Don't overcomplicate things. These plates don't need a break-in nearly as much as some of the TH-camrs make it out to be. Just use them a few times normally and they break in naturally.
you probably dont care but does any of you know a trick to log back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid forgot the password. I would love any tips you can give me!
@Zaid Jaxton thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Be careful what cleaning/degreaser products you use for those diamond plates bc some can make the nickel plating that holds diamonds brittle prematurely and you can lose diamonds in process. I know they also provide lubrication to prevent sticking of things to be sharpened and provide some glide. I use a few drops of regular dawn in a 8-16 oz spray bottle. Works wonderfully while sharpening and to clean w plastic bristled kitchen brush afterwards for cleanup. Also you could use a little mineral oil w old toothbrush (after you apply crayon to strop dry) to get the chromium oxide crayon to spread on leather strop a little better. It’ll melt the Crayon to distribute onto leather but of course you need to give it some time for leather to absorb mineral oil and layer of crox. Hairdryer helps to heat leather and make it absorb oil faster to drying.
@@NorthwestCraftsman I don’t know about crud cutter but I’ve heard of people using it to degreaser natural stones. It was bar keepers friend that I saw in a video right before yours warning of some type of acid chemical reaction with nickel. I was thinking of purchasing some for my arks n atoma bc I assumed it was safe reading through blade forums n seeing videos of people using it on their plates just thought I’d pass it along. Guess I’ll just stick to trusty ole dawn. One other thing it doesn’t take much at all for the chromium oxide to have a great affect. Just think sometimes less is more.
Oh yea, bar keepers friend has oxalic acid in it to help polish stainless so that wouldn’t shock me at all. I think you’re right that a mixture of Dawn would be the safest option.
@@NorthwestCraftsman it just now dawned on me that it was fiebing’s neatsfoot compound oil that I used to help spread chrome oxide crayon. Pure Neatsfoot oil isn’t cheap and better overall for the leather but the compound is cheaper n not as pure as pure neatsfoot oil but it’s still just as thin for an oil ; thinner than most mineral oils n great for leather. I’ve been putting it on work boots for 20+ years now, two pairs of redwings n one thorogoods for over 10-15 years and they’re still holding up on me. It’s made from the hooves and shinbones of cows I believe.
I just got these stones. For whatever reason I’m intimidated by the break in directions. Oddly enough I found a rusty cleaver to use also. Did you use the cleaver on all 3 stones before the plane iron?
Totally understand the apprehension. They are pretty big investment, and my nerves made me not want to screw it up. However, after using them for a long time now, they are far more robust than I initially gave them credit for. You will have a difficult time hurting them unless you let them rust. To answer your question though, I did use the cleaver on all three stones before sharpening any of my tools on them. Kind of humorous having a shaving sharp cleaver 😂 did that help to answer your question?
A break-in is not nearly as necessary as so many of these TH-camrs want you to believe. Just use the plates and they will break in naturally after a few uses. It really is that simple
Do you get a polished finish on the back of your chisels? I just bought these and the finish after going 300/600/1200 they don't seem as polished as when I used sandpaper on a piece of glass.
I was able to achieve the polished finish after using the 3 plates, like you said, plus a leather strop. Stropping the back is difficult though because the corners of your chisel can gouge the strop. If you need wicked precise edges then I’d try for the polished back, for most of my work though, taking it to the 1200 plate is sufficient. Just in case you need it Leather Strop: amzn.to/35AB6Pm
I can’t speak directly to DMT’s since I don’t own any but if they’re like my diamond plates, the biggest thing is keeping them dry once you’re done so they don’t rust.
@@NorthwestCraftsmanI have four DMT single sided plates. If you go to the DMT website you will see a host of questions posted that will answer any of your concerns. The stones shown here are probably less expensive than the Dia-Sharp brand . I spoke to DMT customer service recently to verify that they have a “lifetime warranty” which is comforting to know, none of these stones last forever. The more you use them , the quicker they wear. If you hone a micro bevel to your plane irons and chisels, all you need is a leather strop with occasional use of the finer grit stones.
I would have to weigh it when I get home, 2 pounds seems about right for all three plates together. I would guess that each plate is just over a half a pound.
Windex will cause rust as it contains ammonia. As an alternative to Krud Kleaner, just use a car window cleaner as these don't contain ammonia as it would destroy window tint.
Krud Kleaner does work great, I started with this but it wasn't my favorite to work with so I moved to windex as suggested by Paul Sellers. I will admit I don't use my stones as regularly as I should but personally I haven't run into any rusting issues. I do dry my stones after using them though, so I may be mitigating it that way.
@@NorthwestCraftsman yes I got my info from there, too (pretty much all my woodworking knowledge 😁) He doesn't use Windex, though. He uses car window cleaner, as Windex contains ammonia. I just wipe mine down, too. Not a speck of rust. But as long as you do dry them properly, Windex, even with ammonia, wouldn't be an issue.
Well thank you for the correction! I will update my practice. I must have misheard or “over lumped” automotive window cleaner to just “window cleaner” 😂
@@NorthwestCraftsman I did too, then specifically remembered he'd mentioned it. Just an extra precaution, I guess. I'm now initialising my new extra course plate following your method. Thank you.
I purchased a set of 3 DMT stones (220, 600, 1200) several years ago. Excellent product. My water stones don’t see daylight. A few drops of dish detergent into a spray bottle with water is all you need and you already have it in the house. 🇨🇦👍👨🦳
@@ureasmith3049the three stone set mentioned will run you $92.cad plus a 15% tax at Lee Valley in Canada. That equals a total of $320.cad. A serious investment for some but you only get what you pay for and sometimes you don’t get that. Lifetime replacement but whose life? 🇨🇦👨🦳👍
Shouldn't you be making sure that enough of your plane blade is flat, so that there's no space between the blade and the chip breaker breaker? Like up to about 5mm? Like 2-3mm of the blade that's protruding, and then another 2-3mm that sits under the chip breaker? Or maybe a bit more if it's a scrub plane where the chip breaker sits back a bit further? I'm not an expert by any means, I'm just asking out of curiosity..
Thanks for your comment! I wouldn’t say I’m an expert either, learning all the time. You’re totally right that you should make sure the back is flat and that there is no space between your chip breaker and iron. In a perfect world, I would have flattened the entire back but in my case, I only did the from cm or so because that’s where my chip breaker makes contact. Using the small shim allowed me to focus on the front, which was enough for what I need. But you are right, having a flat back is crucial.
Yes you should. And while raising the back, which isn't wrong, it will change the effective edge on an up right plane. It Is generally not recommended for low angle planes. You should match your angles, including your back bevel, to the work at hand.
I don’t use water like this anymore but they didn’t rust because of it either. I dry them off with a paper towel and then let them air dry and they seem just fine.
This is fantastic Josh. Amazing work! Excellent delivery too. You got a lifelong fan, don’t ever stop. I got more to watch. See ya on the flip side. 😀
Thanks! I appreciate your kind words 😊
Don't overcomplicate things. These plates don't need a break-in nearly as much as some of the TH-camrs make it out to be. Just use them a few times normally and they break in naturally.
Yeah, I could get behind this. I have so few tools that would actually be sensitive to the break-in that I agree it may not be worth it.
I just bought same stone from same company. Very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks for posting, very helpful! If you heat the strop a bit the compound sticks much better.
Thanks! And that’s a great tip!
I didn't know that, thanks!
Now I know how to start with the same kit. Thanks.
Glad to help!
I just bought this set. I appreciate your video - very clear instructions, and good tips. Can't wait to get started tomorrow - thank you!
Glad to hear it! Thanks for the compliment and it’s great to have you around!
you probably dont care but does any of you know a trick to log back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid forgot the password. I would love any tips you can give me!
@Bo Maddox Instablaster :)
@Zaid Jaxton thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Zaid Jaxton it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass!
Thanks Josh! I just got the exact same set. Appreciate you showing the break in process. Thanks again. 👍🇺🇸👍🇺🇸
Take care.
Absolutely! I’m glad you found it useful and hope you enjoy your plates as much as I have. Take care and we’ll see you around!
Be careful what cleaning/degreaser products you use for those diamond plates bc some can make the nickel plating that holds diamonds brittle prematurely and you can lose diamonds in process. I know they also provide lubrication to prevent sticking of things to be sharpened and provide some glide. I use a few drops of regular dawn in a 8-16 oz spray bottle. Works wonderfully while sharpening and to clean w plastic bristled kitchen brush afterwards for cleanup. Also you could use a little mineral oil w old toothbrush (after you apply crayon to strop dry) to get the chromium oxide crayon to spread on leather strop a little better. It’ll melt the Crayon to distribute onto leather but of course you need to give it some time for leather to absorb mineral oil and layer of crox. Hairdryer helps to heat leather and make it absorb oil faster to drying.
Good to know! Thanks for the additional tips as well
@@NorthwestCraftsman I don’t know about crud cutter but I’ve heard of people using it to degreaser natural stones. It was bar keepers friend that I saw in a video right before yours warning of some type of acid chemical reaction with nickel. I was thinking of purchasing some for my arks n atoma bc I assumed it was safe reading through blade forums n seeing videos of people using it on their plates just thought I’d pass it along. Guess I’ll just stick to trusty ole dawn. One other thing it doesn’t take much at all for the chromium oxide to have a great affect. Just think sometimes less is more.
Oh yea, bar keepers friend has oxalic acid in it to help polish stainless so that wouldn’t shock me at all. I think you’re right that a mixture of Dawn would be the safest option.
@@NorthwestCraftsman it just now dawned on me that it was fiebing’s neatsfoot compound oil that I used to help spread chrome oxide crayon. Pure Neatsfoot oil isn’t cheap and better overall for the leather but the compound is cheaper n not as pure as pure neatsfoot oil but it’s still just as thin for an oil ; thinner than most mineral oils n great for leather. I’ve been putting it on work boots for 20+ years now, two pairs of redwings n one thorogoods for over 10-15 years and they’re still holding up on me. It’s made from the hooves and shinbones of cows I believe.
Fascinating! I’ll have to check it out!
I just got these stones. For whatever reason I’m intimidated by the break in directions. Oddly enough I found a rusty cleaver to use also. Did you use the cleaver on all 3 stones before the plane iron?
Totally understand the apprehension. They are pretty big investment, and my nerves made me not want to screw it up. However, after using them for a long time now, they are far more robust than I initially gave them credit for. You will have a difficult time hurting them unless you let them rust. To answer your question though, I did use the cleaver on all three stones before sharpening any of my tools on them. Kind of humorous having a shaving sharp cleaver 😂 did that help to answer your question?
@@NorthwestCraftsman yes thank you for replying. ok, i'm gonna do it, today is the day.
@Thomas, how’d the plates work out for you?
A break-in is not nearly as necessary as so many of these TH-camrs want you to believe. Just use the plates and they will break in naturally after a few uses. It really is that simple
Do you get a polished finish on the back of your chisels? I just bought these and the finish after going 300/600/1200 they don't seem as polished as when I used sandpaper on a piece of glass.
I was able to achieve the polished finish after using the 3 plates, like you said, plus a leather strop. Stropping the back is difficult though because the corners of your chisel can gouge the strop. If you need wicked precise edges then I’d try for the polished back, for most of my work though, taking it to the 1200 plate is sufficient.
Just in case you need it
Leather Strop: amzn.to/35AB6Pm
I bought a 3.5 inch chisel but only plan on using the edge for the break in process. Not the flat part. Do you think that will work okay?
That should work just fine. Only downside is you may not have a "perfect" edge to start with but it should be totally functional.
Did you have any rust issues? When I've read rinse, I didn't think it meant to completely submerge the stones in water.
Great question! And nope! I dry them off when I’m done and then let them air dry for a day before putting them back in their case.
@@NorthwestCraftsman Great, thanks.
Excellent. Thank You.
Glad you found it helpful!
I got a DMT duosharp and how would I break it in? I don't want to mess it up. It says just add water or dry but want to make sure.
I can’t speak directly to DMT’s since I don’t own any but if they’re like my diamond plates, the biggest thing is keeping them dry once you’re done so they don’t rust.
@@NorthwestCraftsmanI have four DMT single sided plates. If you go to the DMT website you will see a host of questions posted that will answer any of your concerns. The stones shown here are probably less expensive than the Dia-Sharp brand . I spoke to DMT customer service recently to verify that they have a “lifetime warranty” which is comforting to know, none of these stones last forever. The more you use them , the quicker they wear. If you hone a micro bevel to your plane irons and chisels, all you need is a leather strop with occasional use of the finer grit stones.
DMT is top grade.
FOLLOW their directions.
Mine work perfectly.
Buy once, cry once.
Can you tell please where these stones are made in?
They’re made in the USA
@@NorthwestCraftsman thanks so much! Do you know the real weight of one plate? Description says it is more then 2 pounds. Is it real numbers?
I would have to weigh it when I get home, 2 pounds seems about right for all three plates together. I would guess that each plate is just over a half a pound.
Windex will cause rust as it contains ammonia. As an alternative to Krud Kleaner, just use a car window cleaner as these don't contain ammonia as it would destroy window tint.
Krud Kleaner does work great, I started with this but it wasn't my favorite to work with so I moved to windex as suggested by Paul Sellers. I will admit I don't use my stones as regularly as I should but personally I haven't run into any rusting issues. I do dry my stones after using them though, so I may be mitigating it that way.
@@NorthwestCraftsman yes I got my info from there, too (pretty much all my woodworking knowledge 😁)
He doesn't use Windex, though. He uses car window cleaner, as Windex contains ammonia. I just wipe mine down, too. Not a speck of rust. But as long as you do dry them properly, Windex, even with ammonia, wouldn't be an issue.
Well thank you for the correction! I will update my practice. I must have misheard or “over lumped” automotive window cleaner to just “window cleaner” 😂
@@NorthwestCraftsman I did too, then specifically remembered he'd mentioned it. Just an extra precaution, I guess. I'm now initialising my new extra course plate following your method. Thank you.
I was gonna get a 3 stone set from DMT but this 3 stone set a good value for 117 bucks.
Totally agree, this stone set has been a worthwhile investment.
I purchased a set of 3 DMT stones (220, 600, 1200) several years ago. Excellent product. My water stones don’t see daylight. A few drops of dish detergent into a spray bottle with water is all you need and you already have it in the house. 🇨🇦👍👨🦳
@richardc6932 I ordered the three stone set while it was on sale. Been great using for my woodworking tools.
@@ureasmith3049the three stone set mentioned will run you $92.cad plus a 15% tax at Lee Valley in Canada. That equals a total of $320.cad. A serious investment for some but you only get what you pay for and sometimes you don’t get that. Lifetime replacement but whose life? 🇨🇦👨🦳👍
Shouldn't you be making sure that enough of your plane blade is flat, so that there's no space between the blade and the chip breaker breaker? Like up to about 5mm? Like 2-3mm of the blade that's protruding, and then another 2-3mm that sits under the chip breaker?
Or maybe a bit more if it's a scrub plane where the chip breaker sits back a bit further?
I'm not an expert by any means, I'm just asking out of curiosity..
Thanks for your comment! I wouldn’t say I’m an expert either, learning all the time. You’re totally right that you should make sure the back is flat and that there is no space between your chip breaker and iron. In a perfect world, I would have flattened the entire back but in my case, I only did the from cm or so because that’s where my chip breaker makes contact. Using the small shim allowed me to focus on the front, which was enough for what I need. But you are right, having a flat back is crucial.
Check out the ruler trick by David Charlesworth.
Yes you should. And while raising the back, which isn't wrong, it will change the effective edge on an up right plane. It Is generally not recommended for low angle planes. You should match your angles, including your back bevel, to the work at hand.
Still recommend these stones after a year?
Absolutely! They still work incredibly well and look like they do a year ago.
@@NorthwestCraftsman good to hear!
I would have removed the all the rest before I sharpened
Can you explain more why you mean by this? I’m not sure what all the rest refers to?
Well, that just makes me want to say: Diamond stones are a boys best friend!
Do you agree?!
Hahaha, couldn’t agree more! 😂
Ditto the prior comment!
Wait…You are washing your steel in…water? The micro pores of the metal are gonna fill with rust….I wouldn’t want to start that process!
I don’t use water like this anymore but they didn’t rust because of it either. I dry them off with a paper towel and then let them air dry and they seem just fine.
Very useful video! Liked and sub'd (incuding bell) :-)
You’re the best! 😄 glad you found the video useful!
Your ruining your plane irons with that back bevel...
Well thanks for calling me out! Can you help me understand how?
John 13:15, 34.