This helped a lot. I had a tutorial in pictures but the video makes it clearer. One or two things to point out when you try this. When you take out the aperture assembly, place a mark in the bottom plate opposite the rod in the top plate. There are 7 possible ways to replace the top plate and only one works properly when you reassemble it. Also mark the front plastic piece that the front trim ring screws into or the logo will not center properly. My lens once again works properly. Be patient with that aperture assembly. It fall apart easily and is quite frustrating to get back in without knocking a blade or two loose. To remove the split ring. I ground down an old small screwdriver to nearly a point and it worked great. Thanks for the video.
Casual Photophile Unfortunately, I did not mark my aperture assembly and spent about 2 hours of frustration trying to get it in there correctly. I knocked the blades loose many, many times until I found the right alignment. My bad.
Thanks for this tutorial - helped me a lot. My tip is to reinstall the assembly with thumb through open aperture to stop it falling apart. Also, use fingers through the aperture to hold it firm while lock ring is replaced. Unfortunately I didn't get the alignment quite right so it's overexposing by about 1/3 stop. It would be brilliant if you could make another short video (or just some stills) showing the correct alignment of the aperture lever, at wide-open position, when installed correctly in the lens body. Cheers!
+laytekk Had the exact same experience. Thanks for the tips (thumb and holding while placing lock ring), after several attempts, I succeeded, only to find out after reassembling, that I couldn't use f/22. Figured there's something wrong with the alignment and started over. When placing the aperture "top disc" (that one with the pin), make sure the pin (with aperture open) is closest to one of the three outmost ridges of the "bottom disc". Those need to fall into the corresponding notches of the housing. Once locked, check that the pin is able to move all the way up and down and you should be good. (Edit: just realised you wrote months ago =)
Thanks so much for this. I got mine working again just fine. I'd preferably have read the comment section before I started. Also, I struggled (or perhaps even failed) getting the lenses perfectly clean. Not as easy as one might think. =) Happy shooting!
Great tutorial. Toughest part was re-installing aperture blades using a suitable holder. Several failed attempts, but eventual success. Lens works as new. Thanks.
Thanks a lot for the tutorial! Anyway, it was a bit too tricky for me, so I sent it away to have it professionally cleaned. It came back with spots on the aperture blades, even though they looked like “dry” spots, not shiny like before. The person that cleaned the lens told me that this is normal, that the oil leaves some dry traces that are visible when you move the lens to a certain angle. I can’t tell if this is the truth since I never cleaned oily aperture blades myself. What do you think?
Brother, I have this same lens but for some reason I can't find the exact model of mine in the internet. It is "Minolta Maxxum 50mm f1.7 af" but the focus ring is made of rubber. I followed a tutorial in a site but when I opened, it was a little different. The back element is sealed and doesn't have any screws as every video shows. So I decided to close it again, I followed the reassemble tutorial and when I placed it on my camera... It was a macro lens. Now I don't know how to properly adjust the focus by rotating the inside of the lens. Can you help me?
I got the RS version of this lens... and the ring holding the diaphragm seems to be glued from factory. Also, the rear lens element is one piece with the barrel. I cant that ring out of barrel. Any ideas?
Not personally familiar with the RS version, but any glue holding lens retainers in place can usually be wiggled free and replaced with new glue. Sorry I can't help more!
Hello, I have a real hard time getting the front bezel off. What diameter ist that rubber thing you used? I tried with rubber gloves, but it just wont come off...
Hi there, The diameter is approximately 49mm. I would think that it would be very difficult without a suitable implement such as the one I used. You can buy them online if you search for "Rubber Lens Removal Tool", or something similar. The nameplate on certain lenses can also be removed with spanner wrench, or a caliper. Hope this helps!
Casual Photophile Hello, I bought other rubber gloves and finally, I was successful. Now when you reassemble the aperture and insert it, is tehre a special orientation needed? the blades must be closed right, and what about the Mover Pin?
Hi Luke, Yes you can use 100%, it will likely work even better. Placing it directly in the alcohol just helps get the heavy stuff off, but you will have to disassemble the iris completely and wipe each blade, and blade holder individually as well. I would soak it for just a minute or so and maybe scrub it with a Q-tip gently before cleaning the individual components. Hope this helps.
Casual Photophile thanks mate. I did my Minolta 1,4 all good thanks to you! (and this www.pbase.com/pganzel/disassembly_repair_of_maxxum_50mm_lens) I have one question . I also did my 1.7 and when I put it back together and trying it out I can see than when shooting at 1.7 and 2.0 the aperture is wide open . after going above 2 it starts to close . is this normal ? if not what have I done wrong ? thanks mate
luke massoud When installing the aperture assembly you need to make sure that it's in the same position that it was in when you removed it. It's best to mark the assembly and the barrel so that when you install it you can line them up perfectly. It can be tricky, but to get it dialed in you may have to open them up and rotate the diaphragm a bit. Hope this helps.
The only way is to measure the diameter of the aperture at certain f-stops and compare these measurements to the known dimensions of a correctly adjusted diaphragm. I don't remember the diameter off hand, but the best way is to set it at f-16 and then turn the assembly until the diaphragm closes to the correct measurement. You'll need a pair of calipers to measure this.
Cleaning fungus is tough. You need to get to the glass that's affected and try to polish the fungus away with alcohol, Q-tip, or lens cleaning pads. If it's affected the coated part of the element you may end up damaging the optical coating, but it's better to try and fail than do nothing. Good luck!
Was it that difficult to make a video in focus in 2014? Don’t make it sound like it was 30 years ago. You must have reviewed it before posting, didn’t you?
D X for me, yes. In 2014 I started my website with $0. I couldn’t afford anything. I put out camera articles and reviews and this terrible video for free and made no money doing it, just to try to help out other photo geeks. I did my best.
This helped a lot. I had a tutorial in pictures but the video makes it clearer. One or two things to point out when you try this. When you take out the aperture assembly, place a mark in the bottom plate opposite the rod in the top plate. There are 7 possible ways to replace the top plate and only one works properly when you reassemble it. Also mark the front plastic piece that the front trim ring screws into or the logo will not center properly. My lens once again works properly. Be patient with that aperture assembly. It fall apart easily and is quite frustrating to get back in without knocking a blade or two loose.
To remove the split ring. I ground down an old small screwdriver to nearly a point and it worked great.
Thanks for the video.
I'm glad it helped, and thanks for the additional tips.
Casual Photophile Unfortunately, I did not mark my aperture assembly and spent about 2 hours of frustration trying to get it in there correctly. I knocked the blades loose many, many times until I found the right alignment. My bad.
Thanks for this tutorial - helped me a lot. My tip is to reinstall the assembly with thumb through open aperture to stop it falling apart. Also, use fingers through the aperture to hold it firm while lock ring is replaced. Unfortunately I didn't get the alignment quite right so it's overexposing by about 1/3 stop. It would be brilliant if you could make another short video (or just some stills) showing the correct alignment of the aperture lever, at wide-open position, when installed correctly in the lens body. Cheers!
+laytekk Had the exact same experience. Thanks for the tips (thumb and holding while placing lock ring), after several attempts, I succeeded, only to find out after reassembling, that I couldn't use f/22. Figured there's something wrong with the alignment and started over. When placing the aperture "top disc" (that one with the pin), make sure the pin (with aperture open) is closest to one of the three outmost ridges of the "bottom disc". Those need to fall into the corresponding notches of the housing. Once locked, check that the pin is able to move all the way up and down and you should be good. (Edit: just realised you wrote months ago =)
@@Willyster very helpful! Thanks a lot
Thank you very much for a helpful video.
Also for keeping quite and just performing the tasks and guiding only with short and relevant captions.
Thank you very much for this tutorial buddy!!! It was pretty frustrating, but worth the effort!! Now i have a fully working lens :D
Thanks so much for this. I got mine working again just fine. I'd preferably have read the comment section before I started. Also, I struggled (or perhaps even failed) getting the lenses perfectly clean. Not as easy as one might think. =) Happy shooting!
Great tutorial. Toughest part was re-installing aperture blades using a suitable holder. Several failed attempts, but eventual success. Lens works as new. Thanks.
Thanks a lot for the tutorial! Anyway, it was a bit too tricky for me, so I sent it away to have it professionally cleaned. It came back with spots on the aperture blades, even though they looked like “dry” spots, not shiny like before. The person that cleaned the lens told me that this is normal, that the oil leaves some dry traces that are visible when you move the lens to a certain angle. I can’t tell if this is the truth since I never cleaned oily aperture blades myself. What do you think?
this was a big help. i recently bought one of these lenses off ebay for $20 and the blades were oily.
Thank you for the tutorial! Very Helpful
Brother, I have this same lens but for some reason I can't find the exact model of mine in the internet. It is "Minolta Maxxum 50mm f1.7 af" but the focus ring is made of rubber. I followed a tutorial in a site but when I opened, it was a little different. The back element is sealed and doesn't have any screws as every video shows. So I decided to close it again, I followed the reassemble tutorial and when I placed it on my camera... It was a macro lens. Now I don't know how to properly adjust the focus by rotating the inside of the lens. Can you help me?
Wooow que paciencia te admiro, saludos de mexico
Step 3 draw the owl. To be fair looks like a fairly forgiving lens
Rewelacyjny Materiał-Dziękuję - Thanks :)
Thanks for upload, helped me a lot.
I failed on inserting the diaphragm for about 30 times :D
That's the hardest part. I'm glad the video helped!
@@CasualPhotophile in truth you have not calibrated the blades well,with your method the diaphragm will not be fully open.
I got the RS version of this lens... and the ring holding the diaphragm seems to be glued from factory. Also, the rear lens element is one piece with the barrel. I cant that ring out of barrel. Any ideas?
Not personally familiar with the RS version, but any glue holding lens retainers in place can usually be wiggled free and replaced with new glue. Sorry I can't help more!
Hello,
I have a real hard time getting the front bezel off. What diameter ist that rubber thing you used? I tried with rubber gloves, but it just wont come off...
Hi there, The diameter is approximately 49mm. I would think that it would be very difficult without a suitable implement such as the one I used. You can buy them online if you search for "Rubber Lens Removal Tool", or something similar. The nameplate on certain lenses can also be removed with spanner wrench, or a caliper. Hope this helps!
Casual Photophile Hello, I bought other rubber gloves and finally, I was successful. Now when you reassemble the aperture and insert it, is tehre a special orientation needed? the blades must be closed right, and what about the Mover Pin?
how long do you leave it in the isopropyl for ? and can i use 100% isopropyl ? thanks for the vid
Hi Luke, Yes you can use 100%, it will likely work even better. Placing it directly in the alcohol just helps get the heavy stuff off, but you will have to disassemble the iris completely and wipe each blade, and blade holder individually as well. I would soak it for just a minute or so and maybe scrub it with a Q-tip gently before cleaning the individual components. Hope this helps.
Casual Photophile thanks mate. I did my Minolta 1,4 all good thanks to you! (and this www.pbase.com/pganzel/disassembly_repair_of_maxxum_50mm_lens) I have one question . I also did my 1.7 and when I put it back together and trying it out I can see than when shooting at 1.7 and 2.0 the aperture is wide open . after going above 2 it starts to close . is this normal ? if not what have I done wrong ? thanks mate
luke massoud When installing the aperture assembly you need to make sure that it's in the same position that it was in when you removed it. It's best to mark the assembly and the barrel so that when you install it you can line them up perfectly. It can be tricky, but to get it dialed in you may have to open them up and rotate the diaphragm a bit. Hope this helps.
Casual Photophile i did this but my markings became ambiguous and I am a bit paranoid it might be out. is there a way of verifying if its okay ?
The only way is to measure the diameter of the aperture at certain f-stops and compare these measurements to the known dimensions of a correctly adjusted diaphragm. I don't remember the diameter off hand, but the best way is to set it at f-16 and then turn the assembly until the diaphragm closes to the correct measurement. You'll need a pair of calipers to measure this.
You are a ninja!
I need to clean fungus from this lens. What do you recomend? flic.kr/p/pKKws7
Cleaning fungus is tough. You need to get to the glass that's affected and try to polish the fungus away with alcohol, Q-tip, or lens cleaning pads. If it's affected the coated part of the element you may end up damaging the optical coating, but it's better to try and fail than do nothing. Good luck!
Casual Photophile Thanks man. I will try.
Iam not an expert, please reply.
Why problem oily aperture blade?
The grease that's used to lubricate the focusing heliocoid can migrate to the aperture iris assembly over time.
Helpful video. But men. Work on you focus next time..
Thanks for this frustrating, out of focus video.
Sorry. I'll go back to 2014 and tell myself that I disappointed you.
Was it that difficult to make a video in focus in 2014? Don’t make it sound like it was 30 years ago. You must have reviewed it before posting, didn’t you?
D X for me, yes. In 2014 I started my website with $0. I couldn’t afford anything. I put out camera articles and reviews and this terrible video for free and made no money doing it, just to try to help out other photo geeks. I did my best.