need some insight...adjusted the clutch on my pan, pressure plate at 1 inch..adjusted the mousetrap by the book, new cable...problem is when i squeeze the lever and release, i can push the mousetrap forward about 1/8 inch. readjusted it again, same outcome...any ideas? appreciate your time on reading my comment. keep up the good work..
This is really hard to put into words. Pay attention to the order of things. Start by adjustint the clutch with no thought to what is forward of it. The angle of that throwout arm is important. Make sure it is adjusted to start from a far enough back position. Now, adjust the mousetrap according to the instructions, either mine or the service manual. I use a few different descriptions, but I'm really mimicking the service manual. Remember, just an eighth of an inch over center on the bellcrank. Adjust it until it stays in position. Loosen that nut on the bottom until that bellcrank returns on its own. If it doesn't go right, take a rest, go back to it and start at the beginning again. Don't forget to leave slack at the hand lever unti the mousetrap is cooperating. I have faith. You'll get it.
I thought I had it after I put the cover back on but when I went to the other side to do the adjustment the Clutch Hub would spin freely. I watched the video with putting on the New Style Throwout Bearing and that's not what I want to do as I already bought the Bearing, Rod and the finger. Everything looked good so I just put the bearing in. What am I doing wrong ?
PS the reason I started this is I did ALL the adjustments from another video of your's and it would not adjust at all. The clutch handle was like a Tough Man Competition
Something in there is not in right. I can't see it from here. Do you put the bearing on the pushrod and then put the bearing behind the kicker gear before holding the kicker lever while installing the cover. Not always easy.
Mike I’m a clutch person Too. My 63 clutch is 3 finger with Ram jet since 1985 same clutch disc those snap rings are hard to remove from the ram jet easy to put back on with your fingers then use a screwdriver what size are those snap rings? I tried to duplicate them. They’re hard to get at Harbor freight or any hardware store
I couldn't really see, but how much slack do you have on the primary chain. I set to the 5/8 to 7/8 inch cold freeplay, and it sounds like the chain is hitting the inner case when I get up past a certain rev.
Don't know what model you have, but you can run a little tighter. Set at the tightest part of the chain. Make sure you check for tight spots. You may need a new chain.
Thanks Mikes I really appreciate this set of videos. I've been into my 69 Electra Glide several times and the trans as well. I've had it since 88. It will drop into a lower gear if I make a sudden stop. The only other thing I've noticed is when on a hill front facing down you can feel the trans/clutch grabbing with a little noise. The frictions move well on the fingers. Steels slide easily too. The inner primary had been welded at the engine sprocket at one time. It seems flat with straight edge and feeler gauge. I have a belt drive. All else is stock with Barnett clutch. If you have any ideas, I appreciate it. Thanks, Mark
I try to show it all on the channel. Maybe the clutch has a little oil on it. Maybe your trans has a problem in it's ratchet lid. Like, maybe the springs.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks, It's been an ongoing problem with a couple of clutches. I went to the ratchet lid for one of the first fixes I did back in the 90s I even sprung for the orig. HD tool to set up the lid to the trans. Part of why I went with a belt drive too. Just thought if maybe you ran across this problem before. Thanks, Mark
Why would anyone change it over from a compensating sprocket to a solid sprocket? I know what compensating sprockets are, and kind of how they work, but to me they're "Harley Magic". My father said that it's for the differential force between the force the motor is supplying and the force that can be taken by the transmission/rear tire. He ACTUALLY said that 'it's for when you've got it tached way up doing a burnout, and the rear tire finally catches that it grabs at the compensator instead of on the body of the transmission or your bottom end/cases."
Great video thanks mike, a well setup clutch makes a night and day difference, glad to see we both use a few uga dugas as torque spec on the hub nut
Thanks, you know what I'm talkin' 'bout.
Thanks for the videos, getting my '79 FXS80 back together. Have referenced your videos frequently.
Glad to help
Thanks for stopping by it’s always a pleasure Mike, and you as well Mike. 😊
Thank You.
Another Great Video, Thanks Mike & Mike
Our pleasure!
Thanks for sharing and I wish you two a early Happy Father’s Day and Gods blessings for you all and see you on the road
And all those good things for you and your family.
Always love stopping by the garage have a blessed week my friends
Thanks for coming
Thank you for your worthful content and best regards from Russia 👍
Thank you very much!
Cool, very informative videos. Thank you.
I own a 1979 model Electra Glide.
Greetings from Norway.
Greetings. And Thank You.
Love watching you work, Mike.
Thanks for watching
Mike figured you'd have a bunch of them by now as far as I've been following you
I think over 340 videos.
Excellent video Mike, very interesting and helpful. Helps me with my 75 over here in uk.
Glad to help
A good video! Weather getting better. !!
Thanks 👍
Been here a long time, always thoughtful and very informative videos 📹
Much appreciated!
🙌🔥🙌
Thank You.
Thanks Mike...
Thank You.
Merci 👌👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank You.
Guess thats supposed to be Betty Page on the coil cover judging by the hairdo.Standard equipment on all cop bikes of that era
I didn't even think about it. You're probably right.
👍👍👍 Kjell Blomstrand🇸🇪.
Thank You.
need some insight...adjusted the clutch on my pan, pressure plate at 1 inch..adjusted the mousetrap by the book, new cable...problem is when i squeeze the lever and release, i can push the mousetrap forward about 1/8 inch. readjusted it again, same outcome...any ideas? appreciate your time on reading my comment. keep up the good work..
This is really hard to put into words. Pay attention to the order of things. Start by adjustint the clutch with no thought to what is forward of it. The angle of that throwout arm is important. Make sure it is adjusted to start from a far enough back position. Now, adjust the mousetrap according to the instructions, either mine or the service manual. I use a few different descriptions, but I'm really mimicking the service manual. Remember, just an eighth of an inch over center on the bellcrank. Adjust it until it stays in position. Loosen that nut on the bottom until that bellcrank returns on its own. If it doesn't go right, take a rest, go back to it and start at the beginning again. Don't forget to leave slack at the hand lever unti the mousetrap is cooperating. I have faith. You'll get it.
I'm trying to find out how to install a Throwout Bearing In a 1962 Harley Davidson Panhead
I thought I had it after I put the cover back on but when I went to the other side to do the adjustment the Clutch Hub would spin freely. I watched the video with putting on the New Style Throwout Bearing and that's not what I want to do as I already bought the Bearing, Rod and the finger. Everything looked good so I just put the bearing in. What am I doing wrong ?
PS the reason I started this is I did ALL the adjustments from another video of your's and it would not adjust at all. The clutch handle was like a Tough Man Competition
Something in there is not in right. I can't see it from here. Do you put the bearing on the pushrod and then put the bearing behind the kicker gear before holding the kicker lever while installing the cover. Not always easy.
@@pacificmike9501 no I actually saw on the video to put the bearing in the cover and wiggle it in which I did
Mike
I’m a clutch person Too. My 63 clutch is 3 finger with Ram jet since 1985 same clutch disc those snap rings are hard to remove from the ram jet easy to put back on with your fingers then use a screwdriver what size are those snap rings? I tried to duplicate them. They’re hard to get at Harbor freight or any hardware store
Mike. Instead of the
Bearing cage I use the 52 needle bearings for the Phil Ross clutch hub Clutch
Yes they work well. And Phil was quite a character.
Don't have any out at the moment. I think the fingers are three eighths.
I think they are 3/8".
Hey Mike! Does the transmission drive sprocket go on the out put shaft flat side out or in? On a 1977 F.L.H. Electra glide?
Flat side out.
I couldn't really see, but how much slack do you have on the primary chain. I set to the 5/8 to 7/8 inch cold freeplay, and it sounds like the chain is hitting the inner case when I get up past a certain rev.
Don't know what model you have, but you can run a little tighter. Set
at the tightest part of the chain. Make sure you check for tight spots. You may need a new chain.
Thanks Mikes I really appreciate this set of videos. I've been into my 69 Electra Glide several times and the trans as well. I've had it since 88. It will drop into a lower gear if I make a sudden stop. The only other thing I've noticed is when on a hill front facing down you can feel the trans/clutch grabbing with a little noise. The frictions move well on the fingers. Steels slide easily too. The inner primary had been welded at the engine sprocket at one time. It seems flat with straight edge and feeler gauge. I have a belt drive. All else is stock with Barnett clutch. If you have any ideas, I appreciate it. Thanks, Mark
I try to show it all on the channel. Maybe the clutch has a little oil on it. Maybe your trans has a problem in it's ratchet lid. Like, maybe the springs.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks, It's been an ongoing problem with a couple of clutches. I went to the ratchet lid for one of the first fixes I did back in the 90s I even sprung for the orig. HD tool to set up the lid to the trans. Part of why I went with a belt drive too. Just thought if maybe you ran across this problem before. Thanks, Mark
You just have to go through and inspect things until you find it.
Why would anyone change it over from a compensating sprocket to a solid sprocket? I know what compensating sprockets are, and kind of how they work, but to me they're "Harley Magic".
My father said that it's for the differential force between the force the motor is supplying and the force that can be taken by the transmission/rear tire. He ACTUALLY said that 'it's for when you've got it tached way up doing a burnout, and the rear tire finally catches that it grabs at the compensator instead of on the body of the transmission or your bottom end/cases."
Think of it as a "cushion."