Man, thank you for the video. I thought I had to manually move the knife up or down, but wasn't 100%. Now I can finally get this old hunk of metal spinning.
I bought one just like that new in 1976. Your technique for setting the knives is quite creative and should produce good results. I learned to set the knives off a pair of bar magnets on the outfeed table, just overhanging tdc of the cutter head. To finalize the setting, I would lay a sheet of typing paper on the outfeed table and run a large, fine stone across the paper, barely touching the running knives. Our shop teacher in grade 12 taught us how to do it. As long as the kerf is no more than 1/16", it will work. Over the years I went from the Rockwell to a General 6" and on to a General 8". The magnets still reside under its outfeed table.
Mike, that was a tremendous video. I purchased an old jointer many years ago and have struggled with setting the knives ever since - no fancy adjustments on mine - just like yours. Tried everything, including hours on you tube, magnetic alignment products, old tips from old hands - nothing worked. Set my blades tonight using your method and the jointer works like a charm. Made one minor change to the process, I used a small block of wood since it moved cleaner with the blades, and I marked it with a knife to get a very accurate start point, then measured the distance traveled with a dial caliper. After measuring it was just a case of getting the wood to travel the distance set on the lowest reading of the caliper - I swear it's accurate to a fraction of a mill. Thanks man, your video just gave me a jointer and saved my sanity.
I've watched this video before, but I just wasn't hearin' what you were sayin'. This time it all made sense. I totally understood what you were doing. I think I missed some things that I caught this time. Thanks for the video.
Mate! Cheerz so much for this information. Bought a 2nd hand jointer with blades removed. Truely thank you for this as I would’ve not done it this way at all. Cheerz from down under NZ
Super explanation. no frills, and perfectly clear. Thanks. I have an Axminster machine (UK) spring loaded underneath the knife, so may need to set differently, but all good to see how to do this. First time for me.
@@mikeschmitz8355 As you say, the measuring will be exactly the same, just setting the blades will be different. I don't know how strong the springs are, I will find out when the blades arrive in the post I guess.
Thanks Mike. Your mention of the way the bolts loosen and tighten was very helpful. Getting ready to change my blades and you saved the job from turning into a nightmare. I guarantee they would have been broken or stripped. I have watched many videos before attempting it and yours is the only one that said anything about it.
Excellent information. The straightedge technique and advice about the right-angle pick are very important. I was able to set up the knives accurately and easily on the same model jointer. Thanks.
My jointer is probably as old as yours! I've heard of that technique and it's the first time I see it. And it's well explain (and clear)! Thank for your work!
Great video! I just picked up a Rockwell Model 6 yesterday, which has the same blade arrangement. Haven't been able to find a manual, so every little bit of info helps - and this helps a lot.
Loved your video. I'm currently setting up an old craftsman myself and this was a very helpful video. Haven't read through any of the other comments but wanted to share one little thing I figured out for getting the blades balance to the same point. Tried adjusting by hand and kept going too far or not enough. Have one side at 3 and couldn't get the other to match. Then I realized that all I had to do was take the blade to the point where it would be at 3 and put some gentle pressure down on the straight edge which made it set at 3. That easily balanced both sides. Just thought I would share.
Et voilà! J'ai très bien réussi le changement des mes lames et c'est la première fois que je fais ça! Done! I've successfully changed my blades and it's a first for me! Thanks again!
Appreciate this video. I have just restored on old 50's jointer that was the "table top" version of yours. Blades are at the sharpeners now and then it is complete.
Glad you liked it! What did you use for the straightedge? It was suggested elsewhere that a normal ruler fixed to a nice square stick would probably work, but I've never tried it.
As I have just finished restoring it I have not ever adjusted the blades before. I think I have a 2mm thick piece of aluminium in the workshop that I will mark the millimeters on.
@@mikeschmitz8355 Hi Mike, this popped up in my feed after all these years. To answer your question accurately I have a stainless steel metric rule that is able to stand on its edge. Works like a charm.
Thanks! My new blades sat for 2 weeks before I attempted. Really helpful closeups and explanation. I marked 1/8 inch gap on the straightedge of a shin and used that as my gauge, but I love your metric ruler. Getting one. Thanks!!!!!!
This video is great. Going to try this method today. In the past for other applications, I've used a spring clamp to clamp a small block of wood to a steel ruler to keep the ruler standing up on its edge.
I used to spend Saturday mornings once a month doing the same thing which in fact is the old-school way. Many years ago I upgraded to a Tersa heads on my machines.
I just bought a similar jointer today at auction, looks to be from the 50's, and has the same type of blades. Been messing with it all night and finally came in to look over the videos and found this, thx! So once I have all the blades parallel, I think I have to raise the out table bc I get some snipe. thx!
I will, thx, my jointer is real bare bones and only minimal adj for the feed side and the out side. I will have to get cute with the tables being co-planed bc all there is on either side is a 45deg raise and lower..whats your e-mail? great job!
you can reach me right here, I usually respond fairly quickly (was away for the last week). There were no adustments for making the tables coplanar on mine either. I had to shim the dovetail ways with strips I cut from an aluminum pop can (that's a soda can if you're American). You can see a little bit of what I did here: imgur.com/a/rgwSp
Used this method to set up a 6" jointer. It worked well, but still takes ages to do. Most often I tapped the blades too hard and had to start again. The relationship between holding the blade just tight enough with the bolt and tapping it to get accurate adjustments takes practice. One blade wouldn't set right on the inside edge. I worked to 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) and it all came together in the end. This will take time. Thanks for the video.
I came looking for how to fasten the blades. So it just relies on the screws being tightened sufficiently to hold them in. That's what it looks like on mine, so just a confirmation. I like the great job you have done on restoring that machine, very clear camera and not a speck of sawdust to be seen.
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid forgot my password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Bobby Walter i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Interesting way to set knives il give it a try.on the screws if you back then all the way out an replaced the flats will be in a different spot to grab with a wrench
+Benjamin Parker Good luck, hope it's useful on your machine. Watch out for stripped gib screws on the old machines. It's extremely common and a real PITA.
Hey Mike, Thanks for the video. I have never owned a jointer until now. I had no idea that the jib screws loosened clockwise (I'm guessing that is what you were referring to). If I didn't watch your video my jointer gib nuts/threads would end up striped just like the ones that you mentioned ;-} I just bought a Astro International" 6" that looks very similar to yours. Same fence style, 2 table adjustment wheels at front. I did a test cut on the top face of a 3-1/4" piece of Oak hardwood flooring yesterday and it was rough. bouncing a lot, terrible finish. I will check out the knives for uniformity using your method. When I did a cut on the side, the cut was actually nice other than a 1-1/2" long by 1/8" deep snipe at the end of the board (Funny because the table was high not low?) Another problem is the out-feed table. it's pretty much seized up, i.e. if I apply any more pressure trying to turn the wheel I'm worried that I break something. I am going to try to spray some wd-40 and use a small wire brush to attempt to clean of the treads. Here's hopin'. This is especially important since the co-plane is out by about 1/8" (I'm getting gauges this week to test more accurately). Basically the table is sagging at both ends. So from what I gather, and which makes sense I should adjust the out-feed to get the table the same height and than shim it? Again thanks for the video, and if you or anyone has any pointers for new/old guy. I'm all ears
Hi Tom, yeah I'd strongly recommend full dis-assembly to clean out the dovetail ways that the tables ride on. There will probably be some set screws that you remove to get them apart. If the outfeed is seized, don't use the screw adjust to break it loose. Remove everything and then whack it with a mallet until it starts to move, probably using ample penetrating lube of some kind. Then you have it right: shim the outfeed to get coplanar. you adjust that one way less, so the shims will stay put. Good luck!
Hey Mike, So... more troubles. I sprayed the outfeed table adjustment wheel threads, but it was still extremely stiff? So I continued to turn it by hand slowly but with a great deal of pressure, I figured something (gunk) had to give. It sure dd ---- ***crack**** a piece of the mechanism that the threaded adjustment rod travels through snapped off. Can I buy a new (old) part for this? I can send photos if anyone wants/needs? This just keeps getting better and better (I brought it on myself though)
Sorry but that's why I suggested disassembly and a mallet. The mechanism isn't going to be strong enough for that purpose. I have no idea about replacement parts I'm afraid. try an expert's site like lumberjocks. Good luck!
Hi Mike very good explaination very good clear image video i have exactly the sa me jointer and i'm planning To remove infeed and outfeed table to have thé left handle repair would you have some tricks for me thanks
Yup, they're pretty basic machines that didn't change for a long time. Effectually they figured out that the fence design wasn't ideal and improved that.
37-280 infeed table is not paralel to plane of outfeed. It responds almost as if the rear pivot arm is shorter than the forward swing arm. Can this be adjusted? Also, the knife grind angle appears to be 37 degrees. Is that the reason why this machine is labeled with "37" ? Tyia for any pertinent info. Enjoy every day.
If you disassemble the dovetail ways you can shim to attain coplanar tables. Always shim the outfeed as you'll move it less often. I used aluminum strips cut from a beer can.
'@that's not my name too' Thanks for your input, but shimming outfeed doesn't negate the 'cam'-like effect of a slanted infeed. [disclaimer] this post could easily be perceived as snarky but is instead simply put, and the address was lighthearted. I like the 'C. E. ' socks also.
I will attempt to make a non-rare magnetic block(s) to assist my 'old' knife resetting. Then I will attempt to sharpen the knives whith a dremel tool, with router base, using whatever flat bottomed stone bits seem most ideal. Then I will probably reset those blades and hone them in place with the only sharpening stone, all be it, not too flat, I have available to me. And when/if there be snipe, this time, they won't be hard to find! I would cut them off ,and burn them to ash!! Then I will just grab the orbital and jitterbug,( delta thickness planer { these are abandoned tools, not my personal} knives are jacked and planer itself seems to have major issues) and grind away the luster of the cedar just as the windows of the soul become hazy and dim when truth and freedom's edges, even conscience, are allowed to be distorted and no longer crisp and in true hue. - This Guy Just fyi, my conscience is clear, just didn't want readers to lose sleep trying to recall the author of the above literary work. Joy in Life.
thanks for the info. this whole process has to be one of the hardest things a craftsman can do. but ill admit if you think this process will be 100%, guess again. like all older models you better be prepared for non perfection. do the best you can. and move on. the old wood workers where artist in their time, and could come close to perfection using this equipment, every day of their good ole lives.
First, it's impossible to tell the difference between zero and -1 or -5mm. It needs to be a positive drag to measure it. Second, you actually want the outfeed a couple thou lower than the blades. It's counter intuitive but testing bears it out. The guys at woodgears.ca did an explanation on it once. That said, after I'm done with a 7mm drag I raise the outfeed a little.
Hello again Mike. I looked at the photos you mentioned. I cleaned up everything connected to the hand wheels on the in feed and out feed side. The wheels move but were very tight; I don't want to force anything in fear of breaking something. I read another comment were you told Tom to disassemble the mallet. Is the mallet the part that the long screw goes that is attached to the handle and exit the side of the table and has the lock screw on it? Thanks for your help Mike.
I was telling Tom to disassemble the tables and mechanisms and then to use a mallet to get them moving. Your tables are stuck too? If so do not force the adjustment wheels as Tom did. Instead you take apart the adjusters. Take the wheel off its axle by loosening the set screw. From there you can thread the axle out of the base.
Great post and upload. I'm rotating my blades and have never been gold with machinery although forced to when blades hit a few nails from old recycled timber. It's been that long I cannot find the instruction papers and accessories. I have a leda or similar. It's a planer thicknesser. The standard blades are not really good quality. I guess it's to reduce cost of machine. In saying that the machines handles thick and heavy timber with ease. I'm very pleased with the machine as it's my second machine. The first machine I bought was not quite powerful enough for what I was using the machine for. So I traded. A few things on the machine could have been made better like plastic turn handles that already split and fell apart. The guide rail is aluminium and not easy pulling out to swap from planer to thickneeser. Like I said I'm not good with machinery and was cursing just pulling the planer cover to change to thicknessing. I also didn't buy a long enough hose for the vacuum so it gets a little in the way when running timber for thicknessing. I put both vacuum and machine on a board with wheels so I can move. The wheels have locking clamps and has been stable to not move. Thanks for the video. I will attempt to set the three blades so I can prepare some more wood today.
Hi Mike, I have an old Planer thicknesser I bought second hand many years ago. It is and old Dewalt table top. The only problem with my machine is the out feed table is not adjustable. what hight do you recommend I take the blade's to.
Not sure honestly. I play with my outfeed height until boards go through perfectly. I'd shoot for a tiny bit above outfeed level. Like a tiny tiny bit.
I like it. I'm new to planers and don't know what to look for other than everything being evenly set. Should i set the outfeed table level with the knives? Yours is obviously lower here. Cheers
It doesn't matter, as long as they're all the same. I wish I had mentioned that in the video. When you're done you set the outfeed height to erase any difference in height. Pick a number that's most common on your initial measurements.
@@mikeschmitz8355 I looked into it a bit more and you’re right, it’s to do with the outfeed height. So for machines without outfeed adjustment you’d want the knife to be the same height as the outfeed table.
@@mikeschmitz8355 I guess a better question would have been how do you calculate how high you raise your outfeed so that it is a hair below the knives?
hi Ernesto, I don't have a video like that, but the trick is to loosen the set-screws that you'll find near the sliding dovetail ways of the machine on both sides, and to fully disassemble the raise/lower mechanisms. I took the tables off by lifting them UP, not by sliding them down. Good luck! Edit: the 4th picture in this album clearly shows the allen-key set screws I'm talking about: imgur.com/a/rgwSp. There's 5 in the pic: 2 on the left, 3 on the right. In the 6th picture there's a closup of a shim I put in. You can see the little bar that "floats" in the dovetail way too. This is the bar that the set screws tension. Loosening the screws may cause that bar to fall out. Collect it and mark its orientation for reinstallation.
Hi Mike I have a 6" planer, second hand, and it looks like the little screws have all sheared off.(gibb screws) i think you called them.Whats the best step to fix this? Thanks.
Hi Mike. So basically, if I'm just starting to make adjustments, I want to do this first before I mess with getting the infeed and outfeed tables coplaner to each other, right?
Well getting the tables coplanar on an older machine is a whole different story. Do that first, then set the knives with this method, then lower the outfeed a hair as necessary.
I know this video is old.......but thanks for the nice instructions. this is my last try.....if i cant fix it ...its going in the trash...........Thank you again......just one question..what was your starting point ? At the first cutting setting ?
The starting point doesn't matter, just put the knives in and measure them all, then go for a number that's convenient. Adjust the outfeed table afterwards.
Your method is so simple and easy to adapt to other jointers. Thank you.
I just picked up this same jointer. Glad to see these old tools in use. This video was very helpful in dialing it in.
This is the best, and most clear explanation I've seen on how to do this. Thanks
Conall Stapleton
This video was a lifesaver. I had kinda gotten to this solution, but your exact method made it much more clear.
I have a very similar Rockwell.
Straight to the point, clear and understandable.
Thank you for sharing this method, I have tried it and got very good results from my old jointer, far better than any other jigs I have tried.
I have a very similar old Craftsman jointer and a knicked blade, so I will be trying this method soon. Thank you for the clever solution .
Good luck, hope it goes smoothly for you.
Trying to set new knives in my grandpa's exact same jointer. Thanks for the precision in your tutorial!
That's cool that you're working on your grandpa's jointer. I love machines with history!
Man, thank you for the video. I thought I had to manually move the knife up or down, but wasn't 100%. Now I can finally get this old hunk of metal spinning.
Did you get it sorted?
Really good explanation.I just bought a planer which needs to be setup and this video has saved me a lot of phonecalls and internet searches
I bought one just like that new in 1976. Your technique for setting the knives is quite creative and should produce good results. I learned to set the knives off a pair of bar magnets on the outfeed table, just overhanging tdc of the cutter head. To finalize the setting, I would lay a sheet of typing paper on the outfeed table and run a large, fine stone across the paper, barely touching the running knives. Our shop teacher in grade 12 taught us how to do it. As long as the kerf is no more than 1/16", it will work. Over the years I went from the Rockwell to a General 6" and on to a General 8". The magnets still reside under its outfeed table.
Mike, that was a tremendous video. I purchased an old jointer many years ago and have struggled with setting the knives ever since - no fancy adjustments on mine - just like yours. Tried everything, including hours on you tube, magnetic alignment products, old tips from old hands - nothing worked. Set my blades tonight using your method and the jointer works like a charm. Made one minor change to the process, I used a small block of wood since it moved cleaner with the blades, and I marked it with a knife to get a very accurate start point, then measured the distance traveled with a dial caliper. After measuring it was just a case of getting the wood to travel the distance set on the lowest reading of the caliper - I swear it's accurate to a fraction of a mill. Thanks man, your video just gave me a jointer and saved my sanity.
John Evans that's great to hear John, thanks for taking the time to write that up. I really enjoy knowing that this is helping people out!
I've watched this video before, but I just wasn't hearin' what you were sayin'. This time it all made sense. I totally understood what you were doing. I think I missed some things that I caught this time. Thanks for the video.
Glad to hear it. Hope it helps you dial your machine in!
Great video. Thank you very much for the helping me straighten out my jointer blades. It is cutting nicer today than ever before.
Pete McNichols - that's awesome! Glad it helped.
Mate! Cheerz so much for this information. Bought a 2nd hand jointer with blades removed. Truely thank you for this as I would’ve not done it this way at all. Cheerz from down under NZ
Glad it helped, cheers back to you from Canada!
Super explanation. no frills, and perfectly clear. Thanks. I have an Axminster machine (UK) spring loaded underneath the knife, so may need to set differently, but all good to see how to do this. First time for me.
I've never used a machine with springs but I imagine the measuring technique here would work just the same. Good luck with your setup!
@@mikeschmitz8355 As you say, the measuring will be exactly the same, just setting the blades will be different. I don't know how strong the springs are, I will find out when the blades arrive in the post I guess.
Good video. Would like to see more about sharpening the blades and setting up the joiner.
Thanks!
Thanks Mike. Your mention of the way the bolts loosen and tighten was very helpful. Getting ready to change my blades and you saved the job from turning into a nightmare. I guarantee they would have been broken or stripped. I have watched many videos before attempting it and yours is the only one that said anything about it.
Awesome, glad it was helpful!
Thanks I've been looking for how set knives on my old jointer finally I found someone to help
Thanks Mike great explination I need to reset my old jointer blades this has being a great help
You did a good job in explaining the procedure.
Excellent information. The straightedge technique and advice about the right-angle pick are very important. I was able to set up the knives accurately and easily on the same model jointer. Thanks.
I'm glad it helped you out Robert!
Exactly what I was looking for and needed to know!
Thank you sir!!
Wow. Thank you. First time I changed the knives. Works perfect.
@@TM62588 great to hear!
My jointer is probably as old as yours! I've heard of that technique and it's the first time I see it. And it's well explain (and clear)! Thank for your work!
je vous en prie!
Great video! I just picked up a Rockwell Model 6 yesterday, which has the same blade arrangement. Haven't been able to find a manual, so every little bit of info helps - and this helps a lot.
Very good how too video. Thanks for taking the time to help us with a difficult setup
My pleasure. thanks for leaving a comment, I always enjoy getting feedback.
My pleasure. thanks for leaving a comment, I always enjoy getting feedback.
Hey, Mike! Thanks for sharing it! It's just what I needed to see to help me out on changing the blades of my old jointer next time. All the best!
You're welcome, glad it helped. All the best!
Best manual setting ever. Thx bro.
Very welcome, glad you liked it.
Loved your video. I'm currently setting up an old craftsman myself and this was a very helpful video. Haven't read through any of the other comments but wanted to share one little thing I figured out for getting the blades balance to the same point. Tried adjusting by hand and kept going too far or not enough. Have one side at 3 and couldn't get the other to match. Then I realized that all I had to do was take the blade to the point where it would be at 3 and put some gentle pressure down on the straight edge which made it set at 3. That easily balanced both sides. Just thought I would share.
Nice tip! I'd be wary of pushing down against the knife blade but done gently it'd be fine.
Thank you for doing this video. I found one of my two knives was way too low. Correcting it made a huge difference! Keep up the great work!
Thanks, glad to hear it helped you out!
Great video! I always dread setting my knives on my jointer! Simplified
this tutorial saved my ass, was 3/16'' from one end to the other, no wonder why my jointer was jointing like crap!
3/16ths? Wow that's **really** uneven. Yeah I bet it works better now!
Et voilà! J'ai très bien réussi le changement des mes lames et c'est la première fois que je fais ça! Done! I've successfully changed my blades and it's a first for me! Thanks again!
Excellent, glad to hear it helped you out!
Thank you for doing this video. just got the used one, You make me happy how to replace the knifes.Thank you!
That's great, enjoy your new jointer!
Appreciate this video. I have just restored on old 50's jointer that was the "table top" version of yours. Blades are at the sharpeners now and then it is complete.
Glad you liked it! What did you use for the straightedge? It was suggested elsewhere that a normal ruler fixed to a nice square stick would probably work, but I've never tried it.
As I have just finished restoring it I have not ever adjusted the blades before. I think I have a 2mm thick piece of aluminium in the workshop that I will mark the millimeters on.
that should work well. Good luck!
@@mikeschmitz8355 Hi Mike, this popped up in my feed after all these years. To answer your question accurately I have a stainless steel metric rule that is able to stand on its edge. Works like a charm.
Thanks! My new blades sat for 2 weeks before I attempted. Really helpful closeups and explanation. I marked 1/8 inch gap on the straightedge of a shin and used that as my gauge, but I love your metric ruler. Getting one. Thanks!!!!!!
Shim, not shin. Ouch.
just purchased a Delta from the 1940's. Thanks for the video!
Awesome, enjoy your new (old) machine!
I was searching for jointer knife setup and had to sub after seeing your name.
Ha, hi there!
A well presented video, this has been made very clear, thanks.
Good tip about using the tape and numbers.And its all about taking your time .
Agreed. Instead of rushing to do this in ten minutes, spend twenty and get it perfect, save yourself an hour of frustration later.
That's awesome mike! I'm messing around with a craftsman from the 50s that needs a lot of work. This is going to help a lot.
The straight edge wide enough to stand upright is the real key. Good luck!
This video is great. Going to try this method today. In the past for other applications, I've used a spring clamp to clamp a small block of wood to a steel ruler to keep the ruler standing up on its edge.
Thomas Lowry that's a good idea. You need the ruler to be heavy too, so maybe clamp a strip of wood all along it that the knives can bite into?
great video thanks i just got a old crafstmaster 6 inch jointer and this video helped alot thanks man
Great idea great instructions. I will use this as a final check when replacing my blades too
Let me know how it works out for you!
I used to spend Saturday mornings once a month doing the same thing which in fact is the old-school way. Many years ago I upgraded to a Tersa heads on my machines.
Thanks for the video this was the best explanation I could find and made so much sense! My jointer was wayyyy offf before haha!!!!
Cheers Joe, thanks for leaving a note. I love seeing that it's helping people!
Exactly what I needed to know, appreciate the video. Working on a 4inch atlas power king that needs new blades
I just bought a similar jointer today at auction, looks to be from the 50's, and has the same type of blades.
Been messing with it all night and finally came in to look over the videos and found this, thx!
So once I have all the blades parallel, I think I have to raise the out table bc I get some snipe. thx!
Joshua Lyon let me know if you have questions. good luck!
I will, thx, my jointer is real bare bones and only minimal adj for the feed side and the out side. I will have to get cute with the tables being co-planed bc all there is on either side is a 45deg raise and lower..whats your e-mail? great job!
you can reach me right here, I usually respond fairly quickly (was away for the last week). There were no adustments for making the tables coplanar on mine either. I had to shim the dovetail ways with strips I cut from an aluminum pop can (that's a soda can if you're American). You can see a little bit of what I did here: imgur.com/a/rgwSp
thx!
WOW thank you! I just got new knifes for my small jointer that was given to me by my father in law and was wondering the best way to do this.
Thank you for the video. Really helped me out.
Used this method to set up a 6" jointer. It worked well, but still takes ages to do. Most often I tapped the blades too hard and had to start again. The relationship between holding the blade just tight enough with the bolt and tapping it to get accurate adjustments takes practice. One blade wouldn't set right on the inside edge. I worked to 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) and it all came together in the end. This will take time. Thanks for the video.
Yeah getting a feel for how hard to tap or pry is definitely a part of this, and will really affect how long it takes. Glad you got there in the end!
Excellent video. Ive seen the use of a straight edge like this before but never using the masking tape and pic to help. Thanks for posting!
Thank you! I have set them thousand times but never measured like you did that is one great idea thank you one more time ! CHEERS
You're very welcome. Glad you found it helpful.
Thanks I am trying to figure out how to do this, Very glad I watched this video, great video and craftsman skills!!!
thanks Marty. happy jointing!
I came looking for how to fasten the blades. So it just relies on the screws being tightened sufficiently to hold them in. That's what it looks like on mine, so just a confirmation. I like the great job you have done on restoring that machine, very clear camera and not a speck of sawdust to be seen.
Thanks for the post Mike, I have been fighting with my blades for a while. I am hoping the "pick" idea helps me out.
Any luck with it?
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid forgot my password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Winston Jamir Instablaster =)
@Bobby Walter i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Bobby Walter It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my ass !
Thank you very much for perfect explanation
Thank you - great explanation! Do you have a video on changing the spring in the guard?
This video was fantastic. Thanks. I bought a jointer pal but had horrid results out of it.
Hey thanks for the feedback, I love knowing that it's helping people out!
@@mikeschmitz8355 My jointer is running great now. Thanks again!!
This is the same way I set mine. very good job. But when setting one end you do have to make sure you don't do a seesaw effect on the other end.
Yes you have to check after making adjustments. I showed that and discussed how to loosen the jib screws properly in the video.
Simply genius! Thanks man!
Thank you, I hope it serves you well!
Interesting way to set knives il give it a try.on the screws if you back then all the way out an replaced the flats will be in a different spot to grab with a wrench
Thanks Mike. Unfortunately I read your post after the fact. I will start a thread somewhere like lumberjocks as you mention. Thanks for your help
Very helpful, very easy, thank you
Very useful instructions--thank you!
Great demostration, Thank you
Great video, thank you 🤜🤛
gonna give this method a try. I have an old walker Turner that I'm trying to get back into operation. thanks
+Benjamin Parker Good luck, hope it's useful on your machine. Watch out for stripped gib screws on the old machines. It's extremely common and a real PITA.
Hey Mike, Thanks for the video.
I have never owned a jointer until now. I had no idea that the jib screws loosened clockwise (I'm guessing that is what you were referring to). If I didn't watch your video my jointer gib nuts/threads would end up striped just like the ones that you mentioned ;-}
I just bought a Astro International" 6" that looks very similar to yours. Same fence style, 2 table adjustment wheels at front. I did a test cut on the top face of a 3-1/4" piece of Oak hardwood flooring yesterday and it was rough. bouncing a lot, terrible finish. I will check out the knives for uniformity using your method. When I did a cut on the side, the cut was actually nice other than a 1-1/2" long by 1/8" deep snipe at the end of the board (Funny because the table was high not low?)
Another problem is the out-feed table. it's pretty much seized up, i.e. if I apply any more pressure trying to turn the wheel I'm worried that I break something. I am going to try to spray some wd-40 and use a small wire brush to attempt to clean of the treads. Here's hopin'. This is especially important since the co-plane is out by about 1/8" (I'm getting gauges this week to test more accurately). Basically the table is sagging at both ends. So from what I gather, and which makes sense I should adjust the out-feed to get the table the same height and than shim it?
Again thanks for the video, and if you or anyone has any pointers for new/old guy. I'm all ears
Hi Tom, yeah I'd strongly recommend full dis-assembly to clean out the dovetail ways that the tables ride on. There will probably be some set screws that you remove to get them apart. If the outfeed is seized, don't use the screw adjust to break it loose. Remove everything and then whack it with a mallet until it starts to move, probably using ample penetrating lube of some kind.
Then you have it right: shim the outfeed to get coplanar. you adjust that one way less, so the shims will stay put. Good luck!
Hey Mike,
So... more troubles. I sprayed the outfeed table adjustment wheel threads, but it was still extremely stiff? So I continued to turn it by hand slowly but with a great deal of pressure, I figured something (gunk) had to give. It sure dd ---- ***crack**** a piece of the mechanism that the threaded adjustment rod travels through snapped off. Can I buy a new (old) part for this?
I can send photos if anyone wants/needs?
This just keeps getting better and better (I brought it on myself though)
Sorry but that's why I suggested disassembly and a mallet. The mechanism isn't going to be strong enough for that purpose. I have no idea about replacement parts I'm afraid. try an expert's site like lumberjocks. Good luck!
Yeah I found that out the hard way. loosen to tighten . I'll never forget that now
Thanks Mike. I recently acquired an old Beaver 3800 from 1950 and I was wondering how the heck I was supposed to set the knives. :)
Thanks, I have a 7 inch Harbor Frieght Jointer. The measureing from both sides seems like a no-brainer. After you suggested it LOL!
Glad you found it helpful!
Thanks from Germany
Great job. you made it easy
Hi Mike very good explaination very good clear image video i have exactly the sa me jointer and i'm planning To remove infeed and outfeed table to have thé left handle repair would you have some tricks for me thanks
The biggest thing about disassembly was getting the big ass nuts off beneath the tables. Tricky to get a regular wrench into that space. Good luck!
Thanks for answering black 👍
To the point and clear directions. Hope you're an instructor. If not, you should consider it....
J K thanks! Perhaps in retirement. I don't think woodworking instruction pays as well as software!
Same for me, great video, thanks a lot 👍👍👍
I just got 1 of these from a family friend. The date of manufacture is 1982. Exactly the same.
Yup, they're pretty basic machines that didn't change for a long time. Effectually they figured out that the fence design wasn't ideal and improved that.
Just what I needed. Thanks!
37-280 infeed table is not paralel to plane of outfeed. It responds almost as if the rear pivot arm is shorter than the forward swing arm. Can this be adjusted? Also, the knife grind angle appears to be 37 degrees. Is that the reason why this machine is labeled with "37" ? Tyia for any pertinent info. Enjoy every day.
If you disassemble the dovetail ways you can shim to attain coplanar tables. Always shim the outfeed as you'll move it less often. I used aluminum strips cut from a beer can.
'@that's not my name too' Thanks for your input, but shimming outfeed doesn't negate the 'cam'-like effect of a slanted infeed.
[disclaimer] this post could easily be perceived as snarky but is instead simply put, and the address was lighthearted. I like the 'C. E. ' socks also.
I will attempt to make a non-rare magnetic block(s) to assist my 'old' knife resetting. Then I will attempt to sharpen the knives whith a dremel tool, with router base, using whatever flat bottomed stone bits seem most ideal. Then I will probably reset those blades and hone them in place with the only sharpening stone, all be it, not too flat, I have available to me. And when/if there be snipe, this time, they won't be hard to find! I would cut them off ,and burn them to ash!! Then I will just grab the orbital and jitterbug,( delta thickness planer { these are abandoned tools, not my personal} knives are jacked and planer itself seems to have major issues) and grind away the luster of the cedar just as the windows of the soul become hazy and dim when truth and freedom's edges, even conscience, are allowed to be distorted and no longer crisp and in true hue. - This Guy
Just fyi, my conscience is clear, just didn't want readers to lose sleep trying to recall the author of the above literary work. Joy in Life.
This is helpful! I appreciate it, thanks.
Great video, thank you
Good tip, any link from where one can buy a ruler like that pls?
It's called a stop rule from Lee Valley. The stop has been removed for this task. Or just tape a stick to a regular ruler so it stands up.
@@mikeschmitz8355 Thanks mate
thanks for the info. this whole process has to be one of the hardest things a craftsman can do. but ill admit if you think this process will be 100%, guess again. like all older models you better be prepared for non perfection. do the best you can. and move on. the old wood workers where artist in their time, and could come close to perfection using this equipment, every day of their good ole lives.
Hello. Very good explanation. Question: why you dont want the drag to be 0?
First, it's impossible to tell the difference between zero and -1 or -5mm. It needs to be a positive drag to measure it.
Second, you actually want the outfeed a couple thou lower than the blades. It's counter intuitive but testing bears it out. The guys at woodgears.ca did an explanation on it once.
That said, after I'm done with a 7mm drag I raise the outfeed a little.
🤔. So, after tou raise the outfeed how much is the drag? Thanks in advance
Hello again Mike. I looked at the photos you mentioned. I cleaned up everything connected to the hand wheels on the in feed and out feed side. The wheels move but were very tight; I don't want to force anything in fear of breaking something. I read another comment were you told Tom to disassemble the mallet. Is the mallet the part that the long screw goes that is attached to the handle and exit the side of the table and has the lock screw on it? Thanks for your help Mike.
I was telling Tom to disassemble the tables and mechanisms and then to use a mallet to get them moving. Your tables are stuck too? If so do not force the adjustment wheels as Tom did. Instead you take apart the adjusters. Take the wheel off its axle by loosening the set screw. From there you can thread the axle out of the base.
This is great. Very helpful. Thanks!
Great post and upload. I'm rotating my blades and have never been gold with machinery although forced to when blades hit a few nails from old recycled timber. It's been that long I cannot find the instruction papers and accessories. I have a leda or similar. It's a planer thicknesser. The standard blades are not really good quality. I guess it's to reduce cost of machine. In saying that the machines handles thick and heavy timber with ease. I'm very pleased with the machine as it's my second machine. The first machine I bought was not quite powerful enough for what I was using the machine for. So I traded. A few things on the machine could have been made better like plastic turn handles that already split and fell apart. The guide rail is aluminium and not easy pulling out to swap from planer to thickneeser. Like I said I'm not good with machinery and was cursing just pulling the planer cover to change to thicknessing.
I also didn't buy a long enough hose for the vacuum so it gets a little in the way when running timber for thicknessing.
I put both vacuum and machine on a board with wheels so I can move. The wheels have locking clamps and has been stable to not move. Thanks for the video. I will attempt to set the three blades so I can prepare some more wood today.
Hi Mike, I have an old Planer thicknesser I bought second hand many years ago. It is and old Dewalt table top. The only problem with my machine is the out feed table is not adjustable. what hight do you recommend I take the blade's to.
Not sure honestly. I play with my outfeed height until boards go through perfectly. I'd shoot for a tiny bit above outfeed level. Like a tiny tiny bit.
very informative and no bs, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
I like it. I'm new to planers and don't know what to look for other than everything being evenly set. Should i set the outfeed table level with the knives? Yours is obviously lower here. Cheers
I address that question near the end of the video.
Such a good tutorial. How do you decide how many mm you want to drag the straight edge?
It doesn't matter, as long as they're all the same. I wish I had mentioned that in the video. When you're done you set the outfeed height to erase any difference in height. Pick a number that's most common on your initial measurements.
@@mikeschmitz8355 I looked into it a bit more and you’re right, it’s to do with the outfeed height. So for machines without outfeed adjustment you’d want the knife to be the same height as the outfeed table.
@@freestyla101 yes, in theory. In practice you want the knives a tiny hair above. I don't understand why but it works better that way.
@@mikeschmitz8355 I guess a better question would have been how do you calculate how high you raise your outfeed so that it is a hair below the knives?
Mike would you have a video on how to remove the infeed and out feed tables on the 37-220 jointer
hi Ernesto, I don't have a video like that, but the trick is to loosen the set-screws that you'll find near the sliding dovetail ways of the machine on both sides, and to fully disassemble the raise/lower mechanisms. I took the tables off by lifting them UP, not by sliding them down. Good luck!
Edit: the 4th picture in this album clearly shows the allen-key set screws I'm talking about: imgur.com/a/rgwSp. There's 5 in the pic: 2 on the left, 3 on the right. In the 6th picture there's a closup of a shim I put in. You can see the little bar that "floats" in the dovetail way too. This is the bar that the set screws tension. Loosening the screws may cause that bar to fall out. Collect it and mark its orientation for reinstallation.
Mike. Thanks you for your response. I will give it a try. Thank you again.
Really good I like that!
Thanks you are the best!
great tip with the tape! thanks
Hi Mike I have a 6" planer, second hand, and it looks like the little screws have all sheared off.(gibb screws) i think you called them.Whats the best step to fix this? Thanks.
You'll likely need to do some deeper diagnostic than what we can do here. I recommend owwm.org/
Where do you find a thick straight edge like the one you use?
Hi Mike. So basically, if I'm just starting to make adjustments, I want to do this first before I mess with getting the infeed and outfeed tables coplaner to each other, right?
Well getting the tables coplanar on an older machine is a whole different story. Do that first, then set the knives with this method, then lower the outfeed a hair as necessary.
I know this video is old.......but thanks for the nice instructions. this is my last try.....if i cant fix it ...its going in the trash...........Thank you again......just one question..what was your starting point ? At the first cutting setting ?
The starting point doesn't matter, just put the knives in and measure them all, then go for a number that's convenient. Adjust the outfeed table afterwards.
Good job 👍😉