I didn't watch the whole video so you may have addressed this but this RX works just fine for fixed wing once you get a handle on it. First thing if you simply reverse the aileron and throttle wires at the RX plug you will then have motor control on the correct stick. You can use a Y connector to run power to the RX then on to the servos just remove the signal pin at the servo end and you have 5 volts for the servos. A flight stabilizer is a simple easy way to power your servos. On the input side add one RX signal wire to the Y harness where you previously removed the throttle signal wire then just connect the remaining signal wires from the RX and on the output side plug in your servos. thats it. The Y harness part sounds confusing but just remember the throttle signal only runs between the ESC and RX but all three sides of the Y get power so make sure the throttle signal does not go to the stabilizer.
Thanks for figuring this out. After analyzing this I was thinking about just doing 3 broken rows of 6, offset the pin outs wire it then glue them. So In the end it lines up just like how you got it. Thank you dude! Brilliant
I have actually designed a small PCB that transfer the pins from the PWM port to regular 3 pins for servo and voltage regulator to be connected directly with the FS-X6B. See this link: www.ebay.com/itm/184100616268
U got the wrong receiver, it’s meant for a flight controller (Apm, pixhawk etc.) you need a receiver like the IA6B or IA10B. Keep up the work, it seems like u are a smart guy. 👍
Hi Thomas, You can still use this receiver without a problem. (It's still one of the preferred receiver for me) Either solder like MiroRC did or get this adapter board: ebay.us/DGwmts?cmpnId=5338273189
I have the exact same setup and the exact same problem. My theory for fixing was very similar.. You just confirmed it for me.. great video and super useful for those that just don't understand how - this will help a lot of people..
Howdy there, I have actually designed a small PCB that transfer the pins from the PWM port to regular 3 pins for servo and voltage regulator to be connected directly with the FS-X6B. See this link: www.ebay.com/itm/184100616268
Thanks for the video! I've had an x6b lying about that came with my tx and didn't think I could use it, but it's running a mini discus launched glider now :)
You do realize you can purchase headers with long pins on both sides of the plastic so you don't have to 'adjust' the pins in the plastic as you did. And you get a much better connection to your Dupont connectors with the longer pins.
Great idea and solution. Thanks. Just use more loops and possibly a bit thicker wire. With many chanels used, thin wire could burn out and you would lose control on some servos = crash...
Suggestion - set one 'line' of pins right out of the plastic, and the other two right down. Then wire/solder halfway down the upright one - a straight wire, no twist. Then tease that gently down to its rest position. Repeat for the other two 'lines'. Happy flying, and thanks for the video!, Den.
Yes, you need to calibrate the esc. It's very simple to do. 1). Turn ON the transmitter. The airplane is OFF. 2). Up the throttle to 100% 3). Turn ON the airplane with the motor attached. Make sure you don't have a propeller for safety. (beep beep) 4). Down the throttle to 0%. It will beep a few times to let you know it's complete. It will now start from 0%.
I'd be interested in this receiver only because of the integrated external voltage sensor. Is there something else you need to set up? Because your external voltage reads 0.00V. Also, instead of making that complicated contraption I'd just take off the connectors and solder common voltage together ;)
You'll need an additional 3-pin micro JST cable plugged into the bottom of the board. You only need the middle positive lead. I connect that to the balance port of the battery. It work up to 18V but I think I've connected all 6 cells on 6S before and it worked fine. Be careful tho. If you connect the ground also, it will power up the board trough the voltage sensor. Here's a photo: photos.app.goo.gl/SF1MpqSFqugCjNxd6
Or if you are skilled. You can solder a wire directly to the Bat solder spot next to the Voltage connector on the board. And run a wire just listed as this picture. captu.re/a/rykul1lvQH-be4Bh-SinOw
some double sided through hole plated PCB would save a lot of time over weaving that tiny wire. It's cheap and would let you solder all that needed wiring. No superglue needed either. Very helpful video otherwise, I had no idea how to use the x6b with my plane, thanks.
Helpful video. Thanks! About the only solution I could find online to this issue. Have you flight tested it? I've just done it myself and it's fine on the bench but I'm a bit concerned about current carrying ability and longevity of the connections..... Ps you can get long pin header blocks eg 3x12 that are made for FCS. That saves having to super glue bits together.
Glad I could help. I did flight test it and you're right -- it does seem to have a lot of issues. One problem is that the pins are not long enough to plug cables on each end which causes them to come off very easily. Solution was to wrap electrical tape around. The other problem I've experienced is that even after a light crash the glued parts would come apart and no longer make contact with the weaved wire. Since then I've done a few improvements such as soldered wire, additional galvanized wire (ps. it's not aluminum) to hold the converter together, removed plastic housing for easier connection. (the soldered pins became too think to be plugged in with the plastic) Take a look here: photos.app.goo.gl/maWpF7caPpF1G8ib2 P.S. I'm working on a new version using a prototype PCB and longer pin headers. Stay tuned for a new video. Good luck!
Hi, I intend to use this Radio Control for a sailboat in which case I only need two servos. So if I power the receiver with an external battery and follow your work here, I just would have to plug the second servo in any of the other five sockets and it will work with no problem and independently one servo from the other ?. Please, answer me. Thanks in advance for your reply and greetings from Santiago de Chile. South America. This is John.
Hello, i want to use that receiver and also a pdb and flight controller for a quad. All under ibus. At the same time, I like radio to activate a servo. I dont know if that can be done from ibus and if it can, what do I have to do with the flight controller or pdb for connection. Controller is matek 405 std and pdb is PDB-XT60 W/ BEC 5V & 12V. Thanks !
I’m confused how to get my servo to work with my x6b , I have it connected to the first 3 pins GROUND POWER Ch1 How do set up my transmitter for each channel , I have flysky i6s and I’m just confused cause I’ve never used pwm before , transmitter is set to pwm , thanks
Hello. Thanks for the video. Do u have any new ideas why motor starts to work at 50%? I think i will have the same problem with my fs-a6b after it arrives to me =) Btw I think u can solder your converter to the back side of the reciever (there are some pads for this) Another option is to cut all the female connectors and solder all those wires to your converter. I think that the way ill do that, because im going to use this pwm port only for planes.=) One more question: is there a way to use voltage sensor port together with PWM port? Maybe u need to cut the power wires from ESC in this case?
You're welcome. The reason it starts from 50% is because the ESC needed to be calibrated. It's very easy to do: 1) Turn on your TX and put the throttle stick all the way up. 2) Power up the RX and make sure ESC is on correct channel (Ch 3 on yellow wire in my case). 3) Lower the throttle stick all the way down. The motor will beep a few times to let you know it was calibrated. Now it starts from the very bottom. You can solder it to the back if you wish. There are pads only for the the signal though. You'll still need cables for +/-. I just didn't want to solder anything on my brand new RX ;) Cutting the female cables and soldering directly is probably the best option for you. Since I'm new, I didn't want to ruin the cable in case I need it. I can't test the voltage sensor port because I don't have a voltage sensor but I believe it's completely independent from what RX protocol you use. I don't think that the voltage sensor will power up the RX on it's own like a BEC does. (Check this out /watch?v=e5TOmAgm-qY) Mine already has an internal voltage sensor that shows you the power coming from the ESC+BEC (which is around 5V) The external power is shown as 0v so I think if you hook up a sensor it will show you the power. No need to cut the ESC out I think. Thanks and good luck!
Found these 2.54mm Male Crimps. Going to recrimp female connectors from X6B into male ones and glue them together =) ru.aliexpress.com/item/200pcs-2-54mm-Dupont-Jumper-Wire-Cable-Housing-Male-Connector-Terminal-Crimps/32547824578.html?spm=2114.10010208.1000016.1.OEtfN5&isOrigTitle=true
because the white wire is channel 1!! you need to put the channel 3 yellow wire to the place of the white wire and that will be assinged to the left gimbal on your transmitter if you are using mode 2
Good luck too you too! Looks like your channel will make many subscribers in the future because the quality of your videos are great and you have already posted some videos! I hope you get many subscribers in the future :) ;)
This is the only video i've found on connecting the x6b to pwm servos. Thank you. Maybe put PWM in the title as it was hard to find. This is the only way to get a small receiver for PWM on flysky/turnigy isn't it? The ia6b is the smallest at the moment, or is there something else? Thanks.
Good call. Added PWM in title. The IA6 (without B) is a bit smaller than the B ver. It weighs ony 6.5 grams but the range is probably poorer. Another option is to buy a cheap Flight Controller from China and hook it up using PPM. (bit.ly/CC3D-FC) That way you can play around with stabilization and gyros or use it when you get a drone... Good Luck!
The X mount came with the brushless motor and 8 screws. 4 for the motor and 4 for whatever you're mounting to. You can find just the plate with all screws though: www.banggood.com/Volantex-V757-6-Ranger-G2-FPV-RC-Airplane-Spare-Part-Motor-Mount-With-Screws-p-1356350.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
Its a lot easier buying a fky sky micro 4 channel receiver, you hsve the choice soldering the pins to pcb or direct solder you esc/servo wires directly to it. All together it's much lighter than this setup.
We shld not buy this RX if we use it PWM protocol. Bt if we hv ths one extra laying down at home , wanna use it, then ths mod is useful really. I hv ths RX used in PPM Protocol in drone.
5:30 WOW, DUMB! Drill 3 holes into a block of wood to the depth you need them to protrude on the longer side, then clip it to 3 pins and press that straight down into the 3 holes in the wood, the black plastic will stop at the wood surface as all 3 pins are repositioned!
![FS-IA6 not Binding Problem [Solution in Description]](/img/n.gif)
I didn't watch the whole video so you may have addressed this but this RX works just fine for fixed wing once you get a handle on it. First thing if you simply reverse the aileron and throttle wires at the RX plug you will then have motor control on the correct stick. You can use a Y connector to run power to the RX then on to the servos just remove the signal pin at the servo end and you have 5 volts for the servos. A flight stabilizer is a simple easy way to power your servos. On the input side add one RX signal wire to the Y harness where you previously removed the throttle signal wire then just connect the remaining signal wires from the RX and on the output side plug in your servos. thats it.
The Y harness part sounds confusing but just remember the throttle signal only runs between the ESC and RX but all three sides of the Y get power so make sure the throttle signal does not go to the stabilizer.
Fantastic! You removed the haze and made it all clear for me. I now know how to set up my X6B receiver.
Hello friend, the world is easy because of the friends like you. Your tutorial is so vivid that a novice can learn from this. Thanks for your work.
Thanks for figuring this out. After analyzing this I was thinking about just doing 3 broken rows of 6, offset the pin outs wire it then glue them. So In the end it lines up just like how you got it. Thank you dude! Brilliant
I have actually designed a small PCB that transfer the pins from the PWM port to regular 3 pins for servo and voltage regulator to be connected directly with the FS-X6B. See this link: www.ebay.com/itm/184100616268
U got the wrong receiver, it’s meant for a flight controller (Apm, pixhawk etc.) you need a receiver like the IA6B or IA10B. Keep up the work, it seems like u are a smart guy. 👍
Hi Thomas, You can still use this receiver without a problem. (It's still one of the preferred receiver for me) Either solder like MiroRC did or get this adapter board: ebay.us/DGwmts?cmpnId=5338273189
you literaly missed the point of this whole video. this reviever does pwm output....
I have the exact same setup and the exact same problem. My theory for fixing was very similar..
You just confirmed it for me.. great video and super useful for those that just don't understand how - this will help a lot of people..
This was exactly what I was looking for - thank you. This receiver is a bit tricky to set up, but I am glad there IS a solution!
Howdy there, I have actually designed a small PCB that transfer the pins from the PWM port to regular 3 pins for servo and voltage regulator to be connected directly with the FS-X6B. See this link: www.ebay.com/itm/184100616268
litejk01 looks good, thanks!
The part where you weave the wire is very smart and easy!
Thanks for the video! I've had an x6b lying about that came with my tx and didn't think I could use it, but it's running a mini discus launched glider now :)
You do realize you can purchase headers with long pins on both sides of the plastic so you don't have to 'adjust' the pins in the plastic as you did. And you get a much better connection to your Dupont connectors with the longer pins.
Great idea and solution. Thanks.
Just use more loops and possibly a bit thicker wire.
With many chanels used, thin wire could burn out and you would lose control on some servos = crash...
Suggestion - set one 'line' of pins right out of the plastic, and the other two right down. Then wire/solder halfway down the upright one - a straight wire, no twist. Then tease that gently down to its rest position. Repeat for the other two 'lines'. Happy flying, and thanks for the video!, Den.
Hi, were you able to solve the problem of motor spinning after 50% throttle?
Yes, you need to calibrate the esc. It's very simple to do.
1). Turn ON the transmitter. The airplane is OFF.
2). Up the throttle to 100%
3). Turn ON the airplane with the motor attached. Make sure you don't have a propeller for safety. (beep beep)
4). Down the throttle to 0%.
It will beep a few times to let you know it's complete.
It will now start from 0%.
I'd be interested in this receiver only because of the integrated external voltage sensor. Is there something else you need to set up? Because your external voltage reads 0.00V.
Also, instead of making that complicated contraption I'd just take off the connectors and solder common voltage together ;)
You'll need an additional 3-pin micro JST cable plugged into the bottom of the board. You only need the middle positive lead. I connect that to the balance port of the battery. It work up to 18V but I think I've connected all 6 cells on 6S before and it worked fine. Be careful tho. If you connect the ground also, it will power up the board trough the voltage sensor. Here's a photo: photos.app.goo.gl/SF1MpqSFqugCjNxd6
Or if you are skilled. You can solder a wire directly to the Bat solder spot next to the Voltage connector on the board. And run a wire just listed as this picture. captu.re/a/rykul1lvQH-be4Bh-SinOw
some double sided through hole plated PCB would save a lot of time over weaving that tiny wire. It's cheap and would let you solder all that needed wiring. No superglue needed either. Very helpful video otherwise, I had no idea how to use the x6b with my plane, thanks.
Helpful video. Thanks! About the only solution I could find online to this issue. Have you flight tested it? I've just done it myself and it's fine on the bench but I'm a bit concerned about current carrying ability and longevity of the connections.....
Ps you can get long pin header blocks eg 3x12 that are made for FCS. That saves having to super glue bits together.
Glad I could help. I did flight test it and you're right -- it does seem to have a lot of issues. One problem is that the pins are not long enough to plug cables on each end which causes them to come off very easily. Solution was to wrap electrical tape around. The other problem I've experienced is that even after a light crash the glued parts would come apart and no longer make contact with the weaved wire. Since then I've done a few improvements such as soldered wire, additional galvanized wire (ps. it's not aluminum) to hold the converter together, removed plastic housing for easier connection. (the soldered pins became too think to be plugged in with the plastic) Take a look here: photos.app.goo.gl/maWpF7caPpF1G8ib2 P.S. I'm working on a new version using a prototype PCB and longer pin headers. Stay tuned for a new video. Good luck!
Excellent explanation. Well done!
Hi, I intend to use this Radio Control for a sailboat in which case I only need two servos. So if I power the receiver with an external battery and follow your work here, I just would have to plug the second servo in any of the other five sockets and it will work with no problem and independently one servo from the other ?. Please, answer me.
Thanks in advance for your reply and greetings from Santiago de Chile. South America.
This is John.
Very good job from your part It will save me a lot of precious time Thanks :)
21:10 starts running from the middle because you have to be over 50% duty cycle on your PWM signal for it to start working
Thanks for making these video.
Can you please mentione the receiver and servo purchase link?
I want to buy these to follow your video.
You meant Shorted when you said shortened, as in electrically connected to each other.
Oh yes 😅 thanks!
Hello, i want to use that receiver and also a pdb and flight controller for a quad. All under ibus. At the same time, I like radio to activate a servo. I dont know if that can be done from ibus and if it can, what do I have to do with the flight controller or pdb for connection. Controller is matek 405 std and pdb is PDB-XT60 W/ BEC 5V & 12V. Thanks !
Thank u so much . That was very easy. But i needed ur help to get this idea
Smart guy
I’m confused how to get my servo to work with my x6b , I have it connected to the first 3 pins
GROUND
POWER
Ch1
How do set up my transmitter for each channel , I have flysky i6s and I’m just confused cause I’ve never used pwm before , transmitter is set to pwm , thanks
is this fixed yet?
Hello. Thanks for the video. Do u have any new ideas why motor starts to work at 50%? I think i will have the same problem with my fs-a6b after it arrives to me =)
Btw I think u can solder your converter to the back side of the reciever (there are some pads for this)
Another option is to cut all the female connectors and solder all those wires to your converter. I think that the way ill do that, because im going to use this pwm port only for planes.=)
One more question: is there a way to use voltage sensor port together with PWM port? Maybe u need to cut the power wires from ESC in this case?
You're welcome. The reason it starts from 50% is because the ESC needed to be calibrated. It's very easy to do: 1) Turn on your TX and put the throttle stick all the way up. 2) Power up the RX and make sure ESC is on correct channel (Ch 3 on yellow wire in my case). 3) Lower the throttle stick all the way down. The motor will beep a few times to let you know it was calibrated. Now it starts from the very bottom.
You can solder it to the back if you wish. There are pads only for the the signal though. You'll still need cables for +/-. I just didn't want to solder anything on my brand new RX ;) Cutting the female cables and soldering directly is probably the best option for you. Since I'm new, I didn't want to ruin the cable in case I need it.
I can't test the voltage sensor port because I don't have a voltage sensor but I believe it's completely independent from what RX protocol you use. I don't think that the voltage sensor will power up the RX on it's own like a BEC does. (Check this out /watch?v=e5TOmAgm-qY) Mine already has an internal voltage sensor that shows you the power coming from the ESC+BEC (which is around 5V) The external power is shown as 0v so I think if you hook up a sensor it will show you the power. No need to cut the ESC out I think. Thanks and good luck!
Found these 2.54mm Male Crimps. Going to recrimp female connectors from X6B into male ones and glue them together =)
ru.aliexpress.com/item/200pcs-2-54mm-Dupont-Jumper-Wire-Cable-Housing-Male-Connector-Terminal-Crimps/32547824578.html?spm=2114.10010208.1000016.1.OEtfN5&isOrigTitle=true
because the white wire is channel 1!! you need to put the channel 3 yellow wire to the place of the white wire and that will be assinged to the left gimbal on your transmitter if you are using mode 2
well just needed esc calibration as MicroRC states above.(just wasnt patient enough to wait until the end of the video!!!)
Great video helpful to me 😃 subbed!!
Thanks for the help! Great content for a starting channel! I am now considering buying one now. I subbed you!
Thank you so much! You are my first subscriber. Good luck with your channel. I subbed back ;)
Good luck too you too! Looks like your channel will make many subscribers in the future because the quality of your videos are great and you have already posted some videos! I hope you get many subscribers in the future :) ;)
THIS IS THE VIDEO I WANTED
Man the x6b is great receiver but female to female is not hahha
and what motors are you using?
Bro does it connect with Fly SkyCTB 6
What ESC's are you using?
This is the only video i've found on connecting the x6b to pwm servos. Thank you.
Maybe put PWM in the title as it was hard to find.
This is the only way to get a small receiver for PWM on flysky/turnigy isn't it?
The ia6b is the smallest at the moment, or is there something else?
Thanks.
Good call. Added PWM in title.
The IA6 (without B) is a bit smaller than the B ver. It weighs ony 6.5 grams but the range is probably poorer.
Another option is to buy a cheap Flight Controller from China and hook it up using PPM. (bit.ly/CC3D-FC) That way you can play around with stabilization and gyros or use it when you get a drone... Good Luck!
Are those micro jst connectors on this RX channels 1 to 3? 2 on 1 side and 1 on the other?
Thanks much ! Great work
Dumb question, but what are the screws you used to screw that X plate to your brushless?
The X mount came with the brushless motor and 8 screws. 4 for the motor and 4 for whatever you're mounting to. You can find just the plate with all screws though: www.banggood.com/Volantex-V757-6-Ranger-G2-FPV-RC-Airplane-Spare-Part-Motor-Mount-With-Screws-p-1356350.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
excellent vid
Its a lot easier buying a fky sky micro 4 channel receiver, you hsve the choice soldering the pins to pcb or direct solder you esc/servo wires directly to it. All together it's much lighter than this setup.
smart teaching. Thanks for the video.
what company Esc's?
Hello MiroRC, how did you correct the throttle stick? I want my throttle to be in Ch. 3 in mode 2(stick) pls help!
At 20:34 I mentioned it. You need to connect the ESC to the yellow cable of the X6B which is channel 3 or throttle on mode 2.
will it work with flysky i6s ?
tnx tnx tnx a lot. I could not figure how to use this I bus for rc planes. u thought me tnx a lot
i think its easier if u solder those pin to pcb board.
Pano Mag order
Thank you a loooot...
We shld not buy this RX if we use it PWM protocol. Bt if we hv ths one extra laying down at home , wanna use it, then ths mod is useful really. I hv ths RX used in PPM Protocol in drone.
what about range?
what about it? It's 300 meters according to spec.
5:30 WOW, DUMB!
Drill 3 holes into a block of wood to the depth you need them to protrude on the longer side, then clip it to 3 pins and press that straight down into the 3 holes in the wood, the black plastic will stop at the wood surface as all 3 pins are repositioned!
Just solder them lol
Great video, But what a pain in the butt