…what a real pleasure to watch this unfolding right up close. I also try to watch as much as possible the work by KT. Both of you Guyz are thrilling to watch as to how you go about ‘fixing things’. You NÉVER seem (‘on camera’!?) to lose your cool - even with that valve seat broken, you just took it calmly. Thus, patience, professional temperament, Love for what you are doing, all key elements in this precision game. Thank you kindly, once again Jpd - most remarkable, entertaining and gripping. Beste ex ZA! To follow suit, most definately… 👊
Sounds like a lot of experience of what not to do. You are very detailed with your dialog and it speaks to your quality of work. Can't wait to hear it fire up for the first time.
Just discovered these videos, been hooked. J you remind me of my grandfather who I worked with for years doing earth work we also did all of own mechanic work. These videos bring me back to the good old days.
Now that was a very comprehensive look at a D343. I really enjoyed watching the entire series. I would love to try to overhaul one of these if I had you with me for advice and help. There is a lot of practical knowledge at hand in these videos. Sorry for the late comment, work has had me committed a lot lately, but wanted to set aside Sunday evening to view and comment on this video. Thanks again, Jeff. Jonathan
I've ran every pan ever made I owned a construction company retired now . Specialized in move dirt and Rock with pans Euclid wabco especially cats side of scrapers ran some 637Cs imported from England . Dw 10 619cable Dw21cable 621 621B 627 631cable 631B 633 641 651 657 491 cable with cable D9 . man told me your the best I've ever seen! no brake buliding roads in n.c mountains drinking stump hole likker to stay warm with the fan revs and side panel off we had balls of steel!apron all up dragging Rock to the bottom of those mountains hope you didn't get hit in the head by a flying Rock from behind .had a lot of friends got killed In those mountains .enjoy seeing you still running pans all we got now is GPS and stupid people that have no idea how to work dirt just a college degree in dumb ass engineering! miss the hay days gone forever thanks for your videos Sir ......
J---we need a guy like you to just live on our road and be a good neighbor. You're a humble and good man--very interesting videos you've provided, good to watch, thank you.
Near Abilene, Kansas, hot here in the summer, can get cold in winter at least at times. BUT---you struck me a s a type guy I'd enjoy getting to know, love your patience with things mechanical, and your easy explanations of things difficult. This us farming country around here--no doubt you could lend your experience to helping a neighbor out once in awhile. Good luck to you, congrats on weight loss too.
Is it really the prettiest town you've ever seen.....Abilene...... Abilene......prettiest town you've ever seen th-cam.com/video/t5l8CamP0ko/w-d-xo.html
President Ike's museum is there, great place--the rest is typical Kansas town. Get hold of me when you come this way--I'll pay entrance for you and yours to visit the museum, take you to our favorite diner too, the M&R Grill.
Here's a tip for a non-gouging gasket scraper. Used successfully in calibration labs for removing cal stickers without removing or gouging paint. Just cut like a one inch width hunk of plexiglass and sand a sharp edge on it. Might give it a try on gasket removal.
I never realized a 343 in scraper applications used air to air aftercooler. Was 343 in 988 aftercooled? 343 marine engines used 1693 water aftercooler with different top section to work with rear mounted transverse turbocharger. They were great in 58' "Alaska limit" purse seine vessels and as gen-sets. Not as much load cycling. Look up a D364. That was a beast. Slept next to one starting when I was 15. A few years ago...👍
this is a pretty good engine, i overhauled one in a srcr type generator set (very old generator with brushes) old but durable ,extremely faithful,,congratulations.
Ya did a hell of a job on that motor. Probably save a bunch of money rebuilding in house right. Parts are expensive enough, labor cost from cat is off the charts. Keep up the good work and awesome vids.
Thanks that was worth watching for sure. Not many people these days, know what there doing around old Engines. Buddy of mine can work on them. And does a great job on the cat's and old Cummins. But can also do the newer engines. So his shop stays covered up with old and new stuff.
thanks was great info your a true mechanic you fix problems just not replace parts and you keep very good track of all the little things that can get you.
Last 3306 I put together alot of parts were under vintage category. I assume it means they farm out parts production. Parts weren't no cheaper just visibly less quality and consistency
Same Cid as a 3406, being you mentioned milling a mass a mount off the block an or cyl HD till the riser bolts don't fit I never heard you mention shimming the cam blocks to line up the drv shaft, an the reason 2 cover bolt holes are slowed is so the valve cover will come off when installed in 99f 769B for one example
I've learned alot from your videos. What do you use for your rear main seal and wear ring? I have a 1693 in a 1973 Brockway that I have a recurring leak. Ialso have another I am putting together using your tips and I want it to be right. Thanks
bob whalen I will go find my parts book and give you some part #'s If you have a parts book, I am using the one piece seal for serial number 65B180182 only, its the only one with a wear sleeve, does yours have a retarder?
***** Mine is a early 65b, no retarder. I installed the Cat wear sleeve and have tried the large one piece seal and then then the smaller one that uses the adapter. Both have leaked. I'm going to pull the transmission out again tomorrow.
bob whalen 65B18182. If you use the seal for this engine you will have to check if the heads of the bolts that retain it will clear the back side of the flywheel, when I install this seal in a D343 I use hex head bolts with a low height head, not a cat bolt, and then I have to machine the retaining ring,(thinner) by about a quarter of an inch, don't quote me on that, use a straight edge on the end of the crank to check what the clearance will have to be, also factor in the end play in the crankshaft, this is the only seal with a wear ring, and you cannot get the other lip type seal to work with the wear sleeve that comes with the updated seal sleeve combo, I have tried, If you have a bad groove you can use a speedi sleeve but they are not as thick as cats and will eventually wear through, you can pull the rear gear off the crank and then have a machine shop either metalize or cut it down and make a sleeve, if you have the piston ring type seal all those parts are easily replaceable even when the crank is in the block, and if you have a retarder you will have to use the piston ring seal, I don't think theres any way around it, because of the pressure being applied to it from the operation of the retarder, the piston ring is brass so be carefull with it, also there will be a yellow o-ring to replace on the piece with the piston ring groove in it, get a parts book and you will see how it goes togther. If you need some more help private message me your email address, good luck Bob
Have a 988 non spacer plate stud block keeps blowing out cam box gasket where it contacts head is there a one piece gasket for this. should it be glued down? I would think silicone on both sides would slide out when torqued down. thank for taking the time to make this video
Are you talking about the bottom fence gasket, or the fence to rear accsessory drive? When you say blowing it out have you checked your breather, excessive crankcase pressure ?
Alexdiggingservices I've used Cat, FP Diesel, and Clevite. The only difference I can see is price$$$$$ I have spoken with FP and they make a lot of Cats pistons, My D9 is running FP diesel and has over 7,000 hours on them, oil consumption is a half gallon per 20 hrs not bad! Old Kenny has FP cylinders and Cat valves and the valves are what destroyed it, I have been using Clevite for some time now with very good results, A lot of Cat parts that are for older machines are junk, and they are not classic parts, they come in OE Cat boxes, It seems to be their way of discouraging you to continue using any thing they don't actively manufacture, Another huge incentive in using FP or Clevite is the warranty they pay for the parts that fail and any progressive damage caused by the failure of their parts, Cat they will replace the part that's it!!!! but in my expereince their most famous escape clause is "Lack of lubrication" I don't care what it is that will be the excuse, I should do a video on this, Go with a reputable American company or Cat if cost is not an issue, and read the warranty,
+punhoss Retort cement is used to seal coal furnace's and other very hot items, if the gap is very big it may not seal, Cat makes what they call "Manifold Sealer" but I've never had much luck with it, I will check what the brand name is and get back
Geoff why do run those 343 engines compared with a more modern or up dated motor? is it because you have them or are they a better motor then anything current.i would be interested in your comments.Any way excellent video an explanation by yourself,they be calling you Dr Cat soon.
Looks like you have done good job there, should last longer than the 14ltr series 60 detroit in my machine which is gatting replaced this weekend due to the oil and water mixing [only done 12765 hours]. Its just as cheap for us to put a new one in as a recon one, go figure that .
Wondering why Cat would put the air to air cooler behind the Hot Radiator rather than in front where the cooler air is? Or does Cat use a front blowing fan on this machine rather than a normal type
Great video series, lots of good information. We have a D8K dozer with a very similar engine, learned a lot from your video. Question for you - Engine oils have changed a lot over the years, what viscosity engine oil do you recommend for these engines?
We are using a straight 30 wt. year round with pan heaters for the cold months, Cat recommended 10 wt. for anything below 32 degrees and I have used it before, a very long time ago! I don't think you could get 10 wt. anymore, probably because multi weight oils have come a long way since then, I look at the total base number or TBN, Thats the oils ability to neutralize acids, most people are using 15-40 year round now, cuts down on the different oils they have to carry, I use 30 in the transmissions also so I don't want to carry that and a $3,300.00 tote of 15-40 also. If oil was still three dollars a gallon I would probably have more of the multi weight oil, we have a D9G and run 30 all the time in it, If we have to run in really cold conditions I will use 15-40
uhhh okay start from the beginning, I think I missed something, the dipstick is where? haha this is great knowledge to pass on thanks. some people are reluctant to pass on that kind of know how!
It doesn't need the bypass unless you were over 10,000 feet elevation, the trucks with the 1693 never used them, I'm not really sure why they used them, maybe they tested them at a high elevation and they were able to overspeed the turbo, so maybe in a mine situation they were necessary
Jpaydirt Gotcha so the turbo isn't capable of producing more boost pressure than the engine can handle? I'm used to cars where blocking the waste gate would end badly.
No, it's a safety for high elevation, as the air gets thin the turbo could overspeed and explode the wheels, so the bypass is a pressure differential valve using barometric and boost pressure's to activate the valve
Jpaydirt That's really interesting. And counterintuitive to me. I would think that thinner air would mean less efficient combustion and less exhaust volume. The internet is full of sites saying the same thing and I'm sure it's true but do you know why it is so?
Well if the air is thin there's less resistance on the compressor wheel allowing it to spin faster to make the same boost and at some point the damage will come, as long as the turbo is spinning it will keep making boost and the exhaust volume will be the same, but the turbo speed will climb until it does damage either breaks pieces off or burns the bearings up
Alot of neat info. Please no offense but you need to throw that orange crap silicone in the garbage...grey rtv would do such a better job...it dries firm and is oil and fuel resistant. That crap your using everywhere is not oil and fuel resistant and dosnt dry firm and really idk of a good place to use the stuff other than for exhaust flange gaskets that are pitted. Again im not trying to be a jerk but you would have so much better results on stopping oil leaks in these old dinosours with some better RTV ultra grey or ultra black! throw that old orange crap in the trash and never smell that nasty crap again. Just trying to help. Sorry if i came across like a know it all puke.
it's not orange it's the Red high heat, i've used the black before but don't remember the results, must not have been good cause I don't have it anymore, LOL I've used pretty much everthing and have found the red and how I apply it really sucessful, I've never had any of it end up in the pan or sump screen
…what a real pleasure to watch this unfolding right up close.
I also try to watch as much as possible the work by KT.
Both of you Guyz are thrilling to watch as to how you go about ‘fixing things’.
You NÉVER seem (‘on camera’!?) to lose your cool - even with that valve seat broken, you just took it calmly.
Thus, patience, professional temperament, Love for what you are doing, all key elements in this precision game.
Thank you kindly, once again Jpd - most remarkable, entertaining and gripping.
Beste ex ZA!
To follow suit, most definately…
👊
Sounds like a lot of experience of what not to do. You are very detailed with your dialog and it speaks to your quality of work.
Can't wait to hear it fire up for the first time.
Just discovered these videos, been hooked. J you remind me of my grandfather who I worked with for years doing earth work we also did all of own mechanic work. These videos bring me back to the good old days.
Now that was a very comprehensive look at a D343. I really enjoyed watching the entire series. I would love to try to overhaul one of these if I had you with me for advice and help. There is a lot of practical knowledge at hand in these videos. Sorry for the late comment, work has had me committed a lot lately, but wanted to set aside Sunday evening to view and comment on this video. Thanks again, Jeff.
Jonathan
I've ran every pan ever made I owned a construction company retired now . Specialized in move dirt and Rock with pans Euclid wabco especially cats side of scrapers ran some 637Cs imported from England . Dw 10 619cable Dw21cable 621 621B 627 631cable 631B 633 641 651 657 491 cable with cable D9 . man told me your the best I've ever seen! no brake buliding roads in n.c mountains drinking stump hole likker to stay warm with the fan revs and side panel off we had balls of steel!apron all up dragging Rock to the bottom of those mountains hope you didn't get hit in the head by a flying Rock from behind .had a lot of friends got killed In those mountains .enjoy seeing you still running pans all we got now is GPS and stupid people that have no idea how to work dirt just a college degree in dumb ass engineering! miss the hay days gone forever thanks for your videos Sir ......
Thanks sir
Well that's a hell of a lot of info there Jeff thanks for sharing that with us
J---we need a guy like you to just live on our road and be a good neighbor. You're a humble and good man--very interesting videos you've provided, good to watch, thank you.
Whats the climate like where you live?☻ After loosing 52 lbs I think somewhere warmer suits me fine LOL
Thanks for the comment, I'm glad you enjoyed
Near Abilene, Kansas, hot here in the summer, can get cold in winter at least at times. BUT---you struck me a s a type guy I'd enjoy getting to know, love your patience with things mechanical, and your easy explanations of things difficult. This us farming country around here--no doubt you could lend your experience to helping a neighbor out once in awhile. Good luck to you, congrats on weight loss too.
Is it really the prettiest town you've ever seen.....Abilene...... Abilene......prettiest town you've ever seen
th-cam.com/video/t5l8CamP0ko/w-d-xo.html
President Ike's museum is there, great place--the rest is typical Kansas town. Get hold of me when you come this way--I'll pay entrance for you and yours to visit the museum, take you to our favorite diner too, the M&R Grill.
Oh yah! I will for sure, that sounds like fun thanks
Here's a tip for a non-gouging gasket scraper. Used successfully in calibration labs for removing cal stickers without removing or gouging paint. Just cut like a one inch width hunk of plexiglass and sand a sharp edge on it. Might give it a try on gasket removal.
I will Thanks Doc
looks like you have done one hell of a job with it, can't wait to see it in action.
I never realized a 343 in scraper applications used air to air aftercooler. Was 343 in 988 aftercooled? 343 marine engines used 1693 water aftercooler with different top section to work with rear mounted transverse turbocharger. They were great in 58' "Alaska limit" purse seine vessels and as gen-sets. Not as much load cycling. Look up a D364. That was a beast. Slept next to one starting when I was 15. A few years ago...👍
No the old 988 A didn't use an aftercooler there only rated 375 HP? I think,
this is a pretty good engine, i overhauled one in a srcr type generator set (very old generator with brushes) old but durable ,extremely faithful,,congratulations.
Ya did a hell of a job on that motor. Probably save a bunch of money rebuilding in house right. Parts are expensive enough, labor cost from cat is off the charts. Keep up the good work and awesome vids.
Thanks that was worth watching for sure. Not many people these days, know what there doing around old Engines. Buddy of mine can work on them. And does a great job on the cat's and old Cummins. But can also do the newer engines. So his shop stays covered up with old and new stuff.
thanks was great info your a true mechanic you fix problems just not replace parts and you keep very good track of all the little things that can get you.
Boy This Is a Talented Man,,, Dangerous Work,,,, Heavy Work,,,,
Last 3306 I put together alot of parts were under vintage category. I assume it means they farm out parts production. Parts weren't no cheaper just visibly less quality and consistency
Yrs sir mr jeff ,you are the cat D343 man
Good series and a good job you done there.
Year this engin
Thanks
Same Cid as a 3406, being you mentioned milling a mass a mount off the block an or cyl HD till the riser bolts don't fit I never heard you mention shimming the cam blocks to line up the drv shaft, an the reason 2 cover bolt holes are slowed is so the valve cover will come off when installed in 99f 769B for one example
I admire you mechanic skill i can follow some of what you do
I've learned alot from your videos. What do you use for your rear main seal and wear ring? I have a 1693 in a 1973 Brockway that I have a recurring leak. Ialso have another I am putting together using your tips and I want it to be right. Thanks
bob whalen I will go find my parts book and give you some part #'s If you have a parts book, I am using the one piece seal for serial number 65B180182 only, its the only one with a wear sleeve, does yours have a retarder?
***** Mine is a early 65b, no retarder. I installed the Cat wear sleeve and have tried the large one piece seal and then then the smaller one that uses the adapter. Both have leaked. I'm going to pull the transmission out again tomorrow.
bob whalen 65B18182. If you use the seal for this engine you will have to check if the heads of the bolts that retain it will clear the back side of the flywheel, when I install this seal in a D343 I use hex head bolts with a low height head, not a cat bolt, and then I have to machine the retaining ring,(thinner) by about a quarter of an inch, don't quote me on that, use a straight edge on the end of the crank to check what the clearance will have to be, also factor in the end play in the crankshaft, this is the only seal with a wear ring, and you cannot get the other lip type seal to work with the wear sleeve that comes with the updated seal sleeve combo, I have tried, If you have a bad groove you can use a speedi sleeve but they are not as thick as cats and will eventually wear through, you can pull the rear gear off the crank and then have a machine shop either metalize or cut it down and make a sleeve, if you have the piston ring type seal all those parts are easily replaceable even when the crank is in the block, and if you have a retarder you will have to use the piston ring seal, I don't think theres any way around it, because of the pressure being applied to it from the operation of the retarder, the piston ring is brass so be carefull with it, also there will be a yellow o-ring to replace on the piece with the piston ring groove in it, get a parts book and you will see how it goes togther. If you need some more help private message me your email address, good luck Bob
Have a 988 non spacer plate stud block keeps blowing out cam box gasket where it contacts head
is there a one piece gasket for this. should it be glued down? I would think silicone on both sides would slide out when torqued down. thank for taking the time to make this video
Are you talking about the bottom fence gasket, or the fence to rear accsessory drive? When you say blowing it out have you checked your breather, excessive crankcase pressure ?
Jpaydirt
Is the fence to head gasket available as a one piece gasket?
No
Merry christmas, I have a broken 3406b and want to know if you use cat repair kit or ctp repair kit thanks.
Alexdiggingservices I've used Cat, FP Diesel, and Clevite. The only difference I can see is price$$$$$ I have spoken with FP and they make a lot of Cats pistons, My D9 is running FP diesel and has over 7,000 hours on them, oil consumption is a half gallon per 20 hrs not bad! Old Kenny has FP cylinders and Cat valves and the valves are what destroyed it, I have been using Clevite for some time now with very good results, A lot of Cat parts that are for older machines are junk, and they are not classic parts, they come in OE Cat boxes, It seems to be their way of discouraging you to continue using any thing they don't actively manufacture, Another huge incentive in using FP or Clevite is the warranty they pay for the parts that fail and any progressive damage caused by the failure of their parts, Cat they will replace the part that's it!!!! but in my expereince their most famous escape clause is "Lack of lubrication" I don't care what it is that will be the excuse, I should do a video on this, Go with a reputable American company or Cat if cost is not an issue, and read the warranty,
Greed, but old Is gold
retort cement? What brand do you like...? I have a leaky manifold on a Mack E9 can't get it stopped up
+punhoss Retort cement is used to seal coal furnace's and other very hot items, if the gap is very big it may not seal, Cat makes what they call "Manifold Sealer" but I've never had much luck with it, I will check what the brand name is and get back
That is quit the beast. why so many hydraulic pumps is that so you only use that part which is controlled and other functions can still run ?
Yes, one pump could not do the job
Lot O work! Thanks for the video.
Geoff why do run those 343 engines compared with a more modern or up dated motor? is it because you have them or are they a better motor then anything current.i would be interested in your comments.Any way excellent video an explanation by yourself,they be calling you Dr Cat soon.
pretty expensive to try and change over
Looks like you have done good job there, should last longer than the 14ltr series 60 detroit in my machine which is gatting replaced this weekend due to the oil and water mixing [only done 12765 hours]. Its just as cheap for us to put a new one in as a recon one, go figure that .
i need to have my brake saver rebuild its on a 3406b its leaking oil reel bad about how much will cat charge or how many hours thank you
Well the transmission has to come out first, I don't know what it would cost, but I'm sure they know, just ask for a bid
thank you for the reply and I love your videos @@Jpaydirt
Wondering why Cat would put the air to air cooler behind the Hot Radiator rather than in front where the cooler air is? Or does Cat use a front blowing fan on this machine rather than a normal type
It uses a reversible fan and we run them as a pusher fan 99% of the time
Jay font use silicone use right stuff or yammabond#6 paint and clearcoat no more leaks buddy
Great video series, lots of good information. We have a D8K dozer with a very similar engine, learned a lot from your video.
Question for you - Engine oils have changed a lot over the years, what viscosity engine oil do you recommend for these engines?
We are using a straight 30 wt. year round with pan heaters for the cold months, Cat recommended 10 wt. for anything below 32 degrees and I have used it before, a very long time ago! I don't think you could get 10 wt. anymore, probably because multi weight oils have come a long way since then, I look at the total base number or TBN, Thats the oils ability to neutralize acids, most people are using 15-40 year round now, cuts down on the different oils they have to carry, I use 30 in the transmissions also so I don't want to carry that and a $3,300.00 tote of 15-40 also. If oil was still three dollars a gallon I would probably have more of the multi weight oil, we have a D9G and run 30 all the time in it, If we have to run in really cold conditions I will use 15-40
uhhh okay start from the beginning, I think I missed something, the dipstick is where? haha this is great knowledge to pass on thanks. some people are reluctant to pass on that kind of know how!
great vid got any vids working on a 3408?
3408kid No, sorry don't own any 3408's
oh ok excellent vids though i really learned alot i love caterpillar engines great vids!
Thank you
Could you get jakes for the 1693's?
+AGDemo
No, because of the overhead cam design,
+Jpaydirt Yeah, I thought about that after I asked. I had a brain dart lol. Good video!
Crazy such an expensive machine is build with oil leaks.
Any video on that 988 loader?
+The panda bus fitter th-cam.com/video/8xwrIjuBt2c/w-d-xo.html here's one for ya
If you bypass the turbo waste gate how is boost controlled?
It doesn't need the bypass unless you were over 10,000 feet elevation, the trucks with the 1693 never used them, I'm not really sure why they used them, maybe they tested them at a high elevation and they were able to overspeed the turbo, so maybe in a mine situation they were necessary
Jpaydirt Gotcha so the turbo isn't capable of producing more boost pressure than the engine can handle? I'm used to cars where blocking the waste gate would end badly.
No, it's a safety for high elevation, as the air gets thin the turbo could overspeed and explode the wheels, so the bypass is a pressure differential valve using barometric and boost pressure's to activate the valve
Jpaydirt That's really interesting. And counterintuitive to me. I would think that thinner air would mean less efficient combustion and less exhaust volume. The internet is full of sites saying the same thing and I'm sure it's true but do you know why it is so?
Well if the air is thin there's less resistance on the compressor wheel allowing it to spin faster to make the same boost and at some point the damage will come, as long as the turbo is spinning it will keep making boost and the exhaust volume will be the same, but the turbo speed will climb until it does damage either breaks pieces off or burns the bearings up
Alot of neat info. Please no offense but you need to throw that orange crap silicone in the garbage...grey rtv would do such a better job...it dries firm and is oil and fuel resistant. That crap your using everywhere is not oil and fuel resistant and dosnt dry firm and really idk of a good place to use the stuff other than for exhaust flange gaskets that are pitted. Again im not trying to be a jerk but you would have so much better results on stopping oil leaks in these old dinosours with some better RTV ultra grey or ultra black! throw that old orange crap in the trash and never smell that nasty crap again. Just trying to help. Sorry if i came across like a know it all puke.
it's not orange it's the Red high heat, i've used the black before but don't remember the results, must not have been good cause I don't have it anymore, LOL I've used pretty much everthing and have found the red and how I apply it really sucessful, I've never had any of it end up in the pan or sump screen