Great tip! Fast and accurate. Screwing around with the cardboard shims takes much longer and is harder to get perfect. THANKS! Also, I really appreciate that you get right down to it in your videos. No 10 minutes of blah-blah-blah like many youtube vids. Much appreciated!
Thank you! Your videos, even though very short, they’re so accurate to answer all the questions -it’s like watching a dart game. You hit the bull’s-eye every time.
My guess, there are few reasons, weight of cement board too much for thinset on studs to carry before you can screw it to the stud, another deal is stiffness of cement board will squish thin-set as you work on aligning it with level, and of course it won’t spring back. Foam board is very lightweight from that perspective. Now me thinking, how to plumb cement boards on skewed studs? Quick guess to get set of new studs and screw them plum next to existing studs and hang drywall on new (plumb) studs.
@fartpoobox ohyeah I have a gap of 3/4” between the shower base back edge and the wall. AND this gap is not consistent so one one side it’s 3/4” and on other end it’s 1/4”. So o need to do wet shin AND build up this gap so my final hardie back goes on the shower base flange nicely. Any suggestions??
@@tothepointvids5192 I wouldn’t try to fill 3/4” with wet shim. I think I’d probably sister the studs to get them out to the right place and only wet shim the 1/4” one.
Once a long time ago. Had a major pitch or settling on a wood flr. 1800'sbuilding. I used same thinset and cement board and screwed down . Worked like a charm
@@swamphox1 I bet you could successfully wet shim cement board in that first scenario where the middle stud was bowed in. Just slather the middle stud, then screw the board into the two outer studs, get the middle flat with the level and let it set up before adding the remaining screws. Getting the whole sheet plumb would be a nightmare with cement board. In that case, it'd be way better to use solid shims on the studs before the board goes up.
Yes seen a schluter video on this 5 years ago... Used to do it but I'd mostly use the sister stud method so I can start tiling same day instead of waiting for the thinset to cure........ But great video....... Keep them coming
Great idea. I have a 100+ year old home and every wall is out of whack. This is a great idea to save time and money!!! Thank you!!! Keep up the GREAT WORK!!
Just started doing this about a year ago 🤣 been doing tile for 14 .. thinking of all the wasted mortar I used skimming out the wall after the boards were on! Lol great video
Hmmm....do you mean you’re 82 and doing this for 68 years? What celebrities have you done work for? That being the case you do high end work, like Landberg.
Incredible timing! I started a bathroom project a few weeks ago and got stuck trying to figure out how to level the studs. Going to do this tonight to continue the project!
Great video for the new comers to save them some time, I've been doing this since shluter approved this method. Saves so much time and headaches! Tile on brother!!!
This video was recommended. I clicked on it thinking "What is this dude going to show me that I already don't know...." I was shown up! The egg is on my face. Cheers!
Great tip. I will try on concrete backer board BUT with redgard on the studs and a brush width of redgard on the back of the backer board. Time? I'll check and prep the walls before starting the concrete shower pan. Personally I don't like foam boards, too flimsy, too expensive. I also have a planer for high spots.
How does that work if the drywall at the interface of wall and shimmed shower wall are then at two different planes? Thanks, your videos are always clear and concise.
It wouldn’t work apart from the back wall, as you say the shower would be plumb and the intersecting point with the wall outside the shower wouldn’t be, in saying that this method can still be used to take the “belly” out of the wall at least.
@@tarmization yes but the point is if the wall is around a 1/4” or so out of plumb then you’ll see it on your tile edge no matter how far you tile over the intersecting edge.
Another great video! Curious to why this can only be done with foam boards? Is it because the cementicious boards would absorb moisture cause the boards to be pulled in?
@@PoisonJarl71501 you might be right. The other thought I had was some of the cementicious boards tend to have a curvature to them that may need a true frame to pull them true.
You can use this method with Hardibacker. I’ve been doing so for a couple years now. Once thinset is on the studs, use a Level and Mellot. Tap te areas necessary to achieve a level board. Only use two or three screws to hold the board in place and do not countersink. After the thinset is dry, apply the necessary amount of screws and Counter sink. I havnt had any problems yet.
Great video But just want to say that you can use screws on your hardy board or your green drywall if you’re using Schlueter waterproofing system just don’t run your screws all the way in just enough to hold the board in place been doing it for years works great after the thin set sets then you go back and sit all your screws
You do sink the screws after the mud sets up The reason you put screws in half way at first is the hold the board in place to keep it plumb and flat after mud sets up then you go back and sink your screws in FYI : your not following the true contour of stud when wet shimming there’s a reason y your wet shimming in the first place the true contour of the stud is out of wack
I knew Schluter says you can use this procedure, was hoping it would work on Goboard as well, since they are the same types of material. Thanks for the video. Will have to buy some longer screws to make up the difference of the added thinset.
Why would you take a chance of the thin set braking out. Just sister a new stud to the bad one. You don’t have to Wait for the thin set to set up or worry about issues down the road.
I think the wet shim technique was initially promoted by Schulter after they came out with their own thinset. They obviously want to sell more thinset. Depending on the size of the wall it might be cheaper than sistering 2x4s.
Wow! This is fabulous! I have been taking time to install masonary packers where it's been bowed in and plan where it's been bowed out. This is just amazing. I highly appreciate this valuable point and am about to subscribe to your channel. My only question about installing backing board is that I'm mainly relying on the stud adhesive (even liquid nail) to keep the board permanently on the studs not screws. Having said that, how can I do this technique and while the glue is set then put all the screws? I see screws as temporary fasteners to hold the board while the permanent element is being set. I'd really appreciate if you could please help. Thank you kindly,
What’s the best way to level the wall if using cement board? I wanted to use Kerdi for the new project but decided to keep cost low with cement board. Thanks
Like your vids man. Just tried this the other day wet shimming ON hardie board. You say not to!?? Why not? Although It seemed easier than with the foam I did this week. was the one on hardie board compromised ??
I wish you posted this video 1.5 year earlier or I knew this before hand at least. It was a pain in the rear to tile on uneven kerdi board. I did however tiled it but the tiles are slightly curved. Good job pointing this out. Lesson learnt the hard way. For all DYI'ers bathroom remodels are a pure pain. you will miss many things which experienced people would look after. There is not just a list, there are many to look into. Unless you experience it, you do not know.
Ain’t that the truth. Lumber prices have went sky high. 2- 2/4-12’s cost me d almost $50 now. A price a gave for a deck job 4 months ago. I had to jack it up by $3500 only due to increased cost of mtl
@@mikek3951 it's pretty tough to keep up with the price hikes. I have having trouble with getting plumbing fixtures in a reasonable time frame now. Hard to schedule when it take 6 to 8 weeks to get shower valve trim.
@@BrentDarlington Lol I just went through that with Ferguson. Brizo trim They started with 2 weeks. Then 3. Then 4. It ended up 4 months. It’s getting bad for sure
Yes wood can be warped and twisted these days but if you sort through them you can get straight ones , his idea is great but doesn’t apply to me because I don’t use foam
Particular reason why cement board can't be used? If install allows for extra time....ie...place large fans circulating air heavily for 48 hours. I'm assuming it would have to relate to mold growth. Or if you were able to kilz mold guard your studs might that work also? Just curious. Thx
Plum the wall you’re tying into using the same method. Or if you’re talking about tying into the drywall where there’s a seam just make sure your tile over laps the seam a little and use schluter trim or pencil trim or whatever you use to hide any uneven spots. If the wall is so bad that won’t work you’re going to have to redo some drywall and shim it flush with the wall board, should only have to that at the seam so not a big deal. Hope that helps.
Why would you not be able to wet shim cement backer board? It would seem that this wet shim method would work with any type of board including drywall.
Agree. Just screw the outside studs so to hold it in place. Start the screws in the middle, check it, then wait a few hours to dry before screwing them down. Seems to me that would work anyway.
You can, it’s just rock is a lot heavier and will fall with no support while waiting to dry. If you k ow where your two high points are where the rock is going to squeeze out all the cement, than throw a couple screws into those to points to hold it up while your waiting for it to set
How thick of a gap can you use this mortar technique for? the top 1/4 of the wall is 5/8" off (that is area with the largest gap). Will this still work? Or should I shim it and then do the mortar?
I use Denshield all the time and twice now have left a piece of scrap in a bucket of water, once for a month. No water absorbed into the core, just as solid as it started. But I don't think Denglass has the same water resistant core.
Wow! I wish I saw it before putting up my boards. Just finished tilling my bathroom walls and I can assure u that installing tiles on out of plumb wall IS a nightmare! Thank you @landberg Why isn’t this method would work for a cement board though? 🤔
Quick question, why can't this be done with a cement backer board like permabase? I searched high and low for this answer and get conflicting results. My bathroom exterior wall is block here in Florida. Whoever laid the block did an uneven job, some blocks are recessed and others are protruding creating a wavy out of plumb wall when the furring strips are on. I ripped wood shims for the most part but would like to fill in some of the inconsistent spots with wet shims. Can this method be used for only certain areas? Thanks
Thanks for great video and I have a question. I appreciate the input This may sound stupid question but will the thinset mortar crack when you screw the foam board ? Will thinset crack when you now screw the Harris back over the foam board ? Or you won’t need the Harris backer to go over the foam board ? Here’s my case, I installed my shower pan/base and it is not squared to the back wall. The base is 60 “ wide x 36 inch deep. Now the on one end of the 60” width, there’s a gap between the shore base/pan and the wall of 1/4” and on the other end it’s 3/4” so I need to square whatever board go against and the studs AND bring it up flush with the shower bas’s lip/Flange Any input I’d appreciate
Wish I had seen this video before I installed my Goboard. I am stuck with a 1/8 bulge. I was thinking about using thinset and a screed. Welcome any ideas
You can also buy a couple of 2x4’s and sister them onto the existing studs and plumb them up which means you done have to wait 3-4 hours on anything setting.
@@patrickaustin8335 I just did it with wood shims and your right, wet shimming is way way easier even though you have to wait a while for the cement to dry. It's always a guess with wood shims and it's never perfect. I will be wet shimming from now on. I guess I should trust this channel, the guy is very good.
Wow I just came here to comment that as well, because I’m in the same situation. Currently using 1/2” Durock for a shower @@LandbergTileTV I am definitely interested in switching to GoBoard because it’s lighter, but I don’t know how to tell my customer 😂
could you do this on one of your remodel videos to see it in on a larger scale. maybe next time you run into a really out of wack wall. this seems faster than what i do. i use paint sticks and folded ram board with my brad nailer to do the same thing but can take hours if the wall is really bad.
Thinset on untreated wood studs? Is thinset not a cement product? Im thinking rot is an issue on the studs.. id redgard the face of the stud first.. moisture from the stud can escape the sides and back.. but the thinset won't pull all the moisture from the stud if there's a barrier
Been doing this for 25 years and this is by far the best advice i have ever got
Great tip! Fast and accurate. Screwing around with the cardboard shims takes much longer and is harder to get perfect. THANKS! Also, I really appreciate that you get right down to it in your videos. No 10 minutes of blah-blah-blah like many youtube vids. Much appreciated!
So much appreciation on this aspect!!
Thank you! Your videos, even though very short, they’re so accurate to answer all the questions -it’s like watching a dart game. You hit the bull’s-eye every time.
Great video, thank you...just curious, why can't you use hardy backer with this method?
My guess, there are few reasons, weight of cement board too much for thinset on studs to carry before you can screw it to the stud, another deal is stiffness of cement board will squish thin-set as you work on aligning it with level, and of course it won’t spring back. Foam board is very lightweight from that perspective.
Now me thinking, how to plumb cement boards on skewed studs? Quick guess to get set of new studs and screw them plum next to existing studs and hang drywall on new (plumb) studs.
@fartpoobox ohyeah Right. Schluter video for wet shim says use stiff mix for this problem.
@fartpoobox ohyeah
I have a gap of 3/4” between the shower base back edge and the wall. AND this gap is not consistent so one one side it’s 3/4” and on other end it’s 1/4”. So o need to do wet shin AND build up this gap so my final hardie back goes on the shower base flange nicely.
Any suggestions??
@@tothepointvids5192 I wouldn’t try to fill 3/4” with wet shim. I think I’d probably sister the studs to get them out to the right place and only wet shim the 1/4” one.
You take serious issues and in plain language teach us the way. Thank you for your efforts. I'll be linking some Amazon purchases thru you!
Once a long time ago. Had a major pitch or settling on a wood flr. 1800'sbuilding. I used same thinset and cement board and screwed down . Worked like a charm
Nice
Never thought of doing this before like that Did you say you can't use cement board would like to know why
Cement board is much heavier, so the thinset won't hold the board in place as you tap around getting the whole thing flat and plump.
That makes zero sense@@dwsolberg
@@swamphox1 I bet you could successfully wet shim cement board in that first scenario where the middle stud was bowed in. Just slather the middle stud, then screw the board into the two outer studs, get the middle flat with the level and let it set up before adding the remaining screws.
Getting the whole sheet plumb would be a nightmare with cement board. In that case, it'd be way better to use solid shims on the studs before the board goes up.
Done it for years on the floor but never thought wet shimming walls. Great idea thanks!👍👍
Over a plywood subflooring?
Yes seen a schluter video on this 5 years ago... Used to do it but I'd mostly use the sister stud method so I can start tiling same day instead of waiting for the thinset to cure........ But great video....... Keep them coming
Great idea. I have a 100+ year old home and every wall is out of whack. This is a great idea to save time and money!!! Thank you!!! Keep up the GREAT WORK!!
Thanks Randy!
Just learned something new... Talk about, thinking outside the box..
Great tip.
Thanks for posting...
Been tiling for years but love learning new tricks of the trade! Thanks brother!
From the man, the myth, Sal Diblasi. Great vid, and something I do all the time. 👍
Just started doing this about a year ago 🤣 been doing tile for 14 .. thinking of all the wasted mortar I used skimming out the wall after the boards were on! Lol great video
Appreciate the comment brother 👊
Well this something I never heard of before. Hell of a lot easier the shimming cardboard and wood. How is its longevity?
I'm 68 and been doing this for 82 years, big mansions, I do all of them, for celebrities mostly..... 😉 great video thanks for the tips!
Hmmm....do you mean you’re 82 and doing this for 68 years? What celebrities have you done work for? That being the case you do high end work, like Landberg.
Overtime
@@martylucas8557 Whoosh !! 🙄😂😂
Incredible timing! I started a bathroom project a few weeks ago and got stuck trying to figure out how to level the studs. Going to do this tonight to continue the project!
Awesome!
Same here
Shows your no expert
Love the wet shim method. Been doing it for about a year now
Please tell us why we can't wet shim cement board
What happens when the stud expands and contracts? Won’t the thinset separate from the stud?
It’ll adhere to the kerdi though and the kerdi is screwed down, so the thinset isn’t going anywhere.
Always shimmed out with wood I will be using this method here on out,great Idea thanks for the video
Great video for the new comers to save them some time, I've been doing this since shluter approved this method. Saves so much time and headaches! Tile on brother!!!
Fantastic, learn something new everyday. This will help me with my remodels for sure!
So glad I checked out this video. You impressed me with your solution to remedy both plumb and level shower walls. Great job!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks. Getting ready to drywall a bathroom. Will apply what I learned here.
Superb, would never have thought of that, cheers dude 👍
No problem 👍
Much easier than sistering. Thanks.
This video was recommended. I clicked on it thinking "What is this dude going to show me that I already don't know...." I was shown up! The egg is on my face. Cheers!
👊 Thanks for the watch and comment brother
Wow this saved my ass, my wall, and my time👍
Great tip. I will try on concrete backer board BUT with redgard on the studs and a brush width of redgard on the back of the backer board. Time? I'll check and prep the walls before starting the concrete shower pan. Personally I don't like foam boards, too flimsy, too expensive. I also have a planer for high spots.
Can use sub floor glue too
How does that work if the drywall at the interface of wall and shimmed shower wall are then at two different planes? Thanks, your videos are always clear and concise.
It wouldn’t work apart from the back wall, as you say the shower would be plumb and the intersecting point with the wall outside the shower wouldn’t be, in saying that this method can still be used to take the “belly” out of the wall at least.
You could just tile over the interface point by about an inch. Cut the drywall back if needed
@@tarmization yes but the point is if the wall is around a 1/4” or so out of plumb then you’ll see it on your tile edge no matter how far you tile over the intersecting edge.
Been doing that for 40+ years using scrap rolls of cheap sheet vinyl. Always had some in my truck. Sheetrock 45 works great too. Less downtime.
Thinset is far stronger than sheetrock 45. Would not recommend that
@@johndalton6929 It's just as a backer, not an adhesive. Board still gets screwed to studs. Sheetrock dries harder.
I've learned something today thank you faster than paper shims. Im gonna try it tomorrow
Awesome tip..... But why not cement board?
I do this with Uzin thinset and it works great. I had a wall so bad last year that the thin Kerdi board and thinset were used together.
Another great video! Curious to why this can only be done with foam boards? Is it because the cementicious boards would absorb moisture cause the boards to be pulled in?
I think the other boards are too rigid and the screws would pull the board tight to the stud and break the thin set out. Just guessing.
@@PoisonJarl71501 you might be right. The other thought I had was some of the cementicious boards tend to have a curvature to them that may need a true frame to pull them true.
Great question. I was thinking it was because of the weight. They are a lot heavier and they don’t go all the way to the ceiling.
You can use this method with Hardibacker. I’ve been doing so for a couple years now. Once thinset is on the studs, use a Level and Mellot. Tap te areas necessary to achieve a level board. Only use two or three screws to hold the board in place and do not countersink. After the thinset is dry, apply the necessary amount of screws and Counter sink. I havnt had any problems yet.
cement boards are too heavy for wet shimming. foam boards will hold in place and stay flat and plumb.
Great video But just want to say that you can use screws on your hardy board or your green drywall if you’re using Schlueter waterproofing system just don’t run your screws all the way in just enough to hold the board in place been doing it for years works great after the thin set sets then you go back and sit all your screws
That's an bs response
Obviously you don’t know what you’re doing stop tiling please
You are tripping... How does the board contour to the stud without sinking the head of the screw?? Do you specialize in floating tile?? Lol
You do sink the screws after the mud sets up
The reason you put screws in half way at first is the hold the board in place to keep it plumb and flat after mud sets up then you go back and sink your screws in
FYI : your not following the true contour of stud when wet shimming there’s a reason y your wet shimming in the first place the true contour of the stud is out of wack
You’re correct. I do this as well
I knew Schluter says you can use this procedure, was hoping it would work on Goboard as well, since they are the same types of material. Thanks for the video. Will have to buy some longer screws to make up the difference of the added thinset.
Thank for sharing your knowledge, one question here in south florida almost all studs are metal can this method be used with metal studs?
Maybe someone else would know, we don't have much experience with metal studs.
Not with metal studs. You will need to use shims or blobs of silicone
Why would you take a chance of the thin set braking out. Just sister a new stud to the bad one. You don’t have to Wait for the thin set to set up or worry about issues down the road.
Sal Diblasi does the same thing. It’s an excellent technic.
@@ikust007 I’ve been doing tile work 50 years. It’s something I wouldn’t do. I each is own. Don’t keep up with names so clueless to sal Diblasi is!
I think the wet shim technique was initially promoted by Schulter after they came out with their own thinset. They obviously want to sell more thinset. Depending on the size of the wall it might be cheaper than sistering 2x4s.
Use pl premium plus construction adhesive, that stuff makes good shim when dried up. It’s rock hard and sticks to anything.
Or just use a planer
Wow! This is fabulous! I have been taking time to install masonary packers where it's been bowed in and plan where it's been bowed out. This is just amazing. I highly appreciate this valuable point and am about to subscribe to your channel. My only question about installing backing board is that I'm mainly relying on the stud adhesive (even liquid nail) to keep the board permanently on the studs not screws. Having said that, how can I do this technique and while the glue is set then put all the screws? I see screws as temporary fasteners to hold the board while the permanent element is being set. I'd really appreciate if you could please help.
Thank you kindly,
Awesome tip brother. Do you recommend pilot hole into the mortar before screwing it down?
I like your Woody Woodpecker hammer where do you get one of those at PetSmart? Great idea
What’s the best way to level the wall if using cement board? I wanted to use Kerdi for the new project but decided to keep cost low with cement board.
Thanks
This works with cement board. I use a few screws to hold it were I want until dry then fully tighten and add more.
I was thinking to do this method with subfloor glue
Like your vids man. Just tried this the other day wet shimming ON hardie board. You say not to!?? Why not? Although It seemed easier than with the foam I did this week. was the one on hardie board compromised ??
Old video, I don't think it's an issue. People claim it sucks the moisture.
I wish you posted this video 1.5 year earlier or I knew this before hand at least. It was a pain in the rear to tile on uneven kerdi board. I did however tiled it but the tiles are slightly curved. Good job pointing this out. Lesson learnt the hard way. For all DYI'ers bathroom remodels are a pure pain. you will miss many things which experienced people would look after. There is not just a list, there are many to look into. Unless you experience it, you do not know.
What about the water soaking into the timber - warping it more?
I usually just sister up new studs if it's bad but with the price of lumber this is probably a cheaper option. Will have to try it, thanks!
Ain’t that the truth.
Lumber prices have went sky high.
2- 2/4-12’s cost me d almost $50 now.
A price a gave for a deck job 4 months ago. I had to jack it up by $3500 only due to increased cost of mtl
@@mikek3951 it's pretty tough to keep up with the price hikes. I have having trouble with getting plumbing fixtures in a reasonable time frame now. Hard to schedule when it take 6 to 8 weeks to get shower valve trim.
@@BrentDarlington
Lol I just went through that with Ferguson.
Brizo trim They started with 2 weeks. Then 3. Then 4. It ended up 4 months.
It’s getting bad for sure
Will the screws go right thru the motar?
Wow thats brilliant... Great video
That's gold Jerry... gold. 🙏
Thank you for the demonstration.
Question: why can’t you wetshim cement board?
I always just sister in new studs with a straight edge and level , but I use cement board
Sister it with a warped stud?? His way you can control it's a great idea.
Yes wood can be warped and twisted these days but if you sort through them you can get straight ones , his idea is great but doesn’t apply to me because I don’t use foam
Also much faster than waiting around for it to dry.
Fantastic video. Thanks man
So what do you do for hardie backer when studs or wooden wall is not plum
Particular reason why cement board can't be used? If install allows for extra time....ie...place large fans circulating air heavily for 48 hours. I'm assuming it would have to relate to mold growth. Or if you were able to kilz mold guard your studs might that work also? Just curious. Thx
I thinks its because the cement board will absorb the moisture before setting. I am using subfloor glue
Yup, it's absolutely necessary to flat and plumb!!
Dam. I never thought of that and I'm a pretty clever fella.
What do you do when you make your shower wall plum button the wall you’re tying into is not plum?
Plum the wall you’re tying into using the same method. Or if you’re talking about tying into the drywall where there’s a seam just make sure your tile over laps the seam a little and use schluter trim or pencil trim or whatever you use to hide any uneven spots. If the wall is so bad that won’t work you’re going to have to redo some drywall and shim it flush with the wall board, should only have to that at the seam so not a big deal. Hope that helps.
This is the best video I have found on how wet shim. Thank you! I now have the confidence to do this in my shower.
Why would you not be able to wet shim cement backer board? It would seem that this wet shim method would work with any type of board including drywall.
Agree. Just screw the outside studs so to hold it in place. Start the screws in the middle, check it, then wait a few hours to dry before screwing them down. Seems to me that would work anyway.
You can, it’s just rock is a lot heavier and will fall with no support while waiting to dry. If you k ow where your two high points are where the rock is going to squeeze out all the cement, than throw a couple screws into those to points to hold it up while your waiting for it to set
How thick of a gap can you use this mortar technique for? the top 1/4 of the wall is 5/8" off (that is area with the largest gap). Will this still work? Or should I shim it and then do the mortar?
yes, it will work
Could you address the possibility of getting a ridge where two boards meet. That way your wall is flat across different boards.
👌 Execelente como siempre , gracias por compartir tu experencia.
Gracias por mirar y comentar hermano
Can I use this method with durock ?
Yes you can
Is there a risk of the thinset crumbling over time; destabilizing the wall?
Never gonna happen
Can this be done with Denshield or Densglass?? I would appreciate some input. Thanks 🙏🏽
I don't see why not
I use Denshield all the time and twice now have left a piece of scrap in a bucket of water, once for a month. No water absorbed into the core, just as solid as it started. But I don't think Denglass has the same water resistant core.
Usually we would cut new studs inside and fix off level.
Less mess.
But I have done this method in past
Neat trick. Thanks for sharing!
Wow! I wish I saw it before putting up my boards. Just finished tilling my bathroom walls and I can assure u that installing tiles on out of plumb wall IS a nightmare!
Thank you @landberg
Why isn’t this method would work for a cement board though? 🤔
Ey broth I appreciate this amazing advice. Thank you so much . It will be very useful.
Excellent trick.
That's money right there Landberg. 👍
Omg!! I’m so happy I watched this! Thanks 🙏🏼
So glad!
Awesome video as always. Your voice very close to Duane Chapman ( The bounty hunter). Thanks for sharing the knowledge
Love that show, rip to his wife
Quick question, why can't this be done with a cement backer board like permabase? I searched high and low for this answer and get conflicting results. My bathroom exterior wall is block here in Florida. Whoever laid the block did an uneven job, some blocks are recessed and others are protruding creating a wavy out of plumb wall when the furring strips are on. I ripped wood shims for the most part but would like to fill in some of the inconsistent spots with wet shims. Can this method be used for only certain areas? Thanks
Great advice! I will try that technique.
Cool tip. I just sister a straight stud
And lumber prices are crazy right now; this is actually a cheaper option currently.....
Can foam insulation will work also. And u can use hardi board or foam board
Thanks for the lesson.
Thanks for great video and I have a question. I appreciate the input
This may sound stupid question but will the thinset mortar crack when you screw the foam board ? Will thinset crack when you now screw the Harris back over the foam board ? Or you won’t need the Harris backer to go over the foam board ?
Here’s my case, I installed my shower pan/base and it is not squared to the back wall. The base is 60 “ wide x 36 inch deep. Now the on one end of the 60” width, there’s a gap between the shore base/pan and the wall of 1/4” and on the other end it’s 3/4” so
I need to square whatever board go against and the studs AND bring it up flush with the shower bas’s lip/Flange
Any input I’d appreciate
No it will not. I've used this method on over 20 showers now.
Wish I had seen this video before I installed my Goboard. I am stuck with a 1/8 bulge. I was thinking about using thinset and a screed. Welcome any ideas
Brilliant!
Can you use wood shims instead of wet shimming?
You can
You can also buy a couple of 2x4’s and sister them onto the existing studs and plumb them up which means you done have to wait 3-4 hours on anything setting.
Yes but you might shim different increments top to bottom...wet shim it then conform to adjacent studs is easy and time efficient.
@@patrickaustin8335 I just did it with wood shims and your right, wet shimming is way way easier even though you have to wait a while for the cement to dry. It's always a guess with wood shims and it's never perfect. I will be wet shimming from now on. I guess I should trust this channel, the guy is very good.
Brother that is a fantastic technique. Do you wait until it’s totally set up before screwing down? As always thank you.
I personally get the screws started then come back later and finish driving the screws. Otherwise you're trying to drive a screw into hard thinset 🤔
We let it set for a couple hours or so, we always have plenty other things to do around the site, or take a long lunch!
@@LandbergTileTV thank you very much for the reply. Your show is invaluable and I greatly appreciate your content.
@@joefowler3106 hmmm not a bad idea. Thank you.
Hello, I love your channel. What's the reason I can't use cement board?
I'm sure you can, I've never tried it. Go Board is so cheap, might as well use that instead.
Wow I just came here to comment that as well, because I’m in the same situation.
Currently using 1/2” Durock for a shower
@@LandbergTileTV I am definitely interested in switching to GoBoard because it’s lighter, but I don’t know how to tell my customer 😂
Great info and advice as always.
could you do this on one of your remodel videos to see it in on a larger scale. maybe next time you run into a really out of wack wall. this seems faster than what i do. i use paint sticks and folded ram board with my brad nailer to do the same thing but can take hours if the wall is really bad.
Great tip and video brother, God bless!🙏🏻🙌🏻👍🏻
Question, how do you plumb and straighten cement board??
Thanks! and sister the studs or shims
@@LandbergTileTV
Oh ok, coo brother, I got it thx! 🙏🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the video. I don’t quite understand how to plumb the wall with this method. Do you apply the thinset thicker at one end?
Yes you do!
Thank god I’ve been wanting to you do This
Great idea I ❤. thanks you
So what do we do for cement board?
great tip man!!!!!, thats gonna save me a whack of time
What's the best thinset to use for this type of installation and would I need to use a primer before installing?
modified thinset and no primer needed 👊
Love your videos and explanations
Thinset on untreated wood studs? Is thinset not a cement product? Im thinking rot is an issue on the studs.. id redgard the face of the stud first.. moisture from the stud can escape the sides and back.. but the thinset won't pull all the moisture from the stud if there's a barrier
Can this be done with metal studs? Idk how metal studs are leaving a gap but they are…
Would this procedure work with dense shield?
That`s a nice life hack! However, what would you recommend for cement board sheeting, please?
Sister the studs
Use subfloor glue with this method
Thanks for the tips
Is there an upper limit to doing this? If I'm 1 3/4" off plumb for instance?