3D Printed Molding Box System for Silicone molds & Casting Urethane resin parts

แชร์
ฝัง
  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2020
  • Designing and build a 3D Printed Modular Mold Box. The sketch, the bolts, CAD, 3D printing the box and assembly of the system. How and why it works.
    Ultimaker 2+ 3D printer amzn.to/380eI1J
    Ultimaker Orange filament: amzn.to/2YBvlNS
    Scraper: amzn.to/3cVIwQm
    Metric Socket head screw assortment: amzn.to/36xuIKO
    𝗠𝘆 𝗩𝗶𝗱𝗲𝗼 𝗚𝗲𝗮𝗿:
    Panasonic GH5 amzn.to/35ZeQgp
    Panasonic GH4 with lens amzn.to/2Nb5B7b
    Panasonic Lumix 14-140 lens amzn.to/2FOxYmi
    PANASONIC LUMIX 14-42MM Power O.I.S: amzn.to/2J3KsJH
    Manfrotto 244 Variable Friction Magic Arm: amzn.to/2X7YwIT
    Manfrotto 035RL Super Clamp: amzn.to/3dbPWyf
    Headphones Sony MDR7506: amzn.to/2ycntIV
    Samsung 128Gb MicoSD card w/adapter: amzn.to/2CcEFzW
    Zhiyun Crane V2 Handheld Gimbal Stabilizer: amzn.to/2NKp2kz
    Pergear Tripod Stand for Zhiyun Crane V2: amzn.to/2NaKWjK
    My Audio Gear:
    MXL 990, XLR Connector Condenser Microphone: amzn.to/3elRw1K
    Shure MVi Digital Audio Interface XLR to USB: amzn.to/2VzjgYa
    USB-C to Micro usb cable: amzn.to/3cfcrSb
    𝗠𝘆 𝗛𝗮𝗿𝗱𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗲:
    Apple 16" MacBook Pro: amzn.to/2VrAI0C
    Apple Thunderbolt 3 cable: amzn.to/3clTwVV
    G-RAID with Thunderbolt 3 amzn.to/2uQppFx
    LG 27UK850-W 27" 4K Monitor: amzn.to/3elxpk7
    Apple iPad Pro 12.9-inch: amzn.to/2K5qwp7
    Apple pencil 2nd gen: amzn.to/3elyisX
    Apple iPad Mini 5: amzn.to/2VrJzPP
    Slope stand by whip labs: amzn.to/2APaDSt
    Extreme pro SD card USB-C reader: amzn.to/3e4bNb1
    Apple USB-C to SD Card Reader: amzn.to/3cgGXeo
    ThinkTank Shapeshifter 15" Backpack: amzn.to/2Cc6U1F
    .03 styrene white www.ebay.com/itm/184252123854
    .06 styrene white www.ebay.com/itm/402018310594
    .03/.06 styrene black www.ebay.com/itm/184268703876
    𝗟𝘂𝗲𝗿 𝗹𝗼𝗰𝗸 𝗯𝗼𝘁𝘁𝗹𝗲𝘀 𝘄𝗶𝘁𝗵 𝗻𝗲𝗲𝗱𝗹𝗲𝘀
    www.ebay.com/itm/401616408360
    Arteza Products goo.gl/v9Lda3
    Arteza 24x36" Self Healing Rotary Cutting Mat goo.gl/qiXukm
    Music: end credits Rurlyok
    rurlyok.bandcamp.com
    Contact me through www.botzen.com for design work,
    you can follow me on:
    Twitter: at / botzendesign (@botzendesign)
    Facebook: / botzendesign
    Instagram: / botzendesign @botzendesign
    Botzen Design Inc.
    Industrial Design and Product Visualization
    www.botzen.com
  • แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต

ความคิดเห็น • 122

  • @Svensholmensvanner
    @Svensholmensvanner 3 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    Great idea. I can see it evolve with either quick locking mechanisms like latches or even zipties that keeps the walls secured.

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I like the quick lock idea, that's good

  • @BertNielson
    @BertNielson 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Eric, your timing is impeccable. I'm getting ready to build some molds. I don't have a table or band saw, so was going to limit myself to foam boards. I have multiple 3D printers though and was wondering if something like this would work.
    I love seeing the creativity and talent from guys like you. It's an inspiration.

  • @carlfogarthy6508
    @carlfogarthy6508 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Sei un grande Eric!

  • @petermoore9504
    @petermoore9504 3 ปีที่แล้ว +20

    Ive been making molds using lego bricks surprisingly strong and very flexible layout

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes, same concept but you don't have a flat bottom surface, and you can't remove the sides indivualy.

    • @petermoore9504
      @petermoore9504 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      @@EricStrebel Not as robust certainly, Ive only been using this for small silcone items. Ive been using large plates with flat top tiles 2x2 as the base some ridges but ok. Thanks for the creativity inspiration.

    • @TheZahnputz
      @TheZahnputz 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@EricStrebel you have to build the walls separately and arrange them like a routing template. 100% flexible in size, removeable... and flat on the bottom (sealed with hot glue)

    • @MarcusWolschon
      @MarcusWolschon 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I found Lego bricks to leak. Didn't work for silicone.

    • @TheZahnputz
      @TheZahnputz 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@MarcusWolschon cover them with clear plastic tape...

  • @johnkelley9877
    @johnkelley9877 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    That is a very useful idea! Those would be great to use for the silicone molds and would make casting a lot easier. Thanks for sharing this.

  • @RaoulEvilD
    @RaoulEvilD 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    quality of video editing is really over the TOP (content is pretty interesting too for sure)! 👍 great job!

  • @Aerospaceman
    @Aerospaceman 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Love what you do as I've always wanted to sketch like you do to learn cutaway illustration. Living in an apartment I dont get to do anything hands on with tools so I like to sketch. The making of silicon molds is very interesting to make project electronics boxes.

  • @andy-in-indy
    @andy-in-indy 3 ปีที่แล้ว +13

    If you did the design parametrically, you would be able to have the program generate new sizes by stretching or entering the size.
    I think you could add tongue and groove alignments to the 45 degree faces and use fewer screws. Seal the corners with blue painters tape to prevent leaks.
    Also, have you height registration stand proud, if you trust your 3D printer that far. They will be easier to highlight and use than a recessed line.

  • @keithspencersr.6806
    @keithspencersr.6806 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great build, hope a lot of people view it.

  • @individualone
    @individualone 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Whoa!🙌 3d printing at its finest!

  • @hagalazmultiverze3411
    @hagalazmultiverze3411 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Inspiring as always!!!
    Thanks for sharing

  • @ddegn
    @ddegn 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for another fantastic video.

  • @CutTransformGlue
    @CutTransformGlue 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is awesome, I love it!

  • @Simple_Machine
    @Simple_Machine 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great idea, well executed!

  • @obedeya
    @obedeya 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great job Sir - i love it 👍

  • @tcindie
    @tcindie 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    These are really cool Eric. I'd bet you could sell these, especially if scaled up to accomodate larger items.. I can see Adam Savage really geeking out over this.

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Let him know, I would love the exposure 🙂

    • @tcindie
      @tcindie 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@EricStrebel Sent him a tweet, lets see what happens :)
      twitter.com/willvincent/status/1312996917790547969

  • @drrobotnik5376
    @drrobotnik5376 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I prefer this to illustration videos, just as much fun 2.

  • @Creator_Nater
    @Creator_Nater 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Very nice! Self adhesive rubber packing on the miters would make good gaskets. You’d probably want to print the next ones with a shallow channel to accomodate the packing, slightly less than the thickness of the packing.

  • @sonicase
    @sonicase 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    not bad, and you could make panels with markers for double casting or whatever...i guess you could even connect a bunch of them for larger molds

  • @aion2177
    @aion2177 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You could use 5mm screws just fine. Interesting approach. Thanks.

  • @whatthefunction9140
    @whatthefunction9140 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I want to make something like this but only for the corners so I have use some sheet stock for different size boxes

  • @stephenstrebel8165
    @stephenstrebel8165 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Pretty cool actually.. well done.. bet Mando could have used these to build parts to fix his ship for the Xth time this season...😷🙂🙏👍😁

  • @DingoAteMeBaby
    @DingoAteMeBaby 3 ปีที่แล้ว +23

    Why no design 3d printed corners that use wood for the walls? Then you can have even larger boxes

    • @guyvagman
      @guyvagman 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Thats a smart idea! Thanks

    • @markburton5292
      @markburton5292 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@guyvagman could also make a wall that has the opposite angle that you can use to extend the side ( example /_____\ and \___\ = /_____\\_____\) then you could expand it by what ever multiple of wall/floor expansion size you want.

    • @guyvagman
      @guyvagman 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@markburton5292 cool idea too!!

  • @BenRyherd
    @BenRyherd 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Do you plan to do some parallelogram side pieces so that you can extend the width and length (in addition to already being able to stack the height)? or will you just print wider trapezoid walls to do wider molds?

  • @Cyan2002
    @Cyan2002 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is really cool! Is there a place to buy the design files to print ourselves? Thanks!

  • @repalmore
    @repalmore 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    If you are going to be using this one size allen wrench you can get a T handle wrench and by spinning it by the shaft and finishing off with the handle it might be faster than the power tool because you don't have to be worried about over torqueing.

  • @Vrx-yp1eu
    @Vrx-yp1eu 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    that's fucking amazing!

  • @KeithYipKW
    @KeithYipKW 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Would binder clips or clamps replace the bolts?

  • @justinssleeyt
    @justinssleeyt ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi Eric - thanks for so generously sharing your skills and experience with us!
    It's been about 2 years since you released this video. I'm wondering, what percentage of your molds use this modular approach vs the library of plywood molds that you previously used?

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  ปีที่แล้ว

      It's really just a matter of scale, it depends on what I have to mold and if it'll fit inside of the 3D printed ones. Honestly I should make some bigger ones. They work really well and I'm really pleased with how they snap together and perform.

  • @SimplyAlteringMaterials
    @SimplyAlteringMaterials 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    You said you're only limited to the size of your printer, well that's not true, because you've already shown it in your model in this video. Your printer can be the smallest one on the market, but you can make your finished model as big as you want, you just need to think outside the box! Happy printing!!!👍

  • @HerrHeisenheim
    @HerrHeisenheim 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I did something pretty similar a few months ago for the same purpose of casting silicone molds. I used FreeCAD's Spreadsheet workbench in order to automatically generate a box of any size with a set of parameters, which was pretty handy, but I plan on re-doing it in either OpenSCAD or CadQuery (which looks interesting) for my next project for even more flexibility. I've haven't used Fusion a lot (and I don't plan to given the recent license updates) but I don't think it's possible to set this kind of parameters unfortunately. In any case, your design looks a lot more well-made than mine, since I was only experimenting mine is a lot "lighter" in order to print quickly and cheaply. I used a combination of flat parts on the front and back and U-shaped parts on the sides with M2.5 screws, but I like your idea of having corners at at 45 degrees angle, it allows more reusability and flexibility because any wall can be reused on any side for bigger/smaller mold boxes. I might steal this idea! Thanks for the video

    • @darkshadowsx5949
      @darkshadowsx5949 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Fusion 360 really didn't change much. there was a lot of misconception about the 10 doc limit. but i still have 40+ docs that i can easily access. backing up all my files in fear of all but 10 being deleted was a waste of time.
      its still a lot better to use than any other cad software i used so far. having to draw each wall one vertices at a time is frustrating and slow. my modeling time improved 10x in fusion over something like google sketch up or freeCad.

  • @alejandrobunge392
    @alejandrobunge392 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Boxes made out of LEGOS work great too.

  • @reiner0609
    @reiner0609 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    With finger joints instead of mighter joints on the upright walls you might be able to overcome the length limitation from the 3D printer build volume. One countersink bolt going through the fingers top to bottom to secure it. This way wall pieces could be connected to each other to get longer walls.
    For the base plate a tongue grove system could be used to create larger bases than the 3D printer allows...

  • @peterkearvell1473
    @peterkearvell1473 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    It would have been nice if you had added the printable files in your descriptions for people to download and try out you would get some good feedback for changes and ideas.

  • @timothyharkness8489
    @timothyharkness8489 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    What is the infill?

  • @vibrion121
    @vibrion121 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Thats a lot of bolt and nuts! 😆 Are you planning some removable sealing between corners? (to avoid resin leakage)

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Not at this time, I don't anticipate it leaking

  • @johanaucamp6003
    @johanaucamp6003 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi Eric, great video as always. Just a quick question or suggestion. I guess one can also make the box from cardboard, before you do CAD, just to see if there was not something you have missed in your design, before you go to 3D print or manufacturing. Your thoughts on this?

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes, you could do that to check things out

  • @jraney69
    @jraney69 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    great design, I'd suggest smaller hardware. M6 seems a bit overkill...worth a try

  • @garagemonkeysan
    @garagemonkeysan 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great video. Such a clever idea. Will be very useful. Mahalo for sharing! : )

  • @aptech2933
    @aptech2933 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Nice! love it. What's your 3D printer?

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks! Ultimaker2+, link in the description. Very good machine. Feel free to share the video on social media, that helps the channel the most. Much appreciated.

  • @jimlad01
    @jimlad01 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the Video and for sharing your ideas Eric. I use a magnetic modular system, with 'L' shaped sides which are adjustable in terms of length and width, they sit on a large magnetic sheet and no fixings are required - neither is hot glue so takes about 20 seconds to put one together. I wonder if your fixed design could be hinged so that 4 sides fold together and then clip to a base, or borrow from the lego concept to make something more modular. What you have there looks very sturdy but perhaps those bolts might be tedious after a while? Just a thought...

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Magnets are pretty clever! Gosh I can see making a new version with magnets. Did you develop this system or purchase it?

    • @jimlad01
      @jimlad01 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@EricStrebel I developed it, because I got tired of cleaning up hot glue and continually making new mold boxes. I use foam backed magnetic tape for the side edges and side bottoms and steel impregnated adhesive sheet for the base. It's pretty cheap too. I tape the inside of the mold box walls with clear adhesive tape so don't have to worry about anything sticking and I try to avoid mold release sprays because they can interfere with painting. The L shape walls are common as you'll know in mold making and allow for a entirely adjustable system that can be re-used.

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Are you ok with me adding magnets to my concept, and giving you credit in a future video?

    • @jimlad01
      @jimlad01 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@EricStrebel I use this for my work (www.jimcheatle.co.uk) - I'm an artist based in London, UK. Go ahead and use it, no problems Eric.

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Fabulous, I will give you a shout out, and add the link to your site when I make the 2.0 version. Thank you for sharing your idea. The world will benefit from your kindness

  • @edwinhewson2354
    @edwinhewson2354 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Are these files available anywhere for download?

  • @eddietowers5595
    @eddietowers5595 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Wow, these are awesome. Also, just a slight size increase, cast them in aluminum one can make permanent cope(s) and drag(s), for casting aluminum parts. much like myfordboy did. Though, these are a cooler design.

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yeah, thanks! He does some nice castings, he had even made his own aluminum molds

    • @eddietowers5595
      @eddietowers5595 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@EricStrebel Yes, he has he's also gotten into 3D printing which enables him to make master molds of steam model parts for engines and trains. I just ran into your videos, and your channel seem very interesting enough to binge watch with popcorn and a couple beers. Yup, I'm hooked. I'm subscribing.

    • @eddietowers5595
      @eddietowers5595 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@EricStrebel Also, pardon my impertinence, please but may I suggest using (counter sunk) flat socket heads screws for a flush bottom plate of your modular flask?

  • @treysenzobell3299
    @treysenzobell3299 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I would suggest trying out some heat press inserts. They're very strong and make very professional looking parts. For this I probably would have used M4 bolts with M4 inserts.

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks

    • @abnews9633
      @abnews9633 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@EricStrebel stick with the nuts eric.. heat press inserts can pull out under extreme force.. the nut design cannot..

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I agree

  • @LifeGeneralist
    @LifeGeneralist 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Nice

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks for your comment and support. Feel free to share on social media. Much appreciated

  • @pearlaygriffinrider6979
    @pearlaygriffinrider6979 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    make a larger bottom and reverse angled walls that could connect it between 2 normal sides to make it longer or wider.

  • @mlune666
    @mlune666 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Why not share the box models?

  • @dustinhilton5401
    @dustinhilton5401 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    This may be a stupid request but could you do maybe a quick how to guide on how you do your 3d sketches?

    • @darkshadowsx5949
      @darkshadowsx5949 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      as someone who has taken a drafting class is really easy to do. there is probably some good drafting tutorials out there if he doesn't upload one in a timely manner.

  • @marcins5584
    @marcins5584 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    stl?

  • @chrisanderson6318
    @chrisanderson6318 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice work! You should sell the design files, I’d buy them for my business.

    • @GoatZilla
      @GoatZilla 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      You would.

  • @satchelsieniewicz5824
    @satchelsieniewicz5824 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    That is definitely a much more complicated cad model than is necessary

  • @gacherumburu9958
    @gacherumburu9958 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    👍

  • @whatevericall
    @whatevericall 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great idea. If we were closer, I could machine you some from HDPE

  • @BrokenCurtain
    @BrokenCurtain 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    8:02 Oh, is someone hyped-up for season 2 of "The Mandalorian"?

  • @KaitoKaze
    @KaitoKaze 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    "the nuts fit nice and snuggle" 4:37 proceed to hammer the nuts lol, but yeah usually the expansion and not 100% same as we design it, I usually sand them, if it like yours, you can hit the nuts and slide it, prevent further damage from hammering lol

  • @bernardtarver
    @bernardtarver 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    3:09 Brim, not a skirt. Plus, you should be ok printing w/o a brim, which in turn should reduce the amount of clean up. Using tear drop holes should further reduce post-processing.

    • @EgorKaskader
      @EgorKaskader 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      And 10mm fill lines can easily enough be done with a triangular cutout that won't need any support material cleaned out of it.

    • @darkshadowsx5949
      @darkshadowsx5949 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      tear drop holes dont look clean when you want round ones. it looks bad imo. and its better to drill out the holes anyway.

  • @bassalternative3173
    @bassalternative3173 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Can we buy the stl file?

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I'm considering it but I need to look into how to make it happen

  • @GENcELL2014
    @GENcELL2014 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Remake it with smaller hardware like M3 or M4.

  • @fenderrexfender
    @fenderrexfender 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    "I'm limited by the size of my printer..".if you dropped the captive nuts in from the edges you could alternate the parts back and forth about the 45 degree angle and make one large plank... or a slab if you alternate the captive nuts slots.

  • @thenamelessone123
    @thenamelessone123 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good video but that Ultimaker needs a serious tune-up! Those layers lines!

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      What’s your suggestion for the tune up....

    • @thenamelessone123
      @thenamelessone123 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@EricStrebel I sent mine back to Ultimaker for them to do it but first things would be checking all rods are clipped on properly (my plastic injection molded clips warped over time), rods lubricated, all hex screws tightened (especially the ones holding the stepper motors) and most importantly, checking the tension in the belts

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Ok, seems like good practice for basic maintenance of the machine

  • @macrumpton
    @macrumpton 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Why not just make the moldboxes permanent with tapered sides? and why do they need to be strong? couldn't they just be acrylic or thin ply? If they are tapered you don't need to take them apart. Just leave a little corked hole in the bottom to blow some air into it, and out it comes. You could make the mold extra large and just use as much height as you need .

  • @squatseveryday
    @squatseveryday 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video, would appreciate the use of your voice over mic though when you're doing your on-camera monologue. Noticeble decrease in mic-quality :-)

  • @terrain4print
    @terrain4print 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice design. You should get a printer that is a bit better though. ;-)

  • @bentebrunsvelt319
    @bentebrunsvelt319 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Super good idee👍👍🏆
    Can i buy stl files

  • @ThePietrekW
    @ThePietrekW 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    you should first calibrate this printer and fix the z-axis print problems, then chioce proper params in Cura

  • @rayzimmermin
    @rayzimmermin 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    a couple of things on your print
    that was not a skirt you removed that is a brim Skirts do not touch the model brims do and their was no need for a brim the brim is meant for thin models that need more buildplate adhesion so thy do not fall over during printing
    their was no need for the support in the horizontal round holes considering you just drilled them out anyways but just under the vertical round holes those were actually the only supports you needed when adding supports you should have just used a touching buildplate option instead of an everywhere option in your slicer
    if you were going to model in the fill lines as long as the lines them self's were recessed you would not have needed supports for them because it would be nothing to bridge there tiny gaps or you can chamfered them so thy are little v shaped groves and not have over a 45 degree angle again being easy to print without supports
    you really need to do some test prints just to test the capability's of your printer so you know what its capable of printing so you stop wasting material and time printing supports you do not actually need and can feel more confident in printing more complicated things without supports

    • @jdmsll
      @jdmsll 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      i was thinking a lot of the same thing when he said support was needed to add fill lines, but started off the print mentioning 45 degree angles don't need support... 😣

  • @GoatZilla
    @GoatZilla 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    LOL I knew you were in trouble as soon as you started sketching.
    This actually seems *less* flexible than just the overlapping-board assembly. The main issue is the fixturing, which you flat out didn't address. You started with screws and... went right back to screws. Did you ever ask yourself, "Are screws actually necessary?" Or "Does this even need to be a rectangular shape?"
    Also your printer has major issues with banding. First culprit is your z-axis. Your prints look like something from 2010.

  • @diterex
    @diterex 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Check out github.com/gregsaun/maker_cheatsheet/blob/master/3d_printing/techniques.md#clean-vertical-hole for great ideas for designing prints with vertical holes that don't need supports.

  • @T1g3rch3n
    @T1g3rch3n 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Get a bigger Nozzle...
    The Printing will be a fraction of the 0.4mm
    Swapping nozzles takes me less than 3 min or so...
    Coldpull
    Heatup to print temp
    Swap nozzle
    load filament...
    done

  • @knoopx
    @knoopx 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Vertical holes don't need support if you design them this way github.com/gregsaun/maker_cheatsheet/blob/master/3d_printing/techniques.md#clean-vertical-hole

  • @Uterr
    @Uterr 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I doing some molding too, but I don't really see, how can one use this box for molding, as for every part you usually wand to create its own mold to save some silicone, like millimeters matters

  • @ThePietrekW
    @ThePietrekW 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    You should first calibrate this printer and fix the z-axis print problems, then select the correct parameters in Cura. BTW, so much plastic and metal for basic little box, really?

  • @dickbison
    @dickbison 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    pretty cool, but i still prefer my big bag of bootleg chinese legos

  • @rstige
    @rstige 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    just a friendly tip. Glue on a glass plate is not necessary. Just keep it clean and your prints will stick just fine.

  • @TheZahnputz
    @TheZahnputz 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    sorry, but this is overengineered and in the end acutally not very versatile. build 4 separate (lego or duplo for best versatility) walls, align them on a smooth surface with overlap (!), seal with hotglue. your product looks nice and professional, but the concept seems to be way off topic ("for years").

  • @Michael-lo7sq
    @Michael-lo7sq 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Just use lego bricks. Fast, cheap, easy, expendable.

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Not very frexible for what I need, difficult to remove a side of the mold and the floor is not flat, not ideal for me

  • @Qwajman97
    @Qwajman97 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    It’s cool! But what if... LEGO’s

  • @fenderrexfender
    @fenderrexfender 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    that printer sucks duck its 2020!

    • @EricStrebel
      @EricStrebel  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      And you print with?......