Why would anyone change it over from a compensating sprocket to a solid sprocket? I know what compensating sprockets are, and kind of how they work, but to me they're "Harley Magic". My father said that it's for the differential force between the force the motor is supplying and the force that can be taken by the transmission/rear tire. He ACTUALLY said that 'it's for when you've got it tached way up doing a burnout, and the rear tire finally catches that it grabs at the compensator instead of on the body of the transmission or your bottom end/cases."
need some insight...adjusted the clutch on my pan, pressure plate at 1 inch..adjusted the mousetrap by the book, new cable...problem is when i squeeze the lever and release, i can push the mousetrap forward about 1/8 inch. readjusted it again, same outcome...any ideas? appreciate your time on reading my comment. keep up the good work..
This is really hard to put into words. Pay attention to the order of things. Start by adjustint the clutch with no thought to what is forward of it. The angle of that throwout arm is important. Make sure it is adjusted to start from a far enough back position. Now, adjust the mousetrap according to the instructions, either mine or the service manual. I use a few different descriptions, but I'm really mimicking the service manual. Remember, just an eighth of an inch over center on the bellcrank. Adjust it until it stays in position. Loosen that nut on the bottom until that bellcrank returns on its own. If it doesn't go right, take a rest, go back to it and start at the beginning again. Don't forget to leave slack at the hand lever unti the mousetrap is cooperating. I have faith. You'll get it.
Thanks Mikes I really appreciate this set of videos. I've been into my 69 Electra Glide several times and the trans as well. I've had it since 88. It will drop into a lower gear if I make a sudden stop. The only other thing I've noticed is when on a hill front facing down you can feel the trans/clutch grabbing with a little noise. The frictions move well on the fingers. Steels slide easily too. The inner primary had been welded at the engine sprocket at one time. It seems flat with straight edge and feeler gauge. I have a belt drive. All else is stock with Barnett clutch. If you have any ideas, I appreciate it. Thanks, Mark
I try to show it all on the channel. Maybe the clutch has a little oil on it. Maybe your trans has a problem in it's ratchet lid. Like, maybe the springs.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks, It's been an ongoing problem with a couple of clutches. I went to the ratchet lid for one of the first fixes I did back in the 90s I even sprung for the orig. HD tool to set up the lid to the trans. Part of why I went with a belt drive too. Just thought if maybe you ran across this problem before. Thanks, Mark
I couldn't really see, but how much slack do you have on the primary chain. I set to the 5/8 to 7/8 inch cold freeplay, and it sounds like the chain is hitting the inner case when I get up past a certain rev.
Don't know what model you have, but you can run a little tighter. Set at the tightest part of the chain. Make sure you check for tight spots. You may need a new chain.
![ทางเดินชีวิต - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ x อ.ไข่ มาลีฮวนน่า [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1f3wcG16dd4/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the videos, getting my '79 FXS80 back together. Have referenced your videos frequently.
Glad to help
Excellent video Mike, very interesting and helpful. Helps me with my 75 over here in uk.
Glad to help
Thanks Mike...
Thank You.
Another Great Video, Thanks Mike & Mike
Our pleasure!
Thanks for stopping by it’s always a pleasure Mike, and you as well Mike. 😊
Thank You.
Thanks for sharing and I wish you two a early Happy Father’s Day and Gods blessings for you all and see you on the road
And all those good things for you and your family.
Always love stopping by the garage have a blessed week my friends
Thanks for coming
Love watching you work, Mike.
Thanks for watching
Cool, very informative videos. Thank you.
I own a 1979 model Electra Glide.
Greetings from Norway.
Greetings. And Thank You.
Thank you for your worthful content and best regards from Russia 👍
Thank you very much!
A good video! Weather getting better. !!
Thanks 👍
Mike figured you'd have a bunch of them by now as far as I've been following you
I think over 340 videos.
Been here a long time, always thoughtful and very informative videos 📹
Much appreciated!
Merci 👌👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank You.
🙌🔥🙌
Thank You.
Guess thats supposed to be Betty Page on the coil cover judging by the hairdo.Standard equipment on all cop bikes of that era
I didn't even think about it. You're probably right.
Why would anyone change it over from a compensating sprocket to a solid sprocket? I know what compensating sprockets are, and kind of how they work, but to me they're "Harley Magic".
My father said that it's for the differential force between the force the motor is supplying and the force that can be taken by the transmission/rear tire. He ACTUALLY said that 'it's for when you've got it tached way up doing a burnout, and the rear tire finally catches that it grabs at the compensator instead of on the body of the transmission or your bottom end/cases."
Think of it as a "cushion."
need some insight...adjusted the clutch on my pan, pressure plate at 1 inch..adjusted the mousetrap by the book, new cable...problem is when i squeeze the lever and release, i can push the mousetrap forward about 1/8 inch. readjusted it again, same outcome...any ideas? appreciate your time on reading my comment. keep up the good work..
This is really hard to put into words. Pay attention to the order of things. Start by adjustint the clutch with no thought to what is forward of it. The angle of that throwout arm is important. Make sure it is adjusted to start from a far enough back position. Now, adjust the mousetrap according to the instructions, either mine or the service manual. I use a few different descriptions, but I'm really mimicking the service manual. Remember, just an eighth of an inch over center on the bellcrank. Adjust it until it stays in position. Loosen that nut on the bottom until that bellcrank returns on its own. If it doesn't go right, take a rest, go back to it and start at the beginning again. Don't forget to leave slack at the hand lever unti the mousetrap is cooperating. I have faith. You'll get it.
👍👍👍 Kjell Blomstrand🇸🇪.
Thank You.
Hey Mike! Does the transmission drive sprocket go on the out put shaft flat side out or in? On a 1977 F.L.H. Electra glide?
Flat side out.
Thanks Mikes I really appreciate this set of videos. I've been into my 69 Electra Glide several times and the trans as well. I've had it since 88. It will drop into a lower gear if I make a sudden stop. The only other thing I've noticed is when on a hill front facing down you can feel the trans/clutch grabbing with a little noise. The frictions move well on the fingers. Steels slide easily too. The inner primary had been welded at the engine sprocket at one time. It seems flat with straight edge and feeler gauge. I have a belt drive. All else is stock with Barnett clutch. If you have any ideas, I appreciate it. Thanks, Mark
I try to show it all on the channel. Maybe the clutch has a little oil on it. Maybe your trans has a problem in it's ratchet lid. Like, maybe the springs.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks, It's been an ongoing problem with a couple of clutches. I went to the ratchet lid for one of the first fixes I did back in the 90s I even sprung for the orig. HD tool to set up the lid to the trans. Part of why I went with a belt drive too. Just thought if maybe you ran across this problem before. Thanks, Mark
You just have to go through and inspect things until you find it.
I couldn't really see, but how much slack do you have on the primary chain. I set to the 5/8 to 7/8 inch cold freeplay, and it sounds like the chain is hitting the inner case when I get up past a certain rev.
Don't know what model you have, but you can run a little tighter. Set
at the tightest part of the chain. Make sure you check for tight spots. You may need a new chain.