These lectures take a lot of time and effort to prepare for you to present so smoothly. Sure you may have had some of these slides aready but it still takes prep. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Looking forward to 202 to help me choose oil for my BMW coming off the warranty.
I took an engine repair class this last fall at a local community college. The instructor (also department chair) is a fan of yours as he mentioned this YT channel several times.
@@themotoroilgeek I thought so, especially since he provided proper attribution to you rather than just saying he knew because he knew. This is possibly a dumb idea, but I think it would be exceptionally cool if you could provide legitimate automotive tech/repair students a super deep discount on two oil analysis, like maybe 75% discount for both. Ideally future technicians would be familiar with doing oil analysis and thus would order analysis from your company on the cars they work on professionally in the near future.
I use shell rotela t4 9 gallons and 1 gallon of t5 shell rotela synthetic blend for a total of 10 gallons in my diesel truck cat c13 and its been working just fine for years and well over a million miles.... And now thx to you and your collaboration with i believe the repair geek XPD fuel additive in the fuel tank for the injections lubricity!! Thank you ....
The breadth and depth of this presentation was truly remarkable and extremely useful. I’ve been watching your other videos for quite some time, but seeing all these aspects rolled into one was a great refresher, and I learned many new things. Being the son of a petroleum engineer and having grown up right on the grounds of a refinery, I’ve had some lifelong misconceptions corrected from watching your videos. Keep up the good work!
MAN do I wish this TH-cam thing was around when I was a teenager in the late 80's - early 90's! I probably would've went a completely different direction in life. We appreciate all the excellent info, Lake!!!
20:55 This is eye opening. As a former Corvair enthusiast, I've seen the oil temp on my 65 Corsa Turbo exceed 300 (550 head temp). This was in the late 80's. I wonder how long it took the old conventional oil to sheer at that temp. At least my Total Seals held up. ;)
Wish I had 0W-30 in my 84 F-150, I-6 300CID back in the day. One time it was so cold the starter cracked trying to start it up. Thank goodness for all the great synthetic oils made no matter your brand of preference.
Back in the day, diesel fuel was used to dilute the engine oil in very cold climates. Probably 1 quart would have solved your problem completely and without any damage to your robust Ford 300cid 6-cylinder workhorse.
Your "Motor Oil - 1965" slide brings back some not-so-good memories about my 1963 Chevy in Minnesota winters and engine rebuilds after 70K miles. Thank you for the excellent presentation. Presentations can be tested too. The test is whether the questions are Clarification questions (presentation failed) or Depth questions (presentation successful). I have depth questions. I look forward to your future (and past) "deep dive" presentations that you mentioned. Great job and thank you for the hard work you put into this.
Did you watch the latest "Dave's Auto Center" video? They had *900,000 mi Diesel engine* with lifter failure (due to weak design) only!!! - regular oil changes - Diesel lubrication additive - extra bypass BIG oil filter - oil rings almost not clogged up - all piston rings freely movable - surface treatment of the piston-skirts still visible - crankshaft and rod bearings barely worn or still in almost-new condition - CROSS-HONING STILL VISIBLE! - HIGH-PRESSURE DIESEL-PUMP WITH ROLLER STILL INTACT! 🤩👍
It was a good episode. Getting the contaminants out using a 1 micron filter and quality oil changes hopefully helped. Impressive the condition of those bearings and hardly any wear on the piston skirts. I'd like to see a spin-on 1 micron for my gas vehicle, assuming it wouldn't starve my oil supply.
@@stanton2534 a 1 micron filter doesn’t flow efficiently enough, the engine would starve for oil. I believe amsoil sells kits for just about any engine though. The kits only filter a small percentage of the oil at a time to prevent oil starvation.
@stanton2534 Fuel quality has influence on wear and on the endurane of oil aswell. I had a Toyota Prius Hybrid Mk II in the past. From 42,000 km onwards I ran on LPG (propane/butane mixture). The combustion of port-blown-in LPG produces barely any sud. The regular oil-change interval had been 15,000 km. My oil appeared after 15,000 km like canola oil fresh out of the bottle! 😂 Absolutely clear, almost colorless (I used clean synthetic oil made of natural gas.). After 22... 23k it got the first little clouds and the beginning of a bit colouring. It was medium brown at 26,000 km. So I changed it every 26 to 36 k! It sounds crazy, but the oil was very clean. I gave the car away with 384,000 km due to holes because of rust in the chassis. But the engine run still smooth and had full power, even with my "overdue" oil changings. I'm having a (smaller) Toyota Yaris now with the same 1NZ-FXE engine, running on gasoline. The oil has the same color after 3,000 to 5,000 km on gasoline as it had after 26,000 km in the other car with the same engine on LPG.
@@stanton2534 I made my own 10-micron bypass filttration system utilizing the Wix Filter specifications pages. You don't want a 10, or lower micron as your only and main filter, or else it would be in by-pass all the time. I use the Wix 51551 as it fits my remote base and it doesn't have a built-in bypass. The hose I use for the output of the filter flows directly into the oil filler cap, doesn't need to be high pressure and is clear with nylon reinforcement. I can see flow at a glance and can also when the cap is undone. If the flow decreases, or dribbles, I know it's time to replace the filter. In my setup, at no time is the engine oil circuit starved of flow.
Along with keeping to a reasonable OCI, he used a quality fuel additive which lubricated the entire fuel system better than fuel could do on its own. That's how his CP4 pump survived low-sulfur diesel. If the lifters had bushes, instead of the crap-weak little needle bearings, he could have gone a lot further. If Dave finds a good supplier for good lifters, he'll sell the hell out of them.
As I've said before I am the fleet manager for a delivery company, 50 trucks, gas and diesel. I use Speed Diagnostix for my oil samples. I am giving you permission to use my oil data in your videos. I am doing everything wrong according to everyone else in my industry yet the oil samples say otherwise. As they are replacing engines and adding qts of oil between PM's, I am not adding oil and going twice as far on a PM with engines lasting way way beyond everyone else's.
You are one of my favorite you tube people, you have educated me and I thank you for that. If people would just get oil changed like you say and I started getting oil analysis on both my vehicles and the latest on you suggested a different kind of Mobil 1 so I’ve trying it in the engine now. I hope you keep making more videos for a long time. I may take a road trip to Pennsylvania to where the oil industry started with the 1st oil well.
Two ideas are seemingly universal: 1) Change oil at regular intervals, and potentially at shorter intervals if under adverse conditions 2) Use the manufacturer recommended specified oil However, we all know engine manufacturers are limited by regulations, and perhaps choose a certain specification of oil to achieve certain governmental guidelines. Additionally, it certainly makes sense why a certain physical environment (such as living in Alaska) may alter recommended oil viscosities. Ultimately my question: is it common that the recommended oil for a specific engine may not be the best choice? In other words, would we all be better at using our brain, and choosing a oil that best/better fits the application?
@@KrazyKratosFan Thank you for the experiential insights. For my reference (trust, but verify), can you please point me to white paper studies or other evidence that supports this statement?
Was looking for an oil for a 1.5 l GM direct injection engine with a questionable service history … so I found Lake on TH-cam and now I am hooked… never thought I would be a motor oil geek … great videos!
Regarding oil temperature: I was on a NASCAR Craftsman Truck team in the early 2k's and common Practice was to preheat the oil (and circulate it) to about 205-215f before starting the engine. This helped the oil flow rate immediately on startup and minimized dry starting. Back then a Roush/Yates engine was only about 60k if I remember correctly...
What do you mean by preheat?? As in heat it up before? In a pot? Then pour in? And circulate? Do you mean just hit the starter so oil pumps around?? Sorry for the excessive questions, just ill informed and curious
Back in the 1990's I raced on a 5/8 dirt track with a spec motor,had restrictions on many things including oil pan. In 3 laps oil temperatures 20 50 were 280 and over 300 degrees in 5 laps. Surprisingly everytime the motor was rebuilt, never was told you have oil temp problems. If I remember correctly, most hp was with oil temperatures of 240.
@@spiritfluid1667 The engines were dry sump. To provide a sufficient amount of oil, a reservoir (tank) was located behind the driver's seat. The total system took around 16 quarts of oil. The tank has 1 or 2 heating elements and a temperature gauge. The oil pump is an external multi stage type. It is driven by a cogged belt off the crankshaft. The oil heater(s) was plugged in and the oil heated up to about 160-170 deg. The oil pump belt was removed so a drill could be used to turn the pump rapidly to circulate the oil. The oil temp in the tank would drop. The process would be repeated till all the oil was heated sufficiently before starting the engine.
Two hours of learning upon learning! This info needs to get out. I realize most people won't listen to this, so we need to get this out to our friends in bite size portions. Think of how many engines can be saved from an early failure given the current technologies that have hurt long term durability. Thank you Lake!
Just got a Porsche two months ago and I've learned a metric ton about oil and fuel additives from this channel. Even got a SPEEDiagnostix ready for when I change the oil. IMO this channel is undervalued especially if your a gear head or in the line of mechanics. Im a test and check jet engine mechanic by trade, love to see how some of the synthetic turbine engine oils measure up with all these tests.
Great video. I think everyone believes you are true and honest and you don’t have ‘prove’ where you get numbers from, imo. Very good info in every video.
@@themotoroilgeek I had hopes that since it was 101 that you might be explaining things a little more simply and in layman‘s terms, but I thought wrong, when are you gonna do a video for DIY and shade tree mechanics so we can understand a little bit about motor oil?
That tidbit about oil, atf and gear lube is reassuring. Got a quart of ATF in the engine of my 03 Silverado right now. Ol lifter was giving some grief and the old forums suggested running a quart of ATF before pulling it down for lifters. Got lucky and those detergents worked. Been quiet for a little over 2 weeks now. 🤞🏻
I use ATF as a flush before new oil changes. I have a few gallons of auto-trans fluid my current fleet cannot use, so instead of recycling perfectly good AFT, I use it for flushing. I run a few minutes just above idle, unloaded, then drain it out. The design of my oil pan is such that several ounces is trapped as the drain plug is not the lowest point. I am contemplating one of those suction kits so I can get a more thorough drain.
Wow!!! You are a Neil deGrasse Tyson of tribology. I got at least a couple of semesters worth of high level practical info in less than couple of hours in lay speak that my 'punter' mind can understand. Absolutely top notch. Keep up the great content. You generated an additional 10 questions (for me), for everyone you answered and it sounds like you have more info on the way in the near future...I am looking forward to learning more from Professor Speed the near future...a virtual crash course for car nerds like myself.
Happy New Year, Lake. I am so glad you're taking the time to educate us luddites on oil technology and I especially appreciate how you do NOT condone us becoming "master chefs" and baking cakes with just any-old ingredients and think we know more than the oil makers and testing facilities. Too many people fall for the snake oil and concoct mixtures they are "sold" and think they're ahead of the game. It's akin to the gas-saving and power-adding doo-dads that if you bought and used all of them, you would save more gas and make more horsepower than you consumed! ;-)
Thanks Lake. Fantastic livestream (unfortunately, being in Australia, I couldn't attend live, but so be it). I'm really looking forward to the "201" and beyond!
That is kind of my go to motto as well,,, "oil is the lifeblood of an engine" and for other mechanical units, like transmissions/gearboxes, differentials & hydralic systems etc too.
Love hearing from you. Learn so much after I sort thru the acronyms. I keep thinking how to reach a mass audience that is just “trusting theur service mechanics”.
Idea if you haven't already done it-A list of all the API classifications since the beginning along with the change they brought to the product. I am 55 and can remember when SE was used and if I remember correctly it came out around 1978. Also,I think that was about the time 10W-40 became popular to use where as before it was 30W, 10W-30, or 20W-50.
Have you a video on, “What type of applications do I need?” Daily driver, stop & go, warm climate, cool, cold climate, mower, boat engine, tractor, etc. What do I get if I go with the flow and take what the OEM dealers give me or take from the shelf at Walmart? Must I seek a finer tuned package? How does testing fit into a good maintenance program for me? For me it was, Trust but verify.
It just makes my day when a new one of your video’s comes out! I feel at the auto store I can give people way better advice about oil. I love learning and oil is so cool, now that you are my teacher. Thanks you for your time and effort. Trying the Ultra Platinum in my son’s 2007 Impala 3.5 only 53,000 on it. Has never run better. Also trying Restore and Protect on my 2007 Suburban. 187,000 Lived in AZ and MN with both these cars. Had Royal Purple in the Suburban. Maybe in future I’ll get some oil test on these to see how they are doing. Keep up the great channel. It’s kind of grown into my fav channel on TH-cam! Keep up the Great Work, Making Motor Oil Great Again. MMGA 👍
@ I also took your advice on adding Techron complete fuel system cleaner at my oil changes. I think that is what actually plus oil smoothed out the idle of the 2007 Impala.
Ben a subscriber for probably a year or more. Always learning from your videos. I'm using your recommendations for my car and other internal combination engines. And finding better performance and cooler running 👍. My biggest take was understanding application is the number 1 factor in choosing motor oil. Thanks for sharing your knowledge so we can all make better choices 😉.
Hello, a viewer all the way from New Zealand. Absolutely love your channel. I would be super interested in a video comparing light duty diesel oils and heavy duty diesel oils.
I would love to see a break down on Shell T6 5W-40 specifically how it works in application of HEUI diesel engines. My grandfather taught engineering he was very thorough and taught there’s never a best across the board you have to do your homework. Thanks for all you do.
I always used motorcraft but switched to the T6 5W-40 because it gave me smoother starts after long periods of the truck sitting up. The additive packages and viscosity of the motorcraft 15-40 and the T6 5-40 are quite similar. Just curious how it holds up over time in the HEUI engines.
What is your impression of Kirkland Signature synthetic products and SuperTech synthetic products? good products when I do frequent oil changes (5000km)? or is it strongly recommended to purchase Penzoil Ultra or Platium to keep my vehicle for a long time? with oil filter changes for original manufacturer models. Thanks for everything!
Thanks a ton for sharing your knowledge and experience. I sling parts for a living and play with pre 2k rigs. I enjoy doing deep dive research on many things and finding good quality information is a bit tough. Love finding people like yourself that not only brings the science but can explain it in a way the layman can begin to understand and (hopefully) realize how important oil/blood and filters/liver are for the engine/heart of your rig.
I remember an old commercial where they opened a can of oil up in Alaska? when the temperature was WAY below 0 F. The oil didn't pour...it was more like wheel bearing grease.
Oil newby, truth be told, I never thought much about the chemistry of oils. I need to be familiar with what you are explaining and to do so, I have to do some reading. You are fine LSJ.
Nice job. Short attention span, so had to break up into sections. I'm a long time bitog member/reader but it's useful to see and digest oil info in video form. My apologies if I came on a bit strong on the other yt about prefiling an oil filter, meant no disrespect. Thanks for your efforts.
Lake, I’ve been watching videos for a couple years now, and have learned so much. May I suggest that your next overview video be on European spec oils.
0W-8 Comparison of Toyota vs Mobil 1. I'm wanting to see that! I'd like to see your analysis and breakdown of the additive packages as to helping the engines that use these grades of oil to make the engines live longer in real world applications. Everyone is skeptical on the low weight oils. They'd like assurances the additive packages truly help reduce wear and are capable of extending the life of the engines. Always been a fan of Mobile 1 Synthetic from my days working in IndyCar. I'm interested on their take for sure. Keep up the great work!
Can you compare NAPA house brand vs Valvoline branded oils? The NAPA branded oil says created by Valvoline right on the bottle. Are the interchangeable???
Lake, I missed this stream because I was ill. You mentioned oils and some are "C's get degrees" or "Good enough" ... Does that make Boutique brands like Amsoil, HP, Royal Purple, Redline "A rated" oils because they go above and beyond and build their oils to be more for high end performance versus "good enough to meet the spec"? I know Amsoil for example does actual testing in their own labs with their own engines. Not to the degree of a licensing lab, but to improve upon the "Good enough" spec's to take them a lot further. Thanks
Top presentation. We need to thank you for providing this hard sort information. It looks like oil tech is great. But I feel engine tech has gone backwards. So many problem engines and transmissions not lasting the distance, it seems what is the point of the excellent oils being produced. We also should be looking at "let's make engines great again".
Hey man absolutely love your content. Have a question if you don’t mind. Just wanted to know if oil consumption can occur due to the brand of oil you’re using? Lots of people have opinions of different oil brands. This is like excluding the obvious causes like engine condition, piston ring deposits, etc. So just want to know if the brand can cause it ( oil meets all specifications and manufacturer approval).
I’m 57 years old . Been a mechanic since I left school at 15 years old and began my apprenticeship. I fixed cars for 30 years as well as being an Auto transmission builder . Later I trained and worked on outboard motors which is what I’m still doing today. 42 years of experience. I’ve never had an oil analysis 😂 It’s laughable. I have serviced people’s cars from when they were new until being sold 25 years later. Let me tell you something.. JUST CHANGE THE OIL !!! Use something rated accordingly. Don’t use 0/20 in hot climates use 5/30 . Change the oil on time and your engine will last hundreds of thousands of kilometres. Seen it with my own eyes .
I have always for years done the first oil change at 500-1000 miles with excellent results. I live in Florida where we have hot summers. I have been using Castrol Edge 5W-30 synthetic, changing every 5000 for years because I felt it was better suited for the temperatures here. I have had 2 Mazda's (dealer recommends 0W-20) that I sold at 150000 - 160000 miles with no engine problems and very minimal oil usage between changes. Any comments of the brand or weight?
@themotoroilgeek answer this. A car bought in cold climates or hot climates recommend the SAME oil such as 5W30. So how can that oil be "Best" regardless of climate? Extreme heat would seem to need a different oil than Extreme cold.
Clearly, you don't understand what each of the numbers in the viscosity set means you should watch some more of lake speed's videos when he talks about what each of those numbers mean in terms of ambient air temperature and the temperature of the engine and the actual temperature of the oil. Once the engine warms up to find your answer.
In order to minimize the "risk of negative synergies" when changing oil brands, can one drastically reduce the oil change intervals during the double flush phase? If so, what is the minimum interval?
@ sounds wise. There was a recent video basically discrediting and/or showing no benefit but it sure can't hurt and I'm gonna trust Lake. I can sense Lake's passion for the science.
Hi, i will be very interested to hear your opinion about "Total ineo extra first 0w20" and "Total Ineo RCP 5w30" Also how Total comper to another big oil company's? Thanks in advance!
I would love to be able to preheat my oil somewhat on cold mornings and run an electric oil pump to establish pressure and flow prior to cranking. Damn! And, 0W-60 seems like a great idea...
How can one know that the factory oil recommendation is correct for where one resides and how the individual uses the product…what is the goal to achieve…please advise
Great livestream, apologies if my question was answered in the video! On the internet it is often stated that there is no benefit to running a 0W oil unless temperatures fall below -30F. However, isn't it true that oils are allowed to slip a winter grade in service, and should that possiblity impact one's oil selection and/or change interval? I've read that this slip can happen quite early into an oil's service life as well. Do API/ILSAC or OEM specs require an aged oil pumpability/cranking test, or just one when the oil is new? If not, a 5W could slip within a few thousand miles to a 10W which is only rated to crank sufficiently at or above about -13F, not all that cold for a lot of North America. My Lycoming IO-360 using Aeroshell15W-50 will not start at all below about 10F without preheat, in my opinion due to high CCS and degraded cold weather battery performance. -From Alaska
Fabulous content LSJ. I have a truck that I don't drive every day but do truck stuff on weekends. The app provides an "auto-start" feature. Is it better to just let it sit without starting all week, or would it be better to let it auto-start once or twice a week? I think it runs to shut off value which is maybe 10-15 minutes. It is gas; the Godzilla engine, 2023. Thanks.
![Top 10 Motor Oil Questions Answered [by a Certified Lubrication Specialist]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mr07y1H3U7c/mqdefault.jpg)
![Top 10 Motor Oil Questions Answered [by a Certified Lubrication Specialist]](/img/tr.png)
To be able to get this level of education for free is simply amazing. Thank you Lake!
These lectures take a lot of time and effort to prepare for you to present so smoothly. Sure you may have had some of these slides aready but it still takes prep. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Looking forward to 202 to help me choose oil for my BMW coming off the warranty.
My pleasure!
I took an engine repair class this last fall at a local community college. The instructor (also department chair) is a fan of yours as he mentioned this YT channel several times.
That's cool!
@@themotoroilgeek I thought so, especially since he provided proper attribution to you rather than just saying he knew because he knew.
This is possibly a dumb idea, but I think it would be exceptionally cool if you could provide legitimate automotive tech/repair students a super deep discount on two oil analysis, like maybe 75% discount for both. Ideally future technicians would be familiar with doing oil analysis and thus would order analysis from your company on the cars they work on professionally in the near future.
I use shell rotela t4 9 gallons and 1 gallon of t5 shell rotela synthetic blend for a total of 10 gallons in my diesel truck cat c13 and its been working just fine for years and well over a million miles.... And now thx to you and your collaboration with i believe the repair geek XPD fuel additive in the fuel tank for the injections lubricity!! Thank you ....
The breadth and depth of this presentation was truly remarkable and extremely useful. I’ve been watching your other videos for quite some time, but seeing all these aspects rolled into one was a great refresher, and I learned many new things. Being the son of a petroleum engineer and having grown up right on the grounds of a refinery, I’ve had some lifelong misconceptions corrected from watching your videos. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
MAN do I wish this TH-cam thing was around when I was a teenager in the late 80's - early 90's! I probably would've went a completely different direction in life. We appreciate all the excellent info, Lake!!!
Thank you for making this available on replay as I'm not able to watch it live
Our pleasure!
Motor oil will never be the same with this much info, mind boggling, great job again Lake. P.S. keep the motor oil info flowing.😃
Thank you!
20:55 This is eye opening. As a former Corvair enthusiast, I've seen the oil temp on my 65 Corsa Turbo exceed 300 (550 head temp). This was in the late 80's. I wonder how long it took the old conventional oil to sheer at that temp. At least my Total Seals held up. ;)
Wish I had 0W-30 in my 84 F-150, I-6 300CID back in the day. One time it was so cold the starter cracked trying to start it up. Thank goodness for all the great synthetic oils made no matter your brand of preference.
Back in the day, diesel fuel was used to dilute the engine oil in very cold climates. Probably 1 quart would have solved your problem completely and without any damage to your robust Ford 300cid 6-cylinder workhorse.
@@jamesplotkin4674very interesting never heard of such a thing.
@@jamesplotkin4674thanks, I actually forgot that, AND some other weirid things done…..
Your "Motor Oil - 1965" slide brings back some not-so-good memories about my 1963 Chevy in Minnesota winters and engine rebuilds after 70K miles. Thank you for the excellent presentation.
Presentations can be tested too. The test is whether the questions are Clarification questions (presentation failed) or Depth questions (presentation successful). I have depth questions. I look forward to your future (and past) "deep dive" presentations that you mentioned. Great job and thank you for the hard work you put into this.
Thanks for doing this live stream, Lake. Always looking forward to a new video from you
Did you watch the latest "Dave's Auto Center" video?
They had *900,000 mi Diesel engine* with lifter failure (due to weak design) only!!!
- regular oil changes
- Diesel lubrication additive
- extra bypass BIG oil filter
- oil rings almost not clogged up
- all piston rings freely movable
- surface treatment of the piston-skirts still visible
- crankshaft and rod bearings barely worn or still in almost-new condition
- CROSS-HONING STILL VISIBLE!
- HIGH-PRESSURE DIESEL-PUMP WITH ROLLER STILL INTACT!
🤩👍
It was a good episode. Getting the contaminants out using a 1 micron filter and quality oil changes hopefully helped. Impressive the condition of those bearings and hardly any wear on the piston skirts. I'd like to see a spin-on 1 micron for my gas vehicle, assuming it wouldn't starve my oil supply.
@@stanton2534 a 1 micron filter doesn’t flow efficiently enough, the engine would starve for oil. I believe amsoil sells kits for just about any engine though. The kits only filter a small percentage of the oil at a time to prevent oil starvation.
@stanton2534 Fuel quality has influence on wear and on the endurane of oil aswell.
I had a Toyota Prius Hybrid Mk II in the past. From 42,000 km onwards I ran on LPG (propane/butane mixture). The combustion of port-blown-in LPG produces barely any sud.
The regular oil-change interval had been 15,000 km. My oil appeared after 15,000 km like canola oil fresh out of the bottle! 😂 Absolutely clear, almost colorless (I used clean synthetic oil made of natural gas.). After 22... 23k it got the first little clouds and the beginning of a bit colouring. It was medium brown at 26,000 km. So I changed it every 26 to 36 k! It sounds crazy, but the oil was very clean. I gave the car away with 384,000 km due to holes because of rust in the chassis. But the engine run still smooth and had full power, even with my "overdue" oil changings.
I'm having a (smaller) Toyota Yaris now with the same 1NZ-FXE engine, running on gasoline. The oil has the same color after 3,000 to 5,000 km on gasoline as it had after 26,000 km in the other car with the same engine on LPG.
@@stanton2534 I made my own 10-micron bypass filttration system utilizing the Wix Filter specifications pages. You don't want a 10, or lower micron as your only and main filter, or else it would be in by-pass all the time. I use the Wix 51551 as it fits my remote base and it doesn't have a built-in bypass. The hose I use for the output of the filter flows directly into the oil filler cap, doesn't need to be high pressure and is clear with nylon reinforcement. I can see flow at a glance and can also when the cap is undone. If the flow decreases, or dribbles, I know it's time to replace the filter. In my setup, at no time is the engine oil circuit starved of flow.
Along with keeping to a reasonable OCI, he used a quality fuel additive which lubricated the entire fuel system better than fuel could do on its own. That's how his CP4 pump survived low-sulfur diesel. If the lifters had bushes, instead of the crap-weak little needle bearings, he could have gone a lot further. If Dave finds a good supplier for good lifters, he'll sell the hell out of them.
Very good video....lots to learn
I agree completely
Hi Lake,
Would you be interested in making a deep dive into the engine flushes and why you would not advise using them?
Looking foreward to this !
As I've said before I am the fleet manager for a delivery company, 50 trucks, gas and diesel. I use Speed Diagnostix for my oil samples. I am giving you permission to use my oil data in your videos. I am doing everything wrong according to everyone else in my industry yet the oil samples say otherwise. As they are replacing engines and adding qts of oil between PM's, I am not adding oil and going twice as far on a PM with engines lasting way way beyond everyone else's.
Thank you for sharing! It is appreciated!
Yes, Tribology and engine oil is super interesting bc it is so relevant to our lives/use of motors
You are one of my favorite you tube people, you have educated me and I thank you for that. If people would just get oil changed like you say and I started getting oil analysis on both my vehicles and the latest on you suggested a different kind of Mobil 1 so I’ve trying it in the engine now. I hope you keep making more videos for a long time. I may take a road trip to Pennsylvania to where the oil industry started with the 1st oil well.
Thanks!
Two ideas are seemingly universal:
1) Change oil at regular intervals, and potentially at shorter intervals if under adverse conditions
2) Use the manufacturer recommended specified oil
However, we all know engine manufacturers are limited by regulations, and perhaps choose a certain specification of oil to achieve certain governmental guidelines. Additionally, it certainly makes sense why a certain physical environment (such as living in Alaska) may alter recommended oil viscosities.
Ultimately my question: is it common that the recommended oil for a specific engine may not be the best choice? In other words, would we all be better at using our brain, and choosing a oil that best/better fits the application?
In most cases you will achieve better longevity in an engine by running a higher viscosity than what's recommended by the manufacturer.
@@KrazyKratosFan Thank you for the experiential insights. For my reference (trust, but verify), can you please point me to white paper studies or other evidence that supports this statement?
Was looking for an oil for a 1.5 l GM direct injection engine with a questionable service history … so I found Lake on TH-cam and now I am hooked… never thought I would be a motor oil geek … great videos!
Regarding oil temperature: I was on a NASCAR Craftsman Truck team in the early 2k's and common Practice was to preheat the oil (and circulate it) to about 205-215f before starting the engine. This helped the oil flow rate immediately on startup and minimized dry starting. Back then a Roush/Yates engine was only about 60k if I remember correctly...
Yep!
What do you mean by preheat?? As in heat it up before? In a pot? Then pour in?
And circulate? Do you mean just hit the starter so oil pumps around??
Sorry for the excessive questions, just ill informed and curious
Back in the 1990's I raced on a 5/8 dirt track with a spec motor,had restrictions on many things including oil pan. In 3 laps oil temperatures 20 50 were 280 and over 300 degrees in 5 laps. Surprisingly everytime the motor was rebuilt, never was told you have oil temp problems. If I remember correctly, most hp was with oil temperatures of 240.
@@spiritfluid1667 The engines were dry sump. To provide a sufficient amount of oil, a reservoir (tank) was located behind the driver's seat. The total system took around 16 quarts of oil. The tank has 1 or 2 heating elements and a temperature gauge. The oil pump is an external multi
stage type. It is driven by a cogged belt off the crankshaft. The oil heater(s) was plugged in and the oil heated up to about 160-170 deg. The oil pump belt was removed so a drill could be used to turn the pump rapidly to circulate the oil. The oil temp in the tank would drop. The process would be repeated till all the oil was heated sufficiently before starting the engine.
@@spiritfluid1667 The oil tank has a heater on it, so we could pre-heat the oil before starting the engine.
Another old BITOG guy here. Keep up the good work, we appreciate your dedication.
Thanks, will do!
What was your main take away from the live stream? What did you learn?
Two hours of learning upon learning! This info needs to get out. I realize most people won't listen to this, so we need to get this out to our friends in bite size portions. Think of how many engines can be saved from an early failure given the current technologies that have hurt long term durability. Thank you Lake!
Just got a Porsche two months ago and I've learned a metric ton about oil and fuel additives from this channel. Even got a SPEEDiagnostix ready for when I change the oil. IMO this channel is undervalued especially if your a gear head or in the line of mechanics. Im a test and check jet engine mechanic by trade, love to see how some of the synthetic turbine engine oils measure up with all these tests.
Great video. I think everyone believes you are true and honest and you don’t have ‘prove’ where you get numbers from, imo. Very good info in every video.
Can't wait for motor oil 201 !!!
I'm a big fan of all your knowledge
Thank you!
@@themotoroilgeek I had hopes that since it was 101 that you might be explaining things a little more simply and in layman‘s terms, but I thought wrong, when are you gonna do a video for DIY and shade tree mechanics so we can understand a little bit about motor oil?
@@DanielSmith-bv5fq we are going to make a video for folks who are not interested in the chemistry.
That tidbit about oil, atf and gear lube is reassuring. Got a quart of ATF in the engine of my 03 Silverado right now. Ol lifter was giving some grief and the old forums suggested running a quart of ATF before pulling it down for lifters. Got lucky and those detergents worked. Been quiet for a little over 2 weeks now. 🤞🏻
I use ATF as a flush before new oil changes. I have a few gallons of auto-trans fluid my current fleet cannot use, so instead of recycling perfectly good AFT, I use it for flushing. I run a few minutes just above idle, unloaded, then drain it out. The design of my oil pan is such that several ounces is trapped as the drain plug is not the lowest point. I am contemplating one of those suction kits so I can get a more thorough drain.
Valvoline can solve that
A friend used liquid moly’s engine flush and their oil and his tapping lifter noise went away. It was impressive.
Thank you for the time/effort to put the videos together. Lots to learn.
Wow!!! You are a Neil deGrasse Tyson of tribology. I got at least a couple of semesters worth of high level practical info in less than couple of hours in lay speak that my 'punter' mind can understand. Absolutely top notch. Keep up the great content. You generated an additional 10 questions (for me), for everyone you answered and it sounds like you have more info on the way in the near future...I am looking forward to learning more from Professor Speed the near future...a virtual crash course for car nerds like myself.
Happy New Year, Lake. I am so glad you're taking the time to educate us luddites on oil technology and I especially appreciate how you do NOT condone us becoming "master chefs" and baking cakes with just any-old ingredients and think we know more than the oil makers and testing facilities. Too many people fall for the snake oil and concoct mixtures they are "sold" and think they're ahead of the game. It's akin to the gas-saving and power-adding doo-dads that if you bought and used all of them, you would save more gas and make more horsepower than you consumed! ;-)
Great segment, loved it Lake, good info!
Thank you Lake! Always appreciate your videos with tons of information.
Thanks Lake. Fantastic livestream (unfortunately, being in Australia, I couldn't attend live, but so be it). I'm really looking forward to the "201" and beyond!
That is kind of my go to motto as well,,, "oil is the lifeblood of an engine" and for other mechanical units, like transmissions/gearboxes, differentials & hydralic systems etc too.
Thanks!
Love hearing from you. Learn so much after I sort thru the acronyms. I keep thinking how to reach a mass audience that is just “trusting theur service mechanics”.
I love watching this channel. You are so informative.
Going back to original spec oil for my Titan
Thanks!
Idea if you haven't already done it-A list of all the API classifications since the beginning along with the change they brought to the product. I am 55 and can remember when SE was used and if I remember correctly it came out around 1978. Also,I think that was about the time 10W-40 became popular to use where as before it was 30W, 10W-30, or 20W-50.
Have you a video on, “What type of applications do I need?” Daily driver, stop & go, warm climate, cool, cold climate, mower, boat engine, tractor, etc. What do I get if I go with the flow and take what the OEM dealers give me or take from the shelf at Walmart? Must I seek a finer tuned package? How does testing fit into a good maintenance program for me? For me it was, Trust but verify.
It just makes my day when a new one of your video’s comes out!
I feel at the auto store I can give people way better advice about oil.
I love learning and oil is so cool, now that you are my teacher.
Thanks you for your time and effort.
Trying the Ultra Platinum in my son’s 2007 Impala 3.5 only 53,000 on it. Has never run better.
Also trying Restore and Protect on my 2007 Suburban.
187,000
Lived in AZ and MN with both these cars.
Had Royal Purple in the Suburban.
Maybe in future I’ll get some oil test on these to see how they are doing.
Keep up the great channel. It’s kind of grown into my fav channel on TH-cam!
Keep up the Great Work, Making Motor Oil Great Again. MMGA 👍
Thanks!
@ I also took your advice on adding Techron complete fuel system cleaner at my oil changes. I think that is what actually plus oil smoothed out the idle of the 2007 Impala.
Another great video with way more information than I learned my whole 13yrs in school
You just keep getting better Lake !
Thanks!
Ben a subscriber for probably a year or more. Always learning from your videos. I'm using your recommendations for my car and other internal combination engines. And finding better performance and cooler running 👍. My biggest take was understanding application is the number 1 factor in choosing motor oil.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge so we can all make better choices 😉.
Awesome! Thank you!
Lake, thank you for your wealth of knowledge! Your info is amazing!
Hello, a viewer all the way from New Zealand. Absolutely love your channel. I would be super interested in a video comparing light duty diesel oils and heavy duty diesel oils.
I would love to see a break down on Shell T6 5W-40 specifically how it works in application of HEUI diesel engines. My grandfather taught engineering he was very thorough and taught there’s never a best across the board you have to do your homework. Thanks for all you do.
I would love the same as I run T4 in my 7.3 powerstroke.
I always used motorcraft but switched to the T6 5W-40 because it gave me smoother starts after long periods of the truck sitting up. The additive packages and viscosity of the motorcraft 15-40 and the T6 5-40 are quite similar. Just curious how it holds up over time in the HEUI engines.
Excellent info and explanation. Looking forward to more.
Thanks
Great video! I must admit, I had a bunch of preconceived notions that you dispelled, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Lake. Another good one. I get the impression that the oil development is a little behind in accommodating the newer direct injection engines.
Share the knowledge!!! GREAT info!!! Love data! Love tests! The more the better! Thanks Lake!!! Keep it coming!!
More to come!
Amazing 101. Great stuff!
Happy NY to all.
Thanks!
Wow! Thank you so much!
What is your impression of Kirkland Signature synthetic products and SuperTech synthetic products? good products when I do frequent oil changes (5000km)?
or is it strongly recommended to purchase Penzoil Ultra or Platium to keep my vehicle for a long time? with oil filter changes for original manufacturer models.
Thanks for everything!
Very well done. Could I have your thoughts on the use of diesel oils, like Rotella in flat tappet classic cars?
I knew a lot of this,But I learned A LOT too!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge to help us all out!!
Enjoy your videos ,over in e. Oregon
Thanks 👍
Really good and professional channel.
Thanks!
Thanks a ton for sharing your knowledge and experience. I sling parts for a living and play with pre 2k rigs. I enjoy doing deep dive research on many things and finding good quality information is a bit tough. Love finding people like yourself that not only brings the science but can explain it in a way the layman can begin to understand and (hopefully) realize how important oil/blood and filters/liver are for the engine/heart of your rig.
"If you cant measure it, you cant manage it". Always educational, Thanks.
Btw, 99% of the comments appreciate what you’re doing, don’t let the 1% bring you down.
Thanks for the great information, Lake keep up the good work, Thank you
Thanks for watching!
I use what the factory recommends and in 50 years never had an oil related failure on my cars, trucks or motorcycles 😊
I remember an old commercial where they opened a can of oil up in Alaska? when the temperature was WAY below 0 F. The oil didn't pour...it was more like wheel bearing grease.
Thanks for sharing!
I would like to see a comparison between diesel synthetic oils, Shell Rotella T6 10W30 VS others.
best motor oil video ever
Thanks!
WOW amazing TY so much ,,Keep up the great work
That Pennzoil slide still brings heartache to people when Pennzoil is mentioned😅. Amazing how people hold to tight to old beliefs.
LOL
Thank you LSJ, I don't understand everything, but I'm going to work on it.
We will keep working to explain things better.
Oil newby, truth be told, I never thought much about the chemistry of oils. I need to be familiar with what you are explaining and to do so, I have to do some reading. You are fine LSJ.
Awsome information! Keep it coming.
Thanks! Will do!
Nice job. Short attention span, so had to break up into sections. I'm a long time bitog member/reader but it's useful to see and digest oil info in video form. My apologies if I came on a bit strong on the other yt about prefiling an oil filter, meant no disrespect. Thanks for your efforts.
No worries! Thanks!
When are you visiting edmonton alberta canada lol we have a huge oil refinery here, I can listen to you for days
Great show and presentation.
Thanks!
Lake, I’ve been watching videos for a couple years now, and have learned so much. May I suggest that your next overview video be on European spec oils.
Perhaps you should consider teaching. Your talk is very interesting.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Wow, thank you
Thanks for taking the time to share this information. Blessings to you, and have a wonderful 2025!
Thanks!
0W-8 Comparison of Toyota vs Mobil 1. I'm wanting to see that! I'd like to see your analysis and breakdown of the additive packages as to helping the engines that use these grades of oil to make the engines live longer in real world applications. Everyone is skeptical on the low weight oils. They'd like assurances the additive packages truly help reduce wear and are capable of extending the life of the engines. Always been a fan of Mobile 1 Synthetic from my days working in IndyCar. I'm interested on their take for sure. Keep up the great work!
Obviously the oil works perfectly fine, since all those cars are out driving around. Relax. It has a warranty. Drive it.
Look at AMSOIL's 0W-08
I’m curious to know your opinion on external bypass oil filtration for diesel engines.
I really enjoy your videos.
I appreciate that!
Can you compare NAPA house brand vs Valvoline branded oils? The NAPA branded oil says created by Valvoline right on the bottle. Are the interchangeable???
Lake, I missed this stream because I was ill. You mentioned oils and some are "C's get degrees" or "Good enough" ... Does that make Boutique brands like Amsoil, HP, Royal Purple, Redline "A rated" oils because they go above and beyond and build their oils to be more for high end performance versus "good enough to meet the spec"? I know Amsoil for example does actual testing in their own labs with their own engines. Not to the degree of a licensing lab, but to improve upon the "Good enough" spec's to take them a lot further. Thanks
Thanks for watching the replay. Stay tuned for that answer. We have an engine test coming soon that will provide those results.
@@themotoroilgeek YAY! .. Have a good week!
Great video. Thanks 🇺🇸
Great information! Would love more infomation on amsoil testing done.
Top presentation. We need to thank you for providing this hard sort information. It looks like oil tech is great. But I feel engine tech has gone backwards. So many problem engines and transmissions not lasting the distance, it seems what is the point of the excellent oils being produced. We also should be looking at "let's make engines great again".
Hey man absolutely love your content. Have a question if you don’t mind. Just wanted to know if oil consumption can occur due to the brand of oil you’re using? Lots of people have opinions of different oil brands. This is like excluding the obvious causes like engine condition, piston ring deposits, etc. So just want to know if the brand can cause it ( oil meets all specifications and manufacturer approval).
My Saturday is now complete now there is a new Lake Speed Jr. vid! ETA spelling
LOL
I’m 57 years old . Been a mechanic since I left school at 15 years old and began my apprenticeship. I fixed cars for 30 years as well as being an Auto transmission builder . Later I trained and worked on outboard motors which is what I’m still doing today. 42 years of experience. I’ve never had an oil analysis 😂 It’s laughable. I have serviced people’s cars from when they were new until being sold 25 years later. Let me tell you something.. JUST CHANGE THE OIL !!! Use something rated accordingly. Don’t use 0/20 in hot climates use 5/30 . Change the oil on time and your engine will last hundreds of thousands of kilometres. Seen it with my own eyes .
Thank you 😊
Excellent informative video
Q: will you address the break down of oil over time (open container). oil change requirements via time Years). Thanks!
I have always for years done the first oil change at 500-1000 miles with excellent results. I live in Florida where we have hot summers. I have been using Castrol Edge 5W-30 synthetic, changing every 5000 for years because I felt it was better suited for the temperatures here. I have had 2 Mazda's (dealer recommends 0W-20) that I sold at 150000 - 160000 miles with no engine problems and very minimal oil usage between changes. Any comments of the brand or weight?
@themotoroilgeek answer this. A car bought in cold climates or hot climates recommend the SAME oil such as 5W30. So how can that oil be "Best" regardless of climate? Extreme heat would seem to need a different oil than Extreme cold.
The recommendation from the factory is based mostly on EPA fuel economy requirements.
Clearly, you don't understand what each of the numbers in the viscosity set means you should watch some more of lake speed's videos when he talks about what each of those numbers mean in terms of ambient air temperature and the temperature of the engine and the actual temperature of the oil. Once the engine warms up to find your answer.
actually in the manual for that vehicle it will suggest different grade of viscosity if it will be operated in extreme heat or cold.
In order to minimize the "risk of negative synergies" when changing oil brands, can one drastically reduce the oil change intervals during the double flush phase? If so, what is the minimum interval?
100 to 200 miles would do that.
Is it really the direct injection causing soot or is it the modern egr systems?
Excellent video! Very interesting. However, the way I understand it is that Redline oil is actually a PAO Ester blend.
They might have some products that are, but there mainline engine oils are full Ester. That's what the analysis shows.
I'm still gonna prefill my oil filters when possible 😉
It just makes sense to me.
Me too!
@@XBX1MASTER
I’ve done it for decades.
@ sounds wise. There was a recent video basically discrediting and/or showing no benefit but it sure can't hurt and I'm gonna trust Lake. I can sense Lake's passion for the science.
UOA’s show pre filled filters reduce wear.
@@XBX1MASTERI saw that video. He had some great info on ring wear. Other than that, I’m going to keep pre-filling oil filters.
Can you please review motul power and 300v??!!
Hi, i will be very interested to hear your opinion about "Total ineo extra first 0w20" and "Total Ineo RCP 5w30"
Also how Total comper to another big oil company's?
Thanks in advance!
Anything close to restore and protect for Diesel engines
I would love to be able to preheat my oil somewhat on cold mornings and run an electric oil pump to establish pressure and flow prior to cranking. Damn! And, 0W-60 seems like a great idea...
How can one know that the factory oil recommendation is correct for where one resides and how the individual uses the product…what is the goal to achieve…please advise
Check your owner's manual. The basic info you need is right there.
Great livestream, apologies if my question was answered in the video! On the internet it is often stated that there is no benefit to running a 0W oil unless temperatures fall below -30F. However, isn't it true that oils are allowed to slip a winter grade in service, and should that possiblity impact one's oil selection and/or change interval? I've read that this slip can happen quite early into an oil's service life as well. Do API/ILSAC or OEM specs require an aged oil pumpability/cranking test, or just one when the oil is new? If not, a 5W could slip within a few thousand miles to a 10W which is only rated to crank sufficiently at or above about -13F, not all that cold for a lot of North America. My Lycoming IO-360 using Aeroshell15W-50 will not start at all below about 10F without preheat, in my opinion due to high CCS and degraded cold weather battery performance. -From Alaska
Have you ever considered doing research on different oil filters to see which is best?
We are going to look into that.
@@themotoroilgeek Thank You!
@@HeddyL-y8i
BITOG has done that
I second this motion of research
Fabulous content LSJ. I have a truck that I don't drive every day but do truck stuff on weekends. The app provides an "auto-start" feature. Is it better to just let it sit without starting all week, or would it be better to let it auto-start once or twice a week? I think it runs to shut off value which is maybe 10-15 minutes. It is gas; the Godzilla engine, 2023. Thanks.