Another great install, just my personal preference, I always like to leave cables accessible even if its likely they'll never be used again so the next man can trace them in the case he is unaware they are no longer in use. Had some real head scratchers with cables that come and go from no where just cut and buried in walls and ceilings!
I think your videos are always a model of best practice. Would it help next you replace a consumer unit to use a plywood back board; to help cover-up any mess from the old unit.
I thought I'd installed a hager board with round knockouts once, but when I asked the wholesaler they told me I must have dreamt it! Will look out for them.
They don't burst into flames but they can last less time, like with every piece of electronics heat reduces the life of the components, so having something that runs cooler is always better.
@@alerighi But your still putting solid plastic (of the blank) against solid plastic (of the breaker). So there is no real air gap to help with heat dissipation
With regards to the tails feeling 'loose' in the Wylex isolator, my method is tightening up by hand, leaving for a period of time, torquing up, leave again for a while then do a final torque to allow for the copper compressing I agree with the spacing between RCBO's and my first blank goes next to the main switch as all the load goes through there...
To torque any fixing it must be first loosened to a point where the torque wrench or driver can firstly take the slack then be able to tighten fully in order to click out. Just tightening again after the screw has been torqued is probably over tightening the screw, only by a tiny amount . Flatten out the stranded tail first with pliers, can’t settle as there’s nothing to settle
Keep a bag 2kg of rapid set mortar (cost about £3, & sets in 20-30 minutes) & a celon block in the van for filling holes large & small,can cut celon to shape with a old hand saw,better than loads of foam. And would think you could also use Everbuild Constructa-Pro foam instead of mortar to fix Celon block in place, Using foam put down a dust sheet first,can save you a lot of grief.
It’s soo much better that you do now have a camera man, so you have your hands free to work, I really feel the pain handling the camera and fiddling materials out of the boxes in parallel 😂 But it is so „nostalgic“ to see one of your early videos with the early intro which I really love!!! I hope that you can free up some more time to be able to get back on the tools with Cory, it’s always fun to see you both working together! Keep the good content coming!!! Cheers 😎
Great video! Pscc = prospective short circuit current of negligible resistance between live and neutral Pefc = prospective short circuit current of negligible resistance between live and earth Pfc = Prospective fault current which is the GREATER of the above two values. The pfc value MUST be less than the breaking capacity of the protective device otherwise it may fail and arc across. We were taught in college many moons ago that the highest value breaker went closest to the main switch in descending order I think there was an exam question on it. You are setting a great example - keep up the good work!
a good job. only thing i would have done is used a spirit level on the top of the new consumer unit when marking the holes.. But it looks pretty straight so you have a good eye. I would have probably taken off the socket that had the higher reading just out of curiosity to see if it was a spare. 3 years ago i know, but i only recently found your channel.
Hi Jordan, just wanted to say it was a great video, also a little tip on using the Kramer siliconing tool, you were using it the wrong way round! Use the flat edge to remove silicone and not the sloped edges, you will get it super crisp 👍 from Gary near Crewe.
I think the spacing is a great Idea like the larger Consumer unit would of got one to cover the old space . Would of been minimal expense. See the Consumer unit had the new Arc protection. Can see they will be used on every circuit in the future.
I really like the Hagar gear. Didn’t know about the round knockouts which might come in handy in future. I prob would have gone with oversized enclosure to cover the hole and decoration.
i guess Im asking randomly but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the login password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Reece Orlando i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Re the RCD testing - you're interested in the device itself - not something that's connected to it. Testing them in isolation at the board (without the circuits connected) is fine. The only ones I know of that are a pain to test at the board are Eaton RCBO pods - I have had senior moments with them as I was shoving my L probe onto the MCB live screw without realising the cable into the top forms part of the transformer magnetic circuit!!
Don’t know if someone has already said this but leave the foam can connected on the gun. They last months without going off so as long as you use it once a month don’t worry. When changing for a new one allow the attached empty can to spray into a rubbish bag while unscrewing it. This removes the pressure to prevent you getting covered with foam. Don’t waste your money on foam cleaner unless your putting the gun away to store. 👍
Good video Jordan , Main switch was a struggle lol , fix the thing 1st mate , the Hager rcbos are single pole if opting for rcbos use the wylex compacts Jordan , offer better cct protection 👍
Good video, with good points from both yourself and other viewers. But one question I’ve often wondered : Firstly I’m not an electrician but for the last eight months or so, have just become hooked watching TH-cam electrical channels and have picked up a few trends and a lot of the other fellow TH-cam electricians, especially Dave Savery like to fit isolators, but he uses a company to come and install it, and Chris Reeves (CJR Electrical) uses some guy called Pablo, but both are quite happy to pull the main fuse. And yet your local rival (Sorry Jordan 😂 Dan from DSS) I’m sure in one video said he got the fire brigade to take main fuse out. For a non electrician this all seems confusing, and the way different you tubers talk, it seems there is among you sparks. One final question, think it’s been asked, but a lot seem to be going towards CP fuse box range, I think mainly due to lower costs, and despite never doing anything electrical (although have worked with electronics), I can see plus points, they seems easy to work with, having seen neat jobs done with them, and look quite solid. Have you considered them? Though the Hager’s do look hard to beat except on price.
Thanks for your comments, i've never tried the CP FuseBox so cant comment on them. Theres more than one way to skin a cat as they say thats why we all have slightly different ways of doing things but we can all learn from each other.
Leaving a gap especially when there are so many spare ways makes sense for heat dissipation, but also quite a valid point that @MyTrustedElectrican made was for the purpose of future circuits, as we usually decrease from largest to smallest Amp rating of MCB/RCBO if you want to add a circuit later you can maintain the pattern of having the largest MCB/RCBO to smallest from the main switch!
Hager boards are also available with no knockouts so that you can make whatever access you need, consider bringing former storage heater circuits cables into the new board, for future reuse when gas boilers are phased out.
@@artisanelectrics yes it can do but its a chemical called acetone or nailvarnish remover , some similar chemical and it might upset some surrouding surfaces . i does usually pick off ok if left to cure , just a bit scary if your client is due back LOL KEEP UP THE GREAT VIDS THANKYOU
Very nice work as always Jordan. As well as removing the tails, I'd have also completely removed the main earth cable to the second board at the same time. No head-scratching for the next bloke, wondering where it goes.
@@cjmillsnun why would they have put the earth as a loop from the other board, but bring in whole ass tails for the main conductors? Couldn’t they have looped the live and neutral off the first board as well?
Re the Ring Final Circuit (RFC) testing the R1+R2 at each point ought to be roughly (r1+r2)/4 unless it is a spur. The figure rising from one end towards the mid point and falling again back towards the board sounds like the interconnects are not crossing the cables over, i.e. leg 1 line to leg 1 earth, leg 2 line to leg 2 earth. Was the washing machine unplugged? When you did IR you implied there may be a load on the RFC. If you do R1+Rn with something on it the figures will probably be all over the place. Have you seen the Kewtech JUMPDL1 leads - they might help keeping your wires neater at the board doing the RFC tests? Keep up the good work and the videos :)
Jordon always when doing a board change get the carcass up then test. That way you get all ring legs correct when r1+r2 ing it’s far clearer then when you dress the cables in their finished with. Keep up the good work
A tip I got with the foam gun is not to over tighten the can onto the gun. Sometimes too tight will leave behind the little plastic nozzle and seal when unscrewing can and it will have to be removed from gun before putting a new can on or it will spray everywhere and new can won't go on.
Foaming that large hole eliminates a major cold air leak, which not only is a significant heat loss, but is a potential condensation point as the cold outside air meets the warm damp house air - especially with metal CUs. Often overlooked.
Hi Jordan, forgive me but your r1+r2 on sockets is the continuity of r1 added to continuity of r2 divided by 4 . Using your plug in test socket to your meter go between earth and line. Tony
I guess you can't be 100% certain as you've no idea what junctions there might be hidden away etc, but if there's more than one cable feeding the socket would mean it's not a simple spur
We always undo the foam cans from the gun outside for that reason and also have a can of cleaner to put on so to clean the gun and the top of the foam can as it dissolves it like magic
I always use the metal crabtree blanks aswell on metal consumer units also instead of spacing the breakers have a high load breaker next to a low load breaker and vice versa so you don't have to High load breakers together
Spacing the breakers to try to elevate heat problems is ok with few circuits and a large board BUT with many circuits then the board size might be a problem?
Great video, good to see great standard of workmanship and pride taken. 1 question how come you removed the nozzle from the foam gun. I’ve always left connected just make sure the gun is screwed closed same gun 10yrs
Very educational mate. You’ve aced it all the time bro. Question: if were to perform a Zs test at a socket and no reading was illustrated could that possibly be an earth fault somewhere? Cheers. Lincoln
The one i've got is a stainless steel one and its so tough i've been wearing it to work for over a year now and there's not a scratch on it. I do have gadget insurance though just in case I smash it one day.
I keep looking but I can’t see a neat bead of acrylic and I need readers 😂 . Use the old wet finger method after you use the profile tool (lightly) this improves the finish. Also clean the tool between sections, wetting the tool first helps too
Type AC are not redundant. Regs: 531.3.3 (note 3) covers the use of type AC for general purposes. Most domestic dwellings are considered general purpose by ordinary persons. So in reality, you could use type AC BS61009’s in a domestic CU and it would be ok. Unless you have prior knowledge of what will be plugged in etc.....or the lighting happens to be mainly LED, or there is a circuit supplying a certain type of equipment, in which case you may install a different type for those particular circuits. I do however agree that a type A is preferable, and in terms of cost not much more. I do actually install type A’s as a rule now.....I’m just pointing out that type AC’s are still acceptable.
@@Spark101. At this point it seems pointless to me to install type AC on new installations. It's probably only a matter of time before type A is required, and technology is moving heavily towards more and more DC loads.
Leave the foam on the gun. Just carry a can of foam gun cleaner and spray the tip of the foam gun once finished (and can spray the cleaner on any wet foam spills to dissolve it)
Best way to straighten wire is to use a pair of knipex flat nose insulated pliers with no serrations but two flat surfaces that do not mark the insulation but allow the wire to be straightened by pushing down on any twists as you flatten around the wire. With practice you can get very good and fast at this.
Did you get my tip for fluke needle probe tips to get into tiny recessed holes close together usually on a light bayonet fitting for your testing? www.testequipmentdepot.com/fluke/accessories/test-leads-probes-and-clips/test-lead-probe-kits/extended-fine-point-tip-adapters-8845aefpt.htm?ref=gbase&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiYL3BRDVARIsAF9E4GfPJv7yfuN7K6Pwdk4TTYSrnocd0BGaq50Sz88sWLof9lYR6pmx74UaAjM5EALw_wcB We get these in the USA you should be able to find them in U.K. as well? The are insulated all the way down to the tips.
This may be a stupid question (as I'm not an electrician!) but before you disconnected the tails in the meter box why did you not label which one was which? i.e. you know which was L and N from the meter but which was L & N on the other side of the connector you removed? You've just got 4 grey cables
Australian engineer, retired in Thailand here, really enjoy your videos! What is the name of the - what I believe - the custom cable from the MCB to the surge protectore? I've not seen this before, looks very flexible. Australian electrical standards are "super strict", much like the UK, with some subtle differences. Thailand, "standards"? Highly unlikely! Had to re-cable our new home, 1mm cable to a 5Kw hot water, NO WAY! Thanks for all your work on the TH-cam channel!
Another reason to put spaces between, when you're flipping switches it's annoying when you catch circuits you don't want to power off - plus IMHO it looks tidier, but that's eye of the beholder stuff.
Use the gun cleaner to get that of the carpet I normanly leave the foam on the gun but wind the knob in or take it outside and undo it over the bit and clean the gun and top of can
I have a (slight) issue with using lots of RCBOs in a consumer unit. They normally each dissipate between 0.5W and 1.0W[1] so if you shove 6 in a box then you could be consuming 6 Watts 24/365. This works out at 50KWH/year which is not insignificant[2]. By comparison a couple of RCDs feeding a bunch of MCBs will waste a lot less power. [1] Most data sheets don't state this power dissipation figure so you have to measure it on real devices. Power factor can be really poor so make sure you are measuring real power. [2] At current GHG figures 50KWH represents 12.5KG CO2/year and annual consumption will cost around GBP 7.50
If you don't take a partially full can off the gun and just shut it off from the back and tape the end up it won't go off and you just use it again later.
Had a new consumer unit installed and now the boiler is tripping the unit and electrician claims the boiler is faulty and the consumer unit is fine. The boiler has worked well for the parts 20 years and it is a Floor standing boiler CF 80 and had never broken down for 20 years and it has had a service every year for 2O years. Do I get another electrician to check the new consumer unit before attending to the boiler A boiler gas safe came to have a look and said the fault is from the consumer unit and can’t tell if the boiler is the problem. What should the new electrician be looking for in the consumer unit Can you advise
re foam guns, leave the foam canister in the gun if some left, then just clean the nozzle when needed with a Stanley blade. the foam at the tip of the gun forms a seal so the foam never goes of
I have noticed you have been regularly fitting boards with an SPD. When is it deemed necessary to include one? I am thinking about upgrading my CU (average size 3 bed semi, with usual tech TV router, bit of audio equipment etc), but don't know whether to ask for one or not.
I would have fitted sockets to the old storage circuits. Yes I know they said they are not getting used but sods law says they need a socket for something plus not going to waste
Hi Jordan. Great jobs and videos ! Regarding the spacing; What about putting a blank between the main breaker and RCBO? Or space them like this 0110110MM ?
They installed lights over the windows like that back in the day rather than in the middle of the room to prevent shadows of people getting unchanged appearing on the windows 👍
Hi thanks for the videos. I am trying to help my elderly mother in law who has 2 bedroom flat she rents out. I appreciate from your vidoes that there is a lot of work with EICR TESTING and remedial work. What would be an accurate price to up grade a consumer unit in a 2 bedroom flat , repair the earth continuity on the shower, and fit fire rated lights in the kitchen (6) approxiamately ?
Good morning from Phuket, thank you for your reply, nice touch in this anonymous world in which we live! What is the name of the - what I believe - the custom cable from the MCB to the surge protector? I've never seen this as a "product", as such?
I have searched through the comments. Sorry to be a pest. I cannot see where to get the edge strip. Fantastic idea. Can you repost the link please. Thank you
I dont really think in bigger propertys the splitting of rcbos is really viable as you need to leave 20% of the boards usable ways for expansion when changing a db and by spreading them out and saying people cant add circuits in between you are not meeting the 20% for expansion unless you oversize the board more which most people arent going to pay for double the extra capacity
I think I would have pulled the old wires into the board and shorted them together they may not be a convenient spot now but they might be a convenient spot later. And I wouldn't recommend using a label printer for the dates though it is nice and clear it does have the hint of I can replace that. Looks nice otherwise. yeah the spacing would probably drive me nuts too although having the gaps means adding Breakers can be done in sequential order which I'll take that annoyance over the other one. When I change my board out I did something I don't think I've ever seen I left the top four spaces empty, this is a u.s. board. I've never seen that done but I thought it gives me an option for a high-power circuit that might go in later and a changeover switch for backup generator without having to rearrange everything else and relabel.
Why do RCBOs get warm? Is it just due to the current running through them, or are they another "vampire power" device that needs a small amount of power for its own operation? I hope it isn't the latter, like anything always on standby when you start multiplying tiny amounts of power by many millions it represents a lot of energy wasted. (e.g. smart light bulbs!)
I would have taken the neutral fly leads around the back of the meter tails in the board, also I always completely cut off the ends of the meter tails and freshly re make them off. The copper could have been damaged
Another great vid... wouldn’t it be better to have an agreement with your client that if on the pre-inspection visual you find obvious Cat 1’s then you bring this to their attention prior to testing, then save them the cost of 2 tests I.e. Pre on Post... it might be less income but certainly better VFM for the client?
i always thought removal of the main fuse by any electrician was illegal as it's not the property of the homeowner, and can lead to a fine, a few DNO's will approve certain electritians to remove the fuse for safe isolotion procedures and supply them with crimps and approved numbers, but i was always taught what we can touch is from outgoing terminals on the meter
DNO engineers , need to pass a live working exam every 5 years , to remove and insert fuses and are certificated to do so OP1 & OP2 .HSE are very strict about this and it is a rigid exam to pass , as HSE do not want any live working to take place , unless it is highly inconvenient to a number of customers ( not one , in this guys examples ) and keep the authorised persons number to a minimum amount.
As you correctly point out , there is specialised PPE required for this procedure, also the engineer , carrying out the work , has a personalised set of sealing pliers , with his payroll number and when he seals any DNO property , the seal carries this number , embedded upon it .I am sure these type of immoral workmanship , will have and will encourage people to interfere , with the metering equipment installed in their properties, especially with the cost , of all energy , going through the roof !
Hi, can the lice tests, zs and rcd, be done with equipment connected or can this be damaging or provide in accurate readings. Getting conflicting opinions. I reckon it should not make a difference right?
Where Earth Conductors have previously been twisted drag your Pliers from the Grey double insulated to the end this will get the majority of the kinks out
HI Jordan , no its insane lol, nice and neat install though on a domestic would every circuit be on full whack drawing maximum load all at once, or was the person suggesting the RCBO run hot when not drawing any load, certainly an interesting topic for discussion, As for using the space in the future for double module AFDD, you would have then lost the space you wanted to keep,...... And we would be buying boards double the size we would need, i think if this was and issue manufactures would be creating the space. ps braver than me for pulling main fuse on a video , keep up the good work
If you want to iron out the earth wires after they have been twisted pull the shaft of a rounded metal screw driver down the wire whilst its pulled tight, gets all the wrinkles out. According to AvE it also works on your dingus....
Great install good for apprentices that can learn about testing.
Thanks
Love watching your videos. You're extremely professional. Lots of common things I can learn from you. Keep it up!
Another great install, just my personal preference, I always like to leave cables accessible even if its likely they'll never be used again so the next man can trace them in the case he is unaware they are no longer in use. Had some real head scratchers with cables that come and go from no where just cut and buried in walls and ceilings!
Glad you added the additional "blank", NEAT!
Good quality job.. like the attention to detail
I always use the 2mm earth sleeving. I find it easyer to get on with.
Yeah its nice for consumer units but for lighting points I find it can sometimes slip into the terminal and you end up screwing the sleeving.
My go to sleeving now, love using 2m looks so much neater on boards, and accessories 👌🏻
I hate to see baggy sleeving that doesn't follow bends very well... I know it's only aesthetics, but it bugs me!
Another great video. Learned a lot there but your running up and down the stairs is doing nothing for my vertigo. Keep up the most excellent work.
I think your videos are always a model of best practice. Would it help next you replace a consumer unit to use a plywood back board; to help cover-up any mess from the old unit.
I thought I'd installed a hager board with round knockouts once, but when I asked the wholesaler they told me I must have dreamt it! Will look out for them.
Funny
I think hagar do enough testing to make sure that their products don't burst into flames. Separation is not necessary.
They don't burst into flames but they can last less time, like with every piece of electronics heat reduces the life of the components, so having something that runs cooler is always better.
I was obviously exaggerating but nevertheless , hagar and other manufacturers have this problem covered .
@@alerighi But your still putting solid plastic (of the blank) against solid plastic (of the breaker). So there is no real air gap to help with heat dissipation
Brian Wood Are the blanks solid?
No they do leave an air gap if you put blanks in
This guy's knowledge and experience! I'd love to invest three days shadowing this professional.
With regards to the tails feeling 'loose' in the Wylex isolator, my method is tightening up by hand, leaving for a period of time, torquing up, leave again for a while then do a final torque to allow for the copper compressing
I agree with the spacing between RCBO's and my first blank goes next to the main switch as all the load goes through there...
To torque any fixing it must be first loosened to a point where the torque wrench or driver can firstly take the slack then be able to tighten fully in order to click out. Just tightening again after the screw has been torqued is probably over tightening the screw, only by a tiny amount .
Flatten out the stranded tail first with pliers, can’t settle as there’s nothing to settle
Steven Murphy Forgot to mention about flattening the strands too, thank you. There’s a white paper about it out there on the interweb
Keep a bag 2kg of rapid set mortar (cost about £3, & sets in 20-30 minutes) & a celon block in the van for filling holes large & small,can cut celon to shape with a old hand saw,better than loads of foam.
And would think you could also use Everbuild Constructa-Pro foam instead of mortar to fix Celon block in place,
Using foam put down a dust sheet first,can save you a lot of grief.
Nice tip thanks!
It’s soo much better that you do now have a camera man, so you have your hands free to work, I really feel the pain handling the camera and fiddling materials out of the boxes in parallel 😂
But it is so „nostalgic“ to see one of your early videos with the early intro which I really love!!!
I hope that you can free up some more time to be able to get back on the tools with Cory, it’s always fun to see you both working together!
Keep the good content coming!!!
Cheers 😎
Great video!
Pscc = prospective short circuit current of negligible resistance between live and neutral
Pefc = prospective short circuit current of negligible resistance between live and earth
Pfc = Prospective fault current which is the GREATER of the above two values.
The pfc value MUST be less than the breaking capacity of the protective device otherwise it may fail and arc across.
We were taught in college many moons ago that the highest value breaker went closest to the main switch in descending order
I think there was an exam question on it. You are setting a great example - keep up the good work!
Thanks a lot
Brilliant idea with the spacing!!! Even if you leave it empty in case you don't have the blank !
Thanks!
The facials in your thumbnails really batter my Haddock. Please keep them coming, i can't play pump friction without them. Mmmmmmm
What sort of tester is that looks really smart
a good job. only thing i would have done is used a spirit level on the top of the new consumer unit when marking the holes.. But it looks pretty straight so you have a good eye. I would have probably taken off the socket that had the higher reading just out of curiosity to see if it was a spare. 3 years ago i know, but i only recently found your channel.
Really enjoyed the amount of Adds you put into your video thanks 👍
Blame TH-cam for that
Kevin Smith if you do some research, the host decides how many adverts they have and where they place them throughout the videos..
Nice job ,
I usually do ring final continuity before I terminate just to save dressing the board in again , great stuff though 👍
OMG Jordan I was just about to smash the keyboard up with my OCD, then you spaced that final breaker,,,, Phewwww..... :)
Hi Jordan, just wanted to say it was a great video, also a little tip on using the Kramer siliconing tool, you were using it the wrong way round! Use the flat edge to remove silicone and not the sloped edges, you will get it super crisp 👍 from Gary near Crewe.
Great thanks! 👍
Just out of curiosity, how much roughly would that job be, you don’t have to say exactly but just a ball park figure, thanks
£750
Thanks, I’ll have to save up!
I think the spacing is a great Idea like the larger Consumer unit would of got one to cover the old space . Would of been minimal expense. See the Consumer unit had the new Arc protection. Can see they will be used on every circuit in the future.
Love watching your videos they are really inspiring learned a lot from them thanks
Glad you like them!
I really like the Hagar gear. Didn’t know about the round knockouts which might come in handy in future. I prob would have gone with oversized enclosure to cover the hole and decoration.
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@George Logan instablaster =)
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Re the RCD testing - you're interested in the device itself - not something that's connected to it. Testing them in isolation at the board (without the circuits connected) is fine. The only ones I know of that are a pain to test at the board are Eaton RCBO pods - I have had senior moments with them as I was shoving my L probe onto the MCB live screw without realising the cable into the top forms part of the transformer magnetic circuit!!
Alway let your foam set then clean it off so much easyer. Top video as always.
Great tip!
Don’t know if someone has already said this but leave the foam can connected on the gun. They last months without going off so as long as you use it once a month don’t worry. When changing for a new one allow the attached empty can to spray into a rubbish bag while unscrewing it. This removes the pressure to prevent you getting covered with foam. Don’t waste your money on foam cleaner unless your putting the gun away to store. 👍
Love the constant flow of content thanks very much appreciate your hard work. 👍
My pleasure!
Good video Jordan , Main switch was a struggle lol , fix the thing 1st mate , the Hager rcbos are single pole if opting for rcbos use the wylex compacts Jordan , offer better cct protection 👍
Thanks for the info
Hope the hager rcbos are better now than thay used to be thay were all ways going faulty or burn out .
Good video, with good points from both yourself and other viewers. But one question I’ve often wondered : Firstly I’m not an electrician but for the last eight months or so, have just become hooked watching TH-cam electrical channels and have picked up a few trends and a lot of the other fellow TH-cam electricians, especially Dave Savery like to fit isolators, but he uses a company to come and install it, and Chris Reeves (CJR Electrical) uses some guy called Pablo, but both are quite happy to pull the main fuse. And yet your local rival (Sorry Jordan 😂 Dan from DSS) I’m sure in one video said he got the fire brigade to take main fuse out. For a non electrician this all seems confusing, and the way different you tubers talk, it seems there is among you sparks. One final question, think it’s been asked, but a lot seem to be going towards CP fuse box range, I think mainly due to lower costs, and despite never doing anything electrical (although have worked with electronics), I can see plus points, they seems easy to work with, having seen neat jobs done with them, and look quite solid. Have you considered them? Though the Hager’s do look hard to beat except on price.
Thanks for your comments, i've never tried the CP FuseBox so cant comment on them. Theres more than one way to skin a cat as they say thats why we all have slightly different ways of doing things but we can all learn from each other.
Leaving a gap especially when there are so many spare ways makes sense for heat dissipation, but also quite a valid point that @MyTrustedElectrican made was for the purpose of future circuits, as we usually decrease from largest to smallest Amp rating of MCB/RCBO if you want to add a circuit later you can maintain the pattern of having the largest MCB/RCBO to smallest from the main switch!
If there’s an overheating issue then surely it’s a design fault which should be addressed by the manufacturer.
Hager boards are also available with no knockouts so that you can make whatever access you need,
consider bringing former storage heater circuits cables into the new board, for future reuse when gas boilers are phased out.
any spilt foam ALWAYS let it go off before removing it . it will clean up much better Jorden.
Another great vid
Ok thanks! I used the cleaning solution on it and it got cleaned off ok.
@@artisanelectrics yes it can do but its a chemical called acetone or nailvarnish remover , some similar chemical and it might upset some surrouding surfaces . i does usually pick off ok if left to cure , just a bit scary if your client is due back LOL
KEEP UP THE GREAT VIDS THANKYOU
Very nice work as always Jordan.
As well as removing the tails, I'd have also completely removed the main earth cable to the second board at the same time. No head-scratching for the next bloke, wondering where it goes.
He did. It was a loop from the first board. The other earth tails on the PME were the bonding for the water and gas.
@@cjmillsnun Missed that, thanks for clearing it up.
@@cjmillsnun why would they have put the earth as a loop from the other board, but bring in whole ass tails for the main conductors? Couldn’t they have looped the live and neutral off the first board as well?
Re the Ring Final Circuit (RFC) testing the R1+R2 at each point ought to be roughly (r1+r2)/4 unless it is a spur. The figure rising from one end towards the mid point and falling again back towards the board sounds like the interconnects are not crossing the cables over, i.e. leg 1 line to leg 1 earth, leg 2 line to leg 2 earth.
Was the washing machine unplugged? When you did IR you implied there may be a load on the RFC. If you do R1+Rn with something on it the figures will probably be all over the place.
Have you seen the Kewtech JUMPDL1 leads - they might help keeping your wires neater at the board doing the RFC tests?
Keep up the good work and the videos :)
Was surprised he didn't check the interconnects. The readings should all have been within 0.05 of the calculated r1 r2 unless a spur I thought?
Jordon always when doing a board change get the carcass up then test. That way you get all ring legs correct when r1+r2 ing it’s far clearer then when you dress the cables in their finished with. Keep up the good work
Cool, thanks
Very nice job, but I definitely would have fire foamed both holes up before fitting the board.
That was great worked
A tip I got with the foam gun is not to over tighten the can onto the gun. Sometimes too tight will leave behind the little plastic nozzle and seal when unscrewing can and it will have to be removed from gun before putting a new can on or it will spray everywhere and new can won't go on.
Thanks for the tip!
Nice and neat installation of the board but my OCD would have put the RCBO Neutral fly leads behind the tails 😅
Foaming that large hole eliminates a major cold air leak, which not only is a significant heat loss, but is a potential condensation point as the cold outside air meets the warm damp house air - especially with metal CUs. Often overlooked.
Hi Jordan, forgive me but your r1+r2 on sockets is the continuity of r1 added to continuity of r2 divided by 4 . Using your plug in test socket to your meter go between earth and line. Tony
Yes thats right
Is it worth verifying the ones with the higher readings were individual spurs and not eg a spur off a spur (which could overload the cable)?
How would you verify that?
I guess you can't be 100% certain as you've no idea what junctions there might be hidden away etc, but if there's more than one cable feeding the socket would mean it's not a simple spur
Agree re the spacing of RCBOS, started doing this a while back and believe it is good practice when installing RCBOS.
We always undo the foam cans from the gun outside for that reason and also have a can of cleaner to put on so to clean the gun and the top of the foam can as it dissolves it like magic
That's great 🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤❤Thanks
Isn't it illegal to pull / open the incoming fuse without DNO authorisation ?
No it’s not
@@artisanelectrics you sure!!!, it’s also a requirement if you have the authorisations that the correct PPE is worn
another well job well done
It looks like the older twin and earth with the 2.5mm only having a 1.0mm CPC, going on your readings!
Yeah I think you’re right!
wylex now do a combined RCBO/AFDD for their boards. I'm sure it won't be long until others follow suit. Great Job
Thanks!
@@artisanelectrics Yes i believe they are
I always use the metal crabtree blanks aswell on metal consumer units also instead of spacing the breakers have a high load breaker next to a low load breaker and vice versa so you don't have to High load breakers together
expanding foam. if you have not got the cleaner can at hand, wait till the stuff goes off and hardens, easy enough to pick off then.
Spacing the breakers to try to elevate heat problems is ok with few circuits and a large board BUT with many circuits then the board size might be a problem?
Jordan.....segregating the RCBO’s is insane!
Haha I thought you would say that
@@artisanelectrics Maybe not... Google "MCB derating factor"
Great video, good to see great standard of workmanship and pride taken. 1 question how come you removed the nozzle from the foam gun. I’ve always left connected just make sure the gun is screwed closed same gun 10yrs
Thank you for a great informative video :) #learningthetrade
Very educational mate. You’ve aced it all the time bro. Question: if were to perform a Zs test at a socket and no reading was illustrated could that possibly be an earth fault somewhere? Cheers.
Lincoln
Thanks! Yeah if no reading comes up there may be a fault somewhere.
Not related to the vid but how do you get on wearing a smart watch? I want one but worry about smashing it 🤦♂️
The one i've got is a stainless steel one and its so tough i've been wearing it to work for over a year now and there's not a scratch on it. I do have gadget insurance though just in case I smash it one day.
I’m a sparky in Guernsey and I wear an Apple Watch with a rubber case on it with a protective screen
the only thing I would have done different was pass the RCBO neutrals around the rear of the input tails
I keep looking but I can’t see a neat bead of acrylic and I need readers 😂 . Use the old wet finger method after you use the profile tool (lightly) this improves the finish. Also clean the tool between sections, wetting the tool first helps too
Thanks for the tip!
Great job. Type A rcbo with SPD seems to be the way to go now. Type AC redundant for obvious reasons.
Thanks yeah definitely
Type AC are not redundant. Regs: 531.3.3 (note 3) covers the use of type AC for general purposes. Most domestic dwellings are considered general purpose by ordinary persons. So in reality, you could use type AC BS61009’s in a domestic CU and it would be ok. Unless you have prior knowledge of what will be plugged in etc.....or the lighting happens to be mainly LED, or there is a circuit supplying a certain type of equipment, in which case you may install a different type for those particular circuits.
I do however agree that a type A is preferable, and in terms of cost not much more. I do actually install type A’s as a rule now.....I’m just pointing out that type AC’s are still acceptable.
@@Spark101. At this point it seems pointless to me to install type AC on new installations. It's probably only a matter of time before type A is required, and technology is moving heavily towards more and more DC loads.
Definitely
Nice job feel your pain with the foam
Haha thanks
Leave the foam on the gun. Just carry a can of foam gun cleaner and spray the tip of the foam gun once finished (and can spray the cleaner on any wet foam spills to dissolve it)
Best way to straighten wire is to use a pair of knipex flat nose insulated pliers with no serrations but two flat surfaces that do not mark the insulation but allow the wire to be straightened by pushing down on any twists as you flatten around the wire. With practice you can get very good and fast at this.
Nice
Did you get my tip for fluke needle probe tips to get into tiny recessed holes close together usually on a light bayonet fitting for your testing?
www.testequipmentdepot.com/fluke/accessories/test-leads-probes-and-clips/test-lead-probe-kits/extended-fine-point-tip-adapters-8845aefpt.htm?ref=gbase&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiYL3BRDVARIsAF9E4GfPJv7yfuN7K6Pwdk4TTYSrnocd0BGaq50Sz88sWLof9lYR6pmx74UaAjM5EALw_wcB
We get these in the USA you should be able to find them in U.K. as well? The are insulated all the way down to the tips.
This may be a stupid question (as I'm not an electrician!) but before you disconnected the tails in the meter box why did you not label which one was which? i.e. you know which was L and N from the meter but which was L & N on the other side of the connector you removed? You've just got 4 grey cables
Australian engineer, retired in Thailand here, really enjoy your videos!
What is the name of the - what I believe - the custom cable from the MCB to the surge protectore?
I've not seen this before, looks very flexible.
Australian electrical standards are "super strict", much like the UK, with some subtle differences.
Thailand, "standards"? Highly unlikely!
Had to re-cable our new home, 1mm cable to a 5Kw hot water, NO WAY!
Thanks for all your work on the TH-cam channel!
Wow thanks for watching! Lovely place to retire!
Another reason to put spaces between, when you're flipping switches it's annoying when you catch circuits you don't want to power off - plus IMHO it looks tidier, but that's eye of the beholder stuff.
Use the gun cleaner to get that of the carpet I normanly leave the foam on the gun but wind the knob in or take it outside and undo it over the bit and clean the gun and top of can
I have a (slight) issue with using lots of RCBOs in a consumer unit. They normally each dissipate between 0.5W and 1.0W[1] so if you shove 6 in a box then you could be consuming 6 Watts 24/365. This works out at 50KWH/year which is not insignificant[2]. By comparison a couple of RCDs feeding a bunch of MCBs will waste a lot less power.
[1] Most data sheets don't state this power dissipation figure so you have to measure it on real devices. Power factor can be really poor so make sure you are measuring real power.
[2] At current GHG figures 50KWH represents 12.5KG CO2/year and annual consumption will cost around GBP 7.50
its far worse with a 10 way AFDD board.. we are working towards fuel poverty and hidden cost of wonership.
Great comment thanks it’s food for thought!
I just use the hand held disposable expanding foam. Never had much luck with the guns.
Yeah think thats sensible
If you don't take a partially full can off the gun and just shut it off from the back and tape the end up it won't go off and you just use it again later.
Cool, now I know that if I want to tamper with the isolator or main fuse, I can just buy a toggle kit off eBay and replace them afterwards! :D
Had a new consumer unit installed and now the boiler is tripping the unit and electrician claims the boiler is faulty and the consumer unit is fine.
The boiler has worked well for the parts 20 years and it is a
Floor standing boiler CF 80 and had never broken down for 20 years and it has had a service every year for 2O years.
Do I get another electrician to check the new consumer unit before attending to the boiler
A boiler gas safe came to have a look and said the fault is from the consumer unit and can’t tell if the boiler is the problem.
What should the new electrician be looking for in the consumer unit
Can you advise
re foam guns, leave the foam canister in the gun if some left, then just clean the nozzle when needed with a Stanley blade. the foam at the tip of the gun forms a seal so the foam never goes of
Nice thanks!
I have noticed you have been regularly fitting boards with an SPD. When is it deemed necessary to include one? I am thinking about upgrading my CU (average size 3 bed semi, with usual tech TV router, bit of audio equipment etc), but don't know whether to ask for one or not.
I would have fitted sockets to the old storage circuits. Yes I know they said they are not getting used but sods law says they need a socket for something plus not going to waste
I also find that removing the guts out of the board carcus makes it heeps easier at mounting it when pull in old cables
Can you try low expansion foam they might have small containers of it. Heaps good show, keeps me on my toes!
Hi Jordan. Great jobs and videos ! Regarding the spacing; What about putting a blank between the main breaker and RCBO? Or space them like this 0110110MM ?
They installed lights over the windows like that back in the day rather than in the middle of the room to prevent shadows of people getting unchanged appearing on the windows 👍
Hi thanks for the videos. I am trying to help my elderly mother in law who has 2 bedroom flat she rents out. I appreciate from your vidoes that there is a lot of work with EICR TESTING and remedial work. What would be an accurate price to up grade a consumer unit in a 2 bedroom flat , repair the earth continuity on the shower, and fit fire rated lights in the kitchen (6) approxiamately ?
Good morning from Phuket, thank you for your reply, nice touch in this anonymous world in which we live!
What is the name of the - what I believe - the custom cable from the MCB to the surge protector? I've never seen this as a "product", as such?
I have searched through the comments. Sorry to be a pest. I cannot see where to get the edge strip. Fantastic idea. Can you repost the link please. Thank you
amzn.to/38iujfO
I dont really think in bigger propertys the splitting of rcbos is really viable as you need to leave 20% of the boards usable ways for expansion when changing a db and by spreading them out and saying people cant add circuits in between you are not meeting the 20% for expansion unless you oversize the board more which most people arent going to pay for double the extra capacity
Yes you're right although to be fair it doesn't cost much more for a larger board, the biggest cost is the RCBO's themselves.
I think I would have pulled the old wires into the board and shorted them together they may not be a convenient spot now but they might be a convenient spot later. And I wouldn't recommend using a label printer for the dates though it is nice and clear it does have the hint of I can replace that. Looks nice otherwise. yeah the spacing would probably drive me nuts too although having the gaps means adding Breakers can be done in sequential order which I'll take that annoyance over the other one.
When I change my board out I did something I don't think I've ever seen I left the top four spaces empty, this is a u.s. board. I've never seen that done but I thought it gives me an option for a high-power circuit that might go in later and a changeover switch for backup generator without having to rearrange everything else and relabel.
I use my finger in a nitrile glove to smooth caulk and silicone. Stops you getting sticky fingers 🙂
Nice tip
@@artisanelectrics My mate passed that tip on to me. He learned it from a friend when he was sealing a kitchen worktop to a wall.
There must be a tool you don’t have? We should run a competition to find one! Great video thanks.
Haha thanks what a fun idea!
Why do RCBOs get warm? Is it just due to the current running through them, or are they another "vampire power" device that needs a small amount of power for its own operation? I hope it isn't the latter, like anything always on standby when you start multiplying tiny amounts of power by many millions it represents a lot of energy wasted. (e.g. smart light bulbs!)
I would have taken the neutral fly leads around the back of the meter tails in the board, also I always completely cut off the ends of the meter tails and freshly re make them off. The copper could have been damaged
Thanks
Another great vid... wouldn’t it be better to have an agreement with your client that if on the pre-inspection visual you find obvious Cat 1’s then you bring this to their attention prior to testing, then save them the cost of 2 tests I.e. Pre on Post... it might be less income but certainly better VFM for the client?
That’s a good idea!
i always thought removal of the main fuse by any electrician was illegal as it's not the property of the homeowner, and can lead to a fine, a few DNO's will approve certain electritians to remove the fuse for safe isolotion procedures and supply them with crimps and approved numbers, but i was always taught what we can touch is from outgoing terminals on the meter
DNO engineers , need to pass a live working exam every 5 years , to remove and insert fuses and are certificated to do so OP1 & OP2 .HSE are very strict about this and it is a rigid exam to pass , as HSE do not want any live working to take place , unless it is highly inconvenient to a number of customers ( not one , in this guys examples ) and keep the authorised persons number to a minimum amount.
As you correctly point out , there is specialised PPE required for this procedure, also the engineer , carrying out the work , has a personalised set of sealing pliers , with his payroll number and when he seals any DNO property , the seal carries this number , embedded upon it .I am sure these type of immoral workmanship , will have and will encourage people to interfere , with the metering equipment installed in their properties, especially with the cost , of all energy , going through the roof !
Nice bro,,,,!
Jordan maybe you should carry a small can of Magnolia paint or white undercoat to touch up when you take off big old boards.
Hah
@@artisanelectrics It would only take a few minutes & think how impressed your client's will think. LOL
Dobra robota 👌👍👏
Hi, can the lice tests, zs and rcd, be done with equipment connected or can this be damaging or provide in accurate readings. Getting conflicting opinions. I reckon it should not make a difference right?
Duuuuuuude did you get the grommet strip idea from me??! @bristolsparky!!🤙🏻🤙🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
Yes I did thanks so much for speaking up! I knew it was from someone on instagram but couldn't remember who!
Where Earth Conductors have previously been twisted drag your Pliers from the Grey double insulated to the end this will get the majority of the kinks out
HI Jordan , no its insane lol, nice and neat install though
on a domestic would every circuit be on full whack drawing maximum load all at once, or was the person suggesting the RCBO run hot when not drawing any load, certainly an interesting topic for discussion,
As for using the space in the future for double module AFDD, you would have then lost the space you wanted to keep,...... And we would be buying boards double the size we would need,
i think if this was and issue manufactures would be creating the space.
ps braver than me for pulling main fuse on a video , keep up the good work
Thanks
If you want to iron out the earth wires after they have been twisted pull the shaft of a rounded metal screw driver down the wire whilst its pulled tight, gets all the wrinkles out. According to AvE it also works on your dingus....
Great tip 😂
I would of put a schedule of test results sticker on the consumer unit
Yeah I just usually do a printed version as the stickers are pretty rubbish.