I do so enjoy watching you.and your Enginuity.because i am the same way.i beleave theres always a way to achieve your goal.and most people would give up before attempting to try to use that much brain power and energy. I admire that your a woman with that much spunk.my hats off to you hun
I love this...Great work! One thing I think I would change, however, would be instead of the channels in the sides, cut dados into the sides of the block and have rails that the block slides on. They would always be a consistent height and it wouldn't matter if your table is smooth. Also, if the rails are a little raised, it would keep your block from getting lifted up by router dust that collects on the table.
Cutting a cove on a table saw is very acceptable if you have the right (side cutting or 'planer') blade and do not force the piece. I worked in a pattern shop at a wood box and crate shop, and the old Oliver table saw had a fence that you could skew for just this purpose. With a couple finger boards and your wits about you, some very nice crown mouldings could be made!
Thanks for the information. When I make a couple of these I think I will cut the blanks several inches longer (4 to 6 inches) than needed, so that I can easily feed it through from one side only. Once I reach the desired length of radius-ed material I can then use the chop saw to cut it to length. This should keep my fingers safe at the expensive of a bit of scrape wood.
Seen a video of a guy putting a radius on his fretboard bye swinging the fret board instead of the router router was stationary homade worked really well
Another great video. That set up with the table saw is fine for doing concave cuts, I made some boxes that looked like Books and for the page part of the box I used this method but I did have a fence each side of the work piece, as long as you're confidant with what you're doing go for it. Going back to the Guitar neck / headstock joint I didn't know you were going to split it and put the veneers in it, a very nice touch, and added strength, perhaps a finger joint would have been a bit OTT
nice result! and a nice idea! when drilling in the wood you better increase the revolution speed of your screw machine. it improves the result of your holes and it puts less force on your drill bit. in general the smaller the drill the higher the speed.
Nice work! I would have thought the jig to hold the router could have been done much more simply by screwing the base of the machine to a piece of plywood in the same way you would attach the router to a router table, instead of making a plywood cradle thing which clamps the router in place, but your method worked well anyway, so well done!
+SoundsToBlowYourMind The base plate would have needed to be thin, and I couldn't see how I could have made it rigid without extending a bit beyond the base of the router. This would have been tricky for a 9" radius block as the extra bits would get in the way
Excellent job. A thought: since you have those nice semi circles already cut into the full length, why not cut a dowel that’s close to the arc of the handholds an cut it/plane it and then attach it to the two side guides. It would go a long way to keeping your fingers out of harm’s way and help the piece stay centered vertically as you cut. No jumping up during the cut. Seems like an easy mod. Add some paste wax for easing the neck blocks through.
Clever girl! I was just watching another channel's video about homemade radius blocks but he had the router laying down on it's side which made it all very awkward and so it made me think: "Why not just mount it somehow like a pendulum?" ...and then I found you! I subbed...great job!
Nice work ,love your design ,dont forget; wood moves when its milled or cut check for twists and out of square regularly even as time passes wood will move, apart from a piece of maple ive cut it has blunted everything i have apart from a grinder, my spoke shave hates its spintery guts so do i ,dreading fret time.,
HA! Very Cool! lol I may make some ! Im thinking I may make an A frame that way could eliminate the horizontal boom that maybe can flex and would center the weight... and maybe no need for all the extra clamping but video is really a great idea! which also gives me an idea .... You could use the A frame and mount router below and make a fretboard compound radius jig... :D by mounting the neck upside down on the pendulum
Since there is only a limited area available for holding the workpiece down between the fences, wouldn't it be helpful to make spring-loaded rollers for before and after the router zone to keep downward pressure constantly applied to the workpiece? The other thing I note is that your workbench does not appear to be rock solid, which is undesirable for this category of operation.
15 degrees or 15" radius for us Americans? I think you said 15 inches but that would be a pretty tight radius? It seems like a lot of work but you will have some nice sanding blocks when through.
Very nice router jig! However, I would consider the pre-routing work unnecessary. Imagine a visibly ”non-square” piece of wood. As long as the router does its job, shouldn’t the sanding block do its job just fine? How would the squareness of the other three sides matter? Nice job, though!
An idea I just came up with: you could leave a small rail on both sides of the radius block you're making and an equally sized hole on the woods that keep it in place. You would then put the block between them so they couldn't move upwards or downwards. Then, after you're finished with routing the radius you could saw the rails off the block. Or would that be too elaborate, time consuming and complicated? Did anyone understand what I mean?
Are you related to Heath Robinson? Great video, love watching to see how you get round problems, can't wait for the next video, and to see that beautiful guitar completed!
Nicely done, very clever and the make it yourself spirit is admirable. If one had to buy all of the materials like the plywood and hardware etc. how much would it cost in your location. Crimson Guitar sells the 12 inch blocks for 16 pounds?
+Tom duffy the crimson blocks would be £42 for the 2. I guess the materials might have cost £20 if I had to buy everything individually. They were all part of bulk buys though so I guess I paid £10?
Good job, what router bit size did you use? Looks like straight flute. I got jig that was made by MARK KIRKWOOD, he still has a TH-cam video about it if you curious, but think he is off the grid, not bad but had to make adjustments even though using same trim router he says he designed it for but it sits too loose in cradle.
Susie, you are a real inspiration, I really love the finished blocks, they are so cool with the handle channel on the side. I've never built a radius sanding block but I was planning to and I was going to do it all on the table saw. I thought it could be done that way, is there a reason it can't?
+Buddy Martin I've seen DKG Custom make a radius block on a table saw. You have to make a sled that pivots around a pivot point below the level of the table
Thanks Susie, I took a few looks here and there and it seems like your jig is probably easier and quicker and ya gotta admit, it sure does the job! Thank you... Buddy
thank you Susan . question please what wood for the radius blocks did you use ? also why 12 " and 15 " radius ? is the 12 " for the headstock end and the 15 " for the sound hole end ?
Great job, Susie, you've inspired me to make my own! Curious how you're going to affix the sandpaper to them (double face tape?) so it's replaceable, but that'll probably be covered in a future video. SO proud of the parlour guitar restoration videos, I've watched everyone as I'm recouping from a shoulder replacement. Love the honest style of your videos...wish I could clean up with a snap of my fingers!
Some people have done that but I think it needs a more sophisticated level of engineering to produce a reliable finish. Ebony fretboards aren’t cheap items if you need to start again!
+Susan Gardener I would assume the result would be quite comparable to the ones you get in this video. Sure, it would need some touch up with sandpaper to level out the router marks, but otherwise it should be fine if one chooses sensible feed rates. Quite right though, sanding, although slower, is less risky.
I admire you for your desicatwment in building your own tools and the attention to detail you put in this, but wouldn't you have been better off buying those sanding blocks? I paid 15€ for mine at rall guitars here in germany
Sanding blocks are not cheap..At least with this way,you can make several blocks of the same radius with different lengths and cost you fraction of the price.
@@phatthand so for 9 blocks,it will cost 90.00..What is the length?..By making your own, it will cost about 10.00 for 9..You can do it even cheaper because you can have 2 Radius' on one block..It may not be worth it if you have to purchase a router and router bit..Once the jig is made,you can make those blocks at any time..That's the way I see it anyway.
Good Susan. A woman who makes things............where have you been all my life? I know, for most of it you weren't born!!!! One suggestion, one point of information; 1. Use a piece of the same section Mahogany as a guide, with a piece screwed on to overhang the radius block as you feed it through. That will stop it lifting. 2. The head diameter in mm is, as near as dammit, the gauge of the screw. 8mm dia head = 8 gauge screw.
You know that radiusing a fretboard with a handplane, leveling beam and radius gauges takes about 20 minutes, right? :-) The thing to consider with table saws is where does the shrapnel fly. You weren't directly on the line and your hands were so far, that they weren't likely to hit the blade, should the piece have become a projectile. The things table saws do when used creatively are always sudden and unexpected, so the only way to be safe is to stay away from the disaster area. Blade fragments can of course take a ricochet and fly pretty much any direction, so it is good to try to avoid creating any.
Jesus broke the power of hell on the cross and opened the only way to meet God. If you believe in Jesus, he becomes a child of God and he will receive and enjoy all the blessings of heaven. The Holy Spirit will always be with you. Believe in Jesus. He is the light of life and the Creator God.
Hi Susan, your New jig is very interesting !!! Thank's for sharing !!!
I do so enjoy watching you.and your Enginuity.because i am the same way.i beleave theres always a way to achieve your goal.and most people would give up before attempting to try to use that much brain power and energy. I admire that your a woman with that much spunk.my hats off to you hun
This is the kind of gem video that makes me keep coming back to TH-cam. 💙
I love this...Great work!
One thing I think I would change, however, would be instead of the channels in the sides, cut dados into the sides of the block and have rails that the block slides on. They would always be a consistent height and it wouldn't matter if your table is smooth. Also, if the rails are a little raised, it would keep your block from getting lifted up by router dust that collects on the table.
+Chris Shenar That's a great idea!
A smiling tool maker woman always makes my day. Great project👍
Cutting a cove on a table saw is very acceptable if you have the right (side cutting or 'planer') blade and do not force the piece. I worked in a pattern shop at a wood box and crate shop, and the old Oliver table saw had a fence that you could skew for just this purpose. With a couple finger boards and your wits about you, some very nice crown mouldings could be made!
Thanks for the information. When I make a couple of these I think I will cut the blanks several inches longer (4 to 6 inches) than needed, so that I can easily feed it through from one side only. Once I reach the desired length of radius-ed material I can then use the chop saw to cut it to length. This should keep my fingers safe at the expensive of a bit of scrape wood.
You are amazing. Thank you for sharing. Keep up the precise work.
The wood you used for your blocks is more beautiful than the one they used to build my guitars XD
Seen a video of a guy putting a radius on his fretboard bye swinging the fret board instead of the router router was stationary homade worked really well
Hi Sue, it is now time to make yourself a CNC router. Lots of fun and noise.😀
Well done, good work!
Wood be a good idea to invest in a 2nd same model router, with all the time spent making the gigs. Good effort, clever,!
Ok, having watched, I don't have the tools or skill to do this, but I really enjoyed watching you do it, nonetheless! Thank you, Susan, very enjoyable
Wonderful work!
Another great video. That set up with the table saw is fine for doing concave cuts, I made some boxes that looked like Books and for the page part of the box I used this method but I did have a fence each side of the work piece, as long as you're confidant with what you're doing go for it.
Going back to the Guitar neck / headstock joint I didn't know you were going to split it and put the veneers in it, a very nice touch, and added strength, perhaps a finger joint would have been a bit OTT
That's amazing.. but if you placed the router upside-down so it follows the curve of any gauges (adjustable), you directly make a fretboard..
nice result! and a nice idea! when drilling in the wood you better increase the revolution speed of your screw machine. it improves the result of your holes and it puts less force on your drill bit. in general the smaller the drill the higher the speed.
Another cracking video!
Nice work! I would have thought the jig to hold the router could have been done much more simply by screwing the base of the machine to a piece of plywood in the same way you would attach the router to a router table, instead of making a plywood cradle thing which clamps the router in place, but your method worked well anyway, so well done!
+SoundsToBlowYourMind The base plate would have needed to be thin, and I couldn't see how I could have made it rigid without extending a bit beyond the base of the router. This would have been tricky for a 9" radius block as the extra bits would get in the way
Excellent job. A thought: since you have those nice semi circles already cut into the full length, why not cut a dowel that’s close to the arc of the handholds an cut it/plane it and then attach it to the two side guides. It would go a long way to keeping your fingers out of harm’s way and help the piece stay centered vertically as you cut. No jumping up during the cut. Seems like an easy mod. Add some paste wax for easing the neck blocks through.
sei bravissima, apprezzo davvero molto i tuoi video, hai un nuovo fan italiano-
voce faz ums trabalho muito lindo parabens!
Clever girl! I was just watching another channel's video about homemade radius blocks but he had the router laying down on it's side which made it all very awkward and so it made me think: "Why not just mount it somehow like a pendulum?" ...and then I found you! I subbed...great job!
Swap out the bit in your counter sink for a slightly smaller one. The counter sink will be a little off, but the smaller bit will give more grab.
Nice work ,love your design ,dont forget; wood moves when its milled or cut check for twists and out of square regularly even as time passes wood will move, apart from a piece of maple ive cut it has blunted everything i have apart from a grinder, my spoke shave hates its spintery guts so do i ,dreading fret time.,
You do a very pretty job, congratulations!
Congrats! What a patience and a good skill! :-)
I bought a sanding block off e bay but built all my guitars with flat fingerboards and solid bat truss rods.
Hahaha.... I like the way you make a video. You are funnny
HA! Very Cool! lol I may make some ! Im thinking I may make an A frame that way could eliminate the horizontal boom that maybe can flex and would center the weight... and maybe no need for all the extra clamping but video is really a great idea! which also gives me an idea .... You could use the A frame and mount router below and make a fretboard compound radius jig... :D by mounting the neck upside down on the pendulum
Since there is only a limited area available for holding the workpiece down between the fences, wouldn't it be helpful to make spring-loaded rollers for before and after the router zone to keep downward pressure constantly applied to the workpiece?
The other thing I note is that your workbench does not appear to be rock solid, which is undesirable for this category of operation.
Very clever! What kind of router bit did you use?
15 degrees or 15" radius for us Americans? I think you said 15 inches but that would be a pretty tight radius? It seems like a lot of work but you will have some nice sanding blocks when through.
Are you aiming to be the British Izzy Swan? Cracking work.
Very nice router jig! However, I would consider the pre-routing work unnecessary. Imagine a visibly ”non-square” piece of wood. As long as the router does its job, shouldn’t the sanding block do its job just fine? How would the squareness of the other three sides matter? Nice job, though!
You can make a Radius Block on the Table saw . The same way you did the sides.
Don't think that saw will take a 381mm radius (762mm/30 inch diameter) blade.
No your angle of timber to blade will determine the radius of the
An idea I just came up with:
you could leave a small rail on both sides of the radius block you're making and an equally sized hole on the woods that keep it in place. You would then put the block between them so they couldn't move upwards or downwards. Then, after you're finished with routing the radius you could saw the rails off the block.
Or would that be too elaborate, time consuming and complicated? Did anyone understand what I mean?
Are you related to Heath Robinson? Great video, love watching to see how you get round problems, can't wait for the next video, and to see that beautiful guitar completed!
For a hold down how about a brush like feather board of sorts.
One talented gal...
Nicely done, very clever and the make it yourself spirit is admirable. If one had to buy all of the materials like the plywood and hardware etc. how much would it cost in your location. Crimson Guitar sells the 12 inch blocks for 16 pounds?
+Tom duffy the crimson blocks would be £42 for the 2. I guess the materials might have cost £20 if I had to buy everything individually. They were all part of bulk buys though so I guess I paid £10?
Good deal in that case plus the bonus of subject matter for another enjoyable video, win win I would say.
Good job, what router bit size did you use? Looks like straight flute. I got jig that was made by MARK KIRKWOOD, he still has a TH-cam video about it if you curious, but think he is off the grid, not bad but had to make adjustments even though using same trim router he says he designed it for but it sits too loose in cradle.
It was a 1/2” bit, straight flute, but more importantly the end is flat
Great 😁👏👏👏
So if you cut a radius in side why can’t you just do the same for the bottom???
You made it ....digits all accounted..wheeewww!
+Scott Moates I've become quite attached to my fingers :-)
Hopefully your fingers will remain firmly attached to you!
Also, That radius (12") What guitars typically would be using that radius? Thanks
Gibson les paul has a 12" fretboard radius
By the time you made it, you could’ve just ordered one from Stewmac and had it arrive by ship! Now you gotta do your fret job!!
And pay a fortune at StewMac..Not worth it.
Susie, you are a real inspiration, I really love the finished blocks, they are so cool with the handle channel on the side. I've never built a radius sanding block but I was planning to and I was going to do it all on the table saw. I thought it could be done that way, is there a reason it can't?
+Buddy Martin I've seen DKG Custom make a radius block on a table saw. You have to make a sled that pivots around a pivot point below the level of the table
Thanks Susie, I took a few looks here and there and it seems like your jig is probably easier and quicker and ya gotta admit, it sure does the job! Thank you... Buddy
thank you Susan . question please what wood for the radius blocks did you use ? also why 12 " and 15 " radius ? is the 12 " for the headstock end and the 15 " for the sound hole end ?
I created the 12” for a future electric build. I’ve not used it yet. The wood is sapele
thank you
What sort of wood did you make the blocks out of?
Great job, Susie, you've inspired me to make my own! Curious how you're going to affix the sandpaper to them (double face tape?) so it's replaceable, but that'll probably be covered in a future video. SO proud of the parlour guitar restoration videos, I've watched everyone as I'm recouping from a shoulder replacement. Love the honest style of your videos...wish I could clean up with a snap of my fingers!
+Larry Sauriol I'll either use masking tape and superglue or I might use spray contact adhesive as it might be easier to get them flat.
thank you . good build . question please what wood did you use for the sanding blocks ?
+Walter Rider mahogany
Susan Gardener Do you sell these blocks? Kindly let me know.
Cheers and great work! Dave.
I don’t. Sorry
@@SusanGardener Pity! Cheers, Dave.
Why not turn the hinge mechanism upside down and route the radius directly on the fretboard?
Some people have done that but I think it needs a more sophisticated level of engineering to produce a reliable finish. Ebony fretboards aren’t cheap items if you need to start again!
+Susan Gardener
I would assume the result would be quite comparable to the ones you get in this video. Sure, it would need some touch up with sandpaper to level out the router marks, but otherwise it should be fine if one chooses sensible feed rates. Quite right though, sanding, although slower, is less risky.
Loving it!! great work
"Where's the bloke?" (Harry and Paul reference)
I admire you for your desicatwment in building your own tools and the attention to detail you put in this, but wouldn't you have been better off buying those sanding blocks? I paid 15€ for mine at rall guitars here in germany
th-cam.com/video/UKWIZM9aI5Y/w-d-xo.html#t=23m28s
Sanding blocks are not cheap..At least with this way,you can make several blocks of the same radius with different lengths and cost you fraction of the price.
$10 on ali express
@@phatthand so for 9 blocks,it will cost 90.00..What is the length?..By making your own, it will cost about 10.00 for 9..You can do it even cheaper because you can have 2 Radius' on one block..It may not be worth it if you have to purchase a router and router bit..Once the jig is made,you can make those blocks at any time..That's the way I see it anyway.
@@shawnmanuel9817 I was only replying to the guy who pays 15€. $10 Cdn. is about half that.
try keeping your super glue in the fridge it prolongs its shelf life
If I didn't know better, I would swear you're one of my wife's friends sister. Exact same personality, you two could damn near pass as twins.
Can you sell me a 9.5" radius block?
Soo whats the math used to determine a 12" radius?
+Edad Martin not much maths really - it's simply 12" between the pivot and the cutter tip
Good Susan. A woman who makes things............where have you been all my life? I know, for most of it you weren't born!!!!
One suggestion, one point of information; 1. Use a piece of the same section Mahogany as a guide, with a piece screwed on to overhang the radius block as you feed it through. That will stop it lifting. 2. The head diameter in mm is, as near as dammit, the gauge of the screw. 8mm dia head = 8 gauge screw.
Where's the fun in buying ready-made? Much more satisfaction from DIY. Could you have suspended your router rig from your go-bar clamping frame?
+Myk Hough the go-bar frame wouldn't have been solid enough
Great DIY engineering but please move your scissors and screw driver before you start machining, I know you get excited when the end result is close
For Pete's sake, put the drill in the faster gear when drilling.
By god, FIRST!
You know that radiusing a fretboard with a handplane, leveling beam and radius gauges takes about 20 minutes, right? :-) The thing to consider with table saws is where does the shrapnel fly. You weren't directly on the line and your hands were so far, that they weren't likely to hit the blade, should the piece have become a projectile. The things table saws do when used creatively are always sudden and unexpected, so the only way to be safe is to stay away from the disaster area. Blade fragments can of course take a ricochet and fly pretty much any direction, so it is good to try to avoid creating any.
You seem to have a thing for using you router in inappropriate ways :-)
Do tou think 7 hours selling lemonade woild have paid for the sading vlocks?😂
+Saïan Cantin I'd have probably been arrested for selling lemonade. This was more fun anyway
Do you have a never ending supply of M&S gift cards you use to spread glue ? ;-)
+Andrew Powell it's just the one gift card. Maybe time to switch to a Tesco Clubcard :-)
Nice, it's good to see woman do these things. They're mostly dudes 🤓
am i the only one who thinks is that she is He in real,or at least used to be...?
No you are not. But what does it matter?
To be honest, I don't care. I'm here for the information, not to hook up.
Jesus broke the power of hell on the cross and opened the only way to meet God. If you believe in Jesus, he becomes a child of God and he will receive and enjoy all the blessings of heaven. The Holy Spirit will always be with you. Believe in Jesus. He is the light of life and the Creator God.
You know that you can buy these things for about $15....right? I saw a guy make his own toothpicks once.,