NO2C Build Speeduino
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ย. 2024
- This Is the first in a video series of building a Fuel injection system for a 1970 VW Beetle. This is the assembly of the speeduino NO2C board.
Links
NO2C board wtmtronics.com...
VR dual channel conditioner wtmtronics.com...
Stepper driver wtmtronics.com...
Connector www.amazon.com...
Excellent intro video. I am doing the same thing but on a 2ltr type 2 Kombi fitted with Porsche heads and mild cam, so will be watching your other videos carefully and looking forward to it for that matter! Thanks for sharing 🖖
Mr. Jones,
Thank you very much for this and your videos in general. You have answered many outstanding questions that have plagued me.
I have my type 1 2180 running now injected on propane and wasted spark. I'm attempting to modify the code to support dual fuel and advance maps toggled from a switch and an unused input on the Mega thru the daughter board.
Again, Thanks! Great work.
Thanks William. Any bit of hesitation I felt about building the NO2C was eliminated by your video.
I am really glad it help put you at ease.
Thanks for this. I want to start by using one of these for timing control on my Vintage Race Motorcycle. I figure it is a good way for me to get started on something pretty simple. Your vid layed it all out real well.
Great job! Thanks for doing this!
Thanks glad you liked it
Nice video, maybe you have info about the connections, for example, the A1,A2,B1 and B2
Well I can help with that. A1,A2,B1,B2 are the connections for stepper idle air control. they will only work when the optional stepper board is installed. most pins are very well marked. But let me know if you have more questions
@@wjones1972 thanks, it’s possible change for example, some VR1 or VR2 to get a 3rd ignition signial and 3rd injection out?
Thank you, I am planning to print that box but I’m curious if there are any piers to screw the board down
it doesn't I need to revisit the design. it was something I found on thingiverse and I extended it and cut the end to fit my connector.
@@wjones1972 thanks.
I’m just installing firmware on the Mega and don’t know what to install for the base tune, what did you do?
@@wjones1972 thanks.
I’m just installing firmware on the Mega and don’t know what to install for the base tune, what did you do?
Would where I could buy one already assembled? Thank you
Please keep making videos about ur build!
Hello Mr. Jones, I'm getting ready to begin assembly of my No2c board. One major concern that I have is information that clearly defines and identifies the input and output connections ports of the board. For example, at the connector, I see there are connection ports for VR1+, VR1- and VR2+ and VR2-. Also, I see a connection port marked BST, I have searched the internet for information of this connection port of the No2c board and I have not been able to find anything explaining this BST port, What it is , what it is used for and what it does. Would it be possible to do a video that would clearly define and identify the input and output ports of the No2c board.
Fun project!
Thanks Hopefully more to come this weekend
Hello again, question
So, the 24 pin connector, it is the same or similar to the 24 pin on page 161 of the manual where it references the dropbear controller board. That manual section provides the pinout assigned to the 24 pin connector when using that board. Did you, by chance, use this pinout from the manual when you wired yours, even though one could wire it any way they desired. Just curious, If you used the "dropbear" standard, then so will I, if you did not, then I may also rebel and do as I wish :) (tonights the first night I even looked at the manual lol)
I just used my own when I wired it up. I hadn't seen the dropbear when I came up with this one I ordered a case from aliexpress that I thought I could make work but it was to small so I just used the connector. I originally just soldered the wires to the connector and that works but isn't great so than I went to pcbway and made a small board to mount the connector and the wires to so it is more robust.
@@wjones1972 thanks, im doing it my way then
Extremely helpful, thanks! I too am converting a bug to EFI. What are you using for crank / cam signals?
I am using a crank trigger from THEDUPSHOP.com and a cam SYNC from CBPerformance. but you really don't need the cam SYNC for it to work well. I am running batch fire so it doesn't need the cam sync.
In Mexico the last bug generation comes with Euro III EFI. It is a first generation EFI and trigger is performed by a distribuitor with hall sensor. The FI is not sequential is simultaneus. 2 squirts by a complete otto's cycle. Regards from Mexico..
im printing the box, what do you do with the blue tooth module on the cable
I just tucked it in under the connector. I didn't provision it to hold it in place. I should revisit this with more people using it. it was just a quick and dirty design to hold it.
@@wjones1972 gotcha, i was looking for some MAGIC lol. OK, I will do something with it. thanks. I just didnt want to miss out :)
@@wjones1972 I couldn't print your box, you know how the first thing it prints is an oultline of one thread, so it should be a rectangle, I get a 7 sided weird shape, then, it prints only two sides so its a large L, one large side with the circles and one short side. Dont know why
@@wjones1972 ok its printing different now, let me let it run, i used the creality slicer this time.
Printed this time, doesn't seem to like the sli3e program, used reality instead, slice report like hundreds of errors, obviously a slice program problem
Can you provide a link to the documentation. I have not been able to find it for the N2OC. Thanks
About the only info I could find on the board is the following link that's part of why I made the video. speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/V0.2.x_Assembly_Tips
@@wjones1972 Thanks. That is all I could find as well.
can you confirm that the link for your NO2C board includes both the PCB board and the components? because all that for 80 dollars sounds like a deal. "All I would need" is the Arduino Mega and then appropriate ECU connectors correct (and proper setup of software and maybe some other application specific settings)?
That's correct. It includes the board and all the components to build the board. If you are going to run a VR crank or cam you need a VR conditioner board $25 and a stepper driver $5 if you use stepper idle valve.
Also, would you be willing to share the file you used to 3d print the case? Looks really good.
I will paste a link the the one I modified to fit a connector. I started with this model and used tinkercad to make it longer and make a port for the connector. I still need to design a top. I will try to get that done soon and upload both to thingiverse.
@@wjones1972 Thanks. Not sure what thingverse is. Would you be able to provide a link when you are done? thanks
@@nicksauer6749 Sorry I meant to paste a link before. I will paste a link when i finish my mods as well but this is what I started from. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4598001
Very much interested to convert my single cylinder bike to EFI though I am not sure which board to choose. Can anyone help
The NO2C would work well for your bike.
hello , is it possible to get the case file from you ?
Sure it was a very quick change to one I found but I uploaded it to tinkercad for you. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5769002/files
Thank you for your help, I'm printing it now :) I've seen other cases but yours has a great sicma connector. Thank you again.
@@wjones1972 woo hoo i'm stealing it too
how do the jumpers work?
There are a few jumpers to select hall or vr or to select 5 volt or 12 volt. they are all listed in the speeduino documentation.
JP1 - This sets whether the Ignition outputs are 12v or 5v. Note that even if you set this to 12v you should **NOT** connect these directly to a high current coil. These outputs should only ever go to a logic level coil or an igniter
JP2 - Whether or not the RPM1 (Crank) input should be routed via the (Optional) VR conditioner. This should be set to VR when using either a VR sensor or a hall sensor that switches between 0v-12v
JP3 - Same as JP2, but for the RPM2 (Cam) input
JP4 - 1k pullup resistor for RPM1 input. Should be jumpered ('On') when a sensor is used that switches between ground and floating (Which is most hall effect sensors)
JP5 - Same as JP4, but for the RPM2 (Cam) input
I know everything is in the documentation but it’s a little work to sift through. So I built my no2c and bought the VR conditioner, I didn’t understand that all the jumpers, basically have an optional component, until your reply. Thanks. And my board has a jumper next to the stepper output, that I think is to allow writing in ms tuner?
@@spencert4840 Yes the jumper by the stepper driver socket is for reset control. you have to select how you want that jumper to function in the tuner studio options. Basically if you have the car running and you connect the usb it will reset the arduino and the car will die and you have to restart. with reset control the usb doesn't reset the arduino when connected so you can connect the usb when the engine is running without the car dieing. If you feel like a video on how to select the jumpers would be helpful I can shoot and post one
@@wjones1972 Thanks for clarifying that. I would watch that if you made it. I try to learn all I can from videos rather than going to the manual whenever possible. Do you recommend any other channels for learning about speeduino?
@@spencert4840 I posted a video of the jumper settings I am using on my application. let me know if it helps th-cam.com/video/9N8I6GSougM/w-d-xo.html