Need to know the diameter a boring head is at and don't have a tool presetter? This old toolmakers trick takes much of the stress out of tight tolerance hole boring .
I don't have gauge blocks, but have evolved a similar method using a decent small grinding vice, checked as being suitably square and parallel, with a couple of strongish springs holding the jaws back against the thrust collar of the screw, and set to the desired size using inside mic, tele gauge, or bore gauge. So it's one more step away from a calibrated standard, but good enough for gummint work!
Oh my gosh Adam. Im loving the tips and tricks videos. This is a technique I would have never thought of. But makes perfect sense. Cheers from Australia
Absolutely fantastic. Elegantly, clearly, and concisely communicated. Thanks for taking the time to put this (and all of your videos!) together. Eye-opening, thought-provoking, and inspiring stuff.
You are definitely one of my favorite TH-camrs up there with Robin Renzetti. You're clearly a master machinist and for someone like me who's trying to learn as much as I can it's great to see procedures from someone like you because it gives me so much confidence when I know it's something that works for you. Thanks for this great video!
I love your channel. You do a really good job explaining what you're doing at why. Most tips and tricks videos on TH-cam are mostly for beginners. It's nice to have a channel that has a bigger range of skill level. Keep up the great work.
Haha! There should be a way to gently clamp a digital caliper in the milling vise and get you .0015 accuracy or a little better. Probably a headache though...
@@Bob_Adkins I think this approach requires two things, ability to set an accurate inside dimension, and that apparatus must be able to float in one axes. Calipers would work for pretty good dimension setting, though jaw faces are very narrow, but they’d need a base that could slide. Not sure clamped in a vise would work.
Very nice. I like that a lot of these machining tips have analogues in other fields. Thank you for expanding my tool box! I notice the care you took with the audio on this one. Thank you.
And you don't live next door. WHY😢 Mad skills for someone so young, and in the future, I will no longer set up the indicator on the tip of the tool and hope for the best. LOL
New to your channel. Loving your videos and presentation, many thanks. As to using a torque wrench, I use preset Fixit Stick small torque limiter. They say 6% accuracy over 20000 cycles but the units we had tested were within 2% after couple months of use. Used by Rocket Labs here in New Zealand in some of their rocket assembly. Might be an easy inline addition to your fixturing or insert screws.
TH-cam sometimes cancels new subscriptions. Some people see conspiracy in it, but I suspect a database sync bug. Anyway, a day or two after a new subscription, check again to be sure.
Very nice presentation. I'm a bit amazed your 50 millionth Bestest indicator is not showing any reversing hysteresis. I have two of those and both have about 150 millionth hysteresis on reverse on TIR measurements.
That's pretty clever. I don't have square guage blocks but I do have a set of precision milling arbor spacers which could work well enough for anything I might need to do on my old manual mill. Just have to make some suitable "ears"...
Come on Adam do a brother a solid here. When you say " digital boring head" drop a price so I sound reasonable to the dearly beloved when I say "ooooh look hun, a Narex boring head for sale ". Keep these great vids coming.
Adam I really appreciate how simple your solutions to seemingly difficult problems. I’m far from precision but this approach seems it would certainly make the process much more approachable and accurate. Thanks I will definitely give this a try. Also, if I am understanding your gauge block set up you are wringing your dimension between two larger blocks or is this a specific fixture you have made?
Suppose this could be done (more crudely, if you don't have gauge block ears handy) with a micrometer locked to a dimension, and and clamped or mounted on a movable base with the shaft horizontal?? Loved this trick! thanks Adam!
I never realized that’s the reason there’s a hole in the center of the gage blocks. Fascinating explanation and I’m certain will expand the capabilities of many. I know my idea of how to precision bore has changed forever. Thank you Adam 👍👍😎👍👍
Hey Adam. You just popped up on my phone and have watching a bunch of Hobbyists making stuff. If you decide to give me a reply thanks. In my 44yr career, yes I ran various machines. Eventually it evolved into being an tech, installing, overhauling and best working with big stuff. Microns all the way, 37 stations honing engine blocks. Anyway I subscribed to you and look forward to watching you. Keith from Michigan....
You have some wildly good content. That trick with the gage blocks is so simple, and I wouldn't have thought of it in a million years. Super great for checking size if you think something has moved on you, without taking a test cut. Do you have any videos or blogs detailing your machines?
Check out the nyc cnc for John Saunders tour of my shop . Some things have changed since the last tour , shop doubled in size and we added the cnc grinder
Very neat trick, thank you for sharing. For the "ears", they look as though they require gauge blocks to have the threaded holes already. Could you achieve something similar with "solid" gauge blocks using e.g. a machinist's clamp to hold the stack together or would you lose the accuracy?
Square gage blocks have a plain hole thru the center that I’m taking advantage of . For rectangle blocks you can use a block clamp to get a similar result . Also just gently clamping the blocks in a toolmakers vise works in a pinch
Very simple but effective technique. I already know that your digital boring head is out of my price range, but I was wondering about your Dial Test Indicator holder. Is that a bellows on the joint? Would you share the brand/model?
I was within spec for that insert, but this method doesn’t account for spring back . Multiple passes and measuring each is always best for account for that
It’s usually speed/convenience. Most my finishing happens in the other mill and it can interpolated holes to higher roundness than the haas spindle rotates. This part wasn’t all that fussy other than the bearing seats so being able to do it complete in the haas was worth the time of setting up the boring head . If I have lots of the same holes to do the boring head again makes sense , since it’s so much faster than interpolation
Are you running 100% oil? If so, what type do you like? I Have Haas machines and Haas documents say don't use 100% oil but I don't understand why? I have a friend that runs all his lathes and screw machines with 100% oil and he swears by it. In fact, I've never seen a screw-machine shop that doesn't run 100% oil and those guys know what they're doing. The only reason I can think of is maybe Haas is worried about fire danger? Any comment you can give is much appreciated.
I do run neat oil, mine is blaser but I’m not to picky on brand , I just like how clear blasers cracked oil products are. Not sure why haas doesn’t like it but my tech assured me there would be no seal compatibility issues and that many people run oil in haas mills
Hey Adam. Any chance you have a product number for that modular Sandvik carbide shank you talked about with NYC CNC a few years back? The end mill tip looked to be about .75" and the shank was projecting a good 5 or 6 inches shown up front here: th-cam.com/video/imLVVUJ7aEQ/w-d-xo.html
Such a simple and elegant trick - Thanks for sharing it!
I don't have gauge blocks, but have evolved a similar method using a decent small grinding vice, checked as being suitably square and parallel, with a couple of strongish springs holding the jaws back against the thrust collar of the screw, and set to the desired size using inside mic, tele gauge, or bore gauge. So it's one more step away from a calibrated standard, but good enough for gummint work!
Oh my gosh Adam. Im loving the tips and tricks videos. This is a technique I would have never thought of. But makes perfect sense. Cheers from Australia
true professional and a sincere educator, thank you sir
My first time seeing this technique, i learned something today. Thank you for sharing.
Absolutely fantastic. Elegantly, clearly, and concisely communicated. Thanks for taking the time to put this (and all of your videos!) together. Eye-opening, thought-provoking, and inspiring stuff.
Thanks for the kind words Jim!
Now THAT is a damn good trick. Thanks for sharing.
That was awesome! I really liked this format with the voice over. So much easier to hear you. Keep the great tips coming!
I love your tips!! I am amazed that you don’t use the “Hand of God” when tightening the boring head. Can’t say how many guys do.
Nice. That's going in the mental toolbox.
Spectacular as usual! Thank you.
I used your trick to setup a 70mm radius on my optidress. Work great knowing I won’t be able to inspect the feature after. Thx man
You are definitely one of my favorite TH-camrs up there with Robin Renzetti. You're clearly a master machinist and for someone like me who's trying to learn as much as I can it's great to see procedures from someone like you because it gives me so much confidence when I know it's something that works for you. Thanks for this great video!
That is absurdly simple, and I would have never thought of that, thanks. Charles
That's a cool little trick, thanks for sharing.
I love your channel. You do a really good job explaining what you're doing at why. Most tips and tricks videos on TH-cam are mostly for beginners. It's nice to have a channel that has a bigger range of skill level. Keep up the great work.
That is such a good explanation and demonstration of a brilliant technique - thank you.
A little over a minute in and already learning a lot. Thanks again Adam!
Thanks for sharing! I know someone that needs to know this!
Great tip, now I have to buy precision gauge blocks 😆
Haha! There should be a way to gently clamp a digital caliper in the milling vise and get you .0015 accuracy or a little better. Probably a headache though...
@@Bob_Adkins I think this approach requires two things, ability to set an accurate inside dimension, and that apparatus must be able to float in one axes. Calipers would work for pretty good dimension setting, though jaw faces are very narrow, but they’d need a base that could slide. Not sure clamped in a vise would work.
@@matter9 little 1-2 inch grinding vise would definitely do the trick for sliding
Great stuff Adam. Thanks for spending the time to make and share these tips.
Love it. In my tech education class we really didn't discuss how to do precision set ups like this. Mostly it was a bore check bore situation.
Awesome...will be using that for sure
That's one to remember. Many thanks.
That is an awesome trick. I have run into the situation many times of not having much material in repair work. Great tip Adam!
Simply brilliant!
Awesome lesson/tips…thanks for sharing
A very neat trick Adam.... Thanks for your videos
Great video, great technique!
Thank you for this, I found very full of good ideas and enjoyable. Excellent production also!
Very nice. I like that a lot of these machining tips have analogues in other fields. Thank you for expanding my tool box!
I notice the care you took with the audio on this one. Thank you.
I'm a machining QC guy, and have never seen that trick! The volume was low for me, but the sound quality was fine.
Just recently ran across your channel subbed. Good info! Thanks for taking the time to share.
That is really cool. Thank you for sharing!
Really appreciate you sharing your expertise... I had never heard of this method before but will certainly use it now
Very educative video you've made Adam! Thank you!
Good day ! I'm here and subscribed thanks to Stefan Gotteswinter; your channel is very interesting ! Thanks for sharing and cheers from Spain ! :D
Excellent tip!
Great approach to precision machining. Subscribed.
I am blown away !! great trick !! thank you, best regards, Steve
Rewatched needed to make something with my boring head. Great tips.
Amazingly informative as usual.
Awesome. Great tip. Thanks!
Love the videos. Very helpful!
Great tips!
Thanks! 🙂
Wow! That is so cool! Thank you!
Really like this method! Will have to try it out!
Great trick! Thanks.
And you don't live next door. WHY😢
Mad skills for someone so young, and in the future, I will no longer set up the indicator on the tip of the tool and hope for the best. LOL
Thanks for the tip!
New to your channel. Loving your videos and presentation, many thanks. As to using a torque wrench, I use preset Fixit Stick small torque limiter. They say 6% accuracy over 20000 cycles but the units we had tested were within 2% after couple months of use. Used by Rocket Labs here in New Zealand in some of their rocket assembly. Might be an easy inline addition to your fixturing or insert screws.
Great stuff, many thanks!
Nice trick!
Great video, thanks!
Very good tip!
Thank you! :)
Awesome. Thanks!
I don't know why I'm not subscribed, I swear I had clicked that already. ah well, now I am lol.
loving the content man!
TH-cam sometimes cancels new subscriptions. Some people see conspiracy in it, but I suspect a database sync bug. Anyway, a day or two after a new subscription, check again to be sure.
Spectacular spectacular stuff
Thank you.
Very nice presentation. I'm a bit amazed your 50 millionth Bestest indicator is not showing any reversing hysteresis. I have two of those and both have about 150 millionth hysteresis on reverse on TIR measurements.
Audio is great!
great information and a well done video, thank you for sharing...new subscriber...bravo, Paul in Florida
Really cool tip..thanks
Excellent! Just excellent! A very neat trick. Thanks for sharing. (subscribed)
Would love to hear the story of your beautiful 4th axis fixture shown on the right hand side of your table
Excellent work as always
That's pretty clever. I don't have square guage blocks but I do have a set of precision milling arbor spacers which could work well enough for anything I might need to do on my old manual mill. Just have to make some suitable "ears"...
Golden! Thanks!!!
Love the tip. Any tips on how to convince my boss I need a set of those square guage blocks.👍
Come on Adam do a brother a solid here. When you say " digital boring head" drop a price so I sound reasonable to the dearly beloved when I say "ooooh look hun, a Narex boring head for sale ".
Keep these great vids coming.
very clever 😁👍
Adam I really appreciate how simple your solutions to seemingly difficult problems. I’m far from precision but this approach seems it would certainly make the process much more approachable and accurate. Thanks I will definitely give this a try. Also, if I am understanding your gauge block set up you are wringing your dimension between two larger blocks or is this a specific fixture you have made?
That’s correct on the gage blocks. The end plates are called ears and most gage block manufacturers offer them
Suppose this could be done (more crudely, if you don't have gauge block ears handy) with a micrometer locked to a dimension, and and clamped or mounted on a movable base with the shaft horizontal??
Loved this trick! thanks Adam!
Can you elaborate on the 4th axis trunnion and your table probe setup. Both are interesting. Thanks for the video
A really nice technique, i won't say trick because that sounds like somebody is being fooled.😉
Seems like more of an exciting head trick to me
Damn, so much skill in every video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Is machine shop consulting a thing? You could be quite good at it!
I never realized that’s the reason there’s a hole in the center of the gage blocks. Fascinating explanation and I’m certain will expand the capabilities of many. I know my idea of how to precision bore has changed forever. Thank you Adam 👍👍😎👍👍
Hey Adam. You just popped up on my phone and have watching a bunch of Hobbyists making stuff. If you decide to give me a reply thanks. In my 44yr career, yes I ran various machines. Eventually it evolved into being an tech, installing, overhauling and best working with big stuff. Microns all the way, 37 stations honing engine blocks. Anyway I subscribed to you and look forward to watching you. Keith from Michigan....
Thanks for watching Keith
Adam, Great method. Thanks for the free learning. What is the indicator stand you use? Looks nice.
Best,
Reuben
Mptec
@@adamthemachinist Cheers
🔥🔥🔥🔥
You have some wildly good content. That trick with the gage blocks is so simple, and I wouldn't have thought of it in a million years. Super great for checking size if you think something has moved on you, without taking a test cut.
Do you have any videos or blogs detailing your machines?
Check out the nyc cnc for John Saunders tour of my shop . Some things have changed since the last tour , shop doubled in size and we added the cnc grinder
@@adamthemachinist I'll check it out tonight. Thanks for the reply!
Very neat trick, thank you for sharing. For the "ears", they look as though they require gauge blocks to have the threaded holes already. Could you achieve something similar with "solid" gauge blocks using e.g. a machinist's clamp to hold the stack together or would you lose the accuracy?
Square gage blocks have a plain hole thru the center that I’m taking advantage of . For rectangle blocks you can use a block clamp to get a similar result . Also just gently clamping the blocks in a toolmakers vise works in a pinch
@@adamthemachinist ah that makes sense, thank you for responding (:
Thankyou for sharing your knowledge.
What brand of machine are you doing this on?
It’s a haas
Into a grey cell with this one!
Hey Adam, move the video. Could you direct me to an MSC or McMaster part number for that boring head? Would be greatly appreciated.
Digital boring head?, I’m starting to save my money asap. 😁
Very simple but effective technique. I already know that your digital boring head is out of my price range, but I was wondering about your Dial Test Indicator holder. Is that a bellows on the joint? Would you share the brand/model?
That’s an mptec, very stiff and the joint lock up one at a time versus all at once . Can’t remember the model number
@@adamthemachinist Thank you!
👍do you have to be concerned about the minimum cut depth of the insert so it doesn't push off? Thanks
I was within spec for that insert, but this method doesn’t account for spring back . Multiple passes and measuring each is always best for account for that
What brand is that mag base?
Mptec
What criteria do you consider when you decide between boring and interpolating a hole?
It’s usually speed/convenience. Most my finishing happens in the other mill and it can interpolated holes to higher roundness than the haas spindle rotates. This part wasn’t all that fussy other than the bearing seats so being able to do it complete in the haas was worth the time of setting up the boring head . If I have lots of the same holes to do the boring head again makes sense , since it’s so much faster than interpolation
Where się you get these gauge blocks with holes in it? I cant Find any…
Mitutoyo and Starrett both offer them
What are you using for coolant there Adam? Is that synthetic?
It’s neat oil
@@adamthemachinist I'm considering changing one of my machines over to oil, do you have TSC on this machine also?
Do you set the boring diameter every time you put the boring bar in the spindle or can you trust it to repeat?
It’s very repeatable after a tool change , this is just done for the first hole or after a cutting edge change
What coolant is that?
It’s neat oil
Are you running 100% oil? If so, what type do you like? I Have Haas machines and Haas documents say don't use 100% oil but I don't understand why? I have a friend that runs all his lathes and screw machines with 100% oil and he swears by it. In fact, I've never seen a screw-machine shop that doesn't run 100% oil and those guys know what they're doing. The only reason I can think of is maybe Haas is worried about fire danger? Any comment you can give is much appreciated.
I do run neat oil, mine is blaser but I’m not to picky on brand , I just like how clear blasers cracked oil products are. Not sure why haas doesn’t like it but my tech assured me there would be no seal compatibility issues and that many people run oil in haas mills
Who makes that boring head?
Kaiser
Look ma one hand
Hey Adam. Any chance you have a product number for that modular Sandvik carbide shank you talked about with NYC CNC a few years back? The end mill tip looked to be about .75" and the shank was projecting a good 5 or 6 inches shown up front here: th-cam.com/video/imLVVUJ7aEQ/w-d-xo.html
Aeh20-a18.7-sh-190
Low stress way to hit a .0002 tolerance 😬
I'm sorry bud but we already have an Adam in the TH-cam machining world. We gotta find another name, maybe Gerald?
Good info. Horrible lighting.
TIR? Please don’t assume everyone watching your videos knows what acronyms mean.
Total indicator reading, good point about not using jargon