So, a mix of potting mix, aged Manure, compost & top soil. Add liberal amounts of lime, Some oyster shell, organic fertiliser & volcanic rock dust. Don't be afraid to add.. Can top dress later with liquid epsom salt and iron supplements. The exact proportions are more of an art form than a measured recipe! 😅 Thanks for sharing Lou!
Thank you for this video. I live in Northwest Florida, and have recently in the last two years planted 12 different varieties in one of my vegetable garden spaces. I am in pure sand and you have given me a lot to think about. I have successfully vegetable garden for five years in that spot so the soil is built up but I can see that I need to use more lime. 1-23 we just had a record-breaking five day freeze and I did cover all of my things very well, but I’m waiting for them to come out of dormancy to see what survived and what did not.
Great job Sir. I’m have learned a lot from you this past year. It’s amazing how early your climate warms up. I’m near Seattle in 8b and this past week we are just now getting into daytime temps above 70 and nighttime temps above 50. Our season is way too short. I just don’t think we can grow main crop here very well. I have been growing figs for 4 years on a few dozen small trees and have probably only produced as much as one of your small trees. This winter I will be attempting to wrap my trees to help the dieback issue. Thanks again for the advice and for the first hand accounts of how your trees wintered.
Another good informative video Lou. But a word of caution on the manure. I've heard through several sources that (almost all) hay farmers now use a product called Grazon (not sure of spelling) on their hay field to eliminate broadleaf weeds so their grasses will grow better. Well that herbicide passes through the cow/horse/etc., and severely wilts or even kills your plants when you apply the manure to them. Now I have not personally had this experience, but several gardeners on YT say they have. This just for what it's worth to you. Again, thanks for your video. 👍
Thanks for the advise, but the horses where I get my manure from all graze in natural fields and their owner is highly particular about such things. Also, every Herbicide that I am aware of isn't soil activated. That means it kills vegetation on contact, but does not remain active in the soil and quickly breaks down. Additionally, I insist on keeping my well rotted manure for at least a year before using it. If there were any such contaminants in the manure, I believe that my technique would go a long way in decomposing them during the conditioning process. Thanks for watching, regards from, Lou Monti
@@loumonti10 Lou, you are a lucky man these days to find a horse farmer who does not use things like Grazon on the pastures. But the horrible thing about Grazon, which is a fairly new product, is that it stays in the manure and soil for 3 or more years and does not break down for a very long time. But the good news is, you can test any soil or manure that you want to use in your gardens by planting some bean seeds right in the soil or manure. They come up fast. And if the soil or manure is affected by Grazon, the bean will sprout, but it will deform quickly. It cause plants to twist and curl and deform. Some folks are now routinely testing soil and amendments that they purchase from big box stores by planting beans to test the products before they plant in them. Beware everyone. Many people have been affected by this. Some have had to replace all the soil in their raised beds. It can take 3 years for the soil to recover. I used to use manure for my garden a lot, but I don't anymore because everyone around where I live uses Grazon.
This was a very good video Lou, very inspirational. I'm in 7b (Denmark, EU) but our summer is shorter and colder than yours so my figs are struggling a little. We have pony manure and next year I'll try your ground bag method. All the best.
Thank you for the great video. How often do you water your potted figs in a dry periode? Got also RDB in 7a (Germany) in a pot. I also grafted it this year successful on my 20 Year old Nordman. But RDB has no fruits yet. Its the 2nd year for my potted RDB. Maybe next year. I also added Lime Stone and Oister Shell-Thank you for that information
Hi there! I water often, depending on the size of the pot, the tree in it, if it's heavily layden with fruit, and the time of year. I water when ever I determine that they are in need and I always water completely (thoroughly) allowing the water to soak into the core. Then, I wait until each pot needs watering, individually! Sometimes every day near the Solstice and during hot weather, sometimes two days, or three, until I feel that the container has dried out sufficiently to be in need of another watering. Every container and different tree often has a different requirement, too! Thanks for watching! Lou Monti
Hello Lou, Been watching your videos and appreciate your helpful suggestions. I have been experiencing a problem with some potted plants and also new cuttings. If there's a way to send you a picture, perhaps you could offer some suggestions. Thanks, Stan Dudek Jackson, NJ
Hi, Stan! My way is simple and natural and I seek to replicate nature whenever and wherever possible. Although my gardening methods are sometimes quite different than others, my unorthodox approach isn't complicated or complex at all. For what it's worth (I always like to say) I'd like to think that my growing techniques and practices are mostly focused on common sense! I sometimes find that the simplest solutions often solve what I thought were complicated problems. Perhaps if you describe your problem, I, or some of my wise and experienced, figster subscribers, will be able to offer their best advise. Thanks for watching! Regards! Lou Monti
Thanks Lou. My problem is with some, not all, trees in pots. Spring begins with some nice new growth and leaf development. Around mid June the problem begins with yellow spots on 1 or 2 leaves. This yellowing spreads out across the leave and on to other leaves resulting in the leaf becoming limp and dry and eventually falls off. It started last year with some trees and I the basics: consistent watering, periodic fertilizing with MG Bloom Booster, sprayed with a mixture of Neem oil/vegetable oil/ dawn dish detergent, even tried transplanting into fresh soil. No evidence of a fungus or insects. Eventually just gave up and let nature take it's course. It started again this year. Not sure of the variety of fig, but seems to spread across different trees. It's a shame because there are already some figs on these trees. I'm going to transplant 2 of the trees into the ground and see if that helps. I'm also going to isolate the infected pots although I'm not sure it spreads from one to another. Sorry for the lengthy description. Any suggestions you or others can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Lou, I've noticed that most of your fig plants, in your yard, are less than 8 or so. Do you purposely keep them on the small size? For easy picking? Thanks for your videos, lots of info based on experience.
Hi, Nelson! In 7-B, were some of my videos are filmed, I have to cut my trees back, severely, every few years. I have pruning videos on that. I always strive for fruitfulness! In 7-A, I take what fig trees in the ground I can get. Over the many years I've learned what varieties are less subject to the ravages of our very cold Winters. Still, every few years, sometimes more often, a harsh, merciless, brutally cold, Winter, will take the majority down in size with substantial dieback. Never the less, I've struggled and labored, often by wrapping with occasional successes, by careful placement in microclimates, and by sometimes accepting temporary defeat, to maintain my trees. With some trees, starting over from the roots is sometimes my only option, and hoping for two or three moderate Winters in a row, which allow me to regain control over my orchard once more. Thus, it is the way, my way, that I substitute and exchange my sacrifices for my love of figs! Even so, one should be aware that sheer size is not always the best methodology with fruit trees. Quality fruit production is! I have learned to create fruitfulness, where nature has allowed me to. Even with my container fig trees, through my selection of various, special, ingredients, all of which make it possible to grow larger, more productive, trees, with better tasting figs, in significantly smaller pots. Mine has been a labor of love, Nelson. One with both many successes and failures, as well! There are many seasons, here in 7-A, Nelson, when nature will simply have her way. Thanks for watching! Warm regards from, Lou Monti
Hi Lou, i don't think you've ever talked about fertilizing young in ground fig trees? Like the first 0 to 4 years old young in ground fig trees? am i wrong?
Yes, I have a couple of videos on this subject. This is rather a vast subject for texting, so watching the videos is better. Lol! Here's the short of it, in my opinion. It's what you feed them and how you feed them that are the most important factors here. After my in ground trees are well established and are fruiting, I don't fertilize until after the main crop figs have been set. Feeding them too much, too early, can sometimes impede fruiting. After that, I generally have good luck feeding them a balanced diet, but not too much. Thanks for watching! Regards, Lou Monti
So, a mix of potting mix, aged Manure, compost & top soil. Add liberal amounts of lime, Some oyster shell, organic fertiliser & volcanic rock dust. Don't be afraid to add.. Can top dress later with liquid epsom salt and iron supplements. The exact proportions are more of an art form than a measured recipe! 😅 Thanks for sharing Lou!
Great learning information thank you so much for your in depth knowledge will use info in the future GOD bless
Thank you for this video. I live in Northwest Florida, and have recently in the last two years planted 12 different varieties in one of my vegetable garden spaces. I am in pure sand and you have given me a lot to think about. I have successfully vegetable garden for five years in that spot so the soil is built up but I can see that I need to use more lime. 1-23 we just had a record-breaking five day freeze and I did cover all of my things very well, but I’m waiting for them to come out of dormancy to see what survived and what did not.
Great job Sir. I’m have learned a lot from you this past year. It’s amazing how early your climate warms up. I’m near Seattle in 8b and this past week we are just now getting into daytime temps above 70 and nighttime temps above 50. Our season is way too short. I just don’t think we can grow main crop here very well. I have been growing figs for 4 years on a few dozen small trees and have probably only produced as much as one of your small trees. This winter I will be attempting to wrap my trees to help the dieback issue. Thanks again for the advice and for the first hand accounts of how your trees wintered.
Try Ronde De Bordeaux, Improved Celeste, and Desert King!!! I promise you the you won't regret either!!! Warm greetings from, Lou Monti
Another good informative video Lou. But a word of caution on the manure. I've heard through several sources that (almost all) hay farmers now use a product called Grazon (not sure of spelling) on their hay field to eliminate broadleaf weeds so their grasses will grow better. Well that herbicide passes through the cow/horse/etc., and severely wilts or even kills your plants when you apply the manure to them. Now I have not personally had this experience, but several gardeners on YT say they have. This just for what it's worth to you. Again, thanks for your video. 👍
Thanks for the advise, but the horses where I get my manure from all graze in natural fields and their owner is highly particular about such things. Also, every Herbicide that I am aware of isn't soil activated. That means it kills vegetation on contact, but does not remain active in the soil and quickly breaks down. Additionally, I insist on keeping my well rotted manure for at least a year before using it. If there were any such contaminants in the manure, I believe that my technique would go a long way in decomposing them during the conditioning process. Thanks for watching, regards from, Lou Monti
@@loumonti10 Sounds safe enough to me. Just passing on a word of caution Lou. Thanks
@@loumonti10 Lou, you are a lucky man these days to find a horse farmer who does not use things like Grazon on the pastures. But the horrible thing about Grazon, which is a fairly new product, is that it stays in the manure and soil for 3 or more years and does not break down for a very long time. But the good news is, you can test any soil or manure that you want to use in your gardens by planting some bean seeds right in the soil or manure. They come up fast. And if the soil or manure is affected by Grazon, the bean will sprout, but it will deform quickly. It cause plants to twist and curl and deform. Some folks are now routinely testing soil and amendments that they purchase from big box stores by planting beans to test the products before they plant in them. Beware everyone. Many people have been affected by this. Some have had to replace all the soil in their raised beds. It can take 3 years for the soil to recover. I used to use manure for my garden a lot, but I don't anymore because everyone around where I live uses Grazon.
This was a very good video Lou, very inspirational. I'm in 7b (Denmark, EU) but our summer is shorter and colder than yours so my figs are struggling a little. We have pony manure and next year I'll try your ground bag method. All the best.
Thanks for showing your failures as well as your successes. You have greatly inspired me!
Thank you, Daniel! Regards from Lou Monti
Thank you for the great video. How often do you water your potted figs in a dry periode? Got also RDB in 7a (Germany) in a pot. I also grafted it this year successful on my 20 Year old Nordman. But RDB has no fruits yet. Its the 2nd year for my potted RDB. Maybe next year. I also added Lime Stone and Oister Shell-Thank you for that information
Hi there! I water often, depending on the size of the pot, the tree in it, if it's heavily layden with fruit, and the time of year. I water when ever I determine that they are in need and I always water completely (thoroughly) allowing the water to soak into the core. Then, I wait until each pot needs watering, individually! Sometimes every day near the Solstice and during hot weather, sometimes two days, or three, until I feel that the container has dried out sufficiently to be in need of another watering. Every container and different tree often has a different requirement, too! Thanks for watching! Lou Monti
Hello Lou,
Been watching your videos and appreciate your helpful suggestions. I have been experiencing a problem with some potted plants and also new cuttings. If there's a way to send you a picture, perhaps you could offer some suggestions.
Thanks,
Stan Dudek
Jackson, NJ
Hi, Stan! My way is simple and natural and I seek to replicate nature whenever and wherever possible. Although my gardening methods are sometimes quite different than others, my unorthodox approach isn't complicated or complex at all. For what it's worth (I always like to say) I'd like to think that my growing techniques and practices are mostly focused on common sense! I sometimes find that the simplest solutions often solve what I thought were complicated problems. Perhaps if you describe your problem, I, or some of my wise and experienced, figster subscribers, will be able to offer their best advise. Thanks for watching! Regards! Lou Monti
Thanks Lou. My problem is with some, not all, trees in pots. Spring begins with some nice new growth and leaf development. Around mid June the problem begins with yellow spots on 1 or 2 leaves. This yellowing spreads out across the leave and on to other leaves resulting in the leaf becoming limp and dry and eventually falls off. It started last year with some trees and I the basics: consistent watering, periodic fertilizing with MG Bloom Booster, sprayed with a mixture of Neem oil/vegetable oil/ dawn dish detergent, even tried transplanting into fresh soil. No evidence of a fungus or insects. Eventually just gave up and let nature take it's course. It started again this year. Not sure of the variety of fig, but seems to spread across different trees. It's a shame because there are already some figs on these trees. I'm going to transplant 2 of the trees into the ground and see if that helps. I'm also going to isolate the infected pots although I'm not sure it spreads from one to another.
Sorry for the lengthy description. Any suggestions you or others can provide would be greatly appreciated.
The ground soil has micronutrients and rare earth elements that give flavor and complexity to the plant.
Your loving efforts have been beautifully rewarded!..... Abbondanza!!!
Thank you!!! Regards from Lou Monti
Lou, I've noticed that most of your fig plants, in your yard, are less than 8 or so. Do you purposely keep them on the small size? For easy picking? Thanks for your videos, lots of info based on experience.
8 feet.
Hi, Nelson! In 7-B, were some of my videos are filmed, I have to cut my trees back, severely, every few years. I have pruning videos on that. I always strive for fruitfulness! In 7-A, I take what fig trees in the ground I can get. Over the many years I've learned what varieties are less subject to the ravages of our very cold Winters. Still, every few years, sometimes more often, a harsh, merciless, brutally cold, Winter, will take the majority down in size with substantial dieback. Never the less, I've struggled and labored, often by wrapping with occasional successes, by careful placement in microclimates, and by sometimes accepting temporary defeat, to maintain my trees. With some trees, starting over from the roots is sometimes my only option, and hoping for two or three moderate Winters in a row, which allow me to regain control over my orchard once more. Thus, it is the way, my way, that I substitute and exchange my sacrifices for my love of figs! Even so, one should be aware that sheer size is not always the best methodology with fruit trees. Quality fruit production is! I have learned to create fruitfulness, where nature has allowed me to. Even with my container fig trees, through my selection of various, special, ingredients, all of which make it possible to grow larger, more productive, trees, with better tasting figs, in significantly smaller pots. Mine has been a labor of love, Nelson. One with both many successes and failures, as well! There are many seasons, here in 7-A, Nelson, when nature will simply have her way. Thanks for watching! Warm regards from, Lou Monti
Thank you Lou!! ❤️👍
Hi Lou, i don't think you've ever talked about fertilizing young in ground fig trees? Like the first 0 to 4 years old young in ground fig trees? am i wrong?
Yes, I have a couple of videos on this subject. This is rather a vast subject for texting, so watching the videos is better. Lol! Here's the short of it, in my opinion. It's what you feed them and how you feed them that are the most important factors here. After my in ground trees are well established and are fruiting, I don't fertilize until after the main crop figs have been set. Feeding them too much, too early, can sometimes impede fruiting. After that, I generally have good luck feeding them a balanced diet, but not too much. Thanks for watching! Regards, Lou Monti