Facing on the Lathe
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 พ.ย. 2013
- The first in a series of videos on the most basic machining operations. This one covers how to face the end of a part or shoulder using a tool using a tool ground in the video "Grinding Turning and Facing Tools for the Lathe". Reference material for the facing tool showing the proper tool geometry is available on the website tomstechniques.com.
- แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This is exactly the type of video a novice (being generous here), like me needs. Haven't touched a lathe since shop class in jr. high school 50 years ago and unfortunately didn't pay as much attention as I should have. Interested in buying a small lathe for my garage, reading and watching video's but some of the most basic questions like how to position the cutting tool, which cutting tool to use and rotation of the lathe never get answered. Thanks for putting this together.
Thank you, my friend. Been around machine tools my entire life but have zero experience actually USING them. Recently squired my first lathe. These videos are EXACTLY what I need. Sincerely, Thank You!
All of these videos are very useful. Thanks for having the discipline to not add distracting annoying background music to the videos like so many other youtube users do.
Background music? In the shop? The sound of the machines is music enough to my ears. :)
Tom
Toms Techniques as an electrician, when you turn on the 3p, the transformer hum sounds like a symphony to me lol
Yes, but even symphonic music gets old after a while. I am working on a way to cut down the sound of the phase converter a bit, so enjoy it while you can. :)
Tom
I'm studying to become an engineer and I have to make a clamp for my final. I'm a virgin when it comes to any machinery but you made me impress my machine shop prof. He's an old German guy and he had no faith in anyone in the class as they thought it would be free marks. My prof taught my class to face a piece of metal on a lathe and no one finished within the first class except for around 3 student in class. I was done within 30 min of a 3 hour class and I would have been done faster if the teacher wasn't teaching safety. These videos are very helpful and I don't think people of my age understand the true value of machining, it's a fantastic skill to have. Thanks again I got an A in my class!
Good to hear, but the credit should go to you for preparing for the class ahead of time. Good job!
Tom
This is good. What is important to keep in mind is unlike when us 50 through 80 year olds went to High School, today a lot of Public High Schools no longer teach machine shop so a lot of young men (and women) graduate many never even having seen a lathe or a mill. The reason is simple. The emphasis is on preparing kids to enter the work force and for muultiple reasons factories where a knowledge of machine tools is needed have become scarce in many towns and communities. Jobs are in C++ or computer graphics, or running a McD. You can look in Monster or Indeed every day and not see a single job for an apprentice machinist. Those days are gone. Meanwhile full size Bridgeports from closed factories at unbelievably low price flood Ebay and the low cost Chinese (Sieg) mini millss and mini lathes running on 110volts pop up in the Lowes and Home Depot and online. Sounds handy so the 20 years olds buy them. Heck, they are handy (where were they when I was 22?),, but the average 22 year old very much needs your videos to even begin to understand how to run them or what they can do,
Ken ibn Anak Thats me your talking about. But im 30 😀 just boughy a small sieg lathe on impulse. Now i need the learn everything
I totally agree. We had wood, metal, auto shop in high school. Home economics also. I took them all and have saved tons of money doing my own repairs and remodeling. My son’s hs had no vocational classes but small engine repair. I taught him wood working and basic auto repair. Kids now days are screwed, their parents don’t know how to fix or build stuff. They have to rely on others. The only good thing is community colleges. They have vocational schooling. On a community forum people are asking for Plummer’s to change a faucet, or electricians to change an outlet. Even to change a bike tire. How can you go through life not knowing how to fix stuff.
I am the person you describe didn't have any form of shop at the highschool I did most of highschool at I'm currently 22 have a sharp knee mill a small might welder a large selection of professional grade hand tools for working on my project car and just bought a 10 inch chinese lathe
at least my school has that class
I am using this video as part of my online instructions during the Covid 19 quarantine
for my high school metal fab classes. We are using manual lathes and this will go well as a review.
Thanks!
I have a lab report to do on lathe machining, but amidst the quarantine, we're all at home with no access to the lathes. Being a hands-on learner, I have no idea what I'm doing without at least seeing the lathe work, so this video was far more helpful than any lab manuals the teacher has thrown at me. Thank you, good sir!
It's good to hear the videos are helping, but the best way to learn machining is by getting your hands dirty. Hopefully you will have access to the lathes soon!
Thanks for the videos. I have been running a lathe for a few years, but mostly self taught, and I love picking up new info from your videos that can help me get better at my job.
Heey the tools always confuse me lol
Thank you. You are absolutely right, there is a real need for someone to help novice lathe operators become familiar with performing very basic operations. There are many machining videos on TH-cam, but none that I have found that cover this material as thoroughly and as organized as you. You are performing a great service, and again, thank you.
Thanks!
Tomorrows video will be on zeroing the dials and turning to a diameter. Pretty basic stuff, but it must be mastered before attempting more complex operations.
Tom
Another excellent video! Thank you for your generosity in sharing your knowledge with us!
Bought my first HSS blank and made a facing tool that worked perfectly the first time because of this video. Followed your instructions and freehanded it on the grinder. The tool cut stainless steel like butter on my mini-lathe. I can't see buying inserts anymore because now I can customize my own grinds. Thanks!
Sounds like a success story to me! I'm glad it worked out for you.
Tom
this is exactly what ive been looking for thank you, i really need this for my exam
G-MORE
Glad I could help with your homework. :)
Same but my exam is a term paper Because Corona
Thank you Tom. Using these in my classroom at secondary school. Well done!
Thank you, I'm new to all this machining and these are exactly what I need to see at this time. You videos are very clear and easy to understand. good job!
Thanks Mark, that's good to hear.
Tom
That was nice and simple. I see other videos of people making elaborate complicated centering tools. This was my thinking that you can eye ball it and then roll it up or down and I thought I was incorrect. But this shows that common sense should be given attention more often. Thank you.
Thanks for making the video, Tom. I like that you're presenting the basics quickly and simply. I'm wanting to get my first lathe, and this type of instruction is going to be a big help when I finally bring one home.
That's good to hear Tom.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks Tom. I've just bought my first lathe and these basics are exactly what I need.
Good to hear!
love the simplicity of your videos and the explanations, especially for us newbies, many thanks, NSW, AUS
That is good to hear because explaining these concepts in a way the newbie can understand is one of my goals.
I think you are spot on with a series of tutorials on machining basics. Keeping them short and concise with indexing on your site would be a great reference resource.
Thanks-
Thanks Fred.
I'll be adding a subcategory on the website for these videos as soon as I figure out how. That will keep them separate from the more advanced stuff and easily accessed.
Excellent tutorial, you don't go too fast and you explain well!
Great videos Tom! Been looking for a reference for my apprentices at work, so they can look stuff while Im not at work. Keep up the great job. Ill refer them to your website as well. Thanks JOE
Wow, amazing. Thanks for the explanation.
You are welcome.Thanks for watching!
This is perfect, just the kind of starter's advice I need. Thank you.
That's good to hear. Thanks for watching!
It's definately worthwhile going back over basics. Little things like finishing by backing out are so obvious to a person that learnt the trade, but can be so easily overlooked by an amateur.
Regards, Matthew
Backing out like that only works for finishing cuts. If you try it with a heavy cut it will chatter because there is so much tool in contact with the work.
Glad you like the videos.
Tom
I enjoy your teaching style therefor i could learn more from you, thanks for the time put into the videos!
Good to hear, Tony.
Thanks for watching!
Tom
Amazing video, I only got to turn things a few times in high school but heck I'm still learning things from these videos.
Thanks, learning new things is always good.
Excellent explanation. This helped me a lot.
Thanks for sharing the PDF file.
Greetings from Brazil.
Thanks for watching
Which website
Say me I need it plz which website????
Thank you very much, Tom. I learn a lot from your videos, whether aimed at a beginner or an amateur, you always seem to teach me something new, even if I'm sure I already know everything there is to know about the subject. :) Keep up the great work!
That's the fun thing about machining, there are so many different ways to accomplish the same task that there is always something new to learn.
Tom
I know Im kind of randomly asking but does anyone know of a good site to watch new tv shows online?
A good short video on only the simple facing operation on the lathe. There are a number of operations machinists conduct on lathes including turning, facing, chamfering, thread cutting, drilling, boring, reaming...etc. Lathes and milling machines are used in many areas of manufacturing as essential basic tools, including woodworking, ceramic parts manufacturing, metal and metal alloys shaping and manufacturing, plastics and elastomers machining.....etc. Therefore, anyone interested in manufacturing technologies for fun, hobby, as an entrepreneur or for their career should definitely familiarize himself/herself with lathe and milling machine basics and probably also with other non-conventional techniques such as laser machining, plasma machining, waterjet.....etc. Even if you are not a machinist, but a consumer of machined parts, I strongly recommend learning the basics of machining operations and CNC and manual equipment, so that when you prepare blueprints or want a product to be designed and want to place orders for parts, you know better what is possible and what is not possible. Also, the equipment a machine shop uses is an important contributor to quality, lead time and price. Knowing something about your supplier's equipment inventory can give you an idea about whether that particular supplier is a good fit for your specific parts or not, provided you understand something about available equipment. You can visit our TH-cam channel by clicking our logo on the left for additional videos on various manufacturing techniques, good instructional and educative subscriptions and to see videos we liked. Thank you Tom for posting videos showing manufacturing processes.
Thank you very much for the "very basic" video...
Tom, thanks a bunch for the videos and help! I am just starting to use a Unimat that I recently got and I know nothing about turning, you videos are the best I have found on the topic. I'm sure you have one on the topic, I just haven't found it yet, my first task it to turn some small pulleys for small toy cranes. I'm planning to use aluminum. Please keep doing the basic stuff for guys like me!
Jim
Jim,
There is one on turning. If you are having trouble finding it, the website, tomstechniques.com, might make it easier.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
thank you, great video
yes that is going good with the QCTP nice video tom
Thank you for the lessons. They are a fantastic help.
Good to hear!
Wow, I know it may be simple to you but these videos are very useful. Hope to see new ones soon.
Simple definitely depends on your point of view.
Gotta clean up the shop before I can start making videos again. It gets out of hand if I don't use it on a regular basis.
Tom
Although a "nice" finish (to the eye) can be obtained by backing the tool out from center, a closer to perfect face can be attained by keeping the feed and speed where it will cut the best as the tool approaches the center of the work. After all, correct feeds and speeds are more than just suggestions.
For instance, some cnc turning software not only suggests the best numbers based on the material, it also increases the spindle speed and decreases the feed rate as the diameter being turned decreases as the tool progresses toward the center. If you do the math, you will see that that the rpm must increase and the feed rate decrease the smaller the diameter, ending when the speed is infinite and the feed rate is 0 at the exact center of the work.
You can see the results when the finished parts are compared side by side. What happens when feed and speed are ignored durring the the facing operation, it becomes obvious that the material is being scrapped and torn away toward the center of the face.
While not a big deal for most operations performed in the home shop, often times a specific surface finish grade on the face will be called out on parts of higher quality, especially in the aerospace industry. Grinding the decreasing diameter face of a thrust bearing surface comes to mind.
Fortunately, the home machinist can approximate a closer ideal speed by using a digital frequency device, when available. Simply increase the spindle speed and decrease the feed as the diameter on the face decreases.
I've actually replaced the single phase motor with three phase motors on a number of machine tools in order to take advantage of the numerous advantages of a VFD and 3/θ power... RPM, starting and braking ramp contours, instantaneous direction change, etc..
Thanks for addressing the basics for the uninformed. :-))
Gee whiz
You act like Tom was making a video for Boeing
Tom...I think this statement applies....
Good basics....good machinist
Great basics.....great machinist
I know your lessons will assist me in heading towards being a GREAT home/hobby machinist
Thanks
Chuck
Thanks Chuck.
Basics are like the foundation of a house. It has to be solid to build anything worthwhile on top of it.
Tom
Thankyou for the video(s)! They are the best on youtube and it really helps seeing it in real time. Turning may be a simple operation but I'm just cautious and like to be sure before I attempt it. Thanks again!
Thanks. It's good to hear that the videos are helping.
Tom
Toms Techniques Faced my part .001 short of desired length today with a perfect finish in 10 mins. Thanks yet again for your help!
rahkshifan99
Excellent.
Need for basic machining... yes PLEASE! (Subscribed)
Thank u!!! this video was so helpful !!! well expllained
Noel Soans
Thanks for watching!
th-cam.com/video/wS_SGKbD5lA/w-d-xo.html
In the 1960"s we were taught to face from the center out. Then apply a flat mill file to the nub left in the center. This would keep the drill bit used in the tailpiece from skipping around.
Enjoy your short videos. Very informative for the novice. Short and on point. You Tube without a lot of ME TUBE. And thanks for no musical background..
Then you should really like the ones that are coming up next. Life has just been too busy to keep up with the tutorials or involved instructional videos, so I've decide to do short videos on machining tips and very basic machining operations. Hope to get to it later this week.
Tom
yes thanks for no 3 min intro and not telling me about the weather.
This helped me getting my QMED thanks
Very useful and helpful sir. Thank you!
Thanks much for the simplest videos. I am training as a machinist and like to learn on my days off too.
Thanks for watching, Shawn
Thanks Tom, and not once did you put a plug in for your tool post manufacture or any other accessory on your lathe.
Now it's just fine to make a video on tool posts or other accessories and mention manufacture names as a reference but "name dropping" gets old fast.
Thanks for you to the point videos and looking forward to a compressive index on your site that I can quickly brush up on for a particular project I would be involved in. Keep up the good work Tom. I really appreciate it.
No plugs from me unless I feel the quality of a tool makes it worthy of one.
I don't have plans for an index, but there is plenty of room to categorize the videos.
Glad you like the site.
Tom
Awesome vid Tom! Exactly what I was looking for. When can we expect to see more vids from you?
Thanks!
I'm currently enjoying my new found retirement, but when the novelty wears off I'll be adding some new vids.
Wow great vid and info thanks for the post
nice and clean job
Amazing dude really incredible
Thanks man
Good video. Very concise, basic, and useful. I'm still learning, and there are some things that may be easy on a large lathe such as yours, but many beginners have hobby type lathes such as my Harbor Freight 9x20. I use a cutting tool with about 80-85 degree angle ground so that it can be used for either turning or facing. I started with aluminum, mild steel, and Delrin plastic, but I've recently done work on cast iron, which is quite different. Perhaps you can make a video about materials. Thanks for your efforts!
I can't comment or demonstrate on a machine that I don't own, but I can say that the practices that I cover in my videos will apply to any machine. It is true that some machines are more rigid than others, so the depth of cut may need to be reduced, but that is all part of learning the capability and limits of your particular machine.
Hey Tom,
Thank you very much for the videos! I'm new to all of this so these videos are such an amazing resource...
If I may I have one quick question. My uncle has been machining his entire life. He questions the part of this video where you extend the bar stock out to the desired finished length before cutting your center hole. He believes that with it wobbling around you wont be in the true center of the part. Could you please elaborate a little further on why we should extend the piece out?
Thanks again. I know your time is valuable!
PK
Patrick,
If you center drill a rod held close to the chuck and then extend it with the intent of supporting it with a center and there is any bow to the rod (there always is), the turned end will be tapered. By center drilling it with the rod extended, the center drill will find the actual center of rotation, regardless of the amount of bow and the part will turn true. Mind you this only applies if you support one end with the chuck and the other with a center. If you intend to turn the rod between centers, then you can center drill with the rod chucked close.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
Thank you so much for that lesson
Thank you for watching, John.
your videos is very helpfull.thank you!!!
+Miroslav Pavišić
Thank you for watching them.
Thank you
Thanks for watching.
great video, thanks for sharing :)
Glad you enjoyed it.
best facing tom
Thank you for this
thanks tom
Great videos. Really confused on one item in facing video. How did you adjust tool height with spindle turning, to re-center the cutter to get the nub? I have an Aloris axa. Thanks!
The tool holders have a thumb wheel to adjust the height of the tool. Just unclamp the holder, adjust the height, and reclamp.
awesome vid, thanks1
I am new at this and tried to grind the hSS tool to the exact angles and then tried to face a metal pipe , 1" dia with .85 wall and the work kept pushing the tool away, didn't cut.. Then I tried a side cut, same thing was very uneven like the work was pushing the cross slide away I could see it move and no metal cutting or curling..any advise? Thx
thanks you Tom,
Thanks for watching!
The Is the coolest thing ever!!
Never thought of facing as cool. Wait until you see threading! :)
Tom
Hello Tom, thanks for another informative video. I like the reference material you're putting on your website. As you suggested, I will print and laminate them for quick reference in the shop. Maybe you could grind a parting tool up for us. Thanks again. Anthony.
Thanks Anthony.
Proper set-up is what makes parting successful more than the grind of the tool. Parting is definitely on my list of basic operations and will be covered.
Tom
Hi tom, just thought I'd share this little hint I learned from clickspring. Use a tailstock centre as to find the correct tool height
yes that's the best way.
Hi Tom. Just wanted to know the name of the tool that cuts the facing. Amazing video. Thank you.
Great stuff as always, Tom! Do you have any success with the jam nuts to lock in the tool heights on your quick-change tool holders? Seems like mine (cheap Chinese, not Aloris) don't stay locked even when they're tight, and then when I want to change the height I have to break out the pliers to get 'em apart. Any suggestions are welcome.
These work fine Rex, although I rarely use the locking feature. I'll lock them down if I'm making something with a lot of tool changes, but mostly they just hang loose.
Tom
Good info! Do you lock or snug down the carriage before facing? My carriage pushes back if I don't. Probably a bad habit but I usually just change the angle of the RH turning bit rather than change to a facing bit.
I don't lock my carriage for facing. If yours is pushing back, make sure you have enough side clearance on the tool.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
basics...You're doing quite a decent job here...!
Thanks Doug
I have a secondary operations lathe (Hardinge DV-59), which is giving me fits. It will turn the diameter of bar stock so that there is not more than .0002: taper over 2 1/2 inches of length. But facing operations? I always get a slight convex shape (about .005" total on a 1" diameter piece. That's pretty pathetic, and nothing I have tried seems to work. ... The DV-59 doesn't have a saddle and lead screw. Just a light duty cross slide and compound. You set the compound to 90 degrees by doing successive test cuts. and I have done that. The gibs are all tight. Can't feel any play in the cross slide or compound. My tool rest is a substantial Dorian too. It is tight.
Any ideas?
Convex or conical? If it's conical, the tool is moving on an angle. If it convex, you make have a tool geometry issue, i.e. not enough clearance under the cuttin edge. All that aside, if the lathe has a cross slide, then that is what you should be using to face. The compound rest is intended for angled cuts.
Tom
vaya es la primera vez que veo un chuck universal de 06 garras .. buen video
I'm new at this I just purchased a new lathe mill combo I have used a lathe before I wish I had this info years ago
nice video helpful for me as a mech engineering student
and hey can you make a single video in which all the basic operation are involved
its a request plzzz do that
Thank you
Thank you sir lagthe machine facing working nice expelling
Sir, What kind of lubricant do you used after you machined a workpiece? I mean, so that the workpiece remain shiny and not rusty when you put it off the lathe and set aside. Maybe you might have an idea on what kind of oil they put on. Thanks
Ordinary motor oil will keep parts rust free, but if you don't want oily parts, they can be gun blued or blackened.
Way to go Mr T. Nice! What type of chuck are you using? Are you going to do a quick, down & dirty centering the part in the chuck? Not all of us use 3-jaw chucks. Bless your unselfish tips.
Richard,
The chuck is a six jaw Buck chuck and centers the stock very well. If you don't have a self centering chuck, you should seriously look into one. The time it takes to center the work every time really adds up and would be much better spent making chips.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
Nice lathe. I use a 4 Jaw chuck. What is the benefit of a 6 jaw chuck other than the extra 2 contact jaws Also do you have to manually set-up the chuck or is it self centering?
+valveman12
The advantage of the extra two jaws is excellent concentricity, nearly as good as a collet. It is self centering.
Tom
Toms Techniques Thanks Tom. Super nice Lathe.
Well done as usual! Tom, What is the plastic pipe behind the lathe wrapped with
wire?
Thanks Burt.
The plastic pipe is a PVC pneumatic potato cannon and it's wrapped with screen and wire for safety in case the pipe fails under pressure.
Tom
Tom i have a question for you, i have a 12 in. Commercial atlas with under drive i am bring back to life with a few modern updates, what size quick change tool post set up would best sute this lathe ?
Hi Tony,
Aloris recommends an AXA tool post for that particular lathe. There is a chart in their catalog if you are interested.
Tom
Hey Tom! Good to see your video. I was looking at a lathe the other day and asked about the run out. It was an older Southbend 10", the fellow selling it said it was a 5 thousandth at about 1' from the chuck. What do you think?
The type of runout he's referring to is from wear in the chuck jaws, not the spindle. Runout on the spindle itself for an old South Bend should be on the order of a few tenths, both radially and axially.
Tom, I faced a 3/4" x 7" dia plate on one side. I need to flip it around to face the other side and I need to be at 1/2" when done. The depth of the jaws are .625. How do I space the plate out from the chuck face while keeping the already faced surface perfectly parallel with the chuck face? Thanks, I have learned a lot from you videos.
+Ken Hoekstra
Hi Ken,
You just need some 1/4" spacers between the machined face and the jaws. Dowel pins or ground tool bits work well. Be sure to tap the part down on them with a hammer. There are also three legged spacers called spiders that work well for that, but individual spacers will accomplish the same thing, they just aren't as convenient.
Tom
hey tom,
your videos are pretty awesome,can u describe what are ORS tool designations plz,
i read on the book,but unable understand about the reference planes.
thank you
Sovan Pradhan
Hey Sovan,
I haven't studied cutting tool theory since college in the 70's, so I had to brush up on it a bit. :)
ORS or orthogonal rake system is a method of identifying various angles in tool geometry. It consists of three planes; the reference plane (horizontal), the cutting plane (vertical plane aligned with the cutting edge) and the orthogonal plane (vertical plane that is perpendicular to the cutting plane. Here is a pretty good video illustrating these three planes:
th-cam.com/video/BHEYrGrvp6U/w-d-xo.html
If you have any other questions, feel free to contact me through my website, tomstechniques.com.
Hope this helps.
Tom
Toms Techniques thanks a lot sir
Can the facing tool be used for turning as well?
How do you centre the cutting tool on the steel?
i wish all my machining was this simple.
+userwl2850
Machining a part, regardless of its complexity, is just a series of simple operations like this. Master them and you can machine anything.
+Toms Techniques yes, i agree tom. when facing like this its best to have the tool below centre as if its above its easy to break the cutting edge. if you have time take a look at the things i machine on my channel.
+userwl2850
Yes, a carbide tool can chip if it is above center, but setting it below center will leave a nib.
I'll check out your site.
Tom
It's very easy... Thank uuuu...
Hi Tom you have some great videos, I was wondering of you plan to do more videos on threading like tapered metric pipe and two start thanks againg for all your help
I am planning to do videos on 2 start threads and pipe threads, but not metric. I don't have metric change gears for my lathe.
Glad you are enjoying the videos.
Tom
sir thanks for this video
well explained, didnt know you could use the cutting tool in both cutting directions when facing, why does facing from the inside dia to outside dia give a better finish than from the outside dia to inside dia?
That's a good question Gary and I'm not sure that I know for sure. It's just one of those things that you figure out by doing. It may be that the tool deflects more when feeding out than in, thus reducing the relative angle of the tool to the work.
Tom
thanks for that
regards
gary
It's because the top rake angle is wrong for doing a face cut. I.E. there is none.. The tool in video has been ground with a positive rake for turning OD. Using the tool shown the cuttings are rubbing against the face as the cut proceeds to centre. Grinding a compound rake takes the cuttings away from the machined face.
Also a small rad at point facilitates ease of improved finish.😋
Great close up I like that (all your videos that I have watched so for are AWESOME) but is the width of the chip that comes peeling off be a indicator of how much of the cutting surface is actually contacting the work? or is that a feed rate type of thing? IDK I might be on the wrong train of thought on that one not sure what made me think that lol I have trouble sometimes when using just the very tip for some reason I just thought I would toss that out there
Thanks for all your video work it really helps
Camera angles are the toughest thing to get right when making videos. Hopefully you can see what's going on.
The width of the chip is a function of depth of cut and tool angle, the thickness is a function of feed. Take heavier cuts feeding in and light, finish cuts feeding out for the best results.
Tom
Hi Tom... I just got my first lathe. It will run CC, but only hums when I use the reverse switch. It is a TIDA TD-4A
I'm not sure what controls do what. Got any ideas.....
Great job you are doing.... I hope you are being rewarded in some manner.
+Mr BreakRAK
I assume it's a used lathe, so it's possible that one of the contacts on the reversing switch is burned out. Of course if it's used, anything is possible. Your best bet would be to find a wiring diagram for the lathe and start tracing wires. Also take a look at the motor nameplate and make sure it is reversible.
I do get occasional donations on my website and something from the ads here on YT, but that really not the point of the videos. I'm just trying to pass on some of the knowledge I've picked up over the years so it doesn't end up getting lost.
Tom
+Toms Techniques
Thanks Tom... my own need & curiosity led me to learn how to get the saddle feed going back & forth. I think I will try to test the cross slide feed today. I will look into the motor info. Thanks much for your reply.
You & I will become good friends... Charley Bond
Understood; and a well explained video. As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~ Newbie
PS: this may be my “tagline” until I have a question?
sir,
i am saravanan from chennai, i have seen your videos quite a long time , its are amazing
Now i am facing a issue in FACE TURNING PROCESS,
we are the manufacture of engine valves, in valves there is face turning,
while doing a process , nearing to the centre there is concentric feed line are forming stil we are opearting at 0.2mm/min feed rate with rpm 1400
we aare using kenna metal SNMG insert , life is 100 nos
please suggest us the solution , it should increase the feed to 0.3mm/min and to increase insert life
I'm pretty sure I helped inspired basic machine videos. My first try at anything was the threading series. I finally stumbled thru it lol. This series will be a HUGE help to me personally and many others. Thank you!! Tom.......do you know if it's possible to cut a 4" circle out of 4" x1/2" thick flat bar on a lathe? I had thoughts of welding a 1" round to the blank to hold it in the chuck but after that i'm lost. I thought about coming in on the face but then chunks would fly off. I don't want to buy 4" round stock and I don't have a bandsaw or a plasma cutter.
I realize I should probably join a forum for off-topic questions I just haven't got around to it yet. Looking forward to the rest of this series.
Bad Dog
Check out metalworkingfun.com.
Trying to cut the corner off from the face (trepanning) will likely end badly. It would be better to turn them off a little at a time from the outside.
Tom's Techniques
That's kinda what I was thinking thanks. I also thought that corners would just break the bit flying at it from the front side but have never tried it. I'll probably cut a octagon on it first on a saw. Oh and thanks for the website I will def check that out.
Tom, thanks for the vidoes and projects. I'm looking forward to more projects. The rest of the metal I need to make your first project should arrive tomorrow.
It looks to me like the tools is held in the tool holder with a slight angle. About 15-25 degrees? I assume this is to provide more clearance when facing when a part is held in a center?
The 10º-15º angle provides clearance between the side of the tool and the end of the stock. The end cutting edge should be the only part of the tool that is cutting when feeding the tool in. The side cutting edge will cut when feeding out for a finishing cut. Clearance for the center is that optional 45º angle on the right side.
Tom
Tom's Techniques
I'm sorry I was unclear. Normally when I place a tool in a QC tool holder I put it firmly against the back so that the shank of the tool is parallel to the side of the tool holder. In this video it looks to me like the tool is placed in the tool holder at an angle.
Is this offset in the toolholder to provide clearence between the tool post/tool holder and the work?
I really enjoy how clear you are about the angles of the actual tool and how the tool is presented to the work. Being very new to machining your videos and website are my daily go to for "what's new to learn!"
Thank you.
ctjctj2
Tom, after re-watching this I had the same question. It appears you angle a facing tool in the holder, but leave your turning tools registered against the inside face of the tool holder.
Is that so you can always leave your toolpost square to the work, and just pop in/out turning/facing tools without adjusting the toolpost angle? (I note that you still adjusted the angle in this video)
Do you have any packing in there or are you just depending on the grub screw to hold the tool in place?
Thanks!
Rex,
The facing tool is at such a shallow angle that you can angle it in the holder if you like, or just rotate the post. Either way is fine. The holder has four screws to clamp the bit but two are more than adequate to hold the tool, no spacers are necessary.
Tom
It looks like TH-cam pulled your video regarding a lathe raffle
Can you advise how to enter via email?
BenQ
Nice video and web sight.
Fyi the web sight video links and contact page appear broken.
Oh yes, Wonder if I could request a sequel. How to face both ends parallel when the part is to thin to simply flip on the scroll chuck jaws and cannot be undercut and done between centers....
Great stuff
Thanks
Thanks Mike.
I am aware of the contact page, but everything else seems to work. The website is definitely outdated and needs to be rebuilt. I'll probably have my son help do it when I get around to making videos again.
You can use parallels between a thin part and the chuck body to get the two sides parallel, but don't forget to remove them before turning the lathe on!
Tom
thanks
Hi Tom,
From the video it sounds like this operation at least is quiet enough to talk over. Is that really the case or did you have a separate microphone?
I ask because I'm considering a lathe in order to get into some steam-related projects, but am currently stuck in an apartment...
Thanks much.
I honestly don't remember if this was the camera mic or a lapel mic. Either way, this lathe is very quiet. The phase converter in the background makes much more noise.
Tom
ncraven1906 ةأغ
Woah, engineering student doing level 3 engineering and I'm just wondering, could you have used a 3 jaw chuck or did you use 6 (I think) jaws due to the diameter of the bar. Also was this B.D.S.M or something else?- thanks
I actually don't own a three jaw chuck because a six jaw is a better option they are more concentric and less apt to mar the work. Not sure what you are asking in the second part.
Tom
Toms Techniques ah okay. The second part was basically asking what material you were machining.