Thanks! This old retired guy is just now moving to laser engravers from traditional woodworking. Watching you set your chiller's parameters saved me a ton of head scratching!
Like you I needed to upgrade from my ice bath system. I just received my CW-5200 and to be safe I searched and found this video. So glad I did. I would have left F3 set to 01 and gone mad wondering why the temps weren't coming down. Thanks for very clear instructions.
Thanks for your great video.. Helpful it was!!! The steps were totally understandable unlike the manual that came with the 5200 chiller! Keep up the good work mate.
Hi, goodday.....a very clear explanation video. I followed the instructions and reset hwvr the temp goes to 21 then fluctuates between 21.5 and 21.9 although it was set for 18. How to correct. Thanks.
Matt, I have a 100 watt Chinese laser. It looks like yours. What kind of numbers should I see on a mA meter. I'm getting only 32 at max settings. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike
Hi Mike, For my 80W laser the Max current is approx 28mA for your 100W laser the Max working current should be no more than 30mA. Maybe check out this website for more info. efrlaser.com/2-co2-laser-tube/200477/ Note: if you run the laser regularly at max power then you will reduce the lifespan of the tube, only set power to suit the material you are cutting. I found that I was cutting at 25mA for a job that only required 16mA this was achieved easily by slowing down the cut speed and reducing the power.
Sir, do we have to use distilled water?do we have to connect the alarm to the controller?what was the liquid name your using to controll bacteria growth
Say, when you set your chiller to 15C, how far does it cool down until it switches off the fans ? Mine cools from 15.5 (15C + 0.5C Hysteresis) to 15C (LED D2 on), where it switches into isolation mode (LED D2 off), engages the bypass solenoid (loud hiss), and keeps running until it hits 13.9C then it switches the compressor and fan off (D2 blink).... that can take up to 10minutes at times. Does yours do that too ? There appear to be vast differences in the way these devices use the bypass valve, some just engage it for a few seconds mine has it on for very long.
No the units I have don't appear to behave the way yours is in your explanation. if it is a genuine s&a chiller they have good customer service you could email them for advice . Sorry I am not a refrigeration technician.
@@MWLaser Thanks. That's weird. I did in fact figure out why it did this, and the answer is: to get more life out of the compressor. I've made a short vid about that. The bypass valve on mine seems to have an issue though, so I'll probably add a switch to disable it. Im planning to make a better thermostat for it sometimes soon.
Hello mate! I know this is an old post but mine seems to behave the way yours did.I set the low temp..but it cools below that by 1 degree or so..then there is a hissing sounding you explained..then it rises up to the a tual temp I selected then cycles on and off to keep that temp like normal
Hi Matt. My laser tube cracked during a hard frost 2 nights ago. I has an air cooled chiller and no antifreeze in water. Not a good idea. I have purchased a CV5200 so hopefully this will prevent laser tube cracking again. I presume you need to keep the chiller on the whole time to maintain temperature. Ps I really like your videos 👍
The CW5200 will help with chilling of water in hotter climates over the CW3000 air cooled units. However it will not prevent the water from freezing during a hard frost. (Thankfully we do not have that issue here in Australia). It is recommended to use some form of antifreeze in cold climates, however I cannot provide more information on the type or brand of antifreeze to use due to not having experience with this.
Hello, hope you see this! Help please. I have just bought 130W with 5250 chiller. The laser will run with chiller connected via alarm wire and turned off but gets water error message on Ruida when powered on. They have used 2 same color wires on alarm wire. I think we hhave decided the issue might be mis wiring at factory BUT, the wires are same color and its a 2 wire plug tat laser o 3 wires at chiller. The chiller manuals identifies as H1 as Red, H2 as Green, and H3 as Black. I have marked my 2 yellow alarm wires as 1 and 2. They had yellow wire 1 on red and yellow wire 2 on black, green ?? ground?? Is there anyway you can confirm that green is not connected to the yellow alrm wires? Then its just a matter of reveresing them, which I actually think I tried and it still failed. I am thinking the green wire ought to be connected to one of my yellow alarm wires???
G'day, unfortunately I'm not going to be the best to help you with this wiring support query. I am not familiar with your machine and I cannot compare to my machine as I do not have connection for the alarm wire plug on my 80w laser I run it without and everything is functioning fine (maybe you could try the same). If your current 130W laser has a built in water protection then you will not require the 3 wire cable connected. The alarms will still sound on the chiller without connection to the laser, and your laser will still alert you if the built in system has a problem. You can email me using the address in the video description if you'd like to follow up further. Cheers Matt
I wish there was a "low water" alarm. I burned out a laser tube because of a slow, small, water leak. The water was still flowing -- and the sensor did not set off an alarm -- but there wasn't enough water in the system to keep the tube cool. Also, I used to have a CW-3000 and the water level gauge was on the FRONT of the unit, but for some reason with these CW-5200's, the water level is inconveniently situated in the BACK of the unit.
Yes it would be better if the water gauge was on the front and more visible. I monitor all water daily to check for leaks and water level, part of my start up process. Cheers Matt
Hi Matt! I love tour work and videos! I have the same cw5000 chilleer but when i start the chilleer the light normal is Orange, no Green and the water don't run. You know what i have to do? Thanks so much!
Excellent video as always, Matt! I have set my chiller settings as you have suggested above, but I would also like to set a High Temperature Alarm, which I believe is setting/code F4. The setting only goes from 1-20, but when I start the chiller, the water temperature is usually around 22-23-degrees C, which is close to my room temperature. If I set the High Temperature Alarm to 20, will it alarm right when I turn it on until it cools at or below 20? Ideally, I think I would like to set it to something like 23-degrees C. While this is warmer than the tube should run, at least I'll be warned before it goes any higher. Cheers!
I believe the F4 over temp alarm is the degrees over the max allowed temperature set at F8. For example if you set your F8 Max Temp to 20 deg and F4 at 5 deg then it will alarm at (20+5) = 25 Deg
Have you figured out how to wire the water flow alarm output from the chiller to the laser, to prevent operation without water flow? My machine has a protection sensors in the water circut that has to be switched by water flow, otherwise it gives an error message on my controller, and prevents you from running the laser without water circulating. I recently bought a cw5000 and shortly after, this sensor failed. I've since bypassed the sensor. Before i got the replacement sensor in, i messed up and ruined a tube...today actually..by forgetting to turn chiller back on 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ it occurs to me though, that it would be best to use the chillers own alarm to send this signal to the laser controller. It's got a port for it and everything on the back of the chiller, however the manual i have doesn't cover this well. Any ideas? Success? I can definitely message you more info on it if you want, but it's apparent you know more than me and I'm looking for help. Thank you either way. Your vids calm the nerves when undergoing upgrades and fixes.
Happy to help, send me the details you have and the controller you're using and I will get you the required information Cheers Matt matt@mwlaser.com.au
OK got my chiller today and none of my controls are like yours. The set button is on top not underneath like yours. I can set the parameters by just holding down the set button for 6 seconds I set F3 to 0 when I go to F9 and press set it does not show the temp it only shows 0 - 10 i am lost as to what is upper limit and lower limit. I am following you on a computer right next to the unit and am stuck. Cannot use this because Im not sure which temp on the display is which
Is the chiller a genuine S&A chiller or a clone/generic version? If the control thermostat component is different to what is shown in the video then the menu system and features will vary. In some cases manufacturers put a menu sticker on the top of the chiller unit, maybe check that it may help. You can email images and questions to matt@mwlaser.com.au Cheers
@@MWLaser Yep that is exactly what was wrong. This is a B&H model. I didnt even know there was a difference. I have kinda figured out how to set the temps by long pressing the SET button. I have set it to 19.5 C the ambient temp is 19.5 the chiller is running and showing 18.5c I never set that and cant figure why that number is showing and the chiller is constantly running
Whats the lowest possible temp you can set on the display? i need to get into the sub C range. Will this unit allow to set say -10c or -20c for example? Do you know what any of the internals are made of? is it stainless steel tank or plumbing? Does the water ever rust or get contaminated from the pump or cooler internally? Great video!!!
@@MWLaser Thanks for the reply!!!! I read through all the information this link provided but I was unable to find the info I seek. It says the accuracy of temp + or - 0.3C but it doesn't say the max lowest temp possible. Can you look at your unit and see how low of a temp setting you can input on the display? I am sorry to bother you on this but i hate to buy this unit to find out it wont work for my application. I need to go below 0C for my application.
Hi Mike, I'd be happy to help. TH-cam comments are not the easiest place to provide support. Use email or this Facebook group, RDWORKS Community Support facebook.com/groups/900528680076062/ Cheers Matt
hi matt.... where i am here in the UK temperatures range between -3 Celsius in winter to around +30 Celsius in summer ... i have an 80W laser...what would you recommend i set the constant temperature at on my 5200? kind regards tony
Compressor power, Nominal cooling capacity, Pump power, Max. pump pressure & flow and so on. Full specs of each can be found on the teyuchiller . com website In summary the CW5200 has better cooling capabilities over the CW5000
That is a question you should ask them. The machines do have IEC connections on the unit, so you could replace easily in the UK if required. I only import 220V units to Australia, and the plug is suitable for our requirements. I'm unsure of UK imports. Cheers Matt
Not sure what you mean. However the correct way to install is Outlet from Chiller to Inlet of Laser.... then Outlet from Laser to Inlet of Chiller, as I have demonstrated in the video. This way the water flows in the correct direction and if air is in the laser tube it will escape from the laser tube outlet as it is higher than the inlet. if water flows in the wrong direction air can get trapped in the laser tube. Cheers Matt
(1) Is there much of a difference between a CW-5000 and a CW-5200 (it seems that "CW-" chillers can be made by various manufacturers using the same "CW-" designations)? (2) What about additives to the distilled water like "Royal Purple ice" (coolant) and/or "EasyCare FounTec Algaecide and Clarifier" (instead of just bleach)?
the CW5200 has a slightly higher cooling capability to the 5000, but essentially they are very similar units. the 5000 is the minimum I recommend and is suitable for all lasers up to approx 100W. if you intend to use for long periods of laser cutting time per job or you have a high wattage tube then choose the CW5200 or larger. I don't use anti freeze as I live in Australia, so not likely to have a freezing problem, I believe it is necessary in some climates, however I cannot recommend a brand or type. Also I don't add any coolants or additives other than bleach. the purpose of the bleach is to minimise algae growth or sludge. if once added the system is sealed and circulating, you shouldn't have algae growth as it is not like aquarium water which is open to environment where organisms can enter. (I have had good results with using bleach only) Hope this answers your question Cheers Matt
Hi Matt I am trying to set up my new cw5000 chiller and followed your instruction ,which seemed quite good and easy ,But as I pressed arrow keys and switched on at the same time PP came up instead of rF So could go no further can you explain why Many thanks Eddy
Hi, I have had this question from someone else a while ago, and there is no reference to this in the manual, So I contacted S&A the manufacturer, about this and the only response I got was "our chiller won't display PP, maybe is 8.88, but we are not sure at this moment" They will only provide further support with a barcode or serial number. My suggestion is the PP=Password Protected. But I do not have a solution for you other than contact Manufacturer support. If you do find out let us know. Cheers Matt
Matts Workshop Hi Matt I sent you a message last (not sure if you received it so will send again) Have been in contact with manufacturers about problem Received email last night as follows (Adjust the parameters F10 and F11 to 1 and press reset key to save) I was not to sure how to do this so asked for a more detailed step by step Had email back as follows ( press the set key for 5. seconds,then F0 appears .Adjust it to F10 and. F11 with up and down arrows key. O.Continue to connect the set key then 0 appears and 0 is adjusted. to 1) Not sure about last statement (Continue to connect the set key) Sorry if I seem still unsure ,but want to get it correct ,and will ask if I am not happy Regards Eddy (Sorry to be a pain )
My Chillers are turned on in the morning and off overnight. If you live in a climate where temps are likely to freeze water, then keep chiller in an environment where water temp stays fluid and you may find it necessary to have continuous water flow.
Great job and your work is fantastic. Do you do most of your designs on Coreldraw? I really would like to pick your brain a little, do you have a facebook page?
I do not use Corel much at all - I use LightBurn Software for most of my work, but I am not doing photos and such at the moment. My Facebook page link is in the Video Description.
you would be better off using DI water and biocide/copper sulphate, that is what we use in the PC water cooling world ;-) no algae and no corrosion, bleach will cause issues with the tubing and fittings....
G'day. The E4 alarm is indicating that there is a room temperature sensor failure. The first thing you could try is check that the sensor connection has not come loose from the back of the control panel/unit (You would need to open machine to do this so only do if you are confident and the power is removed). If after checking connections and re-testing, the alarm is still present the sensor will need to be replaced I would suggest getting in contact with the manufacturer of your unit for parts and support. You could also try searching the internet forums for more information and assistance. Cheers Matt
@@MWLaser Thank you for replying, i've already checked the connection and the sensor it has no problem. i'm thinking if there is a way to check the problem on the board or somehow reinstall the software.
@@khachigkavafian6289 I hope you can work it out, I presume you have you tried a factory reset of the controller. I do not think I will be able to assist further, sorry. I think you may need to contact your supplier. Matt.
Thanks! This old retired guy is just now moving to laser engravers from traditional woodworking. Watching you set your chiller's parameters saved me a ton of head scratching!
Like you I needed to upgrade from my ice bath system. I just received my CW-5200 and to be safe I searched and found this video. So glad I did. I would have left F3 set to 01 and gone mad wondering why the temps weren't coming down. Thanks for very clear instructions.
I know this comment is very delayed feedback, but you’ve helped me tremendously with this, so I really really appreciate it! Thanks!
Ditto!
Awesome, thanks Matt. I followed along with your video and it was easy. Another missing manual put together by helpful people on TH-cam.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback
I'm pretty sure I NEVER would have figured this out on my own. Thanks for the video. It was VERY helpful.
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much for this video! I never would have figured this out with the manual came with.
You are welcome!
Matt, this was SO helpful, greatly appreciated.
Awesome video! Very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to put this together! :)
I would never have figured this out without your vid - thank you!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for your great video.. Helpful it was!!! The steps were totally understandable unlike the manual that came with the 5200 chiller! Keep up the good work mate.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback
I bought the device and wanted to know how to make the change you made. Your tutorial is excellent and helped me. Thank you !!
Glad it helped
Thank You! Much easier than other videos I've watched.
Thank you
Thanks Matt, you’re a legend
you're welcome
Thanks for the explanation on setting the perimeters for the chiller. now I feel good to do mine. Thanks!
Thanks Tim, I'm glad I could help. Cheers Matt
Hi, goodday.....a very clear explanation video. I followed the instructions and reset hwvr the temp goes to 21 then fluctuates between 21.5 and 21.9 although it was set for 18. How to correct. Thanks.
Thanks a lot, can you share which pump I should buy ,I have k40 Monoport
Where did you conect the alarm cable ?
I have a 60w red/black machine, and doesnt have the conection for the chiller alarm
Thank you ,, it was a real help to set up mine ,, the manual was just a pain ,,
Glad it helped
merci infiniment pour cette vidéo, j'ai finalement réussi la programmation .😃
Hi thank you for your help. I have one question my compressor is became hot. How can i control time or temperature for compressor thank you so much
Simple and to the point, made it easy to setup my cooler. Thanks.
Glad it helped!
Matt, I have a 100 watt Chinese laser. It looks like yours. What kind of numbers should I see on a mA meter. I'm getting only 32 at max settings. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike
Hi Mike, For my 80W laser the Max current is approx 28mA for your 100W laser the Max working current should be no more than 30mA. Maybe check out this website for more info. efrlaser.com/2-co2-laser-tube/200477/
Note: if you run the laser regularly at max power then you will reduce the lifespan of the tube, only set power to suit the material you are cutting. I found that I was cutting at 25mA for a job that only required 16mA this was achieved easily by slowing down the cut speed and reducing the power.
Hi, can this chiller warm up water ? Or just cooling? Thank you
from Portugal, Tanks for help!
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback
Thank you for this! The manual that came with my unit, and that I found online, explained NONE of this info.
You are welcome!
just ordered one of these ..once again a great video mate !
Awesome! Thank you!
Sir, do we have to use distilled water?do we have to connect the alarm to the controller?what was the liquid name your using to controll bacteria growth
Cool videos thanks/ been much help ! Do you know why the yellow light on my power supply stays on even when i have the water switch disabled ?
What power supply are you referring to? The Laser PSU? if so on most Laser PSUs the Yellow light indicates power ON not a water error.
Thank you Sir, this was aa big help!
Do you factor in dew point when choosing a temperature? I've heard of people running their lasers too cold and they blow the tube with condensation.
Thank you sir. Your channel has been invaluable!
Most welcome!
If I were to theoretically attach the chiller to a tub of water, how cold can it get the water?
Say, when you set your chiller to 15C, how far does it cool down until it switches off the fans ? Mine cools from 15.5 (15C + 0.5C Hysteresis) to 15C (LED D2 on), where it switches into isolation mode (LED D2 off), engages the bypass solenoid (loud hiss), and keeps running until it hits 13.9C then it switches the compressor and fan off (D2 blink).... that can take up to 10minutes at times.
Does yours do that too ?
There appear to be vast differences in the way these devices use the bypass valve, some just engage it for a few seconds mine has it on for very long.
No the units I have don't appear to behave the way yours is in your explanation.
if it is a genuine s&a chiller they have good customer service you could email them for advice . Sorry I am not a refrigeration technician.
@@MWLaser Thanks. That's weird. I did in fact figure out why it did this, and the answer is: to get more life out of the compressor. I've made a short vid about that.
The bypass valve on mine seems to have an issue though, so I'll probably add a switch to disable it. Im planning to make a better thermostat for it sometimes soon.
Hello mate! I know this is an old post but mine seems to behave the way yours did.I set the low temp..but it cools below that by 1 degree or so..then there is a hissing sounding you explained..then it rises up to the a tual temp I selected then cycles on and off to keep that temp like normal
i'm from indonesia sir......thank you so much
Great job! Matt, thank you very much.
Thanks
What is difference between F8 and F0?
Matt, what is the best tubing to use on the chiller? I see yours looks like it has reinforced braiding in it and what is the tubing size? Thanks
silicone tubing is fine.
Great video the best I've seen thx so much
Great - Thanks
For my Omtech cw-5200 to get to the menu power it off then back on. Let the display flash twice then press and hold up and set at the same time
Super helpful thanks!!!!!
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback
Hi Matt. My laser tube cracked during a hard frost 2 nights ago. I has an air cooled chiller and no antifreeze in water. Not a good idea. I have purchased a CV5200 so hopefully this will prevent laser tube cracking again. I presume you need to keep the chiller on the whole time to maintain temperature. Ps I really like your videos 👍
The CW5200 will help with chilling of water in hotter climates over the CW3000 air cooled units. However it will not prevent the water from freezing during a hard frost. (Thankfully we do not have that issue here in Australia). It is recommended to use some form of antifreeze in cold climates, however I cannot provide more information on the type or brand of antifreeze to use due to not having experience with this.
Super Helpful Video!!
Glad it was helpful!
Hello, hope you see this! Help please. I have just bought 130W with 5250 chiller. The laser will run with chiller connected via alarm wire and turned off but gets water error message on Ruida when powered on. They have used 2 same color wires on alarm wire. I think we hhave decided the issue might be mis wiring at factory BUT, the wires are same color and its a 2 wire plug tat laser o 3 wires at chiller. The chiller manuals identifies as H1 as Red, H2 as Green, and H3 as Black. I have marked my 2 yellow alarm wires as 1 and 2. They had yellow wire 1 on red and yellow wire 2 on black, green ?? ground?? Is there anyway you can confirm that green is not connected to the yellow alrm wires? Then its just a matter of reveresing them, which I actually think I tried and it still failed. I am thinking the green wire ought to be connected to one of my yellow alarm wires???
G'day,
unfortunately I'm not going to be the best to help you with this wiring support query. I am not familiar with your machine and I cannot compare to my machine as I do not have connection for the alarm wire plug on my 80w laser I run it without and everything is functioning fine (maybe you could try the same).
If your current 130W laser has a built in water protection then you will not require the 3 wire cable connected. The alarms will still sound on the chiller without connection to the laser, and your laser will still alert you if the built in system has a problem.
You can email me using the address in the video description if you'd like to follow up further.
Cheers Matt
I wish there was a "low water" alarm. I burned out a laser tube because of a slow, small, water leak. The water was still flowing -- and the sensor did not set off an alarm -- but there wasn't enough water in the system to keep the tube cool.
Also, I used to have a CW-3000 and the water level gauge was on the FRONT of the unit, but for some reason with these CW-5200's, the water level is inconveniently situated in the BACK of the unit.
Yes it would be better if the water gauge was on the front and more visible. I monitor all water daily to check for leaks and water level, part of my start up process.
Cheers Matt
Hi Matt!
I love tour work and videos!
I have the same cw5000 chilleer but when i start the chilleer the light normal is Orange, no Green and the water don't run. You know what i have to do?
Thanks so much!
Contact your supplier for support
Can I do this without it being hooked up to the laser? So that when I do hook it up to the laser it’s all ready to go
You can if you fill with water, and have water outlet hose linked back to water inlet port.
Excellent video as always, Matt! I have set my chiller settings as you have suggested above, but I would also like to set a High Temperature Alarm, which I believe is setting/code F4. The setting only goes from 1-20, but when I start the chiller, the water temperature is usually around 22-23-degrees C, which is close to my room temperature.
If I set the High Temperature Alarm to 20, will it alarm right when I turn it on until it cools at or below 20? Ideally, I think I would like to set it to something like 23-degrees C. While this is warmer than the tube should run, at least I'll be warned before it goes any higher. Cheers!
I believe the F4 over temp alarm is the degrees over the max allowed temperature set at F8. For example if you set your F8 Max Temp to 20 deg and F4 at 5 deg then it will alarm at (20+5) = 25 Deg
Great video, thank you!!!
Glad you liked it!
Have you figured out how to wire the water flow alarm output from the chiller to the laser, to prevent operation without water flow?
My machine has a protection sensors in the water circut that has to be switched by water flow, otherwise it gives an error message on my controller, and prevents you from running the laser without water circulating. I recently bought a cw5000 and shortly after, this sensor failed. I've since bypassed the sensor. Before i got the replacement sensor in, i messed up and ruined a tube...today actually..by forgetting to turn chiller back on 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ it occurs to me though, that it would be best to use the chillers own alarm to send this signal to the laser controller. It's got a port for it and everything on the back of the chiller, however the manual i have doesn't cover this well. Any ideas? Success? I can definitely message you more info on it if you want, but it's apparent you know more than me and I'm looking for help.
Thank you either way. Your vids calm the nerves when undergoing upgrades and fixes.
Happy to help, send me the details you have and the controller you're using and I will get you the required information
Cheers Matt
matt@mwlaser.com.au
Great tutorial, thank you. Quick question, so what is ideal temperature to set on the ciller? My room temperature is pretty hot around 33C
I generally recommend between 14 and 24 Deg C.
@@MWLaser thank you for the recomendation
Do i need to use a Water pump with The chiller?
no it has built in pump
OK got my chiller today and none of my controls are like yours. The set button is on top not underneath like yours.
I can set the parameters by just holding down the set button for 6 seconds
I set F3 to 0
when I go to F9 and press set it does not show the temp it only shows 0 - 10
i am lost as to what is upper limit and lower limit. I am following you on a computer right next to the unit and am stuck.
Cannot use this because Im not sure which temp on the display is which
Is the chiller a genuine S&A chiller or a clone/generic version? If the control thermostat component is different to what is shown in the video then the menu system and features will vary. In some cases manufacturers put a menu sticker on the top of the chiller unit, maybe check that it may help. You can email images and questions to matt@mwlaser.com.au Cheers
@@MWLaser Yep that is exactly what was wrong. This is a B&H model. I didnt even know there was a difference.
I have kinda figured out how to set the temps by long pressing the SET button. I have set it to 19.5 C the ambient temp is 19.5
the chiller is running and showing 18.5c I never set that and cant figure why that number is showing and the chiller is constantly running
What did you add along with distilled water?
2 cap full's of bleach.
Whats the lowest possible temp you can set on the display? i need to get into the sub C range. Will this unit allow to set say -10c or -20c for example? Do you know what any of the internals are made of? is it stainless steel tank or plumbing? Does the water ever rust or get contaminated from the pump or cooler internally? Great video!!!
Thanks - You should be able to find the answers to your questions here www.teyuchiller.com/co2-laser-tube-water-chillers_p31.html
@@MWLaser Thanks for the reply!!!! I read through all the information this link provided but I was unable to find the info I seek. It says the accuracy of temp + or - 0.3C but it doesn't say the max lowest temp possible. Can you look at your unit and see how low of a temp setting you can input on the display? I am sorry to bother you on this but i hate to buy this unit to find out it wont work for my application. I need to go below 0C for my application.
Temp possible is +1 to +40 deg C. this chiller would not be suitable for sub zero temperatures
@@MWLaser Thanks the what I needed!
Hello! So just to confirm you could set down to 1°c? I have read that minimum is 5°c?
Great video, how low does this cooler can reach? I'm thinking around 7-8 oc.
The manual states that users can adjust the water temperature between 5 and 30 Deg C
Need some help. My chiller is not working. Normal light is not getting on and alarm light is on and buzzer is ringing all the time. Kindly help me
can you email matt@mwlaser.com.au with a video of you setup / images of your chiller Cheers Matt
I inputted the correct settings shown in video and saved the settings but my temperature is going up.
for support contact supplier, or I can arrange support (fee) by contacting me via email matt@mwlaser.com.au
Thanks for the Video!!
Cw5200AH 220V 50HZ
Cw5200BH 220V 60HZ
Cw5202AH 220V 50HZ
I see three options from the website, which one is your one?
I have both 5200 & 5202 AH 220V
Can you help me with deleting a layer in RD Works. Love the chiller. Thanks, Mike
Hi Mike, I'd be happy to help. TH-cam comments are not the easiest place to provide support. Use email or this Facebook group, RDWORKS Community Support facebook.com/groups/900528680076062/
Cheers Matt
Seriously so helpful! Thanks for translating for us :D
Question, does the bleach affect the conductivity of the water at all?
this should not matter, as the laser beam does not pass through water. the water is for Cooling of the glass jacket around the laser beam.
Thanks!!
No problem!
hi matt.... where i am here in the UK temperatures range between -3 Celsius in winter to around +30 Celsius in summer ... i have an 80W laser...what would you recommend i set the constant temperature at on my 5200? kind regards tony
20-25 degC
What is the difference between CW500 AND CW5200 ?
Compressor power, Nominal cooling capacity, Pump power, Max. pump pressure & flow and so on.
Full specs of each can be found on the teyuchiller . com website
In summary the CW5200 has better cooling capabilities over the CW5000
Does this machine from Cloudray come with a UK Power Plug?
That is a question you should ask them. The machines do have IEC connections on the unit, so you could replace easily in the UK if required.
I only import 220V units to Australia, and the plug is suitable for our requirements. I'm unsure of UK imports.
Cheers Matt
Would the CW-3000 chiller work with the red/black 60w I've seen on eBay?
Yes. But the cw3000 is not a refrigerated chiller.
Im not sure if your co2 laser have a weird setup, how does it make a difference if you switch IO tubes on the laser?
Not sure what you mean. However the correct way to install is Outlet from Chiller to Inlet of Laser.... then Outlet from Laser to Inlet of Chiller, as I have demonstrated in the video. This way the water flows in the correct direction and if air is in the laser tube it will escape from the laser tube outlet as it is higher than the inlet. if water flows in the wrong direction air can get trapped in the laser tube. Cheers Matt
@@MWLaser That on a laser co2 tube there is a direction but in all reality dont effect anything going backwards
what is the absolute minimum temperature ?? can it do 2 degree fo example ?
The CW5000 has Temperature control range: 5 - 35 ℃
(1) Is there much of a difference between a CW-5000 and a CW-5200 (it seems that "CW-" chillers can be made by various manufacturers using the same "CW-" designations)?
(2) What about additives to the distilled water like "Royal Purple ice" (coolant) and/or "EasyCare FounTec Algaecide and Clarifier" (instead of just bleach)?
the CW5200 has a slightly higher cooling capability to the 5000, but essentially they are very similar units. the 5000 is the minimum I recommend and is suitable for all lasers up to approx 100W. if you intend to use for long periods of laser cutting time per job or you have a high wattage tube then choose the CW5200 or larger.
I don't use anti freeze as I live in Australia, so not likely to have a freezing problem, I believe it is necessary in some climates, however I cannot recommend a brand or type.
Also I don't add any coolants or additives other than bleach. the purpose of the bleach is to minimise algae growth or sludge. if once added the system is sealed and circulating, you shouldn't have algae growth as it is not like aquarium water which is open to environment where organisms can enter. (I have had good results with using bleach only)
Hope this answers your question Cheers Matt
Hey Matt.
Is it best to leave the chiller on all the time or only when you are needing to use it?
Great video!
There is no need to leave it running all the time. Just ensure you have it on beforehand and the temp is maintained to your requirements.
@@MWLaser Thanks so much
Hi
When i turn my cw-5200 on it displays PP, do you know how to fix this?
Thank you,,
My guess is it means Password Protect - when you are trying to factory reset the system. Email me with more information kiddovp@gmail.com
do you know if it's possible to change this from C to F?
No on the S&A chillers the thermostat controllers are C only
Hi Matt
I am trying to set up my new cw5000 chiller and followed your instruction ,which seemed quite good and easy ,But as I pressed arrow keys and switched on at the same time PP came up instead of rF
So could go no further can you explain why
Many thanks Eddy
Hi, I have had this question from someone else a while ago, and there is no reference to this in the manual, So I contacted S&A the manufacturer, about this and the only response I got was "our chiller won't display PP, maybe is 8.88, but we are not sure at this moment" They will only provide further support with a barcode or serial number. My suggestion is the PP=Password Protected. But I do not have a solution for you other than contact Manufacturer support. If you do find out let us know.
Cheers Matt
Matts Workshop
Hi Matt
I sent you a message last (not sure if you received it so will send again)
Have been in contact with manufacturers about problem
Received email last night as follows
(Adjust the parameters F10 and F11 to 1 and press reset key to save)
I was not to sure how to do this so asked for a more detailed step by step
Had email back as follows ( press the set key for 5. seconds,then F0 appears .Adjust it to F10 and. F11 with up and down arrows key. O.Continue to connect the set key then 0 appears and 0 is adjusted. to 1)
Not sure about last statement (Continue to connect the set key)
Sorry if I seem still unsure ,but want to get it correct ,and will ask if I am not happy
Regards
Eddy
(Sorry to be a pain )
@@eddyroper1185 Check you Facebook Messages, My Replies are not saving here for some reason.
Matts Workshop
Tried it out got rid of PP
and chiller seems back on track ,just got to set temperatures now
Eddy
@@eddyroper1185 thanks for the update.
❤
Do you run the chiller when not using the laser?
My Chillers are turned on in the morning and off overnight. If you live in a climate where temps are likely to freeze water, then keep chiller in an environment where water temp stays fluid and you may find it necessary to have continuous water flow.
Super
Thanks
Great job and your work is fantastic. Do you do most of your designs on Coreldraw? I really would like to pick your brain a little, do you have a facebook page?
I do not use Corel much at all - I use LightBurn Software for most of my work, but I am not doing photos and such at the moment. My Facebook page link is in the Video Description.
you would be better off using DI water and biocide/copper sulphate, that is what we use in the PC water cooling world ;-) no algae and no corrosion, bleach will cause issues with the tubing and fittings....
That's possibly a good idea, however I have not experienced any corrosion after more than 12 months use.
I thought bleach was bad to put in there?
no, a small amount will not hurt
Difficult to undstood
Try the Manual - English version of the Manual for the CW-5000 and CW-5200
drive.google.com/open?id=1Juyq0nR_PRnTkqxAqob-sJq1pRMDQFk2
@@MWLaser thank sir
But i have stc 200
Hello Sir, i have a CW-5200 chiller, i can't get rid of the E4 alarm. i hope you could help me, much appreciated.
G'day. The E4 alarm is indicating that there is a room temperature sensor failure. The first thing you could try is check that the sensor connection has not come loose from the back of the control panel/unit (You would need to open machine to do this so only do if you are confident and the power is removed). If after checking connections and re-testing, the alarm is still present the sensor will need to be replaced I would suggest getting in contact with the manufacturer of your unit for parts and support.
You could also try searching the internet forums for more information and assistance.
Cheers Matt
@@MWLaser Thank you for replying, i've already checked the connection and the sensor it has no problem. i'm thinking if there is a way to check the problem on the board or somehow reinstall the software.
@@khachigkavafian6289 I hope you can work it out, I presume you have you tried a factory reset of the controller. I do not think I will be able to assist further, sorry. I think you may need to contact your supplier.
Matt.