For 3 years, I have endured rubbing front disc brake. Lots of useless advise led me to change: pads; rotor; mineral oil and bleed; calliper. My local bike shop couldn't resolve (in fact made it worse!). I even bought new wheels (not because of rubbing) which had the exact same problem. 3 minutes of watching your video, and I thought 'heck, let's try this'. 15 minutes later, problem was resolved! Thank you so much for such a clear, simple solution!
Brilliant! Going nuts trying to fix my dragging brake pads. Tried to exercise the pistons again and again to no avail. Removing excess fluid solved the problem immediately. In hindsight, the brake lever was very tight and a sign that the fluid had expanded. I don't know why other videos aren't showing this, but thanks a bunch.
Finally fixed after trying the last step of soaking up a small amount expanded of fluid. No more rubbing after centering, lubing the pistons, repeat, and repeat. Thanks!!
Great, video! It is amazing how many cycling channels do not cover this. They generally just talk about a bent disk or centering the caliper. again great video, very informative and simple to follow.
Was a little intimidated working on hydraulic brakes for the first time, your video was to the point and very informative. Thanks! All working well now.
Great video. So many videos out there that basically teach you to center your brakes. this one helped me diagnose and fix a rubbing pad that was driving me crazy. thank you!!!!
Huge thanks. I was trying to resolve brake squeal but after cleaning and scuffing the pads 3 times, I found the pistons were not moving equally. One was almost stuck. I guess the imbalance of piston pressure to the pads and rotor was causing the squealing. Followed your instructions and the piston eventually worked together in equal movement. Took it out for a test and voila. They no longer squeal.
Thank you very much for the tip about too much pressure in the system. Had very little clearance on some new pads and was finding it very hard to get the calipers centred well enough to stop all rub. Just did as you said and bled off a little fluid and all is right with the world again.
you prolly dont care at all but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an instagram account? I was dumb lost my password. I love any assistance you can offer me
@Jacoby Alfredo thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Brilliant video, right to the point ! Very well explained and shown ! Thank you so much, excess pressure was the problem for me, fixed thanks to you :)
Thank you so much Clint. After trying out about 20 other videos all of which suggested the same solutions of straightening the caliper, truing the rotors etc etc, yours was the first and only one that suggested relieving a few drops of mineral oil from the system. This solution immediately solved the problem on my Canyon CFR running Campag Super Record EPS and it was quick and easy for me to do. Quality content from knowledgeable people like yourself is hard to find out there in a sea of repetition and ineffective solutions purveyed by so many others. I’ve sent a super thanks your way. Thank you 🙏
Gonna hit this again. Noticed you mentioned pushing them about 6x..haven't heard that before but have endless rubby and also squashy underpowered brakes (deore xt). Also been through the mill trying all options, convinced it was a stuck pad issue but only cycled them once or twice. ...I'll be back shortly (as big Clive would say)😄
Relatively new Tarmac… tried everything… and the solution was your last step. Bleeding them a bit gave me enough gap to finally end the rubbing. Thanks!
Thank you for this great tutorial. I'm confused about you mentioned Di2 specific fluid. Doesn't the regular Shimano mineral oil works for Ultegra BR-R8070's?
Thanks! I had to lube up the piston and push it in and out until it slid smoothly and release the pressure in the tube a bit and that fixed it! Lol that sounded a bit wrong tho
Thank you SO much for this video, Clint. You are a cycling demi-God. Had a stuck piston and tried all the suggestions in other videos and nothing worked until i back-bled the system. Piston popped right back in. Question: I've obviously got water in the brake system now. Is that an indication to bleed the affected brake?
If you have not bled the brakes in every year then I would do a bleed. However, if you just don't have the tools to do it, you could wait and see if you have that problem again.
Cool and useful video. I am curious about this little pad centering tool you show at the end. Can you provide a reference on it - brand, store, etc. Sounds useful to have.
I have the tool myself, it is good quality but...it's squared at the top edge, so if your using narrow rotors (SRAM for example use narrower than Shimano) it's not going to be sitting flush on the ring. I love the look of the tool but they should have rounded the top instead of square folding it. I tend to use a thick sheet of paper each side instead just for accuracy (paper is pretty accurate lol)
great, did NOT know that but this vid is NOT helpfull for Mtb brake levers, sure calipers are the same but drop bar brake/shift levers are waaaaay different from straight bar mtb brake levers....BUT, now that i know what needs to be done i can find a Mtb specific diy vid😊❤
The video addressed the issue I was having with a new bike build, which was excessive hydraulic fluid in my front brake line. Thank you Clint for your clear explanation!
Hi ! Hoping someone can help , my breaks/ ( not hydrolic) my rear pads and my disk are getting extreamly hot , set of on my comuute this morning and I could lock up the rear wheel however on the way home my rear brakes were about as effective as a peice of chocolate , bit confused got new pads and rotor on the way but need to commute for a week, any tips?
The removal of a little brake fluid did the trick for me. Try first without pushing the pistons back, this was sufficient for me. Pushing the pistons back may reduce the breaking pressure too much.
Thank you! I tried everything to push disks between new pads after replacement. Was ready to mess with bleeding screws... So, you saved my sram breaks! :)
4 years later and this video finally ended hours of frustration trying to get my caliper centered. Apparently my grx brakes were over pressurized despite following the shimano manual to the T. Thank you!
you ever have the issue where everything's centered perfect when spinning or riding straight but when turning or standing/climbing the wheeling rotor flex (while off the brakes) and the rotor pushes over into the pads (while they are still aligned perfectly)
Yes. That usually happens when there is not enough space between the pad and rotor and a little bit of flex will cause the pads to rub. Do the method of relieving some pressure out of the system like a show in this video and it may work for that.
Good vid thank you. I had to go thru this procedure after a buddy of mine decided to squeeze my left lever with the bike on the repair stand and the wheel removed....took a while to push the pistons back but the plastic levers did the biz.
Is it necessary to remove the brake pads? Seems like you can push in the pistons while the pads on still on. I have 2-piston Shimano XT brakes. And thank you for this.
Great video! One thing I would recommend is checking the rotor to make sure it is warped / bent. Just look straight down at it between the pads while spinning.
Very helpful. I have new Shimano XTs and rotors and they were dragging. I went thru you list of remedies and found loosening the mounts to center the rotor was the answer. I just flipped over the bike and spun the wheels to feel for vibration between the rotor and pads as I incrementally tightened the mounts., I had to do it by feel since they are so close I couldn't see the gap and clenching the brake levers down and retightening the mounts wasn't fixing it.
My mtb has been sitting from just this issue. Went to put new pads on, and the new pads would rub the rotor. Not sure what I did, but when I let a little fluid out and I lost pressure in my brake lever. LBS will save the day!
Thanks a lot for the excellent explanation and demonstration! I’ve got excessive pressure in my system , but I was afraid to open a bleeding port because I thought the whole bleeding process will then be required and I do not have tools or a good service shop where I live… so I fixed my brakes in a few seconds after watching this video 🤌 thanks!
When braking and the bike is not moving is it normal that the Rotor is moving when pressing the brake im using a hydraulic brake also the brake pads are aligned well or this is normal?
There are times when one pad will contact the rotor first and move it slightly side to side. The main thing is that the pads do not rub the rotor when not pressing the brake lever. If that’s the case, then it’s all right.
Thanks! Went from cool and dry, to warm and humid. Pads were DRAGGING this morning. Quick watch of this video and 20 mins later I was ready to roll! Thanks again! (note, wish i could have tipped more, but no option beyond $2)
Didnt help, Sram SUCKS! cannot get the piston to push back in. FYI if your looking for brakes get shimano, I never had this problem until I got a bike with SRAM components.
I tried it on my bike and the rubbing is gone! The only problem is that one of the pistons is still slightly pushed out more but the caliper seems very centered. Does anyone know what's the problem? Thanks
Great video. Thank you. Are you using tyre levers because you do not have the dedicated tool to spread the pistons? I have this tool and it is actually made of metal. Is this the reason why you prefer to use plastic tyre lever?
I have a problem when i descend in the corners or when im climbing out of the saddle my brakes rub. When i push the bike on to one side and it "dings" and than the other side and "ding" again. I hope my explaning was good enough. Plz help
Great explanation and the tyre levers work a treat! I’ve just done it successfully in my Sram Code RSC. I previously popped out a piston in Sram Guide so your tip not to push the piston out more than 3 mm has saved me this time. Cheers 🤙🏽
For 3 years, I have endured rubbing front disc brake. Lots of useless advise led me to change: pads; rotor; mineral oil and bleed; calliper. My local bike shop couldn't resolve (in fact made it worse!). I even bought new wheels (not because of rubbing) which had the exact same problem. 3 minutes of watching your video, and I thought 'heck, let's try this'. 15 minutes later, problem was resolved! Thank you so much for such a clear, simple solution!
Brilliant! Going nuts trying to fix my dragging brake pads. Tried to exercise the pistons again and again to no avail. Removing excess fluid solved the problem immediately. In hindsight, the brake lever was very tight and a sign that the fluid had expanded. I don't know why other videos aren't showing this, but thanks a bunch.
Finally fixed after trying the last step of soaking up a small amount expanded of fluid. No more rubbing after centering, lubing the pistons, repeat, and repeat. Thanks!!
Thank you for the video. It seems like something always needs to be tweaked on my MTB bikes. Always learning....
As usual..concise and accurate information delivered thoroughly. Many thanks Clint. Greetings from The West of Ireland.
Great, video! It is amazing how many cycling channels do not cover this. They generally just talk about a bent disk or centering the caliper. again great video, very informative and simple to follow.
Is the rain water dirt affect the disc break working
DOT is awful for Florida, I really like the feel of SRAM brakes, but I won't run them because of of the extra hassle.
Was a little intimidated working on hydraulic brakes for the first time, your video was to the point and very informative. Thanks! All working well now.
Great video. So many videos out there that basically teach you to center your brakes. this one helped me diagnose and fix a rubbing pad that was driving me crazy. thank you!!!!
Huge thanks. I was trying to resolve brake squeal but after cleaning and scuffing the pads 3 times, I found the pistons were not moving equally. One was almost stuck. I guess the imbalance of piston pressure to the pads and rotor was causing the squealing. Followed your instructions and the piston eventually worked together in equal movement. Took it out for a test and voila. They no longer squeal.
This is the literally one and only video dealing with this issue. Very helpful and saved my weekend!
Thank you very much for the tip about too much pressure in the system. Had very little clearance on some new pads and was finding it very hard to get the calipers centred well enough to stop all rub. Just did as you said and bled off a little fluid and all is right with the world again.
Great one. I've seen tons of videos on how to do the first part but none of all this. Awesome
That was very helpful
you prolly dont care at all but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an instagram account?
I was dumb lost my password. I love any assistance you can offer me
@Sterling Ayden Instablaster ;)
@Jacoby Alfredo thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out now.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Jacoby Alfredo It worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you really help me out !
@Sterling Ayden no problem =)
You are a life saver sir Clint 💪🤘🙏
Top bloke. Just solved my irritating disk rub issue after viewing this vid.
Brilliant video, right to the point ! Very well explained and shown !
Thank you so much, excess pressure was the problem for me, fixed thanks to you :)
if the piston is stuck, could it be from dirt? If so, i would assume you should clean the piston before pushing it back in.
thanks a lot! it fixed my problem, super helpful .
Thank you so much Clint. After trying out about 20 other videos all of which suggested the same solutions of straightening the caliper, truing the rotors etc etc, yours was the first and only one that suggested relieving a few drops of mineral oil from the system. This solution immediately solved the problem on my Canyon CFR running Campag Super Record EPS and it was quick and easy for me to do. Quality content from knowledgeable people like yourself is hard to find out there in a sea of repetition and ineffective solutions purveyed by so many others. I’ve sent a super thanks your way. Thank you 🙏
Love it. So glad I could help!
Thank you for your advice. 👏👏👍Saves me from madness.
Tyre lever did the trick!
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!! I wish I would have watched this an hour earlier than I did.
I might have a rear dragging on my hardtail 29er I need to scope out. Good timing
ElevationEveryWeekend check the disc too could be slightly warped and rubbing in a certain place win the wheel spins
Gonna hit this again. Noticed you mentioned pushing them about 6x..haven't heard that before but have endless rubby and also squashy underpowered brakes (deore xt). Also been through the mill trying all options, convinced it was a stuck pad issue but only cycled them once or twice. ...I'll be back shortly (as big Clive would say)😄
Amazing! This video stopped me from having to go to my local bike shop pleading for help. Thank you so much for making this video short and sweet!
I did this with my dot brakes and the pistons didn’t go back in. I would push one in and the other one would come out.
Relatively new Tarmac… tried everything… and the solution was your last step. Bleeding them a bit gave me enough gap to finally end the rubbing. Thanks!
Thanks
If Sram made decent brakes, there would be no need for these videos.
Just stop buying Sram junk
Thank you for this great tutorial. I'm confused about you mentioned Di2 specific fluid. Doesn't the regular Shimano mineral oil works for Ultegra BR-R8070's?
All Shimano brakes use the same Shimano mineral oil
You’re the man! This solved my issue.
Many thanks Clint for your excellent tutorial. I just loosened the bleed port screw and out flowed the brake fluid.
I now enjoy no brake pad drag.
Thanks for the great video. I wish I could go out to the garage in T shirt and sandals and work on the bike...not happening here in Northwest Indiana.
Fantastic, finally s.o. to cover this!
Thank you for posting this, clear and simple to follow and solved my brake problems.
Thanks! I had to lube up the piston and push it in and out until it slid smoothly and release the pressure in the tube a bit and that fixed it! Lol that sounded a bit wrong tho
The problem is that new pads can be too thick
Thank you SO much for this video, Clint. You are a cycling demi-God. Had a stuck piston and tried all the suggestions in other videos and nothing worked until i back-bled the system. Piston popped right back in. Question: I've obviously got water in the brake system now. Is that an indication to bleed the affected brake?
If you have not bled the brakes in every year then I would do a bleed. However, if you just don't have the tools to do it, you could wait and see if you have that problem again.
Cool and useful video. I am curious about this little pad centering tool you show at the end. Can you provide a reference on it - brand, store, etc. Sounds useful to have.
Check out one of the links in the description below the video. It's the Birzman tool
I have the tool myself, it is good quality but...it's squared at the top edge, so if your using narrow rotors (SRAM for example use narrower than Shimano) it's not going to be sitting flush on the ring. I love the look of the tool but they should have rounded the top instead of square folding it. I tend to use a thick sheet of paper each side instead just for accuracy (paper is pretty accurate lol)
great, did NOT know that but this vid is NOT helpfull for Mtb brake levers, sure calipers are the same but drop bar brake/shift levers are waaaaay different from straight bar mtb brake levers....BUT, now that i know what needs to be done i can find a Mtb specific diy vid😊❤
Here’s a video I made on how to bleed SRAM mtb brakes.
th-cam.com/video/A8J3QGwHZjI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=FQMHe3oCjdHXLuna
thanks you saved me lots of time and agony with this video!
Thank you, Clint Gibbs!
The video addressed the issue I was having with a new bike build, which was excessive hydraulic fluid in my front brake line. Thank you Clint for your clear explanation!
if you drain the fluid, does it not make the brakes more mushy?
Can i buy you a coffe?
Thank you
Very good information video
Brother, Thanks!!!
Hi ! Hoping someone can help , my breaks/ ( not hydrolic) my rear pads and my disk are getting extreamly hot , set of on my comuute this morning and I could lock up the rear wheel however on the way home my rear brakes were about as effective as a peice of chocolate , bit confused got new pads and rotor on the way but need to commute for a week, any tips?
New pads need to be seated in. Basically you do about 10 hard stops from about 20 mph, not quite coming to a full stop.
saved me a trip to the bikeshop! thanks!
Hoolee cow. He's talking about bicycles! I listened intently the first 50 seconds.
The removal of a little brake fluid did the trick for me. Try first without pushing the pistons back, this was sufficient for me. Pushing the pistons back may reduce the breaking pressure too much.
Thank you! I tried everything to push disks between new pads after replacement. Was ready to mess with bleeding screws... So, you saved my sram breaks! :)
I tried the procedure in the video. Now the dragging is much worse and the lever doesn't brake at all. I can't even use my bike.
The centering tool is key. Did you use one? Here is a more detailed video on it
th-cam.com/video/j_-sv94eQ4E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pt4PD7rYGIdhtzXz
i was replacing brake pads on sram apex 1 equipped bike, the pistons woudnt go all the way back, this fixed the problem :) thanks!
4 years later and this video finally ended hours of frustration trying to get my caliper centered. Apparently my grx brakes were over pressurized despite following the shimano manual to the T. Thank you!
So many people have problems with disc brakes... Makes me think there is something inherently wrong with them.
Great video. Thanks
you ever have the issue where everything's centered perfect when spinning or riding straight but when turning or standing/climbing the wheeling rotor flex (while off the brakes) and the rotor pushes over into the pads (while they are still aligned perfectly)
Yes. That usually happens when there is not enough space between the pad and rotor and a little bit of flex will cause the pads to rub. Do the method of relieving some pressure out of the system like a show in this video and it may work for that.
I cant stand these brake systems
Good vid thank you. I had to go thru this procedure after a buddy of mine decided to squeeze my left lever with the bike on the repair stand and the wheel removed....took a while to push the pistons back but the plastic levers did the biz.
Is it necessary to remove the brake pads? Seems like you can push in the pistons while the pads on still on. I have 2-piston Shimano XT brakes. And thank you for this.
SUCH A GOOD VIDEO. THANK YOU. Sorry stuck on caps
Great video! One thing I would recommend is checking the rotor to make sure it is warped / bent. Just look straight down at it between the pads while spinning.
Very helpful. I have new Shimano XTs and rotors and they were dragging. I went thru you list of remedies and found loosening the mounts to center the rotor was the answer. I just flipped over the bike and spun the wheels to feel for vibration between the rotor and pads as I incrementally tightened the mounts., I had to do it by feel since they are so close I couldn't see the gap and clenching the brake levers down and retightening the mounts wasn't fixing it.
Great explaining about both scenarios. Very helpful. Tks
My mtb has been sitting from just this issue. Went to put new pads on, and the new pads would rub the rotor. Not sure what I did, but when I let a little fluid out and I lost pressure in my brake lever. LBS will save the day!
Excellent video. Thanks for posting.
The Birzman Clam was a very useful nugget. Thank you Clint.
I was searching the comments for the spelling of this little tool. Thank you
Thanks a lot for the excellent explanation and demonstration! I’ve got excessive pressure in my system , but I was afraid to open a bleeding port because I thought the whole bleeding process will then be required and I do not have tools or a good service shop where I live… so I fixed my brakes in a few seconds after watching this video 🤌 thanks!
This helped! Thanks.
This technique worked perfectly. Saved me!
thanks for that great explanation... greetings from Brazil.
This is good to know.
It was a very helpful video. Thank you sir!
Exactly my problem - now I have the solution. Thanks a lot.
When braking and the bike is not moving is it normal that the Rotor is moving when pressing the brake im using a hydraulic brake also the brake pads are aligned well or this is normal?
There are times when one pad will contact the rotor first and move it slightly side to side. The main thing is that the pads do not rub the rotor when not pressing the brake lever. If that’s the case, then it’s all right.
@@ClintGibbs thanks i also checked it to our nearest bike shop and found out that it is normal thank you for your response 😺
Got it. Very informative!👍👍👍. Immediately subscribed.
Very helpful... I learn more stuff about the bike... thanks!
Spot on thanks
Great Info....Perfect timing for gravel ride tomorrow.
Thank you!!!
rim brakes
Thanks! Went from cool and dry, to warm and humid. Pads were DRAGGING this morning. Quick watch of this video and 20 mins later I was ready to roll! Thanks again! (note, wish i could have tipped more, but no option beyond $2)
Thank you
Cracking
Didnt help, Sram SUCKS! cannot get the piston to push back in. FYI if your looking for brakes get shimano, I never had this problem until I got a bike with SRAM components.
SRAM mtb brakes have been great for me, SRAM road, not so much.
Thank you ,my problem solve.
Why dont you want to have dot on your hands?
I tried it on my bike and the rubbing is gone! The only problem is that one of the pistons is still slightly pushed out more but the caliper seems very centered. Does anyone know what's the problem? Thanks
Do a piston service; clean and lubricate the pistons (lots of videos how-to, it’s easy).
Is it possible to remove brake fluid?
Awesome video! worked for me
As usual your video is so informative you have save me a lot of mullah n frustration n time, more power to your show n stay healthy n safe alwayz
Great video. Thank you. Are you using tyre levers because you do not have the dedicated tool to spread the pistons? I have this tool and it is actually made of metal. Is this the reason why you prefer to use plastic tyre lever?
I’ve always used tire levers and never felt the need to get the tool.
Great video, thank you.
I have a problem when i descend in the corners or when im climbing out of the saddle my brakes rub. When i push the bike on to one side and it "dings" and than the other side and "ding" again. I hope my explaning was good enough. Plz help
They just need to be centered.
th-cam.com/video/hBdJYX8tICA/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/j_-sv94eQ4E/w-d-xo.html
Excellent advice!🇬🇧☺
I think i need to replacement my seels in my sram guide rsc how do you know ? My wheel has resintance and piston don't go back far enoug
Try bleeding the brakes. Worked for me.
That was extremely helpful.
Thanks a lot.
Thanks Clint 👍🚒🇬🇧
Thank you, this is great information
Great explanation and the tyre levers work a treat! I’ve just done it successfully in my Sram Code RSC. I previously popped out a piston in Sram Guide so your tip not to push the piston out more than 3 mm has saved me this time. Cheers 🤙🏽
Unbelievably helpful. Thank you.