Send us your Synology DS1815+ for repair: nickselectronics.com/products/ds1815 Have a different device you want to send in? Leave us a comment or send us an email info@nickselectronicrepair.com 520-838-9359
Add me to the growing list of satisfied subscribers. I just completed the repair of my DS1815+ after 2 or 3 years of increasingly flaky power issues. Finally wouldn't power up a few weeks ago. A new CMOS battery and a $.07 transistor and I'm up and running again. Thanks for posting the perfect video!
Thank you for this video! My 9-year-old DS1815+ stopped working. It had a flashing Blue Power light and an Amber Alert light, but it would not boot. I replaced the CMOS battery, but that did not do the trick. I added the 100-ohm 1-watt resistor, and it booted right up! I'm so glad I found your video.
I love your "power it on power it on power it on" waiting loop - it matches with the DS1815+'s mainboard quality. They deserve any joke to be made at their cost.
Haha yeah, I genuinely thought that was going to be the fix for the power on fault so that's why I was surprised and did that. But that's also why I always do all the repairs every time because you never know what's going to fail next and some of the symptoms can be caused by 2 different parts as well.
A lot of people blame power surges, but more often it's actually the outage itself that causes the final failure, not a surge specifically that might otherwise cause an overvolt or overcurrent condition. That device would have presented the same symptoms if the owner had simply unplugged it and let it gone cold for an hour and tried plugging it back in.
Nick, do you know what resistor is at the Q4 area... it's marked either R13 or R32. Both flew when I used my hot air machine to try and remove the Q4 transistor.
Awesome video. I needed only to do the resistor and change cmos and things are OK so far. For what it's worth the 100hm resistor I installed is quite large, maybe 5mm long so had to get a bit bendy on the legs but it still works :D
Thank you very much for the video that I recently discovered a few days ago. I currently have 3 DS1815+ in the closet which possibly suffer from the same disease, and by replacing the Q4 transistor, the C37 capacitor flew away too. Given its size, it's impossible to find it. Can DS1815+ work without it? If not, does anyone know its specs?
I can't say I have had to replace C37 before. Is it right next to the Q4 transistor? PS for Q4 to work for a long time and not fail again you also need to replace the resistor on the power supply daughter board as shown in the video. That one is much smaller than the capacitor that flew away. Next time I open up a DS1815 I will take a look at it's capacitance and let you know it's specs.
@@NicksElectronicRepair Thank you for the answer. Yes it is right next to Q4. I haven't replaced the other components yet but that's planned. Thanks for your look
I am hoping that you will soon do a repair video for a DS1513+, mine has the flashing blue light symptom, but it has a different MOBO (with no Athom) so I am struggling to find some suggestions on how to fix it. I'm in the UK so it wouldn't be worth the cost of sending the DS1513+ to you for repair, unfortunately.
I don't see the DS1513+ very often so I don't know when that will come out, but the fault is usually identical to the same fault we see with the DS412+ DS1512+ and DS1812+ There is an IC chip on the back of the daughter board that has the Nand chip. Its location ID is U1. Most likely needs to be replaced. I already made a video on 12+ units but I haven't finished editing it yet. I'll make it my next video to come out in 1 week from now. Keep an eye out for it and just copy the same repair I do for the DS1812+ to your DS1513+ and it should get it working. EDIT: Never mind the unit I worked on was indeed a DS1813+. But it still stands that the DS1812+ DS1512+ DS1513+ all suffer from the same fault when it comes to the blue light blinking endlessly and next weeks video will cover all those models!
@@NicksElectronicRepair Thanks for the reply. I have found the U1 chip on the underside of the board. You also helped me to find a couple of forum posts that I think will be helpful now that I know what to look for.
oh yes the different kinds are most likely the size of the resistor. You could make either sizes work. Im willing to bet the sizes they sell are all big enough. Im out of town for the holiday and won't be back until after the new year so I can't go check right now sorry.
Hello, can you help me? I lost the small black (presumably) resistor with the board label R48 while desoldering and soldering the BC847b. Can you tell me what value the resistor has or whether it is a zero ohm resistor? Many thanks.❤
Sorry for the late reply, we were closed down for the holiday weekend until now. I am unsure if the CMOS replacement would do the trick but it's worth a try. Let me know how it goes
@@NicksElectronicRepair so I did pull it apart. Resistor was done from factory, I did check the battery and it was showing 0.9v and I did change that. But doing so unfortunately. Stopped the machine from booting up again. It appears the transistor needs to be changed. I definitely don't have the skills to solder that. It's currently booting fine with the PSU jumper to bypass the power button. I think I will continue to run like this until hopefully there is a new model and then I will upgrade.
Well if you do want to send it in for repair, we offer a full refurbishment service. We would replace several parts including parts that have not yet failed and do modify the power supply as well to help prevent future failures from happening as well. Your DS1815+ unit could have many more years of service if you have us refurbish it and of course we give a 1 Year warranty with all of our repairs. This would be much much cheaper than buying a new or used unit. If you are interested I have the link to our flat rate service below: nickselectronics.com/products/ds1815
I am sorry to say but this means that either the components you installed are faulty, or were not installed in the correct location, or not installed properly/don't have good solder joints. I have had a 100% success rate with these repairs. I have shown everything I do in the video, there is nothing more to be done or additional repair secrets, I laid it all out there. If you can't figure out what is going on with your unit, you can always send it in for repair, we have a flat rate service which comes with a 1 Year warranty. Links to the repair listing are in the video description.
I have a DS1815+ that wont turn on, it has the resistor and the transistor fix on Q4, however the PSU is untouched. However, when shortening the green to earth, I only get the blue light blinking, all the LAN lights are green and nothing else happens. Does not sound like the disks start spinning either. Would it just be the PSU resistor 392 to 103 fix or does it sound like I need a whole new PSU? I live in Denmark, so sending it to the states will just double the price for me :D
Most likely don't need a whole new PSU. What you did in fact confirms the PSU is good and the fault is not with the PSU. Replacing the SMD resistor from 392-103 should help, but if it does not resolve your issue, either you did not do the repair correctly, did not use the correct components, or you have a different fault. Did your unit get hit by lightning or a power surge? This seems to be something people who send in their units forget to mention which is extremely important to make your tech aware of. If you had a power surge, lightning strike, or ethernet issue then most likely you have a fault in that system. Most power surges come in through the ethernet port, not the actual power. When this happens, it can short out your ethernet chips and sometimes travel to the processor. If that is the case the processor may need to be replaced. This is rare but does happen.
@@NicksElectronicRepair : true, but no lightning strikes - I bought the DS1815+ second hand and it already had an issue where it couldn't boot - but the guy I bought it from wasn't tech savvy - so I went ahead and replaced the cmos battery, soldered the 100 Ohm resistor and replaced the Q4 transistor - and it has been running without issues for little over a year now. I have an APC UPS also, although thats just a power surge protection, I don't think it was caused by lightning - happens rarely here. Will order a couple of 103 resistors and try that - and might consider a Digital HD microscope for those small components - vision doesn't really get better with age. I would definitely recommend these jobs to be done by a professional like you - and with a 1 year warranty it may just be worth it, if you live in the states. Thanks for the reply - appreciate it!
@@NicksElectronicRepair: local electronics shop only have 0403 and 0603 resistors - and ordering 0103 online will take 2 months to ship unless I order express for an additional cost of 10$ - for a 0.02$ resistors
@@NicksElectronicRepair : got a 0103 from a donor board (induction stovetop) and replaced the 392 - works now! Thank you for this great video, wish I knew this when I threw out my DS415+ a couple of years ago, where I only did the resistor fix.
@@znabela It's also possible your CPU is bad and needs to be replaced. We will be doing a video on just that pretty soon as we have encountered a few units like that recently.
Can you tell me exactly which 10k SMD resistor i need? Unfortunately, I'm not an electrician and I've seen there are different sizes and so on Thanks & Kindly Regards
Here are the dimensions of the one I used in the video: 1.2mm width 1.94mm length .5mm thick This is a very small resistor. It only looks big because I am soldering under a microscope. The space is tight and does not leave much room for error. If you don't solder a lot, this is going to be a very difficult job and odds are high you may damage your power supply.
Thanks for the video. I can't find anything on the ds1817+. The board is double the size and the battery is calling for 2032. Is j5 it still j5? Same the other components. The is another set of header pins that is J1. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello Aaron, I don't think what we are doing in this video for the DS1815+ can be applied to the DS1817+ as that unit does use a different motherboard. It also has a different CPU which the resistor fix we are doing is to fix an issue with the clock signal on the CPU that goes out of spec. A unique issue to the 15+ series that I don't believe applies to the 17+ series. I have not yet had a request to fix the DS1817+ so I don't yet know all the common faults with it, but if you did want to send yours in for us to try and fix I can give it a look and would be willing to give you a discount on the repair since it would be a "discovery repair" Most likely would do a video on it as well. If that is something you might be interested in, please reach out to me directly (contact information is in the video description)
Pls, can you tell me what transistor is q4? I think it can be the problem with my Synology. I have the same device, after a power outage during thunderstorm wome years ago(I think there was also an overvoltage on the power line) my Synology didn't start anymore if i was pressing the power button. I tried changing the power supply, but nothing. Then I found out that if i press the power button and then manually (in a few seconds) I connect the green wire to ground on the connector from the power supply to the motherboard, the device start and run normally. It won't turn off until i remove the green wire from the ground. Thanks in advance if you want to help me!
I have all the parts parts used written at the very bottom of the video description. Here is a copy of it all: 100-ohm through hole resistor 1 Watt BC847B SOT-23 NPN Transistor 0.1A SMD Battery CR1220 10k SMD resistor (power supply)
I have the Synology DS1821+ with the blue light blinking issue (which started when I was trying to reboot it by long pressing the power button while the DSM was still open on my browser). How do I fix it? PS: Was trying to reboot it because the Download Station had stopped working.
Hello, I am not as familiar with the DS1821+ as it is a much newer unit and have not gotten requests to repair it yet. Here is what I would suggest trying. 1) Press and hold the reset button for 10 seconds or until the unit beeps 2)Replace the CMOS battery 3) Try different RAM 4) Send it in for repair If 1/2/3 don't work then it's possible you either have a software fault, or hardware fault which would require some amount of advanced tools or soldering skills to fix. I am sorry but that is all I can provide you with at this time without having the unit in front of me for advanced diagnostics and testing.
Send us your Synology DS1815+ for repair: nickselectronics.com/products/ds1815
Have a different device you want to send in? Leave us a comment or send us an email
info@nickselectronicrepair.com
520-838-9359
Add me to the growing list of satisfied subscribers. I just completed the repair of my DS1815+ after 2 or 3 years of increasingly flaky power issues. Finally wouldn't power up a few weeks ago. A new CMOS battery and a $.07 transistor and I'm up and running again. Thanks for posting the perfect video!
That's awesome to hear that you got your NAS back up and running! Glad the video was able to help.
Thank you for this video! My 9-year-old DS1815+ stopped working. It had a flashing Blue Power light and an Amber Alert light, but it would not boot. I replaced the CMOS battery, but that did not do the trick. I added the 100-ohm 1-watt resistor, and it booted right up! I'm so glad I found your video.
Glad I could help!
I love your "power it on power it on power it on" waiting loop - it matches with the DS1815+'s mainboard quality. They deserve any joke to be made at their cost.
Haha yeah, I genuinely thought that was going to be the fix for the power on fault so that's why I was surprised and did that. But that's also why I always do all the repairs every time because you never know what's going to fail next and some of the symptoms can be caused by 2 different parts as well.
I got given one of these thats showing all these faults - life saver, thank you so much!
Were you able to fix it?
Nick told me to like and subscribe first 3:35. Done and done! Great camera work, you’ve just earned another fan.
Haha, thanks for the like and sub, I know you didn't have a choice since I forced you to but still, I do appreciate it!
Thank you for the video. This did help me big time reviving my DS1815+ !
Glad it helped!
A lot of people blame power surges, but more often it's actually the outage itself that causes the final failure, not a surge specifically that might otherwise cause an overvolt or overcurrent condition. That device would have presented the same symptoms if the owner had simply unplugged it and let it gone cold for an hour and tried plugging it back in.
YES That is exactly correct!
5:02 What is the clear fluid being sprayed to clean the board? Some sort of alcohol? Thanks!
99.99% ipa
Nick, do you know what resistor is at the Q4 area... it's marked either R13 or R32. Both flew when I used my hot air machine to try and remove the Q4 transistor.
Awesome video!
Glad to hear you liked it.
More to come on different models!
Awesome video. I needed only to do the resistor and change cmos and things are OK so far. For what it's worth the 100hm resistor I installed is quite large, maybe 5mm long so had to get a bit bendy on the legs but it still works :D
Yeah that should be fine. If it works it works haha
Thank you very much for the video that I recently discovered a few days ago.
I currently have 3 DS1815+ in the closet which possibly suffer from the same disease, and by replacing the Q4 transistor, the C37 capacitor flew away too. Given its size, it's impossible to find it.
Can DS1815+ work without it?
If not, does anyone know its specs?
I can't say I have had to replace C37 before. Is it right next to the Q4 transistor?
PS for Q4 to work for a long time and not fail again you also need to replace the resistor on the power supply daughter board as shown in the video. That one is much smaller than the capacitor that flew away.
Next time I open up a DS1815 I will take a look at it's capacitance and let you know it's specs.
@@NicksElectronicRepair Thank you for the answer.
Yes it is right next to Q4.
I haven't replaced the other components yet but that's planned.
Thanks for your look
what Q4 tranistor is that exactly?
I am hoping that you will soon do a repair video for a DS1513+, mine has the flashing blue light symptom, but it has a different MOBO (with no Athom) so I am struggling to find some suggestions on how to fix it. I'm in the UK so it wouldn't be worth the cost of sending the DS1513+ to you for repair, unfortunately.
I don't see the DS1513+ very often so I don't know when that will come out, but the fault is usually identical to the same fault we see with the DS412+ DS1512+ and DS1812+
There is an IC chip on the back of the daughter board that has the Nand chip. Its location ID is U1. Most likely needs to be replaced.
I already made a video on 12+ units but I haven't finished editing it yet. I'll make it my next video to come out in 1 week from now. Keep an eye out for it and just copy the same repair I do for the DS1812+ to your DS1513+ and it should get it working.
EDIT:
Never mind the unit I worked on was indeed a DS1813+. But it still stands that the DS1812+ DS1512+ DS1513+ all suffer from the same fault when it comes to the blue light blinking endlessly and next weeks video will cover all those models!
@@NicksElectronicRepair Thanks for the reply. I have found the U1 chip on the underside of the board. You also helped me to find a couple of forum posts that I think will be helpful now that I know what to look for.
This comes probably a bit late but we did do a video on the 13+ which I will link below:
th-cam.com/video/IxxjOLzy30o/w-d-xo.html
10k SMD resistor, can you specify which kind? When I go on amazon there are several different kinds. maybe provide a link?
oh yes the different kinds are most likely the size of the resistor. You could make either sizes work. Im willing to bet the sizes they sell are all big enough.
Im out of town for the holiday and won't be back until after the new year so I can't go check right now sorry.
would be great to have the info
Hello, can you help me? I lost the small black (presumably) resistor with the board label R48 while desoldering and soldering the BC847b. Can you tell me what value the resistor has or whether it is a zero ohm resistor? Many thanks.❤
My ds1815+ is constantly restarting a few times every couple of days. Would a change of cmos fix this? Unsure if it has the 100ohm resistor.
Sorry for the late reply, we were closed down for the holiday weekend until now.
I am unsure if the CMOS replacement would do the trick but it's worth a try. Let me know how it goes
@@NicksElectronicRepair so I did pull it apart. Resistor was done from factory, I did check the battery and it was showing 0.9v and I did change that. But doing so unfortunately. Stopped the machine from booting up again. It appears the transistor needs to be changed. I definitely don't have the skills to solder that. It's currently booting fine with the PSU jumper to bypass the power button. I think I will continue to run like this until hopefully there is a new model and then I will upgrade.
Well if you do want to send it in for repair, we offer a full refurbishment service. We would replace several parts including parts that have not yet failed and do modify the power supply as well to help prevent future failures from happening as well.
Your DS1815+ unit could have many more years of service if you have us refurbish it and of course we give a 1 Year warranty with all of our repairs. This would be much much cheaper than buying a new or used unit.
If you are interested I have the link to our flat rate service below:
nickselectronics.com/products/ds1815
Hi dear Nick i have changed all the components but also getting the same Orange light alart light blinking
I am sorry to say but this means that either the components you installed are faulty, or were not installed in the correct location, or not installed properly/don't have good solder joints.
I have had a 100% success rate with these repairs. I have shown everything I do in the video, there is nothing more to be done or additional repair secrets, I laid it all out there.
If you can't figure out what is going on with your unit, you can always send it in for repair, we have a flat rate service which comes with a 1 Year warranty. Links to the repair listing are in the video description.
I have a DS1815+ that wont turn on, it has the resistor and the transistor fix on Q4, however the PSU is untouched. However, when shortening the green to earth, I only get the blue light blinking, all the LAN lights are green and nothing else happens. Does not sound like the disks start spinning either. Would it just be the PSU resistor 392 to 103 fix or does it sound like I need a whole new PSU? I live in Denmark, so sending it to the states will just double the price for me :D
Most likely don't need a whole new PSU. What you did in fact confirms the PSU is good and the fault is not with the PSU.
Replacing the SMD resistor from 392-103 should help, but if it does not resolve your issue, either you did not do the repair correctly, did not use the correct components, or you have a different fault. Did your unit get hit by lightning or a power surge? This seems to be something people who send in their units forget to mention which is extremely important to make your tech aware of.
If you had a power surge, lightning strike, or ethernet issue then most likely you have a fault in that system. Most power surges come in through the ethernet port, not the actual power. When this happens, it can short out your ethernet chips and sometimes travel to the processor.
If that is the case the processor may need to be replaced. This is rare but does happen.
@@NicksElectronicRepair : true, but no lightning strikes - I bought the DS1815+ second hand and it already had an issue where it couldn't boot - but the guy I bought it from wasn't tech savvy - so I went ahead and replaced the cmos battery, soldered the 100 Ohm resistor and replaced the Q4 transistor - and it has been running without issues for little over a year now. I have an APC UPS also, although thats just a power surge protection, I don't think it was caused by lightning - happens rarely here.
Will order a couple of 103 resistors and try that - and might consider a Digital HD microscope for those small components - vision doesn't really get better with age. I would definitely recommend these jobs to be done by a professional like you - and with a 1 year warranty it may just be worth it, if you live in the states. Thanks for the reply - appreciate it!
@@NicksElectronicRepair: local electronics shop only have 0403 and 0603 resistors - and ordering 0103 online will take 2 months to ship unless I order express for an additional cost of 10$ - for a 0.02$ resistors
@@NicksElectronicRepair : got a 0103 from a donor board (induction stovetop) and replaced the 392 - works now! Thank you for this great video, wish I knew this when I threw out my DS415+ a couple of years ago, where I only did the resistor fix.
@@znabela It's also possible your CPU is bad and needs to be replaced. We will be doing a video on just that pretty soon as we have encountered a few units like that recently.
Can you tell me exactly which 10k SMD resistor i need?
Unfortunately, I'm not an electrician and I've seen there are different sizes and so on
Thanks & Kindly Regards
Here are the dimensions of the one I used in the video: 1.2mm width 1.94mm length .5mm thick
This is a very small resistor. It only looks big because I am soldering under a microscope. The space is tight and does not leave much room for error.
If you don't solder a lot, this is going to be a very difficult job and odds are high you may damage your power supply.
Thanks for the video. I can't find anything on the ds1817+. The board is double the size and the battery is calling for 2032. Is j5 it still j5? Same the other components. The is another set of header pins that is J1. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello Aaron,
I don't think what we are doing in this video for the DS1815+ can be applied to the DS1817+ as that unit does use a different motherboard. It also has a different CPU which the resistor fix we are doing is to fix an issue with the clock signal on the CPU that goes out of spec. A unique issue to the 15+ series that I don't believe applies to the 17+ series.
I have not yet had a request to fix the DS1817+ so I don't yet know all the common faults with it, but if you did want to send yours in for us to try and fix I can give it a look and would be willing to give you a discount on the repair since it would be a "discovery repair" Most likely would do a video on it as well.
If that is something you might be interested in, please reach out to me directly (contact information is in the video description)
What's the package size for the PSU resistor 392 ?
I believe it's 2 mm long
Pls, can you tell me what transistor is q4? I think it can be the problem with my Synology.
I have the same device, after a power outage during thunderstorm wome years ago(I think there was also an overvoltage on the power line) my Synology didn't start anymore if i was pressing the power button.
I tried changing the power supply, but nothing. Then I found out that if i press the power button and then manually (in a few seconds) I connect the green wire to ground on the connector from the power supply to the motherboard, the device start and run normally. It won't turn off until i remove the green wire from the ground.
Thanks in advance if you want to help me!
I have all the parts parts used written at the very bottom of the video description. Here is a copy of it all:
100-ohm through hole resistor 1 Watt
BC847B SOT-23 NPN Transistor 0.1A SMD
Battery CR1220
10k SMD resistor (power supply)
I have the Synology DS1821+ with the blue light blinking issue (which started when I was trying to reboot it by long pressing the power button while the DSM was still open on my browser). How do I fix it?
PS: Was trying to reboot it because the Download Station had stopped working.
Hello,
I am not as familiar with the DS1821+ as it is a much newer unit and have not gotten requests to repair it yet.
Here is what I would suggest trying.
1) Press and hold the reset button for 10 seconds or until the unit beeps
2)Replace the CMOS battery
3) Try different RAM
4) Send it in for repair
If 1/2/3 don't work then it's possible you either have a software fault, or hardware fault which would require some amount of advanced tools or soldering skills to fix.
I am sorry but that is all I can provide you with at this time without having the unit in front of me for advanced diagnostics and testing.
10k SMD with this dim. Lenght 2.00±0.10 Wide 1.25±0.10 Heigh 0.50±0.10, mean that is this one: R0805 10k 0,12W 0,1% SMD rezistor ?
I believe that is correct
Taking apart a power supply would warrant a hazard warning
Unless you are seriously deviating from what I show on camera there is no danger.