Thank you for the video. Ive had a similar issue, clutch just goes down and doesn’t return unless I pull it half way up then it flicks to correct position. Fluid level is ok and no visible leak, does this sound like the same issue so could possibly be this part? It failed about a week ago and strangely when I restarted the car the clutch just started working again, also seemed to be struggling at low revs. Any advice would be great
@torqueautomotivebedford it has been reverse bled again. At cold reverse is fine, after the engine and clutch has warmed up it becomes really hard to get into gear. Bleed has helped 1st gear and the bite but still having issues with reverse being stiff. No other gear issues and nothing like it prior to the change.
@torqueautomotivebedford yep all new, checked about gearbox as well which all seems fine. Bite was a bit low but that seems to be resolved now, about 4th time back at the garage in a month
I'm having no joy bleeding this up even with the same bleeder you've used in this video, no fluid flows out the bleeder when under pressure !! Is this a problem you've encountered ?
How much does the MC cost and where to get it from? Looking for a home garage repair, is it possible to do this without any special equipment, it seems it can be from your video. Please reply.
You can order one from a motor parts place, if your in the UK you can call one and order, cost I can’t remember but it will be sub £100 Yer you don’t need any special equipment , just follow the video!
@@torqueautomotivebedford Planning to get the FTE one from Autodoc almost £100 The white clip removal might be tricky, but fingers crossed. I might have to remove the plastics below the steeting to get some space to work. Also after connecting the new CMC, planning to do a reverse bleed, instead of a standard one. Might need one or two bleed, to get good clutch. All hypothetically, never done any vehicle repair in my life. Wish me luck.
Thanks for your previous reply. I got the FTE CMC and replaced it, but I'm failing to bleed the clutch. I tried to fill the reservoir a pushed the pedal, a couple of time, but I did not get any pressure back. So, in the next step, I removed brake fluid till minimum line and connected my sealey to pressure bleed at 15 psi. I got the fluid slowly rising on the other side and after the air bubbles stopped, I closed everything and filled in the reservoir to correct level. But my clutch is still doesn't have any pressure. I assume it's not the CSC, otherwise, I would have fluid dripping from the bell housing. I believe I am not able to bleed it properly. I thought the sealey will do everything nice, but expectations vs reality kicked my butt. How long do I have to keep the push pull on the pedal in the first step? before you connected the sealey. Do I need to keep doing it until I get some pressure? Any other tips please?
@@PabitraPadhy man I missed this sorry!!! You need to keep at it as it takes a while to bleed as you have so many places for air to get trapped!! I pump a few times by hand, hold down, open the bleed point, and close it and repeat - you will have air coming in, just keep the fluid full at all times!!
@@torqueautomotivebedford Appreciate you responding back. I was able to successfully replace the CMC and bleed it correctly at 2bar using a pressure bleeder. It's all done now and the car works fine now. Your video helped a lot.
Thnks good vid. Just did this on a astra J. Undoing the nuts was a pain right hand side nit was easy with extension left wad behind the clutch plug for detecting clutch being down to start car. Next issue is for anyone doing this to known rubber washer/ gasket what u call it 😊 for the brake fluid reservoir tube dont forget to remove from old cylinder and connect in tube first then connect tube otherwise will be loose. The last headache was bleeding but u get used to it. New cylinder will be down first. Pull clutch up open bleeder on slave, push clutch down, close bleeder , pull clutch up, always keep eye on reservoir level, open bleeder, push clutch down, close bleeder, pull clutch up. Ran out of fluid so has to rush to shops for more otherwise reuse from the bottle capturing from bleeder Took me about 1 and half hours to do due to a few issues here and there. For that damn clip holding cylinder to pedal i snapped the old cylinders stick thing Nd thn pressed the clip shut to remove as wasnt going to waste time trying to mess with it. Hope it helps. Thanks for uploading
Seriously that white clip is a menace to deal with. They have made a bad design and someone created a tool profiting from it from other's misery. I have managed to tie a zip tie around the white clippy arms, sqeezing it tight, but still they are not coming off. What a terrible design. My last resort is to break that thing off. Don't want to but I will if I have to.
Clutch Pedal Sensor. On mine there is no lower spring in the way (2010) but just before you click the cylinder into clutch pedal make sure the clutch switch lines up with a pin on the side off the pedal. Otherwise go to start the car and it says "Depress Clutch Pedal" and car will not start.
@@OlumideAdeyemo-ee9di £1250 was the price to fix in the United Kingdom. I just sold it for parts. Needed a master cylinder for the gearbox and a new flywheel
If you are struggling with the white clip unhooking it. Just cut the rod with a cutter. It’s a plastic rod and very easy to split. No need to struggle unhooking it. As it needs a special tool call master cylinder plier.
@@torqueautomotivebedford its a weird one yup tried easy bleeder and also reverse bleed and nothing, check all the pipes and they are not block so ordered the 2nd one and fingers cross its ok🤞
Great video, I'm having a nightware, the retaining spring in the engine bay keeps popping, does it go in a certain way, the 3 "prongs" are flush with the connector, it just keeps poppng out
@@torqueautomotivebedford Appreciate the reply. I'll check that, doing my head in lol. At least I'm expert in bleeding them, takes me 5 minutes but pointless if the bloody clip pops after a few hard pumps. Anyway thanks again and have a good one.
Thank you very much this video helped me out so much. Also I wish I had your patience as if I had to make a video doing this there would have been alot of bleeping😂
Very helpful video. What pressure do you set your bleeder to as I'm having problems with no fluid flowing from the bleed nipple ?
No more than 1 bar.
It shouldn’t take a lot, do not put a lot pf pressure as you can damage seals!!
Great video 👍
thanks!
Thank you for the video. Ive had a similar issue, clutch just goes down and doesn’t return unless I pull it half way up then it flicks to correct position. Fluid level is ok and no visible leak, does this sound like the same issue so could possibly be this part? It failed about a week ago and strangely when I restarted the car the clutch just started working again, also seemed to be struggling at low revs. Any advice would be great
I am having the same issues with my clutch what was the problem????
same issue for me as well. Astra J GTC 1.4T at 48k miles.
Have to do this to my Saab 9-3 using your video as a reference! Thank you
Brilliant! hope it goes ok for you!
@@torqueautomotivebedford got some pressure in the pedal then a puddle under the car. Looks like I’ll be replacing the clutch and slave cylinder….
This happened to me replaced the slave and now the master cylinder and im not getting any fluid coming through whats so ever 🤔🤔🤔
Any insight on why my reverse and 1st gear would be stiff after a full new clutch? 2015 Vauxhall Insignia 1.6
You need to bleed the clutch slave again!! Does it work after a few pumps of the pedal??
@torqueautomotivebedford it has been reverse bled again. At cold reverse is fine, after the engine and clutch has warmed up it becomes really hard to get into gear.
Bleed has helped 1st gear and the bite but still having issues with reverse being stiff. No other gear issues and nothing like it prior to the change.
Really odd but is the brake fluid your using new??
@torqueautomotivebedford yep all new, checked about gearbox as well which all seems fine.
Bite was a bit low but that seems to be resolved now, about 4th time back at the garage in a month
Don’t had a large amount of air in it!! Glad it sorted!!
I'm having no joy bleeding this up even with the same bleeder you've used in this video, no fluid flows out the bleeder when under pressure !! Is this a problem you've encountered ?
Its much more difficult in the astra?
Never done an Astra …
How much does the MC cost and where to get it from?
Looking for a home garage repair, is it possible to do this without any special equipment, it seems it can be from your video. Please reply.
You can order one from a motor parts place, if your in the UK you can call one and order, cost I can’t remember but it will be sub £100
Yer you don’t need any special equipment , just follow the video!
@@torqueautomotivebedford Planning to get the FTE one from Autodoc almost £100
The white clip removal might be tricky, but fingers crossed.
I might have to remove the plastics below the steeting to get some space to work.
Also after connecting the new CMC, planning to do a reverse bleed, instead of a standard one.
Might need one or two bleed, to get good clutch.
All hypothetically, never done any vehicle repair in my life.
Wish me luck.
Thanks for your previous reply.
I got the FTE CMC and replaced it, but I'm failing to bleed the clutch.
I tried to fill the reservoir a pushed the pedal, a couple of time, but I did not get any pressure back. So, in the next step, I removed brake fluid till minimum line and connected my sealey to pressure bleed at 15 psi. I got the fluid slowly rising on the other side and after the air bubbles stopped, I closed everything and filled in the reservoir to correct level. But my clutch is still doesn't have any pressure.
I assume it's not the CSC, otherwise, I would have fluid dripping from the bell housing.
I believe I am not able to bleed it properly.
I thought the sealey will do everything nice, but expectations vs reality kicked my butt.
How long do I have to keep the push pull on the pedal in the first step? before you connected the sealey. Do I need to keep doing it until I get some pressure? Any other tips please?
@@PabitraPadhy man I missed this sorry!!! You need to keep at it as it takes a while to bleed as you have so many places for air to get trapped!! I pump a few times by hand, hold down, open the bleed point, and close it and repeat - you will have air coming in, just keep the fluid full at all times!!
@@torqueautomotivebedford Appreciate you responding back. I was able to successfully replace the CMC and bleed it correctly at 2bar using a pressure bleeder.
It's all done now and the car works fine now. Your video helped a lot.
Thnks good vid. Just did this on a astra J. Undoing the nuts was a pain right hand side nit was easy with extension left wad behind the clutch plug for detecting clutch being down to start car.
Next issue is for anyone doing this to known rubber washer/ gasket what u call it 😊 for the brake fluid reservoir tube dont forget to remove from old cylinder and connect in tube first then connect tube otherwise will be loose.
The last headache was bleeding but u get used to it. New cylinder will be down first. Pull clutch up open bleeder on slave, push clutch down, close bleeder , pull clutch up, always keep eye on reservoir level, open bleeder, push clutch down, close bleeder, pull clutch up. Ran out of fluid so has to rush to shops for more otherwise reuse from the bottle capturing from bleeder
Took me about 1 and half hours to do due to a few issues here and there.
For that damn clip holding cylinder to pedal i snapped the old cylinders stick thing Nd thn pressed the clip shut to remove as wasnt going to waste time trying to mess with it.
Hope it helps.
Thanks for uploading
thanks!
Seriously that white clip is a menace to deal with.
They have made a bad design and someone created a tool profiting from it from other's misery.
I have managed to tie a zip tie around the white clippy arms, sqeezing it tight, but still they are not coming off. What a terrible design.
My last resort is to break that thing off. Don't want to but I will if I have to.
Clutch Pedal Sensor.
On mine there is no lower spring in the way (2010) but just before you click the cylinder into clutch pedal make sure the clutch switch lines up with a pin on the side off the pedal. Otherwise go to start the car and it says "Depress Clutch Pedal" and car will not start.
Brilliant info!!! Thank you for adding!!
That just happened to my insignia, how much should it cost?
Hi did u manage to fix yours ?
@@OlumideAdeyemo-ee9di £1250 was the price to fix in the United Kingdom. I just sold it for parts. Needed a master cylinder for the gearbox and a new flywheel
this shouldn't have cost much... but seeing the comments you have got rid.. sorry I didn't see comments sooner
If you are struggling with the white clip unhooking it.
Just cut the rod with a cutter.
It’s a plastic rod and very easy to split.
No need to struggle unhooking it.
As it needs a special tool call master cylinder plier.
brilliant idea! will keep that in mind for the next time
This happened to me replaced the slave and now the master cylinder and im not getting any fluid coming through whats so ever 🤔
That's weird, have you tried a pressure bleeder?
@@torqueautomotivebedford its a weird one yup tried easy bleeder and also reverse bleed and nothing, check all the pipes and they are not block so ordered the 2nd one and fingers cross its ok🤞
reverse bleed, it's how vauxhall does it. Keep an eye on reservior for overspill.
Great video, I'm having a nightware, the retaining spring in the engine bay keeps popping, does it go in a certain way, the 3 "prongs" are flush with the connector, it just keeps poppng out
Hi, sorry I didn’t see this!! Check to see if the old O ring isn’t stuck in the slave pipe, that can do it!!
@@torqueautomotivebedford Appreciate the reply. I'll check that, doing my head in lol. At least I'm expert in bleeding them, takes me 5 minutes but pointless if the bloody clip pops after a few hard pumps. Anyway thanks again and have a good one.
How did you get on?
For the white plastic clip, use a strong tie wrap takes seconds
That works!! Good tip
Very helpful video. Thanks 👍🏽
Welcome
Thank you very much this video helped me out so much. Also I wish I had your patience as if I had to make a video doing this there would have been alot of bleeping😂
Great video, can’t wait to fix it now😉
Hope it helps you out bud!