2011 Kawasaki KX250F Part 1 Ep72
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ย. 2024
- Complete top end rebuild on the KX. Standard piston install stuff. Replaced the valve guides, valves and recut the seats. She runs but I give up...for now.
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Seriously? When I first came across your channel my immediate thought was another TH-cam wannabe. But I watched a few videos, and tonight when I seen the valve job I was totally impressed! Would love to talk engines with you any day brother! Great channel!
Thank you so much for your kind words. I appreciate your support.
Nice video! Perfect timing as I'm about to put the top end onto my project 2012 KX250F build. Unfortunately my top end was completely trashed so I had to order a new head, cylinder, valves and other super expensive stuff for the top end. I've got a pretty good handle on putting these engines together but always watch videos like this because you never know what you can learn from the way other people do things
Thank you for your feedback and support. Good luck with your build.
I’ve learned so much from your videos, I could watch these for days 🤘🏻
Glad I can help. Thank you for your feedback and support.
Found my new favorite channel! So much information and very well put together videos.
I appreciate your support and feedback!
Hi , RestoRooster
My son and me are working on a KX250 engine right now and i found your awesome videos , Super job.
Thank you for your feedback and support
The idle adjuster needs to be turned anti-clockwise (opposite to a carb bike) in order to turn the idle up, if you haven't tried this already. Also take the idle adjuster out and make sure its actualy moving in and out when turned, I had an issue on an 09 kx450f where the idle adjuster turned fine but didnt move the actual plunger in or out.
I pulled and went through the entire throttle body. Also, if I turn the adjuster just one click left, it will idle at 3000 rpm and not come down. Thanks for watching and for your comment.
Great video, good luck on figuring out the idle issue.
Thank you and thank you
Not sure if you are aware but the enrichment button is also an idle adjustment. You turn it just like an idle screw on a carb. Except reverse. Counter clockwise raises the idle clockwise lowers it. Hope this helps
Yes sir. As I mention toward the end of this video in my closing statement that the idle adjust knob doesn't fix the problem. One click more and it revs out way to high. I have solved the problem and that video is set to release on Sunday morning. Thank you for your comment and help!
Ok cool
Hey roost I’m pretty sure you remember trying to help me with my 14 model !!! this is the exact issue i was chasing… i have bought an entire new throttle body with map sensor and tps which also came with new idle adjuster in the throttle body. I just haven’t installed yet because i have cam journal issues as well, but watching you rebuild and have the same exact issue i think imma give it a go with the new throttle etc… This has to be issue or either a fuel pump rebuild kit!!! Thanks for your input and videos again
Hey Justin. Thanks for your comment. I did install a “new” assembly from a known good runner and it did not fix the problem. Because of other projects I haven’t had much time to diagnose. Good luck with your repair and please keep me informed.
Same to you man!!!
This diagnosis would help me tremendously, Ive been stuck for months because of this not knowing which way to go!!!! Love to see this update though
When it comes to the four strokes I rebuilt or replace cranks , now I have a retired engineer that worked for Kawasaki so he rebuilds my cranks using pro-x connecting rod kits , heads if there damaged to bad just buy a new head
I still have a bottom end from a 2010 kx250f in my garage. It blew up so hard the crank took out the trans. There was definitely something up with the stock cranks on these bikes.
I would love to show photos on here if it was possible
Oh, I’ve seen it before. See my videos 25 and 37
wow, how I wish you have a shop here in the Philippines.
Yeah man, that’s quite a way off
Greetings from Denmark, good and instructive video, thanks👌🏻🙂
Thank you for your feedback and support.
Excellent video, great work!
Thank you for your feedback and support
Another great video!
Thank you for your continued support.
Super interesting video, especially the cutting part. Thanks so much!
Thank you for your feedback and support.
Another great video! I have a suggestion that could increase your views and revenue. After making an hour long video like this one, you should extract a few of the steps and post them as a separate videos. For example, the segment in this video where you are cutting the valve seats is a perfect topic for a 10 minute "how to" video. I've searched for seat cutting videos in the past and found a few, but your demonstration here is among the best. That way, you have the long videos for people that like to sit back, relax on the couch, learn and be entertained for an hour as well as videos for people that just want to know how to do something specific. This is not criticism at all. I just think you're sitting on a gold mine of channel here and you can leverage the content you've already created to make dozens of more videos with minimal additional work.
Thank you. I love your idea and agree with you. I have done that with a few for the exact reason you are saying. Maybe someone is just looking for something specific and they wouldn't know that it was in this particular video. They seem to not do so well although I feel that logic is solid. It was fork rebuilding and such, maybe the topic wasn't what the masses were looking for. However, I pull that excerpt and post it. Appreciate the in depth feedback
Change the injector and the plug to a iridium spark plug will fix the problem and check the air filter make sure someone has not sprayed put to much oil on it or just dirty
I went through the filter and that is where it needs to be. I did clean the injector and it was spraying fine but it sure could be an issue. I bought a complete throttle body from a known good runner and will swap everything over to see if that is my issue. Thanks for the tips and for your support.
Turn the cold start knob counter clockwise till it idles.
Great tip, if that doesn’t work (as it didn’t in this video), then what?
@restoroosterohv wish I knew,I'm new to the FI stuff.
It was the valves had tightened up. Re-shimming fixed the issue.
Thanks fr helped out a lot I’ll just or a left 13
Your welcome
Brilliant video and a nice change from Yamaha 😂great to see more subscribers keep it up just heading out on my bike got me in the mood 👍🏻
Thank you for your feedback and support. I'm in the mood too but its 20 degrees. Too cold for my old bones.
Stay in Scotland so used to the 🥶 👍🏻
Excellent video thanks!
Thank you
Here's my question. Are these titanium valves? If so they have a coating and can not be lapped in. Only stainless valves or steel can be lapped. I always add solvent to the top of the valve spring area and hold the valve closed. I find that easier to see the leak and saves time, avoiding complete assembly of valves
These particular replacement valves are stainless steel. I never replace with Titanium, it’s just not worth it. You are partially correct about the Ti valves. If they are coated, they should not be lapped in. However, some manufacturers use an uncoated Ti valve (Yamaha YZ250F) and are suggested to be lapped in by Yamaha. The reason I reassemble completely is to do an air pressure test, which is not possible to do any other way. The valve may be sealing well enough to not allow solvent through, but will not hold pressure. Thank you for your comment.
I have a similar issue with a 2012 450
Starts, revs, drives, but does not want to idle. I bought it and the motor was taken out. Apparently PO wanted to powdercoat the frame but changed his mind. I will be doing similar checks as you (fuel pressure, sensors etc) hoping to find the issue before winter is over. And I'll be checking in for updates.
Great video!
I am going to replace the entire throttle body/ sensor package with known good stuff to see if that is the issue. Keep an eye out for that video to see if it helped. Thanks for watching
@@restoroosterohv I just wanted to come back and give an update on my 450. I got very lucky. as previously stated, PO took the bike apart but didn't reinstall the tip over sensor in its correct orientation. all I had to do was rotate the bracket and mount the sensor properly - all good now.
The ole tip sensor installed incorrectly deal huh? That’ll do it every time. Mine turned out to be I take valve clearances. I had to shim on the upper end of the spec. Problem solved.
I fixed my rmz450 shutting off. Wire on tip over sensor was rubbed by the throttle cable. Now I am still fighting the shudder in the clutch. So far have replaced everything but the throw out bearing. Waiting on order. Another mentality exhausting process. I sure hope this is it because I will be out of options
Good to hear you found part of your problem. When you say shudder, do you mean while disengaging the clutch? It probably goes without saying that you replaced the steels and frictions. I have had situations where the inner and outer clutch hubs had been warped.
@@restoroosterohv yes, it is like a notched basket. I have a billet basket. Replaced everything now except the throw out bearing
I believe you’re working on a 2014 model. That bike has launch control and the kx250f didn’t get launch control until 2014
I have that same bike
Nope, it’s a 2011. Not only did the Vin number decode this as a 2011 but it only had one fuel injector, 2012 and up went with a second injector in the airbox
Hi According to my Service manual, if you turn the Choke/fast idle button on the throttle body either clockwise or anti clockwise it will increase or decrease the basic idle speed, if you look close at the end of the button it does say fast low with arrows to turn it, I haven't seen what effect it has on my bike as I bought mine as a non runner with a split piston, however now I've rebuilt it and found now that the coil is naff, so waiting for another one before I can fire it up and then adjust the idle speed.
Your service is correct.
@@restoroosterohv did you get your idle issue sorted?
@mickyould5609 yes, see part 2 of this build.
Excellent job! I have a 2010 KXF, it does not like low idle too. Just a quick thought here, can the auto decompressor on the cam be messed up so it opens the exhaust on higher rpm than it should?
Thank you for your support. Unless you have a 450F, the 2010 is carbureted and probably has issues with that as far as the idle. The only way the auto decomp could hold the exhaust valve open past its normal rpm would be if it was sticking or the return spring got tighter which obviously wouldn’t happen. Even if it was sticking a bit, the fact that it is running, it is no longer holding the valve open and a few rpm here or there would be negligible.
love this video man, taught me some new techniques
Awesome, that’s why I do it. How are you doing on your channel?
@restoroosterohv9030 working to keep the shop going, got some content coming soon!
@feevahsmotorsports cool, thanks for reaching out.
I had an 09 kx250f would only run on choke, ended up having to clean out where the choke sits in the carb, and it didn’t have an air filter cage, filter was just sitting there, but yours is an 11 which is fuel injected so I’m not sure that would be your problem
Quick question I have an 11 it had a whole in crankcase I bought a new right side but can’t find a left one does a 2012 left engine casing fit or it has to be an 11 year to be exact
Unfortunately I can not speak from experience on this one. However, the crankcase part number (14001-0155) is the same on the 11,13,15 and 16. 12 and 14 are a different part number but it doesn't mean they wont work, I just can't say for sure.
45:00 There is a spring that is missing that holds the oil filter tight between the cap
You have a good eye. You’re right. The spring was missing from the previous “build”. It was replaced during this build but didn’t make the vid. Thanks for your comment!
Greetings from Poland. Nice job
Thanks for watching!
How mad does the wife get when you use the oven for engine work? lol
It's my kitchen, she's not allowed in. Haha. Thanks for watching!
I had an issue with the coolant temp sensor. It passed all testing but finally threw a code after months. So to me testing is never fool proof, just a guide. This caused a stumble in the power, almost a shut off problem. I don’t think this is the issue here. This seems like an air leak issue. Have you checked the crank seals?
This is a 4-stroke engine and does not utilize crank seals. I have a feeling that it is an issue with the throttle body. I purchased a complete assembly from a know good runner. We’ll see how that goes.
@@restoroosterohv it definitely has crank seals but less affected by leaks like a 2 stroke. It will be interesting what you find out
From what i've read, this was an issue with the 11 model. Hoping it's just a throttle body problem.
@@restoroosterohv can't wait to find out
Not sure on bikes, but on EFI snowmobiles throttle position sensor is out of range they won't idle or run correctly
TPS ohms and adjusted out correctly.
Nice job
Thank you
HI im about to set fire to my bike. same 250 2011 KXF. Ive rebuilt the whole engine after blowing up. wouldnt start after. checked the stator, which was dead, which makes sense all the chunks of metal flying around in there probably snapped coils. got a new stator and rectifer and still wont start. it feels like the injectors arent firing at all, everythings always dry. Ive removed the fuel injectors, tank and pump and hoses and connected it all together on the bench with a 12v battery and a 9v battery on the injectors and it gets a perfect spray on both. my thinking is, could the faulty stator have fried the CDI
You are saying injectors, like more than one…the 2011 had one injector in the throttle body, the 2012 up had a second injector in the air box. You need to test everything that you can before throwing a computer at it including continuity through the harness. I would verify what bike you have before going any further. Run your VIN here. WWW.DECODETHIS.COM
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@@restoroosterohv when i bought it the guy said 2012, its got 2 injectors, i cant remember the reason why i thought it was 2011 i think it may of been the frame number, this projects been going on for about 6 months now! cheers ill look into that, im a electrician but hate doing 12volt its so fiddly
Hey Resto, great video, teardown and repair. Question, are you installing OEM parts or what is a reliable source for say a piston/cylinder kit? Thanks for any info. Looking for a kit for YZ250f 2009.
You could do an Athena kit if you're not to hard on your equipment. This bike, I installed a pro-x piston kit and re-used the oem cylinder as it was in spec and the coating was in great shape. Thanks for your feedback and support.
Valeu demais suas dicas
Thank you for watching
Hell ya. U da Man
Haha, thanks
Is the magneto side lefty loosey like normal, or reverse threads? Are most bikes the same way?
Yes, counterclockwise to loosen. The right side crankshaft nut is clockwise to listen on the KX
Gotta ask, are you in the aviation field? Your thoroughness, terminology, and manual reading has me curious. Great video by the way
My only engagement in the aviation field is getting my private pilot license but I don’t wrench on them. Thank you for watching.
Yes
I have to knock some valve guides out. What tool do you use? I am having trouble finding a driver with the right OD and ID.
I use a valve guide driver tool, they come in a few different sizes. They are cheap enough that if you have to, you can modify the ID and OD of the tool to fit your application using a drill/drill press and a file.
@restoroosterohv9030 Thank you. Im tearing into an 09 kx250f and couldn't do it confidently without your videos.
Glad I can help, you’ve got this!
Real quick. When you knock guides out, do you go from top to bottom or the other way?@restoroosterohv9030
im new at owning a four stroke i need help i replaced the head gaskets now need timeing done 2004 kx250f the magneto has 3 lines on it 2 together 1 buy is self witch one do i line up for timeing so far have not found any proper videos on timeing your kx250f any help would be good
Forget the timing marks on the flywheel. Pull your spark plug, drop a straw (or equivalent) down the hole so it contacts the top of the piston. Turn the crank so that the piston is on top dead center. Rock the crank back and forth a little where the straw is neither moving up or down and you’re there. Check out my 2010 KX250F build episode 54 around the 33 minute mark.
Ok will try that I'll let you know how it goes 👍👍
We done that piston top centre the holes line up on the sprockets to the head but still wont start ???? Run perfectly before I done head gasket
Why did you do a head gasket? Put the piston on tdc and take a picture of the cam marks and the cam lobes and send it to Restoroosterohv@gmail.com
my son went through a river and flood it it took a few hours to get it running again then he went back through the same river and done it again so i went back got the car to pick him up he got it going a gain he road it back to the place we left the car loaded it in then a week later my other son took it out came back with white oil
@@restoroosterohv
Is there a deadman switch in the throttle?
No
What are your thoughts on the reliability of those year KX250Fs ? I have a 2012 and is been good to me.
Also quick question. When you installed the guides, is there any chance they could be inserted in a different angle and messing the line relation between the valve and the seats?
Any of these bikes are reliable if the proper maintenance is done.
Yes. They do not line up perpendicularly with the seats. This is why the seats needed to be re-cut.
Last one I swear. I've saw you lapped the valves, but those are not Titanium right?
@jaime7890 no, they are stainless steel.
I thought titanium valves should not be lapped
Coated Ti valves should not be lapped. These are stainless steel replacements.
Can you provide the part number for the seat cutter kit?
www.newaymfg.com/parts/KM2563
Yikes!! Guess ima stick with the stone cuttter lol
Yeah it’s pricey but precise. How do the stone cutters perform?
@@BAYAREAMX not too bad.. ish.. Only problem ive had is the drill that runs the stone is so torquey it wants to off set the seat. So we use a Milwaukee drill instead to control our speed. However Also after almost every cut you need to re surface the stone so you need a good diamond tip cutter for that, and lots of xtra stones. Of all sorts of different widths. But they come with the set. Getting hard to find parts for it now its so old. But does the trick
If i did this everyday id have your tool but we only do this once in a great while
@2StrokeSmoke544 makes sense. You can purchase the cutters and pilots separately and they come up used from time to time. Check eBay for Neway
Change the spark plug
2stroke much easier
Agreed
Dude. That timing chain doesn’t look healthy at all !
the problem is because it is a sucky ass 4 stroke
I grew up riding 2 stroke bikes. 4 strokes were considered woods or trail bikes. Now that I’m older (much) I prefer the 4 stroke bikes. I still get nostalgic and do a 2 stroke rebuild with the intention of keeping it but it never works out. I still love my 450. Thanks for your comment.
bad ground, bad computer
Thanks for your comment.
Как хорошо когда всё есть и ничего ненадо заказывать и ждать месецами .
Я делаю свою долю ожидания запчастей. Спасибо за просмотр
Another great video!!!
Thank you for your continued support!