The Daddy 5.6 - Linville Gorge
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- I've wanted to do the Mummy - Daddy - Prow linkup in Linville for quite a while. On this last visit home to my family Jessica, Ed and I decided to try and make it happen. Nature had other plans for us though and it poured rain for several days before our arrival. There was a small lull in the weather so we decided to go to the base of Mummy Buttress and see if anything was climbable. Pretty much everything was a waterfall except for The Daddy and even that had multiple water streaks coming down from the top. I decided to give it a try though and was able to push through the very slippery water streaks to the top.
Route Beta:
I used a single rack to 3 and double .75, 1 , 2 . I also brought tricams and nuts. I would recommend doubles in the finger sizes .4 to .75 as they seemed to be more useful.
Be very careful with the rope drag on P2 traverse if you are linking and even if you are not. Any kind of gear placements in that section will create serious problems.
The dihedral on the last pitch is the crux and it takes .75 to 2 Camalots.
I climbed the Daddy 40 years ago. The exposure is insane. My favorite part was a moss covered ledge about 2/3 of the way up. We did the Mummy in the morning and the Daddy in the afternoon, finishing right before dark. Nine pitches in one day. What a blast!
This may be one of my favorite free solos in the gorge
Loved the way you pronounced bojangles lol. Good vid I’m definitely gonna steal your beta
I regretted multiple decisions that morning lol. Glad you enjoyed and I hope when you climb it the weather cooperates better than it did for us.
Great video! I did this last week in absolutely perfect conditions, so my hat's off to you for sending while it was so wet; that's totally awesome!
Thanks! In hindsight it was one of the sketchier things I’ve done but after doing the approach in the rain I was at least gonna try and send it.
Would never do this wet 😮 insane. Did this climb yesterday and it was amazing! Super easy & chill with so many characteristics. Perfect holds everywhere ❤
The moisture definitely tacked on a few grades of difficulty in many spots. Jealous you got to experience this one on a nice day!
Great video, thanks to this video I climbed the daddy last week (and was treated to the beautiful Viridian hues of the trees in the gorge)
I know it's been a little bit since you climbed this route, but in your estimation, how tough is the grading in North Carolina vs Vegas?
I want to do some multipitching in vegas in November but felt pretty spooked on a couple pitches on the daddy. Gear was a little more runout than i wanted.
Just wanted to know if it's like a one to one between this 5.6 vs a 5.6 in red rocks. (My goal is to climb armatron later this year)
If you want to kick it up a notch try the bumblebee buttress
Just looked that up on mountain project, thanks for the recommendation! I’m gonna add it to the list for when we go back. Hopefully we get some good weather. There seems to be a ton of good climbing around Linville Gorge to be had.
Let’s go
Apricot Jam is a really good one!!!