Great video, super helpful with some awesome tips! Folks complain the Muc Off are expensive valves, but I appreciate the different sized gaskets that come with the valves. To me the extra $$ to get something that fits and works well and reduces the possibility and hassle of having leaks.
There is nothing better than lending! clogging of the valve can be removed by putting a little solid petroleum jelly inside the ovule of the valve that opens and closes. This prevents the sealant from sticking. Even to clean it, you can file the riveted top of the mini presta nut and disassemble it into 3 parts, clean it with thinner and apply Vaseline and you will never have a problem of it clogging again. The presta valve has no competition doing this, it has good flow, it does not clog and the tip is removable to add sealant.
I’ve got both, bought a set of Peatys last year when I could got hold of the muck off ones, they are pretty good. I think I would still favour the muck off just because of the rubber end of valve option they come with.
Excellent video calm and clear , much better than the Muc off demos. By coincidence I have also got blue Hope hubs, chose the blue values because of the colour match and opted for the 1 litre bottle. I will have a go at installation tomorrow, by the way is there a trick in measuring the right dosage straight from the inverted bottle?
hi there getting my new canyon endurace cf 8 today 27th sep 2024 will i need tubeless tyres for setting this up youre video is great very easy to understand---trying to keep fit at 71
So the thinner little rubber “bungs” that come already installed on the valves are just an additional option for rim fit? I wasn’t sure if they were supposed to stay on, then you choose one of the other two “bung” options to fit over the top.
Hi, the rubber pieces are interchangeable to best suit your rim type. Most mtb these days just need the normal cone, but the tapered cone and the square off/hammer head can be useful on narrow rims/road bikes or older Mavic UTS.
Hi CD Teo, I don’t know any of the details about the DT Swiss XM481 so I can’t say. But I think you would need quite a deep section style rim to require the longer versions of the valve.
What pump did you use to inflate, not the air blast, the one which screwed on that looks better than the push fit type which I always bend valves with 😂
Hey buddy, I noticed you said something about spending hours with a floor pump when you were trying to get it to sit on the bead. I’m gonna be converting to tubeless within the next few days and I only have a foot pump, is this gonna be a major problem for me? I’ve spent a lot of money on the bike recently and can’t really afford to buy another pump, thanks in advance for any advice.
My best answer is maybe! It all depends on the manufacturing tolerances of the tyre, the rim and how they interact. Is the foot pump your using one of the automotive type ones? In that case I really doubt you’ll be able to make it flow enough volume of air to get it to seat the bead. It can be quite tricky with a track style floor pump. I guess the positive news is you’ve got nothing to loose in trying to get the tyre to seat with your existing pump. I’d say give it a go but prepared to buy a pump with a some sort of tubeless seating devise, an air blaster type secondary device or potentially take it to a decent bike shop to get set up.
@@MozOnBikes Hey buddy thanks for the advice! I’m running Maxxis Aggressor & Maxxis DHF atm & my pump is a Topaek Joe Blow Sport 3 Floor Pump. I’ll give it a go anyway, there’s a bike shop very local to me so I suppose I can always take it there if needed but I’d really like to be able to do it myself. Thanks again buddy!
On several bike forums, I got recommended a brass alloy valves instead of aluminium ones to prevent their breaking. Anyone experienced with breaking aluminium valves ?
Bicycle forums?!? I can’t say I’ve seen any brass tubeless valves for sale. They would be significantly heavier. As the tubeless valves are only stressed under their own mass I would not have thought they breaking would be any worse that brass, especially if you spend on the higher quality version, not some super cheap questionable low spec aluminium versions.
I’m nearly 100% sure that those nukeproof valves are aluminium and have just been anodised copper in colour. If you have a look at my latest videos, one of the short stories I have that copper colour valve as it came with the Nukeproof ARD tyre inserts.
It’s from Specialized and it’s called the Air tool blast tire setter. Basically it’s a separate tubeless inflator that you fill up from a traditional floor pump. I’ve got a real nice track pump so didn’t want to lay out a load more cash on a tubeless version and this seemed like a good alternative.
Superb information thank-you much better and detailed than the modern day Muc Off video explanation.
Nice video - I've used these valves successfully. As you say they are well made and look nice too!
Great video, super helpful with some awesome tips!
Folks complain the Muc Off are expensive valves, but I appreciate the different sized gaskets that come with the valves. To me the extra $$ to get something that fits and works well and reduces the possibility and hassle of having leaks.
I got the Blow Joe topeak ! Thank you just bought the Mucc off valves slick oil !
There is nothing better than lending! clogging of the valve can be removed by putting a little solid petroleum jelly inside the ovule of the valve that opens and closes. This prevents the sealant from sticking. Even to clean it, you can file the riveted top of the mini presta nut and disassemble it into 3 parts, clean it with thinner and apply Vaseline and you will never have a problem of it clogging again. The presta valve has no competition doing this, it has good flow, it does not clog and the tip is removable to add sealant.
Great video and helped me massively as a first timer 👍🏻
These and Peaty’s are by far the best looking valves. Colours and quality are top notch in both. They are a matter of preference? Don’t you think?
I’ve got both, bought a set of Peatys last year when I could got hold of the muck off ones, they are pretty good. I think I would still favour the muck off just because of the rubber end of valve option they come with.
Very well explained! Nice video.
i was looking to buy mucoff valves. thanks for the video
Great vid buddy
Excellent video calm and clear , much better than the Muc off demos. By coincidence I have also got blue Hope hubs, chose the blue values because of the colour match and opted for the 1 litre bottle. I will have a go at installation tomorrow, by the way is there a trick in measuring the right dosage straight from the inverted bottle?
hi there getting my new canyon endurace cf 8 today 27th sep 2024 will i need tubeless tyres for setting this up
youre video is great very easy to understand---trying to keep fit at 71
Fantastic video! Thanks so much
Thanks for the positive feedback!
A very good vid. I have enjoyed it. Thank you
Looks like a great product, I'm gonna get some in gold for that BLING
So the thinner little rubber “bungs” that come already installed on the valves are just an additional option for rim fit? I wasn’t sure if they were supposed to stay on, then you choose one of the other two “bung” options to fit over the top.
Yup, you pop off the bungs to replace them for the option that suits your rim the best. Defo don’t fit an addition bung over the top.
Moz On Bikes awesome- I assumed correctly! No need to rip tyres off to fix haha.
I was wondering the same
Nice video Dude 👍🏻
My presta insert is seized into the threaded stem. Hard to losen them without damaging the thread.
❤
where do those 2 other rubber pieces go that you dident show in videp
Hi, the rubber pieces are interchangeable to best suit your rim type. Most mtb these days just need the normal cone, but the tapered cone and the square off/hammer head can be useful on narrow rims/road bikes or older Mavic UTS.
ty
Hi, is the 44mm model suffice for my DT Swiss XM481 350 Straight Pull 27,5" 30mm rim?
Hi CD Teo, I don’t know any of the details about the DT Swiss XM481 so I can’t say.
But I think you would need quite a deep section style rim to require the longer versions of the valve.
What pump did you use to inflate, not the air blast, the one which screwed on that looks better than the push fit type which I always bend valves with 😂
It’s a Lezyne Alloy track pump. I think the screw on bit is called an ABS head
Hey buddy, I noticed you said something about spending hours with a floor pump when you were trying to get it to sit on the bead. I’m gonna be converting to tubeless within the next few days and I only have a foot pump, is this gonna be a major problem for me? I’ve spent a lot of money on the bike recently and can’t really afford to buy another pump, thanks in advance for any advice.
My best answer is maybe! It all depends on the manufacturing tolerances of the tyre, the rim and how they interact.
Is the foot pump your using one of the automotive type ones? In that case I really doubt you’ll be able to make it flow enough volume of air to get it to seat the bead. It can be quite tricky with a track style floor pump.
I guess the positive news is you’ve got nothing to loose in trying to get the tyre to seat with your existing pump. I’d say give it a go but prepared to buy a pump with a some sort of tubeless seating devise, an air blaster type secondary device or potentially take it to a decent bike shop to get set up.
@@MozOnBikes Hey buddy thanks for the advice! I’m running Maxxis Aggressor & Maxxis DHF atm & my pump is a Topaek Joe Blow Sport 3 Floor Pump. I’ll give it a go anyway, there’s a bike shop very local to me so I suppose I can always take it there if needed but I’d really like to be able to do it myself. Thanks again buddy!
Yeah give it a go, it’s a no loss attempt with what you’ve got.
On several bike forums, I got recommended a brass alloy valves instead of aluminium ones to prevent their breaking. Anyone experienced with breaking aluminium valves ?
Bicycle forums?!? I can’t say I’ve seen any brass tubeless valves for sale. They would be significantly heavier.
As the tubeless valves are only stressed under their own mass I would not have thought they breaking would be any worse that brass, especially if you spend on the higher quality version, not some super cheap questionable low spec aluminium versions.
I’m nearly 100% sure that those nukeproof valves are aluminium and have just been anodised copper in colour. If you have a look at my latest videos, one of the short stories I have that copper colour valve as it came with the Nukeproof ARD tyre inserts.
I will double check as I am about to purchase couple of them
Are you sure you not sponsored by muc off
What size is the valve stem 40 or 60mm? Thank you
44mm
Hey what's your tubeless scotch?
Single malt of course
What’s the pump you used that says “blast” on the side
It’s from Specialized and it’s called the Air tool blast tire setter. Basically it’s a separate tubeless inflator that you fill up from a traditional floor pump. I’ve got a real nice track pump so didn’t want to lay out a load more cash on a tubeless version and this seemed like a good alternative.
One called “Airshot” worth looking at too
Bike pimp eh
Used the most horrible rim tape there it’s a pain to take off ! Should’ve used muc off rim tape