I'm a former combat vet and 20 year police veteran. I've seen the elephant and I've stood where the metal meets the meat. What this man did not once, not twice, not three, not four, but five times in bringing those three people in from certain death in the middle of a raging Blizzard 99.999% of the planet can't comprehend makes him a man. Him not seeking any attention or gain from his actions makes him a hero! He earned it so give it to him!
Yes - he did no selling of his heroic actions and we do not see that very often - especially in that world of extreme mountaineering. Lots of hunger to get famous and rich.
.I've seen the elephant and I've stood where the metal meets the meat? . him not seeking any attention or gain from his actions makes him Not American....how many Navy Seal "heros" (or psychopaths, depending how you view t hem) not to mention the Americans who were on this "new business" venture with their customers, spend the rest of their lives or at least a few years milking it....
@@extanegautham8950 The answer would be most. By definition you don't hear about the ones who don't "milk it" No? Then off the top of what you call a head name me five Medal of Honor winners or the American whom single handedly saved six lives on K2. Hint: He was also the oldest member of both teams and is hardly mentioned in any of the stories. You're either self loathing American or a foreigner with an inferiority complex. But "pyschopaths"? Get a life.
Just think in 1996, he summitted WITHOUT O2s and was the lead climber breaking trail and even fixed ropes on the route. Then after descending he saved people in the midst of the storm and climbed BACK UP 300M to try and save Scott Fischer.
R. Minnis I don’t think you can really say that, he stayed at the summit for 1.5 hours and when he left told them to head to camp soon. If they’d listened to him they would’ve survived. Not to mention that he was hired to “guide” them not “babysit”. If you want to be mad at somebody Scott Fisher is your man. He had the (alongside anatoli) strongest climber in the expedition completely expend himself dragging the rich girl to the summit in a sled behind him because it would be good press to have her there. Scott also overexerted himself and fought even further for the summit rather than going back to camp to rest which killed him taking an experienced leader and two strong climbers out of the equation. Had anatoli, the other guide and fisher all been present at the camp during the disaster things may have been very different. Instead, Anatoli was the only competent climber able and willing to go out in those conditions. Which again he did alone, and he did 3 times. Imagine if he as the help of two others. And what about Rob Hall? Would you say he’s a borderline murderer for allowing his party to stay at the summit that long, or for encouraging an overexerted climber to keep climbing to the summit and ultimately to his death? Or for not taking that climber and the rest of his party back down the mountain earlier? A decision which cost multiple lives. I don’t think any of these people are borderline murderers but if you want to find one, Anatoli certainly isn’t it. He was just lucky enough to survive and didn’t bring o2 so every armchair mountaineer blames him for the disaster.
I like boukreev as he came from very humble beginnings, not like a lot of himalayan climbers who come from rich families and can afford to spend all their time abroad climbing. Boukreev earnt it all
You can tell he's fed up with these bullshit questions and having to defend his actions amidst the inaction of others. While Jon Krakauer and company sat in their tents with their tea, Boukreev was single-handedly saving people's lives in the middle of a blizzard. Remember that it was Krakauer who ended up with fame and riches from his book while Boukreev was slandered and questioned. What a rotten world we live. Had he been American, he would've shook the president's hand and had a Hollywood film made about him.
I don't think it's that black and white. While I don't fully understand why Krakauer was criticising him, you saying "Krakauer and company sat in their tents with their tea" is just as faulty...those climbers were hardly alive, everyone was exhausted, so it wasn't this jolly gathering in the tents, people were in fact, half dead at that point. What Boukreev did was out of this world, spot on superman-like effort you could not expect others to perform, especially after a descend (in a blizzard). He was not an average mountaineer and he also admitted in his book, The Climb, that if he got caught in the storm up on the mountain, it's very likely he would have died as well. I agree with your statement, though, would he have been an American, he would have been treated slightly differently - in 1997 he was awarded the David A. Sowles Memorial Award by the American Alpine Club for his heroic efforts, though.
Krakauer didn't drink tea, as far as I know he "shat himself" and was lying in a sleeping bag. He was called several times by Stuart Hutchinson to help those who were stuck, but he was unable to help anyone, like everyone in the fourth camp at that time, Except Bukreev!
The questions surrounding Scott’s whereabouts were made the first night, I believe, when Anatoli was making sorties in the storm to rescue whoever he could. The next day was when he went and found Scott’s body, confirmed he was gone and said his goodbyes. Legend.
Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals when I practice my religion. - Anatoli Boukreev R.I.P. No client of Scott Fisher's group died on the mountain. That was his ultimate responsibility and he delivered much more than that. He did something unthinkable and saved people in the death zone.
Anatolia is a hero for saving those people, he’s the only person I can think of who has been criticized/demonized for saving 3 peoples lives from a different expedition none the less. Climbing without oxygen is a monstrous task but it’s better if your body can handle it, you don’t have to worry about running out of oxygen. RIP Anatoli, he died in an avalanche on Annapurna in 1997.
@@MrRaZzA1995 So you don’t think that he or the sherpas who were being paid to guide the expeditions has zero obligation to help those in need? Anatoli refused to use oxygen above camp 4 out of sheer pride, and that limited the amount of time he could spend at the highest of altitude where (almost) everyone died. Basically rendering him useless on the summit push.
Совершенно не понимаю, почему человеку, спасшему три жизни на высоте более 8000 метров, пришлось оправдываться за слова человека, который лежал в палатке на той же высоте и никого не спас? С этим миром, что-то не так.
Couldn't agree more!!! One thing is for sure, if he was American and not Russian, the whole world would admire him (as it should be) and he would have been a hero, no matter what... But then again if he wasn't Russian, but American, he probably would have stayed in the tent and not saving anyone...
Yes, what Anatoli says in the interview is interesting. It's amazing how he went to look for Scott Fischer, even after they told him that nothing could be done for him.True he found him but could not revive him. How was it then that Scott F. climbed Everest without oxygen before and survived and in 1996 climbing with oxygen he died and could not make it down.
Lets understand one thing. Anatoli spending more time on top without oxygen and not returning means his certain death. It would have just added 4 more people to the death count (him + 3 others he rescued). If he chose to climb without oxygen he HAS to come down quickly. No choice. And he DID what he had planned i.e. go back up to help. As he has always climbed without oxygen he is accustomed to his body's signals\signs without oxygen. With oxygen he might not recognize whether he is in danger or he is fit. Something like false positives. Hence he will naturally do what he is used to doing while going on the most dangerous place on earth. He is a hero! Respect!!
I agree except that I think he probably should have been climbing with oxygen when he was guiding. Because He had to come down so quickly, he wasn't there to intervene or help other clients until afterwards when they were in dire trouble. Who knows what would have happened? He definitely acted as a hero, That's clear. But I think he should have been climbing on 02
Such an unsung hero. Shame how Krakauer unintentionally made this poor man’s final year of life a PR nightmare after being one of the people indebted to his heroism.
@@BoboEverest Messner climbed 14 peaks without oxygen Anatoli only 10 peaks, Messner is the only men to climb Everest alone without oxygen, so Messner by far the greatest (smartest) climber of all time. After Messner definitely Jerzy Kukuczka and others. Anatoli maybe top 10.
@@ill_Barrett he seen what was going wrong early on and knew even if he did say something most of the climbers would have summit fever, it was a good day up until the storm as well filling them with confidence. Toly came down, rested, then went out in one of the worst recorded storms in Everest’s history To save 3 people. would have saved beck and yasuko if they were coherent and could walk. He was a hero that day.
😂 Despite all the criticism of him that resulted from Krakauer's book, Anatoli was recognized in 1997 by the American Alpine Club for heroism. He was awarded the David A. Sowles Memorial Award for rescuing three climbers from the South Col as well as attempting to rescue Scott Fischer. Fortunately, he received this award prior to his death.
‘Mountains have the power to call us into their realms and there, left forever, are our friends whose great souls were longing for the heights. Do not forget the mountaineers who have not returned from the summits’ - Anatoli Boukreev
I’m glad I came across this clip on TH-cam. I’ve read his book, “ The Climb”, and Jon Krakauer’s “Into Thin Air”, which were their accounts of the same Everest disaster that they were part of. Both books were great reads. I got the impression from the books that Anatoli’s spoken English was not that fluent, but I had no problem understanding what he was saying in this interview. RIP Anatoli Boukreev.
The fact that Anatoli was able to judge himself physiologically able to climb without oxygen, then not only to climb and descend successfully without oxygen, but to still have the energy to go out again into one of the worst storms on Everest in recent times, multiple times, bringing back multiple dying climbers, and to do all that without oxygen too, PROVES that he knew his own physiology as intimately and as accurately as he claimed he did - as all people attempting those kinds of climbs should by the time they attempt them. If others out there had got to know themselves as well as he did, and had done right by that knowledge, as he did, there would have been far fewer casualties. You can't expect any commercial guide, who has never met you before then, to gain such perfect and intimate knowledge of your performance limits at altitude on your behalf, just because you're paying them to lead you up a mountain. You have to gain that knowledge for yourself, whether an amateur climber or a professional climber, and the only way to do that is through extensive lived experience. That's the issue with commercial guiding, I think.
It's also important to remember that Fischer was having logistical problems on this expedition. It's not like there were dozens of oxygen bottles in critical spots and Boukreev said naw. There were very limited canisters to the point that they very much had to be managed. Boukreev was able to give people oxygen like Beidleman and maybe well have saved their lives by giving them these canisters.
This man was an unbelievable climber one of the greatest to do it , wish more people would read the climb his book and his letters to outside the truth is out there ! Anatoli Is a legend
I’ve only been learning about this in the last few months, but I’ve already noticed a few accounts of this tragedy either ignore or diminish what this man did, which is truly shocking.
Lol.. people forming opinions in the comments as if they have high altitude Mountaineering experience.. let alone climbing, they wouldn't have even seen a 8k meter peak.. the man did the best he could have.. he is a hero.. read Chapter 7 of Ed Viesturs book "The Will to Climb" to understand what that guy really was!! If one really needs to understand who is AB, then read "Above the Clouds".. Great Man Anatoli 🔥
He understood that attacking needs to be fast instead of babhsitting all tje clients which will eventully lead to all their death. Dude knows his body survival capability and sticks to it with discipline. at the end of the day he is the only one who carried the rescue. such balls
Exactly, i think he knew with inexperienced slow bunch that doesnt understand or adhere to the guidelines, and him being without oxygen he needed to get up and there and down in a reasonable time, not wait for the the slow ones in the death zone. If he had stayed up and try to herd them down, they probably all would have died. Anatoly getting down first so he had energy to resque more.
I have trekked next to where he died, about 3 years later, and the Avalanches could wipe out Major city with no chance of survival, Annapurna 4 and the others are for death cheaters, more respect to a climber that trys, but it is unreal, the human eye cannot even see the top through the clouds and wind of snow in the Annapurna, where A. B. was killed
I agree. I commented up top that I had read Into Thin Air before but after reading The Climb, I have deleted Into Thin Air from my library. It's so wrong what he did to Anatoli. RIP.
I read both books and thought for a long time.who is right-krakauer or bukreev.And I found the answer:Neil and Anatoly were assigned by Scott Fisher to escort all the clients to the summit of Mount Everest and back to base camp.And that everyone is alive and well.Neil and Anatoly followed the boss ' instructions..They're both doing great.If only they'd saved their boss, too.And Krakauer is also a good guy.He criticized Bukreev,and the whole world learned that there is such a Russian.And the more Krakauer criticizes Bukreev, the more people will know that Bukreev is a true professional and a hero.
Even Neil says that Anatoly was butting heads with Scott and his instructions throughout the expedition. Example: Anatoly refused to wear oxygen about camp 4 during the summit push. It seems like common sense that maximizing the time having someone so knowledgeable and strong on the mountain trying to help others would have been preferable. I think the problem here isn’t with Anatoly or Krakauer, it’s with the ghost writer and publishers of The Climb being sloppy with their account.
@@colinwoods9601 From what I read it seems like Scott would have preferred it if Anatoli did not use oxygen since they had a very limited supply. Anatoli said no, he wanted the same amount the clients got. So he received two canisters. Then during the push he felt good enough not to use them and gave them to other people in need. Scott and Anatoli did have some conflicts, but they were mostly about how to better acclimatize people to the altitude. I'll assume you're misinformed rather than that you're spreading lies intentionally.
@@BabyPrincess687 if he started out with oxygen and had to give it to someone in need why does he keep saying he was always going to climb without it? Cause giving your oxygen away is a much more believable reason for not having any...
@@colinwoods9601 Just saw an hour and a half interview with Neil and he said that very thing. Anatoli refused to wear oxygen contrary to the orders of Scott, And that may have complicated things on the mountain that day but he acted with incredible bravery and strength in saving so many people. Neil and Anatoli were friends,and he spoke highly of him.
@@tartarianknight33 Родился 16 января 1958 года в городе Коркино Челябинской области третьим ребёнком в многодетной семье (старшие дети Александр (1952) и Любовь (1954), младшие Ирина и Николай). Отец, Николай Васильевич, занимался ремонтом музыкальных инструментов, мать, Валентина Андреевна, работала в местном транспортном управлении, а позже в местном клубе. Учился в средней школе № 2 (ныне МБОУ «СОШ № 2» Коркинского муниципального района), которую окончил в 1975 году. Учёба давалась ему легко, по словам старшего брата, «всё схватывал на лету. Увлекался чтением, «…любил науку. Физику. По рекомендации от школы поступил на физико-математический факультет Челябинского государственного педагогический института, который окончил в 1979 году по специальности учитель физики, а также получил диплом тренера по лыжному спорту. После окончания ВУЗа получил распределение в родную школу, но «как-то сумел договориться» и из Челябинска уехал в Алма-Ату. Там же был призван на срочную службу в армию (1979-1981). По протекции Ерванда Ильинского, главного тренера республиканского ЦСКА и сборной Казахстана по альпинизму, получил направление в спортивную роту Среднеазиатского военного округа. Во время службы в армии заболел менингитом, из-за чего был исключён из состава сборной САВО, а врачи запретили ему заниматься спортом вообще. Тем не менее, сумел полностью восстановиться. После увольнения в запас остался в Казахстане,
Ed Viesters book "The Will to Climb" has an entire chapter focused on Anatoli's last and fateful climb on Annapurna. Its a well balanced fair discussion on Anatoli...both the 1996 Everest season and what happened on 25 December 1997. Check it out....chapter 7
Anatolii Bukreev is a real hero , he made unbelievable things in mountains, saved 3 americans citizens from the death, without another help and oxygen. Светлая память, Анатолию!!!
Boukreev is the hero of the Everest disaster. He went out without oxygen and rescued people, while Krakauer stayed safely in his tent. And yet Krakauer has the temerity to criticise this hero.
A hero that wasn’t soft and understood that if you are on the mountain, you better have come prepared. This is not school or training time. Jon Krakauer had nothing but praise for Anatoli Boukreev until the truth started coming out. Watch his interviews and talks right after in Boulder. Anatoli Boukreev was an easy target for Jon Krakauer unfortunately. “A lie makes it half way around the world, while the truth is still putting on its shoes”
His voice reminds me of Ivan Drago! 'If he climbs, he climbs!' Hhahah but no, I really enjoyed the interview. The real problem, as he has said, was money; the people who could afford it but weren't ready to climb Everest. In his own words there were mostly rich Americans who paid to reach the summit but had no real idea how dangerous it could be and how important it is to abide with guidelines once they are set.
AntiqueSpell he really was somethin like drago lmao,somethin unreal! Saving 3 ppl on Everest,without oxygen,during a bad bad storm...there s no way I can tell u how he made this...real hero! Put off my hat when hear Anatolij Bukreev.
It was not his fault Scott didnt turn his clients around. Those people knew. 2 oclock is turn around time. If the had followed the rules. They would have been back at camp 4 before the storm hit.
Anatoli and Scott failed to communicate to each other their expectations and understanding of Anatoli's role. Scott owned the company, so most of that is on him. Anatoli was always just being Anatoli - an incredibly strong climber, introverted, ideologically stubborn, proud, a proven life saver. RIP legend
So this interview is from 96 or early 97 because he died in 97 either this him or fake if it’s real great job gettin an interview on the phone round those days wasn’t really popular I’m 33 whoever did it were ahead of theh time but Anatoli is a legend in my book
Back in the days you had real hero climbers like Anatoli or Alex Lowe ect who died in real climbs , today we have celebrities' that die on Everest ,.....jumping from their Kilimanjaro to Everest.
@@evgenidimitrov9703 because he showed persistence and a will to survive when he was already left for dead by the others. A “hero” doesn’t need to one for the sake of others, he was a heroic human being that refused to quit and succumb to the defeat which wiped out the others.
The only thing I don't like is that Beck blamed a lot of other people for his own situation. He chose to sit there and not go down when other people encouraged him to come with them. He wanted to wait for Rob and he shouldn't have done that. He seems to point fingers now and that's not a good thing because it seems like everyone on the mountain that day did their best to help others and to survive.
Beidleman,Boukreev,Cleve Schanning,LeneGammelgaard,Sherpa Pemba,Pete Etans,Tod Burlesson all worked well in this 1996 disaster.As well as all those who saved the Taiwanese Makalu go and Beck Withers
I tend to disagree with his apparent refusal to use oxygen while guiding. Then again, maybe he has a point. If you run out, you're junk. If you want to get mad at some choose Sandy Pitmann who slowed everyone because a sherpa had to drag her socialite ass up. Or Doug, whose dreams were bigger than his stomach.
I agree, but really, the guiding companies are at fault. They are proper mountaineers so they know 100% that these people with no real experience should not be up there. And if sandy Pittman couldn’t make it up and needed short roping UP the mountain, no matter how much publicity her getting to the top would bring, that is a huge indication that she was not capable of doing it and she should have been made to descend. It should have been a huge lesson what happened that year but it seems even more companies with even less experienced guides are now taking more unfit people up there. It’s crazy. Anatoli is a hero. He has class, skill, integrity, morals and is highly experienced. Amazing.
First of all. Let's find out how much people were paid on that climb in 1996 for their job. Was it equal pay for all there involved? And who was responsible for that bunch of not so well prepared tourists? I don't think it was Boukreev's job to carry limp bodies down the mountain.
Anatoli is right about the blizzard - it was bad but far from the worst you will see on Everest. Rob Hall wasn't unlucky to have his expedition run into bad weather, he was lucky he got 39 people to the summit over several years before encountering it.
A hero that wasn’t soft and understood that if you are on the mountain, you better have come prepared. This is not school or training time. Jon Krakauer had nothing but praise for Anatoli Boukreev until the truth started coming out. Watch his interviews and talks right after in Boulder. Anatoli Boukreev was an easy target for Jon Krakauer unfortunately. “A lie makes it half way around the world, while the truth is still putting on its shoes”
I think he got pretty fair treatment in Into Thin Air. He was credited with saving lots of lives, but did he do everything perfect? No. He should have climbed with O2 (IMO). At the end of the day my perception was a net positive for him and he shouldn't have been so hurt by the constructive criticism, even though I know he was 🥺 RIP Anatoli.
Jon Krakaur has *'milked'* a lot of money from that year's tragic events on Everest.....and he has continued to do so. Which render his (so-called) opinions suspect & redundant. The money *'taints'* him.
Ed Viesturs was another strong climber at base camp with the IMAX crew watching with binoculars, pleading with Hall to “Keep moving “. He felt useless down below and I’m sure he had thoughts about the large queue heading up at a snail’s pace so late in the afternoon
i wouldnt doubt it kills slowly, as much as an accident as well. you cant drown your heart and brain.. that much, for so long.. hidden problems.. a hidden weakest link
Boukreev was right about mountaineering. Only the strongest and most competent climbers belong in such a dangerous and demanding environment. His decision to be a paid guide was totally antithetical to his mountaineering ethos. Why did he break his own rules? Was it the money? Was he using Fisher's company to bag Everest? Guiding amateurs was a complete violation of Boukreev's core values.
Good point. I think Anatoli succeeded as a guide, rescuing his teammates. He could not, however, rescue Scott Fischer, whose drive as a climber was legendary.
Many professional Mountaineers have the same opinion as Krakauer. Guides should be on 02. That includes Neil Bidleman. That's all John was saying. He praised Toli for his heroics on many occasions. I think much of this "feud" was egged on by others.
Anatoli's strategy was very good but questionable by Krakauer.Maybe he should have been on "O's" but what Anatoli explains in his book the "Climb" that he wouldn't be any good sticking around the Summit. The cold weakens the body along with climbing without oxygen and he went down first to reach base camp to warm up and be ready. It worked and he was ready, saving Charlotte, Neil, Sandy P., he saved his teammates and still had the drive even to go up to look for Scott F.
No, all his clients survived. He went on a solo rescue to bring the stranded ones back to safety. He did descend ahead of his clients, so he was rested enough to help them later on.
He ascended ahead to fix ropes up the Hillary Step for the other climbers. Lopsang and Dorjee had been supposed to do it, but between their own arguments and Pitmanns nonsense, they had not prepared the ropes. Anatoli began his returned to Camp 4 just as the first few summited, then literally saved three people's lives and went back for more.
Wrongo!! The guy left the group and was the first one down to camp. He didn't pay for a dam thing only to guide and help clients. If he didn't want to do that he should have stayed home. The guy climbed with no oxygen how the hell is he going to help anyone!! Exactly. Yes he did save people but he could have saved many more if he wasn't so selfish. I hate to talk bout people no longer here but get facts straight everyone
Brandon French you have shown you either have not read any of these books properly. Or you have a simple dislike for Boukreev. In any event your facts are totally incorrect and your attitude even more wrong. Armchair expert and know it all it would seem.
I'm confused why you think hes just speaking gibberish, he answered all the questions in an experienced mountaineer perspective. Krakauer and weathers didnt climbed again; and that's because they're not true mountaineers.
While I don't doubt that Boukreev was one of the best high altitude mountaineers of his time, I am very surprised about the totally exaggerated opinions and the hyperbole which has been developed around his persona. To call him the best mountaineer who walked on the planet Earth, as I have read here, is abject nonsense! And I'm fairly sure that Anatoli himself would not have agreed. I have the impression that his untimely death in 1997 in connection with his controversial involvement in the 1996 Everest tragedy, have sparked a veritable Boukreev cult! In the eyes of his fans he seems to have mutated into a superhuman being to whom the laws of physics and biology didn't apply, and who simply could do no wrong!
@@maggotroot , I am probably a lot older than you are ;) And that might be the reason why I do not like hyperbole and exaggerations. But may be you are right: praising Boukreev does not not hurt anyone.
Анатолий был скромным и правдивым человеком он не искал славы. Он заслужил этой похвалы, кто бы что не говорил. Он великий альпинист. Вечная ему памать...
The reason everyone is so upset is because Anatoli was told to and agreed to using oxygen. He actually carried a bottle and a regulator up to the Balcony. But then turned to Neil Bidelman and said, “I No need” then gave his bottle to Neil. So who really knows what consequences that decision led to up there. But for sure we know that he summited without oxygen but didn’t stay up there to help others down-he took off after 15-20 minutes when Neil was up there for over an hour plus to help others down. Anatoli was a great climber but he wasn’t a climber on this expedition he was a guide and guides are not supposed to take unnecessary risks for themselves when they are hired to guide-to look after others FIRST not take a reactionary position and then IF something bad happens he then reacts to help but claim he’s a hero cause he did what he did? I’m sure he is for the three he rescued but he kinda put himself in that position unknowingly..his decisions will always be under controversy that’s for sure 🤷🏻♂️
![[Re:all TREASURE] EP.6 in 방콕ㅣ🚩 쩡캠의 방콕 투어 빵 마이 와이 👍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uyFw-nItA_s/mqdefault.jpg)
This man was an absolute beautiful genius and angel that walked among us. I have more respect for Anatoli than any other mountaineer on earth.
I'm a former combat vet and 20 year police veteran. I've seen the elephant and I've stood where the metal meets the meat. What this man did not once, not twice, not three, not four, but five times in bringing those three people in from certain death in the middle of a raging Blizzard 99.999% of the planet can't comprehend makes him a man. Him not seeking any attention or gain from his actions makes him a hero! He earned it so give it to him!
Yes - he did no selling of his heroic actions and we do not see that very often - especially in that world of extreme mountaineering. Lots of hunger to get famous and rich.
.I've seen the elephant and I've stood where the metal meets the meat? . him not seeking any attention or gain from his actions makes him Not American....how many Navy Seal "heros" (or psychopaths, depending how you view t hem) not to mention the Americans who were on this "new business" venture with their customers, spend the rest of their lives or at least a few years milking it....
@@extanegautham8950 The answer would be most. By definition you don't hear about the ones who don't "milk it" No? Then off the top of what you call a head name me five Medal of Honor winners or the American whom single handedly saved six lives on K2. Hint: He was also the oldest member of both teams and is hardly mentioned in any of the stories.
You're either self loathing American or a foreigner with an inferiority complex. But "pyschopaths"? Get a life.
Согласен на все 100%
@@extanegautham8950 forget the guy is a tard
One of the greatest mountaineers that ever walked the face of the earth. He lived and died doing what he loved. Rest in peace Anatoli.
‘THE’ Greatest mountaineer to ever walk planet earth.
Just think in 1996, he summitted WITHOUT O2s and was the lead climber breaking trail and even fixed ropes on the route. Then after descending he saved people in the midst of the storm and climbed BACK UP 300M to try and save Scott Fischer.
Jerzy Kukuczca is the greatest for sure.
mayb but a horrible guide borderline on murderer
R. Minnis I don’t think you can really say that, he stayed at the summit for 1.5 hours and when he left told them to head to camp soon. If they’d listened to him they would’ve survived. Not to mention that he was hired to “guide” them not “babysit”. If you want to be mad at somebody Scott Fisher is your man. He had the (alongside anatoli) strongest climber in the expedition completely expend himself dragging the rich girl to the summit in a sled behind him because it would be good press to have her there. Scott also overexerted himself and fought even further for the summit rather than going back to camp to rest which killed him taking an experienced leader and two strong climbers out of the equation. Had anatoli, the other guide and fisher all been present at the camp during the disaster things may have been very different. Instead, Anatoli was the only competent climber able and willing to go out in those conditions. Which again he did alone, and he did 3 times. Imagine if he as the help of two others. And what about Rob Hall? Would you say he’s a borderline murderer for allowing his party to stay at the summit that long, or for encouraging an overexerted climber to keep climbing to the summit and ultimately to his death? Or for not taking that climber and the rest of his party back down the mountain earlier? A decision which cost multiple lives. I don’t think any of these people are borderline murderers but if you want to find one, Anatoli certainly isn’t it. He was just lucky enough to survive and didn’t bring o2 so every armchair mountaineer blames him for the disaster.
I like boukreev as he came from very humble beginnings, not like a lot of himalayan climbers who come from rich families and can afford to spend all their time abroad climbing. Boukreev earnt it all
You can tell he's fed up with these bullshit questions and having to defend his actions amidst the inaction of others. While Jon Krakauer and company sat in their tents with their tea, Boukreev was single-handedly saving people's lives in the middle of a blizzard. Remember that it was Krakauer who ended up with fame and riches from his book while Boukreev was slandered and questioned.
What a rotten world we live. Had he been American, he would've shook the president's hand and had a Hollywood film made about him.
just exactly !! you said it all !
I don't think it's that black and white. While I don't fully understand why Krakauer was criticising him, you saying "Krakauer and company sat in their tents with their tea" is just as faulty...those climbers were hardly alive, everyone was exhausted, so it wasn't this jolly gathering in the tents, people were in fact, half dead at that point. What Boukreev did was out of this world, spot on superman-like effort you could not expect others to perform, especially after a descend (in a blizzard). He was not an average mountaineer and he also admitted in his book, The Climb, that if he got caught in the storm up on the mountain, it's very likely he would have died as well. I agree with your statement, though, would he have been an American, he would have been treated slightly differently - in 1997 he was awarded the David A. Sowles Memorial Award by the American Alpine Club for his heroic efforts, though.
Krakauer didn't drink tea, as far as I know he "shat himself" and was lying in a sleeping bag. He was called several times by Stuart Hutchinson to help those who were stuck, but he was unable to help anyone, like everyone in the fourth camp at that time, Except Bukreev!
@@traubista6068 Good shout mate
I could not agree more..You are right
It broke my heart when after he rescued 3 clients, he kept repeating asking about where Scott was? I hope they met wherever they are.
wasn't he the one that found Scott's body?
Nemanja Ignjatović i thought so . Atleast in the movie
The questions surrounding Scott’s whereabouts were made the first night, I believe, when Anatoli was making sorties in the storm to rescue whoever he could. The next day was when he went and found Scott’s body, confirmed he was gone and said his goodbyes. Legend.
Scott remains on the mountain to this day
@@inemanja It was Ed Viesturs * in the IMAX movie team) that was the first to encouter the bodies of both Scott and Rob, few days after the disaster
ANATOLI BOUKREEV ‘May his name be written in letters of fire’ the greatest climber that ever lived.
MrParisienWalkways A true hero I loving compassionate man put his life on the line while the South African team went to sleep in their tents
Thank you for training and assisting the 1997 Indonesian Kopassus Everest Expedition🇮🇩
Rest In Peace Anatoly
You are welcome
Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve,
they are the cathedrals when I practice my religion.
- Anatoli Boukreev
R.I.P.
No client of Scott Fisher's group died on the mountain. That was his ultimate responsibility and he delivered much more than that. He did something unthinkable and saved people in the death zone.
‘Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve. They are cathedrals, where I practice my religion.’ Wow.
If it wasn't for Sandy Hill Pittman, from Scotts team, many more if not all would've survived...Rob's team saved her...
Rest in peace Anatoli. Our hero💙
Anatolia is a hero for saving those people, he’s the only person I can think of who has been criticized/demonized for saving 3 peoples lives from a different expedition none the less. Climbing without oxygen is a monstrous task but it’s better if your body can handle it, you don’t have to worry about running out of oxygen. RIP Anatoli, he died in an avalanche on Annapurna in 1997.
Who demonise him? Jon Krakauer....???🤔
@@hazarddavid6987 yup and no one else
Definitely the strongest guy and climber in the group.
Him and the Sherpas were the true heroes that day, they didn’t need to try and help Anyone but they did.
Shrestha! That’s Nepalese. You know a Bobby Shrestha who did some time in the Army?
@@pugilemoltobene3708 no
@@azayrocks ah ok....had a buddy in the military who was from Nepal by the same name (Sherpa culture)
@@MrRaZzA1995 So you don’t think that he or the sherpas who were being paid to guide the expeditions has zero obligation to help those in need? Anatoli refused to use oxygen above camp 4 out of sheer pride, and that limited the amount of time he could spend at the highest of altitude where (almost) everyone died. Basically rendering him useless on the summit push.
Совершенно не понимаю, почему человеку, спасшему три жизни на высоте более 8000 метров, пришлось оправдываться за слова человека, который лежал в палатке на той же высоте и никого не спас? С этим миром, что-то не так.
Couldn't agree more!!! One thing is for sure, if he was American and not Russian, the whole world would admire him (as it should be) and he would have been a hero, no matter what... But then again if he wasn't Russian, but American, he probably would have stayed in the tent and not saving anyone...
@@evgenidimitrov9703 полностью согласен
@@evgenidimitrov9703 Аффект.
Потому он репортер ему все равно главное раздуть или исказить чтобы заработать и резрнанс но потом все равно большинство поняли его трюк и ложь
Yes, what Anatoli says in the interview is interesting. It's amazing how he went to look for Scott Fischer, even after they told him that nothing could be done for him.True he found him but could not revive him. How was it then that Scott F. climbed Everest without oxygen before and survived and in 1996 climbing with oxygen he died and could not make it down.
Lets understand one thing. Anatoli spending more time on top without oxygen and not returning means his certain death. It would have just added 4 more people to the death count (him + 3 others he rescued).
If he chose to climb without oxygen he HAS to come down quickly. No choice. And he DID what he had planned i.e. go back up to help.
As he has always climbed without oxygen he is accustomed to his body's signals\signs without oxygen. With oxygen he might not recognize whether he is in danger or he is fit. Something like false positives. Hence he will naturally do what he is used to doing while going on the most dangerous place on earth. He is a hero! Respect!!
I agree except that I think he probably should have been climbing with oxygen when he was guiding. Because He had to come down so quickly, he wasn't there to intervene or help other clients until afterwards when they were in dire trouble. Who knows what would have happened? He definitely acted as a hero, That's clear. But I think he should have been climbing on 02
What an extraordinary human being, such a great loss, RIP.
Such an unsung hero. Shame how Krakauer unintentionally made this poor man’s final year of life a PR nightmare after being one of the people indebted to his heroism.
Krakauer was emasculated and insecure because he wasn’t fit to be on the same mountain as Anatoly
Krakauer is a tiny charlatan who fooled ignorant gullible people. Boukreev is as big as a mountain.
certainly he was an amazing man a real Hero risking his life to go back and save them as he promised RIP Anatoli
Anatoli is greatest climber ever lived!
RIP Anatoli!
In The Top ten 1) Alex Lowe 2) Honnold
I wouldn’t say the greatest definitely a very stronger climber but, Reinhold Messner is definitely the greatest alive.
@@metalman22331 I agree, but Anatoli did climb Everest without supplement oxygen like Messner, but Messner was first.
@@BoboEverest Messner climbed 14 peaks without oxygen Anatoli only 10 peaks, Messner is the only men to climb Everest alone without oxygen, so Messner by far the greatest (smartest) climber of all time. After Messner definitely Jerzy Kukuczka and others. Anatoli maybe top 10.
@@defactunit363 Yea. I know Messner did all that, ok. How many people Messner saved?
Anatoli was very brave he rescue 3 ppl on Everest without oxygen in a severe storm, I he dies a year later though.
eiram55-44 Jake when people hear his name,put off the hats. Anatolij was a real man. A real hero.
@@ill_Barrett he seen what was going wrong early on and knew even if he did say something most of the climbers would have summit fever, it was a good day up until the storm as well filling them with confidence.
Toly came down, rested, then went out in one of the worst recorded storms in Everest’s history To save 3 people. would have saved beck and yasuko if they were coherent and could walk. He was a hero that day.
It took an even stronger natural phenomenon to take him out. Dude was a unit.
One of the greatest climber to have ever born.
‘THE’ greatest climber ever born.
@@MrParisienWalkways Right you are
An absolute giant of mountaineering.
His book was very enjoyable. A very thoughtful guy and hell of a mountaineer.
Did yohu honestly read it?
a book about him. ghostwritten by a friend
The climb is the name of the book.
GOD bless this man!! This is a man that is truly larger than life
😂 Despite all the criticism of him that resulted from Krakauer's book, Anatoli was recognized in 1997 by the American Alpine Club for heroism. He was awarded the David A. Sowles Memorial Award for rescuing three climbers from the South Col as well as attempting to rescue Scott Fischer. Fortunately, he received this award prior to his death.
‘Mountains have the power to call us into their realms and there, left forever, are our friends whose great souls were longing for the heights. Do not forget the mountaineers who have not returned from the summits’ - Anatoli Boukreev
I’m glad I came across this clip on TH-cam. I’ve read his book, “ The Climb”, and Jon Krakauer’s “Into Thin Air”, which were their accounts of the same Everest disaster that they were part of. Both books were great reads. I got the impression from the books that Anatoli’s spoken English was not that fluent, but I had no problem understanding what he was saying in this interview.
RIP Anatoli Boukreev.
The fact that Anatoli was able to judge himself physiologically able to climb without oxygen, then not only to climb and descend successfully without oxygen, but to still have the energy to go out again into one of the worst storms on Everest in recent times, multiple times, bringing back multiple dying climbers, and to do all that without oxygen too, PROVES that he knew his own physiology as intimately and as accurately as he claimed he did - as all people attempting those kinds of climbs should by the time they attempt them. If others out there had got to know themselves as well as he did, and had done right by that knowledge, as he did, there would have been far fewer casualties. You can't expect any commercial guide, who has never met you before then, to gain such perfect and intimate knowledge of your performance limits at altitude on your behalf, just because you're paying them to lead you up a mountain. You have to gain that knowledge for yourself, whether an amateur climber or a professional climber, and the only way to do that is through extensive lived experience. That's the issue with commercial guiding, I think.
Beautifully put.
It's also important to remember that Fischer was having logistical problems on this expedition. It's not like there were dozens of oxygen bottles in critical spots and Boukreev said naw. There were very limited canisters to the point that they very much had to be managed. Boukreev was able to give people oxygen like Beidleman and maybe well have saved their lives by giving them these canisters.
Anatoli and Neal were the guides for Scotts team. Mike Groom and Andy Harris were Rob Halls guides.
A russian heart could not leave people to die in the storm
@Bear Buck Don't confuse russian People with russian politics ;) Two different things. Just like China, Cuba and others. All ugly communist regimes
@@Peppermint1 Well said.
but he could leave them on the summit
@@HardwareG33k It's a rather stupid comment, read both books before making such statement.
@@traubista6068 no thanks
It’s great to hear his voice, I feel like I hear it when I read his literature aswell.
Truly a hero. Rest in peace Toli!
R.I.P .Real life hero several times over .
This man was an unbelievable climber one of the greatest to do it , wish more people would read the climb his book and his letters to outside the truth is out there ! Anatoli Is a legend
I’m amazed at his feats, especially his Denali climb. Mind blowing.
I’ve only been learning about this in the last few months, but I’ve already noticed a few accounts of this tragedy either ignore or diminish what this man did, which is truly shocking.
😔
a supernatural man
a mountain spirit
a hero
Lol.. people forming opinions in the comments as if they have high altitude Mountaineering experience.. let alone climbing, they wouldn't have even seen a 8k meter peak.. the man did the best he could have.. he is a hero.. read Chapter 7 of Ed Viesturs book "The Will to Climb" to understand what that guy really was!! If one really needs to understand who is AB, then read "Above the Clouds".. Great Man Anatoli 🔥
cant find "Above the Clouds" anywhere :( have searched the whole web
@@leraabercrombie2765 You can get that as a physical copy in American Alpine Club. Not a popular book so hard to find.
@@nikhils8813 thats what i want - a real paper book but cant find it anywhere, Im in Australia though....
@@leraabercrombie2765 You could get it in ebook format and print it if you really want to read it on paper.
I work out on the TOP floor of my condo!
He understood that attacking needs to be fast instead of babhsitting all tje clients which will eventully lead to all their death. Dude knows his body survival capability and sticks to it with discipline. at the end of the day he is the only one who carried the rescue. such balls
Exactly, i think he knew with inexperienced slow bunch that doesnt understand or adhere to the guidelines, and him being without oxygen he needed to get up and there and down in a reasonable time, not wait for the the slow ones in the death zone. If he had stayed up and try to herd them down, they probably all would have died. Anatoly getting down first so he had energy to resque more.
A mountaineer in the truest sense
I have trekked next to where he died, about 3 years later, and the Avalanches could wipe out Major city with no chance of survival, Annapurna 4 and the others are for death cheaters, more respect to a climber that trys, but it is unreal, the human eye cannot even see the top through the clouds and wind of snow in the Annapurna, where A. B. was killed
Read 'The Climb' it makes that other book disappear into Thin Air.
Funny guy. 🙂
I agree. I commented up top that I had read Into Thin Air before but after reading The Climb, I have deleted Into Thin Air from my library. It's so wrong what he did to Anatoli. RIP.
😆
HaHa. They are both great books!
I read both books and thought for a long time.who is right-krakauer or bukreev.And I found the answer:Neil and Anatoly were assigned by Scott Fisher to escort all the clients to the summit of Mount Everest and back to base camp.And that everyone is alive and well.Neil and Anatoly followed the boss ' instructions..They're both doing great.If only they'd saved their boss, too.And Krakauer is also a good guy.He criticized Bukreev,and the whole world learned that there is such a Russian.And the more Krakauer criticizes Bukreev, the more people will know that Bukreev is a true professional and a hero.
Even Neil says that Anatoly was butting heads with Scott and his instructions throughout the expedition. Example: Anatoly refused to wear oxygen about camp 4 during the summit push. It seems like common sense that maximizing the time having someone so knowledgeable and strong on the mountain trying to help others would have been preferable. I think the problem here isn’t with Anatoly or Krakauer, it’s with the ghost writer and publishers of The Climb being sloppy with their account.
@@colinwoods9601 From what I read it seems like Scott would have preferred it if Anatoli did not use oxygen since they had a very limited supply. Anatoli said no, he wanted the same amount the clients got. So he received two canisters. Then during the push he felt good enough not to use them and gave them to other people in need.
Scott and Anatoli did have some conflicts, but they were mostly about how to better acclimatize people to the altitude.
I'll assume you're misinformed rather than that you're spreading lies intentionally.
@@BabyPrincess687 I had not "heard" that. If Mountain Madness had a "very limited supply" of 02, that is a terrible indictment of Scott Fisher.
@@BabyPrincess687 if he started out with oxygen and had to give it to someone in need why does he keep saying he was always going to climb without it? Cause giving your oxygen away is a much more believable reason for not having any...
@@colinwoods9601 Just saw an hour and a half interview with Neil and he said that very thing. Anatoli refused to wear oxygen contrary to the orders of Scott, And that may have complicated things on the mountain that day but he acted with incredible bravery and strength in saving so many people. Neil and Anatoli were friends,and he spoke highly of him.
Rest In Peace Anatoli!🙏🏻
Hero from Almaty, Kazakhstan, USSR. I reached Boukreev peak in Tyan-Shan Alatau mountain chain.
He is from Russia. He went to Kazahstan in his early 20s.
@@martinorav4267 he's from Kazakhstan 🇰🇿 not Russia!
@@tartarianknight33
He is Russian. The fact that he is from Kazahstan doesnt change the reality about his nationality which is russian.
@@tartarianknight33
Родился 16 января 1958 года в городе Коркино Челябинской области третьим ребёнком в многодетной семье (старшие дети Александр (1952) и Любовь (1954), младшие Ирина и Николай). Отец, Николай Васильевич, занимался ремонтом музыкальных инструментов, мать, Валентина Андреевна, работала в местном транспортном управлении, а позже в местном клубе. Учился в средней школе № 2 (ныне МБОУ «СОШ № 2» Коркинского муниципального района), которую окончил в 1975 году. Учёба давалась ему легко, по словам старшего брата, «всё схватывал на лету. Увлекался чтением, «…любил науку. Физику. По рекомендации от школы поступил на физико-математический факультет Челябинского государственного педагогический института, который окончил в 1979 году по специальности учитель физики, а также получил диплом тренера по лыжному спорту. После окончания ВУЗа получил распределение в родную школу, но «как-то сумел договориться» и из Челябинска уехал в Алма-Ату. Там же был призван на срочную службу в армию (1979-1981). По протекции Ерванда Ильинского, главного тренера республиканского ЦСКА и сборной Казахстана по альпинизму, получил направление в спортивную роту Среднеазиатского военного округа. Во время службы в армии заболел менингитом, из-за чего был исключён из состава сборной САВО, а врачи запретили ему заниматься спортом вообще. Тем не менее, сумел полностью восстановиться. После увольнения в запас остался в Казахстане,
They need to make a movie about him - he’s right up there with messner, RAW climbers...
Согласен
l like this guy! l have no reason to dislike any climbers, and l know that he was one of the best ever!
Forever been missed but never forgotten!
Ed Viesters book "The Will to Climb" has an entire chapter focused on Anatoli's last and fateful climb on Annapurna. Its a well balanced fair discussion on Anatoli...both the 1996 Everest season and what happened on 25 December 1997. Check it out....chapter 7
Thankyou.
Anatolii Bukreev is a real hero , he made unbelievable things in mountains, saved 3 americans citizens from the death, without another help and oxygen. Светлая память, Анатолию!!!
Boukreev is the hero of the Everest disaster. He went out without oxygen and rescued people, while Krakauer stayed safely in his tent. And yet Krakauer has the temerity to criticise this hero.
A hero that wasn’t soft and understood that if you are on the mountain, you better have come prepared. This is not school or training time. Jon Krakauer had nothing but praise for Anatoli Boukreev until the truth started coming out. Watch his interviews and talks right after in Boulder. Anatoli Boukreev was an easy target for Jon Krakauer unfortunately. “A lie makes it half way around the world, while the truth is still putting on its shoes”
His voice reminds me of Ivan Drago! 'If he climbs, he climbs!' Hhahah but no, I really enjoyed the interview. The real problem, as he has said, was money; the people who could afford it but weren't ready to climb Everest. In his own words there were mostly rich Americans who paid to reach the summit but had no real idea how dangerous it could be and how important it is to abide with guidelines once they are set.
AntiqueSpell he really was somethin like drago lmao,somethin unreal! Saving 3 ppl on Everest,without oxygen,during a bad bad storm...there s no way I can tell u how he made this...real hero! Put off my hat when hear Anatolij Bukreev.
Bravo undiscovered Hero
A Legend
TRUE RUSSIAN HERO!!!
He will be mad at you if you call him Russian. He is from Kazakhstan
@@sonny5196 he was born in Chelyabinsk, Russia. That's how he started the mountaineering. He moved to Kazakhstan in '81
@@sonny5196 He was ethnical Russian. No Russian would ever call himself a Kazakh even despite being a citizen of Kazakhstan.
I don't care what anyone says, Anatoli was a hero in my book...And a legend!
You wrote a book too?
@@petergianakopoulos4926 What are you talking about?
@@risingbull84 you said he's a hero in your "book"..
@@petergianakopoulos4926 LOL. Oh, I see. Yep, wrote a book.
@@risingbull84 joke is everyone who was on mountain in 96 wrote a book about it
Very humble! Fascinating to hear the perspective of a true hero.
This Russian guy should be remembered as a 100% Bad-Ass hero for saving all those people tht day... May He RIP Forever!!!
A legend
LEGEND
It was not his fault Scott didnt turn his clients around. Those people knew. 2 oclock is turn around time. If the had followed the rules. They would have been back at camp 4 before the storm hit.
Great guy love the accent
Anatoli and Scott failed to communicate to each other their expectations and understanding of Anatoli's role. Scott owned the company, so most of that is on him. Anatoli was always just being Anatoli - an incredibly strong climber, introverted, ideologically stubborn, proud, a proven life saver. RIP legend
one hell of a climber
A real hero !
So this interview is from 96 or early 97 because he died in 97 either this him or fake if it’s real great job gettin an interview on the phone round those days wasn’t really popular I’m 33 whoever did it were ahead of theh time but Anatoli is a legend in my book
Back in the days you had real hero climbers like Anatoli or Alex Lowe ect who died in real climbs , today we have celebrities' that die on Everest ,.....jumping from their Kilimanjaro to Everest.
For my money him and Rob Hall both would be on any hypothetical mount Rushmore of mountaineering both are heros in my book R.I.P. Both
Beck Withers is also a hero.He showed how to not give up and survive in all situations.And in life, everything happens.
"Hero" is a person who puts himself at risk, in order to save others. That being said, how exactly Beck Withers is a hero???
@@evgenidimitrov9703 because he showed persistence and a will to survive when he was already left for dead by the others. A “hero” doesn’t need to one for the sake of others, he was a heroic human being that refused to quit and succumb to the defeat which wiped out the others.
@@scarletmacaw This is not a hero in Russia. It's a normal state of things.
@@scarletmacaw a hero is someone who put themselves at risk for others, an inspirational person is like weathers.
The only thing I don't like is that Beck blamed a lot of other people for his own situation. He chose to sit there and not go down when other people encouraged him to come with them. He wanted to wait for Rob and he shouldn't have done that. He seems to point fingers now and that's not a good thing because it seems like everyone on the mountain that day did their best to help others and to survive.
Beidleman,Boukreev,Cleve Schanning,LeneGammelgaard,Sherpa Pemba,Pete Etans,Tod Burlesson all worked well in this 1996 disaster.As well as all those who saved the Taiwanese Makalu go and Beck Withers
RIP ANATOLI
RIP. Guy saved lot’s of people in his years.
one in a billion
great interview
I tend to disagree with his apparent refusal to use oxygen while guiding. Then again, maybe he has a point. If you run out, you're junk. If you want to get mad at some choose Sandy Pitmann who slowed everyone because a sherpa had to drag her socialite ass up. Or Doug, whose dreams were bigger than his stomach.
There's an interesting article about her in Vanity Fair that tells how she is into
shameless self-promotion . Very interesting article .
I agree, but really, the guiding companies are at fault. They are proper mountaineers so they know 100% that these people with no real experience should not be up there. And if sandy Pittman couldn’t make it up and needed short roping UP the mountain, no matter how much publicity her getting to the top would bring, that is a huge indication that she was not capable of doing it and she should have been made to descend. It should have been a huge lesson what happened that year but it seems even more companies with even less experienced guides are now taking more unfit people up there. It’s crazy. Anatoli is a hero. He has class, skill, integrity, morals and is highly experienced. Amazing.
First of all. Let's find out how much people were paid on that climb in 1996 for their job. Was it equal pay for all there involved? And who was responsible for that bunch of not so well prepared tourists? I don't think it was Boukreev's job to carry limp bodies down the mountain.
Anatoli is right about the blizzard - it was bad but far from the worst you will see on Everest. Rob Hall wasn't unlucky to have his expedition run into bad weather, he was lucky he got 39 people to the summit over several years before encountering it.
Yes!
A hero that wasn’t soft and understood that if you are on the mountain, you better have come prepared. This is not school or training time. Jon Krakauer had nothing but praise for Anatoli Boukreev until the truth started coming out. Watch his interviews and talks right after in Boulder. Anatoli Boukreev was an easy target for Jon Krakauer unfortunately. “A lie makes it half way around the world, while the truth is still putting on its shoes”
If there ever was a Rashomon Story it is this one.
I think he got pretty fair treatment in Into Thin Air. He was credited with saving lots of lives, but did he do everything perfect? No. He should have climbed with O2 (IMO). At the end of the day my perception was a net positive for him and he shouldn't have been so hurt by the constructive criticism, even though I know he was 🥺 RIP Anatoli.
Jon Krakaur has *'milked'* a lot of money from that year's tragic events on Everest.....and he has continued to do so. Which render his (so-called) opinions suspect & redundant. The money *'taints'* him.
Not to mention smoking Marijuana cigarettes in a Nepal hotel room after surviving a deadly storm.
Hell of a mountaineer
strong guy here
Anatoli was strongest Climber on mountain that day
Ed Viesturs was another strong climber at base camp with the IMAX crew watching with binoculars, pleading with Hall to “Keep moving “. He felt useless down below and I’m sure he had thoughts about the large queue heading up at a snail’s pace so late in the afternoon
@@moemanncann895 Ya forsure Ed was great and smart climber as well 👍
Most of them die way before their time, indeed he lost his life up there a couple of years later
i wouldnt doubt it kills slowly, as much as an accident as well. you cant drown your heart and brain.. that much, for so long.. hidden problems.. a hidden weakest link
He sadly died december 25th 1997 on Annapurna
@@theoneandonlyveganvampireq2450
1997
@@martinorav4267 I thought I'd put 97 I must've hit the wrong button 🙈 thank you for pointing out my typo error I shall fix immediately!
Boukreev was right about mountaineering. Only the strongest and most competent climbers belong in such a dangerous and demanding environment. His decision to be a paid guide was totally antithetical to his mountaineering ethos. Why did he break his own rules? Was it the money? Was he using Fisher's company to bag Everest? Guiding amateurs was a complete violation of Boukreev's core values.
Good point. I think Anatoli succeeded as a guide, rescuing his teammates. He could not, however, rescue Scott Fischer, whose drive as a climber was legendary.
HERO
jon krakauer coward
Many professional Mountaineers have the same opinion as Krakauer. Guides should be on 02. That includes Neil Bidleman. That's all John was saying. He praised Toli for his heroics on many occasions. I think much of this "feud" was egged on by others.
Anatoli's strategy was very good but questionable by Krakauer.Maybe he should have been on "O's" but what Anatoli explains in his book the "Climb" that he wouldn't be any good sticking around the Summit. The cold weakens the body along with climbing without oxygen and he went down first to reach base camp to warm up and be ready. It worked and he was ready, saving Charlotte, Neil, Sandy P., he saved his teammates and still had the drive even to go up to look for Scott F.
❤️
Wait...is that his voice? Or a translator?
I thought he could barely speak English.
It was him
It's Robocop (Peter Weller) lol.
💙🙏🌈✨💐✨
Stud
Is it true that he descended way before his clients ( whom died consequently)in 1996?
Desmond Mccallum
Yes apparently so,
No, all his clients survived. He went on a solo rescue to bring the stranded ones back to safety. He did descend ahead of his clients, so he was rested enough to help them later on.
He ascended ahead to fix ropes up the Hillary Step for the other climbers. Lopsang and Dorjee had been supposed to do it, but between their own arguments and Pitmanns nonsense, they had not prepared the ropes. Anatoli began his returned to Camp 4 just as the first few summited, then literally saved three people's lives and went back for more.
Wrongo!! The guy left the group and was the first one down to camp. He didn't pay for a dam thing only to guide and help clients. If he didn't want to do that he should have stayed home. The guy climbed with no oxygen how the hell is he going to help anyone!! Exactly. Yes he did save people but he could have saved many more if he wasn't so selfish. I hate to talk bout people no longer here but get facts straight everyone
Brandon French you have shown you either have not read any of these books properly. Or you have a simple dislike for Boukreev. In any event your facts are totally incorrect and your attitude even more wrong. Armchair expert and know it all it would seem.
I'm laughing at how he totally doesn't answer the interviewer's questions and instead rambles more less on the same things with his bad English.
It's a laugh from an uncultured nobody.
I'm confused why you think hes just speaking gibberish, he answered all the questions in an experienced mountaineer perspective. Krakauer and weathers didnt climbed again; and that's because they're not true mountaineers.
Смеятся можно, тут только над вашим коментарием и не более...
I'm guessing you don't speak any foreign languages? How about Russian?
While I don't doubt that Boukreev was one of the best high altitude mountaineers of his time, I am very surprised about the totally exaggerated opinions and the hyperbole which has been developed around his persona. To call him the best mountaineer who walked on the planet Earth, as I have read here, is abject nonsense! And I'm fairly sure that Anatoli himself would not have agreed.
I have the impression that his untimely death in 1997 in connection with his controversial involvement in the 1996 Everest tragedy, have sparked a veritable Boukreev cult! In the eyes of his fans he seems to have mutated into a superhuman being to whom the laws of physics and biology didn't apply, and who simply could do no wrong!
He was called as a best by professionals. Who are you?
just let people praise someone who did a heroic rescue. are you 20 or smth?
@@maggotroot , I am probably a lot older than you are ;) And that might be the reason why I do not like hyperbole and exaggerations. But may be you are right: praising Boukreev does not not hurt anyone.
Анатолий был скромным и правдивым человеком он не искал славы. Он заслужил этой похвалы, кто бы что не говорил. Он великий альпинист. Вечная ему памать...
He makes me sick. Not a hero.
Cause?
@@giyavictoria3747 Coz' she's a troll.
I love you Jon Krakauer!
The reason everyone is so upset is because Anatoli was told to and agreed to using oxygen. He actually carried a bottle and a regulator up to the Balcony. But then turned to Neil Bidelman and said, “I No need” then gave his bottle to Neil. So who really knows what consequences that decision led to up there. But for sure we know that he summited without oxygen but didn’t stay up there to help others down-he took off after 15-20 minutes when Neil was up there for over an hour plus to help others down. Anatoli was a great climber but he wasn’t a climber on this expedition he was a guide and guides are not supposed to take unnecessary risks for themselves when they are hired to guide-to look after others FIRST not take a reactionary position and then IF something bad happens he then reacts to help but claim he’s a hero cause he did what he did? I’m sure he is for the three he rescued but he kinda put himself in that position unknowingly..his decisions will always be under controversy that’s for sure 🤷🏻♂️
LEGEND, GOAT!!!! 🐐 Never forgotten always remembered ❤️❤️❤️❤️