Olivio im new to Affinity Photo and I must say Im impressed with the software. Im recommending it to people. Since this transition from Photoshop your tutorials have been my main source to getting to know this software. Thanks for all the work you do.
Noticed the example photos were shot on a Sony camera. I use the Sony bluetooth Commander remote that has manual focus - + controls. Best bit if gear I've purchased in while.
Use a camera which has focus bracketing, then import the shots into Affinity using the "File - new stack". You only need around 8 photos for a flower shot like the one above. Of course if your camera has inbuilt focus stacking there is no need to use external software. Many cameras such as including Panasonic LUMIX, Olympus OM-D, Nikon’s Z 6, Z 7 and D850 have focus stacking or bracketing.
My Olympus cameras got both bracketing and stacking, but I stick with bracketing as it is more versatile. For higher magnification work I use a electrical stepper motor rail and special lenses and microscope objectives :)
That's awesome, but Sony A7iii doesn't have that function as far as I know :) - 8 photos are probably enough with good light, but I ended up having thin blurry lines where no sharpness is covered, so I rather took some more photos. Especially because when you adjust the focus by hand, it's kind of hard to know if you actually covered everything. And like I said in the video, the focus moves in different speeds over the surface, depending on the surface angle towards the lens
@@OlivioSarikas A good rule of thumb in the extreme macro and focus stacking communities is to have 20-30% of overlap between the images in your series. So rather have too many images than too few. I have had problems with the blurry lines too, but another artifact to look out for is inconsistent lighting which will make a striped effect of different exposures. Same goes for white balance. Ultimatly chromatic aberration and too high f-stops can be a big problem too. I had my most recent stacks at 10:1 magnification ruined due to chromatic aberration caused by misalignment between my tube lens and microscope objective. Which are gonna be some points I will include I will try to do some youtube videos about focus stacking and extreme macro projects in the future.
Another great video, thanks. Photo merge in AP is nice. I use it on landscape photo when shot in portrait orientation with an interesting foreground or when keep my camera very low. Normally 3 shots (fore, mid and back). Now the season give us a lot of mushroom and not to much wind so this is another great opportunity to shot macros. James Ritson is a great teacher.
You just need an Olympus camera -- no tripod needed but it does help . Not sure why I don't use the function more however I have worked a way to take two hand held photos to manually merge in Affinity to get better depth of field . Book marked to do a refresher course as you seem to always show some "new" idea 🙂
If that works, that's great too. But given the chance, I would probably still use a tripod in this case, just because I like to fiddle around with the setup, and take several shots with slight changes 😀
I use CameraPixels and Camera+2 apps on an iPhone with Moment lenses to obtain up to 50 focus-bracketed images, and then stack and merge them in Affinity Photo on my MacBook Pro laptop. Results are almost as good as obtained from multi-thousand dollar systems. Thank you, I need all the help I can get.
Another great tutorial. I’ve focus stacked in AP recently & did alright considering what I had to work with. Didn’t’t use the filters or dehaze though. Great info.
This was a good video but it was well over half on subjects not included in the title. Perhaps that is because Affinity Photo has so few controls on stacking. I realize you are not a Canon user but my main reason for watching this video was to see whether I wanted to use Affinity Photo with my Canon RP which offers the Focus Bracketing feature exposing a series of (up to 999) shots each differing in focus by an adjustable amount (minute to coarse). Canon free software DPP4 will combine/stack these images producing a TIF from input RAW using adjustments to the RAW as you wish. That TIF, of course can be further refined in Affinity Photo. The question not covered here is why I might want to try Affinity Photo stacking instead. A little experimenting suggested that Affinity handled manually exposed series where there were differences (irregular spacings?) just a little better in one case since the Canon software really wants a clean series as created by the built in routine. DPP4 would do manual series made with older cameras but sometimes balked when it failed to recognize the images were a series. A question is whether you got better results shooting more originals at a wider aperture like f/5.6 or fewer stopped down to f/11. Also there is the question whether it is better to stack relatively uncorrected RAW/TIF files or to adjust / sharpen each input image separately before stacking. Have you tested this? I am new to Affinity Photo and learning some controls slowly. I do not find the s/w intuitive. All I can say is I like it better than Photoshop probably to some degree because of your videos. Thank you.
![NISAMANEE - TADA (ท้าดา) [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hcQHEPMmJpU/mqdefault.jpg)
Olivio im new to Affinity Photo and I must say Im impressed with the software. Im recommending it to people. Since this transition from Photoshop your tutorials have been my main source to getting to know this software. Thanks for all the work you do.
Noticed the example photos were shot on a Sony camera. I use the Sony bluetooth Commander remote that has manual focus - + controls. Best bit if gear I've purchased in while.
Thank you that’s going help a lot
Just what I was looking for! Thank you!
You are welcome, my friend
Use a camera which has focus bracketing, then import the shots into Affinity using the "File - new stack". You only need around 8 photos for a flower shot like the one above. Of course if your camera has inbuilt focus stacking there is no need to use external software. Many cameras such as including Panasonic LUMIX, Olympus OM-D, Nikon’s Z 6, Z 7 and D850 have focus stacking or bracketing.
My Olympus cameras got both bracketing and stacking, but I stick with bracketing as it is more versatile.
For higher magnification work I use a electrical stepper motor rail and special lenses and microscope objectives :)
That's awesome, but Sony A7iii doesn't have that function as far as I know :) - 8 photos are probably enough with good light, but I ended up having thin blurry lines where no sharpness is covered, so I rather took some more photos. Especially because when you adjust the focus by hand, it's kind of hard to know if you actually covered everything. And like I said in the video, the focus moves in different speeds over the surface, depending on the surface angle towards the lens
@@OlivioSarikas A good rule of thumb in the extreme macro and focus stacking communities is to have 20-30% of overlap between the images in your series. So rather have too many images than too few.
I have had problems with the blurry lines too, but another artifact to look out for is inconsistent lighting which will make a striped effect of different exposures. Same goes for white balance.
Ultimatly chromatic aberration and too high f-stops can be a big problem too.
I had my most recent stacks at 10:1 magnification ruined due to chromatic aberration caused by misalignment between my tube lens and microscope objective.
Which are gonna be some points I will include I will try to do some youtube videos about focus stacking and extreme macro projects in the future.
Another great video, thanks. Photo merge in AP is nice. I use it on landscape photo when shot in portrait orientation with an interesting foreground or when keep my camera very low. Normally 3 shots (fore, mid and back). Now the season give us a lot of mushroom and not to much wind so this is another great opportunity to shot macros. James Ritson is a great teacher.
That sounds really awesome. Please share some of these shots in my Facebook Group 😍
@@OlivioSarikas Of course. I just need time to prepare the material and description of the workflow...
You just need an Olympus camera -- no tripod needed but it does help . Not sure why I don't use the function more however I have worked a way to take two hand held photos to manually merge in Affinity to get better depth of field .
Book marked to do a refresher course as you seem to always show some "new" idea 🙂
If that works, that's great too. But given the chance, I would probably still use a tripod in this case, just because I like to fiddle around with the setup, and take several shots with slight changes 😀
I use CameraPixels and Camera+2 apps on an iPhone with Moment lenses to obtain up to 50 focus-bracketed images, and then stack and merge them in Affinity Photo on my MacBook Pro laptop. Results are almost as good as obtained from multi-thousand dollar systems. Thank you, I need all the help I can get.
Another great tutorial. I’ve focus stacked in AP recently & did alright considering what I had to work with. Didn’t’t use the filters or dehaze though. Great info.
Always happy to help :)
Excellent !
Thank you very much :)
thank you, brilliant
Thank you for the kind words
Another great video
Thank you, Marshall
Finally!! Thanks
You are very welcome, my Friend 😍
This was a good video but it was well over half on subjects not included in the title. Perhaps that is because Affinity Photo has so few controls on stacking. I realize you are not a Canon user but my main reason for watching this video was to see whether I wanted to use Affinity Photo with my Canon RP which offers the Focus Bracketing feature exposing a series of (up to 999) shots each differing in focus by an adjustable amount (minute to coarse). Canon free software DPP4 will combine/stack these images producing a TIF from input RAW using adjustments to the RAW as you wish. That TIF, of course can be further refined in Affinity Photo. The question not covered here is why I might want to try Affinity Photo stacking instead. A little experimenting suggested that Affinity handled manually exposed series where there were differences (irregular spacings?) just a little better in one case since the Canon software really wants a clean series as created by the built in routine. DPP4 would do manual series made with older cameras but sometimes balked when it failed to recognize the images were a series. A question is whether you got better results shooting more originals at a wider aperture like f/5.6 or fewer stopped down to f/11. Also there is the question whether it is better to stack relatively uncorrected RAW/TIF files or to adjust / sharpen each input image separately before stacking. Have you tested this? I am new to Affinity Photo and learning some controls slowly. I do not find the s/w intuitive. All I can say is I like it better than Photoshop probably to some degree because of your videos. Thank you.
Can I use my Canon 90D auto stack shoot.
👍👍👍👍❤
Hi Olivio, Does the software align the pictures before stacking them? In case you take a handheld stack for example...
Yes