Atari Paperboy Arcade Repair - Fuse block, new connectors, AR-III resistor, and molex connector
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In this video we will replace the following on our Atari Paperboy arcade game: Fuse Block, burnt resistor on the AR-III power supply, molex connector with trifurcon connectors on the video PCB. The voltage on my games is not staying a consistent 5V. Could it be the big blue? Lets see if we can fix the game in this video. - เกม
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I love how John always enters the garage through the side door although the actual garage door is open lmao, been watching him since the Gyruss restore and this man never gets old. Kudos to John!
i didn't watch the whole video through so maybe you figured this out but here goes. the resistor you pointed to r20 i believe? the job of that resistor is to control the base of your 3055 transistors which turns on the 10.3v line just enough to create 5v. long story short test or replace both of your 3055 transistors.
John mentioned your pi position pcb at 1hr 5 minutes. Thank you for the pi position.
Resistors almost never burn up... ever. Transistors almost always burn up and then they short circuit(why, who knows?). Guaranteed you have a transistor that has shorted and now your resistor is taking one for the team.
Monday afternoon here in the uk. Just finished work and a new video appears. Monday’s aren’t all that bad after all !
Finally a new episode. Keep 'em coming John.
This is an instance where you need one of those thermal cameras to see what was getting hot.
hell yeah new vid!
It's a bummer that Zoo Keeper died but look at it from the bright side. Now you have more stuff to fix and record so we can enjoy your vids :D
love that old school john's videos. Welcome back mate!
Just trying to help.
Love your videos just because you go so in-depth into fixing arcade machines..
And you explain everything.
And no other channels do that.
Mad respect.
And maybe if my finances and wishes coalesce with each other and I can get into the hobby..
Fingers crossed..
Oh well..
So glad you're back.
From John Sweda & Russell Hogenson discussion;
I checked the circuit diagram from Russell and with your 3V output may indicate the 2N3055 pair are not being B-E biased enough to produce 5V.
Check your 15V on the AR-III board - regulator 7815.
R20 2.7Ω 1W resistor is close and not 100Ω plus.
Spray can air on TIP32 transistor to cool - see if over heating
LM305 not producing enough current to forward bias the TIP32 transistor to turn on the 2N3055.
I have had old regulators die and shutdown under load.
Check R32 for in-spec, a positive short on your video board could kill R32 and then provide no ground for LM305 to operate properly.
Video quality is excellent ! It’s truly a good idea to have bought a used camera of the same model as your first one :)
Thanks for the video, always a pleasure.
Touch your probes together to find their resistance then subtract that from your reading of the resistors.
Another classic video. Love the trips to the Traeger!
Thanks for a new episode, John 🤘
Glad to see you back and working on your lineup.
a nice mix of arcade and some cooking, nice. Thx John for the content.
Glad to have you back John
Love your videos
Thanks for doing everything slow and detailed, very helpful.
I’m so glad John’s Arcade is back!
I got that same crimper set! I used it to wire up the buttons in my arcade stick. Worked super great, very easy, despite some dodgy reviews online
There are 2 molex pins each for +5v and Gnd, usually rated at 5A each. With bad connects, you play round-robin which pin decides to carry the predominate current load. Each taking its turn to overheat and cook and oxidize and get worse over time. You want equivalent resistance across both wire-connector pairs to equally share the load. Sound like a cascade failure, one pin too much resistance causing the second pin to overload and fail; resulting in the sense line becoming the main power line then pulling too much current through the shunt resistor and over heating.
You may want to measure the voltage drop between AR-III board and video board both for both +5V and Gnd lines separately. I believe you only changed the single connector on the video board.
*EXTRA* The LM305 op-amp regulator maybe defective. I don't know if this component was replaced in last year's video. The +5v power appears to be going into a thermal shutdown. The 2N3055 power transistor would just cook itself if going over 8A load. Note: some list transistor max current as 15A, 115W heat dissipation. I think you would cook other passive components before killing the TO-3 transistors again.
You may want to validate the video board with a spare stand alone +5V switch mode output to see if the board will operate. There is a long chance the traces have been cooked and there is excessive resistance providing power around the board chips. If it works then the board is good. You may want to see what current pull the video board requires (3, 5, 8, 10, 10+).
Two: validate your voltage drop from AR board to video board. Remember there are three paths for each +5v and Gnd connectors and should be tested independently with test loads (eg. 1157 or 1156 automotive light bulbs - approx 2A @ 7.2V) or doing a resistance test.
An Arcade Jason crossover episode needs to happen. He can also help you fix some stuff that’s down :)
So good to have you back John.....
Sure, those '80s videos would apply today, but now they lack some things, like how to replace an original game board that you have a hard time keeping a good copy of alive with an FPGA version, or how to replace a Laserdisc player or a hard disk or tape drive/player with flash storage, or how to make your modern-day high-score saver, etc. So that's why it's great that we have your videos here that show us the modern tips and tricks!
Randy Fromm just started doing 2hr live video meetings everyday Saturday. You can jump in and ask your monitor questions and he will help you live. He has posted them on TH-cam so you can watch the old ones. It’s in its infancy so not many people know about it. Great chance to get some expert advice if you need it. If I recall it’s every 2pm California time.
Awesome, thanks for the heads up. I’m still barely dipping my feet into this, but I hope to learn enough to dive into the hobby confidently.
Glad you’re back!
Happy to see you John.
Right on new stuff keep it up only thing looking forward to in the pandemic!
It's so nice to see him back.
I love all the BBQ footage bro. It's a nice change of pace between gaming segments. I'm learning how to smoke meats...on a small scale right now using my Weber Go Anywhere mini charcoal grill with various hardwoods smoldering off to one side. Its a delicious hobby.
John's word of the day... Slick!
These are always edited so well
Welcome back
"that's slick" - John, moments before he calls the kids outside "whippersnappers"
and tells them to get off his lawn :-)
Bought some on your recommendation. Thanks
JOHHHNS ARRRRCAAAADE!!!!! 🎶🎶🎸🎸
We have a Qix that had all sorts of intermittent issues most of which went away after resoldering the interconnects. And lol ours also has a cordless phone battery to save scores :-D. I also had connection issues with the RESET from the power supply.
Our Paperboy monitor turns off after about 5 hours on hot days. I put two fans inside the case, it still happens, but it takes longer to happen. It seems to go into HV protection. Need to measure +B some time.
Hi John
Take the resistor out and check the continuity where the legs of the resistor solder in.
Then without the power on reinstall the power supply with all the connectors plugged in, then check the continuity again and see if theirs a short between the two points again with the resistor removed.
You have more experience with this than me but are their any diodes on the power supply?
Anyway it is a tough one and Im just throwing it out there.
Good luck and it's great to see you back.
One other thing, just for the sake of it you should try changing the switching power supply and try it with a new resistor.
I was cracking up watching this. The crimper is exactly like the ratcheting crimper you used before for the Molex pins (just cheaper). In fact, I use one just like this one for my Molex pins. You figured it out eventually, but I was laughing until then. :) You should also check out the "solder seal wire connectors" with the clear heat shrink and color band on them. You use a heat gun (no lighter) to solder and heat shrink in one move. They're game changers.
I have the same crimper set and was laughing my ass off when he kept dropping the pin. I did the same thing when I first used mine, it took me a second to figure out that I had to squeeze the pin a little thin insert the wire.
Yeah... it was comical because it did work exactly the same as the molex crimper. LOL. I noticed this too. DUMBIE .
I was thinking the same thing. Just like the old ones!
What you do is you put the terminal in the crimper. Then you barely crimp down, just enough to hold the terminal in place. Then you put the wire in and then finish crimping down all of the way.
Welcome to the world of owning proper crimping tools =)
Hang in there, my man. It all gets done...just not all at the same time. :)
John where do you purchase the $1.00 volt meter that you can leave in the back of your cabinet? Or what is the name of the device.
I would crimp those ends on and the for good measure a bit of solder I use these at work and have done 1000’s and sometimes the crimp is just not enough to hold. Randy Fromm has recently been adding monitor seminars on TH-cam definitely worth watching
Are you going to fix the space ball? I see the screen is having vertical issues during viewer mail.
Thanks for the videos, John! When a scripted TV show fails to resolve its plot, its called SUSPENSE. Same rule applies here!
John, please come back. I miss you and your videos.
Here before the comments turn into a mess
Poor John, Paperboy with the goddamn resistor is still not fixed. Zoo Keeper is down, oww man. 😳 At least the meat looks really good. Cheers!
John, I guess you don't exactly remember what was done on the regulator/audio III PCB assembly and your power brick. That makes it a bit more difficult. I would resolder (not just reflow) a bunch of connections, especially that voltage regulator (round thing with bunch of connections, LM 305 at Q5). The fact that the voltage starts to drop after a little bit of time could be a failing transistor or diode (check for shorts too). If you never did it, replace/test bridge rectifier at the power brick). There are two big diodes under your Big Blue in your power brick assembly as well (hope you checked it). Do you remember removing and testing (or replacing) the two bottle cap transistors (2N3055)? If they are original, just replace them.
I would check the voltages without the motherboard, so you will know the voltage at the source. To further bulletproof your power boards I would recommend to replace (or at least resolder) the Molex connectors on all of your power boards. You know all this stuff, but sometimes the mind just slips, especially if you were busy with other stuff for a long while. The Molex pins part number: 02-09-1134 for the female connectors www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0002091134/26394 (hope you have a Molex removal tool).
This is the time you could really use a FLIR camera. I recommended it a while back for your machines, including ones at the location. You could find problems before they cause any major damage. They have some that you can attach to your cellphone and use the screen as a display.
Some people do the "Sense mod", but I do not recommend it. Good luck.
OMG NEW VID!
Man those resisters like going out on you there John. But keep up the good work with the videos.
If resistors keep going out then the fault is elsewhere.
@@Okurka. yes it's coming from somewhere else on the pcb. I'm just wondering if john should trace where it's coming from. Since did smell this one. And confirm that indeed it went drastically out of dec.
Watching you crimp that connector makes me want to drink!!! :)
Your board is pulling more current that that resistor can handle, so replace it again and put your meter in line and measure the current drawn. What is on that 5v is it just the game board, Jay tested your board so could it be something else on the 5v line. Are the other voltages ok or does the whole PSU shut down.
I think the wavy Sanyo needs a new filter capacitor. As you know, these aren't included in normal cap kits. I have fixed several monitors doing this with new filter caps.
This was my assessment as well...measuring the b+ is a good start and once set to 108v if problem persists, check the filter cap as you said
I had a dream that I was at Johns arcade last night. I ended up staying the night with some friends and in the morning I tried to walk home amd got lost.
Me too!!! What a coincidence!!!
Which one of you broke Zookeeper?
Hey John, you mentioned you bought a new/used video camera, which one did you get for recording the video?
Bring Arcade Outsiders back!
Oh and I literally changed EVERY cap and resistor on my DK3 chassis and the sound board also think my Tube is going because I cant get it stop the Halo effect. BTW John if you have a extra tube i can buy off you Id LOVE it
Hay Jon since the guy that was working on your Firefox laser disk player passed on.
Could you swap it out with a another laser disk player like you did on dragons lair?
Just curious.
Hi John, if you got a minute can you tell me which instrument(s) you played on Don't Feel? Was it written by you exclusively? Its such a great song!
Hey John, whats that ARIII doing again? Works for a few seconds then smokes a resistor, right? I just fixed an ARIII that was doing the same thing, I can still smell the smoke! LOL! Anyway, it was one of the 3055's. I just replaced both of them and the 2.7 ohm resistor and its all good now.
I feel your pain...
But looking forward to the next video..
And the end of the year Jon basement end of the year Bonanza..
Sounds like a short drawing current. You could try buying a 2.7 Ohm 5W resistor which are available provided you have the room to mount it. That resistor might get hot but should dissipate the excess heat.
What type of camera did you get john ?.. the video looks awesome!
If the battery is low in the meter, it could affect the reading of resistance. 2.7 ohms, 3.3 ohms both resistors.
can you post a link to that crimp connector kit from Amazon? it looks like a nice one.
Hey John, maybe if if you have repaired a arcade put a paper journal in the arcade. It can remind you when en what you did on the arcade. And if the resistor is getting hot, something in the line is asking a lot of current,for instance a shortage.
You should try crimping 2.54mm JST connectors.
You can tin the wire to add beef or fold back to double the wire thickness.
Good crimpers have stepped dies - smaller for the bare wire, and larger for the insulated wire.
You may want to use needle nose to start the curl as crimp ends tend to be a v shaped u channel.
Find the crimp *ratchet release* that will come in handy for the FUBAR starts; misaligned - too deep, too shallow, wrong way, wrong side.
You can also double crimp; start with the big size, then move the next smaller size to tighten the crimp grip.
Note: Your first few successful attempts - it fell off! $#|&!
*Extra tip:* Mark the wire side, and the back/open side for the connector (back is flat, and open side has a divot). It sure beats staring at your crimpers for minutes every-time you pick them up again.
Have you checked the voltage regulator on the power brick
John and his wiggly tables.
I thought you removed the voltage device from the board, how did you see the voltage reading during your second attempt at plugging it in. 47:41
There is a LED lighting up on the video board when it receives 5v. The led wasn't lit once the game was switched back on so John knew that there was no 5v sent to the board :=)
Replace the resistor again, if your video board receives power then you know that it was that resistor that burnt up. No idea why it's doing it though, so good luck with that. :)
Sorry about your Zookeeper John. That’s my wife’s current favorite. Hope you get both it and Paperboy going again soon.
Hard not to notice your pong, “space Ball” monitor looks like on its way out too. ☹️
Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the ar3 try to compensate low voltage by ramping up the output...if it ramps up too crazy that resistor will start to burn.
This was a well-known source of trouble with the SENSE circuit on the AR-1 and AR-2 board. It's supposed to be fixed on AR-3 like this one and not to be an issue anymore.
Check the schematics and part list for the wattage and type needed for that resistor. May need higher wattage....
Check your resistance on your meter leads, what watt resistor did you put in, it looked a 1/4 watt, it should be 1watt accordingly to manaul. This resistor is part of the 10v to 5v reg.
ay dude we're in the fuckin' basement fixin bicycle news kid game
Maybe that power supply (i think) that is attached to the side of the cab is messed up
Always fun
Awesome 💖💖💖💖
Could have been dust burning off you think?
Listen to the Game store guy podcast on the VGO app
John I think you should have just replaced all the spade connectors on the transformer while you were at it that way it's all new and there's nothing that could be a issue
New Video on a Monday!!! :)
*Measure your lead resistance!!!*
You can have up to or more then 2Ω on bad leads caused by oxidation or lead length.
The component leads will also have oxidation.
Your percentage error is most when measuring small values.
You didn’t check what the resistance of your test leads was when you were measuring the resistance of the resistor ;)
That´s SLICK!!!! :-)
My F3 fuse on my Pole Position blows every couple days. New fuse holder is on order.
I would have gotten the terminals that were tin plated. Just to help prevent corrosion, etc.
During viewer mail it looks like Space Ball is having issues as well!
*"Chef John"* - Burnt ends and burnt resistors - Yum Yum Yum...
John, my man, SWITCHER... If you are going to continue to fight with that ARIII you also need to move that fan to the correct spot otherwise the supply will burn up.
You really want a metal oxide or ceramic resistor in that position and what I said before heavy wattage 3 to 4 Watts.
It's ok testing in the holder as long as you test the fuse! and not the holder terminals! it's worth checking the terminals as well because that can tell you there's an issue.
You should check the the fuses and don't just assume they are correct valuers and fast or slow blow is correct.
Always solder your terminals to your fuse block push-on connector on terminals can cause problems better to solder the terminal connectors.
You put the terminal on the wrong way the spiky end of of the crimper has to go against the folding part of of the connector not the other way around.
you need to follow the circuitry from the resistor into the game board something is pulling it down to ground shorting it out. Could be on the power supply or on the board check the power supply first circuitry from that resistor. I can't really see but the resistor looks like goes to the gate to the power transistor something there is pulling it down could be the transistor or shorted capacitor
You might find John getting some connectives polymer and dipping the ROM chips and putting it in the sockets would help has the same connectivity as copper you might have corroded pins sockets tarnished if there's silver use silver dip or the stuff has a funny cloth in the tin
I was just going through the schematic and noticed that R20, R21, R28 and R32 are all 2.7ohms at 1 watt. Since I am not able to upload a photo on here I will show the areas I mean in a screen shot here. prnt.sc/v8d4j7 The areas I am referring to are in the red square boxes. I was able to find the schematics here: archive.org/details/paperboysp-2751stprinting/page/n2/mode/2up
@@hogenshero8042 I'm not sure which resistor it is, the one that's heating up! but the DR8 diode could be the culprit if that is sorted then the transistor will be going into a short causing extra draw on the resistor John check the diode next to the resistor and the transistor, if that's the same on the diagram or could be one of the capacitors leaking current even if they've been replaced and measure correctly
@@johnsweda2999 CR8 (on Russell provided diagram) is not shorted. If it were every chip on the video board would see 10V and puff. Open diode not likely, requires reverse inductive spike and every chip puff again. The diode is a spike killer to protect the 2N3055 pair. John was seeing 3V so the transistor pair are not being B-E biased enough to produce 5V.
@@cbaxter6527 yes the transistors not seeing these correct voltage but I'm not sure about if the diode is faulty it would see 10 volts, it would go to ground so I don't think it would see 10 volts necessarily but causing a current flow on the resistor. something causing current flow on that resistor what do you think it is? I suppose John should measure the current flow on the resistor and see what it is and the voltage either side of the transistor. I didn't see that circuit diagram my browser said it was dangerous so I didn't proceed only the sketch, look at the sketch and one side of the diode is + 5 The Other Side is +15 not sure where you're getting 10 volts from.
Why not just get a Flir camera? Seems like that would put an end to the "what part is burning?" question.
More resistance on a power connector should not cause a resistor to burn up. Something is pulling more amps than it should. AKA shorting to ground, AKA less resistance than normal.
That's a bummer about paperboy, seems like your so close but it's just a small thing that's stopping it from working
Why is that resistor smoking? He's addicted, man! Those damn tobacco companies! :)
"That's slick"
Hay just a heads up.
You might be having a problem with pong..
It's at the 1:00 time the screen starts glitching out..
And it happened a few times.
It's not pong but Computer Space balls (a fairly rare clone of pong :=)). And yes there are signs of vertical collapse. The monitor on this game desperately needs a capkit seems as i noticed it's been acting like this during the previous videos too :=)