Check my other videos on chip-budding for more tips about this grafting technique - th-cam.com/video/syOLsbr4wrM/w-d-xo.html ; th-cam.com/video/fvz_7xcWQ3Y/w-d-xo.html Table of Contents: 1. Preparing the scions - 0:40 2. Chip-Bud Grafting Technique 2a. Removing the chip - 1:50 2b. Making the slot to hold the chip - 4:40 2c. Securing the chip with Parafilm or Plastic Strips - 6:30 3. Graft Maintenance and Follow-Up - 7:55 4. Grafting Examples and Results - 10:35
Hi. If you are asking when is the best time to use this technique, its late spring and early summer. I have also used it successfully in the fall. It can be used with dormant scions in early spring but the rootstock should already have the sap flowing.
Does this method work with citrus? This channel is an amazing resource but I notice there is not much information about grafting citrus, is that because these techniques do not work with lemons, limes etc.?
They also work with citrus, if the conditions are right. I have several old trees I need to regraft and I will show most of the same techniques (and a couple of others, like T-budding and patch grafts). Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get the scions I needed in time for this season. Otherwise, I would have made a couple of videos on the subject. I might still do one, if I receive what I need.
The more of your videos I watch the more I am like "dude is a legend." You make everything really clear and show all the little things a noob like me wants to know, and I really appreciate that.
such a great video! I feel like I really learnt how to do this technique by watching this video. I love that you repeat the information visually, and at a good pace. I've never seen anyone present quite like this before but it's interesting to learn this way and easy to take in the information, thank you!
Absolutely love the video, because of the video, I now have Rainier,bing,Karla rose nectarine, late italian prune plum,and black plum cherry all grafted on one with 5/5 grafts turning out THANK YOU my project is slowly working out! next march getting almond and peach varieties 🌿 and some shiro plum 🌿
I love the straightforward, methodical detail of your videos. I'm going to try chip-budding of some of my plums next spring. The trees were planted (2nd year) bare root about 6 months ago. I think I should have lots of spots on the trees where the branch diameters will match nicely with scions.
Good to hear your tune...I Know the pro.!!😅❤ Your tips on grafting give so many options .! Some of my apple grafts are way slow bidding out to grow . I will cut some long scions back to the fattest bud, apply glue to cover the cut and wrap with a bag or plastic wrap with moisture added to soften up the bark and buds.! Watering some of them better at ths far end of the row will help too. Neighboring apple trees are starting to bloom and last frost was this week , so warm and hot days are not quite here yet.!😅😊👍
There are no blooms on the peach trees this year so I will prune them sort and be able to bud better winter hardy peaches for future years, this Summer.!!! THANKS for good ideas and skills.!❤
I can tell you've done this a lot. I've been messing around doing some different grafting practice on some branches here at home, and have already cut myself pretty good twice.
Thanks,for letting us to learn ancient knowledge. I have grown several apple trees from seeds (2'-5 'tall) and preparing to graft in spring. All the best from Vancouver BC.
Very helpful. I've been trying to develop my skills over the past few years. I've had good success rates with some techniques, but I've botched my bud grafting attempts. Looking forward to practicing. (Funnily enough, I think I got that same knife recently, upgrading from my cheap starter.)
great video, one question, can I just use purchased dormant scions to obtain my buds from? If so, what would be the best time to apply them to the host tree, early spring or later in summer?
Sorry for the late reply. You can use purchased dormant scions and graft them using other techniques (like whip and tongue or use them to obtain buds. If you do, be sure to wait until the rootstocks start waking up and the sap is flowing, so the buds won't dry out.
Another great video. Can you get any success using second year branches to accept buds? I notice the lower end of some buds are cut at 45 degrees not square as you suggested. Thanks
Excellent. You are simply the best. But can I ask why you don't use tubular grafting technique in your inventory? We use it almost exclusively on pistachios and the success rate is very high. I have personally tried it on apricots and some other fruits with success. It is simply the easiest method once you get the hang of it. I will appreciate your answer on this. Thanks and we'll done once again.
Can I do chip bud grafting and not remove the original branch as I wish to have several different varieties on the tree and branch? Should I only graft to this seasons growth or can I graft to last years wood? Your presentation was very easy to follow and has great detail. Do you ever wrap loosely with foil to reflect the suns rays and hopefully keep the bud from drying out?
Yes you can. I have done it several times and have some multiple varieties trees obtained with this and other grafting techniques (like Lateral Bark Grafting). Beware that it might require some clever pruning to achieve that goal, otherwise the original variety might take over and dry out the new branch. Last year's wood is also fine. Avoid older wood as the chips might take but not wake up. Regarding the use of foil. I keep young grafted trees in the shade for the first weeks. If that's not possible i will always use foil - check my video on chip-bud grafting older fig trees in full sun (foil is always used in that situation) - th-cam.com/video/fvz_7xcWQ3Y/w-d-xo.html
Nicely done: Few questions: * How late in summer can this be done successfully, relative to first frost? * If working in late summer, such that the bud will remain dormant the rest of the summer, should you postpone top pruning until spring? * By postponing pruning, can you salvage a failed graft and try again the next summer? * Is it reasonable to produce mullti-cultivar trees this way -- grow to height of 3-4 feet then graft 2 or 3 varieties?
You can do it quite late in the summer season. But you must protect the chip well. If the cold hit its before it has a chance to heal properly, it will dry out and the graft will fail. Pruning must maintain some growth above the graft. Nevertheless, if the graft is too low on the branch and the rootstock branch is too vigorous, the graft might stay dormant, even in the next spring. A delicate pruning balance will be required in that situation (check some of other videos that show how I prune, like this one - th-cam.com/video/fvz_7xcWQ3Y/w-d-xo.html - about chip-budding figs (old video, no voice over yet, but very detailed on the subject).
Regarding multiple varieties trees, yes, you can do it. Some examples in pears - th-cam.com/video/L_JI7n6QE7k/w-d-xo.html and in fig trees - th-cam.com/video/h4KLedsCSK4/w-d-xo.html (old videos, no voice over yet, only hardcoded subtitles).
@JSacadura Your videos are excellent! The methods described here, with pearls and pitfalls to guide beginners and experts alike, have worked for me for months now. Just seeing this video is confirmation that I was on the right track. I wonder if I could get some scions from you, you seem to have so many varieties. Most apple growers in my area have only Anna, for example. Thanks.
Thanks. Regarding scions... I am sorry, but sending plant scions abroad requires permits and phytosanitary certificates that i can't get due to overwhelming bureaucracy.
At least a couple of buds (just in case one fails). In young rootstocks its best to leave just one, after they take (to form the main branch) and let the scaffolds grow from that one.
Good day Sir. Thank you for the great video.. Do you recon this Chip-budding technic will work on Macadamia trees? Would really appreciate your feedback.
Thanks, Rose. Regarding a book... The idea was suggested several times by a few friends, but there simply isn't enough time for such a project. Maybe when i retire :-)
Thanks, Inger. That pear is a German heirloom called Sommerblutbirne. I got it out of curiosity and was not expecting much in terms of flavor but this small pear surprised me in that department. It has a coarse flesh (but not excessively) with a sweet and very pleasing taste. Unfortunately, its not a good keeper and in less than 1-2 weeks after picking, it gets mushy inside. A shame, has its very productive - that grafted branch on my 7 variety pear tree, produced more than 60 pears. Much more than we can eat in that time frame. I am leaving some on the branch trying to extend its harvest period (the problem is that the birds also like it) :-)
@@JSacadura That's very informative, thank you so much! :) Sounds like a very good variety definitely worth growing, if I ever get the chance of getting my hands on a scion. If it doesnt keep well, maybe it's good for making jelly or canning in syrup? :) Sorry for the late reply, and thank you again :)
DR SHEKEL MR KIKE you do not need to get early scion and to keep it in the fridge for chip budding ,it done at the same time ,late spring beginning of the summer. But you have to Choose a good time to do it ...best time at the end of the day ,just minutes before sunset .Sincerely yours, Karim from Algeria
When doing a whip/tongue method onto pencil sized rootstocks, after the graft has grown leaves and actively growing, is it best to now trim off all leaves/limbs of any remaining rootstocks so that the scion will now be the main tree forming?
If the slot for a chip bud is too wide & you can only line up one side for cambium contact won't this make for poor future graft strength compared to if both sides of the chip had made good cambium contact? Or will the other side of the chip grow until it eventually somehow fuses with cambium on the rootstock? I'm a little confused. Also, does chip budding work well for persimmon?
Sorry for the late reply. The cambium will continue to grow and there will be no open spaces within the graft, so you don't need to worry about graft strength in the long run.
Can you do a saddle or whip and tongue graft with stone fruit? Would you do it with dormant scion just as the sap is flowing like with an apple? Thanks! Love your videos!
Hi, Dana. Stone fruits can be grafted with saddle or whip and tongue (specially young rootstocks) but the results will be better using bud grafts (like t-budding) so, budding techniques are used more often. Thanks for the comment.
I kinda did this but I used a bigger branch and only tore away the bark leaving the cambium layer so it would fit I can only tell if the grafts I made will bud in the spring
Is it advisable to graft a few times the same rootstock just in case they don't take,at least then the chances are higher. Which ever takes then you cut the others?
It is a good job. I wish you luck. Dear, what is the age of the shrine from which you took the chip that you vaccinated? Was it from the previous year or this year? Thank you very much. I admire your work.
Google translate is changing a few words so I am having a difficult time understanding your question. If you are asking the age of the scions to take dormant chips for grafting, the best option is using chips from branches that are no more than one year old (from the previous year). You can also use non dormant scions and then you collect them from branches of the same year (usually for T-budding grafting technique).
JSacadura Thank you for the response. I am interested in a farm and I am vaccinating trees. I hope that you will put the right time for you. A kind of vaccination at the bottom of the video. Thank you very much.
Thank you for the video! I wonder if you tried to use different fruits to grow on the same tree? If yes, what was the results? One of my friend did it and he got tree with pears and apples. Also he got one apple tree with different sorts on it that blooms and brings fruits whole Summer and Fall time long ( each brunch has its own schedule) Did you get chance to try it?
Hi, Irina. Not only did I try it, but i have done a video on the subject - check the video "Grafting and Pruning Multiple Varieties Fruit Trees, for more variety and a longer harvesting period - th-cam.com/video/L_JI7n6QE7k/w-d-xo.html"
In apple trees, whip and tongue or modified cleft graft will grow quicker. The budding techniques are a bit slower to start growing, particularly since, in most cases, the top of the grafted branch is maintained until the graft takes.
Los injertos de yema en cítricos pueden ser un poco más complicados. Es muy importante evitar la deshidratación, por eso utilizo el Parafilm que permite cubrir la yema por períodos más largos, permitiendo que esta se desarrolle sin problemas (con otras cintas es necesario retirarlas después de 3-4 semanas). También es importante elegir el mejor periodo para a injertar. En mi zona (9a) el mejor período para hacer estos injertos es por Abril/Mayo.
Can I do this onto a mature rootstock (4-5 yrs old)? I have a peach tree that did not survive the winter, but I see now that there is a shoot coming up from the rootstock. I was also going to try this on 2 apple trees that were completely girdled by mice this past winter, but the rootstock is still alive
I’m going go graft nectarine onto my grandmother’s apricot tree (which is very mature and fruits heavily). Issue is, I will have to transport the cut to her house. Would wrapping it in the tape then putting it into an airtight bag be sufficient in order to not expose it to air?
Hi. When grafting in the summer its very important to cut the leaves immediately after removing the branch from the mother tree (so the branch doesn't loose water by evaporation). The buds will stay fresh for grafting for a few hours, provided the branch is not exposed to direct sun or very high temperatures. You can wrap the branches in slightly damp newspaper or wrap them in kitchen film for transport, if you want.
Hola de Argentina: Buenas noches desde este lugar, la pregunta que le hago si este tipo de injerto funcionaria en un limonero, desde ya muy cordial saludo Sr. Sacadura y gracias por su videos.--
Si, también funciona en limonero. Pero, tradicionalmente, en cítricos se utiliza más el injerto de T o de escudete. Es similar, pero protege más la yema de la deshydratación. En este vídeo se ve como hacerlo en higuera (es lo mismo en cítricos) - th-cam.com/video/3ZD2fiGbWzo/w-d-xo.html
Yes, they can. Birds eat some peaches and plums and scatter seeds in the margins of my orchard. I sometimes use those wild plums as rootstocks to graft good eating varieties. The only problem is that they tend to be very vigorous and produce much larger trees than if you use a selected rootstock.
![[ TEASER ] เงาะป่า - วงL.กฮ. | TMG RECORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M4ObdFfcPww/mqdefault.jpg)
Check my other videos on chip-budding for more tips about this grafting technique - th-cam.com/video/syOLsbr4wrM/w-d-xo.html ; th-cam.com/video/fvz_7xcWQ3Y/w-d-xo.html
Table of Contents:
1. Preparing the scions - 0:40
2. Chip-Bud Grafting Technique
2a. Removing the chip - 1:50
2b. Making the slot to hold the chip - 4:40
2c. Securing the chip with Parafilm or Plastic Strips - 6:30
3. Graft Maintenance and Follow-Up - 7:55
4. Grafting Examples and Results - 10:35
Maybe I expressed myself badly. Period of execution. Thank you
Hi. If you are asking when is the best time to use this technique, its late spring and early summer. I have also used it successfully in the fall. It can be used with dormant scions in early spring but the rootstock should already have the sap flowing.
Chip kon si month me lagaye jati h
Does this method work with citrus?
This channel is an amazing resource but I notice there is not much information about grafting citrus, is that because these techniques do not work with lemons, limes etc.?
They also work with citrus, if the conditions are right. I have several old trees I need to regraft and I will show most of the same techniques (and a couple of others, like T-budding and patch grafts). Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get the scions I needed in time for this season. Otherwise, I would have made a couple of videos on the subject. I might still do one, if I receive what I need.
The more of your videos I watch the more I am like "dude is a legend."
You make everything really clear and show all the little things a noob like me wants to know, and I really appreciate that.
Glad you like them! Thanks for the nice comment and the support.
After watching your videos earlier this year I have successfully grafted an heirloom apple scion to my Semi-Dwart Fugi. Thanks!
Wonderful! I'm very pleased my videos helped. Thanks for the comment.
such a great video! I feel like I really learnt how to do this technique by watching this video. I love that you repeat the information visually, and at a good pace. I've never seen anyone present quite like this before but it's interesting to learn this way and easy to take in the information, thank you!
I'm glad you enjoyed the video, Sarah. Thanks for the nice comment.
Absolutely love the video, because of the video, I now have Rainier,bing,Karla rose nectarine, late italian prune plum,and black plum cherry all grafted on one with 5/5 grafts turning out THANK YOU my project is slowly working out! next march getting almond and peach varieties 🌿 and some shiro plum 🌿
I love the straightforward, methodical detail of your videos. I'm going to try chip-budding of some of my plums next spring. The trees were planted (2nd year) bare root about 6 months ago. I think I should have lots of spots on the trees where the branch diameters will match nicely with scions.
Good to hear your tune...I Know the pro.!!😅❤ Your tips on grafting give so many options .! Some of my apple grafts are way slow bidding out to grow . I will cut some long scions back to the fattest bud, apply glue to cover the cut and wrap with a bag or plastic wrap with moisture added to soften up the bark and buds.! Watering some of them better at ths far end of the row will help too. Neighboring apple trees are starting to bloom and last frost was this week , so warm and hot days are not quite here yet.!😅😊👍
This is the most chill 15 minutes ever. 🙌👌🏻🌱
Love your grafting videos. You make me want to grafting every day!
That's great! Beware, grafting is addictive 😉
Vidéo très claire et très complète, merci beaucoup !
very good way to paste the buds. very useful. greetings Indonesian farmers🇲🇨✅
There are no blooms on the peach trees this year so I will prune them sort and be able to bud better winter hardy peaches for future years, this Summer.!!! THANKS for good ideas and skills.!❤
I can tell you've done this a lot. I've been messing around doing some different grafting practice on some branches here at home, and have already cut myself pretty good twice.
Thanks,for letting us to learn ancient knowledge. I have grown several apple trees from seeds (2'-5 'tall) and preparing to graft in spring.
All the best from Vancouver BC.
I'm more amazed at the perfect matching length he cuts for the grafts. I'll probably be using a measuring tool like a fool.
Fantastc job. You made it easy by showing that technic in detail. Many Thanks.
That's called chef budding , grafting nice. ❤️❤️❤️
It was very cute way of ending the video by eating the pear through the branch. Cheers
Excelente tutorial, felicitaciones maestro, gracias por compartir.
Thank you so match for your very interesting videos. One question : Can we graft 2 or 3 species on the same rootstock ? And how about their success ?
Thanks for posting this. Very well photographed
Great video, with tons of practical info and results, you are the best on TH-cam.
Lo intentaré con cítricos, mangos y aguacate
Gracias x mostrarlo, saludos desde MEXIKO
Quero aprender mais sobre poda e manejo de maciera seus videos como já disse são maravilhosos!
Estupendo el video. Lo compartire con mis hermanos. Somos muy huertanos.
Gracias por compartir tu talento , me gustó mucho tu explicación. Dios te bendiga.
Hello to France. Super vidéo très pédagogique. Merci.
Very helpful. I've been trying to develop my skills over the past few years. I've had good success rates with some techniques, but I've botched my bud grafting attempts. Looking forward to practicing.
(Funnily enough, I think I got that same knife recently, upgrading from my cheap starter.)
Which knife is it? Interested in purchasing one for myself to up my game. :)
@@Nidrahil I recommend the Victorinox 3.9020 knife
Great, I'm gonna use this on al my failed spring grafts :-)
great video, one question, can I just use purchased dormant scions to obtain my buds from? If so, what would be the best time to apply them to the host tree, early spring or later in summer?
Sorry for the late reply. You can use purchased dormant scions and graft them using other techniques (like whip and tongue or use them to obtain buds. If you do, be sure to wait until the rootstocks start waking up and the sap is flowing, so the buds won't dry out.
Great work sir
Thank you
Que excelência para trabalhar. 👋👋👋👋👋 Parabéns.
thanks,...very nice! most helpful, well done!
excellent video it looks that easy but it is not infact let s try it another time
Nice and useful clip !❤
Excellent informative video.
Great Video!
Thank you for the great information...
Very informative loud and clear. Good work. You may like to add your verbal explanation but never hide the screen plz.
I love your work!
Happy New Year🥂
Thanks. Happy New Year.
És um excelente professor de enxertias. Seus vídeos são muito bons!
Obrigado, Bia.
Another great video.
Can you get any success using second year branches to accept buds?
I notice the lower end of some buds are cut at 45 degrees not square as you suggested. Thanks
Thanks for sharing
Thank you!
Very good, very good, 🍺🍺🍺🍺Guadalajara Mexico
Maravilhosos os seus videos obrigado
good video i have learned alot. i am interest in doing this grafting method
A true master…..when you bud graft do you have to cut or make a cut above graft
Excellent. You are simply the best. But can I ask why you don't use tubular grafting technique in your inventory? We use it almost exclusively on pistachios and the success rate is very high. I have personally tried it on apricots and some other fruits with success. It is simply the easiest method once you get the hang of it. I will appreciate your answer on this. Thanks and we'll done once again.
very nice video.
Beautifully presented tutorial, thanks for sharing.
Great job
Thank you.
Thanks for you
Time to frankenstein my apple tree
period thanks
Can I do chip bud grafting and not remove the original branch as I wish to have several different varieties on the tree and branch? Should I only graft to this seasons growth or can I graft to last years wood? Your presentation was very easy to follow and has great detail. Do you ever wrap loosely with foil to reflect the suns rays and hopefully keep the bud from drying out?
Yes you can. I have done it several times and have some multiple varieties trees obtained with this and other grafting techniques (like Lateral Bark Grafting). Beware that it might require some clever pruning to achieve that goal, otherwise the original variety might take over and dry out the new branch. Last year's wood is also fine. Avoid older wood as the chips might take but not wake up.
Regarding the use of foil. I keep young grafted trees in the shade for the first weeks. If that's not possible i will always use foil - check my video on chip-bud grafting older fig trees in full sun (foil is always used in that situation) - th-cam.com/video/fvz_7xcWQ3Y/w-d-xo.html
@@JSacadura THANKS for your response - great info. I appreciate it.
Nicely done:
Few questions:
* How late in summer can this be done successfully, relative to first frost?
* If working in late summer, such that the bud will remain dormant the rest of the summer, should you postpone top pruning until spring?
* By postponing pruning, can you salvage a failed graft and try again the next summer?
* Is it reasonable to produce mullti-cultivar trees this way -- grow to height of 3-4 feet then graft 2 or 3 varieties?
You can do it quite late in the summer season. But you must protect the chip well. If the cold hit its before it has a chance to heal properly, it will dry out and the graft will fail.
Pruning must maintain some growth above the graft. Nevertheless, if the graft is too low on the branch and the rootstock branch is too vigorous, the graft might stay dormant, even in the next spring. A delicate pruning balance will be required in that situation (check some of other videos that show how I prune, like this one - th-cam.com/video/fvz_7xcWQ3Y/w-d-xo.html - about chip-budding figs (old video, no voice over yet, but very detailed on the subject).
Regarding multiple varieties trees, yes, you can do it. Some examples in pears - th-cam.com/video/L_JI7n6QE7k/w-d-xo.html and in fig trees - th-cam.com/video/h4KLedsCSK4/w-d-xo.html (old videos, no voice over yet, only hardcoded subtitles).
thank you
Very. Good. Video.. hi. FIRENDS.
I got a lot of information, thanks.
@JSacadura Your videos are excellent! The methods described here, with pearls and pitfalls to guide beginners and experts alike, have worked for me for months now. Just seeing this video is confirmation that I was on the right track.
I wonder if I could get some scions from you, you seem to have so many varieties. Most apple growers in my area have only Anna, for example.
Thanks.
Thanks. Regarding scions... I am sorry, but sending plant scions abroad requires permits and phytosanitary certificates that i can't get due to overwhelming bureaucracy.
@@JSacadura Understood... I'll just keep searching. Thanks.
Thanks
merci super super
Maravilloso gracias maestro por su sabiduría bendiciones
How many buds would you do on a young rootstock? Would more bud grafts increase your chances or will it divide the energy of the plant? Obrigado
At least a couple of buds (just in case one fails). In young rootstocks its best to leave just one, after they take (to form the main branch) and let the scaffolds grow from that one.
Good day Sir.
Thank you for the great video..
Do you recon this Chip-budding technic will work on Macadamia trees? Would really appreciate your feedback.
You probably will have better results grafting macadamia seedlings with whip and tongue grafting technique.
Such great info! Have you considered writing a book?
Thanks, Rose. Regarding a book... The idea was suggested several times by a few friends, but there simply isn't enough time for such a project. Maybe when i retire :-)
much appreciated amazing work done ..
For good results need to use current seasons growth for scion and root stock. Limits its usefulness
Fantastic video - as always. :) what is that beautiful red fleshed pear at the end?
Thanks, Inger. That pear is a German heirloom called Sommerblutbirne. I got it out of curiosity and was not expecting much in terms of flavor but this small pear surprised me in that department. It has a coarse flesh (but not excessively) with a sweet and very pleasing taste. Unfortunately, its not a good keeper and in less than 1-2 weeks after picking, it gets mushy inside. A shame, has its very productive - that grafted branch on my 7 variety pear tree, produced more than 60 pears. Much more than we can eat in that time frame. I am leaving some on the branch trying to extend its harvest period (the problem is that the birds also like it) :-)
@@JSacadura That's very informative, thank you so much! :) Sounds like a very good variety definitely worth growing, if I ever get the chance of getting my hands on a scion. If it doesnt keep well, maybe it's good for making jelly or canning in syrup? :) Sorry for the late reply, and thank you again :)
DR SHEKEL MR KIKE you do not need to get early scion and to keep it in the fridge for chip budding ,it done at the same time ,late spring beginning of the summer. But you have to Choose a good time to do it ...best time at the end of the day ,just minutes before sunset .Sincerely yours, Karim from Algeria
Hi I'm from jakarta indonesia. Can i grafting grape to lemon ?
Unfortunately, they are not compatible. So, no.
Intentaré esa técnica en aguacate y guanábana
Super🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Hola,, el injerto en chip se puede realizar ahora en Febrero en pistacho. Gracias.
wonderful
Thanks.
When doing a whip/tongue method onto pencil sized rootstocks, after the graft has grown leaves and actively growing, is it best to now trim off all leaves/limbs of any remaining rootstocks so that the scion will now be the main tree forming?
If the slot for a chip bud is too wide & you can only line up one side for cambium contact won't this make for poor future graft strength compared to if both sides of the chip had made good cambium contact? Or will the other side of the chip grow until it eventually somehow fuses with cambium on the rootstock? I'm a little confused. Also, does chip budding work well for persimmon?
Sorry for the late reply. The cambium will continue to grow and there will be no open spaces within the graft, so you don't need to worry about graft strength in the long run.
Nice
Bravo
At what distance do you plant peaches and plums?
Can you do a saddle or whip and tongue graft with stone fruit?
Would you do it with dormant scion just as the sap is flowing like with an apple?
Thanks! Love your videos!
Hi, Dana. Stone fruits can be grafted with saddle or whip and tongue (specially young rootstocks) but the results will be better using bud grafts (like t-budding) so, budding techniques are used more often. Thanks for the comment.
Bonne vidéo bien claire
I kinda did this but I used a bigger branch and only tore away the bark leaving the cambium layer so it would fit I can only tell if the grafts I made will bud in the spring
Is it advisable to graft a few times
the same rootstock just in case they don't take,at least then the chances are higher. Which ever takes then you cut the others?
Can I use this type of grafting on bigger branches, say in the 5-10cm diameter range? Or is it limited to thin brances?
It is a good job. I wish you luck. Dear, what is the age of the shrine from which you took the chip that you vaccinated? Was it from the previous year or this year? Thank you very much. I admire your work.
Google translate is changing a few words so I am having a difficult time understanding your question. If you are asking the age of the scions to take dormant chips for grafting, the best option is using chips from branches that are no more than one year old (from the previous year). You can also use non dormant scions and then you collect them from branches of the same year (usually for T-budding grafting technique).
JSacadura Thank you for the response. I am interested in a farm and I am vaccinating trees. I hope that you will put the right time for you. A kind of vaccination at the bottom of the video. Thank you very much.
Thank you for the video! I wonder if you tried to use different fruits to grow on the same tree? If yes, what was the results? One of my friend did it and he got tree with pears and apples. Also he got one apple tree with different sorts on it that blooms and brings fruits whole Summer and Fall time long ( each brunch has its own schedule) Did you get chance to try it?
Hi, Irina. Not only did I try it, but i have done a video on the subject - check the video "Grafting and Pruning Multiple Varieties Fruit Trees, for more variety and a longer harvesting period - th-cam.com/video/L_JI7n6QE7k/w-d-xo.html"
Hello sir ..Kindly tell me the chip bud or T bud grows quickly in apple plants
In apple trees, whip and tongue or modified cleft graft will grow quicker. The budding techniques are a bit slower to start growing, particularly since, in most cases, the top of the grafted branch is maintained until the graft takes.
Can grafting be done mid summer? Seems like it would be hard to find a dormant bud right now.
Hi, do you discard the chip's inner cut hardwood portion if it separates from the bark? Thank you
Wish I could find that sort of parafilm. Do you notice it sticks without stretching
Hola enhorabuena muy didácticos tus vídeos,a mi me fallan el 50% de los injrtos de yema en cítricos será por tapar la yema?
injertos quise decir
Los injertos de yema en cítricos pueden ser un poco más complicados. Es muy importante evitar la deshidratación, por eso utilizo el Parafilm que permite cubrir la yema por períodos más largos, permitiendo que esta se desarrolle sin problemas (con otras cintas es necesario retirarlas después de 3-4 semanas). También es importante elegir el mejor periodo para a injertar. En mi zona (9a) el mejor período para hacer estos injertos es por Abril/Mayo.
Funcionará esta técnica con mangos y aguacates ?
Gracias !
Saludos
Podrá funcionar, pero los injertos de púa, de corona, o a inglés son los más utilizados en esos frutales, Jose.
@@JSacadura ok, lo tendré en cuenta
Can I do this onto a mature rootstock (4-5 yrs old)? I have a peach tree that did not survive the winter, but I see now that there is a shoot coming up from the rootstock. I was also going to try this on 2 apple trees that were completely girdled by mice this past winter, but the rootstock is still alive
Paix soit sur vous. Quel est le bon moment pour l'opération ?
I’m going go graft nectarine onto my grandmother’s apricot tree (which is very mature and fruits heavily).
Issue is, I will have to transport the cut to her house. Would wrapping it in the tape then putting it into an airtight bag be sufficient in order to not expose it to air?
Hi. When grafting in the summer its very important to cut the leaves immediately after removing the branch from the mother tree (so the branch doesn't loose water by evaporation). The buds will stay fresh for grafting for a few hours, provided the branch is not exposed to direct sun or very high temperatures. You can wrap the branches in slightly damp newspaper or wrap them in kitchen film for transport, if you want.
Hola de Argentina: Buenas noches desde este lugar, la pregunta que le hago si este tipo de injerto funcionaria en un limonero, desde ya muy cordial saludo Sr. Sacadura y gracias por su videos.--
Si, también funciona en limonero. Pero, tradicionalmente, en cítricos se utiliza más el injerto de T o de escudete. Es similar, pero protege más la yema de la deshydratación. En este vídeo se ve como hacerlo en higuera (es lo mismo en cítricos) - th-cam.com/video/3ZD2fiGbWzo/w-d-xo.html
Wow your doing great. I just wonder if peach or plum can be grafted in my wild plum tree.
Yes, they can. Birds eat some peaches and plums and scatter seeds in the margins of my orchard. I sometimes use those wild plums as rootstocks to graft good eating varieties. The only problem is that they tend to be very vigorous and produce much larger trees than if you use a selected rootstock.