How can a "one man" show be so superior to This Old house. The production, the content, and education value are steps above. TOH has rested on its laurels for far too long and Matt has the next generation in mind for the industry. Thank you Matt for having the vision and guts to put this content out!!!
Because the THO audience is not interested in learning how to build a house, like years ago, and they have no attention span. 25-30 years ago a novice could learn how to do anything, not any more, it has become THO Light. Norm is pretty much retired, Tom is doing less and less and The Host is bland as hell. You want to learn something you come to TH-cam.
I think your talking about apples and oranges. TOH is based on restoration to antiquated standards that didn't depend on performance. Mr. Risinger's video's are almost all performance based. But, if you watch TOH, you will see that under their restorations they are using, sometimes, the exact same products, as you see here, on these videos. The 2 shows, are a distinction without a difference, as they both have niches they cater to. To belittle 1, b/c your a fan of another, is simply wrong, without merit. Mr. Risinger, I'm sure would agree, as he said, on numerous, previous videos, stated he is a fan, of TOH. And you can't negate, the absolute professionalism, and knowledge, and skill, of all the members, of TOH, as well as, Mr. Risinger's professionalism, within his content. It's nice, to give this channel, the props it deserves, but, not at the belittlement, of another channel, or organization. But that all being said I am a big fan of all these videos Good Job to Mr. Risinger. As I love to see new products like these.
Young man... Believe it's a matter of preference. You'd educate yourself watching either one. And instead of giving you a fat heart kiss for your compliment of his show and ignoring your insult to the show he has most likely grew up on and was inspired to do his work from, you would think he'd set you straight. Amazing how the Next-generation thinks.
Spend 20 minutes talking about a new stud on a 30 minute episode of TOH and watch the ratings drop with a quick end to the show. The audience's expectations, sponsor expectations and show's missions are completely different. I'm not against the product, but we just watched a 20 minute T-stud commercial. This "one man" show would never survive on TV (probably not even make it to market) and that's fine, this is the beauty of TH-cam.
I have been watching TOH for nearly forty years, the program has now become a product of its environment and viewing audience. The below comment is correct, most people do not have the attention span required to truly educate themselves, the world now revolves around instant gratification, decades ago many people were truly interested in a show like Victory Garden or TOH, Yankee workshop etc. Its a shame really, the lack of interest in educating oneself, which is why I was so interested in TOH for so long. Thank you Matt and Build for this content, you always spark my interest and desire for further education. Now if i could only get back to work building theatrical scenery, my world would be more complete.
The first half of the th-cam.com/users/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
At least, with plumbers the mess tends to be in a few places instead of the entire house. :) I just wish both would stop using the HAMMER-SAW to make holes in drywall, lol.
I did my apartment with a 2X6 top and bottom plate and used 2X4's staggered every eight inches from inside to outside of the plate. This means there is no energy transfer though the studs. Had my apartment checked with a thermal camera and it showed thermal loss only through the windows and a little around the doors. My windows are thermal windows.
I've done similar here in Canada, my exterior walls were regular 2x4 stud walls........ But with another 2x4 wall 2" inside the first with the studs offset by 8"; roughly R30. Note, I did this in the mid 90's.
That's a long time practice in wood framing and very effective at reducing heat transfer. And it uses much less material/labor than the technique discussed here.
@@pangeacapitalllc5641 actually I think the 4” nail is only required for going through t-stud base plate into stud. In this configuration with solid lumber baseplate they can use standard nails
They should use an exterior thermal image of conventionally framed wall verse this product, as advertisment! I know I would love to see a thermal image difference!
I am guessing a interior shot with foam on the outside, which is a thermal break and a rain screen which is also a thermal break would not be much difference between a standard stud. Now if you went traditional with standard OSB and a direct applied siding, there would be drastic difference, buts that`s stacking the deck. In a apples to apples, in this application my guess it much less than a 100 bucks a year BTU load difference......far less than simply removing a window or a fenestration reduction in over all area........the great thing about a window reduction is it saves money, not costs more and it saves more energy over the life of the building. Your going to need a very narrow application for these to pencil out as a wise choice.....maybe you need 3 times the strength if that is code accepted and maybe you need increased nailing surface etc, but from a R-value thermal break position.......its ok, maybe , in some circumstances.
@@anthonyromano8565 yeah, I agree, but In my comment I was suggesting that the T stud company use an exterior thermal image of a regularly framed and insulated wall side by side with a T stud and insulated wall! It would be a good advertising ,selling point!
@@ericmcginnis9413 you likely won’t be able to see much of a difference. Unless they build a show wall, and only use plaster, studs, foam and some OSB/ply. Of which, it isn’t really an apples for apples comparison, and would be poor/false advertising.
@@ericmcginnis9413 as said earlier, these kind of studs are for the 1% that are either huge load bearing, or net zero/passive haus. For the normal person, a standard 2*6 is enough. Keeping in mind, this is likely 1.5-2* the cost of traditional lumber.
This looks like heaven for an electrician. As an electrician, I was taught to clean up after myself. A clean workplace is a safer workplace. My boss once told the GC that we would be back later after it was cleaned up because it was such a mess from the other trades. He had it written into his contract that the space had to be cleaned before he started work. Now of course it was understood that this was to be enforced within reason during work since trades have to make allowances for each other. Some GC's also would put in a clean up clause in the contract.
If what you are saying about your boss is true he would be the first!!! The only thing I have seen electrical contractors pick up is wire cut offs!!Most are the worst on any job I’ve ever seen of all the subs!! I’ve worked construction for 30 years! So codo’s to your boss!
I wish I could join the chorus on this one since I've been a fan of Matt for some years, but I can't. For me in NH climate zone 5 it just couldn't pencil out. Not close. The shipping costs alone for enough to frame the walls on a 24'x40' workshop were $5200! I'm not a contractor. I'm a retired IT guy with good DIY skills and a desire for a workshop. They were nice enough on the phone but were firm in that they would not deal with a private individual. I would have to find a lumberyard to work through. Try that as a cold call with an inside salesperson who's never heard of you. It didn't help that I couldn't find a roof joist product that would support 24' clearspan with our static snow load requirements here. I ended up with 16" deep I joist type 16" on center, which blew my plans to use advanced framing out of the water and drove up my lumber list by 33%. Also the payback on closed cell foam was out past the end of my life. So most of what Matt ever taught me went out the window. I did use Zip System R-12 for wall sheathing. You need 4" nails for that, and that was its own set of problems. Sorry for the rant, but who do you guys get to pay for these builds anyway? Paul Allen?
I’m not seeing the benefits of it. One cheap piece of ridged insulation and bump up the width of the exterior wall and it still costs way less and has much better r protection. This is like doubling the price of the car so you can get 5 more hp. Doesn’t make sense at all
I'm confused, it was too expensive to ship the new style stud, compared to what??? you said it cost you 33% extra to do your build correctly. So were you comparing the T-studs to the Pre 33% price or the post 33% price??? HUGE difference.
Tstud just took over an old maytag plant in newton iowa. I work for van maanen electric and just did a whole new service and a bunch of piping in their. It's amazing to watch them make them.
3x the compression strength, significant labor reduction in electrical and plumbing installation, less moisture trapping, facing size options for ease of other installs (like double width on the interior studs for cabinetry, or exterior for sheathing)... Price is absolutely a factor, but it is a product that will affect the expense of other steps of construction. Is it enough to offset? That will be a project by project call. I like the idea of the improved compression strength this far north with our snowfall.
@@arthurperrea3714 No. It is not cheaper. Been there and done that. It can be a nightmare of alignment and trim. Does it work? Absolutely. But be prepared for the difficulties,, because 'it ain't easy'.
Thermal bridging remains the difficulty to over come. You used nails to nail the EXP in place? A normal nailing schedule will use 30 to 35 broad head or roofing nails. Those nails transmit like a boat with 30 to 35 holes in the bottom. You can run your own experiment,, easy to do. Take two cheap foam coolers, two identical bags of ice, poke 15 or so nails through the sides of one, and then tape the two coolers shut. Small hole in the bottom to allow water to drain. Observe by total weight,, don't open. The sealed unnailed cooler will last two or three times longer. Do not under estimate the number of nails that penetrate the foam,, sheathing? siding? trim? In construction the nails through foam on one side are one plus inches from the nails on the other side for drywall. Drywall is a cemetitious product and moderately conductive. Foam definitely improves performance,, but not by a whole lot. Alternative that is fast and cheap. Two,, depends upon what heating/cooling zone. Truss studs,, but make your own based upon a 2X10,, 9.25 ? Intermittent 3/8th plywood gussets, 2X3s instead of 2X4s,,, Fiberglass is cheap, and cheap per R value. Or, build a 2X4 wall and on the outside, nail on a 2X3 layer 24 OC,, horizontal or diagonal (excellent nearly free wind bracing for windy locations) Place un-nailed foam sheet 1.5 " thick between the diagonals and then sheet over with second layer of foam nailed into the diagonals The contact points for thermal bridging are reduced 10X and the nails for the outer skin do not penetrate the inner studs. There,, 50 years of engineering, free
Hey, Matt. I've been following your channel for the last year. Just a young man with an interest in woodworking and the like. Thanks for always providing such great information in a digestible format. My father was a contractor many years ago, your videos have given me many talking points to discuss and have fun with, deepening our relationship. You the man!
I would like to see the manufacturing process up close. I can't imagine how they can put those together with and great speed when the dowels run in opposite directions. Will be looking forward to that video for sure.
I don’t see that being difficult. If you setup a jig should be straight forward. The pegs are being sent through one side and cut flush. It’s not being pressed together like I’m assuming you’re thinking.
Yup, almost stopped watching after that one image, I'm still not sold on the strength claims, and if I were convinced by that I'd still be worried about recouping the added cost during the duration of ownership.
@@chrishuyler3580 you will never recoup the upfront cost in energy savings. That is why it is never mentioned when discussing energy efficiency products
I am from U K. Came across Matt Risinger and various construction methods and I am hooked. I am 80+ and I understood a lot - I think this is idiot proof delivery. Feels sooooo good
This would probably be helpful for sound deadening too. I'm converting a house into a duplex and this would be perfect for the wall between the two. On outside walls it could help quiet traffic noise.
You should make sure there aren't code requirements where you live about how to construct the the wall between duplexes/townhomes for fire stopping purposes.
Sprayed foam would kill some of the benefits of this, as the dried foam would cause better mechanical transfer of acoustic energy, but blown fiber glass in conjunction with this framing tech would help preserve the soundproofing benefits if this was a higher priority goal for someone.
This is amazing innovation. I once had an "electrician " drill out a main bearing wall of 2x4s, to run conduit pipe. He could have easily gone in the basement and ran the pipe and come up in between the 2x4s. With this product the pipe or conduit will be protected also, labor cost will be way less., no drilling out and weaking lumber. 👍.
I had the framers put conventional 2x6 exterior studs in. I came back myself and cut 2x4 down the middle (approx 2x2s) to save on cost. Then nailed the 2x2s flat (factory finish) horizontally across the 2x6 studs (top and bottom and every 2 ft) to minimize the thermal bridge. About $500 (4 years ago) in material
I had a hard time understanding this, but now I get it. You strapped the wall with 2x2s on the interior. That's smart. At first I thought you were saying you cut pieces out of each 2x6 stud in place in the wall😂
From a firefighting standpoint, I know these are superior in terms of insulation value and strength but what does this do to the fire rating of a home? Traditional framing gives you a larger time frame prior to collapse from fire load because it is solid wood…this seems it might give us even less time that even lightweight truss framing which is roughly 8 minutes to collapse potential under fire load…we need to look at all aspects when building these new homes! Great video and very educational!
Having just gone through an updated building construction class this was the first thing that went through my mind. While yeah, its great in weight reduction and insulation, it would be nice if builders thought about the dangers from time to time. Could only imagine how quick these studs could fail under fire conditions.
I'm still scratching my head about whoever decided the best wood to frame a house is gonna be pine which in my wintertime fireplace lights up spectacularly and rapidly. jus' sayin'...
I built my addition using 'offset' 2x4's on a 6" thick wall, so there is no thermal connectivity from the inside wall to the outside wall. One set of 2x4's makes up the outside wall, and another set of 2x4's makes the inside wall, but both connect to the 2x6's on the bottom and top. This is simple and cheap solution that does what this fancy stud does.
your stud would be far better..i cant possibly see how those pieces of shit stay straight, there no rigidity to them...nice idea you did with offset 2x4 on 2x6 plates
@@smokeymacpot76- Well, these aren't exactly "New Since Last Night", so, if you "Can't See" how they stay Straight, after fully watching this Video from Matt, you "Could" do more research, or Buy 5-10 Pieces of these T-Studs, and run some torture tests of your own, on them! Also, Those "Bridge Truss Orientation" of the Dowels, is a Major portion of keeping the Cap and Spline Straight!
@@smokeymacpot76 You don't understyand now being clamped down to run the dowels can keep them straight? Because you have alternating push/pull from those dowels and the wood doesn't bow as it dries because of that. Add in the alternating 2x3s and the bowing is countered by the two. It's really not that difficult to understand if you think about it. If you had watched the video, even the framer guy says he was reluctant to use them at first until he learned more about them and now he loves them. If you got out of your comfort zone, you might find some new technology that works better for you.
@@REALfish1552 the test will be those houses in 10-15 years... there not that impressive u can think whatever u want...i prob understand contr far better than you, your 1 them bouncy guys landing on everything new and made a tom of junk havent you lol
@@juzoli I live along the gulf coast in a hurricane prone area. Then there are plains and north Texas areas that have tornadoes. In the video the guy said the tstuds are stronger than a 2x6, but offered no evidence to back up that statement. He made a statement, all I ask for is proof.
@@survivalistboards I don’t think compressive strength is relevant here though. Shear strength is more important when strong wind is twisting the house.
@@juzoli I would still like to see data to back up the statement made in the video. I am not sure we are talking about the same thing. I would like to see the boards laid edge up in a press, see which one breaks first.
My personal largest issue is the same as with manufacturered wood trusses, tgi's and now these. A little bit of water, fire, or one thoughtless hole bored by a mechanical trade and the entire member is compromised. What has always impressed me about solid lumber members was their durability over time, even during a fire or a watee leak. And while I see the value and beauty in the flatness and straightness of engineered wood products, most of these still suffer from the fact that they are composed of smaller wood pieces, be it the dowels and 2x3 of these t studs, the strands in osb, the wood fiber in mdf, etc. If it's for work I wouldn't think twice if I was being paid to install these products. For my own home or shop I'd lean towards solid lumber. But that's me. Even if it meant more work with a power plane and a saw flattening critical walls.
@@danielbuckner2167 Also having the void is somewhat point less. 5x the cost for what? 1" of additional foam? That's only an R3 tops between the walls. Also most high end architect spec away from spray foaming the entire stud bays now because you really don't want to bury all the electrical and plumbing for future modifications or improvements, also it's just not that great for sound insulation. Forget stagger or double wall, especially if you don't have the square footage to do a thick wall, if you want continuous insulation that accomplishes having a hollow cavity between studs you may as well go metal stud and design a house around metal stud framing. It's basically a C Channel with about 1/16 thick steel separating your stud bay. The thermal bridging that occurs with the metal studs wouldn't be much more significant than the thermal bridging that occurs with the pegs on the t-stud. Also the track (top and bottom plate) for metal stud walls are hollow too. Your entire stud bay is essentially insulation space.
@@WallStreetBeggar I'm very familiar with metal stud framing in residential construction in high rise and mid rises. The sound problem is intensified with metal so although you may(or may not) reduce the thermal conductivity you do increase noise transmission. A double wall takes up 50% more room than regular wall. If you are building with 2x4s you simply use a 2x6 plate and so on going up. If footprint size is a concern then you probably have budgetary concerns exceeding any issues with insulation greater than typical tract homes. Your energy and money are better spent elsewhere like in better windows.
@Pauline Weinberger they will put insulation on outside but they can’t do it the way Matt does. No zip2.0 in the north. Supposed to have vapor barrier on inside of wall. And in the extreme cold climates having well insulated walls plus exterior of the walls insulated is needed to create a passive house.
@Pauline Weinberger I'm leaning towards 12" thick walls with double 2x4 construction. Good thing I'm not ready to build for a few years, 2x4s are 8$/piece here because of the increased demand last summer (every body doing renos). I don`t understand how come toilet paper has not gone up, it's made out of the same stuff.
LOL! A tired, bored beaver - I like it! I expect the rough, ripped hole gives more open pores for the foam-like glue to set int0 - stronger bond... Maybe? Just guessing, obviously.
Still seeing you having the hardest time just standing there and listening to your guest speak! We'd love to hear them speak uninterrupted for longer and for you to ask them questions (instead of trying to predict what they're about to say).
2:48 Would love to see the factory where the T-Studs are made; along w/ seeing how they are made, Cuz they look cool😉 Been keeping an eye on this company since the first vid you made showing there products. Hope they make it👍🏻
I've done some framing over a couple summers, and lived through more than my share of prairie winters in houses with regular studs. Those t-studs look awesome! They'd be a bit fussy to work with, but given a finer gauge framing nail and a large, good quality miter saw, I believe they wouldn't be too much trouble. If it really is true that they are all straight that would be great too; no crowns to contend with. I always enjoy seeing practical innovation using wood. It's natural, renewable, strong, and so easy to work, compared to many composites.
@@johnhutchison9782 yeah.... Nope. It doesn't make enough of a difference to reduce labor by an appreciable amount. 5% would by my reduction only if there was no solid that still needed drilling
Hello there,I been and still building for nearly 60 years the tee section is genius and should be mandatory for all sheeted joints, plus by staggering the tee studs it gives you the option to run gib sheets vertically this will enable the staggering of both internal and external sheeting joints. This is revolutionary technology the offset on heating and cooling bills is obvious, high wind and siesmic zones, is also a plus, Best wishes Kieran Pollard NZ
Thank you Matt for this video. The first time you showed this product I was building an office addition to our home would like to have used them on the addition but couldn't wait as I was under a time restrictions.
I think these are a great idea. I also think the traditional solid wood top & bottom plates, and solid window & door framing is appropriate. I know it was mentioned that it wouldn't slow the crew down "much" but now instead of one cut per stud, you are now cutting 3 or 4 times on the same stud, and on every stud; I think that would slow a crew down far more than one thinks. In addition to cutting the studs, how do you orientate the plates if using these T-studs, and do you have to rip some of all your plates now? The fact that lets say 90% of your exterior framing now has a thermal break is substantial, I don't think the last 10% will make that much of a difference in heating and cooling costs, especially when coupled with other innovations.
The concept of building a double wall and filling the inside with insulation has been around a long time and it might be better. One wall is load bearing one is effectively internal. It has available products, same techniques, and in many ways is simplier. One does lose some space, so it may be necessary to upgrade other aspects of the buildings footprint. (More roof and foundation.) A cost comparison other methods and a cost benefit analysis of improved insulation over the life of the building would be helpful.
yes, this is a great concept, so I made my jig and built a complete house with these, top and bottom plates too. 8 inch walls with Rockwool (R-30) and the studs too. R-30. 26 x36 building
I was thinking the same thing, fire could move from cavity to cavity, perhaps draft stopping would compartmentalize long walls. Has the assembly been tested for fire resistance rating? A single 2x6 has less surface area and last longer in a fire than two 2x3s.
@@christopherhaak9824 makes me itch thinking about it. I just did an entire hotel using Rock Wool dense insulation. I still had to add firestops everywhere.
The cellulose works if tested in accordance with ASTM E 119 or UL 263 as fireblocking. I think the concern is with the foam plastic insulation. They mentioned foam several times.
I am curious how this would compare to staggered-stud construction particularly towards reducing thermal bridging and material cost and installation labor cost.
Holy hell, did you guys see the top of that TStud blow apart when the nail gun hit it at 3:26? Watch the smaller stud just split to pieces as soon as the nail goes into it.
The first thing I thought was those dowels should hold those things straight and then I thought of the plumbers and electricians. Then I got to thinking of it as a way to use 2x3s to frame and alarm bells rang. With lumber being made from small trees bred to grow really fast, the quality of our lumber is declining. Alarm bells continued to ring because of the reliance on glue. I don't want to rely on glue for anything. The reason they come out with new wonder glues every few years is the previous wonder glues weren't so wonderful. I also want to know how these things stand up in a fire. One thing they don't tell you about engineered floor trusses is how quickly they fail in a fire, putting firefighters lives at greater risk. Ducking the cost at the end of the video gave me pause. How much would I have paid building the same house next door? I was in construction for 45 years, by the way.
This is the only channel on TH-cam that I can't wait to see the next video, I have seen them all and can't get enough. I love building science, I have done a few remodels my way, but don't work like that anymore, but I miss it so very much.
I understand that it may not make any difference in strength, but why does it look like they drilled those dowel holes with the drill running backwards?
I thought that too, but on further reflection remembered that the perfect is the enemy of the good enough. They work like that; no need to spend more to make them 'pretty'.
Matt, thanks for the great content. I recently discovered you on youtube and have since seen most of your recent videos. I just finished watching an older video--How To Stop Mold From Growing in Your House. It's from three years ago. I hope you can take some constructive criticism....I prefer your older style. The delivery in that video I just mentioned was perfect. Your current style is, I hate to say it, a little used car salesman-ish. That corny sign-off line is unfortunate, and overall, you just comes across like you're filming infomercials. You clearly have a lot of good experience and that three year old video shows you can really share that knowledge in a very professional, pleasant and attention-grabbing way. I'd try to find my way back there if I were you. All that said, thank you for all the great info you dish out. Current style complaints notwithstanding, I'm a big fan of the channel.
everything has a tolerance, if you try to make it exact, then a smaller dowel on a larger hole will be loose. the solution is to always oversize the dowel so that it scrapes its way in, forming an ultra-tight fit that will usually leave wood shaved off.
Looks like he just angled the nail off and it splintered the wood. Probably wasn't a 'short' stud, probably just wasn't being held tight against the plate.
Finally getting progressively? New thermal developments where missing in building. Great you do this. Hopefully buyers will take te extra costs and win later running the house 🏡.
great video. Having a great framer makes things go smoother. I would love to use this product, but I'm focusing my builds on the low income side of things. I've tossed the idea or zip-r sheathing vs polyiso on top. I've ran zip sheathing before, my guys used a ton of liquid flash, so my next build will be a combo of zip tape for seams and liquid flash at penetrations. Keep up the great content.
Again Matt, you brought us a framing alternative that makes sense. The wire and pipe trades must love these T Studs. Thanks again and keep the new technological building products and systems coming.
Forget regular stuff. I've seen quotes for this stuff and it's not economical. I think it came out to around $45-50 a stud (2x6x10)...At that rate it's cheaper to go LVL stud+2" exterior insulation and a mark up for cladding installation over exterior insulation
@@yzhang8629 I can choose either this or traditional lumber. So they are competitors. It might be overpriced, so the traditional is a clear winner, but they are still competitors. I can achieve the same results with traditional lumber, for much less...
We love your show as we’re do it yourselfers. We have built almost all the homes we have lived in. We splurged on our last home and bought Marvin Windows. We cannot for the life of us get them to service them now 16 years later. I have been working on getting someone to come out for fairly minor service for 5 months!!!!!! They are awful! If I remember right I think you like this brand but I would definitely not recommend them because of their total lack of service.
Wondering what these cost .also wouldn't it be better / cheaper with double wall construction 2x4 stagger walls .where you could easily have a thicker wall / insulation
How did I know you would NOT give a price? I get it you make your $ on advertising but all too often so many of your featured products are so expensive that the homeowner simply cannot afford them. I love working with engineered framing for all the obvious reasons. Few will actually opt for them Vs. dimensional lumber which is too bad. I think a more readily available alternative might be framing with TJIs. Yes you still are drilling but most have knockouts in the web & its only about 1/2" anyway. Request for future - when you say you are going to give the cost - actually do that. Price per l.f. for a 2x6.
These studs look awesome. My house was framed with old fashioned 2 x 6s. Edit: I just viewed the video at 3:26 where the nail splits the 2 x 3. It’s concerning...
Standard lumber also splits from nail guns. There are so many variables to cause the wood from splitting like how dry the wood is, type of nails, air pressure with the gun, angle of the nail driving into the wood or the wood grain of the stud.
I remember I delivered wood to a work site and was unloading it with the forklift. I took it over where they told me, got off the forklift, and went inside. I was getting the papers ready while I was walking and tripped over a support beam holding a wall up. Of course the wall did not stay up. Was so embarrassing watching a whole wall fall over, lol. One thing I did notice with these, it would be easier to run the wiring.
A personal opinion is that the exterior wall stud should be equal in thickness to a 2X8 and made out of 2X4's instead of 2X3's placed on two foot centers. This would allow for blown in cellulous to fill the voids and 2X6's are so 1980's
And only requires R-13 walls. How far north do you have to go to need 2x8? 2x6 is specialty here (climate zone 3 where I am, and 2 where Matt is), and it's enough to get to Passive.
@@thethinkingagent7630 Exactly what i was thinking. I have a feeling T Stud won't be happy that made it into the final edit, especially in a sponsored video.
35+ yrs in the building & construction industries. I have NEVER seen an electrician clean up after themselves. In Australia sparkies learn this as apprentices. Seems to be a world wide practice with electricians.
uses more wood to make, costs more to make peices, costs more to assemble, costs more to make, ends split more easily, harder to cut not to mention angle cutting and compound cutting. Plus it will be a PITA to drill hotizontally for plumbing
Thinking about impact on the environment vs traditional 2x6: Does the savings on HVAC power usage (over say 5-10yrs) from presumed efficiency of the TStud OUTWEIGH the presumed additional power consumption from the total manufacturing process + supply chain for this product (including the adhesive)?
I hear ya. But look at a pile of studs, and you see far too many with the center pith of the tree, telling me that very small trees are used. And you know how weak young trees with fast growth are. I'll bet they don't get but 2 or 3 studs per tree. They call it "sustainable", I call it poor lumber.
Interesting topic. Any reason to not use 24" spacing for the studs? In Norway (and probably most of Scandinavia) 60cm have been the norm for over 60 years. All sorts of unfriendly climate and harsh weather here and whats changed over the decades are the insulation thickness. It started with 4" and are now mostly 8" for the walls. Often 6" vertical with 2" horizontal studs.
The people I've known to have 24" oc walls, were not happy, and one replaced them wall by wall with 16" oc walls. When he shut a door, the walls waved. However, I suspect, today, if you went with spray foam, you might had more "glue" to the wall, and stop the wave. To really get weird, the house I'm in now, the studs are sideways, and the support comes from the wood siding. the studs are just scrap pieces.
Dowels can hold things together without glue. But it could spread fire quickly with the gaps between the front and back when not insulated with a fire retardant insulation.
as an Older guy, and a framer, nothing drives me CRAZIER than lack of innovation, IF...its bette..USE IT..if it sux or is too prototypical, then work out the bugs.
Curious what the inspector is going to say about securing wiring when making lateral runs through those studs. Normally the electrician would drill a 5/8" hole to run the romex and it's a tight-ish fit but with the Tstud it will be a hotdog down a hallway. Will they want romex stapled? guess if your spraying foam that would be good.
Looking at the window framing, I like the idea of sloping the sill plate, but I have always doubled window sill plates. Why do you not put in double sill plates.
Wondering how hempcrete would do with those t-studs, after you have run everything of course. Filling it all would be some nice r-value and structure, not sure on the compression though. Sprayed in method may work well.
This is a solution looking for a problem. Bog standard 2x6 is more than structurally adequate for any regular house. And given that this stuff is 4-5 times as much as sawn lumber there's no justifying the cost - especially if you're using exterior insulation like ZIP-R - and that stuff isn't cheap either. All these engineered products are pretty cool, I admit, but they're cost prohibitive for most. Is it going to save you enough in heating costs to offset the expense of it over your time in that house? Absolutely not. Blown cellulose, 2x6, and vapor barrier works great and is actually affordable. And while the claim this stuff is structurally superior is there any actual evidence to back that up? It looks pretty ghetto.
As a firefighter/paramedic I will pass on this product. The split was too easy and also the price point is out of sight for most for sure. Often the cool stuff is neat to see and all but when it comes down to life safety adding more glue and even more fire load. It’s not good. Yes Matt this is cool but all these engineered products are placing people in more danger than ever before. Case in point a minor basement fire in Indianapolis two months ago had the entire subfloor of the TGI joists burnt away. Smart fireman noticed this and they all went home. Engineered products have their place but not for me. Although great content
Your comparing apples to oranges. Floors/ceilings get the full brunt of the heat and are likely to be unfinished. A wall stud will be finished with sheetrock and packed with fire resistant insulation and should have a good air barrier on the outside along with the possible draft of fresh air to cool the wall. Do you have any solid numbers on injuries from fire damaged engineered joist? Is this a real issue or an academic exercise in what ifs and I knew a guy science?
@@tysleight Tyrone just FYI it was my Engine crew who almost went through the floor. And it’s not comparing apples to oranges as it is still engineered products. And the theory of the wall stud maybe covered by sheet rock is invalid as well. Unfinished basements, garage walls, and so forth. Yes there are variables involved. I have been a firefighter for over 28 years and speak from trade and real world experience. Also many homes don’t have flame resistant insulation (spray foam). This is not a what if theory by some guy. Anytime you put products in a home that have glue and other chemicals in them all it takes is heat. Drywall has to be 5/8” type X to have any fire rating also. Most homes have 1/2” regular drywall which can and will get penetrated by an intense fire. The air barrier plays no part of it either Just FYI homes used to have fires that doubled in size roughly 20 years ago leaving occupants minutes to escape (at least 3 to 5) now with all the synthetics and also engineered products you have less than 3 minutes to escape and the fire grows at an exponential rate many times faster than before. Backed by many years of training, actual college experience ( bachelors in Fire Admin and also Arson Investigation). Also studied fire dynamics and combustion’s processes and the effects on both legacy materials and modern materials. All makings of potential disaster. So validated information from many experts across the field to back my claims.
@@rudycarrera4759 let's be adults. I asked a simple question,# of injuries from engineered joist? You came back with huff and puff and smoke. Give me real numbers. Like the average career fire fighter ( not volunteer or wildfire) will not sure of the jargon 1.1 house fires a year according to the NFPA website ( 320k career firefighters divided by 354k home structure fires or 1.1 homes per year per FF. 2018 numbers). This includes fires that have already been put out. Half of which are cooking fires. I am not a fire expert or an HR person but when I see fires I typically see lots of personal standing around at a safe distance not walking into a building so who cares what it's made of, your not going in a burning building that has structure issues or not. 1/2 sheetrock has a 30 minute rating according to industry standards and government test according to the information on huds website. Heck my cardboard box that came from Amazon with my auto parts had a fire rating on it of think it was like 190 seconds or something. 20 years ago while in highschool I framed homes with engineered joist and traditional wall framing that would be absolutely the same as today. So I truly would like to know why the time has dropped? The way we're measuring it? More open floorplan? More junk in the home? Reported cases? But once again the national fire response goal time is 560 seconds with 80 of that in just turn out time. so unless you are real close to the station building structure is once again null for a single family home. Sorry I took so long to respond I am at work ( I no longer build homes for a living just remodel to keep me out of trouble) we just had a guy code on us and I had to go and assist. But if you work ems you know life is boring until the overhead speakers turn on.
@@toddeberlein965 one other thing air barrier makes a huge difference!!! Just ask my new burn barrel that was not working near as well as the old rusty one. Few hits with the claw hammer and bam air barrier breached and flames like it's hot day in california.
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How can a "one man" show be so superior to This Old house. The production, the content, and education value are steps above. TOH has rested on its laurels for far too long and Matt has the next generation in mind for the industry. Thank you Matt for having the vision and guts to put this content out!!!
Because the THO audience is not interested in learning how to build a house, like years ago, and they have no attention span. 25-30 years ago a novice could learn how to do anything, not any more, it has become THO Light. Norm is pretty much retired, Tom is doing less and less and The Host is bland as hell. You want to learn something you come to TH-cam.
I think your talking about apples and oranges. TOH is based on restoration to antiquated standards that didn't depend on performance. Mr. Risinger's video's are almost all performance based. But, if you watch TOH, you will see that under their restorations they are using, sometimes, the exact same products, as you see here, on these videos. The 2 shows, are a distinction without a difference, as they both have niches they cater to. To belittle 1, b/c your a fan of another, is simply wrong, without merit. Mr. Risinger, I'm sure would agree, as he said, on numerous, previous videos, stated he is a fan, of TOH. And you can't negate, the absolute professionalism, and knowledge, and skill, of all the members, of TOH, as well as, Mr. Risinger's professionalism, within his content. It's nice, to give this channel, the props it deserves, but, not at the belittlement, of another channel, or organization. But that all being said I am a big fan of all these videos Good Job to Mr. Risinger. As I love to see new products like these.
Young man... Believe it's a matter of preference. You'd educate yourself watching either one. And instead of giving you a fat heart kiss for your compliment of his show and ignoring your insult to the show he has most likely grew up on and was inspired to do his work from, you would think he'd set you straight. Amazing how the Next-generation thinks.
Spend 20 minutes talking about a new stud on a 30 minute episode of TOH and watch the ratings drop with a quick end to the show. The audience's expectations, sponsor expectations and show's missions are completely different. I'm not against the product, but we just watched a 20 minute T-stud commercial. This "one man" show would never survive on TV (probably not even make it to market) and that's fine, this is the beauty of TH-cam.
I have been watching TOH for nearly forty years, the program has now become a product of its environment and viewing audience. The below comment is correct, most people do not have the attention span required to truly educate themselves, the world now revolves around instant gratification, decades ago many people were truly interested in a show like Victory Garden or TOH, Yankee workshop etc. Its a shame really, the lack of interest in educating oneself, which is why I was so interested in TOH for so long.
Thank you Matt and Build for this content, you always spark my interest and desire for further education. Now if i could only get back to work building theatrical scenery, my world would be more complete.
The first half of the th-cam.com/users/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
When you said the electrician doesn’t have to do any sweeping, where you implying they clean up after themselves... haha that’s a funny one
As a general contractor, I've never seen a sparky with a broom in his hand or his van! ;)
Right I've never seen an electrician or a plumber to sweep up after themselves. That's just ridiculous
I can confirm that. As a spray foam guy I end up cleaning up everyone else’s mess when I clean up my foam trimmings.
At least, with plumbers the mess tends to be in a few places instead of the entire house. :) I just wish both would stop using the HAMMER-SAW to make holes in drywall, lol.
@@christophergruenwald5054 I can confirm, the foam guys I've used clean up the place so well I feel like I should be tipping them.
I did my apartment with a 2X6 top and bottom plate and used 2X4's staggered every eight inches from inside to outside of the plate. This means there is no energy transfer though the studs. Had my apartment checked with a thermal camera and it showed thermal loss only through the windows and a little around the doors. My windows are thermal windows.
I bet you saved a ton of money compared to the t-stud
This is also a method used for soundproofing. Same concept for sound as Thermal.
I've done similar here in Canada, my exterior walls were regular 2x4 stud walls........
But with another 2x4 wall 2" inside the first with the studs offset by 8"; roughly R30.
Note, I did this in the mid 90's.
I heard about a better one with the 2x12 top and bottom plate with 2x4 staggered stud.
That's a long time practice in wood framing and very effective at reducing heat transfer. And it uses much less material/labor than the technique discussed here.
Ha ha, @ 3:26 your carpenter showed us how to split a 2x3 T-stud with a nail.
😬
Isn’t that stud also too short to reach the top plate?
I think T-Studs require a 4" nail. Longer nails with 2x3 -> more likely to split like we see at 3:26.
No kidding
@@pangeacapitalllc5641 actually I think the 4” nail is only required for going through t-stud base plate into stud. In this configuration with solid lumber baseplate they can use standard nails
They should use an exterior thermal image of conventionally framed wall verse this product, as advertisment! I know I would love to see a thermal image difference!
I am guessing a interior shot with foam on the outside, which is a thermal break and a rain screen which is also a thermal break would not be much difference between a standard stud. Now if you went traditional with standard OSB and a direct applied siding, there would be drastic difference, buts that`s stacking the deck. In a apples to apples, in this application my guess it much less than a 100 bucks a year BTU load difference......far less than simply removing a window or a fenestration reduction in over all area........the great thing about a window reduction is it saves money, not costs more and it saves more energy over the life of the building.
Your going to need a very narrow application for these to pencil out as a wise choice.....maybe you need 3 times the strength if that is code accepted and maybe you need increased nailing surface etc, but from a R-value thermal break position.......its ok, maybe , in some circumstances.
Just put your hand on a wall getting hit by the sun. You can feel where the studs are.
@@anthonyromano8565 yeah, I agree, but In my comment I was suggesting that the T stud company use an exterior thermal image of a regularly framed and insulated wall side by side with a T stud and insulated wall! It would be a good advertising ,selling point!
@@ericmcginnis9413 you likely won’t be able to see much of a difference. Unless they build a show wall, and only use plaster, studs, foam and some OSB/ply. Of which, it isn’t really an apples for apples comparison, and would be poor/false advertising.
@@ericmcginnis9413 as said earlier, these kind of studs are for the 1% that are either huge load bearing, or net zero/passive haus.
For the normal person, a standard 2*6 is enough.
Keeping in mind, this is likely 1.5-2* the cost of traditional lumber.
This looks like heaven for an electrician. As an electrician, I was taught to clean up after myself. A clean workplace is a safer workplace. My boss once told the GC that we would be back later after it was cleaned up because it was such a mess from the other trades. He had it written into his contract that the space had to be cleaned before he started work. Now of course it was understood that this was to be enforced within reason during work since trades have to make allowances for each other. Some GC's also would put in a clean up clause in the contract.
I was taught as a electrician to pickup any surplus wire and save it sell as scrap copper. I'm sure the plumbers save copper pipe and old fittings.
If what you are saying about your boss is true he would be the first!!! The only thing I have seen electrical contractors pick up is wire cut offs!!Most are the worst on any job I’ve ever seen of all the subs!! I’ve worked construction for 30 years! So codo’s to your boss!
I wish I could join the chorus on this one since I've been a fan of Matt for some years, but I can't. For me in NH climate zone 5 it just couldn't pencil out. Not close. The shipping costs alone for enough to frame the walls on a 24'x40' workshop were $5200!
I'm not a contractor. I'm a retired IT guy with good DIY skills and a desire for a workshop. They were nice enough on the phone but were firm in that they would not deal with a private individual. I would have to find a lumberyard to work through. Try that as a cold call with an inside salesperson who's never heard of you. It didn't help that I couldn't find a roof joist product that would support 24' clearspan with our static snow load requirements here. I ended up with 16" deep I joist type 16" on center, which blew my plans to use advanced framing out of the water and drove up my lumber list by 33%. Also the payback on closed cell foam was out past the end of my life.
So most of what Matt ever taught me went out the window. I did use Zip System R-12 for wall sheathing. You need 4" nails
for that, and that was its own set of problems.
Sorry for the rant, but who do you guys get to pay for these builds anyway? Paul Allen?
did you watch youtube of his own house being built- awesome
That's the problem with all this new tech., the OPM, (obscene profit margin), breaks the budget.
Yeah, t stud needs to grow to other areas of the country. It’s not really an option for me either.
I’m not seeing the benefits of it. One cheap piece of ridged insulation and bump up the width of the exterior wall and it still costs way less and has much better r protection. This is like doubling the price of the car so you can get 5 more hp. Doesn’t make sense at all
I'm confused, it was too expensive to ship the new style stud, compared to what??? you said it cost you 33% extra to do your build correctly. So were you comparing the T-studs to the Pre 33% price or the post 33% price??? HUGE difference.
Tstud just took over an old maytag plant in newton iowa. I work for van maanen electric and just did a whole new service and a bunch of piping in their. It's amazing to watch them make them.
I wanna see that robot too... might have to trek over from des moines. love working with ya'll on jobs btw.
-a sign guy
This has been over 3 years ago ,
So let's call it what it really is
"TURD"
They're 5 times more expensive than a 2x6. If I'm that worried about thermal bridging, I'll use expanded polystyrene on the exterior as well.
3x the compression strength, significant labor reduction in electrical and plumbing installation, less moisture trapping, facing size options for ease of other installs (like double width on the interior studs for cabinetry, or exterior for sheathing)...
Price is absolutely a factor, but it is a product that will affect the expense of other steps of construction. Is it enough to offset? That will be a project by project call. I like the idea of the improved compression strength this far north with our snowfall.
2x4 double wall would be better can make wider wall and offset framing for even less thermo bridging and cheaper
@@arthurperrea3714 No. It is not cheaper. Been there and done that. It can be a nightmare of alignment and trim. Does it work? Absolutely. But be prepared for the difficulties,, because 'it ain't easy'.
Thermal bridging remains the difficulty to over come. You used nails to nail the EXP in place? A normal nailing schedule will use 30 to 35 broad head or roofing nails. Those nails transmit like a boat with 30 to 35 holes in the bottom. You can run your own experiment,, easy to do. Take two cheap foam coolers, two identical bags of ice, poke 15 or so nails through the sides of one, and then tape the two coolers shut. Small hole in the bottom to allow water to drain. Observe by total weight,, don't open. The sealed unnailed cooler will last two or three times longer. Do not under estimate the number of nails that penetrate the foam,, sheathing? siding? trim?
In construction the nails through foam on one side are one plus inches from the nails on the other side for drywall. Drywall is a cemetitious product and moderately conductive. Foam definitely improves performance,, but not by a whole lot.
Alternative that is fast and cheap. Two,, depends upon what heating/cooling zone. Truss studs,, but make your own based upon a 2X10,, 9.25 ? Intermittent 3/8th plywood gussets, 2X3s instead of 2X4s,,, Fiberglass is cheap, and cheap per R value.
Or, build a 2X4 wall and on the outside, nail on a 2X3 layer 24 OC,, horizontal or diagonal (excellent nearly free wind bracing for windy locations) Place un-nailed foam sheet 1.5 " thick between the diagonals and then sheet over with second layer of foam nailed into the diagonals The contact points for thermal bridging are reduced 10X and the nails for the outer skin do not penetrate the inner studs. There,, 50 years of engineering, free
@@Sailor376also the newer adhesive and clip retained exterior systems show a ton of promise for closing the envelope.
Hey, Matt. I've been following your channel for the last year. Just a young man with an interest in woodworking and the like. Thanks for always providing such great information in a digestible format. My father was a contractor many years ago, your videos have given me many talking points to discuss and have fun with, deepening our relationship. You the man!
I would like to see the manufacturing process up close. I can't imagine how they can put those together with and great speed when the dowels run in opposite directions. Will be looking forward to that video for sure.
Magic!
Much more labor intensive added to additional material will always equal added cost.
I don’t see that being difficult. If you setup a jig should be straight forward. The pegs are being sent through one side and cut flush. It’s not being pressed together like I’m assuming you’re thinking.
Who else noticed how much that wood split when the framer was nailing it to the top plate?
Yup, almost stopped watching after that one image, I'm still not sold on the strength claims, and if I were convinced by that I'd still be worried about recouping the added cost during the duration of ownership.
@@chrishuyler3580 you will never recoup the upfront cost in energy savings. That is why it is never mentioned when discussing energy efficiency products
also there no way to use any cut off , the over all cost must be much more .
@@bipaholic well... in Europe you do :D, we pay >30 cents per KW, we calculate 10 yers +-
@@philippm.1271 CT im at .27cents per kw delivered, sucks
3:25 The TStud gets split open. Thanks for convincing me NOT to use 2x3's to frame a house
I saw that lmao
I am from U K. Came across Matt Risinger and various construction methods and I am hooked. I am 80+ and I understood a lot - I think this is idiot proof delivery. Feels sooooo good
This would probably be helpful for sound deadening too. I'm converting a house into a duplex and this would be perfect for the wall between the two. On outside walls it could help quiet traffic noise.
Great point, insulation isn't just for exterior/thermal purposes.
You should make sure there aren't code requirements where you live about how to construct the the wall between duplexes/townhomes for fire stopping purposes.
A double offset style wall would be more effective for sound deadening. Acoustic decoupling requires as little contact as possible the 2 surfaces.
Sprayed foam would kill some of the benefits of this, as the dried foam would cause better mechanical transfer of acoustic energy, but blown fiber glass in conjunction with this framing tech would help preserve the soundproofing benefits if this was a higher priority goal for someone.
@@gregthompson1609 That's how we did here as well. With fire resistant board on the inside of both walls.
This is amazing innovation.
I once had an "electrician " drill out a main bearing wall of 2x4s, to run conduit pipe.
He could have easily gone in the basement and ran the pipe and come up in between the 2x4s.
With this product the pipe or conduit will be protected also, labor cost will be way less., no drilling out and weaking lumber. 👍.
I had the framers put conventional 2x6 exterior studs in. I came back myself and cut 2x4 down the middle (approx 2x2s) to save on cost. Then nailed the 2x2s flat (factory finish) horizontally across the 2x6 studs (top and bottom and every 2 ft) to minimize the thermal bridge. About $500 (4 years ago) in material
I had a hard time understanding this, but now I get it. You strapped the wall with 2x2s on the interior. That's smart. At first I thought you were saying you cut pieces out of each 2x6 stud in place in the wall😂
From a firefighting standpoint, I know these are superior in terms of insulation value and strength but what does this do to the fire rating of a home? Traditional framing gives you a larger time frame prior to collapse from fire load because it is solid wood…this seems it might give us even less time that even lightweight truss framing which is roughly 8 minutes to collapse potential under fire load…we need to look at all aspects when building these new homes! Great video and very educational!
Excellent point
Those TIJ's (waffle board trusses) I hear go up in smoke and fail quickly.
These will fail miserably!!
Having just gone through an updated building construction class this was the first thing that went through my mind. While yeah, its great in weight reduction and insulation, it would be nice if builders thought about the dangers from time to time. Could only imagine how quick these studs could fail under fire conditions.
I'm still scratching my head about whoever decided the best wood to frame a house is gonna be pine which in my wintertime fireplace lights up spectacularly and rapidly. jus' sayin'...
I built my addition using 'offset' 2x4's on a 6" thick wall, so there is no thermal connectivity from the inside wall to the outside wall. One set of 2x4's makes up the outside wall, and another set of 2x4's makes the inside wall, but both connect to the 2x6's on the bottom and top. This is simple and cheap solution that does what this fancy stud does.
your stud would be far better..i cant possibly see how those pieces of shit stay straight, there no rigidity to them...nice idea you did with offset 2x4 on 2x6 plates
@@smokeymacpot76- Well, these aren't exactly "New Since Last Night", so, if you "Can't See" how they stay Straight, after fully watching this Video from Matt, you "Could" do more research, or Buy 5-10 Pieces of these T-Studs, and run some torture tests of your own, on them!
Also, Those "Bridge Truss Orientation" of the Dowels, is a Major portion of keeping the Cap and Spline Straight!
@@robertweekley5926 i definately will not be wasting money on those....im glad you like them
@@smokeymacpot76 You don't understyand now being clamped down to run the dowels can keep them straight? Because you have alternating push/pull from those dowels and the wood doesn't bow as it dries because of that. Add in the alternating 2x3s and the bowing is countered by the two. It's really not that difficult to understand if you think about it. If you had watched the video, even the framer guy says he was reluctant to use them at first until he learned more about them and now he loves them. If you got out of your comfort zone, you might find some new technology that works better for you.
@@REALfish1552 the test will be those houses in 10-15 years... there not that impressive u can think whatever u want...i prob understand contr far better than you, your 1 them bouncy guys landing on everything new and made a tom of junk havent you lol
Would like to see the tstuds and standard 2x6 put into a hydraulic press and see which one breaks first.
And that would simulate which real life effect on the house?
@@juzoli I live along the gulf coast in a hurricane prone area. Then there are plains and north Texas areas that have tornadoes. In the video the guy said the tstuds are stronger than a 2x6, but offered no evidence to back up that statement. He made a statement, all I ask for is proof.
@@survivalistboards I don’t think compressive strength is relevant here though. Shear strength is more important when strong wind is twisting the house.
@@juzoli I would still like to see data to back up the statement made in the video. I am not sure we are talking about the same thing. I would like to see the boards laid edge up in a press, see which one breaks first.
@@PerfectPrinceX1
Unless a tree falls on your house.
My personal largest issue is the same as with manufacturered wood trusses, tgi's and now these. A little bit of water, fire, or one thoughtless hole bored by a mechanical trade and the entire member is compromised.
What has always impressed me about solid lumber members was their durability over time, even during a fire or a watee leak.
And while I see the value and beauty in the flatness and straightness of engineered wood products, most of these still suffer from the fact that they are composed of smaller wood pieces, be it the dowels and 2x3 of these t studs, the strands in osb, the wood fiber in mdf, etc.
If it's for work I wouldn't think twice if I was being paid to install these products. For my own home or shop I'd lean towards solid lumber. But that's me. Even if it meant more work with a power plane and a saw flattening critical walls.
TStuds... FIVE times more expensive per board foot than a standard 2x6. WOW!
Yeah and you can simply do a staggered double wall which has ZERO temp conveyance and also stops noise transmission. For just twice the normal cost!
@@danielbuckner2167 Also having the void is somewhat point less. 5x the cost for what? 1" of additional foam? That's only an R3 tops between the walls. Also most high end architect spec away from spray foaming the entire stud bays now because you really don't want to bury all the electrical and plumbing for future modifications or improvements, also it's just not that great for sound insulation.
Forget stagger or double wall, especially if you don't have the square footage to do a thick wall, if you want continuous insulation that accomplishes having a hollow cavity between studs you may as well go metal stud and design a house around metal stud framing. It's basically a C Channel with about 1/16 thick steel separating your stud bay. The thermal bridging that occurs with the metal studs wouldn't be much more significant than the thermal bridging that occurs with the pegs on the t-stud.
Also the track (top and bottom plate) for metal stud walls are hollow too. Your entire stud bay is essentially insulation space.
@@WallStreetBeggar I'm very familiar with metal stud framing in residential construction in high rise and mid rises. The sound problem is intensified with metal so although you may(or may not) reduce the thermal conductivity you do increase noise transmission.
A double wall takes up 50% more room than regular wall. If you are building with 2x4s you simply use a 2x6 plate and so on going up. If footprint size is a concern then you probably have budgetary concerns exceeding any issues with insulation greater than typical tract homes. Your energy and money are better spent elsewhere like in better windows.
I was wondering, there's always a big problem with things that aren't often used.
I was quoted $20 each, and today $$$ for 2x6 is 7-10 each
I'd prefer slightly longer dowels and make it 2x8 or 2x10 for more insulation for our Canadian winters.
Last year they said they were going to make a 2x8 but I haven’t seen anything on it since
2x8 version is currently in testing.
@Pauline Weinberger they will put insulation on outside but they can’t do it the way Matt does. No zip2.0 in the north. Supposed to have vapor barrier on inside of wall. And in the extreme cold climates having well insulated walls plus exterior of the walls insulated is needed to create a passive house.
@Pauline Weinberger I'm leaning towards 12" thick walls with double 2x4 construction. Good thing I'm not ready to build for a few years, 2x4s are 8$/piece here because of the increased demand last summer (every body doing renos). I don`t understand how come toilet paper has not gone up, it's made out of the same stuff.
Looks like they bored those dowel holes with a dull beaver
LOL! A tired, bored beaver - I like it! I expect the rough, ripped hole gives more open pores for the foam-like glue to set int0 - stronger bond... Maybe? Just guessing, obviously.
@Kyle Towers I'm a quality beaver guy, but whatever you want to knash your teeth in
Sure looks half ask.
@@48whodat Never half ask something you can whole ask.
Dull Beaver was the actually the name of my folk band’s third album.
Still seeing you having the hardest time just standing there and listening to your guest speak! We'd love to hear them speak uninterrupted for longer and for you to ask them questions (instead of trying to predict what they're about to say).
2:48 Would love to see the factory where the T-Studs are made; along w/ seeing how they are made, Cuz they look cool😉
Been keeping an eye on this company since the first vid you made showing there products. Hope they make it👍🏻
I've done some framing over a couple summers, and lived through more than my share of prairie winters in houses with regular studs.
Those t-studs look awesome! They'd be a bit fussy to work with, but given a finer gauge framing nail and a large, good quality miter saw, I believe they wouldn't be too much trouble. If it really is true that they are all straight that would be great too; no crowns to contend with.
I always enjoy seeing practical innovation using wood. It's natural, renewable, strong, and so easy to work, compared to many composites.
Electricians love these: no more hole-hog! and we can finally fish along a finished wall, rather than have to deal with the 16" damned damn.
Bid reduction for less labor? 😂
@@johnhutchison9782 yeah.... Nope.
It doesn't make enough of a difference to reduce labor by an appreciable amount. 5% would by my reduction only if there was no solid that still needed drilling
@@johnhutchison9782 offset because now they have to staple off their horizontal runs through the studs.
you missed that he's going to sprayfoam it before he finishes it.
@@kenbrown2808 omg, who does such a thing!? and get sprayfoam all in the outlet boxes, no doubt... grumble
Hello there,I been and still building for nearly 60 years the tee section is genius and should be mandatory for all sheeted joints, plus by staggering the tee studs it gives you the option to run gib sheets vertically this will enable the staggering of both internal and external sheeting joints. This is revolutionary technology the offset on heating and cooling bills is obvious, high wind and siesmic zones, is also a plus, Best wishes Kieran Pollard NZ
Thank you Matt for this video. The first time you showed this product I was building an office addition to our home would like to have used them on the addition but couldn't wait as I was under a time restrictions.
I think these are a great idea. I also think the traditional solid wood top & bottom plates, and solid window & door framing is appropriate. I know it was mentioned that it wouldn't slow the crew down "much" but now instead of one cut per stud, you are now cutting 3 or 4 times on the same stud, and on every stud; I think that would slow a crew down far more than one thinks. In addition to cutting the studs, how do you orientate the plates if using these T-studs, and do you have to rip some of all your plates now? The fact that lets say 90% of your exterior framing now has a thermal break is substantial, I don't think the last 10% will make that much of a difference in heating and cooling costs, especially when coupled with other innovations.
Tiny homes and factory built modular homes will eat your lunch if you use this product.
Was impressed with them after the first video. Even more so now.
Favorite part of any of Matt's videos is at the end when he does his "On The Build Show"
It seems the cost would be way too high and more difficult to work with...Not too sure about investing into it...
cost and practicality are two diff things.
Damn, I though he was just gonna speak about wood and leave thermal bridging to others yet speaks about it 2 minutes in. Perfect.
The concept of building a double wall and filling the inside with insulation has been around a long time and it might be better. One wall is load bearing one is effectively internal. It has available products, same techniques, and in many ways is simplier. One does lose some space, so it may be necessary to upgrade other aspects of the buildings footprint. (More roof and foundation.) A cost comparison other methods and a cost benefit analysis of improved insulation over the life of the building would be helpful.
yes, this is a great concept, so I made my jig and built a complete house with these, top and bottom plates too. 8 inch walls with Rockwool (R-30) and the studs too. R-30. 26 x36 building
What about fire blocking? Seems like a fire would spread through a wall pretty quickly.
There is zero spread with dense pack cellulose for sure. Not necessarily the case with other insulations.
I was thinking the same thing, fire could move from cavity to cavity, perhaps draft stopping would compartmentalize long walls. Has the assembly been tested for fire resistance rating? A single 2x6 has less surface area and last longer in a fire than two 2x3s.
@@christopherhaak9824 makes me itch thinking about it. I just did an entire hotel using Rock Wool dense insulation. I still had to add firestops everywhere.
The cellulose works if tested in accordance with ASTM E 119 or UL 263 as fireblocking. I think the concern is with the foam plastic insulation. They mentioned foam several times.
@@frankhitch5080 Probably a good talking point in favor of timber framing with SIP walls, vs this smaller and smaller toothpick strategy.
Thank you for discussing the plumbing nuances. Very informative.
I am curious how this would compare to staggered-stud construction particularly towards reducing thermal bridging and material cost and installation labor cost.
I’m also interested. A staggered wall should be much cheaper if these are really about $15 a piece.
Plumbers will just love these new studs the main plumbing stacks and branches will have to go through them
Holy hell, did you guys see the top of that TStud blow apart when the nail gun hit it at 3:26? Watch the smaller stud just split to pieces as soon as the nail goes into it.
...sponsored video, eh? You might have wanted to edit that part out! Whew! That was bad.
I came here to comment just that!
Came here to post that. Whole stud is now void. Shouldn't be an issue if the insulation is already blown in. Whole block of glue.
Yep. I saw it too. SPLITTT!!
I wonder if a couple of bottles of Gorilla Glue are included with each T stud purchase LMAO
Sparkies are going to love the electrical rough-in on this. So many fewer holes to drill!
You got that right!
The first thing I thought was those dowels should hold those things straight and then I thought of the plumbers and electricians.
Then I got to thinking of it as a way to use 2x3s to frame and alarm bells rang.
With lumber being made from small trees bred to grow really fast, the quality of our lumber is declining.
Alarm bells continued to ring because of the reliance on glue. I don't want to rely on glue for anything.
The reason they come out with new wonder glues every few years is the previous wonder glues weren't so wonderful.
I also want to know how these things stand up in a fire. One thing they don't tell you about engineered floor trusses is how quickly they fail in a fire, putting firefighters lives at greater risk.
Ducking the cost at the end of the video gave me pause.
How much would I have paid building the same house next door?
I was in construction for 45 years, by the way.
This is the only channel on TH-cam that I can't wait to see the next video, I have seen them all and can't get enough. I love building science, I have done a few remodels my way, but don't work like that anymore, but I miss it so very much.
I love the way you explain stuff. Thanks Matt
Definitely want this t-stud option in my forever home!
I understand that it may not make any difference in strength, but why does it look like they drilled those dowel holes with the drill running backwards?
Save money drilling thousands of holes
I thought that too, but on further reflection remembered that the perfect is the enemy of the good enough. They work like that; no need to spend more to make them 'pretty'.
Matt, thanks for the great content. I recently discovered you on youtube and have since seen most of your recent videos. I just finished watching an older video--How To Stop Mold From Growing in Your House. It's from three years ago. I hope you can take some constructive criticism....I prefer your older style. The delivery in that video I just mentioned was perfect. Your current style is, I hate to say it, a little used car salesman-ish. That corny sign-off line is unfortunate, and overall, you just comes across like you're filming infomercials. You clearly have a lot of good experience and that three year old video shows you can really share that knowledge in a very professional, pleasant and attention-grabbing way. I'd try to find my way back there if I were you. All that said, thank you for all the great info you dish out. Current style complaints notwithstanding, I'm a big fan of the channel.
Why do the dowel bore holes look so janky? I know all this will be buried by insulation but is it really that difficult to make a clean bore hole?
everything has a tolerance, if you try to make it exact, then a smaller dowel on a larger hole will be loose. the solution is to always oversize the dowel so that it scrapes its way in, forming an ultra-tight fit that will usually leave wood shaved off.
It looks like those dowels were shot in by a giant nail gun. Would be great for vampire hunting.
I could see the electrical and plumbing subs walking in and saying "We must be in heaven man! These are cool!
Cool video! Would you tell me about the nailed stud at 3 mins 25 seconds? Why did they go ahead a nail in a short stud? Thanks!
Looks like he just angled the nail off and it splintered the wood. Probably wasn't a 'short' stud, probably just wasn't being held tight against the plate.
Finally getting progressively? New thermal developments where missing in building. Great you do this. Hopefully buyers will take te extra costs and win later running the house 🏡.
Bill has gone full gangster over the years....
More like full 'Bruh'
Is that the same as looking like an idiot? Would never hire a contractor that presents himself as such.
@@MrThisIsMeToo Didn't know construction required a suit and tie nowadays. I bet your prince charming is all dolled up on your worksite, huh princess.
I mean it's not that bad.
@@rasolaqfa5051 More like full Austin.
great video. Having a great framer makes things go smoother. I would love to use this product, but I'm focusing my builds on the low income side of things. I've tossed the idea or zip-r sheathing vs polyiso on top. I've ran zip sheathing before, my guys used a ton of liquid flash, so my next build will be a combo of zip tape for seams and liquid flash at penetrations. Keep up the great content.
I want to see a version that uses two 2x4’s with a 2x8, 2x10, 2x12 for more insulation. Also, LVL for timbers as an option.
Again Matt, you brought us a framing alternative that makes sense. The wire and pipe trades must love these T Studs. Thanks again and keep the new technological building products and systems coming.
What is cheaper? Using this stud, or using regular stud and adding 2 more inches of polyiso to the exterior?
15:57 It seems this product is competing with other engineered lumbers, not traditional lumbers.
Forget regular stuff. I've seen quotes for this stuff and it's not economical. I think it came out to around $45-50 a stud (2x6x10)...At that rate it's cheaper to go LVL stud+2" exterior insulation and a mark up for cladding installation over exterior insulation
@@yzhang8629 I can choose either this or traditional lumber. So they are competitors. It might be overpriced, so the traditional is a clear winner, but they are still competitors.
I can achieve the same results with traditional lumber, for much less...
We love your show as we’re do it yourselfers. We have built almost all the homes we have lived in. We splurged on our last home and bought Marvin Windows. We cannot for the life of us get them to service them now 16 years later. I have been working on getting someone to come out for fairly minor service for 5 months!!!!!! They are awful! If I remember right I think you like this brand but I would definitely not recommend them because of their total lack of service.
3:25 Whoa, wood split.
Wondering what these cost .also wouldn't it be better / cheaper with double wall construction 2x4 stagger walls .where you could easily have a thicker wall / insulation
Seems odd they ran the dowels all the way through the 2x3 going the long way through vs the short way on the other. I'm sure they had a reason.
ease of just piledriving them through, I expect.
Nice product that you don't have to worry about getting warped wood.. Sweet.
I'm wondering what the compression strength would be in an I configuration
This is absolutely amazing. Lots and lots of benefits to use this. Hope the company prospers
How did I know you would NOT give a price? I get it you make your $ on advertising but all too often so many of your featured products are so expensive that the homeowner simply cannot afford them. I love working with engineered framing for all the obvious reasons. Few will actually opt for them Vs. dimensional lumber which is too bad. I think a more readily available alternative might be framing with TJIs. Yes you still are drilling but most have knockouts in the web & its only about 1/2" anyway. Request for future - when you say you are going to give the cost - actually do that. Price per l.f. for a 2x6.
The first thought was cost. That matters!!!
So does the labor, and drill holes for electricians is hardly inexpensive
These studs look awesome. My house was framed with old fashioned 2 x 6s. Edit: I just viewed the video at 3:26 where the nail splits the 2 x 3. It’s concerning...
Standard lumber also splits from nail guns. There are so many variables to cause the wood from splitting like how dry the wood is, type of nails, air pressure with the gun, angle of the nail driving into the wood or the wood grain of the stud.
I remember I delivered wood to a work site and was unloading it with the forklift. I took it over where they told me, got off the forklift, and went inside. I was getting the papers ready while I was walking and tripped over a support beam holding a wall up. Of course the wall did not stay up. Was so embarrassing watching a whole wall fall over, lol. One thing I did notice with these, it would be easier to run the wiring.
That’s a good looking job site
That's pretty cool. My brother built a house on 2x8 plate with an offset 2x4 pattern
Also easier for electricians and plumbing.
That's where my brain went first haha get the electricians in and out QUICK and pulling pex through the whole house EASY
absolute game changer!
And doesn't change how the house is framed much at all.
Yes and no drilled holes are a support so supporting wire and pipe will be kinda weird
electricians yes but running drains and vents seem like it would be a little difficult drilling around the dowels.
Wow, this is what I will use on my next house to get full advantage of closed cell foam.
A personal opinion is that the exterior wall stud should be equal in thickness to a 2X8 and made out of 2X4's instead of 2X3's placed on two foot centers. This would allow for blown in cellulous to fill the voids and 2X6's are so 1980's
Texas still uses 2X4 for EXTERIOR walls!!!
And only requires R-13 walls. How far north do you have to go to need 2x8? 2x6 is specialty here (climate zone 3 where I am, and 2 where Matt is), and it's enough to get to Passive.
I’m in Central PA and only lived in 2x4 houses... yes, they’re cold. 😂
Your videos are awesome and make me want to build a new house even more than before
3:26 doesn't give me the greatest confidence in the product.
You caught that too? I was like, "How did that make it through editing?"
😬
@@thethinkingagent7630 Exactly what i was thinking. I have a feeling T Stud won't be happy that made it into the final edit, especially in a sponsored video.
I agree it looks bad and should’ve made it to the video, but things like this happen with solid wood too.
I noticed 3:26 as well! That stud is not going to take as much in compression or lateral. Hopefully, Matt will comment on this.
Cool next step, hopefully they can get pricing down to a reasonable level. Thanks Matt
Probably be more cost effective to build a double studded wall if R-value is a major consideration.
35+ yrs in the building & construction industries. I have NEVER seen an electrician clean up after themselves. In Australia sparkies learn this as apprentices. Seems to be a world wide practice with electricians.
uses more wood to make, costs more to make peices, costs more to assemble, costs more to make, ends split more easily, harder to cut not to mention angle cutting and compound cutting. Plus it will be a PITA to drill hotizontally for plumbing
Thinking about impact on the environment vs traditional 2x6: Does the savings on HVAC power usage (over say 5-10yrs) from presumed efficiency of the TStud OUTWEIGH the presumed additional power consumption from the total manufacturing process + supply chain for this product (including the adhesive)?
3:27 the nail gun split the stud. Doesn’t make me feel really good about this.
That's b/c nails split everything on the end. Nails suck.
Never see a 2x4 do that?
I hear ya. But look at a pile of studs, and you see far too many with the center pith of the tree, telling me that very small trees are used. And you know how weak young trees with fast growth are. I'll bet they don't get but 2 or 3 studs per tree. They call it "sustainable", I call it poor lumber.
that shows this was honest presentation - warts and all
Interesting topic. Any reason to not use 24" spacing for the studs? In Norway (and probably most of Scandinavia) 60cm have been the norm for over 60 years. All sorts of unfriendly climate and harsh weather here and whats changed over the decades are the insulation thickness. It started with 4" and are now mostly 8" for the walls. Often 6" vertical with 2" horizontal studs.
The people I've known to have 24" oc walls, were not happy, and one replaced them wall by wall with 16" oc walls. When he shut a door, the walls waved. However, I suspect, today, if you went with spray foam, you might had more "glue" to the wall, and stop the wave. To really get weird, the house I'm in now, the studs are sideways, and the support comes from the wood siding. the studs are just scrap pieces.
Its a lot more sustainable too - because a tree can grow a 3x2 much quicker than a 6x2
Great point!
Taking notes on who you work with in the area. Bill would be someone I would like to work with on our new home.
It's great until there's a fire. Then the glue holding them together melts and their structural strength decreases massively with collapse soon after.
Henry Chinery what proof do you have of that?
Dowels can hold things together without glue. But it could spread fire quickly with the gaps between the front and back when not insulated with a fire retardant insulation.
You chaps are real pros!!
as an Older guy, and a framer, nothing drives me CRAZIER than lack of innovation, IF...its bette..USE IT..if it sux or is too prototypical, then work out the bugs.
These look like a good idea. The only thing I can see being a pain is getting a fall on any waste pipe work before hitting a dowel.
As I said in the video you can lose one dowel before the structure is compromised
They just don’t care about the plumber
3:26 Splitt
Great presentation Matt, as always!
3:25 Hm. First stud they show nailing to a plate, and they split it....
Curious what the inspector is going to say about securing wiring when making lateral runs through those studs. Normally the electrician would drill a 5/8" hole to run the romex and it's a tight-ish fit but with the Tstud it will be a hotdog down a hallway. Will they want romex stapled? guess if your spraying foam that would be good.
What did peeple do before the build show??
Best comment this week!
Looking at the window framing, I like the idea of sloping the sill plate, but I have always doubled window sill plates. Why do you not put in double sill plates.
I would go 24oc with those beefy studs
I was wondering why they didn’t. I’m guessing because it is a new product for Bill, the architect, or inspector 🤔 Matt?
Could depend on the load above... 2 or 3 story, a heavy slate roof
Wondering how hempcrete would do with those t-studs, after you have run everything of course. Filling it all would be some nice r-value and structure, not sure on the compression though. Sprayed in method may work well.
This is a solution looking for a problem. Bog standard 2x6 is more than structurally adequate for any regular house. And given that this stuff is 4-5 times as much as sawn lumber there's no justifying the cost - especially if you're using exterior insulation like ZIP-R - and that stuff isn't cheap either. All these engineered products are pretty cool, I admit, but they're cost prohibitive for most. Is it going to save you enough in heating costs to offset the expense of it over your time in that house? Absolutely not. Blown cellulose, 2x6, and vapor barrier works great and is actually affordable. And while the claim this stuff is structurally superior is there any actual evidence to back that up? It looks pretty ghetto.
People may value noise dampening, and carbon. Labour costs may affect costs, especially as production costs come down.
Thats what I'm thinking will be perfect in our shipping container home thanks for the "post"
As a firefighter/paramedic I will pass on this product. The split was too easy and also the price point is out of sight for most for sure. Often the cool stuff is neat to see and all but when it comes down to life safety adding more glue and even more fire load. It’s not good. Yes Matt this is cool but all these engineered products are placing people in more danger than ever before.
Case in point a minor basement fire in Indianapolis two months ago had the entire subfloor of the TGI joists burnt away. Smart fireman noticed this and they all went home. Engineered products have their place but not for me.
Although great content
Your comparing apples to oranges. Floors/ceilings get the full brunt of the heat and are likely to be unfinished. A wall stud will be finished with sheetrock and packed with fire resistant insulation and should have a good air barrier on the outside along with the possible draft of fresh air to cool the wall.
Do you have any solid numbers on injuries from fire damaged engineered joist? Is this a real issue or an academic exercise in what ifs and I knew a guy science?
@@tysleight Tyrone just FYI it was my Engine crew who almost went through the floor. And it’s not comparing apples to oranges as it is still engineered products. And the theory of the wall stud maybe covered by sheet rock is invalid as well. Unfinished basements, garage walls, and so forth. Yes there are variables involved. I have been a firefighter for over 28 years and speak from trade and real world experience. Also many homes don’t have flame resistant insulation (spray foam).
This is not a what if theory by some guy. Anytime you put products in a home that have glue and other chemicals in them all it takes is heat. Drywall has to be 5/8” type X to have any fire rating also. Most homes have 1/2” regular drywall which can and will get penetrated by an intense fire.
The air barrier plays no part of it either
Just FYI homes used to have fires that doubled in size roughly 20 years ago leaving occupants minutes to escape (at least 3 to 5) now with all the synthetics and also engineered products you have less than 3 minutes to escape and the fire grows at an exponential rate many times faster than before.
Backed by many years of training, actual college experience ( bachelors in Fire Admin and also Arson Investigation). Also studied fire dynamics and combustion’s processes and the effects on both legacy materials and modern materials.
All makings of potential disaster.
So validated information from many experts across the field to back my claims.
@@toddeberlein965 Thanks for sharing your expertise, Todd! I was just thinking to myself that this product might not hold up well in a fire.
@@rudycarrera4759 let's be adults. I asked a simple question,# of injuries from engineered joist? You came back with huff and puff and smoke. Give me real numbers. Like the average career fire fighter ( not volunteer or wildfire) will not sure of the jargon 1.1 house fires a year according to the NFPA website ( 320k career firefighters divided by 354k home structure fires or 1.1 homes per year per FF. 2018 numbers). This includes fires that have already been put out. Half of which are cooking fires.
I am not a fire expert or an HR person but when I see fires I typically see lots of personal standing around at a safe distance not walking into a building so who cares what it's made of, your not going in a burning building that has structure issues or not.
1/2 sheetrock has a 30 minute rating according to industry standards and government test according to the information on huds website. Heck my cardboard box that came from Amazon with my auto parts had a fire rating on it of think it was like 190 seconds or something.
20 years ago while in highschool I framed homes with engineered joist and traditional wall framing that would be absolutely the same as today. So I truly would like to know why the time has dropped? The way we're measuring it? More open floorplan? More junk in the home? Reported cases? But once again the national fire response goal time is 560 seconds with 80 of that in just turn out time. so unless you are real close to the station building structure is once again null for a single family home.
Sorry I took so long to respond I am at work ( I no longer build homes for a living just remodel to keep me out of trouble) we just had a guy code on us and I had to go and assist. But if you work ems you know life is boring until the overhead speakers turn on.
@@toddeberlein965 one other thing air barrier makes a huge difference!!! Just ask my new burn barrel that was not working near as well as the old rusty one. Few hits with the claw hammer and bam air barrier breached and flames like it's hot day in california.