Car Won't Start Old Chrysler Plymouth Dodge Mopar Won't Crank Starter Relay Check 60's 70's 80's
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ค. 2021
- Got an older Mopar that won't crank and you have a starter relay on the inner fender than this is what you need to see to troubleshoot the no crank situation, its pretty straight forward in its design so follow along.
Enjoy....S8E395
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This is the first of your videos I have seen and I hope the rest of your are just as detailed and well explained as this one. Thank you
Welcome aboard! And Yes I will always do My Best...
Well explained . Between 1970 to 1980 I worked at an auto electric rebuilder . Most shops would have flunked your test . Replace everything was their fix . They wouldn't look for the bad connector till AFTER about 3 starters were changed ! I saw few test lights , wiring diagrams were scarce and few had meters or test equipment - but they were ALL expert " mechanics " . I did purchase a Milton battery load tester , which wrre mostly used in the parts stores to test " bad" batteries . I was even laughed at for using it at a salvage yard . They used a TIRE IRON to short out the batteries ! If " Big Spark " = battery good = Fred Flintstone . Most shops were helpless with a wiring diagram . One simple thing I tell people : turn the key to start , if the test light doesn't light at the " S " terminal on the starter , your problem is BEFORE the starter . To get accurate results . the battery should be 12.6 volts or higher . Even today , some shops have NO CLUE what they are doing with electrical . And if you ask them about voltage drop testing , the blank stares continue . " The experts " !
And don't forget about looking for a battery drain,most shops can't perform that test either...thanks for the compliments and thanks for watching...
@@alyoungcuda Way back I had a friend's car . They sold him an alternator on a 1978 Grand Prix . It had a drain . I disconnected the alternator to remove the integral regulator drain and check for bad diodes . None . All the fuses were pulled . ( OLD School , you can now check for voltage drop across them without pulling them ) . I suspected the clock , BUT the fuse was pulled . I had to physically remove the clock to lose the drain ! It must have back fed somehow . I would have to see a wiring diagram . I don't know how many shops would do a parasitic draw test on a modern vehicle . All the latches must be closed and modules timed out to sleep . My electronic battery tester will test ripple voltage , for diode leakage . There is a way to do it with a DVOM . Some alternators are impossibly burried , like Ford Taurus V6 . Most shops and even some dealers are weak on electrical diagnosis . Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostic is top shelf . South Main Auto recently has a GM that the dealer wanted $ 3900.00 for a pile of parts , which NEVER would have fixed it ! There was a bad ground strap and he fixed it for a fraction of the price ! Some places are dangerous !
@@billsmith2212 dangerous because of a lack of knowledge, but also the way a dealership is paid, no one likes to spend time on diagnosis..no old timer will do that on piece time. I clearly understand that point but time is money and techs don't have that time unless they get a flat 40 hour pay
Holy hell this is absolutely excellent work. you explain things clearly and concisely, I can figure out why my car isn't starting in 10 minutes. Just bought a 1966 plymouth fury with a slant six, and i needed this. Drove it home and it cranked just fine, but when I parked it for a couple days until I could get it registered and insured, it doesn't want to crank at all, just clicking really.
Thanks for watching..
I just wanna say thank you bro I'm no mechanic just picked up my first old school car 69 Plymouth fury 3 I needed to see this thank u
No problem, thanks for watching too...
Thank you for your clear and precise explanation. Now I am able to take my 75 Valiant Charger to the car show 😜
@@amarramnarain2813 that's cool, and that's an awesome car...
My relay went out in my '77 Aspen, and this video helped me understand how to check/bypass the relay more then Google could. Thanks for the indepth explanation! I was able to get this car started so I could head to the parts store to replace it
Thanks for the compliments and thanks for watching my video..
I've had a 74 plymouth Duster that's been sitting for about 6 years minimum that I got working and then the following day the steering column started smoking after attempting to start it a few times with no crank. Because of this video, I think I know where to look for the source of the problem! Thank you!
You're welcome, post what you find and Thanks for Watching
You are the man. Since i wasnt born till 16 years after my car was built I was trying to wrap my head around figuring out what does what today. My valiant wont crank by the key anymore so this is amazing. Thank you thank you thank you! I thought the yellow had power when the key was on but makes total sense that its on crank only! Duh lol hopefully its not my ignition switch
Could be the connector under the steering column, the pins and wires burn out.
That was an extremely helpful and well explained video. Thank you for posting it. I just had to subscribe!
Thanks for the compliments and welcome to my channel...
Thanks Al, This is Exactly My problem on My '66 Polara. You Explained the Relay process Great. Thank you Bro!
Glad it worked out for you and I love the Polara...thanks for watching too...
Awesome presentation! Thanks for all the hard work!
You're welcome...thanks for watching
After using a remote starter for the past way too long, I watched your video several times. The NSS wire at the starter relay did not trigger the light. Got under the car and found the other end of the wire hanging out in the neighborhood of the NSS. Connected wire to middle prong and got several clicks with the key. Cleaned the ends and wellah. IGNITION !!! 😃 Thanks so much.
Alright, glad it worked out for you and thanks for watching...
Thanks so much for a great and informative video, you helped me determine my non cranking 63 Polara has a bad neutral safety switch, 5 star video, Hooray!!!!!!
I'm glad it worked out for you..and thanks for watching...
Thank you for the walk through on the functions and diagnostic steps for the relay. A life saver.
Thanks for the compliments and thanks for watching...
I thank you sir for your knowledge. Your video helped tremendously.
That's great to hear and thanks for watching too...
Just what I was looking for! Thank you for making this video. Now I just have to figure out what numbers on a relay that each wire goes to (30,85,86,87). 30 is the bigger red wire to the battery, 85 is the ground, so I got those two...
Not sure if a Bosch relay is gonna be strong enough for a chrysler starter relay replacement..30 and 87 go together. 30 is the battery, 87 is the source you want powered after the 85 the ground and 87 the trigger will engage the coil to complete the circuit and pull down and trigger the 30 power to go to the 86 source...
Great video and awesome explanation my 69 dart today gave me a dead nothing after i pumped gas and turned the key i kept trying and trying and bam it suddenly woke up.. i will run these tests and love what you did here educating us all. Big fat thank you!!! Any chance u can do the same for the voltage regulator? I just wanna learn as much as i can about these cars now that i have one.. also if i jump the wires on this switch the car cranks so if my key unit is the problem i should be able to leave it in the on position and jump the switch to crank and start the car right??
When you say jump the switch you mean jump the starter relay, then yes..check the terminal crimps that grab the wire..they tend to break off strands of wire..have to look close and wire brush the connections..Voltage regulator is a good idea, I will keep that in mind...Thanks for Watching
Great job on explaining
Thank you and thanks for watching too...
The wire from the starter relay into the car goes to the AMP meter. It fails and then nothing works.
Just watched your video I learned so much thank you. I hope you can help me with this one thing tho. When testing the Parking/ Neutral my light turned on but very dimly. Any sugestion to why that is
I'm going to say that the connector at the neutral safety switch is not making a good tight connection or its dirty with dirt or oil...over time like any connector terminal it will spread open..still making contact but not tight.think of it like holding a baseball bat..you can grip it tight or just grab it enough to hold it. It should be tight.
And Thanks for Watching...
Great video.... Thank you....
You're welcome and thanks for watching too...
Wonderful dude.. thank you..
You're welcome, hope it helped you out or at least explained the workings of the system...and thanks for watching.
Thank you very much for taking the time to share this with us. For me this is a refresher course as I used to be a mechanic in the military and learned all this stuff but, changing careers to metalworking and welding now for over 40 years, ones memory...well you know!
My question is I recently picked up a T/A Challenger that was about 2500 miles from my place and had the owner for it up over the phone and no problem, however when I got to his place a few weeks later with truck and trailer, the car would crank and start, but the instant you let go of the key from the start position to the run position the car would die..
I picked up the car anyway, and started investigating with a friend, (former mechanic as well) we decided it was the ignition switch. After changing that, car did the exact same thing...could it be the starter relay that you covered so well? Or do I need to look at the coil or the ballast resistor etc?
After seeing this video, I figured you are the guy to ask...
I've had the car since May and now have components to restore the bulkhead (Evan's Wiring, Pa.) And as of yesterday, got a whole new underdash wiring harness from Classic industries, but I have yet to get my new baby up and running so I can drive it!☹
Any help would be absolutely appreciated at the highest level! Thank you,
Razor!
Sounds like ballast resistor to me..still points or electronic ignition?
@@alyoungcuda
Thank you so much for getting back.
It does have the electronic ignition.
@@razorworks9942 that should be your problem since you did say you changed the ignition switch..the electrical part and not the key part..also the fuse box connection bet the inside and outside box could have a little corrosion..and a bad connection
@@alyoungcuda
I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help..I will be going through my entire electrical system and replacing whatever needs replacing. I hopefully will be able to resolve any issues and if I have any questions can I reach out again?
@@razorworks9942 sure..so remember the car has a start/ crank circuit and then the run circuit..the run circuit when defective will start the car but will die the moment you release the key.
2 minutes in I'm like dam this is informative 👍🙏
Thanks for watching...
My 73 Dodge Dart starter relay passes all these tests but still will not attempt to crank. You can jump the relay and get starter to crank. Replaced relay and motor still will not crank at all. Battery is brand new. Any ideas on what to check to get it to crank? I triple checked everything you said in the video. Thank you for your time
If you can get the relay to crank by jumping it than the secondary part of the relay works, the only part is the primary which is the yellow wire from the ignition key and ground from the relay which is from the neutral safety switch. So eliminate the nss switch by disconnecting the wire, hook up or connect a wire to ground and try to start it.if it starts, its the nss switch wiring to the switch or a bad switch. If it doesn't start with the nss switch grounded, you need to check the yellow wire for voltage coming in from the ignition switch, you might get power to light up the test lamp but not enough amps to ignite the relay..you can hook up a wire from the ignition plug on the relay and touch the positive battery terminal and it should crank because you now powered the relay, the ground is jumped and its the same as jumping the relay..like I said to power the relay, you need a good ground and power from the ignition..bad connections at the nss switch plug is also a problem in older cars or they are slightly unplugged.
Ok.. during my Swap.. to 318 and get her started.. she would fire up, run, after fire, stumble and quit, crank and crank.. fire up and run.... Then repeat.. misfire stumble and die.. checked everything.. etc . Replaced as needed,, rebuilt Distributor.. running points like my Slant6.. "Set Screw" for Points Gap.. would hold then slip.. cam on distributor shaft, while cranking.. would push gap open, enough to start,, .. had Cap off.. dusk,, blue spark, then Nothing.. wish i could've met dude who rebuilt it ..
Eventually went to Petronix swap . 9 years ago.. just sharing . Like we all should ... Keep on wrenching folk's.. they all want to Run..
Petronix is the way to go or a factory electronic ignition, but I want to change out my distributor gear, don't want to wait till it breaks...
Great job, thank you so much. BUT I have the opposite problem. My 1981 dodge W150 Pickup starts perfect, but the starter does not disconnect. When i disconnect the batterie it stops, when i connect the cable back on it starts even without key. The engine is running, and the starter is still in and starting. I checked the starter outside the car, and it works perfect. I replaced the ignition switch and the key lock in the steering column. still the same. A few weeks ago, i replace the relays next to the batterie. So, is it the relays again?? Thanks for any help. Juergen Zimmermann
Thats easy to check..at the relay when the car starts the power goes from the battery cable terminal to the starter terminal and it should have no power once its started and the yellow wire coming from inside the cabin should have no power after it starts. If it has power the yellow wire than that's what is making the relay crank the starter..instead of pulling the battery cable, pull the yellow wire off it should stop, if not then the relay is stuck on and its shot..if pulling the yellow wire stops the starter then its a problem inside
My 85 d159 just clicks when turning the key, when i leave key in run position and hook remote starter switch to positive battery cable and solenoid terminal on relay and push remote switch it fires right up, so its probably the relay? ill try your test procedure, thanks
Technically you are bypassing the relay with the remote so that shows the battery and starter is good,now you want to test the other 2 terminals for power from the ignition switch and a ground from the transmission or clutch switch if its a manual. If those 2 check out, then its a bad relay..but check the 2 connectors, the wire might be hanging by a tread inside the crimp in the plastic connector that is just worn out..
Can a bad starter relay cause my truck to not shut off with the key turned to off position?
No, starter relay is just that, to start the truck..a bad relay can go bad in 2 ways only, it can not start the truck like a dead battery or starter. The other way is that it gets stuck and it engages the starter while it is started and running..sounds like you have a bad ignition switch.
Well explained, easy to fallow, in my Ownership of Mopar A Bodies, ive said, i believe ive had every starting issue so far haha..
Twin 68 Darts model 270, California built, hers is still Slant6 mine when we found it, gave up the ghost, yes some Slant6 do die, so i couldn't refuse deal, 300 bucks for 318 with A904 from non numbers matching 67 Dart,, fellow A Body owner you know like most of us, its a Mopar thing, plus an A body thing, my car has 87k on swap.. Daily driver everyday and everywhere.. weather permits this here ... Keep at it, amd Keep on Wrenching Folks...
@∅ cheers from Huntington Beach CA..
That's awesome. Let's keep the A body's alive...
To be sure, the relay on your car that you demonstrated with was known to be good, right? Also, can a bad relay still be jumped with a screwdriver...hot to solenoid? Thanks
Yes the relay I show is an original one still working from 1969 with only 42k miles and yes you can jump the relay as you said to start the car..but make sure the shifter is in park or neutral because you will bypass that part of the system by jumping it and if it starts it will roll in drive or reverse and kill someone..
My 1972 dodge motor home wouldn’t start until I installed a new starter relay switch. It worked for a few days and no start again. So I put a new starter relay switch again. Today, after a few days, it failed. Why does it burn so many starter relay switches? Thank you.
Unless you definitely test them, I don't think the relays are the problem, I would suspect the connections especially the plug in connector, the actual metal terminal and the crimp to the wire..if you remove the plastic connector off the terminal ,I'm betting on the strands of wire crimped..this was a problem on a car I worked on, once I removed the terminal, a close look and I found only 2 wires crimped out of the 8 strands of wire..once touched, it made a connection until the next time when it wouldn't start.. its a simple relay, 12 volt power coming in from the battery, other side is 12volt power to the starter..the 2 smaller wires is what activates the relay..1 is power coming in from the ignition, the other is the ground from the neutral safety switch.
Before you swap out another relay, do your homework, try to shift the dodge into other gears, try to start it in neutral, park..if it starts by just doing that, its the neutral safety switch or the plug connector ather at the transmission..so basically you will look at 2 things, power coming in to the relay when you turn the ignition to start and a ground on the other terminal to complete the circuit in order to make the 2 12 volt battery wires connect.. Try it and let me know what you find..some people found the plug loose on the switch on the transmission...
Starter Bendix operates but starter won’t turn, just slow clicks.
Starter is new, battery is not, but the truck does same thing with jumper battery attached, engine just won’t turn over.
Is it possible it’s the relay?
Or what else to check, any ideas appreciated!
Battery is bad..the battery terminals are good..cables to them are good? A jumper battery power still has to travel thru the bad battery..if its shorted or stone dead it will not allow it to go thru..sometimes on a stone dead battery the jumper cables from another car will have to stay connected for over 20 min to 30 minutes to charge it up..and when you say jumper battery its not a jumper pack..those are not strong enough for a dead battery..use a good running charging car or truck
@@alyoungcuda thank you! Will go for new battery, just didn’t want to keep throwing parts at it. Had used a battery charger on it, then jumped off running car. Will try new battery. Great video from you, ‘87 Dodge D150
I never new the one was the ground. I am not a wiring Guy:(. I will try to see if that's my problem as to my 68 Barracuda will not crank with the key. Thanks
Sure is a ground it completes the relay. The ground will be provided by the neutral safety switch.
@@alyoungcuda I don't know why I never thought of that. No ground no start.
Very informative. But I have something different going on hopefully you can help me. So 1966 Plymouth baracuda no power at all completely dead. No lights no dash lights no power to the key??? I put a new ballast, coil, voltage regulator. Waiting on starter relay. Will the starter relay keep power from traveling to the entire car?
That red wire off the relay is your 12volts into the car thru the fuse block ..its live..its touching or connected right to the positive cable on the relay..so unless that stud on the relay has a bad connection then its straight 12volts to the fuse block
Gonna go check it now
OkI must be missing some thing. On my starter relay, the wires are black with white stripe, green, and brown?
Your car should have a fusible link..its connected from the relay before it reaches the inside of your fuse box..look for that
How can I send you a picture because it looks like I am definitely missing a part. Neutral switch is not hooked up.
Hello Guru, I do have a 1974 plymouth fury iii that sat for 6years. I just replaced starter, battery, ignition coil, carburetor, spark plugs and ignition wires, one funny thing is before changing all this new parts it fired up and ran for about 3 mins. Did oil change and now it cranks but won't start. Any help is highly appreciated.
Alright, so the cranking eliminates the battery, starter,neutral safety switch.
Let's check for spark 1st, go and pull a spark plug wire off the spark plug,stick a Phillips screwdriver in the wire to act as a spark plug and hold it about 1/4 inch away from a good metal ground and try to start it and see if there is spark jumping from the screwdriver to ground. Or check for fuel 1st by getting a can of gum out carburetor cleaner, spray some in the carburetor with the choke open, and try to start the engine..see if it try to start like it wants to fire up. Is this electronic ignition or points or an aftermarket ignition system. You mentioned that before the parts changes, it ran..so also check your spark plug firing order to see if its in the right order. Since it ran before and stalled after 3 minutes, sounds like it was originally a fuel problem, but now you need to start from scratch with the firing order.
Thank you so much for your reply. I tried that spark technique with a screw drive, and yes, there is a strong sparks, I have been using the carburetor cleaner, but still, it won't start. When I was changing sparks and ignition wires, I put them back one at a time the way it was. Yes, it is an electronic ignition/points, and I believe the ignition system is still original
@@benkip2301 so if you have spark, and you provided fuel by way of carburetor spray or actual gasoline then the only things left is no compression in the cylinders like a few stuck piston rings or the spark plugs are fouled with gasoline and won't fire. You can do a compression test on all cylinders or change spark plugs, what brand plugs are you using, certain brand plugs foul fast and once wet they won't fire up.
@alyoungcuda I used Acdelco platinum spark plugs. I will check compression and try to put a new distributor because the pick-up line connector looks corroded/melted
@@benkip2301 platinum plugs foul out to easily
Will a out of adjust shift linkage case the safety switch to go bad
No, not go bad but a misalignment of the linkage will not engage the switch. Its a push button type switch inside.
Thank you!
@@jamesfitchpatric1504 you're welcome and thanks for watching too...
@@alyoungcuda 💙
I think I found problem all three wires that plug to safety switch were bare and touching I believe that's what shorted both new switches
So, how does that test the relay? If I do what you do and an each is a + or - ground as indicated and still no crank, that is not 100% sure its the relay? How do you test the relay itself?
It tests the relay, it tests the inputs to the relay..if you have your inputs and it won't start, then the output is no good, meaning the relay is no good.. if you do the old school way and jump the 2 terminals or touch a screwdriver to the battery terminal and the starter terminal it will crank. The inputs will set the relay internally to crank if all inputs are good.
So you should get power from the battery stud to the starter stud when the output and relay is good.
@@alyoungcuda , my mistake, thanks, I do not have 12v or live yellow wire. Not sure where ignition switch that powers this yellow wire is located, 86 5th Ave., please let me know if you know location of switch that powers yellow wire.
@@dewholdingsllc1050 if you look up ignition switch on autozone.Com for your model, you will see it bolts on with 2 screws under the steering column..and has a few wires going to it..the switch is operated by a rod that attaches to your ignition key cylinder by gears and such..its mechanical from the key down to that switch and turns it into an electrical output..hope this helps you out ...
@@alyoungcuda Thank you. FYI, on 86 5th and assume other Mopars, the ignition switch is located on very top of steering column under the dash, so you have to remove lower panel, drop steering column to access the two small nut/screw that hold switch onto column. There are two actuator rods one from key lock cylinder to the ignition switch, slots up into switch, and moves inside of switch back and forth to power the relay I assume, the other rod runs from turn signal/cruise/highbeam lever to the headlight dimmer switch? Yes, its a real "booger bear" of a job just replace.
@@dewholdingsllc1050 its adjustable with those 2 screws..try moving it closer up the column or check the connector for power or a burnt wire terminal
I got a question for everyone. My 74 Barracuda won't start in park but will start in neutral. What do I check for that?
Neutral safety switch
th-cam.com/video/iVTcNV1HR8E/w-d-xo.html
@@alyoungcuda Got an update. I put it in neutral and it fired up. I replaced the starter and had it on ramps. I drove it off of the ramps then tried it again in park and it fired up. Would it still be the switch? It's a weird one.
@@davidmckinley5343 did you check the plug if its connected tight
@@alyoungcuda I'll have to do that. I was so happy it started that I took it off the ramps and parked it in the garage to work on a door.
If I may ask where u located I have 67 newport convertible I need help
Jersey
Dodge dart & fart
Not a Dart Fan I guess 🤷