I'm not sure what wheels you are currently using, but the new collector's Hogwarts Express has some gigantic steam train wheels that are official LEGO parts! Probably not too pricy on Bricklink or Bricks and Pieces, either...
thanks for the idea but unfortunately they don't work for my track. The flange part needs to be 1 stud wide I had not seen this model before. Looks like Lego saw my bigger trains and also made a big train haha
Hi, ik kreeg van TH-cam het advies om dit filmpje te kijken. Waarschijnlijk omdat ze bij TH-cam zien dat ik sinds kort ook een beetje met Lego begonnen ben en af en toe iets m.b.t. Lego Technic dingen zoek. Als gepensioneerde zocht ik naast mijn vele andere hobby's een nieuwe hobby om mijzelf ook wat meer binnenshuis te vermaken. En ik moet bekennen dat ik na mijn eerste Lego Technic bouwdoosje (augustus 2022) een behoorlijke nieuwe (bouw)verslaving er bij heb. Inmiddels heb ik al tientallen (Lego) voertuigen in elkaar geknutseld. Maar ik zie hier hoe het plezier in het met Lego voertuigen bedenken, uitwerken en bouwen behoorlijke groteske vormen aan kan nemen. Leuk om te zien dat je er zo groots en vakkundig en met veel technisch inzicht mee aan de slag gaat. Bedankt voor het maken en delen. 🆒👍 Ik zag bij een ander filmpje van je dat je een gele koploper had gemaakt maar dat de andere zijde rood leek te zijn. Is dat bewust gedaan?
Hoi fijn dat je mn videos leuk vindt. De Koploper heeft 2 kleuren want dat is een stuk goedkoper en ik vond het wel een leuk experiment; 2 treinen in 1. Goed dat je bezig bent met Technic Lego want het normale Lego is meer voor de show en frustrerend dat je er niet makkelijk een motortje in kan bouwen. Ken je de Rebrickable site? Op die site allemaal mooie creaties van mensen, en er is altijd een bouwinstructie waar je wel vaak wat voor moet betalen. Het mooie van die site is dat je een gratis account aanmaakt en dan al je set nummers invoert dus de site weet precies welke parts je hebt. Dan click je op een model van iemand en dat berekent de site precies welke parts je hebt en welke je mist. Dan kan je doorclicken naar Bricklink om de missende parts te kopen. Vaak voor 3-5-10 euro en kan je een leuk model bouwen. Ik vind de modellen op Rebrickable vaak interessanter dan de Lego sets. Op de Rebrickable site zie je vaak hoge prijzen voor de missende stenen maar als je het lijstje opzoekt bij Bricklink moet je "Used" kiezen en is het veel goedkoper. En als je geld over hebt koop je een paar leuke batterij/receivers van Buwizz haha En bij Brickwatch check ik altijd voor de goedkoopste Lego sets want een set is altijd goedkoper dan losse stenen kopen. Groetjes
This are honestly the most unique creations i´ve seen, because when it comes to trains, the only way was to drive it with electric motors, and on lego tracks with exclussive lego wheels; and not only are you making something that works, ur making it just as it is in real life. Its really impressive, are you thinking about doing a video of the inner workings now that not everything is on the outside? Not only to see how you did it but also to understand how you made the excentric crank fixed to the wheel at an angle and how is everything connected. Also are you thinking about implementing brakes? Because its basically the only thing thats missing from a real train, the rest is all thought of. Again ur great, your channel is great, your trains are an inspiration and i hope you keep building greater and greater builds.
Hi Joaquin, thanks for the compliments. I will try to show more of the inside next video. To fix the crank to the wheel is a real challenge because it still needs to be able to move but it also needs to be fixed. So I found 2 ways to do this but it's not for the Lego purist. I fix a 18651 pin to a wheel pin hole (not axle hole) by putting a couple layers of toilet paper on the hole and then gently insert the 18651 pin. The toilet paper will make the pin more fixed but still possible to adjust. When the crank was in the right angle I glued it with a very small amount of superglue. I know this not the official way of building Lego but I don't know any other way. If Lego would make Technic trains they would invent a lot of new train parts to make everything possible. I have no plans to add brakes because I don't think I need to use the brakes ever. The trains need to go faster!
@@legotechnictrains8999The best part of the answer is the brakes XD. But for the glued rod, its unfortunate lego doesnt give a clear solution to technic train functionality so i think its ok to step a bit ouf of the line sometimes and make something better than it otherwise would ever possibly be. Thanks for answering and have a great day!
Yeah, a shorter eccentric crank, maybe just a 2 stud one, would probably work better with collisions and also just for faster running in general. Also try using lubricants on certain spinning parts like axles or the crank parts.
In my previous videos I used a 3 stud crank but I could not get enough movement to flip the air switch/valve. I need to find out how to build a switchless system (by bending the air tube). It would be so great if the expansion link can be used to make it run more/less lean so more torque or more top speed. I could move the radius bar up/down while it is driving. I'm going to try some larger diameter air tubes for some more air flow.
@@legotechnictrains8999 I think that you should reposition the eccentric crank, that way it doesn't exceed the wheel diameter i know it may not work, but you could try it...
@@legotechnictrains8999 so you are using the “support coach idea” I gave you? Thanks man, and I’m fine for a few other ideas maybe a smaller excentric crank would help
If i remember correctly there is a youtube channel called british bricks and in there video about lego valve gears there is a link to a online store for custom pistons and wheels update the online store only has piston rods
seeing as the engine has some wheelslip on its own. having it pulling a consist whould prob make the wheels spin really fast with basiclly no traction. great model
Hoi Michael, bedankt voor het aanbod. Fijn dat je verstand hebt van magnetische nanostructuren! Als je me mailt zal ik je de details geven. LegoTechnicTrains@outlook.com Met een aantal grote wielen zal het er zo mooi uitzien!
Hi! I just discovered your channel. Thank you for sharing all your incredible creations. I will now devote some serious time watching ALL your content. Mike
Thanks, if I add an airtank I will also need to add extra air switches to release the pressure. So this means also extra motors, battery, receiver. Or do you know a better way?
Not crazy magic at all, but geometry. It doesn't really work with air, because the output change is mostly based on extracting heat energy from the steam via expansion. The valve gear changes the % cut-off of steam to the cylinder, which then changes the power output of the engine- a shorter cut off is more efficient, but less powerful. Usually, the boiler cannot generate enough steam for non expansive working.
One update you could make is to shorten the crank pin. That looks quite taxing if you ask me. Also, put in a 12 v system to crank out more juice sometime
Thanks for the advice. Yes the crank pin is the key to make it work. With this reverse system I need to use a 4L thin liftarm otherwise it does not push/pull enough to flip the air switch. Before I use a 3L thin liftarm and that works better. So I would like to try a 3.5L thin liftarm but they don't exist so maybe someone can 3D print some. The Buwizz is almost 12V so enough juice. I've bought some air tubes with bigger diameter so maybe that will help.
@Cj Strader I thought you meant the eccentric crank, the crank pin is as short as possible. I just tried 32013, 4265c, and 22961 but the connection is very weak. But thanks for the idea because it does work with a 32013 and 6553. The 6553 is half a stud too long so I cut it off so now a good connection and 3.5L. One side needs to be with axle hole so that's why the 32039. I thought it needed to be a thin liftarm but 1 beam wide should also work. Thanks!
One thing also occurred to me. Why not make it a compound steam locomotive? 2 high pressure internal cylinders and 2 low pressure external cylinders? Might help with pressure and overall economy of the pumps
Hi, thanks! The small wheels are the 2695 which I cut the rim off and the wheel for the steam loc is the 44772 which I cut in half and cut the 2 upstanding edges off. The flange part needs to be 1 stud wide so the wheel is guided over the switch points. The distance between the rolling surface and outer flange wheel should be half a stud. You can also mail me at LegoTechnicTrains@outlook.com because I might not see what you write here. Thanks!
basically i am remaking your trains with other types of wheels that are not really a great fit but i dont really am into buying the wheels you use because i am building the train at school... (btw; are u from the Netherlands?)
I don't think so unfortunately. But I still need to improve a couple things and then maybe it is possible. Especially if all wheels are in the air it might be possible.
@@Viporko-nb8rf I don't think the pistons are problem. There is a bit of slack in all the linkages so the air switch needs to be pushed further. So moving the air switch a little is difficult. So maybe 3d printed linkages for the reverse mechanism would make it work.
yes haha, only after I built it I noticed it. I wanted to say something about it but I didn't. Getting the timing right was such a pain that I did't feel like switching the cranks 180 degrees.
@@BenGi551 I came across a video and the guy explained it's better to have forward in de low position in case the expansion link fails and the eccentric rod drops down. At least the rods are moving in the same direction then. So when I heard that I thought "damn..." haha
Ik heb elastieken geprobeerd maar ze werken niet fijn op mijn treinbaan. De wielen rollen niet op de elastieken maar de elastieken worden opzij geduwd en de wielen komen een beetje vast te zitten tussen de rails. Ik moet eigenlijk hele dunne brede elastieken hebben maar ik kon ze niet vinden. Ik doe nu wat ductape op de wielen en dat heeft redelijk goede grip en weinig weerstand.
@@jandogmatic1407 bedankt voor de tip maar die elastieken zijn veel te dik. Ze moeten zo dun zijn als dunne rubberen handschoenen. Ik heb geprobeerd de vingers af te knippen maar dat werkte ook niet.
That train lift is brilliantly designed! Awesome loco aswell i love how you got that system to actually work
I'm not sure what wheels you are currently using, but the new collector's Hogwarts Express has some gigantic steam train wheels that are official LEGO parts! Probably not too pricy on Bricklink or Bricks and Pieces, either...
thanks for the idea but unfortunately they don't work for my track. The flange part needs to be 1 stud wide
I had not seen this model before. Looks like Lego saw my bigger trains and also made a big train haha
Fantastic piece of engineering!
Hi, ik kreeg van TH-cam het advies om dit filmpje te kijken. Waarschijnlijk omdat ze bij TH-cam zien dat ik sinds kort ook een beetje met Lego begonnen ben en af en toe iets m.b.t. Lego Technic dingen zoek. Als gepensioneerde zocht ik naast mijn vele andere hobby's een nieuwe hobby om mijzelf ook wat meer binnenshuis te vermaken. En ik moet bekennen dat ik na mijn eerste Lego Technic bouwdoosje (augustus 2022) een behoorlijke nieuwe (bouw)verslaving er bij heb. Inmiddels heb ik al tientallen (Lego) voertuigen in elkaar geknutseld. Maar ik zie hier hoe het plezier in het met Lego voertuigen bedenken, uitwerken en bouwen behoorlijke groteske vormen aan kan nemen. Leuk om te zien dat je er zo groots en vakkundig en met veel technisch inzicht mee aan de slag gaat. Bedankt voor het maken en delen. 🆒👍 Ik zag bij een ander filmpje van je dat je een gele koploper had gemaakt maar dat de andere zijde rood leek te zijn. Is dat bewust gedaan?
Hoi fijn dat je mn videos leuk vindt. De Koploper heeft 2 kleuren want dat is een stuk goedkoper en ik vond het wel een leuk experiment; 2 treinen in 1. Goed dat je bezig bent met Technic Lego want het normale Lego is meer voor de show en frustrerend dat je er niet makkelijk een motortje in kan bouwen. Ken je de Rebrickable site? Op die site allemaal mooie creaties van mensen, en er is altijd een bouwinstructie waar je wel vaak wat voor moet betalen. Het mooie van die site is dat je een gratis account aanmaakt en dan al je set nummers invoert dus de site weet precies welke parts je hebt. Dan click je op een model van iemand en dat berekent de site precies welke parts je hebt en welke je mist. Dan kan je doorclicken naar Bricklink om de missende parts te kopen. Vaak voor 3-5-10 euro en kan je een leuk model bouwen. Ik vind de modellen op Rebrickable vaak interessanter dan de Lego sets. Op de Rebrickable site zie je vaak hoge prijzen voor de missende stenen maar als je het lijstje opzoekt bij Bricklink moet je "Used" kiezen en is het veel goedkoper. En als je geld over hebt koop je een paar leuke batterij/receivers van Buwizz haha
En bij Brickwatch check ik altijd voor de goedkoopste Lego sets want een set is altijd goedkoper dan losse stenen kopen. Groetjes
This are honestly the most unique creations i´ve seen, because when it comes to trains, the only way was to drive it with electric motors, and on lego tracks with exclussive lego wheels; and not only are you making something that works, ur making it just as it is in real life. Its really impressive, are you thinking about doing a video of the inner workings now that not everything is on the outside? Not only to see how you did it but also to understand how you made the excentric crank fixed to the wheel at an angle and how is everything connected. Also are you thinking about implementing brakes? Because its basically the only thing thats missing from a real train, the rest is all thought of. Again ur great, your channel is great, your trains are an inspiration and i hope you keep building greater and greater builds.
Hi Joaquin, thanks for the compliments. I will try to show more of the inside next video. To fix the crank to the wheel is a real challenge because it still needs to be able to move but it also needs to be fixed. So I found 2 ways to do this but it's not for the Lego purist. I fix a 18651 pin to a wheel pin hole (not axle hole) by putting a couple layers of toilet paper on the hole and then gently insert the 18651 pin. The toilet paper will make the pin more fixed but still possible to adjust. When the crank was in the right angle I glued it with a very small amount of superglue.
I know this not the official way of building Lego but I don't know any other way. If Lego would make Technic trains they would invent a lot of new train parts to make everything possible.
I have no plans to add brakes because I don't think I need to use the brakes ever. The trains need to go faster!
@@legotechnictrains8999The best part of the answer is the brakes XD. But for the glued rod, its unfortunate lego doesnt give a clear solution to technic train functionality so i think its ok to step a bit ouf of the line sometimes and make something better than it otherwise would ever possibly be.
Thanks for answering and have a great day!
Yeah, a shorter eccentric crank, maybe just a 2 stud one, would probably work better with collisions and also just for faster running in general. Also try using lubricants on certain spinning parts like axles or the crank parts.
In my previous videos I used a 3 stud crank but I could not get enough movement to flip the air switch/valve. I need to find out how to build a switchless system (by bending the air tube).
It would be so great if the expansion link can be used to make it run more/less lean so more torque or more top speed. I could move the radius bar up/down while it is driving. I'm going to try some larger diameter air tubes for some more air flow.
@@legotechnictrains8999More air flow means SPEEEED!
@@legotechnictrains8999 I think that you should reposition the eccentric crank, that way it doesn't exceed the wheel diameter
i know it may not work, but you could try it...
@@montgomeryfamily6199 well, I am limited by the position of the pin holes in the wheel I am using. But maybe when someone will 3D print some wheels.
@@legotechnictrains8999 so you are using the “support coach idea” I gave you? Thanks man, and I’m fine for a few other ideas maybe a smaller excentric crank would help
Amazing! Congrats!
an Electric-Pneumatic locomotive, very awesome
that is COOL! would never have the time to make this!
that, is now officially the best Lego creation I've ever seen
Wow that's a nice compliment! This is just a steam loc to find out if/how it works so imagine how cool a really big steam loc will look!
If i remember correctly there is a youtube channel called british bricks and in there video about lego valve gears there is a link to a online store for custom pistons and wheels update the online store only has piston rods
Thanks for the tip. All the custom Lego pistons and wheels are for the smaller brick trains and don't work for my track unfortunately.
seeing as the engine has some wheelslip on its own. having it pulling a consist whould prob make the wheels spin really fast with basiclly no traction. great model
The Air pumping Module can you take this in the Coal Module? 🤔
BEAUTIFULL
Happy to help you out with printing bigger wheels.
Hoi Michael, bedankt voor het aanbod. Fijn dat je verstand hebt van magnetische nanostructuren! Als je me mailt zal ik je de details geven. LegoTechnicTrains@outlook.com
Met een aantal grote wielen zal het er zo mooi uitzien!
Ondanks dat ie niet super goed werkt, een heel mooi concept!
Hi! I just discovered your channel. Thank you for sharing all your incredible creations. I will now devote some serious time watching ALL your content. Mike
Haha thanks! I wish my camera was better and I wish I had more space for the track and trains! Enjoy the videos!
he did it :P
Echt indrukwekkend, alleen jammer van de compressor die er altijd moet achterhangen
Daar wordt aan gewerkt!
Excellent! What du you thing about add a airtank at the airpumps? Maybe this could allow the locomotive to be more fluid.
Thanks, if I add an airtank I will also need to add extra air switches to release the pressure. So this means also extra motors, battery, receiver. Or do you know a better way?
Let’s gooooooooooo
BTW in real steam locos there are some crazy black magic that makes reversor control not only on direction of travel, but also on engine's output.
I'm not a train expert so you need to tell me what you are mean exactly, sorry.
Not crazy magic at all, but geometry. It doesn't really work with air, because the output change is mostly based on extracting heat energy from the steam via expansion. The valve gear changes the % cut-off of steam to the cylinder, which then changes the power output of the engine- a shorter cut off is more efficient, but less powerful. Usually, the boiler cannot generate enough steam for non expansive working.
haha very nice
I see that it's been a while since you've uploaded this video, but I'd be more than happy to help with creating some custom 3D printable wheels.
One update you could make is to shorten the crank pin. That looks quite taxing if you ask me.
Also, put in a 12 v system to crank out more juice sometime
Thanks for the advice.
Yes the crank pin is the key to make it work.
With this reverse system I need to use a 4L thin liftarm otherwise it does not push/pull enough to flip the air switch. Before I use a 3L thin liftarm and that works better. So I would like to try a 3.5L thin liftarm but they don't exist so maybe someone can 3D print some.
The Buwizz is almost 12V so enough juice. I've bought some air tubes with bigger diameter so maybe that will help.
@@legotechnictrains8999 If anything, use parts 32013, 4265c, and 22961 to make a substitute 3.5 liftarm.
@Cj Strader I thought you meant the eccentric crank, the crank pin is as short as possible.
I just tried 32013, 4265c, and 22961 but the connection is very weak. But thanks for the idea because it does work with a 32013 and 6553. The 6553 is half a stud too long so I cut it off so now a good connection and 3.5L. One side needs to be with axle hole so that's why the 32039. I thought it needed to be a thin liftarm but 1 beam wide should also work.
Thanks!
One thing also occurred to me. Why not make it a compound steam locomotive? 2 high pressure internal cylinders and 2 low pressure external cylinders? Might help with pressure and overall economy of the pumps
What lens are you using? Got some nice looking distortion happening on the edge of frame
I'm still figuring out how to best set the focus on my Sony ZV-1. And maybe the distortion is there because of the wide angle lens.
👍👍
Which engine wheel piece are you currently using? I can try to design a larger version.
Hi, thanks! The small wheels are the 2695 which I cut the rim off and the wheel for the steam loc is the 44772 which I cut in half and cut the 2 upstanding edges off. The flange part needs to be 1 stud wide so the wheel is guided over the switch points.
The distance between the rolling surface and outer flange wheel should be half a stud.
You can also mail me at LegoTechnicTrains@outlook.com because I might not see what you write here.
Thanks!
I can help design and print better wheels. I just need to know what you need and I can make them
basically i am remaking your trains with other types of wheels that are not really a great fit but i dont really am into buying the wheels you use because i am building the train at school...
(btw; are u from the Netherlands?)
Quick question: What Whyte system wheel arrangement is this locomotive?
I am really not an expert in the Whyte system but I guess 2-6-0
Ok thanks. As an American, I only know how to classify steam locomotives with the Whyte system.
Could you send me a reference of the wheels your using and what size you want
Je hoort zo goed dat ie gw Nederlands is
Does it have cutoff? aka if you pull the bar closer to neutral, it will go faster
I don't think so unfortunately. But I still need to improve a couple things and then maybe it is possible. Especially if all wheels are in the air it might be possible.
@@legotechnictrains8999 can you try to 3d print a set of pistons to do so?
@@Viporko-nb8rf I don't think the pistons are problem. There is a bit of slack in all the linkages so the air switch needs to be pushed further. So moving the air switch a little is difficult. So maybe 3d printed linkages for the reverse mechanism would make it work.
@@legotechnictrains8999 yes
can you Cut-off with it? if so, does it goes faster?
I think I need to increase the air flow before I can do that so maybe in the future when I have made different compressors with bigger pumps.
@@legotechnictrains8999 i see,
you really should look into it,
he does realize that the valvegear is working backwards right? the bottom is forward gear the top is reverse...
yes haha, only after I built it I noticed it. I wanted to say something about it but I didn't. Getting the timing right was such a pain that I did't feel like switching the cranks 180 degrees.
Thats also because of the lego valve working in the opposite way as the one in the real diagram isnt it?
There is no right or wrong here. It works either way, only forward and reverse positions are flipped as you said.
@@BenGi551 I came across a video and the guy explained it's better to have forward in de low position in case the expansion link fails and the eccentric rod drops down. At least the rods are moving in the same direction then.
So when I heard that I thought "damn..." haha
So it’s pneumatic
Ge bruik wat rubere elastieken dan heb en ze meer grip op de baan
Ik heb elastieken geprobeerd maar ze werken niet fijn op mijn treinbaan. De wielen rollen niet op de elastieken maar de elastieken worden opzij geduwd en de wielen komen een beetje vast te zitten tussen de rails. Ik moet eigenlijk hele dunne brede elastieken hebben maar ik kon ze niet vinden. Ik doe nu wat ductape op de wielen en dat heeft redelijk goede grip en weinig weerstand.
@@legotechnictrains8999 en post bode elastieken en knip ze door midden en plak ze er op met secondenlijm wat ze zijn plat en dan niet af op hopelijk
@@jandogmatic1407 bedankt voor de tip maar die elastieken zijn veel te dik. Ze moeten zo dun zijn als dunne rubberen handschoenen. Ik heb geprobeerd de vingers af te knippen maar dat werkte ook niet.
@@legotechnictrains8999 en die mini elastiekjes die om lego city trijn wielen ziten als dat niet werkt weet ik ook niet meer
Ik gaa thuis experimenteren met joun trijn comsept en kijken welke
Elastieken de besten is
or shorter everything
Now make it run on actual steam pressure
✧⏗✧