Super. When I bought my two Mantua/Tyco EMD GP-20 locomotives, so long ago, painted in the Chicago, Burlington, & Quincy/Burlington Route Chinese Red paint scheme, which I love, I was not only excited, but l had a plan. One had the MU-2 motor drive, and one had the Powertorque drive. I switched the Powertorque drive to my Tyco Baldwin RF-16 Sharknose and added extra geared wheels and three axle sideframes and my own railroads paint scheme, because I wanted a Baldwin BP-20 Passenger Sharknose locomotive, and I put the four axle Tyco ALCO truck sideframes on the formally Powertorqued GP-20, because I wanted a ALCO trucked EMD GP-20 DUMMY with track powered lighting. All three got full lighting packages and had their traction tire slots filled in. I also installed extra weight and window glass, changed the couplers, added store bought details, and both the powered and now dummy GP-20s acquired dynamic brake blisters from two Lionel GP-9s, as only the New York Central had GP-20 locomotives without dynamic brakes. Forty years later, all three locomotives have survived and are in continous operation, with the only restriction being that I no longer let the Shark operate outside, mostly to keep leaves and gravel out of the exposed gears. All three have a beautiful patina after all the years of operation, as does much of my older rolling stock, and look very realistic. I may also have the last Tyco Powertorque driven unit not only still in service after 40 years, but actually in daily operation, that exists on this planet. 🙂 The dual motored, twelve wheel drive Shark has pulled 35 freight cars without issue, on my mainline grades, but nowadays it pulls my 6 car passenger commuter train most of the time, sometimes pairing up with a Fairbanks Morse CPA24-5 C-Liner dummy if they are running late. The GP-20 operates as smooth as silk and will pull ten cars with the GP-20 dummy, or sixteen without it, which isn't bad for a four wheel drive locomotive with no traction tires. If the Geep needs help, I have plenty of power to add to the train. Good job fixing the locomotive. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado, and thanks for the forty year old memories.💙 T.E.N.
@@aaronsadowski1691 its a vintage soldering iron. My grandfather had 2of those . i believe they were by craftsman or something had lights on them it is big but maybe what he like to use. I bought a cheap one and it works good but they so cheaply made the soldering point got hot enough it isntstraight in the holder anymore.
I have one of those in Santa Fe freight colors. Fairly well detailed. I despise the drive unit on these so I kitbashed it with the chassis of an Athearn GP35. It's a fairly easy conversion. Had to remove the dimples under the shell where hand rail stands attach. Little bit of metal removal from the frame and it goes together very well. Fortunately the GP35 chassis is exactly the right length. I also did the same with the Tyco Alco Century but I used an Athearn SD9 chassis. It's 6 axle instead of 4 but so what! If someone questions it just give them a back story. (When the Soo Line ordered new GP30s in the early 60s they insisted on Alco trucks under them.) Both locos run great and will MU easily with other Athearns. Only important thing is you'll need to use the later narrow Athearn motors. The old wide motors won't fit.
I would love for all the naysayers on forums who say “there’s no parts available” or “not worth fixing” in regards to the older, “lower-end stuff” to watch a few of your videos so you can prove this to them......
They might not be worth fixing to some people but I don't really care, I enjoy fixing them and isn't the point of the hobby to enjoy what you're doing?
I’ve also read complaints about their pulling power. So I went and tested mine. Tested 2 Tyco/Mantua GP20s with MU-2 motor. One pulled 14, the other 12. Both on “questionable” traction tires. Together they hauled 20 cars and a caboose with no sweat......that length is beyond the practical limit for my RR anyways. Looks like good enough for me
I used to have one. I was about 3 years old . wish my parents didnt give me the santafe 72 train set then . Because I would have had it still to this day. That was a Christmas of 1990. I seen one at flea market I may get one or a mantua gp20 for nostalgic reason . I remember my mom telling me by time they got it out of hands it was destroyed. If I was to find something like this set again people tend to price gouge which is a shame. Good repair there harrison.! Hope all is well across the border
Hi SMT - I rebuild power torques - I would never recommend removing those brass plates on motor housing. You got lucky those snapped back into place. Many won’t do that. I made a replica of the Tyco tool used for holding brush and Springs to put back into engine. Nice work and smooth runner. On my rebuilds - I install copper brushes and new Springs and magnets -
I always like watching SMT restore stuff. Even though I buy a lot of used locomotives, most of them are Athearn Blue Box and only need some lubrication and cleaning to get them going.
They Warbonnet is also the most popular, outselling all other paint schemes appearing on FT through F9 locomotives from any model manufacturer. (Old school.) The AT&SF was so well known that even people in other parts of the world had equipment painted in the Warbonnet scheme. 💙 T.E.N.
SMT - Dirty Dan did express concern earlier about breaking the gear's axle off of the motor block, while removing the gears. I wonder if the gears & motor block could be scrubbed with isopropyl alcohol & a toothbrush before removing the gears - to remove the grease. I also thought an Xacto knife blade would work good to slide underneath the gears?
That might be an interesting strategy to loosen up the gears. An xacto blade may work well too since it could provide force closer to the centre of the gear.
im installing my own motor on the tyco can you post a video of how to remove a shell on the tender my gramp rote a letter me the day i was born and my grandma told me it was in the tender of it
Add another tally in the successful column, Harrison. Another runner for the collection. Maybe you can add BNSF to that locomotive in the transition of Burlington Northern and Santa Fe. Check out the latest Sparky107107 video revealing his BNSF locomotives acquisition to see what I mean. BNSF added under the cab windows. Thanks for sharing. 👍 👍 👍
Great crash course on reviving these old Tyco locomotives! I was wondering though, is it possible to convert these locomotives to an all wheel drive system? Just curious and thanks for sharing!
In answer to your question, YES. I have one of those in Santa Fe freight colors. Fairly well detailed. I despise the drive unit on these so I kitbashed it with the chassis of an Athearn GP35. It's a fairly easy conversion. Had to remove the dimples under the shell where hand rail stands attach. Little bit of metal removal from the frame and it goes together very well. Fortunately the GP35 chassis is exactly the right length. I also did the same with the Tyco Alco Century but I used an Athearn SD9 chassis. It's 6 axle instead of 4 but so what! If someone questions it just give them a back story. (When the Soo Line ordered new GP30s in the early 60s they insisted on Alco trucks under them.) Both locos run great and will MU easily with other Athearns. Only important thing is you'll need to use the later narrow Athearn motors. The old wide motors won't fit.
Another Tyco Power Torque saved from the locomotive graveyard! I have one just like it, great runner, but it has a weird waddle to it. Any thoughts on what that might be? Thanks for posting this video 👍
Trial and error. It doesn't always go well but you eventually learn. One thing I would always suggest thought is if you're having trouble taking something apart or putting it back together is to examine it closely and not to use brute force.
any advice on traction tires, I have an older Tyco and my local store says to trash it and I'm not going to. He also said that they're not available. but I have saw them online. I'm just being cautious. Thanks.
Fleischmann makes a range of traction tyres in different diameters and widths. There is one that is a good fit on TYCO wheels, but I've forgotten the stock number.. Failing that, there's a product with the unlikely name of "Bullfrog Snot" from which you can make your own traction tyres on the wheels.
I like your Repair videos On Model HO train Engine. I love trains. I have Subscribe to Your channel I put no Notifications When you put out new vios Thank you SMT.I would like a shut out one Day. I have Model ho Engine too one day I Would like To build my own Layout I Have Correct stuff For My layout.
These are not very sensitive pieces equipment, they were designed more-less for beginners (mostly youngsters) and do not have many small details that can be broken off or a drivetrain that requires NASA grade precision for servicing.
Super. When I bought my two Mantua/Tyco EMD GP-20 locomotives, so long ago, painted in the Chicago, Burlington, & Quincy/Burlington Route Chinese Red paint scheme, which I love, I was not only excited, but l had a plan. One had the MU-2 motor drive, and one had the Powertorque drive. I switched the Powertorque drive to my Tyco Baldwin RF-16 Sharknose and added extra geared wheels and three axle sideframes and my own railroads paint scheme, because I wanted a Baldwin BP-20 Passenger Sharknose locomotive, and I put the four axle Tyco ALCO truck sideframes on the formally Powertorqued GP-20, because I wanted a ALCO trucked EMD GP-20 DUMMY with track powered lighting. All three got full lighting packages and had their traction tire slots filled in. I also installed extra weight and window glass, changed the couplers, added store bought details, and both the powered and now dummy GP-20s acquired dynamic brake blisters from two Lionel GP-9s, as only the New York Central had GP-20 locomotives without dynamic brakes. Forty years later, all three locomotives have survived and are in continous operation, with the only restriction being that I no longer let the Shark operate outside, mostly to keep leaves and gravel out of the exposed gears. All three have a beautiful patina after all the years of operation, as does much of my older rolling stock, and look very realistic. I may also have the last Tyco Powertorque driven unit not only still in service after 40 years, but actually in daily operation, that exists on this planet. 🙂 The dual motored, twelve wheel drive Shark has pulled 35 freight cars without issue, on my mainline grades, but nowadays it pulls my 6 car passenger commuter train most of the time, sometimes pairing up with a Fairbanks Morse CPA24-5 C-Liner dummy if they are running late. The GP-20 operates as smooth as silk and will pull ten cars with the GP-20 dummy, or sixteen without it, which isn't bad for a four wheel drive locomotive with no traction tires. If the Geep needs help, I have plenty of power to add to the train. Good job fixing the locomotive. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado, and thanks for the forty year old memories.💙 T.E.N.
It's never a complete restoration without the oversized soldering gun coming out! Keep up the good work SMT!
I still can't figure out why anyone would need one that big... Like it's usually 2 wires that need to be soldered.
@@aaronsadowski1691 its a vintage soldering iron. My grandfather had 2of those . i believe they were by craftsman or something had lights on them it is big but maybe what he like to use. I bought a cheap one and it works good but they so cheaply made the soldering point got hot enough it isntstraight in the holder anymore.
@@aaronsadowski1691 Because it's fantastic, you don't have to wait until the next decade for it to heat up.
@@SMTMainline Ahhh very good point.
@@mercuryoak2 I see, almost as legendary as Nerf Cat!
I have one of those in Santa Fe freight colors. Fairly well detailed. I despise the drive unit on these so I kitbashed it with the chassis of an Athearn GP35. It's a fairly easy conversion. Had to remove the dimples under the shell where hand rail stands attach. Little bit of metal removal from the frame and it goes together very well. Fortunately the GP35 chassis is exactly the right length.
I also did the same with the Tyco Alco Century but I used an Athearn SD9 chassis. It's 6 axle instead of 4 but so what! If someone questions it just give them a back story. (When the Soo Line ordered new GP30s in the early 60s they insisted on Alco trucks under them.)
Both locos run great and will MU easily with other Athearns.
Only important thing is you'll need to use the later narrow Athearn motors. The old wide motors won't fit.
I’ve done the same, with an Athearn dummy frame. Lot of filing, but worth it.
Love that Tyco ATSF GP20! Glad to see it run like a champ!!!
It’s a beautiful loco
Awesome resto
Another resurrected from the graveyard locomotive Harrison.
Great job indeed 👍👍👍😎😎😎 Cary
Very cool!! Always liked those engines
Beautiful SMT!
I would love for all the naysayers on forums who say “there’s no parts available” or “not worth fixing” in regards to the older, “lower-end stuff” to watch a few of your videos so you can prove this to them......
They might not be worth fixing to some people but I don't really care, I enjoy fixing them and isn't the point of the hobby to enjoy what you're doing?
SMT Mainline
Exactly
I’ve also read complaints about their pulling power. So I went and tested mine. Tested 2 Tyco/Mantua GP20s with MU-2 motor. One pulled 14, the other 12. Both on “questionable” traction tires. Together they hauled 20 cars and a caboose with no sweat......that length is beyond the practical limit for my RR anyways.
Looks like good enough for me
Wow, I’ve been looking for a 4-axle locomotive in that red warbonnet color for ever, good to know they are made.
Love your train videos
Wow that's awesome and makes more sense on how to fix my tyco engines thanks man your the best!
You will hit 10k in no time. You're almost 1/4 of the way from 9k o 10k!
Nice engine and video as always
I used to have one. I was about 3 years old . wish my parents didnt give me the santafe 72 train set then . Because I would have had it still to this day. That was a Christmas of 1990. I seen one at flea market I may get one or a mantua gp20 for nostalgic reason . I remember my mom telling me by time they got it out of hands it was destroyed. If I was to find something like this set again people tend to price gouge which is a shame. Good repair there harrison.! Hope all is well across the border
Nice job keep up the great work
I have two of these GP 20 since the 1980's I need the railings on them they never were included!
Cool video
It always amazes me. The more subscribers someone has the weirder the comments. Just an observation. Great video as always.
I think most of them are pretty nice but like any group there are bound to be a few strange ones.
Hi SMT - I rebuild power torques - I would never recommend removing those brass plates on motor housing. You got lucky those snapped back into place. Many won’t do that. I made a replica of the Tyco tool used for holding brush and Springs to put back into engine. Nice work and smooth runner. On my rebuilds - I install copper brushes and new Springs and magnets -
I always like watching SMT restore stuff. Even though I buy a lot of used locomotives, most of them are Athearn Blue Box and only need some lubrication and cleaning to get them going.
Athearn blue boxes are great, especially when you put a little bit of work into them.
Cool vid, I like Santa Fe
Is it just me or is the warbonnet paint scheme one of the best and one of the most iconic? Edit: I really like it, it looks great on that loco!
They Warbonnet is also the most popular, outselling all other paint schemes appearing on FT through F9 locomotives from any model manufacturer. (Old school.) The AT&SF was so well known that even people in other parts of the world had equipment painted in the Warbonnet scheme. 💙 T.E.N.
I believe this is an Alco RS32 locomotive, mixed with something else.
It's supposed to be a GP-20 I think. That's what most people think anyway.
Not Yourstoknow Yeah, It does look like that, thought it was RS32
I like the paint scheme
nice repair, saw you doing some Jedi Loco identification on another channel, quite impressive LOL!!
Thank You
Your tyco Chattanooga diesel called. Sounded very similar...
Nice A to Z restore like I’ve said before you show it all.
I appreciate your comment.
SMT - Dirty Dan did express concern earlier about breaking the gear's axle off of the motor block, while removing the gears. I wonder if the gears & motor block could be scrubbed with isopropyl alcohol & a toothbrush before removing the gears - to remove the grease. I also thought an Xacto knife blade would work good to slide underneath the gears?
That might be an interesting strategy to loosen up the gears. An xacto blade may work well too since it could provide force closer to the centre of the gear.
Thank you just taught me how to fix a train
My brain kinda hurts when I see a warbonnet design with no yellow lines
That's some interesting background music ya got there,..other than that, its another great locomotive restoration. 👌😁
Awesome! Which kind of music do you like.
I have one of those in Ho scale but an NS one (not a tyco btw, some different company) but awesome restoration!
TYCO actually did the GP20 in Norfolk Southern livery - I have two of them.
im installing my own motor on the tyco can you post a video of how to remove a shell on the tender my gramp rote a letter me the day i was born and my grandma told me it was in the tender of it
I got here 6 seconds after this was posted
i need a carbon fiber pencil and like always
nice video smt
SMT is the Tyco king. No competition.
Sorry, but you are mistaken - - That would be DirtyDan, aka Danielhauck67.
Can you restore the rivarossi gg1 from the same lot next?
I have that same unit!
Warbonnet paint scheme, if you wanna find out what the paint scheme is, look up bluebonnet as well
I have the same exact engine
I had the BN version....same road number
Add another tally in the successful column, Harrison. Another runner for the collection. Maybe you can add BNSF to that locomotive in the transition of Burlington Northern and Santa Fe. Check out the latest Sparky107107 video revealing his BNSF locomotives acquisition to see what I mean. BNSF added under the cab windows.
Thanks for sharing. 👍 👍 👍
Cool
Great crash course on reviving these old Tyco locomotives! I was wondering though, is it possible to convert these locomotives to an all wheel drive system? Just curious and thanks for sharing!
In answer to your question, YES. I have one of those in Santa Fe freight colors. Fairly well detailed. I despise the drive unit on these so I kitbashed it with the chassis of an Athearn GP35. It's a fairly easy conversion. Had to remove the dimples under the shell where hand rail stands attach. Little bit of metal removal from the frame and it goes together very well. Fortunately the GP35 chassis is exactly the right length.
I also did the same with the Tyco Alco Century but I used an Athearn SD9 chassis. It's 6 axle instead of 4 but so what! If someone questions it just give them a back story. (When the Soo Line ordered new GP30s in the early 60s they insisted on Alco trucks under them.)
Both locos run great and will MU easily with other Athearns.
Only important thing is you'll need to use the later narrow Athearn motors. The old wide motors won't fit.
@@Iconoclasher ok cool, thanks for the info!
5628. These TYCOs are all numbered 5628.
When is your next stream?
Same thing is happening with my sister's which is the same Loco. Guess I got some work to do
Another Tyco Power Torque saved from the locomotive graveyard! I have one just like it, great runner, but it has a weird waddle to it. Any thoughts on what that might be? Thanks for posting this video 👍
I suspect an uneven traction tire would be the cause of a wobble. Sometimes they get get warped and cause strange stuff to happen.
@@SMTMainline Thanks SMT! I’ll checkout the traction tires, it’s the simple things that can cause confusion and delay. 😉
I have the same engine with the same problem. I have been looking for someone to fix it in FL. Any recommendations?
I’m always scared to do restorations on old locomotives without a parts diagram. How do you do it? 😂
Trial and error. It doesn't always go well but you eventually learn. One thing I would always suggest thought is if you're having trouble taking something apart or putting it back together is to examine it closely and not to use brute force.
The santa fe locomotive is trying to beat the Acela speed
the avelia acela
any advice on traction tires, I have an older Tyco and my local store says to trash it and I'm not going to. He also said that they're not available. but I have saw them online. I'm just being cautious. Thanks.
Fleischmann makes a range of traction tyres in different diameters and widths. There is one that is a good fit on TYCO wheels, but I've forgotten the stock number.. Failing that, there's a product with the unlikely name of "Bullfrog Snot" from which you can make your own traction tyres on the wheels.
@@JBofBrisbane Thank you so much for the advice.
Smt is this the first time you’ve had music in the background while restoring a locomotive?
I add it every one in a while.
Would someone please send him a proper soldering iron for the tiny wire work. That one is designed to burn holes in 50 year old TV chassis!
I like my soldering iron, it heats up instantly. I already have a regular one but I find it painfully slow.
Don’t loose the springs
Next give away u should give away a Boxcar
Serenity now.....(Frank Castanza & SMT)
Hahaha, I remember him saying that once and being shocked to hear it.
@@SMTMainline ....th-cam.com/video/LW_s6EqOxqY/w-d-xo.html
Maybe now you can work on the durango
Where is his carbon fiber brush from... Imma need one of those
Aaron Sadowski ......I’d like to know as well. Perhaps a manufacturer or website.
I didn't see any branding on them, wish I could say.
@@SMTMainline Thanks SMT!
I literally just picked one of thoes at my hobbie shop
Hey smt! What is the music you used in the video?
Most of it's in here th-cam.com/video/T5o_0BoTvWg/w-d-xo.html
SMT Mainline thanks
ooh hi
I like your Repair videos On Model HO train Engine. I love trains. I have Subscribe to Your channel I put no Notifications When you put out new vios Thank you SMT.I would like a shut out one Day. I have Model ho Engine too one day I Would like To build my own Layout I Have Correct stuff For My layout.
What kind of engine is that ? Is it an SD something ? It reminds me of a short SD 40-2. Does anyone know ? tks.
It is an EMD GP20. It was a turbocharged road-switcher from the 50's.
@@natestrains1166 Thanks for the info.
SD-anything would have six-wheel bogies.
What happened to your thumb
A drill accident...
SMT Mainline ouch 😣
SMT Mainline one time my toenail got ripped off by a door at the mall
@@fairportrails107 It didn't and still doesn't hurt too much, it doesn't look great though.
@@fairportrails107 Sounds painful.
Too bad he doesn't show how he cleaned the motor block.
ATSF!!!!
pries gears of with the might of zeus
you should use some flux
I did.
smt restore the blue goose
I could’ve been first but I didn’t click on the video sorry but I love trains
Now hook up some rolling stock and see how it actually "runs".
It could pull a 10 car consist no problem but these locomotives were never known for great pulling capacity.
Get some ferromex locomotives!!!
Can you give us the non timelaps vidio
you are a little rough on your locomotives
Since TYCO locomotives are so cheaply made, they don't have much detail, so there isn't really anything to break apart from the trucks.
These are not very sensitive pieces equipment, they were designed more-less for beginners (mostly youngsters) and do not have many small details that can be broken off or a drivetrain that requires NASA grade precision for servicing.
First
Hey Jimmy do a giveaway so I get some model trains the school giveaway