The only thing I use 2.5 mm tip for is holo flakes that I put in my clear coat. When I got my training in the early 90's we were trained on the Glasurit system. At that time HVLP guns were introduced in Sweden. When we painted cars we used etch primer (aluminum parts and some cars that had been zinc primed) or red primer (cheap 1K stuff), over that we shot an easy to sand high build primer, blocked that out with 400 grit and painted the car. We had an oven that we baked the car in for 15-45 minutes depending on what we put on, 15 minutes for the high build primer and about 30-40 minutes for clear coat and solid paint. At my education we were also told that 400 grit should be the lowest number to paint over and 800-1000 should be the highest if you wanted the paint to stick. As you demonstrated here it can be done with lower or higher grits even if it's not to recommend. 320 can show scratches and higher grits can cause the paint to loose it's grip and peal off.
Another good video gunman. Something I like to use is an old side window from a car as a mixing board for larger skims. They're dead easy to clean with thinners and a razor scraper.
I would love if you made a video about feeling high and low spots, obviously it's something each person has to experience but any tips and tricks to feel them out would be great. How the older guys who have been doing it their whole life can feel the smallest of low spots is amazing imo.
The last shop I was at, this new guy forgot to put the hardener in, whipped the hood of this old 57 Lincoln, what a mess that was! lol Looking good man!
Hey have you considered using paintless dent removal for the light hail damage, would have saved you a lot of bogging and time sanding, not saying your doing it the wrong way or anything though
Hey gunman many more good hints and tricks of the trade, very interested to see your future video on viscosity and temperature. Like to see you working on more FORDS all these holdens are turning my stomach and putting me off my food.
Hi again. Thanks for the reply. The PPG Nexa basecoat I have for the Jag specifies MS clear and says it can have problems with HS, I can't think why but there 'ya go. I don't fancy painting the thing twice so I'm using MS just to be safe.
Ah I see. I've already bought the clear for the E type and you had me worried for a minute. Here's another question for 'ya. I've seen people mixing basecoat and activated 2k clearcoat for use as a single coat job on interior panels. I have to re-do the inside of the Jag to change the colour so this might make the job a bit easier. What d'ya think?
Nice finish mate. Did you say that you wouldn't use an MS clear on an exterior panel or you wouldn't spray an MS clear this way on an exterior panel? Would you recommend an HS clear?
Barry Jones Yeah I meant I wouldn't do dust-wet coat on exterior but for inside a panel I'm not too fussed, HS clears are good and go further but can be a bit harder to spray because they are so thick.
Barry Jones What MS and HS stands for is Medium and High Solid. It has to do with cost and gloss. If you want a glossy car that sparkles and shines for a long time, HS is the way to go. Many High solids today are produced with UV protection and things like that, that effects the price. MS is glossy too but not as much as the HS and it doesn't last as long as HS clear does. MS is cheaper. What is MS and HS? It's a measure of solid particles left on the car after the solvent evaporates, that is what gives the HS clear more gloss. The main difference between the two is when you spray them. MS is flowing out more and is more "forgiving", HS is bit easier to get a run with and you have to spray so it looks nice, it doesn't flow out on the panel as good. That's at least my version of it. The Gunman can maybe contribute with more info but this is from my personal experience.
Thank you GM for all your hard work and efforts. I've been traveling the last few months and watched all your videos. I have a question about compressors for daily users, what do you recommend? Is buying cheap sandpaper from eBay okay, 3M claims that they have even sand on the paper which makes it for better sanding. Last, do you use rubbing alcohol while prepping to prevent static electricity? Thanks again for all you and keep up the great work....
SupremeRenov For a compressor I'd try and keep your eye out for a good second hand one, if you can find one that's at least 2.5hp and a 3 stage you'd be set for painting. Anything like that costs well over 1k (in Australia) new. The hard part can be finding one which isn't 3 phase (unless you have 3 phase, then you're set). Farm clearance sales can be a good place to pick them up.
Thanks for the tip. I found one in Craigslist and its a 2001 Belaiew 60 gal 230 volt 6HP for $150. Says it runs great but has a pin hole and air leaks out. Should I try to repair it by taking it to be welded? Thanks again
great video I learn so much from ur vidz. ur a great painter. I got a ? if u can please help me out. Im stressin bad see I have a 30 gallon compressor with 6.5 scfm @ 40 psi n 5.5 scfm @ 90 psi and really want either the gti pro lite, or the flg4 670 but they require at least like anywhere from 9-15 cfm. I know my compressor cant hang but could I still use one of the spray guns n get great results even if I did my work in sections and wait for my tank to build up and go at it again or should I just go with a lvlp spray gun. please lmk ur opinion since ur experienced.
The only thing I use 2.5 mm tip for is holo flakes that I put in my clear coat. When I got my training in the early 90's we were trained on the Glasurit system. At that time HVLP guns were introduced in Sweden. When we painted cars we used etch primer (aluminum parts and some cars that had been zinc primed) or red primer (cheap 1K stuff), over that we shot an easy to sand high build primer, blocked that out with 400 grit and painted the car. We had an oven that we baked the car in for 15-45 minutes depending on what we put on, 15 minutes for the high build primer and about 30-40 minutes for clear coat and solid paint. At my education we were also told that 400 grit should be the lowest number to paint over and 800-1000 should be the highest if you wanted the paint to stick. As you demonstrated here it can be done with lower or higher grits even if it's not to recommend. 320 can show scratches and higher grits can cause the paint to loose it's grip and peal off.
Your confidence is contagious. Thanks for fantastic videos!
Another good video gunman. Something I like to use is an old side window from a car as a mixing board for larger skims. They're dead easy to clean with thinners and a razor scraper.
S Yip I like it man, I'll be keeping an eye out for one.
I would love if you made a video about feeling high and low spots, obviously it's something each person has to experience but any tips and tricks to feel them out would be great. How the older guys who have been doing it their whole life can feel the smallest of low spots is amazing imo.
it's hard to teach one on one let alone in a video
Great vid ! Always appreciate the honesty you put forward. Keep them coming as you are teaching me a ton !
Great video ! Loaded with helpful tips. I like the longer videos. The flg 5 is working well ! Thanks Gunman !
Cffd f5trrs
The last shop I was at, this new guy forgot to put the hardener in, whipped the hood of this old 57 Lincoln, what a mess that was! lol Looking good man!
awesome job mate.
im painting my Vh commodore and using all your videos for info
Hi gunman! Thanks a lot doing this great video, will help me doing preps correctly
Charly Thouvenot No problem, on Tuesday the next video will be up and will finish this panel off.
Great video!
Boot lid came out very well.
Hey have you considered using paintless dent removal for the light hail damage, would have saved you a lot of bogging and time sanding, not saying your doing it the wrong way or anything though
Hey gunman many more good hints and tricks of the trade, very interested to see your future video on viscosity and temperature.
Like to see you working on more FORDS all these holdens are turning my stomach and putting me off my food.
That colour is awesome mate keep us posted on that misfire too great work :)
Hi again.
Thanks for the reply.
The PPG Nexa basecoat I have for the Jag specifies MS clear and says it can have problems with HS, I can't think why but there 'ya go.
I don't fancy painting the thing twice so I'm using MS just to be safe.
Ah I see.
I've already bought the clear for the E type and you had me worried for a minute.
Here's another question for 'ya.
I've seen people mixing basecoat and activated 2k clearcoat for use as a single coat job on interior panels. I have to re-do the inside of the Jag to change the colour so this might make the job a bit easier.
What d'ya think?
hey master what kind of paint are you using , because the one that i use is acrilic but it is never that easy to clean my gun ?
it looks like you used the 696S clear from dupont not duxone clear (min 26:46)
adi2200us I had a 20lt can of Duxone and just put it in an old DuPont can.
Nice tips
Nice finish mate.
Did you say that you wouldn't use an MS clear on an exterior panel or you wouldn't spray an MS clear this way on an exterior panel?
Would you recommend an HS clear?
Barry Jones Yeah I meant I wouldn't do dust-wet coat on exterior but for inside a panel I'm not too fussed, HS clears are good and go further but can be a bit harder to spray because they are so thick.
Barry Jones What MS and HS stands for is Medium and High Solid. It has to do with cost and gloss. If you want a glossy car that sparkles and shines for a long time, HS is the way to go. Many High solids today are produced with UV protection and things like that, that effects the price. MS is glossy too but not as much as the HS and it doesn't last as long as HS clear does. MS is cheaper. What is MS and HS? It's a measure of solid particles left on the car after the solvent evaporates, that is what gives the HS clear more gloss. The main difference between the two is when you spray them. MS is flowing out more and is more "forgiving", HS is bit easier to get a run with and you have to spray so it looks nice, it doesn't flow out on the panel as good. That's at least my version of it. The Gunman can maybe contribute with more info but this is from my personal experience.
Per-Erik Gustafsson Hit the nail on the head mate.
I didn't think, you could paint 2 pack over acrylic?
good to see you doin vids like this mate very informative and im sure your sick hearing this but great job as always lol! :)
Thank you GM for all your hard work and efforts. I've been traveling the last few months and watched all your videos. I have a question about compressors for daily users, what do you recommend? Is buying cheap sandpaper from eBay okay, 3M claims that they have even sand on the paper which makes it for better sanding. Last, do you use rubbing alcohol while prepping to prevent static electricity? Thanks again for all you and keep up the great work....
SupremeRenov For a compressor I'd try and keep your eye out for a good second hand one, if you can find one that's at least 2.5hp and a 3 stage you'd be set for painting. Anything like that costs well over 1k (in Australia) new. The hard part can be finding one which isn't 3 phase (unless you have 3 phase, then you're set). Farm clearance sales can be a good place to pick them up.
Thanks for the tip. I found one in Craigslist and its a 2001 Belaiew 60 gal 230 volt 6HP for $150. Says it runs great but has a pin hole and air leaks out. Should I try to repair it by taking it to be welded? Thanks again
Hi gunman what psi you use for paint and clear love your video's getting a lot of help from this it's very understandable thx
I use 2 bar for clear and 1.5 bar for basecoat these days.
great video I learn so much from ur vidz. ur a great painter. I got a ? if u can please help me out. Im stressin bad see I have a 30 gallon compressor with 6.5 scfm @ 40 psi n 5.5 scfm @ 90 psi and really want either the gti pro lite, or the flg4 670 but they require at least like anywhere from 9-15 cfm. I know my compressor cant hang but could I still use one of the spray guns n get great results even if I did my work in sections and wait for my tank to build up and go at it again or should I just go with a lvlp spray gun. please lmk ur opinion since ur experienced.
EdMuZiK LoGik Go with the pro lite TE10 cap, its lvlp and consumes the least air, good luck.
fersure I will check that out Thank u.
Love this guy. Ur simply the best. Cheers. 🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺
Hi Gunman...great videos...what pressure do you use for the primer?
Vince Lumia 15-20psi at the gun
Is silicone remover and wax and grease remover the same? Thanks a lot for upload!
Yes, same thing
Thanks for reply.You are a true inspiration. TC
It’s 2018 how is that rust spot going has it emerged again
Great vid!
Velvethamma Thanks again mate
thanks buddy
Gunman Great video enjoyed it
Art Bolanos
Houston, Texas
one of the hardest things to do is paint in the winter time with a satajet 90...lol
Crikey mate..who cares what the inside looks like as long as it looks nice...It looks nice just like that.
They make a little blue pill over here in America. Takes care of the never go hard problem just fine. Not that I would know.