I had a 12V battery discharge on my Kona EV, a regular boost was all I needed but I have a physical key. There needs to be mechanical key to get into the car and hood so it's not just going to rely on the 12V battery working in order to even access the 12V battery.
@@darekmistrz4364 Yes, after calling (and waiting for) someone with a higher power 12V (semi-)portable source and waiting in the cold for a while until the car decided to wake up and open. With physical access (like in the Kona), you open the door and then the bonnet, pull out the 12V battery, charge it inside and put it back in. Some things should remain the same and not be "innovated".
@@AndrewTSq That's BS. Sure it's not optimal. But does your phone die when it's fully discharged? These are Lithium LV batteries, not lead acid batteries.
4:00 these type of chargers will not start unless it sees at least some voltage. And these wires are not connected to battery, they are connected to frunk unlock mechanism. In Victron chargers you can set it to "PowerSupply" mode and it will not try to detect battery. It also has a profile for Lithium batteries so no need to disconnect LV battery. I highly recommend that.
@@havarm That's true, especially that there is nothing amazing inside of it. Components inside are not worth more than 25 euro. But I suspect if Bjorn wants to have something good (like with Ecoflow) then buying Victron is the way to go here.
The best part is the not existing one, isn’t it? You easily can get rid of a mechanical lock by replacing it with an AI-based cloud operated door unhinging system. It even allows a subscription service for car entrance 😂
@@fromgermany271 Not to worry. The 2025 Plaid will come with Elons robot companion so that it can open the door for you. Assuming of course, its battery doesn't go flat. I guess you would be in serious trouble then..
Unless you buy a Tycan (or Tesla apparently) and lock yourself in in the middle of scorching summer or freezing your nut sack off in dead ass winter. Sounds so much fun
Extreme cold does weird stuff to electronics. I run a 2018 RAM 2500 diesel - motor starts without issue at -40, as long as the block heater and battery warmer have been plugged in. The radio, however, refuses to work until the interior heats up to just above freezing point.
It's just a bad chip in your radio. It's -400° in space and all those thousands of satellites work just fine. I had a power amp once that quit working and took it to the repair shop. Couldn't find a problem. Took it home. Still didn't work. The shop was hot and they used freezing spray to test cold yet still worked there. Finally they figured out a chip would fail at 75-80° range -- room temp.
I guess the DC power from this simple rectivier charger is not stable enough to supply the cars system sufficiently. I personally would not dare to use such a device to „ jumpstart“ a modern electric car.
@@bass9901 our MG ZS has an hidden key inside the remote, that was a handy feature when we were out of power on the 12 volt battery. But not all cars now a days can be opened that way 🫣
My IONIQ5 was DED this winter (third winter for it) at ~ -17 degrees. Very similar symptoms. Only two differences were: 1. LV battery is a conventional 12V lead battery; 2. It got towed to a service center where they replaced 12V battery - said it wasn't drawing any current from the charging circuit. All this high-end technology is good until it gets over-complicated and, as with Boeing in recent years, your planes begin to crash.
My 2007 Cummins 5.9l diesel starts every time when plugged in even below -40C, will go 900 kms on a tank of fuel, refuels in minutes ready for another 900 kms. Even when the battery has gone dead in extreme cold I can open the door with a key, open the hood and boost the batteries. This is insanity.
My Nana was from interior Bergen. They raised goats amongst other farming activities. If the beast wouldn't go, they ate it over the course of a week or so. At least they were fed. What we have here is a giant goat that you can't eat.
That Tesla woulda cost me money, not selling my 2002 fully manual car, with key, stick shift. Just did whole clutch system at 207k MILES/22 years old. $975USD parts and labor. My parts/their labor.
FYI, avoid leaving the external charge connector connected to the car, but with the EVSE not powered. The charge port ECU is looking for the pilot because it sees the prox, and this will keep the system awake, which draws more power from the LV system. Yes, if it's super cold the LV battery will not be able to charge, so in that case I'd recommend leaving sentry mode on, which will keep the car awake and the DC-DC converter in the PCS will keep the LV battery supported until the temperature comes up and then it will begin charging the LV battery. Personally I think Tesla screwed up on using this tiny LV battery. (I have several videos on my channel about this)
This highlights the problem of electronic-everything, solving problems that don't really need to be solved. I am glad if my ICE vehicle's battery dies completely, I can still insert a key in the door, turn it open the door and pop the hood to get the battery charged or swapped out or get it jumped... I will always have access to the vehicle's interior and engine bay with my mechanical lock and key if my fob dies. They really really really ought to include mechanical failsafes in these cars.
What difference does it make to get in the car if it's not working? They open the hood and access the battery with the same 12V source they needed to charge/wake the car up so the end result is the same.
@@Kowalski301 Well, maybe you left your house keys in there, and it's -30c with a -40c windchill or some super important documents, or a booster pack in the trunk. Or maybe your kid is in there, and you inadvertently closed the door and can't get it open again. Lots of really good reasons to have a mechanical lock.... So yes the end result is the same. but look at all the farting around he had to do...and look how long it took! I could have been in my car in literally seconds, got the battery boosted within a minute (with my pack in the trunk) after and driven away a minute after that.
@@sneezyferret6482 exactly. I have lithium battery booster in my glovebox. THat I can get to because I have a key. I haven't need it for my own car but if I ever did I wouldn't need anyone to come boost me. When it is -40 it can be life and death if you get locked out of your vehicle. Inside my vehicle I have blankets, chemical warmers, lights to warn drivers in the dark that I am broke down. All my safety kit is IN THE CAR. Not being able to access your safety kit is a safety issue. Period. Not an issue when I am in the city but when I am servicing well sites in the field or working in rural locations in the winter waiting for a boost to open my car is damn stupid.
The charger you are using may have had an automatic that detected that it was not a normal 12 volt lead acid battery, and therefore refused to charge the battery
Bjorn probably needs a big 15V power supply instead of a *charger* which is going to try and do charger things, like detect what sort of battery it's connected to.
A charger generally can’t do a lot of current. The booster here can deliver a lot of current for extended time. A normal lead acid 12v battery is what you would use to connect to those leads. Theoretically the eco flow direct 12v would’ve worked.
1 good thing about a stick shift car: push it, release clutch and it will usually start with a dead battery. most older cars will even run with no battery, just the alternator powering it
I have exactly the same fault on my '14 S85 ! I had a new 12v battery 5 months ago but car shows identical symptoms as that Plaid. Its in a service centre to be fixed today. I will report back Bjorn.
12v batteries do not do well in the cold especially if not isolated. A battery blanket can help but I remember living in Massachusetts my 12v battery would not do well especially if they are low capacity.
@@mikapeltokorpi7671That's what I was thinking. The 12 V lead acid can charge well below freezing. The li-ion must be above freezing to charge. Even if it had a heater, it's responsible for closing the HV contacts so ... rock meet hard place.
@@iamalmostanonymous Since 2016, the low voltage system is directly energized by the main battery through a separate low voltage circuit that bypasses the contactors. Assuming that circuit is working properly, you can actually remove the 12 volt battery and drive the car. The 12 volt battery is just there as a backup in case the main pack truly dies. Prior to that, the 12 volt battery was needed to close the contactors in order to power the dc-dc converter for the low voltage system so if your 12v battery died, you'd need to jump it. What's going on with this Plaid is completely different than what would have happened with a 2014 even with the same symptoms.
My Plaid died during an update last week in my warm garage. We just plugged in some 12v and it came back to life, the LV battery soc was low and started charging immediately. I suspect the 16v have some issues either software or hardware related. Fortunately it's quite an easy fix and it gets charge from the HV battery.
The mosfet in the LV Battery open (to protect the battery from deep discharging) when the voltage is to low and the mosfet only close again when you unplug it and wait some time to reset the LV Battery. There is a nice video about this topic from Weber Autos Teslas 16-V-Li-Ion-Akku
Hello Bjorn, As I understand low voltage Lithium-ion batteries will not charge at below -15 celcius because of the BMS, but they can discharge at limited power. So if the battery discharges when very cold, it will not recharge until it is warmed ?? Cordialement,
@@iamalmostanonymous There was a video on weber autos on this topic. If the 16V battery disconnects itself because it's depleted, you have to unplug it, wait a few minutes and plug it back in. It then allows itself to start charging again. Just heating it won't help.
you have dead cells, happens in regular car batteries too. We call it a dead battery. No biggie, ~$100 for an ICE battery, ~$20,000 for Plaid battery. Low maintenance costs and all that.
The main battery is completely isolated when the car is off, so before then if the 12v battery is knackered from being so cold, so is everything running off that battery just like in a ICE car. even when the contactors are connected (assuming they are also not frozen solid and the 12 has enough juice left to connect them) the whole system is still 12v and relying on a battery charger far less able than a ICE alternator.
The only time an EV would be practical is if the temp outside never gets below 70° or above 90°, you never haul or pull a trailer, and never go over 100 miles.... and you have money to waste on an expensive gadget that depreciates rather rapidly.
@@alexanderhummel3917You obviously didn't pay attention. The HOURS spent warming it up the first time just to get it 'alive'. Then hours trying to get the hood open to attempt to jump the 12v battery that died. In a ICE vehicle you pop the hood, jump it and you're on your way... in minutes.
@@alexanderhummel3917 I have been in that situation. And in EVERY situation, a simple pair of booster cables and another car with a running engine was the best option going to get it to start. I grew up north of 60...this isn't my first rodeo...and the bullshit these guys had to go through JUST to get the car to respond...THAT is what I am on about. Of course, I could go on about my environmental opinion of this absurd idea, but that isn't what the video is about...which is that EVs suck in temperatures in the minus 40s or colder. This just reinforces why I will not ever buy one.
You need pure 12-14 volt DC voltage for the jump to work right. Go get the cigarette adapter jumper cable for your ECOFLOW to jump the Lithium Ion battery.
@@gogianyee5002 No, ICE cars don't have to be kept warm. While it is true that an old 12v battery will have issues starting when it's VERY cold, a recent one won't, and your cold ICE car will start, and once started, its range will barely be affected by the cold. I live in Québec, Canada. I know a thing or two about bitter cold. Block heaters exist, but they do not warm the battery nor the oil. Stop spewing bullshit.
The 16 volt battery charges differently when the car is awake. When it's awake and the contactors are closed, it's using different circuits in the dc/dc converter. When the car is asleep and the contactors are open, there's a different circuit in the dc/dc converter that feeds directly from the battery. This is probably defective. Older packs used to close the contactors every 4 to 6 hours to top off the 12 volt battery, but they changed it back in something like 2016 to run the low voltage system directly off the main pack without closing the contactors. So don't be surprised if the 16 volt battery discharges again after the car goes to sleep.
@@sorka95032 Good for you. Many people like EVs. Many people don't. My gripe is the governments forcing them upon us. Let the market decide. If people want their cars to die in the cold, fine. I don't.
@@hugolafhugolaf ICE cars are twice as likely to die in the cold than EVs. Norway's roadside assistance company Viking did a study. It's not the first study to point to this fact. Look for the article titled "NEW STUDY FINDS THAT EVS ARE FAR LESS LIKELY TO ENCOUNTER ONE MAJOR PROBLEM COMPARED TO GAS-POWERED CARS: ‘I’LL NEVER GO BACK’ It's attitudes like this that are based on ignorance resulting in consumers being unable to make informed decisions that lead to government mandated rules.
Bjorn you can open the frunk with a 9v source such as those tiny batteries you have in fire alarms. I would recommend buying a Noco portable battery booster for when you go low as it will open the frunk and should get the car turned on. I have the GBX45 and it’s amazing, the noco ones have a override mode you hold for 3 seconds and then it will supply raw 12v, very useful for using an air compressor / tyre inflator away from the car (for example pumping up a trailer tyre)
3:42 The Charger need to detect a "battery" to produce power, when you connect to the two wire , it goes to the open the front trunk, and then you can access the "small battery" in the front trunk, thats why when you connect your small battery charger to the two wire, there is 0V, there for the charger won't produce any power to open the trunk
@@10mbc boosters don't always work when the battery is completely dead. Things like reverse polarity protection and spark protection need to detect some voltage to operate. Some have an override to apply power without these protections.
@@drfisheye You obviously get one that has the option to boost a completely dead battery, it's really not rocket science. Get the Audew, it works pretty well. He is so unprepared that is not even funny. You have the Ecoflow power station, how come you don't have the 12v leads? And he is at home, it's not like he just forgot some cables.
I got an equivalent Audew lithium charger, it works wonders on all cars. Used it once on our MG ZS EV, the rest of the time to help others stranded, it's really fun to find the small charger, because people looks weird on you, cause they don't think it works, but they even work on big V8's If you ever gonna need it. 😂
@@phillipbanes5484 Well, you are not wrong but he keeps that giant power bank in the car (the Ecoflow) so the additional risk is basically zero. If you really are concerned about this you can still have an AGM booster pack of you can use a battery charger that has a boost function, there are so many solutions that being unprepared is not an option. Most likely (I am not sure of this, of course) even the charger he had available could be able to charge a dead battery by a key combination (maybe long press for 10 seconds or something) but you need to read the manual on that. Just don't forget that, if you have a mild hybrid or a lot of hybrid cars, you have li-ion inside your car already.
Noco manual says it's only for lead acid batteries. I think the Model 3 uses a lithium ion 12v battery. You'll also need the override function, which is a bit dangerous, according to the manual.
The charger they used to wake up the car is also only intended for lead-acid batteries. And after getting the doors open, they disconnected the 16 volt li-ion battery from the car's system on video as well, before proceeding further.
After living in Fairbanks Alaska for 30 years, we had battery blanket, circulating heater and oil pan heaters on our ICE cars. I think a Tesla would be good in the cold with one or two of those installed. Just keep the battery blanket plugged in and then the car plugged in too.
All EV have battery heater. It just wont work if its discharged to zero. So safety systems working to save battery from charging at low temp. Its physics from high school. EVs are fine at cold regions. For battery its better than how weather. Blogger just did everything to break the car for headline.
I read that the 16V battey has a fault protection and it cuts off power to protect the battey , so after you unplug it like you did then you give 12V to car , then remove 12V and put back 16V which will then force charge on it again since the small battery will have opened its internal circut.
11:30 That Biltema charger has analog current meter so you should check what's happening. If the car is toggling power on and off, the current meter should show current going on/off.
If I understand your chronology, The hv battery was to low to be used to close the contractors per software. The 16v has a heater integrated and it discharged and with out the hv online it could not heat and so it was stuck discharged and thus the control loop died. The 2% hv went to 0 just due to temp drop.
I think the LV closes the contactors. He said the HV was at 90% when he cut power. I didn't know about the integrated heater and was wondering how Tesla charged the LV li-ion below freezing. Another poster stated his Plaid did this in a warm garage after a software update so ...
A lithium jump starter with a boost feature (like the Yaber Auto 6000A), would probably work for this. The boost puts 15 volts on the jumper leads, even if a battery isn't connected.
Yea, that's the wrong charger to use. That will charge lead acid batteries, not lithium. You need a 12.6v 3s lithium charger. Unless its 4s in which case a 16.8v 4s lithium charger
you are probably right about the Biltema yellow charger, but Sondre from Bilkomponenter said this fired up his Plaid after 30-40 seconds. Many of these old chargers like the one used here outputs around 15-16 Volts when the load is low, but as the Plaid tried to power up, we heared the clicking sound and the Current meter on the charger jumped around. It could be that the connection between the car and the charger was not good the first time they tried to fire up the Plaid with the lithium battery disconnected, I do think the best is to use a 4 cell LIPO battery 4* 4 volts for the jump start procedure and leave the Plaid lithium battery connected. This could bring the Plaid lithium battery out of protect mode and take charge, may be ! The remaing question is still why the Plaid lithium battery went so low ? Is this battery degraded due to the car has been sitting outside in the cold to long? Then it could be that the internal heat element caused the discharge. Anyhow I think this needs more debugging. as there is more question than answers here. Perhaps first do a capacity test of the Plaid lithium battery . If capacity is close to 6 to 7 AH, then work from there, if capasity is low, replace the battery as the first step.
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I guess wont be enough. 4S for regular Li-Ion cells. 5S for LiFePo4 cells.
This is just an emergency bypass to power the trunk release. Most likely there is never any voltage on those wires because there's a diode there somewhere, so it does not matter if they are shorted or not.
@@vprwave A motor or relay has a coil that needs to be charged/energized, if the connection is not fast and precise, the coil can kick a little and make sparks.
At 6:00 on your video: My Hyundai 38.3 Ioniq got a new BMS when they changed the main battery due to fire hazards. Since then it actually wakes up when needed to charge the battery. I have seen as often as once every hour in the could while running a dashcam. Eventually it will wake up less often like once every 6 hours ore even once every day (like it was before) when parked in a heated garage. After 1 week when the Bluelink had disconnected itself to save power it still kept on charging the 12 V battery when needed (kind of weird behavior). All checked with the BM2 12 V battery monitor.
My Plaid has often gone down to -25C overnight and no problems starting next day. Appears it needs to be standing in the cold weather for several days before this issue happens or if it's unique to this car and it's flooding history....
The two naked cables beneath each other for jump start are a very crappy dangerous design. And before the low voltage was going dead, a automatic charging should have been implemented by Tesla. Because there is no e-power in a car full of e-power? Thats a joke! Aditionally, the low batterie possibly sucks itself to death by heating itself, those batterie are not suitable for cold environments.
If car is not plugged in, high voltage battery contactors are open (so DC-DC converter is not working). So 16v battery is alone keeping car online. Makes perfect sense. So you should keep in pluddeg in all the time ;). Meaby that flooding make more offline current. Normaly 16v battery of course should be car online at least some time. But extreme cold colder that -20 will lover 16v or 12v battery capasity. And if there is more than usual current when car is sleeping you will have more issues. Might be very difficult to diagnose hidden power draw, same thing with gas or diesel car.
That bilcomponenter plaid has not been in a flood. Meaby this one has damage to 16v battery and it has lower capasity. Or more likely there is hidden draw from 16v when car is sleeping. Valdemar can easily put ampere measure device to those 16v battery wires and see how much is current draw when car is sleeping. This measuring easy and fast but if there is hidden power draw, finding that might be very difficult. General rule of thumb is to see what has been changed recently, and check those thing first. Have had exaple many cases when someone installs new radio and it has too big internal power draw, draining the battery overnight, or if someone has added some other devices to 12v outlet that is constantly on, like minifridge in the trunk.
@@bjornnyland Did you ask if the Bilkomponente car had Sentry mode on? Even if it was NOT plugged in during the cold nights? Possibly that is one of the differences since Sentry uses quite a bit of juice while being on for the recording cameras. Maybe it also checks and keeps the LV battery topped up from time to time.
8:40 I learned from Andrew Camarata, that you can roughly tell the current flow by the size of the spark. So if it sparks good when "jumping" the LV battery, it means its charging.
he really doesnt have the thinking processes to operate even a simple two wires and light bulb tester he has no understanding of battery charging etc and if the + was disconnected on the battery he was charging then its highly likly other systems were off, what stupid design I never want one even if I was given one
@@fecorekasiA car that won't go is a nightmare. Especially since you can't even get in! Wait until you scrub a curb and the insurance company writes it off because the batteries will cost more than the car is worth. Or the fact that you will have to replace tires twice as much because the batteries alone weight almost as much as a small car themselves. You have been brainwashed.
13:30 The boost is probably powerful enough but that kind of booster is designed to be connected in parallel with lead battery, not used as a direct power source.
FYI, VW ID cars with software 3.2+ will also periodically recharge the 12V battery, if enabled in the VW app. Maybe more legacy automakers have also implemented this by now?
It is so fun to own an EV in the cold of Norwegian winters..... This is not something the average owner of an EV is able to try to do at all. He/she will need to call a car rescue company and then wait in cue for it to have time to get to you and help you. And the reality many places in Norway during this cold period, was that some people had to wait for more than 24 hours before they could get help. In Denmark, some needed to wait for more than 48 hours before they got any help. And this was mainly because so extremely many electric cars had problems. Making this a much bigger problem than it was when EVs were not that common. I find it hilarious that it becomes a problem at minus 15-16 Celsius. That is not an uncommon temperature during winters in Norway and often it becomes much colder than that in many places in Norway. My diesel had no problems to start in minus 30, even if it had not been driven for more than a week. The EVs clearly need to be improved a lot more to be reliable in countries/areas it is cold in the winters. I am for sure not buying one for at least 5 years and most likely I will need to wait 10 years before the EVs are good enough for me to consider buying one.
The service mode look pretty cool. Are you able to read and clear faults too? I think this should be a standard feature on every modern car. I retrofittet such a system into my 20 years old car (directly into the instrument cluster) and as it is that old, from time to time there is something wrong, so it is very useful to be able check and clear faults and see live data without the need of an extra device.
The small USB boosters have a mode to forcibly push power even when no voltage is detected, so they can charge a completely dead system... and a fraction of the size of those units you used to recover. E.g. The NOCO Boost Sport GB20
I had th same problem just connect the booster or the auxiliary battery to the to the plate covered with red rubber with positive, and the negative connect to the chassis. When the computer wakes up start immediately with charging. When it starts charging you can remove the auxiliary battery. If some system do not work properly reinstall the OS from the service menu, usualy problems could be, with headlights and wireless charging. DO NOT DISCONNECT ANYTHING :)
Your power supply is putting put pulsed DC (not pure DC) so that would really screw up the electronics. You'd be far better advised to simply get a decent portable battery for this sort of thing.
The lesson here appears to be "don't rely on everything being electrically powered". Very good while there is power, not so good when there isn't. Teslas are too high tech for me... I have an Enyaq which has backup manual door locks and a manual boot release.
Jeez, you should never connect the positive wire last when charge/boosting a battery, especially when it is connected to the car... you can fry the computers with the sparks.
Forget Tesla. My 10 year old Nissan Leaf lead acid battery is the original one and has NEVER gone flat. The more complex you make a car the less reliable it becomes and that doesn't matter if it's and EV or not. It's a matter of record that the Leaf is the most reliable EV
My 5.5 year old 2018 Leaf 12v battery died a couple of weeks ago. Was just after a cold spell with car parked outside. Is the only ‘repair’ I’ve had to do, so not complaining.
16:20 I wonder if it's an issue of LV battery cannot be charged when it's -10 and it doesn't have heating like HV battery. So basically car waits for LV battery temperature to be more than -10 until it chargers it, but battery dies first and HV contactors close and car is brick. Maybe LV battery has a heater but not big enough? Or maybe it's too big and caused voltage drop at 19% to be so big that LV battery contactor opened to prevent damage?
Car could engage contactors first, enable DC-DC and set it to output current LV battery voltage and then engage LV heater. When LV heats up sufficiently - increase DC-DC output voltage according to LV battery charging profile.
You mentioned the well known Hyundai/Kia 12V dead (D.E.D.) battery issues but I wonder if they've sorted this with the latest SW update. I've got a battery monitor on my Ioniq 5 that reports that the 12V battery is charged twice a day if the car is left standing. Doesn't this show that the car is awake and monitoring the 12V battery charge and isn't twice a day often enough to keep the battery SOC at a reasonable level? Maybe it's an issue with the quality of standard Hyundai/Kia 12V batteries? I've come across comments that the Ioniq won't charge the 12V battery if the traction battery is below 17.5% SOC, so I make sure that I never leave my car standing with less than 20% SOC. I've had no issues in the two (winter) months I've owned my car. (Let's hope that I haven't cursed myself with this post! 😉)
I would recommend a lab-bench power supply. There you can adjust the voltage- and a current- limit. Therer are lot of good supplies available with up to 20A output for little money.
CTEK is outdated. I recommend Victron Energy chargers, they are not much more expensive than CTEK and the features are from different world. Similar like Tesla vs petrol cars.
Yeah, the same thing happens to my gas car, the extreme cold kills the battery, SO, when the weather is going to be really cold I put a battery minder on it & I plug in the engine heater. Just using your head you can avoid these weather related misfortunes. !
@@lbtobl83 oh god. What are u doing in such a situations? Dont charge? Wait till its dry? Did u had a short circuit or is it just refusing to charge if you plug it in?
alot of those fancy electronic 12v chargers, wont start charging unless they 'see' some kinda voltage coming from the battery 1st. so if you had a completely dead battery, or one below the cutoff voltage, it wont kick in and start charging. what u can do is get an actual extra small car battery, or lawn mower battery, and use that, or get a older / more basic charger that will always give 12-14 volts regardless of battery volt. or an older more basic jump pack, ( not the li-ion small ones, but the older lead acid battery kind with a manual switch you can activate).
Should be wrapped in Lemon not Lime.
That's an idea i like 😂😂
Poop-Brown would also be appropriate.
Yellow is a ugly car color
@@BigBlackGuyjoke went way over your head lol
@@leehall5447 haha I see 😆
I had a 12V battery discharge on my Kona EV, a regular boost was all I needed but I have a physical key. There needs to be mechanical key to get into the car and hood so it's not just going to rely on the 12V battery working in order to even access the 12V battery.
Usually when a battery have uncharged twice its more or less dead so just replace it if it happens.
But they did get into frunk with 12V battery not working, so I don't understand why the need for physical key?
@@darekmistrz4364 Yes, after calling (and waiting for) someone with a higher power 12V (semi-)portable source and waiting in the cold for a while until the car decided to wake up and open.
With physical access (like in the Kona), you open the door and then the bonnet, pull out the 12V battery, charge it inside and put it back in.
Some things should remain the same and not be "innovated".
@@AndrewTSq That's BS. Sure it's not optimal. But does your phone die when it's fully discharged? These are Lithium LV batteries, not lead acid batteries.
@@LAndrewsChannel So the process you describe requires exactly the same tools but additionally physical key compared to Tesla process at the moment
4:00 these type of chargers will not start unless it sees at least some voltage. And these wires are not connected to battery, they are connected to frunk unlock mechanism. In Victron chargers you can set it to "PowerSupply" mode and it will not try to detect battery. It also has a profile for Lithium batteries so no need to disconnect LV battery. I highly recommend that.
Victron is good shit, but probably 10-15 times the price of Bjørns one
@@havarm That's true, especially that there is nothing amazing inside of it. Components inside are not worth more than 25 euro. But I suspect if Bjorn wants to have something good (like with Ecoflow) then buying Victron is the way to go here.
Because having a physical key like them legacy automakers would just be too much oldschool...
The best part is the not existing one, isn’t it?
You easily can get rid of a mechanical lock by replacing it with an AI-based cloud operated door unhinging system. It even allows a subscription service for car entrance 😂
@@fromgermany271 Not to worry. The 2025 Plaid will come with Elons robot companion so that it can open the door for you.
Assuming of course, its battery doesn't go flat. I guess you would be in serious trouble then..
Unless you buy a Tycan (or Tesla apparently) and lock yourself in in the middle of scorching summer or freezing your nut sack off in dead ass winter. Sounds so much fun
And then you sit in your legacy car and still cannot start because you still need the booster to make it work again.
@@TschingisTube But your @$$ won't get eaten by the Wolfes ... 😂
Extreme cold does weird stuff to electronics. I run a 2018 RAM 2500 diesel - motor starts without issue at -40, as long as the block heater and battery warmer have been plugged in. The radio, however, refuses to work until the interior heats up to just above freezing point.
It's just a bad chip in your radio. It's -400° in space and all those thousands of satellites work just fine.
I had a power amp once that quit working and took it to the repair shop. Couldn't find a problem. Took it home. Still didn't work. The shop was hot and they used freezing spray to test cold yet still worked there. Finally they figured out a chip would fail at 75-80° range -- room temp.
@@joetolopino7126 Good point - thanks.
Приус заведется без всяких подогревов в - 40° C
Now you appreciate the manual hood opening :)
i can not open the door so...
I guess the DC power from this simple rectivier charger is not stable enough to supply the cars system sufficiently. I personally would not dare to use such a device to „ jumpstart“ a modern electric car.
@@bass9901 well, with 99,9% of cars you have a key with which you can always open the car ;)
yea the new cars are such a circus....
they can open with apps, cards, and other gimmicks but not with a fu*** key?
jesus christ.....
@@bass9901 our MG ZS has an hidden key inside the remote, that was a handy feature when we were out of power on the 12 volt battery.
But not all cars now a days can be opened that way 🫣
My IONIQ5 was DED this winter (third winter for it) at ~ -17 degrees. Very similar symptoms. Only two differences were: 1. LV battery is a conventional 12V lead battery; 2. It got towed to a service center where they replaced 12V battery - said it wasn't drawing any current from the charging circuit.
All this high-end technology is good until it gets over-complicated and, as with Boeing in recent years, your planes begin to crash.
DED is an old joke :)
Ioniq 5 doesnt charge the 12 V battery from the high voltage system with SOC < 20%.
@@Sweetw4ter That's irrelevant. HV battery was at ~80% at that moment.
@@Sederiq I understand that, i was generally saying that since it is somewhat related to the topic of the video.
Are you on about the Boeing accidents? They had nothing to do with the technology getting complicated, it was pure incompetence at best.
My 2007 Cummins 5.9l diesel starts every time when plugged in even below -40C, will go 900 kms on a tank of fuel, refuels in minutes ready for another 900 kms. Even when the battery has gone dead in extreme cold I can open the door with a key, open the hood and boost the batteries. This is insanity.
My Nana was from interior Bergen. They raised goats amongst other farming activities. If the beast wouldn't go, they ate it over the course of a week or so. At least they were fed. What we have here is a giant goat that you can't eat.
😂
That Tesla woulda cost me money, not selling my 2002 fully manual car, with key, stick shift. Just did whole clutch system at 207k MILES/22 years old. $975USD parts and labor. My parts/their labor.
FYI, avoid leaving the external charge connector connected to the car, but with the EVSE not powered. The charge port ECU is looking for the pilot because it sees the prox, and this will keep the system awake, which draws more power from the LV system. Yes, if it's super cold the LV battery will not be able to charge, so in that case I'd recommend leaving sentry mode on, which will keep the car awake and the DC-DC converter in the PCS will keep the LV battery supported until the temperature comes up and then it will begin charging the LV battery. Personally I think Tesla screwed up on using this tiny LV battery. (I have several videos on my channel about this)
Makes me glad to have a v8 that even with a weak battery in extreme cold can be jump started in about 15 seconds.
god bless the V8
My Subaru has never had an issue starting in the past 10 years.
This seems like a pain in the ass.
Tesla forgot the universal “KISS” principle.
No, they took it to the extreme. To the point where they sacrificed not only practicality and usability, but even safety, on the altar of making bank.
This highlights the problem of electronic-everything, solving problems that don't really need to be solved. I am glad if my ICE vehicle's battery dies completely, I can still insert a key in the door, turn it open the door and pop the hood to get the battery charged or swapped out or get it jumped... I will always have access to the vehicle's interior and engine bay with my mechanical lock and key if my fob dies. They really really really ought to include mechanical failsafes in these cars.
What difference does it make to get in the car if it's not working? They open the hood and access the battery with the same 12V source they needed to charge/wake the car up so the end result is the same.
@@Kowalski301 Well, maybe you left your house keys in there, and it's -30c with a -40c windchill or some super important documents, or a booster pack in the trunk. Or maybe your kid is in there, and you inadvertently closed the door and can't get it open again. Lots of really good reasons to have a mechanical lock....
So yes the end result is the same. but look at all the farting around he had to do...and look how long it took! I could have been in my car in literally seconds, got the battery boosted within a minute (with my pack in the trunk) after and driven away a minute after that.
@@sneezyferret6482 exactly. I have lithium battery booster in my glovebox. THat I can get to because I have a key. I haven't need it for my own car but if I ever did I wouldn't need anyone to come boost me. When it is -40 it can be life and death if you get locked out of your vehicle. Inside my vehicle I have blankets, chemical warmers, lights to warn drivers in the dark that I am broke down. All my safety kit is IN THE CAR. Not being able to access your safety kit is a safety issue. Period. Not an issue when I am in the city but when I am servicing well sites in the field or working in rural locations in the winter waiting for a boost to open my car is damn stupid.
No matter how freezing it got, I NEVER had this headache when I owned gas-powered cars…
The charger you are using may have had an automatic that detected that it was not a normal 12 volt lead acid battery,
and therefore refused to charge the battery
Bjorn probably needs a big 15V power supply instead of a *charger* which is going to try and do charger things, like detect what sort of battery it's connected to.
Yeah, my Noco has a "13.6V supply" mode.
A charger generally can’t do a lot of current. The booster here can deliver a lot of current for extended time. A normal lead acid 12v battery is what you would use to connect to those leads.
Theoretically the eco flow direct 12v would’ve worked.
@@ericnewton5720How much current can you get from the 12 V port?
LiPo batteries do not fare well in cold weather. By disconnecting the car to prevent those charging cycles, the LiPo battery basically drained itself.
1 good thing about a stick shift car: push it, release clutch and it will usually start with a dead battery. most older cars will even run with no battery, just the alternator powering it
I have exactly the same fault on my '14 S85 ! I had a new 12v battery 5 months ago but car shows identical symptoms as that Plaid. Its in a service centre to be fixed today. I will report back Bjorn.
12v batteries do not do well in the cold especially if not isolated. A battery blanket can help but I remember living in Massachusetts my 12v battery would not do well especially if they are low capacity.
Lithium ion batteries operate much worse than lead acid batteries in the low temps.
@@mikapeltokorpi7671That's what I was thinking. The 12 V lead acid can charge well below freezing. The li-ion must be above freezing to charge. Even if it had a heater, it's responsible for closing the HV contacts so ... rock meet hard place.
@@iamalmostanonymous Since 2016, the low voltage system is directly energized by the main battery through a separate low voltage circuit that bypasses the contactors. Assuming that circuit is working properly, you can actually remove the 12 volt battery and drive the car. The 12 volt battery is just there as a backup in case the main pack truly dies. Prior to that, the 12 volt battery was needed to close the contactors in order to power the dc-dc converter for the low voltage system so if your 12v battery died, you'd need to jump it. What's going on with this Plaid is completely different than what would have happened with a 2014 even with the same symptoms.
@@mikapeltokorpi7671 No they don't.
My Plaid died during an update last week in my warm garage. We just plugged in some 12v and it came back to life, the LV battery soc was low and started charging immediately. I suspect the 16v have some issues either software or hardware related. Fortunately it's quite an easy fix and it gets charge from the HV battery.
A good clue on what might be happening !
Curious how you fed 12V?
@@iamalmostanonymous from another car battery
@@harmhoeks5996 well mine was in the middle of an update, so I guess that doesn't work during updates
@@walbergrobin why is the LV dying so fast? how long did the update last?
The mosfet in the LV Battery open (to protect the battery from deep discharging) when the voltage is to low and the mosfet only close again when you unplug it and wait some time to reset the LV Battery. There is a nice video about this topic from Weber Autos Teslas 16-V-Li-Ion-Akku
th-cam.com/video/8-MNFgashpQ/w-d-xo.html
*too
Had to scroll way too much to find this comment. It was clear as day that the LV went into safe mode
Underrated comment. Boost
Up!
My wife’s Ioniq had a similar issue. Her version of car has an independent 12v and it isn’t tied into the main battery
Hello Bjorn,
As I understand low voltage Lithium-ion batteries will not charge at below -15 celcius because of the BMS, but they can discharge at limited power. So if the battery discharges when very cold, it will not recharge until it is warmed ??
Cordialement,
Might be really cool to blow hot air over the LV battery for a while and see if it comes to life? It should recover voltage as it warms.
@@iamalmostanonymous There was a video on weber autos on this topic. If the 16V battery disconnects itself because it's depleted, you have to unplug it, wait a few minutes and plug it back in. It then allows itself to start charging again. Just heating it won't help.
@@iamalmostanonymous A very good experiment!
As I understand, these electric cars are basically useless and burst into flames randomly.
@@vernevens1598 so exactly like any ice wanne be SUV/Crossover? :D
you have dead cells, happens in regular car batteries too. We call it a dead battery. No biggie, ~$100 for an ICE battery, ~$20,000 for Plaid battery. Low maintenance costs and all that.
Man, what a hassle to drive an EV over there.
Not just there, many places!
You shouldn't have added the last two words.
The main battery is completely isolated when the car is off, so before then if the 12v battery is knackered from being so cold, so is everything running off that battery just like in a ICE car. even when the contactors are connected (assuming they are also not frozen solid and the 12 has enough juice left to connect them) the whole system is still 12v and relying on a battery charger far less able than a ICE alternator.
Thanks for proving to me that I will never go EV.
The only time an EV would be practical is if the temp outside never gets below 70° or above 90°, you never haul or pull a trailer, and never go over 100 miles.... and you have money to waste on an expensive gadget that depreciates rather rapidly.
you pbviously never had a dead battery in a modern combustion car. its the exact same pain.
@@alexanderhummel3917but 1000 times cheaper and faster to replaceXD
@@alexanderhummel3917You obviously didn't pay attention. The HOURS spent warming it up the first time just to get it 'alive'. Then hours trying to get the hood open to attempt to jump the 12v battery that died. In a ICE vehicle you pop the hood, jump it and you're on your way... in minutes.
@@alexanderhummel3917
I have been in that situation. And in EVERY situation, a simple pair of booster cables and another car with a running engine was the best option going to get it to start.
I grew up north of 60...this isn't my first rodeo...and the bullshit these guys had to go through JUST to get the car to respond...THAT is what I am on about.
Of course, I could go on about my environmental opinion of this absurd idea, but that isn't what the video is about...which is that EVs suck in temperatures in the minus 40s or colder. This just reinforces why I will not ever buy one.
$ 90,000 could have bought this guy a very nice, reliable & efficient comb engine..
"Teslas are very advanced cars." Yeah I could tell when you were pushing it into the garage.
You need pure 12-14 volt DC voltage for the jump to work right. Go get the cigarette adapter jumper cable for your ECOFLOW to jump the Lithium Ion battery.
You need an ICE car and be done with those issues. Oh, but EVs are SO convenient right?
@@hugolafhugolafICE cars have to be kept warm too to keep both the 12 volt battery & engine oil from freezing. Cold is COLD for any vehicle.
@@gogianyee5002 No, ICE cars don't have to be kept warm. While it is true that an old 12v battery will have issues starting when it's VERY cold, a recent one won't, and your cold ICE car will start, and once started, its range will barely be affected by the cold. I live in Québec, Canada. I know a thing or two about bitter cold. Block heaters exist, but they do not warm the battery nor the oil. Stop spewing bullshit.
@@hugolafhugolafI never mentioned a block heater or that it would keep both battery and the engine block warm. You did. Have a nice day.
@@gogianyee5002 You mentioned keeping the battery and the oil warm, something for which a device doesn’t exist, at least that I know of.
The 16 volt battery charges differently when the car is awake. When it's awake and the contactors are closed, it's using different circuits in the dc/dc converter. When the car is asleep and the contactors are open, there's a different circuit in the dc/dc converter that feeds directly from the battery. This is probably defective. Older packs used to close the contactors every 4 to 6 hours to top off the 12 volt battery, but they changed it back in something like 2016 to run the low voltage system directly off the main pack without closing the contactors. So don't be surprised if the 16 volt battery discharges again after the car goes to sleep.
How about having a normal car? None of those issues.
@@hugolafhugolaf Had normal cars for years with MANY more issues than I ever had with EVs. Will never go back to ICE.
@@sorka95032 Good for you. Many people like EVs. Many people don't. My gripe is the governments forcing them upon us. Let the market decide. If people want their cars to die in the cold, fine. I don't.
@@hugolafhugolaf ICE cars are twice as likely to die in the cold than EVs. Norway's roadside assistance company Viking did a study. It's not the first study to point to this fact. Look for the article titled "NEW STUDY FINDS THAT EVS ARE FAR LESS LIKELY TO ENCOUNTER ONE MAJOR PROBLEM COMPARED TO GAS-POWERED CARS: ‘I’LL NEVER GO BACK’
It's attitudes like this that are based on ignorance resulting in consumers being unable to make informed decisions that lead to government mandated rules.
@@sorka95032 Governments are mandating EVs because some folks' ICE cars die on the side of the road due to the cold? I
Bjorn you can open the frunk with a 9v source such as those tiny batteries you have in fire alarms.
I would recommend buying a Noco portable battery booster for when you go low as it will open the frunk and should get the car turned on. I have the GBX45 and it’s amazing, the noco ones have a override mode you hold for 3 seconds and then it will supply raw 12v, very useful for using an air compressor / tyre inflator away from the car (for example pumping up a trailer tyre)
Good idea, he can keep the booster in the trunk..... Oh, wait a minute, that's not going to help.... 🙂
3:42 The Charger need to detect a "battery" to produce power, when you connect to the two wire , it goes to the open the front trunk, and then you can access the "small battery" in the front trunk, thats why when you connect your small battery charger to the two wire, there is 0V, there for the charger won't produce any power to open the trunk
A small lithium booster can work great in this case and the rest of the time can be used as a powerbank
No need for big charger, this was overkill. The booster will tipically provide 15v anyways.
@@10mbc boosters don't always work when the battery is completely dead. Things like reverse polarity protection and spark protection need to detect some voltage to operate. Some have an override to apply power without these protections.
@@drfisheye You obviously get one that has the option to boost a completely dead battery, it's really not rocket science. Get the Audew, it works pretty well. He is so unprepared that is not even funny. You have the Ecoflow power station, how come you don't have the 12v leads? And he is at home, it's not like he just forgot some cables.
I got an equivalent Audew lithium charger, it works wonders on all cars. Used it once on our MG ZS EV, the rest of the time to help others stranded, it's really fun to find the small charger, because people looks weird on you, cause they don't think it works, but they even work on big V8's If you ever gonna need it. 😂
@@phillipbanes5484 Well, you are not wrong but he keeps that giant power bank in the car (the Ecoflow) so the additional risk is basically zero. If you really are concerned about this you can still have an AGM booster pack of you can use a battery charger that has a boost function, there are so many solutions that being unprepared is not an option. Most likely (I am not sure of this, of course) even the charger he had available could be able to charge a dead battery by a key combination (maybe long press for 10 seconds or something) but you need to read the manual on that.
Just don't forget that, if you have a mild hybrid or a lot of hybrid cars, you have li-ion inside your car already.
Why on earth do these things need electrical door locks, boot locks and all that crappy electronic stuff that breaks down when you really need it..?
It‘s dead. D E D ! 😁
So nobody know it's an old joke???
DRT dead right there!
Dead is deAd not ded. So that's why it's not working. A huge spelling mistake by Tesla.
Their moto should be "Taking Technology too far".
Oh well… you can expect “the SUN” to catch some images of this video, right? 🤣😂
imagine if they put solar panels on the car to recharge the battery's🤣🤣🤣
This car starting looks pretty hard. Never EV looks better.
Voltage of the lithium cell is too low. Its marked as red as well in service mode.
If Bjorn say DED, it IS DED!
Would a noco startbooster help in that situation?
They are small and light, and work at least with standard car batteries.
Yes, that one would help... But it does switch off after a few minutes.... But it should be enough to trigger it on
Noco manual says it's only for lead acid batteries. I think the Model 3 uses a lithium ion 12v battery. You'll also need the override function, which is a bit dangerous, according to the manual.
The charger they used to wake up the car is also only intended for lead-acid batteries. And after getting the doors open, they disconnected the 16 volt li-ion battery from the car's system on video as well, before proceeding further.
@@teamterska9985 Yes, not all chargers will charge all battery types. The cheap ones mostly do LA exclusively.
After living in Fairbanks Alaska for 30 years, we had battery blanket, circulating heater and oil pan heaters on our ICE cars. I think a Tesla would be good in the cold with one or two of those installed. Just keep the battery blanket plugged in and then the car plugged in too.
All EV have battery heater. It just wont work if its discharged to zero. So safety systems working to save battery from charging at low temp. Its physics from high school. EVs are fine at cold regions. For battery its better than how weather. Blogger just did everything to break the car for headline.
Obey "Bjorns Law" - ABC = Always Be Charging even if 80% charged
EV's prefer to Always Be Connected to a charger even when charging is "finished".
@@FrygiskDepends on the EV. It will say in the owner’s manual.
Exactly...To maintain cell voltage balancing, maintain charge on the low voltage battery, and, maintain battery temperature!
Coffee is for Chargers ONLY!
I don't have to fill up my car when it's ¾ full.
I read that the 16V battey has a fault protection and it cuts off power to protect the battey , so after you unplug it like you did then you give 12V to car , then remove 12V and put back 16V which will then force charge on it again since the small battery will have opened its internal circut.
How do I get to the Tesla Page that shows the LV battery charge state? New Model X can not find that page that Bjorn was looking at. Thanks
11:30 That Biltema charger has analog current meter so you should check what's happening. If the car is toggling power on and off, the current meter should show current going on/off.
If I understand your chronology, The hv battery was to low to be used to close the contractors per software. The 16v has a heater integrated and it discharged and with out the hv online it could not heat and so it was stuck discharged and thus the control loop died. The 2% hv went to 0 just due to temp drop.
I think the LV closes the contactors. He said the HV was at 90% when he cut power. I didn't know about the integrated heater and was wondering how Tesla charged the LV li-ion below freezing. Another poster stated his Plaid did this in a warm garage after a software update so ...
Sometimes the futuristic solutions are years behind old proven solutions.
I have a booster like that! Probably even older.
Ancient technology for the win!
do not stick your fingers in the 12 volt port like Bjorn is kids you could get a shock he's a trained professional🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
A lithium jump starter with a boost feature (like the Yaber Auto 6000A), would probably work for this. The boost puts 15 volts on the jumper leads, even if a battery isn't connected.
Yea, that's the wrong charger to use. That will charge lead acid batteries, not lithium.
You need a 12.6v 3s lithium charger.
Unless its 4s in which case a 16.8v 4s lithium charger
you are probably right about the Biltema yellow charger, but Sondre from Bilkomponenter said this fired up his Plaid after 30-40 seconds. Many of these old chargers like the one used here outputs around 15-16 Volts when the load is low, but as the Plaid tried to power up, we heared the
clicking sound and the Current meter
on the charger jumped around. It could be that the connection between
the car and the charger was not good the first time they tried to fire up the Plaid with the lithium battery disconnected,
I do think the best is to use a 4 cell LIPO battery 4* 4 volts for the jump start procedure and leave the Plaid lithium battery connected. This could bring the Plaid lithium battery out of
protect mode and take charge, may be !
The remaing question is still why the Plaid lithium battery went so low ? Is this battery degraded due to the car has been sitting outside in the cold to long? Then it could be that the internal heat element caused the discharge.
Anyhow I think this needs more debugging. as there is more question
than answers here. Perhaps first do a capacity test of the Plaid lithium battery . If capacity is close to 6 to 7
AH, then work from there, if capasity is low, replace the battery as the first step.
I guess wont be enough. 4S for regular Li-Ion cells. 5S for LiFePo4 cells.
I remember starting my manual by pushing it down a slope and releasing the clutch xD
3:11 it looks like shorted...why are plus and minus wires connected ?
These are not live wires. They are input wires, not output.
@@bjornnylandOk, thank you for the explanation.
Given there was a spark the first time he connected the booster, I'd call it live wires.
This is just an emergency bypass to power the trunk release. Most likely there is never any voltage on those wires because there's a diode there somewhere, so it does not matter if they are shorted or not.
@@vprwave A motor or relay has a coil that needs to be charged/energized, if the connection is not fast and precise, the coil can kick a little and make sparks.
My ICE car starts fine in -30'C weather (Not even plugged in).
Definitely take it to Valdemar! We need a deep dive series from Elbilmek!
the 12 volt dc to dc fails the 12 volt batterys still toast🤣🤣🤣
At 6:00 on your video: My Hyundai 38.3 Ioniq got a new BMS when they changed the main battery due to fire hazards. Since then it actually wakes up when needed to charge the battery. I have seen as often as once every hour in the could while running a dashcam. Eventually it will wake up less often like once every 6 hours ore even once every day (like it was before) when parked in a heated garage. After 1 week when the Bluelink had disconnected itself to save power it still kept on charging the 12 V battery when needed (kind of weird behavior). All checked with the BM2 12 V battery monitor.
My Plaid has often gone down to -25C overnight and no problems starting next day. Appears it needs to be standing in the cold weather for several days before this issue happens or if it's unique to this car and it's flooding history....
and it's flooding history....Oh that changes everything.
The two naked cables beneath each other for jump start are a very crappy dangerous design. And before the low voltage was going dead, a automatic charging should have been implemented by Tesla. Because there is no e-power in a car full of e-power? Thats a joke! Aditionally, the low batterie possibly sucks itself to death by heating itself, those batterie are not suitable for cold environments.
If car is not plugged in, high voltage battery contactors are open (so DC-DC converter is not working). So 16v battery is alone keeping car online. Makes perfect sense. So you should keep in pluddeg in all the time ;). Meaby that flooding make more offline current. Normaly 16v battery of course should be car online at least some time. But extreme cold colder that -20 will lover 16v or 12v battery capasity. And if there is more than usual current when car is sleeping you will have more issues.
Might be very difficult to diagnose hidden power draw, same thing with gas or diesel car.
But Bilkomponenter Plaid had no issues...
Next time , unplug 16v before charging and charge it 10minutes to heat and gane some juice. ;)
That bilcomponenter plaid has not been in a flood. Meaby this one has damage to 16v battery and it has lower capasity. Or more likely there is hidden draw from 16v when car is sleeping. Valdemar can easily put ampere measure device to those 16v battery wires and see how much is current draw when car is sleeping. This measuring easy and fast but if there is hidden power draw, finding that might be very difficult.
General rule of thumb is to see what has been changed recently, and check those thing first. Have had exaple many cases when someone installs new radio and it has too big internal power draw, draining the battery overnight, or if someone has added some other devices to 12v outlet that is constantly on, like minifridge in the trunk.
@@bjornnyland Did you ask if the Bilkomponente car had Sentry mode on? Even if it was NOT plugged in during the cold nights? Possibly that is one of the differences since Sentry uses quite a bit of juice while being on for the recording cameras. Maybe it also checks and keeps the LV battery topped up from time to time.
If you want your life to revolve around your car - night and day - get an EV.
Well said. 😅
8:40 I learned from Andrew Camarata, that you can roughly tell the current flow by the size of the spark. So if it sparks good when "jumping" the LV battery, it means its charging.
Thank you... NOPE. I'll keep my ICE 2024 Corolla Hatch, thank you very much! What a royal pain in the arse to have to worry.
Bjorn should prep like an electrical engineer with multimeter and DC power supply :)
Everyone should own a digital multimeter. They're wonderful.
he really doesnt have the thinking processes to operate even a simple two wires and light bulb tester he has no understanding of battery charging etc and if the + was disconnected on the battery he was charging then its highly likly other systems were off, what stupid design I never want one even if I was given one
Or maybe he could buy himself a REAL car.
@@vernevens1598 model S is a dream car 🚗
@@fecorekasiA car that won't go is a nightmare. Especially since you can't even get in! Wait until you scrub a curb and the insurance company writes it off because the batteries will cost more than the car is worth. Or the fact that you will have to replace tires twice as much because the batteries alone weight almost as much as a small car themselves. You have been brainwashed.
13:30 The boost is probably powerful enough but that kind of booster is designed to be connected in parallel with lead battery, not used as a direct power source.
FYI, VW ID cars with software 3.2+ will also periodically recharge the 12V battery, if enabled in the VW app.
Maybe more legacy automakers have also implemented this by now?
What if you are not a tech geek and not enabled it in the VW app?
Where do you enable in the app?
Eh, every EV more or less does this already. Otherwise we would have dead batteries everywhere.
@ Like in ICE cars that turn on the engine to charge 12v battery by themselves?
@@TschingisTube An EV is not an ICE.
It is so fun to own an EV in the cold of Norwegian winters.....
This is not something the average owner of an EV is able to try to do at all.
He/she will need to call a car rescue company and then wait in cue for it to have time to get to you and help you.
And the reality many places in Norway during this cold period, was that some people had to wait for more than 24 hours before they could get help.
In Denmark, some needed to wait for more than 48 hours before they got any help.
And this was mainly because so extremely many electric cars had problems.
Making this a much bigger problem than it was when EVs were not that common.
I find it hilarious that it becomes a problem at minus 15-16 Celsius.
That is not an uncommon temperature during winters in Norway and often it becomes much colder than that in many places in Norway.
My diesel had no problems to start in minus 30, even if it had not been driven for more than a week.
The EVs clearly need to be improved a lot more to be reliable in countries/areas it is cold in the winters.
I am for sure not buying one for at least 5 years and most likely I will need to wait 10 years before the EVs are good enough for me to consider buying one.
Should have just been totaled after the flood
Yeah, this video will be picked up by the SUN... Again.... Let's be clear: my car didn't experience this issue.
The service mode look pretty cool. Are you able to read and clear faults too? I think this should be a standard feature on every modern car. I retrofittet such a system into my 20 years old car (directly into the instrument cluster) and as it is that old, from time to time there is something wrong, so it is very useful to be able check and clear faults and see live data without the need of an extra device.
The small USB boosters have a mode to forcibly push power even when no voltage is detected, so they can charge a completely dead system... and a fraction of the size of those units you used to recover. E.g. The NOCO Boost Sport GB20
I had th same problem just connect the booster or the auxiliary battery to the to the plate covered with red rubber with positive, and the negative connect to the chassis. When the computer wakes up start immediately with charging. When it starts charging you can remove the auxiliary battery. If some system do not work properly reinstall the OS from the service menu, usualy problems could be, with headlights and wireless charging. DO NOT DISCONNECT ANYTHING :)
A 100.000 Dollar brick.
Should write 100,000 not 100.000
@@10secondsrule Depends on their country, some places have '.' and ',' swapped.
So 100000 or 100k would be correct everywhere...
First car in history suffering from 12v battery issue.
Your power supply is putting put pulsed DC (not pure DC) so that would really screw up the electronics. You'd be far better advised to simply get a decent portable battery for this sort of thing.
The lesson here appears to be "don't rely on everything being electrically powered". Very good while there is power, not so good when there isn't. Teslas are too high tech for me...
I have an Enyaq which has backup manual door locks and a manual boot release.
I wrote a comment but misunderstood your point. There are manual releases for all doors, but primarily to get out rather than in.
Stay in the past.. someone has too. 👍
14:10 If you pressed the START switch (instead of CB) that would activate the start booster feature of that Biltema charger which gives more power.
I heard from some Chinese bloggers that the Tesla octo-valve made it vulnerable to ultra-cold weather while it is excellent in hot weather.
For the cost, Elon's personal phone needs to ring, so he can send specialist by copter.
Jeez, you should never connect the positive wire last when charge/boosting a battery, especially when it is connected to the car... you can fry the computers with the sparks.
Sparks either way
I don't understand. Why no physical key backup and manual hood opening? This is not a cheap car, what is the problem with having that as a backup?
Wow, EVs are so user friendly and convinient, zero issues xD LMFAO
Gas powered every time. Milk floats don't work.
"now we have to go to second base" 😂😂😂👍
Bjorn, do you have a digital multimeter? Cheap and so very useful. First thing to do would be to check voltage.
Forget Tesla. My 10 year old Nissan Leaf lead acid battery is the original one and has NEVER gone flat. The more complex you make a car the less reliable it becomes and that doesn't matter if it's and EV or not. It's a matter of record that the Leaf is the most reliable EV
My 5.5 year old 2018 Leaf 12v battery died a couple of weeks ago. Was just after a cold spell with car parked outside. Is the only ‘repair’ I’ve had to do, so not complaining.
My Tesla is 5 years old, and I have had no issues with the LV battery.
But yours and my anecdotes are of no scientific value.
There are millions of Teslas out there driven in all sorts of conditions and been reliable - something you can't say for Leafs.
16:20 I wonder if it's an issue of LV battery cannot be charged when it's -10 and it doesn't have heating like HV battery. So basically car waits for LV battery temperature to be more than -10 until it chargers it, but battery dies first and HV contactors close and car is brick. Maybe LV battery has a heater but not big enough? Or maybe it's too big and caused voltage drop at 19% to be so big that LV battery contactor opened to prevent damage?
Car could engage contactors first, enable DC-DC and set it to output current LV battery voltage and then engage LV heater. When LV heats up sufficiently - increase DC-DC output voltage according to LV battery charging profile.
You mentioned the well known Hyundai/Kia 12V dead (D.E.D.) battery issues but I wonder if they've sorted this with the latest SW update.
I've got a battery monitor on my Ioniq 5 that reports that the 12V battery is charged twice a day if the car is left standing.
Doesn't this show that the car is awake and monitoring the 12V battery charge and isn't twice a day often enough to keep the battery SOC at a reasonable level? Maybe it's an issue with the quality of standard Hyundai/Kia 12V batteries?
I've come across comments that the Ioniq won't charge the 12V battery if the traction battery is below 17.5% SOC, so I make sure that I never leave my car standing with less than 20% SOC.
I've had no issues in the two (winter) months I've owned my car. (Let's hope that I haven't cursed myself with this post! 😉)
I would recommend a lab-bench power supply.
There you can adjust the voltage- and a current- limit.
Therer are lot of good supplies available with up to 20A output for little money.
Unplugging and plugging back the LV battery will trick it to wake up in my experience
2014+Nissan Leaf wakes up once a week to top up 12V.
The timebomb is ticking 😂
I’d use a CTEK charger for use below -15 and fix in a CTEK charger connector for easy charging. Yes the Lazerlamps Elite LED bar is extremely good!
CTEK is outdated. I recommend Victron Energy chargers, they are not much more expensive than CTEK and the features are from different world. Similar like Tesla vs petrol cars.
Hmm sounds like a job for service center? Do you have mobile service over there?
Great lesson here. All these smart trickle chargers are good for maintaining but keep a an old school one wo fancy electronics for when this happens.
Bring it to an exorcist
The car says its 12V battery was discharged so everything was offline. Maybe it needs a replacement. Maybe a defective 12V
Yeah, the same thing happens to my gas car, the extreme cold kills the battery, SO,
when the weather is going to be really cold I put a battery minder on it & I plug in
the engine heater. Just using your head you can avoid these weather related
misfortunes.
!
ABC always be connected 😂
4:45 shouldn`t be this buttonlight shine if you aktivate the shuko outlet of the ecoflow?
At mine it does.......
This californian shitbox is not designed for such cold winters. Tesla driver here.
Tesla Service in germany is a nightmare.
At least my old Model S it does great when it is raining… flooding the charge port. This should be recalled!!
@@lbtobl83 oh god. What are u doing in such a situations? Dont charge? Wait till its dry?
Did u had a short circuit or is it just refusing to charge if you plug it in?
alot of those fancy electronic 12v chargers, wont start charging unless they 'see' some kinda voltage coming from the battery 1st. so if you had a completely dead battery, or one below the cutoff voltage, it wont kick in and start charging. what u can do is get an actual extra small car battery, or lawn mower battery, and use that, or get a older / more basic charger that will always give 12-14 volts regardless of battery volt. or an older more basic jump pack, ( not the li-ion small ones, but the older lead acid battery kind with a manual switch you can activate).
Tesla is crap