the lockers down the tuning does not change, there are other ways but who wants to make tapered shims for their nut when the height is already dead "nut".. it is frustrating specially on vintage where a guy doesn't want to drill holes in a $6000 guitar and destroy the value on a very rare first year floyd, at that point my suggestion is the tapered shim.. if it brings your nut height too tall and you;re already running the thinnest nut available you can lower the nut pocket, this isn't really a bad thing ona floyd as the nuts come in 3 heights, so if a guy wants higher string height he can get a taller nut..
a whole lot better than drilling holes in the headstock.. also, always try to bring the string wrap down the tuners toa height where the strings come off the nut at the proper angle so when the lockers are tightened the tuning isn't blown out of shape ... yessir very good tips .. also the break angle off the nut can be greater as in lower then needed, its just when its too high when you tighten lockers taking up that slock knocks tuning out.. budget guitar a bar is perfect but a guy should think twice on any valuable gits specially vintage, those old guitars made when bars were not in use, myself I try not to deface vintage in any way at all, or any high end new or old..
I honestly believe this tuning issue is why Charvel came up with the behind the nut locker, however and I have had this come up, with behind the nut it the string angle does not math the break to the locker nothing you can do but carve a new nut and cut that slot at the proper angle, cuz the same thing can happen, tighten lockers and it brings the string tithe to the nut slot cuz the slot angle is wrong and then that slack is taken up, BOOM! I really like the behind the nut better for soe many more reasons, changing that slow angle is easy, changing height is easy, no shimming so forth, and changing the ut material is simple, metal, brass, plastic, bone, phenolic, wooly mammoth whatever, I think with locking nut you get steel, steel and steel, every so often you run across a brass but those are getting harder and harder to find, (kahler) great topic, a lot of folks struggle on this and get rid of the guitar, or deal with lack of adjustment, hale for a long while I would just over tune or undertone so then the lock was tightened it went into tune so I had full adjust on the fine tuners... nothing worse than all but one string adjusting to tune but that one string runs out of adjustment.. specially on stage ... uuhhhhgggg ... rock on son!
Steve, I’d reallyyyyyy like to see you review these new Inspired by Gibson ‘61 Les Paul SGs. I just played one for the first time and was absolutely floored. Unreal value for the money
Awesome, great trick will definitely use it next restring
great vid to show the real issue.. thanks for posting this.. you might have screwed in the bar BEFORE placing strings to set those screws a bit better .. people always want upgraded tuners on floyd guitars.. funny.. "you just clamp it".. they dont need to be the best for sure.. but trying to set those fine tuners before locking can be a difficult task.. this is a positive solution.. if you look to Eddies guitar tech.. he said Eddie was sent some EVH guitars that would not stay in tune and he was upset.. his method to stretch them was to pull the tuners so tight just before the strings broke.. the tech never made that mistake again.. Edward hated the strings stretching.. he was tough on them before locking them down..
My 1996 mike shanon soloist doesn't have a bar but I've learned to tune flat before tightening
Hey Steve, that's one advantage of headless guitars I suppose. The old Steinberger GM model line is amazing. It would be interesting to see you reviewing a headless guitar.
This is why SFB rocks 🤘🤘
Thats been an issue since they started making guitars in Indonesia. It looks like the tuners are taller on that guitar compared to my 90s MIJ guitars
You don’t have to modify your guitar. Simply tune your guitar with the locking nut loosened and the fine tuners as high as possible without falling out. Once the guitar is in tune, slightly detune E and A and then tighten the locking nut for those two strings. Retune all six strings, using fine tuners for the locked strings and the regular tuners for the remaining unlocked strings . Repeat the same process for the other two locking nuts. You should be in tune and have plenty of travel left in the fine tuners for when your strings inevitably go flat with time/wear. Eventually you’ll get a feel for exactly how your system functions and it’ll become much more intuitive over time. My 2c from dealing with Ibanez, Jackson and Kiesel trems as far back as ‘93.
That's exactly what I have been doing for 30 years. works like a charm.
Your right.problem is when occasional player s encounter the weird effects that occurs when you have the 3 locking nuts untightened trying to get it into tune and on an ibinez like mine when I remember this ,the neck angle is not much.especially when i compare it to my Kramer's that have a noticable amount more than my ibinez.and the string bridg is really close to the lonking nuts and it wasnt as screwed down as it probly should be and to close and not down enough really didnt put much pressure to benefit and eliminate the problem totally.no problem ever happened until 10 yrs after I bought it.but i must have always wound my strings as far down on the tuning knob as possible.or at least the time it went bad i had for some reason wrapped the knob so the string last wrap was high and farthest from the neck.this reduced the pressure on the strings enough to ,with the locking tuners fully loosened ,make difficult to get into correct tune,the tuner itself. Was hearing the string incorrectly and erratically .the moree or less tentsion put onto tremolo from even the slightest amount from just 1 or 2 strings would give the tuner a false inncorect readout.often tuning 2 adjacent strings like 1 and 2 to the same pitch.on the ibinez it created a strange sharp twangy sound that threw off the 3 tuners i tried.until you figure it out you do what every human does.to speed up the investigation and attempting to get in tune and it won't.so your more ready to solve the issue and play,then yi keep the 3 neck locking nuts fully loosened until you get it closer to in tune.those nuts resting on the strings without pressure are a result of the problem and will always ,at least the side of the nut resting more softly against one of the 2 strings it services will always produce ,in some cases that have the problem ,they will always produce,1 or 2 false tuning instructions from a digital tuner.so you just try things you think possibly could be changed during the restringing process like bad or sprung springs,slipped spring bracket holder screws.....but al the while on my guitar after 10yrs of never happening,i think my roomate played it while i was out of town and broke some strings or a string.and put a new one on and it stood out more from tarnishing or oxidation😅 than putting all 6 new ones on.i go along time back then using same strings.i remember the way they were wound was like I had never done before.i wound mine closer to neck.thought I was just high the last time I did it.they were wound away from the neck.i think that ibinez with little slant angles along with my string hold down bar seeming to not be screwed down as much as I think it may be should.this all creates enough pressure loss on the strings while touching corners or edges on those loosened nuts is what my prob was.if you think about it ,because there is a difference in diameter of the opposing string beside it that q nut holds down,it means one string will have more pressure and more of nut touching.if I removed the nut s totally I bet it wouldin give the false readouts from tuner..thats like a quarter inch .well when I rewound them my way ,the problem never occured again.14plus years on that guitar...so i think this video is very valid and relevant and can save someone alot of time and pain. So sometimes there are hard to find issues effecting sound s.didnt Floyd rose get designed and invented and engineered specifically for those extreme angled and extreme slanted necks?after the patentent or maybe there wasn't one but when it got taken from one guitar with different angles and parameters and slapped onto another like it was designed and engineered for it when it wasn't.but these guitar companies didn't want to add,change ,alter or spend the minor amounts that were needed to ensure problems didn't occur in the future.like mine.1 string change in the middle of the years I owned it ,and strings wound away from neck and it happened. I think about 7 or 8 years into a 21 year old guitar.but it hurts the brand name when this happens.because you bet that all makers Ibanez too are well aquatinted with the possibility of it happening....and if you are aware of the problem and or possibility then in a perfect world you would do as your instructions said and you would not have it come into play.but when you frustrated ,want to play guitar,but can't figure out the problem.especially when it was just rippin before you changed strings (or before theybwere changed by your roomate to do the right thing when they break strings on your guitar.)and now without you doin xanything to it before i went out of town and didnt even know the strings were changed until i niticed some clues .like i changed my kramer and ibanez strings at the same time.but when i looked ,the ibanez looked brand new. But when the guitars were side by side you could see the older duller color of the not new kramer strings.and they were kept in same environment and played equally as much.
I have this issue and I would tune to half step down or so maybe 30c off then clamp and ide only need to fine tune 10-cents or so. I have have string tree also. . Clamping still sets it sharp.
Most of my Floyd Rose equipped guitars have the bar but a few don't. I usually just tune them down 1/2 a step and tightening down the nut brings them close. I never thought about winding the post differently though. I think I'll try cutting the strings a little longer to get more wraps.
Excellent video. Blessings.
thanks mate didnt know that, going to do this mod to my new guitar I I brought that I'm doing a full top to bottom mod on
awesome those little details great channel steve from boston!
I just ordered an X series Dinky with the floyd and I see it is missing the retainer bar. Thanks for pointing this out. I went on the Jackson website and the bar is missing on even the Pro series. I noticed the Adrian Smith signature X series has it. Its kinda random. Adrian probably told them to put it on there. Just ordered those off amazon through your link. Cheap fix. My ESP LTD MH-1000 that I've had for over 15 years has one on it. That was a $700 guitar when i bought it back in the '90s.