You don't need to do that. There is and bent on your fuel line to prevent air from returning through the cycle. It's at the top at the end of the hose that goes to the upper fuel filter.
This doesn't actually remove the air since you are not removing the air from the supply side to the injectors.... When you put the filter and lid back on you will still be sending air through the system....
I agree, air will still be hitting the hpop in this case. On a 6.4 where is the most likely place for air to enter the low pressure fuel supply? Seems it could only enter from the hfcm inlet connection, fuel sending unit connection at the fuel line, or a perforation in the tube. After the hfcm, I think it would just leak.
Maybe I need to read what the official Ford procedure is, but I had to cycle, cycle, cycle, start, stall, repeat, a bunch of times before my truck would continue running. I started using this method, and I've never had that problem since. I change my fuel filters (BOTH) EVERY 10K. Bleed it a couple times, put the new filter in, torque the cap down and it fires up and stays on every time.
I see a lot of people saying waste of time. I actually like this method a lot. Call it an extra step it’s still less air in the system probably still a good idea. Idc! what’s a few more mins vs something that could be avoided.
Put a big pan under the engine and with the filter in place and cap tightend. loosen the low-pressure banjo bolt and then tighten by hand you have 30 seconds each time you cycle the key. Now before you get started have a 13 mm ratcheting box wrench and a small Philips screwdriver that is for bleeding the air valve the wrench is for the banjo bolt. Loosen the banjo bolt and tighten it by hand. Now cycle the key count as you have only 30 seconds Quickly turn lose the banjo bolt and quickly press the valve in the air valve stem then close the banjo bolt. You have to do this before the pump stops. When the banjo bolt I tight and if you still hear the pump you can press the air valve again but stop before the pump stops so you don't suck air back through the air valve or the banjo bolt. Keep repeating this procedure till there is no more air at the banjo bolt or the air chuck. This could take some time as you have to get all the air out of the lower filter don't have the banjo bolt loose when the pump stops or don't be pressing on the air valve when the pump stops or you will suck air back into the system if this happens to repeat the procedure. It's similar to hand bleeding the brake lines. This works. Once the truck starts it could run a little rough but the system should self-bleed if there isn't too much air in it. Let it idle it should smooth out. If it stalls don't crank re lead the system your close. It should fire up this time 😉🤪😊👍
If you use a fuel cap off of a Maxx Force engine, it has a factory purge valve on it. Ford redesigned these shit engines and guess what, they eliminated it and also gave it numerous plastic lines.
Primo mi troka le cambie la bomba de disel y el filtro de arriba es 250 6.4 la purge vien le saque todo el aire pero no prende tu crees que tenga más aire el sistema
Hey bud i remuve the bottom firlte and now it doesent start it is 2008 f250. So to drain the air what to do just remuve tha top filter tap? And key on? What about botton filter? Until drain the eir
Emilio medina guys I just had this problem with mine--I like an idiot ran outta fuel--truck lied to me told me I had 29 miles till empty- i didnt. Had it towed off the highway, but I had to bleed the low pressure and high pressure side to get it running. Ran like gog shit for 30 minites then smoothed out and ran fine. Scared the crap otta me
waste of time just do the 7- 8 cycles after you seal it back up. As Ford recommends. That purges the system and removes the air.
You don't need to do that. There is and bent on your fuel line to prevent air from returning through the cycle. It's at the top at the end of the hose that goes to the upper fuel filter.
This doesn't actually remove the air since you are not removing the air from the supply side to the injectors.... When you put the filter and lid back on you will still be sending air through the system....
I agree, air will still be hitting the hpop in this case. On a 6.4 where is the most likely place for air to enter the low pressure fuel supply? Seems it could only enter from the hfcm inlet connection, fuel sending unit connection at the fuel line, or a perforation in the tube. After the hfcm, I think it would just leak.
That is a total waste of time, Just change both filters and purge systems as Ford recommends .
Some guys like to blow bubbles. Some like to make money.
Donde se encuetra ramon tengo una 2008 ocupo reparar
The fuel drains out of the fuel housing when I turn the key off any ideas?
Maybe I need to read what the official Ford procedure is, but I had to cycle, cycle, cycle, start, stall, repeat, a bunch of times before my truck would continue running. I started using this method, and I've never had that problem since. I change my fuel filters (BOTH) EVERY 10K. Bleed it a couple times, put the new filter in, torque the cap down and it fires up and stays on every time.
I see a lot of people saying waste of time. I actually like this method a lot. Call it an extra step it’s still less air in the system probably still a good idea. Idc! what’s a few more mins vs something that could be avoided.
Respect 🙏
Put a big pan under the engine and with the filter in place and cap tightend. loosen the low-pressure banjo bolt and then tighten by hand you have 30 seconds each time you cycle the key. Now before you get started have a 13 mm ratcheting box wrench and a small Philips screwdriver that is for bleeding the air valve the wrench is for the banjo bolt. Loosen the banjo bolt and tighten it by hand. Now cycle the key count as you have only 30 seconds Quickly turn lose the banjo bolt and quickly press the valve in the air valve stem then close the banjo bolt. You have to do this before the pump stops. When the banjo bolt I tight and if you still hear the pump you can press the air valve again but stop before the pump stops so you don't suck air back through the air valve or the banjo bolt. Keep repeating this procedure till there is no more air at the banjo bolt or the air chuck. This could take some time as you have to get all the air out of the lower filter don't have the banjo bolt loose when the pump stops or don't be pressing on the air valve when the pump stops or you will suck air back into the system if this happens to repeat the procedure. It's similar to hand bleeding the brake lines. This works. Once the truck starts it could run a little rough but the system should self-bleed if there isn't too much air in it. Let it idle it should smooth out. If it stalls don't crank re lead the system your close. It should fire up this time 😉🤪😊👍
If you use a fuel cap off of a Maxx Force engine, it has a factory purge valve on it. Ford redesigned these shit engines and guess what, they eliminated it and also gave it numerous plastic lines.
Primo mi troka le cambie la bomba de disel y el filtro de arriba es 250 6.4 la purge vien le saque todo el aire pero no prende tu crees que tenga más aire el sistema
Is your fuel pump and injectors still original?
كيف يصل إلى البامبو والبخاخات
Hey bud i remuve the bottom firlte and now it doesent start it is 2008 f250.
So to drain the air what to do just remuve tha top filter tap?
And key on?
What about botton filter? Until drain the eir
Emilio medina . I have the same problem as you. Did you ever figure it out?
@@codylueck81 nope i have to take to the shop and get fixed
Emilio medina guys I just had this problem with mine--I like an idiot ran outta fuel--truck lied to me told me I had 29 miles till empty- i didnt. Had it towed off the highway, but I had to bleed the low pressure and high pressure side to get it running. Ran like gog shit for 30 minites then smoothed out and ran fine. Scared the crap otta me
@@mickthedawg4575 99
I have a 2003 Ford F350 6.0 diesel super duty. Having issues with fuel draining out of the fuel cup. New regulator, new filters.