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Virago Rusted Swing Arm Bolt Removal - WHY WON'T YOU JUST COME OUT ?!?!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 เม.ย. 2021
- Trials on an extra swing arm from a parts bike to see if the rusted bolt could be removed without having to cut it out. Failed and still ended up cutting it out, but the video shows how to cut it out as well as things I tried. Adding the hole for the grease fitting might work if it had not been too rusted up.
Whoa! Steve. I just went through this ordeal last week. I ended up doing the same thing by grinding through the bolt shaft to get it off. The bearings were completely destroyed by rust. When the bolt/bushing came out it was literally rust welded together. I ended up stripping the threads in the swing arm. Looking for a replacement pivot bolt to replace the one I cut through was tough sledding. Yamaha doesn't make them anymore and used ones are seemingly quite rare. I was lucky to find one but I had to buy a used swing arm (which it turned out I needed anyway after I stripped the threads) to get my hands on one as the seller was selling the swing arm and the pivot bolt as a unit. At least I don't feel too bad after watching you go thorough exactly what I did only to end up just cutting the thing off. I feel like I'm in good company. Looking forward to finishing my project so I can put on the billet oil cap with the pressure gauge I got from you. Alright! Take Care - Dave from Canada
For sure that bolt can be a real pain if it’s rusted up...there was no way that thing was coming out of there, lol. I figured folks that had run into the same issue would enjoy watching my failed attempts vs. just showing how to cut it out...at a minimum just to know others ended up doing the same thing in the end 👍. At least now I know not to waste a half a day trying and just go ahead and cut it out if this comes up again, lol.
Great video. Those boots look so comfortable and great quality! 😊
Thanks man 👍. That bolt is a pain to remove when it’s rusted in there for sure. Those actually are really comfortable boots 👍👍... they are Dan Post brand. I’ve worn that brand for most of my life since I started wearing boots as a kid. Dan Post and I must have a very similar foot shape 🤣🤣. All the best !
@@StevesDIYs 😆
@@StevesDIYs Look like they are worth keeping. Don’t know if you’ve heard of Trenton & Heath they have a TH-cam channel where they repair shoes and boots, a lot are sent in the post, they can make anything look brand new! Well worth checking out. Hard to find people who really know how to repair shoes/boots.
@@Sorcli thanks ! Good to know 👍. I usually wear the heels and leather soles out long before the uppers give way. Yep, you are right, hardly anyone repairs shoes anymore...even here in Nashville where lots if people wear expensive cowboy boots.
@@StevesDIYs Ah! They are in Nashville too! Potter and sons is there shop name. You could just pop them in. They take them totally apart and put them back together by hand. Great to watch.
Really helpful thanks spent 4 hours and 8 trying too think what I had missed.
4 trying to get bolt out
Thanks man ! Yep, when they are as rusted in as mine was, there’s no hope but to cut them. If I hadn’t have had them apart before and knew they are supposed to just pull out, I don’t think I would have ever figured out what the problem was since it’s impossible to see inside. Glad the video helped and all the best ! Steve
Thank u very much sir I have just subscribed I have a 94 535 and a 91 535 both being restored soo thanks again.sam
@@Davidthomasv8 thanks man !
Thank you very much for your great help!
👍. Glad the video helped some and all the best ! Steve
hey Steve, I sourced a new bolt and bought all the internal parts from yamaha. Today i assembled the frame including this lower frame and rear swing arm.... I was wondering, what torque spec to tighten the swing arm bolt? im assuming not too tight or it will pinch the swing arm and restrict movement? the bolt head has the metal plate with folding ends to stop it from untightening also. Thanks
Hey man ! Actually, the swing arm pivot bolt gets tightened down pretty tight at about 56 foot pounds from the specs. The way it’s designed, the inner bearing race is just slightly longer than frame width so it all gets tightened down tight so it won’t wear the swing arm bolt holes (the cups on the ends as well as the inner race pivot with the swing arm as it moves. To verify the fit, you can remove the pin that holds the shock and then pivot the swing arm after you torque it down to be sure it’s not binding or anything.
@@StevesDIYs great thanks Steve
Hey Steve, thanks for the very useful video. I was wondering if I’m not going to Powdercoat, can I just leave the bolt and swingarm in tact? What are the negatives from leaving it?
Hey ! Thanks and glad the video helps some with this aggravating issue 👍. If it was me, I would try to remove the swing arm just to see as it would make cleaning for spray paint easier (and also for greasing the bearings), BUT, if when loosening the bolt, if the bolt head did not immediately start backing away from the swing arm and making a gap (where the tab clip sits that the tabs have to be opened up to rotate the bolt) after two or three turns, I would just tighten it back up and leave them together for painting as it will probably end up like the one I had to cut apart. If it is all rusted up, eventually it will wear the bearings out and will need to be replaced, but depending on how much the bikes plans to be ridden, they can last for years until the bearings are so bad that there is side to side movement in the wing arm that can be felt when cornering. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs really great response! Really appreciate the fast response! I’m going to check and see if it is backing off the arm. If not I will just leave it for now unfortunately.. thanks Steve.
@@Caferacertoronto 👍. Hopefully it will back on out for you and you can separate them for the restore 🤞. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Hi Steve. i was able to find a local guy with an unseized bolt, i had to cut mine off. Now, i have an issue with the bearings stuck inside of the frame part. what is the best way to remove these?
@@Caferacertoronto hey again ! To get the two roller bearings out, you’ll have to insert a piece to metal bar into the opposite side and knock them out with a hammer. They are pressed in so they won’t slide around so they have to be forced out. It will ruin them to take them out (but they were probably already bad anyway since the bolt was stuck and you had to cut it out). To put the new ones back in, you just line them back up and then squeeze them back in with a big c-clamp (or carefully thump them back in with a piece of wood or a piece of a kitchen cutting board and a hammer.
Hi Steve. Great video, this saved me a lot of time!
But can you help me with the measurements of that pivot/bolt?
Would you tell me how long it is?
Cheers!
Thanks ! Glad the video helped some with this poorly designed bearing 👍. I actually don’t have any extra bolts right now that I can measure, but I do need to take the bolt off my stock bike as it’s got some play in it…if I take it off this weekend I’ll reply back with the measurements 👍. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs hey Steve, any luck you were able to get the measurements? I’m going through the same thing..
@@Caferacertoronto hey man, sorry it took me a couple of days to reply. Yes, I did take the bolt it just a few weeks ago…it’s a M16-1.5 that is 173mm long (measured from the back of the head to the bolt end). It’s only threaded about 25mm on the end, but since it’s surrounded by the inner race, the threads can probably be a little bit longer and it wouldn’t hurt anything. I’d say the length could be around 175mm, but if it’s too long, it risks getting hit by the drive shaft on the left side where it threads in. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve