That was amazing. First, let me say i was intrigued that you even made this video...not the usual fodder for "learn to play the flute videos". So...years ago I had a Haynes, drawn, custom head joint. A big bright sound. One day someone gave me this old unplayable flute they had lying around that they didnt want. It is a Sealos, hand built, soldered.. I was intrigued by the low serial number, 118, and the fact that it wasn't built in a factory. I think my Haynes was number 37 thousand and something, or was it 137 thousand? I had the Sealos re-padded, started playing it..and wow. WOW! I sold that Haynes and forgot about it...until now. I had never thought about this until I heard you play. Bright vs Dark tone...maybe the flute you choose reflects your spirit...Love my dark Sealos flute!
Great. I can tell from your smile and playing that you are having a higher fun factor with the soldered model. I liked the soldered best. Also the older me LOL!
I'm a former viola player who always teetered between flute and oboe as my second instruments. I have arthritic joints and tendon problems now so I had to give up the viola, but I've returned to the flute after 16 years without one. I tried out a Haynes Galway, a Sankyo 401, and an Altus 1507. My bank account hates me, but I went with the Altus... solid Brittania silver and soldered tone holes. It just blew the other flutes out of the water really. The sound is so rounded and sweet, yet powerful. After a 16 year break, I know I'm not doing it any justice, but I'm working on it! I'm really very very happy with this full-professional model. I'm working on getting my low register nice and full and responsive like yours before I start focusing on the higher end of the instrument! :)
What a great story! It sounds like while expensive you picked the best flute for you. It will give you the sound you are looking for when you are ready for it. Don't worry about not getting the sound it can give you right now just keep working on it and you'll be happy with the results. I definitely agree that you should concentrate on that low register before the high. Little by little work your way up keeping loose and relaxed all the way up.
Wait.... You went to flute instead of Oboe when tendon problems occurred? Dont get me wrong, I'm pro flute and all but Oboe is so much closer to 'Natural' hand positioning than flute is. I wish you all the best and hope to see some videos of you playing and enjoying the flute.
Thanks for these explanations and comparisons of tone holes . I'm still playing my Gemeinhart and Yamaha (beginner) flutes so expect they have "soldered" tone holes , but they sound great to me !
Its hard to tell them appart over youtube possbly a slight darker sound to the last one. I was gong to say the same thing about having the birght one when younger. I wonder if it has anything to do with the hearing changing over time, and going for the darker richer sound as we age? Great video 2x👍
Interesting, maybe! I do know that the "in" sound today is dark and edgy whereas I think the sound most sought after when I was getting a flute was a big bright sound.
Great explanation. Hard to tell via TH-cam, and ultimately, as a non-professional, I also have to evaluate if the incremental improvement is worth the $2500 difference. :P
Make sure you try both types of flutes so you can tell yourself. If it a matter of money you would still be very happy with the drawn tone holes. but if you can spend the extra funds I think soldered is worth it.
Soldered appears to be stronger for the longer run. Maybe in the short run, the drawn holes versus the soldered ones might be about equal, but I think the soldered ones would be the better deal, even if the cost is more at first.
From a structural standpoint, any instrument with “Added” weight such as, solder, tone hole walling, etc. are subject to dampened vibration. Drawn tone holes do not dampen vibration because they are “One” with the original body of the flute. A flute with drawn tone holes will be easier to produce tone with less resistance. A drawn tone hole flute will last longer also because of structural integrity, especially when soft metals such as silver and gold are used. Less material equals more vibration and more vibration equals pure, unencumbered tone production
That all rings true! But what about the deeper tone quality with soldered? Do you think the benefits to tone with soldered outweigh the benefits with drawn?
@@DoctorFlute Touché!!-it’s definitely a double-edged sword. Yes, more weight, darker tone but with more resistance. It comes down to the sound, feel and quality construction. Players should go to Flute Center NY : ) and play and ask questions and have fun with the process. Either way, the budget and the soul will be happy. BTW, I’m a doubler and love my Altus 1207 .925!!! Love your shop!!!
@@DoctorFlute Yes indeed. its more about how the key pops back up when you release it and how it feels when you're pressing it down. The good thing about gold springs is that they hold longer than average springs. You can go up to 5 years without needing the springs re-calibrated. :)
longevity of both aren't the same, it's only risk of de-soldered tonehole... have to see too that the thikness of both aren't same too, the undercut is very bad for the longevity of soldered ... about the perfect close of pads, yes it's on the talent craft that we can account.. not really esle.. thanks
the undercut welds are so thin that they unsolder the fireplace, in fact I know luthiers who use these welds. when choosing a flute with welded chimneys I strongly advise to inspect these thicknesses with the light radar, if the light passes too much then it is not good...
When I do videos for Flute Center of New York then I use flutes that they have sent to me. That's the only reason but the vast majority of videos on my channel (at least 90%) are on my Haynes. I so still love my Haynes!
That was amazing. First, let me say i was intrigued that you even made this video...not the usual fodder for "learn to play the flute videos". So...years ago I had a Haynes, drawn, custom head joint. A big bright sound. One day someone gave me this old unplayable flute they had lying around that they didnt want. It is a Sealos, hand built, soldered.. I was intrigued by the low serial number, 118, and the fact that it wasn't built in a factory. I think my Haynes was number 37 thousand and something, or was it 137 thousand? I had the Sealos re-padded, started playing it..and wow. WOW! I sold that Haynes and forgot about it...until now. I had never thought about this until I heard you play. Bright vs Dark tone...maybe the flute you choose reflects your spirit...Love my dark Sealos flute!
Great story! I’ve never heard of a Sealos flute., very intriguing. I’m so glad you found the perfect instrument and right under your nose!
Great. I can tell from your smile and playing that you are having a higher fun factor with the soldered model.
I liked the soldered best. Also the older me LOL!
Ha, yes it was fun and having never compared those two side by side I could hear a great difference between the two. Soldered for the win.
I'm a former viola player who always teetered between flute and oboe as my second instruments. I have arthritic joints and tendon problems now so I had to give up the viola, but I've returned to the flute after 16 years without one. I tried out a Haynes Galway, a Sankyo 401, and an Altus 1507. My bank account hates me, but I went with the Altus... solid Brittania silver and soldered tone holes. It just blew the other flutes out of the water really. The sound is so rounded and sweet, yet powerful. After a 16 year break, I know I'm not doing it any justice, but I'm working on it! I'm really very very happy with this full-professional model. I'm working on getting my low register nice and full and responsive like yours before I start focusing on the higher end of the instrument! :)
What a great story! It sounds like while expensive you picked the best flute for you. It will give you the sound you are looking for when you are ready for it. Don't worry about not getting the sound it can give you right now just keep working on it and you'll be happy with the results. I definitely agree that you should concentrate on that low register before the high. Little by little work your way up keeping loose and relaxed all the way up.
Wait.... You went to flute instead of Oboe when tendon problems occurred? Dont get me wrong, I'm pro flute and all but Oboe is so much closer to 'Natural' hand positioning than flute is. I wish you all the best and hope to see some videos of you playing and enjoying the flute.
Thanks for these explanations and comparisons of tone holes . I'm still playing my Gemeinhart and Yamaha (beginner) flutes so expect they have "soldered" tone holes , but they sound great to me !
I'm sure your flute is fine. But you will know what to look for when you are ready for your next flute. In the end it is just preference anyway.
I liked the soldered tone hole flute better. There was just so much power and control to get the exact sound you would want. Thank for the video.
Totally agree!
The sharper edge of the soldered tone holes make the keys cover the holes tighter, thus a more sensitive response.
Sounds good
Its hard to tell them appart over youtube possbly a slight darker sound to the last one.
I was gong to say the same thing about having the birght one when younger. I wonder if it has anything to do with the hearing changing over time, and going for the darker richer sound as we age? Great video 2x👍
Interesting, maybe! I do know that the "in" sound today is dark and edgy whereas I think the sound most sought after when I was getting a flute was a big bright sound.
Great explanation. Hard to tell via TH-cam, and ultimately, as a non-professional, I also have to evaluate if the incremental improvement is worth the $2500 difference. :P
Make sure you try both types of flutes so you can tell yourself. If it a matter of money you would still be very happy with the drawn tone holes. but if you can spend the extra funds I think soldered is worth it.
I have a played on a Haynes with Soldered Tone Holes for the last 45 years and I love the sound! It is a little heavier…..
Not too heavy though?
Soldered appears to be stronger for the longer run.
Maybe in the short run, the drawn holes versus the soldered ones might be about equal, but I think the soldered ones would be the better deal, even if the cost is more at first.
Maybe but what do you think about the tone difference?
Are they both same wall thickness?
I can hear a difference between them.
I do believe they are the same thickness. But the soldered and drawn do really make a difference.
I liked better the darker sound od the soldered flute. Also more timbres
I agree!
From a structural standpoint, any instrument with “Added” weight such as, solder, tone hole walling, etc. are subject to dampened vibration. Drawn tone holes do not dampen vibration because they are “One” with the original body of the flute. A flute with drawn tone holes will be easier to produce tone with less resistance. A drawn tone hole flute will last longer also because of structural integrity, especially when soft metals such as silver and gold are used. Less material equals more vibration and more vibration equals pure, unencumbered tone production
That all rings true! But what about the deeper tone quality with soldered? Do you think the benefits to tone with soldered outweigh the benefits with drawn?
@@DoctorFlute Touché!!-it’s definitely a double-edged sword. Yes, more weight, darker tone but with more resistance. It comes down to the sound, feel and quality construction. Players should go to Flute Center NY : ) and play and ask questions and have fun with the process. Either way, the budget and the soul will be happy. BTW, I’m a doubler and love my Altus 1207 .925!!! Love your shop!!!
Thanks True Blue!
Gold springs is not about "Sound'... it is about 'Tactile feedback'.
You mean how the keys feel in your hands?
@@DoctorFlute Yes indeed. its more about how the key pops back up when you release it and how it feels when you're pressing it down. The good thing about gold springs is that they hold longer than average springs. You can go up to 5 years without needing the springs re-calibrated. :)
That sounds like a great improvement!
longevity of both aren't the same, it's only risk of de-soldered tonehole... have to see too that the thikness of both aren't same too, the undercut is very bad for the longevity of soldered ...
about the perfect close of pads, yes it's on the talent craft that we can account.. not really esle.. thanks
yes, it is on the way it was made. Have you heard that the soldered have come un-soldered?
the undercut welds are so thin that they unsolder the fireplace, in fact I know luthiers who use these welds. when choosing a flute with welded chimneys I strongly advise to inspect these thicknesses with the light radar, if the light passes too much then it is not good...
Oh wow! Good advice.
You always play on a different flute instead of your 20 year pro model, why is that Dr.?
When I do videos for Flute Center of New York then I use flutes that they have sent to me. That's the only reason but the vast majority of videos on my channel (at least 90%) are on my Haynes. I so still love my Haynes!