Crown stapler instead of screws, rails always cap the styles (so you can drop them around without ripping apart), no corner braces (on theater flats covered in canvas, yes) because the Lauan provides support strength and there are toggles every two feet (so you can easily estimate the dimension just by looking)
Well I see the know it alls again. Well for me, I enjoyed this video, because I can benefit from this construction technique in my new apartment. I plan to build a steel saddle to slide the panels into to hold them upright, this will allow the wall to not have to be connected to the floor or ceiling. No landlord issues. I plan to take one part of a long room and convert it into a walk in closet. Thanks for posting this video.
Depends on the size of flats you need and how resilient they have to be. If they're just for one or two shows, you can use much thinner lengths. I'm currently building a set with 18x45mm timbers. You can also take a risk on cheaper, more knotty timbers. These will not be as straight, but you'll just have to make it work. A particle board such as 3mm hardboard is a much cheaper alternative to the plywood Dan is using, but also not quite as flat. If you go to a timber store and pick your own materials, you will get better stuff than if you order by phone and let them choose.
No problem. My experience comes from trying to make lighter flats rather than cheaper ones. The key things that Dan doesn't mention in his video are: - The importance of building flats on a level surface. He has a workbench and a poured concrete floor, which he takes for granted as being level. If you're using cheaper timber, it will probably be a bit warped and you'll need to clamp it to a flat surface (or weigh it down) to get your joints square. - Nailing your sheet material to the frame by going around clockwise. Apparently this is the way to do it. Ikea wardrobes come with this instruction. I never really worked out why. And as has already been said, and this is especially true for lighter constructions, you don't need the diagonal braces. And to save even more, you can attach sheet timber to both sides to give you a more versatile flat. But then you would need to attach the rails some 2" below the tops of the stiles so you have a way of clamping the the things together.
as many have already commented- it is so odd that you can't find video examples of the correct, long standing method of flat construction: rails, stiles, toggles. every online example seems to have some strange, homespun twist, which may work fine, but are not the textbook standard.
Nooooooooooo! As Bill Nichols has already pointed out below, your rails should always cap the ends. This creates "sleds" for the flats to slide on. If you build your way, when the flats are slid or tipped on a corner, they are likely to either get caught on something, or they eventually rip apart.
Oops! The rails cover the ends of the stiles. They should be 48" and the stiles should be 94-1/2" and go in between the rails. Yes, even on Hollywood/TV flats this is still the correct construction for a flat.
Now although this works, this is not the correct way to build a hollywood style flat. There are two things right - it is framed on edge and choice of lumber. The criteria for a Hollywood style flat is that they must be framed on edge, the rails always cap the stiles, toggles are always placed every 4' on center, and nailing blocks are added on every 90° corner inside of the framing for added strength and support. There are no diagonal braces on a hollywood style flat.
If we built our flats this way sets would never be built on time...This is fine for small school projects but the fast pace world of TV and Film would not make the cut.
This is not a Hollywood flat. The Rails must CAP the stiles. This involves an extra cut on your cut list, but is CRITICAL in making an ACTUAL Hollywood flat.
Crown stapler instead of screws, rails always cap the styles (so you can drop them around without ripping apart), no corner braces (on theater flats covered in canvas, yes) because the Lauan provides support strength and there are toggles every two feet (so you can easily estimate the dimension just by looking)
This was a wonderful refresher for me...its been awhile since I've had to build one of these. Thank you for sharing.
Well I see the know it alls again. Well for me, I enjoyed this video, because I can benefit from this construction technique in my new apartment. I plan to build a steel saddle to slide the panels into to hold them upright, this will allow the wall to not have to be connected to the floor or ceiling. No landlord issues. I plan to take one part of a long room and convert it into a walk in closet. Thanks for posting this video.
i like the way you use the safety glasses
What facing material did you use for this project?
So how long are the corner braces?
Cool.thanks.
I'm a student I can't afford those materials or tools. Got any other alternatives?
Depends on the size of flats you need and how resilient they have to be. If they're just for one or two shows, you can use much thinner lengths. I'm currently building a set with 18x45mm timbers. You can also take a risk on cheaper, more knotty timbers. These will not be as straight, but you'll just have to make it work. A particle board such as 3mm hardboard is a much cheaper alternative to the plywood Dan is using, but also not quite as flat. If you go to a timber store and pick your own materials, you will get better stuff than if you order by phone and let them choose.
Greg Veit okay! Thanks allot for the guidelines, they're helpful
No problem.
My experience comes from trying to make lighter flats rather than cheaper ones.
The key things that Dan doesn't mention in his video are:
- The importance of building flats on a level surface. He has a workbench and a poured concrete floor, which he takes for granted as being level. If you're using cheaper timber, it will probably be a bit warped and you'll need to clamp it to a flat surface (or weigh it down) to get your joints square.
- Nailing your sheet material to the frame by going around clockwise. Apparently this is the way to do it. Ikea wardrobes come with this instruction. I never really worked out why.
And as has already been said, and this is especially true for lighter constructions, you don't need the diagonal braces.
And to save even more, you can attach sheet timber to both sides to give you a more versatile flat. But then you would need to attach the rails some 2" below the tops of the stiles so you have a way of clamping the the things together.
Greg Veit I will reference your advice and video when building #thanks
as many have already commented- it is so odd that you can't find video examples of the correct, long standing method of flat construction: rails, stiles, toggles. every online example seems to have some strange, homespun twist, which may work fine, but are not the textbook standard.
Nooooooooooo! As Bill Nichols has already pointed out below, your rails should always cap the ends. This creates "sleds" for the flats to slide on. If you build your way, when the flats are slid or tipped on a corner, they are likely to either get caught on something, or they eventually rip apart.
Oops! The rails cover the ends of the stiles. They should be 48" and the stiles should be 94-1/2" and go in between the rails. Yes, even on Hollywood/TV flats this is still the correct construction for a flat.
Now although this works, this is not the correct way to build a hollywood style flat. There are two things right - it is framed on edge and choice of lumber. The criteria for a Hollywood style flat is that they must be framed on edge, the rails always cap the stiles, toggles are always placed every 4' on center, and nailing blocks are added on every 90° corner inside of the framing for added strength and support. There are no diagonal braces on a hollywood style flat.
+z030n3r - You are correct, sir! I posted the same rail/stile info before I saw your post.
@z030n3r - Could you explain "nailing blocks"? I've been building flats for years and not sure your meaning. I'd definitely appreciate it. Thanks!
If we built our flats this way sets would never be built on time...This is fine for small school projects but the fast pace world of TV and Film would not make the cut.
thank you !
The top and bottom of your flats should be 4' wide and youre inside stiles should be 3'-101/2"
tnx
This is not a Hollywood flat. The Rails must CAP the stiles. This involves an extra cut on your cut list, but is CRITICAL in making an ACTUAL Hollywood flat.