M.P., excellent well done video !! Sadly a lot of negative comments from well meaning people who unfortunately didn't watch carefully and or read the directions. Perhaps they shouldn't even be working on their own motorcycle at this level. I have been Certified by HONDA as one of the first ever Pro-Technicians in the country back in the 70z. My career went on to Engine Building winning championships in NHRA, IHRA, as well as others in Automotive, Harley Davidson, and Honda/Kawasaki/Suzuki categories. I purchased this with confidence for tuning both my GSX-R 1100 Street bike as well as my Nitrous MANCUP PRO E.T. GS SUZUKI. For those WILLING to listen, you should NEVER try to sync carbs UNLESS all of the other engine tune issues have been addressed! If you question the engine sealing ability ie, low compression/poor leak-down, you're waising your time with the carbs. Valve lash/adjustment EQUALLY important PRIOR to carb sync. Older bikes pay particular attention to cam chain adjustments as well as point ignition dwell/gap, and timing. Idle Air mixture and individual throttle cables as well as idle stops. Clean air filter/filters EQUALLY important too. Thanks for listening, all the very best to all. I wanted to add that I am so NOT trying to be Mr. Know it all, internet bully or etcetera, just trying to shed some light. Engine VACUUM will FOREVER be a excellent tool for tuning the internal combustion engine, its Physics. No matter how elaborate computers/engine management systems become, no matter how many valves, variable valve timing, etc., etc., vacuum will always be a CRITICAL factor in a internal combustion engine. RIDE SAFE AND RIDE FREE !!!
Do all you guys complaining about this product even read the damn manual? Some of the complaints here are just stupid! I just tuned my gixxer with this tool without a hitch and found cylinder 3 vacuum was less than half the others. Fixed them all up with this tool and my bikes purr is a lot smoother now and response has improved. Great product! I will be doing all my mates bikes with this tool.
Update: I just used the synchronizer on both my Hondas cb350f and cb400f and man am I glad I bought these they just made my life a whole lot better... This tool rocks! 2 thumbs up!
In addition to the message below, The vacuum range is also dependent on the fluid level in the tool, a low fluid level will reduce the vacuum limit, so that you may have yet another indication. This is the reason for the calibration screws, to accomodate for different vacuum levels, and also for small differences in the fill levels between each channel. This is also the reason that the scale is not marked with any units, as a mercury manometer would be.
another thing is the tool had all sync screws counter clockwise out of the box i didnt know it untill i used it . so it sat in the box for a year before i even used it. never the less it did help out greatly for what i was doing.
I learn something new. Awesome video! I took my carbs apart on my ninja 500, cleaned the jets and then put it all back together. Bike wasn't warmed up or anything like that. Turned the bike and the bike ran for like 15 seconds then shut off. Since then it wouldn't fire back up all. It was my first time dealing with carbs obviously. Didn't think much of it being out of sync and getting it warmed up good first. Didn't even have this tool im just turning and turning. I need another motor also lol.
Hi trido1986, The master carburetor is generally the one that has the cables and the idle adjuster directly attached to it, but there are other configurations. Refer to your factory service manual for more detailed information. An unstable idle is sometimes caused by fuel mixture problems, or possibly sticky throttle shafts. Extremely imbalanced carburetors can also contribute to this problem. Please let us know if you have any further questions, -MP
I just want to clarify something here. This tool does not synchronise the carburetors. It equalises the the intake manifold pressures. The only way to synchronise the carburetors is to remove the carburetor assembly and adjust all four butterflies to open equally and simultaneously with four dial indicators. Then when you reinstall them on the motorcycle,you will find that your intake manifold pressures will not be equalised on your Motion Pro carb syncroniser. So you readjust your throttle screws so the intake manifold pressures are equalised,but now your throttle valves are no longer synchronised. This is because each cylinder operates at different efficiencies to each other. This is just the nature of muti-cylindet engines and cannot be avoided. So,essentially,the nomenclature of the description of this instrument is incorrect. It is an intake manifold pressure calibrator,not a throttle synchroniser. The only way this instrument could come close to synchronising the throttle valves is to make the adjustment at an RPM rate that the bike would normally cruise at.
Model specific information needs to be looked up in the service manual for each motorcycle. With that said, with MOST inline 4 motorcycles, the carburetor or throttle body that has the throttle cables and idle adjuster connected directly to it, is the master. Again, the service manual has the final say.
My rpm is set at x amount and I calibrate the tool just as you show here, then I twist the throttle on the bike a little and then let go of the throttle returning the rpm back to x amount. The calibration never lands in the same spot it appears to need re-calibrated, it's always out of calibration after the rpm changes (adjusting the synchronization on a bike will change the rpm just like it does in this video) I see that people including you... are setting the calibration and then removing the supplied mani, hooking up the lines to each intake port without ever checking to see if it lands in the same spot (calibrated) they just disconnect and hook up to the ports assuming it will stay true. If at x rpm the gauge is calibrated and then the throttle is changed of course without sucking the fluid out of the metering tubes then the gauge should still be calibrated when the throttle is returned back to the original rpm correct? mine does not. I wonder how many other syncpro gauges do not stay calibrated also and they just aren't realizing it because they do not vary the throttle after calibrating??? Thanks
Hello, I just got my MotionPro Sync Pro. I had to add some fluid to get it to 1/4 inch on each reservoir. Question, Manual, it states, that you're put a restrictor at the end of each hose. Then it says put a restrictor on the 6 port barb adapter then insert that into the short hose. If my math is correct, that means 4 restrictors for the long rubber tubes and one for the short tube. My bag is still sealed but I only see 4 restrictors. Is that correct? If so, how do you follow step 2?
Call me anal, but I see some problems with your procedure. 1. Adjust the valves first, unless you are certain they within specs. A difference in the gap will effect the vacuum. 2. Regardless what type of fluid is in the gauges, be certain no voids or bubbles are in the fluid. This will change the weight of the column of fluid and thus, the accuracy. 3a. Sync the two center carbs first then either cylinder 1 or 4 next. Then sync the last carb. Any changes to any carb will effect the rest, so you may have to repeat the process. Always start in the center and work outward. 3b. Always blip the throttle and let it snap back after each adjustment, otherwise, the first time someone snaps the throttle later, it might jack up your sync. They will often settle after any adjustment. 4a. If you clean clogged jets before synchronizing, or modify factory jetting, it is imperative you remove the aluminum plugs that cover the idle mixture screws. I never found a bike that didn't need tweaking. 4b. Use the sync gauges while adjusting the idle mixture to find peak vacuum for each cylinder. Repeat steps 3a and 3b, meaning re-sync after peaking the idle mixtures. IMPORTANT NOTE. A perfect idle mixture is dependent upon three things, barometric pressure, ambient temperature and engine temperature. Keep the engine as close to full operating temperature as possible. Use a fan in front of the engine if needed. A hot engine needs a leaner mix, and a colder engine needs a richer mix. Cheers, John
I know this is 7 years behind, but ALL THESE STEPS you published are so right on! The demo shown in the video is ... not as good as it should be. Even if the valves were just adjusted correctly, he never once (that I saw) blipped the throttle to reset the throttle adjustment he just did! That's NOT the way it should be done. Great input, you should have done the video... :=)
I used this tool a couple of days ago on my Honda cbr 600 ,when i calibrated the tool it seem fine like the video thick blue lines all even. when i hooked up all four tube in order seem like the guage have huge air gaps in it. did the best i could do bike runs fine. but #4 carb was reading very high almost off the scale.
Nemo Nobody Jetting was the initial problem i jetted it out after i took the bike to someone that busted a hole in the #1 carb. so i replaced it re synced it and #1 are even but slightly lower that #2 . the bike runs fine good throttle response and RPMs just could not get all four columns to match perfectly even.
Hola tengo un SyncPro 08-0411, intento sincronizar los cilindros se mi nueva Bmw R1200RT del año 2007 y no puedo porque se salen de rango al acelerar. Me podria indicar que estoy haciendo mal ? Gracias
i can't find the other video. and i apparently didn't put it away right a year ago (who would when you get it sync'd?) so now the fluid is in all 4 tubes up to a third to begin with. and opening the screws max out with the fluid still in the tubes. i leveled them anyways but well trying to sync the carbs now, they go way up and 1 in particular shoots up so fast i panic and shut it off, i tried opening the throttle, they all have the restrictors in place, and it looks like there's gonna be enough fluid, but how do i get the fluid back in the bottom? also i have a cb400f since there isn't a master carb that i know of, should i cal on #2 anyways? thanks
mine has a similar problem. The screws were all the way out and I was calibrating it. the 1st column went ok but when I turned the 2nd screw a tiny the fluid went straight to the top. I disconnected straight away but now it wont drop back down again.
Cant back this product. I read and watch all the videos. Did the whole procedure without issue. Went back to number 1 cyl with all plugged into the manifold and it was all over the place. No bubbles. Never vacuumed the fluid past 1/3. Soooo I recalibrated it on number 1 cyl again. Hooked to all 4 and it was all over the garage again. So now i leveled those. 3rd rp8nd, same thing. Now it's all been adjusted to hell, not number 1 cyl of course. Ordered old school gauges after 2 hours of this. Trying to send your product back through Amazon right now.
The Syncpro is not an absolute instrument like a mercury manometer, but rather a relative tool that is dependent upon the position of the calibration screws. One setting could mean that half the scale is 10cmHg, while a different setting could mean 25cmHg.
what if all four carbs are tuneable and someone has messed with all of them. ive done exactly what you said to do and #1 & #4 are the same and #2 & #3 are the same. i cant get all of them to match. it starts killing the bike when i turn the screws either way
There is a commotion in the third row, and the conductor stops the rehearsal. "What now?" Viola player: "The guy behind me turned one of my tuning pegs." "Turn it back!" Viola player: "He won't tell me which one."
I bought one new sync pro carb tuner for my suzuki v-strom 650 V twin cylinder,but i have problem with the fluid level,when i start the engine the level going very high almost the top so what happen?i have followed carefully all the instructions but nothing,can somebody help me please?
First of all you set master carb to the recommended vacuum then adjust the others to match and it changes when you give it gas I use the throttle lock to run the rpms up a little and check it.thats only tuning for idle.
Well I just used this method on my 93 zx7. The master carb is the one the main throttle cables go to usually. As far as another question, can it be done with the airbox off, yes, I have to with mine also. It helped my idle quality a bunch and it runs better but still has a weird issue when you foot take off its almost like it floods out...
If all else fails, check this device as it works for me....you can buy, 4 or 2 cylinder devices....on eBay...etc... MORGAN CARBTUNE PRO, MOTORCYCLE VACUUM GAUGE. 4 CYLINDER. EASY TO USE, SETUP AND HIGHLY ACCURATE. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR THE HOME OR WORKSHOP. The new Carbtune Pro Uses the same principle as the Carbtune II, it replaces but upgraded and redesigned to ensure better and more consistent assembly and performance. It contains NO mercury or any liquids. Carbtune Pro synchronizes the carbs on Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki, BMW, Ducati, Guzzi, Laverda, Triumph and Honda motorcycles and virtually any other multi-carbureted or fuel injected engine
Ok .. 1and 4 . the right side and 2 and 3 left side . from the syncro connector (in order fire piston's).. and the manifold . in order 1,2,3,4, .. right ??? .. and the idle , is not to 1,500/1700 rpm ?.. cheers
This seems like a good tool and all but I wonder how long it will last having to re-calibrate it so often. I do not own a calibration tool yet but I was thinking about getting a Morgane CarbTune. Does anyone know how these two compare? Thanks.
if 40psi vacuum sucks the fluids from the syncing tool, is it safe to assume that half way through the bar is 20 psi? i'm trying to use the tool as sort of a guage or at least a guide of sorts.
1.how can you say which one is master carburator? 2.my bike idle not stable and every time i twist the throtle ,it took 1,2 seconds for the bike to response?is the carburator need to be adjusted? thanks
have a buddy who sucked his mano dry as soon as he turned the bike on. He must have set the restriction screws the wrong way before starting the bike. Should he drain the engine oil and try to get the mano fluid out before operating the bike?
Col Ford Thanks, Col Ford. I've heard the same thing from others. No biggy for a bike to suck in the fluid but obviously make sure the manometer is closed before you calibrate. 7:34
Service manual doesn't say because the factory uses vacuum gauges to adjust the carbs. I had to figure it all out on my own which I think makes the tool less desirable to use IMO.
Hello tgaalswyk420, I am sorry but we do not have the information to answer your question. You will need to refer to the service manual for your model motorcycle for specific synchronization procedures
Hello, the lines are reference lines only. They are used to facilitate in calibrating the SyncPRO™ and synchronizing the carburetors/throttle bod- ies. They do not represent specific vacuum values (i.e. cm Hg, in, Hg, psi, etc). You can download the full instruction sheet on our website for this product.
I always rev it up, and watch the vacuum then and see if all 4 levels come back where they should. Really lets you know how the carbs are doing at all RPM's What do you think??? My sync tool has no liquids 4 tubes with ss shafts floating inside works great! 100.00 bucks
There is just too much monkey motion trying to make the fluid act like mercury, which is many times denser. Oil fill level, calibration screws, manifold, master carb.... I worked at a Honda dealer in the 70's doing 1st gen Honda 750's on sticks, but electronic devices are the way to go now. They even give you engine rpm by counting vacuum pulses. You really shouldn't have mercury around. A spilled drop can hide in a crevice and give off brain-damaging vapors for years. I do miss sticks, though; the smoothing provided by the mass of the mercury works better than damping applied entirely with a valve. Multi-cable sync tip: Back out all the idle stops and bring up engine speed to normal idle with the adjuster on the twist grip cable, then sync cables so that it is idling on the cables. Then loosen the TG cable and sync the idle stops. All cable adjustments should go from loose to tight to properly account for friction.
I just want to say, this was a damn good comment. It's the little things like bringing the carbs to zero and setting idle before syncing is THE way to go on ANYTHING with multiple carbs. Similar to what you have to do on a Corvair. Disconnect the throttle and hold it shut with a spring, then bring the carbs to zero...then you get the car started again, equalize the vacuum and use the main throttle adjustment to set the idle speed. Same thing!
Is it like ours, or is it ours? ;-) If it is ours, that will indicate a low fluid level, and the tool will need to be refilled. Have a look at our Syncpro Refill Ki on our website.
The calibration set up makes this tool a pain in the ass IMO. Where is the master carb on my bike? Who knows refer to the manual. Manual doesn't say now what? How about I order a better carb sync tool one with 4 vacuum gauges!
"Special proprietary fluid" lol... its propylene glycol and dye. Same stuff they use in paintballs, non toxic too. Basically a food grade antifreeze. The good news is, the refill kits are about 5 bucks and come with new o-rings. For 5 bucks you can afford to refill this thing after every sync procedure.
Really dissatisfied by how this thing measures vacuum on V-Twins. Even with the restrictors installed, my engine just wants to suck all the fluid out of the tool. I still have mine, with only a little fluid missing out of one of the lines. They do make fluid sold seperately, so if anyone here would be interested, I'll be selling mine. Barely used, new out the package, lower than full retail price of course.
find the mercury sticks.there are some available on ebay for reasonable price. I agree, this new blue fluid one is a poor design.........dude, can you trim, color or shave off your bad fidel castro beard.....thanks...frank.
i hate this blue dye ink Sync Pro. The blue ink smears on the glass and is hard to see where its exactly at. I have to wait @ 2-5 minutes for it to clear up on the glass tubes. I paid @ $90, not worth it. When I calibrated it, then reved the bike, most of the ink over flowed out, and now its empty and i gotta cough up more money of more ink to it. And it in the closet, useless at this time.
Yup, its a shame that you spent 90 dollars on a tool and have to pay to keep this crappy blue dye in it. I just don't see why people would waste money on this junk. I'm sure it works fine and does the job, but the way it is designed is a total fail and just doesn't make sense to me. There are way better synchronizers to invest in.
Beware of this tool. It's high maintenance and not worth the price. A friend of mine bought one a while back and the blue fluid was completely gone upon purchase. He took it back to the bike shop and they called the company and they told him that the fluid had evaporated. So he spent another 10 dollars on a bottle of blue fluid. If you do buy this crap, make sure to close the screws first or that fluid will get vacuumed into the engine. These people sure do know how to rip you off and make you continuously spend money on their product.
+Aryan8Pride8 I just had this happen last night. The video is pretty good...but he doesn't emphasize putting the restrictor caps in each line. They just flash a picture. Anyway, without the restrictor caps in each line (they include 4) almost all of the blue fluid will get sucked out. I learned the hard way....assuming the video explained everything. After the screw up, I realized...the paper instructions had a step for the restrictors. They call the blue fluid "proprietary fluid". It's just mineral oil with blue dye in it. I wasn't going to pay $10 more and wait a week for them to send me a vial. I used Mobil 1 ATF, which I already had in the shop, red in color...actually gets less air bubbles as well. It mixed with what was left of their blue oil. Now my mixture is on the purple side. Works perfectly. Anyway....I'm not overly impressed with this product. It seems vague at best. That said...I'm kind of stuck with it now for $90+.
+Jon Manteau And....I'm curious. What if you have to adjust your 4 "Idle Jets"(on a 4 cylinder) as well. I've read elsewhere that if your turn any one of them out or back in, by more then a 1/4 turn...you should resynch.
+Jon Manteau Turning fuel mixture screws doesnt have much to do with the amount of air going into the engine. Turning the fuel mixture screws allows more or less fuel, it has nothing to do with air. But it wouldnt hurt to adjust everything while you have the gauges on.
Exactly. I would never ever waste money on this tool. What happens when the blue fluid gets low? Ohhhhh, yeah.... Shell out more money. No thank you. As advanced as we are in technology, I'm surprised to see something as pathetic as this. People are more concerned with the almighty dollar than they are with quality products.
2:28 "Theses screws will....... 1 ......... 2 ........3 Ummmmm" Hahahahaha Funny. I know little about bikes and I knew what he need to say next more than he did.
Its does seem like an awefully cheap tool - plastic it looks like - for over $80. Motion Pro should be careful makeing stuff so cheap or their going to ruin their reputation.
An utterly shitful product. Uses a kerosene mix for the indicator columns. At 0.8 density, it's less dense even than water. I imagine the makers cowering away from using mercury (21st Century 1st World 'everything is icky and scary' sensibilities) but instead of considering other high-density liquid metal alloys such as Galinstan (a portmanteau of gallium, indium, and stannum) or considering anything AT ALL, they went with a low-density kerosene mix and then advised users not to rev engines higher than a few thousand revs, otherwise the liquid will get sucked into the engine. Which is what happened when I used this nonsense product to balance the carbs on a Suzuki GSX750F. When adjusting the centre throttle pivot shaft screw, (because some downward pressure is required for the screwdriver to engage with the screw) suddenly the engine went up to 3000+rpm, and half the fluid was gone from columns 3 and 4. Note how in this video the bike used is a tiny 400cc machine, and this doesn't generate enough vacuum to unduly imperil the fluid. Put it on a 1000cc engine - and anything over 2000rpm will have the fluid at dangerously high levels. And as one bloke pointed out; put it on a Bandit 1200 or a GSX1400 and even at idle the vacuum is too strong, and the measuring fluid gets sucked in.
daaaamn.... daaaaamn.... this tool is garbage. freaking liquid was all over the place. the restrictors suck. i'm sorry but this is very poor quality. I'm going to have to order another carb tuner tool but better quality. maybe even the electronic one. damn. I really cant recommend it. if you are in the market for one.. buy a different one.
Doesn’t work on a Suzuki Bandit 1200. (Too much vacume. Instructions followed precisely.) Absolutely disappointed in this useless product. No more MP products for me.
M.P., excellent well done video !!
Sadly a lot of negative comments from well meaning people who unfortunately didn't watch carefully and or read the directions. Perhaps they shouldn't even be working on their own motorcycle at this level. I have been Certified by HONDA as one of the first ever Pro-Technicians in the country back in the 70z. My career went on to Engine Building winning championships in NHRA, IHRA, as well as others in Automotive, Harley Davidson, and Honda/Kawasaki/Suzuki categories. I purchased this with confidence for tuning both my GSX-R 1100 Street bike as well as my Nitrous MANCUP PRO E.T. GS SUZUKI.
For those WILLING to listen, you should NEVER try to sync carbs UNLESS all of the other engine tune issues have been addressed!
If you question the engine sealing ability ie, low compression/poor leak-down, you're waising your time with the carbs. Valve lash/adjustment EQUALLY important PRIOR to carb sync. Older bikes pay particular attention to cam chain adjustments as well as point ignition dwell/gap, and timing. Idle Air mixture and individual throttle cables as well as idle stops. Clean air filter/filters EQUALLY important too. Thanks for listening, all the very best to all.
I wanted to add that I am so NOT trying to be Mr. Know it all, internet bully or etcetera, just trying to shed some light. Engine VACUUM will FOREVER be a excellent tool for tuning the internal combustion engine, its Physics. No matter how elaborate computers/engine management systems become, no matter how many valves, variable valve timing, etc., etc., vacuum will always be a CRITICAL factor in a internal combustion engine.
RIDE SAFE AND RIDE FREE !!!
Do all you guys complaining about this product even read the damn manual? Some of the complaints here are just stupid!
I just tuned my gixxer with this tool without a hitch and found cylinder 3 vacuum was less than half the others. Fixed them all up with this tool and my bikes purr is a lot smoother now and response has improved.
Great product! I will be doing all my mates bikes with this tool.
Update: I just used the synchronizer on both my Hondas cb350f and cb400f and man am I glad I bought these they just made my life a whole lot better... This tool rocks! 2 thumbs up!
Just funny. So many commenters obviously never read the instructions, Fkd up, then blame the tool. This tool works flawlessly.
Best and the most reliable sync tool out there. Thank you guys for making awesome tools. This moto tech is always a fan!
In addition to the message below,
The vacuum range is also dependent on the fluid level in the tool, a low fluid level will reduce the vacuum limit, so that you may have yet another indication. This is the reason for the calibration screws, to accomodate for different vacuum levels, and also for small differences in the fill levels between each channel. This is also the reason that the scale is not marked with any units, as a mercury manometer would be.
another thing is the tool had all sync screws counter clockwise out of the box i didnt know it untill i used it . so it sat in the box for a year before i even used it. never the less it did help out greatly for what i was doing.
bought the tool , watched the video and it worked perfect , thanks guys great product
I learn something new. Awesome video! I took my carbs apart on my ninja 500, cleaned the jets and then put it all back together. Bike wasn't warmed up or anything like that. Turned the bike and the bike ran for like 15 seconds then shut off. Since then it wouldn't fire back up all. It was my first time dealing with carbs obviously. Didn't think much of it being out of sync and getting it warmed up good first. Didn't even have this tool im just turning and turning. I need another motor also lol.
Hi trido1986,
The master carburetor is generally the one that has the cables and the idle adjuster directly attached to it, but there are other configurations. Refer to your factory service manual for more detailed information.
An unstable idle is sometimes caused by fuel mixture problems, or possibly sticky throttle shafts. Extremely imbalanced carburetors can also contribute to this problem.
Please let us know if you have any further questions, -MP
I just want to clarify something here.
This tool does not synchronise the carburetors.
It equalises the the intake manifold pressures.
The only way to synchronise the carburetors is to remove the carburetor assembly and adjust all four butterflies to open equally and simultaneously with four dial indicators.
Then when you reinstall them on the motorcycle,you will find that your intake manifold pressures will not be equalised on your Motion Pro carb syncroniser.
So you readjust your throttle screws so the intake manifold pressures are equalised,but now your throttle valves are no longer synchronised.
This is because each cylinder operates at different efficiencies to each other.
This is just the nature of muti-cylindet engines and cannot be avoided.
So,essentially,the nomenclature of the description of this instrument is incorrect.
It is an intake manifold pressure calibrator,not a throttle synchroniser.
The only way this instrument could come close to synchronising the throttle valves is to make the adjustment at an RPM rate that the bike would normally cruise at.
Model specific information needs to be looked up in the service manual for each motorcycle.
With that said, with MOST inline 4 motorcycles, the carburetor or throttle body that has the throttle cables and idle adjuster connected directly to it, is the master. Again, the service manual has the final say.
My rpm is set at x amount and I calibrate the tool just as you show here, then I twist the throttle on the bike a little and then let go of the throttle returning the rpm back to x amount. The calibration never lands in the same spot it appears to need re-calibrated, it's always out of calibration after the rpm changes (adjusting the synchronization on a bike will change the rpm just like it does in this video) I see that people including you... are setting the calibration and then removing the supplied mani, hooking up the lines to each intake port without ever checking to see if it lands in the same spot (calibrated) they just disconnect and hook up to the ports assuming it will stay true. If at x rpm the gauge is calibrated and then the throttle is changed of course without sucking the fluid out of the metering tubes then the gauge should still be calibrated when the throttle is returned back to the original rpm correct? mine does not. I wonder how many other syncpro gauges do not stay calibrated also and they just aren't realizing it because they do not vary the throttle after calibrating??? Thanks
Hello, I just got my MotionPro Sync Pro. I had to add some fluid to get it to 1/4 inch on each reservoir. Question, Manual, it states, that you're put a restrictor at the end of each hose. Then it says put a restrictor on the 6 port barb adapter then insert that into the short hose. If my math is correct, that means 4 restrictors for the long rubber tubes and one for the short tube. My bag is still sealed but I only see 4 restrictors. Is that correct? If so, how do you follow step 2?
hola retrictores van puestos en la parte superior o inferior de las mangueras?
Hello the retrictors are placed on the top or bottom of the hoses?
Just bought one of these going to give it a shot with my 1974 honda cb350 four thanks for the help!
Call me anal, but I see some problems with your procedure.
1. Adjust the valves first, unless you are certain they within specs. A difference in the gap will effect the vacuum.
2. Regardless what type of fluid is in the gauges, be certain no voids or bubbles are in the fluid. This will change the weight of the column of fluid and thus, the accuracy.
3a. Sync the two center carbs first then either cylinder 1 or 4 next. Then sync the last carb. Any changes to any carb will effect the rest, so you may have to repeat the process. Always start in the center and work outward.
3b. Always blip the throttle and let it snap back after each adjustment, otherwise, the first time someone snaps the throttle later, it might jack up your sync. They will often settle after any adjustment.
4a. If you clean clogged jets before synchronizing, or modify factory jetting, it is imperative you remove the aluminum plugs that cover the idle mixture screws. I never found a bike that didn't need tweaking.
4b. Use the sync gauges while adjusting the idle mixture to find peak vacuum for each cylinder. Repeat steps 3a and 3b, meaning re-sync after peaking the idle mixtures.
IMPORTANT NOTE. A perfect idle mixture is dependent upon three things, barometric pressure, ambient temperature and engine temperature. Keep the engine as close to full operating temperature as possible. Use a fan in front of the engine if needed. A hot engine needs a leaner mix, and a colder engine needs a richer mix.
Cheers, John
I know this is 7 years behind, but ALL THESE STEPS you published are so right on! The demo shown in the video is ... not as good as it should be. Even if the valves were just adjusted correctly, he never once (that I saw) blipped the throttle to reset the throttle adjustment he just did! That's NOT the way it should be done. Great input, you should have done the video... :=)
you didn't snap the throttle between each adjustment, this makes huge difference.
So glad you're liking the video, estrelladelnorte1308 and Millionz27! We hope it's helpful to you :-)
I used this tool a couple of days ago on my Honda cbr 600 ,when i calibrated the tool it seem fine like the video thick blue lines all even. when i hooked up all four tube in order seem like the guage have huge air gaps in it. did the best i could do bike runs fine. but #4 carb was reading very high almost off the scale.
keving52002 It may need to be re jetted
Nemo Nobody Jetting was the initial problem i jetted it out after i took the bike to someone that busted a hole in the #1 carb. so i replaced it re synced it and #1 are even but slightly lower that #2 . the bike runs fine good throttle response and RPMs just could not get all four columns to match perfectly even.
Hola tengo un SyncPro 08-0411, intento sincronizar los cilindros se mi nueva Bmw R1200RT del año 2007 y no puedo porque se salen de rango al acelerar. Me podria indicar que estoy haciendo mal ? Gracias
i can't find the other video. and i apparently didn't put it away right a year ago (who would when you get it sync'd?) so now the fluid is in all 4 tubes up to a third to begin with. and opening the screws max out with the fluid still in the tubes. i leveled them anyways but well trying to sync the carbs now, they go way up and 1 in particular shoots up so fast i panic and shut it off, i tried opening the throttle, they all have the restrictors in place, and it looks like there's gonna be enough fluid, but how do i get the fluid back in the bottom? also i have a cb400f since there isn't a master carb that i know of, should i cal on #2 anyways? thanks
mine has a similar problem. The screws were all the way out and I was calibrating it. the 1st column went ok but when I turned the 2nd screw a tiny the fluid went straight to the top. I disconnected straight away but now it wont drop back down again.
The most critical part of the demo was where you did not zoom in on the gauge levels. Scratchin' my head on that.
Cant back this product. I read and watch all the videos. Did the whole procedure without issue. Went back to number 1 cyl with all plugged into the manifold and it was all over the place. No bubbles. Never vacuumed the fluid past 1/3. Soooo I recalibrated it on number 1 cyl again. Hooked to all 4 and it was all over the garage again. So now i leveled those. 3rd rp8nd, same thing. Now it's all been adjusted to hell, not number 1 cyl of course. Ordered old school gauges after 2 hours of this. Trying to send your product back through Amazon right now.
The Syncpro is not an absolute instrument like a mercury manometer, but rather a relative tool that is dependent upon the position of the calibration screws. One setting could mean that half the scale is 10cmHg, while a different setting could mean 25cmHg.
Great how-to video. Thanks for taking the time to make it
Awesome step-by-step vid!
Which carburetor is the master carburetor on a vstar 1100? I've checked everywhere and can't find anything about it.
Can the air box top cover be removed? I cant access the three screws to adjust the butterflys in sync without airbox cover off.
what if all four carbs are tuneable and someone has messed with all of them. ive done exactly what you said to do and #1 & #4 are the same and #2 & #3 are the same. i cant get all of them to match. it starts killing the bike when i turn the screws either way
There is a commotion in the third row, and the conductor stops the rehearsal. "What now?" Viola player: "The guy behind me turned one of my tuning pegs." "Turn it back!" Viola player: "He won't tell me which one."
I bought one new sync pro carb tuner for my suzuki v-strom 650 V twin cylinder,but i have problem with the fluid level,when i start the engine the level going very high almost the top so what happen?i have followed carefully all the instructions but nothing,can somebody help me please?
First of all you set master carb to the recommended vacuum then adjust the others to match and it changes when you give it gas I use the throttle lock to run the rpms up a little and check it.thats only tuning for idle.
Well I just used this method on my 93 zx7. The master carb is the one the main throttle cables go to usually. As far as another question, can it be done with the airbox off, yes, I have to with mine also. It helped my idle quality a bunch and it runs better but still has a weird issue when you foot take off its almost like it floods out...
Awesome video, thanks for doing it! Ordering one of these today!
+Paul Stafford Ok, lets here it, how do it work for you?
If all else fails, check this device as it works for me....you can buy, 4 or 2 cylinder devices....on eBay...etc...
MORGAN CARBTUNE PRO, MOTORCYCLE VACUUM GAUGE. 4 CYLINDER. EASY TO USE, SETUP AND HIGHLY ACCURATE. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR THE HOME OR WORKSHOP.
The new Carbtune Pro Uses the same principle as the Carbtune II, it replaces but upgraded and redesigned to ensure better and more consistent assembly and performance.
It contains NO mercury or any liquids.
Carbtune Pro synchronizes the carbs on Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki, BMW, Ducati, Guzzi, Laverda, Triumph and Honda motorcycles and virtually any other multi-carbureted or fuel injected engine
Ok .. 1and 4 . the right side and 2 and 3 left side . from the syncro connector (in order fire piston's).. and the manifold . in order 1,2,3,4, .. right ??? .. and the idle , is not to 1,500/1700 rpm ?.. cheers
Very nice! How much was the tool?
Can this tool be used on modern fuel injected bikes?
No need. For carburetors only
This seems like a good tool and all but I wonder how long it will last having to re-calibrate it so often. I do not own a calibration tool yet but I was thinking about getting a Morgane CarbTune. Does anyone know how these two compare? Thanks.
if 40psi vacuum sucks the fluids from the syncing tool, is it safe to assume that half way through the bar is 20 psi? i'm trying to use the tool as sort of a guage or at least a guide of sorts.
1.how can you say which one is master carburator?
2.my bike idle not stable and every time i twist the throtle ,it took 1,2 seconds for the bike to response?is the carburator need to be adjusted?
thanks
have a buddy who sucked his mano dry as soon as he turned the bike on. He must have set the restriction screws the wrong way before starting the bike. Should he drain the engine oil and try to get the mano fluid out before operating the bike?
The fluid was sucked into the intake, which means it most likely evaporated during the combustion and exited out the exhaust.
Col Ford Thanks, Col Ford. I've heard the same thing from others. No biggy for a bike to suck in the fluid but obviously make sure the manometer is closed before you calibrate. 7:34
why do the instructions say to stick the restrictor on the other end of the vacuum hoses that don't go into the clear hoses?
if my Intruder does not have a tachometer, how I will know when is calibrated at 1000 rpms?
I have a 2003 zx636 and all 4 of my throttle bodies are adjustable. So How do I know which one to hook it up to to calibrate it???
9:50 Won't you have to test if connecting one of the tubes to one cylinder will suck the liquid out, as the vacuum is now 4 times greater?
Will this work for a Yamaha fz1?
Service manual doesn't say because the factory uses vacuum gauges to adjust the carbs. I had to figure it all out on my own which I think makes the tool less desirable to use IMO.
Hello tgaalswyk420,
I am sorry but we do not have the information to answer your question. You will need to refer to the service manual for your model motorcycle for specific synchronization procedures
Cada línea equivale a cuantos cm Hg el manual no especifica cuanto exactamente son las medidas.
Hello, the lines are reference lines only. They are used to facilitate in calibrating the SyncPRO™ and synchronizing the carburetors/throttle bod-
ies. They do not represent specific vacuum values (i.e. cm Hg, in, Hg, psi, etc). You can download the full instruction sheet on our website for this product.
my carb tuner is like yours , and it has some bubbles once that i start to uset . do you know why??
Thank you for the video.
Great video. I'll be buying one.
Very good but I need the Spanish version please. I'm sure that so much people need this information. Tanks.!!!
I always rev it up, and watch the vacuum then and see if all 4 levels come back where they should. Really lets you know how the carbs are doing at all RPM's What do you think??? My sync tool has no liquids 4 tubes with ss shafts floating inside works great! 100.00 bucks
Great video
There is just too much monkey motion trying to make the fluid act like mercury, which is many times denser. Oil fill level, calibration screws, manifold, master carb.... I worked at a Honda dealer in the 70's doing 1st gen Honda 750's on sticks, but electronic devices are the way to go now. They even give you engine rpm by counting vacuum pulses. You really shouldn't have mercury around. A spilled drop can hide in a crevice and give off brain-damaging vapors for years.
I do miss sticks, though; the smoothing provided by the mass of the mercury works better than damping applied entirely with a valve. Multi-cable sync tip: Back out all the idle stops and bring up engine speed to normal idle with the adjuster on the twist grip cable, then sync cables so that it is idling on the cables. Then loosen the TG cable and sync the idle stops. All cable adjustments should go from loose to tight to properly account for friction.
I just want to say, this was a damn good comment. It's the little things like bringing the carbs to zero and setting idle before syncing is THE way to go on ANYTHING with multiple carbs. Similar to what you have to do on a Corvair. Disconnect the throttle and hold it shut with a spring, then bring the carbs to zero...then you get the car started again, equalize the vacuum and use the main throttle adjustment to set the idle speed. Same thing!
Anyone know what the master cylinder is for 05 R6 if i want to buy this tool and calibrate it?
really nice video thanks!
Is it like ours, or is it ours? ;-) If it is ours, that will indicate a low fluid level, and the tool will need to be refilled. Have a look at our Syncpro Refill Ki on our website.
The calibration set up makes this tool a pain in the ass IMO. Where is the master carb on my bike? Who knows refer to the manual. Manual doesn't say now what? How about I order a better carb sync tool one with 4 vacuum gauges!
You never explained adjusting right two carbs and left side and then all of them.
Wow....so you'll charge me an hour labor for Syncpro calibration and 1 minute of actual carb adjustment. I'll buy the Carbtune Pro 4, thank you.
I think an hour labor is reasonable since you have to remove the fairing, just to remove the gas tank to hook it up.
"Special proprietary fluid" lol... its propylene glycol and dye. Same stuff they use in paintballs, non toxic too.
Basically a food grade antifreeze. The good news is, the refill kits are about 5 bucks and come with new o-rings. For 5 bucks you can afford to refill this thing after every sync procedure.
Don't forget to do that "refill" vid.. ;)
Lots of "super super important" things.
just bought the tool off line
Really dissatisfied by how this thing measures vacuum on V-Twins. Even with the restrictors installed, my engine just wants to suck all the fluid out of the tool.
I still have mine, with only a little fluid missing out of one of the lines. They do make fluid sold seperately, so if anyone here would be interested, I'll be selling mine.
Barely used, new out the package, lower than full retail price of course.
+InvictvsNox HOw much you want for it?
I'd take 60 bucks plus shipping. I'm keeping the brass adapters for it, but they're easy to find elsewhere around the web.
+InvictvsNox ok, let me talk to the wife
Roofer458 Excellent! Shoot me an email at invictvsnox@aol.com if you're still interested.
Think he likes the fluid
sound of the bike AFTER calibration is horrible.
find the mercury sticks.there are some available on ebay for reasonable price. I agree, this new blue fluid one is a poor design.........dude, can you trim, color or shave off your bad fidel castro beard.....thanks...frank.
i hate this blue dye ink Sync Pro. The blue ink smears on the glass and is hard to see where its exactly at. I have to wait @ 2-5 minutes for it to clear up on the glass tubes. I paid @ $90, not worth it. When I calibrated it, then reved the bike, most of the ink over flowed out, and now its empty and i gotta cough up more money of more ink to it. And it in the closet, useless at this time.
Yup, its a shame that you spent 90 dollars on a tool and have to pay to keep this crappy blue dye in it. I just don't see why people would waste money on this junk. I'm sure it works fine and does the job, but the way it is designed is a total fail and just doesn't make sense to me. There are way better synchronizers to invest in.
Beware of this tool. It's high maintenance and not worth the price. A friend of mine bought one a while back and the blue fluid was completely gone upon purchase. He took it back to the bike shop and they called the company and they told him that the fluid had evaporated. So he spent another 10 dollars on a bottle of blue fluid.
If you do buy this crap, make sure to close the screws first or that fluid will get vacuumed into the engine. These people sure do know how to rip you off and make you continuously spend money on their product.
+Aryan8Pride8
I just had this happen last night. The video is pretty good...but he doesn't emphasize putting the restrictor caps in each line. They just flash a picture. Anyway, without the restrictor caps in each line (they include 4) almost all of the blue fluid will get sucked out. I learned the hard way....assuming the video explained everything. After the screw up, I realized...the paper instructions had a step for the restrictors. They call the blue fluid "proprietary fluid". It's just mineral oil with blue dye in it. I wasn't going to pay $10 more and wait a week for them to send me a vial. I used Mobil 1 ATF, which I already had in the shop, red in color...actually gets less air bubbles as well. It mixed with what was left of their blue oil. Now my mixture is on the purple side. Works perfectly. Anyway....I'm not overly impressed with this product. It seems vague at best. That said...I'm kind of stuck with it now for $90+.
+Jon Manteau
And....I'm curious. What if you have to adjust your 4 "Idle Jets"(on a 4 cylinder) as well. I've read elsewhere that if your turn any one of them out or back in, by more then a 1/4 turn...you should resynch.
+Jon Manteau Turning fuel mixture screws doesnt have much to do with the amount of air going into the engine. Turning the fuel mixture screws allows more or less fuel, it has nothing to do with air. But it wouldnt hurt to adjust everything while you have the gauges on.
I heard these suck and that the carbtune is much better.
seems unecessarily complicated compared to similar products.
Exactly. I would never ever waste money on this tool. What happens when the blue fluid gets low? Ohhhhh, yeah.... Shell out more money. No thank you. As advanced as we are in technology, I'm surprised to see something as pathetic as this. People are more concerned with the almighty dollar than they are with quality products.
Haha. I thought he was wearing a lowered face mask at the beginning.
2:28 "Theses screws will....... 1 ......... 2 ........3 Ummmmm" Hahahahaha Funny. I know little about bikes and I knew what he need to say next more than he did.
Thanks man.....mercury no longer available mmmm
Its does seem like an awefully cheap tool - plastic it looks like - for over $80. Motion Pro should be careful makeing stuff so cheap or their going to ruin their reputation.
An utterly shitful product. Uses a kerosene mix for the indicator columns. At 0.8 density, it's less dense even than water. I imagine the makers cowering away from using mercury (21st Century 1st World 'everything is icky and scary' sensibilities) but instead of considering other high-density liquid metal alloys such as Galinstan (a portmanteau of gallium, indium, and stannum) or considering anything AT ALL, they went with a low-density kerosene mix and then advised users not to rev engines higher than a few thousand revs, otherwise the liquid will get sucked into the engine. Which is what happened when I used this nonsense product to balance the carbs on a Suzuki GSX750F. When adjusting the centre throttle pivot shaft screw, (because some downward pressure is required for the screwdriver to engage with the screw) suddenly the engine went up to 3000+rpm, and half the fluid was gone from columns 3 and 4. Note how in this video the bike used is a tiny 400cc machine, and this doesn't generate enough vacuum to unduly imperil the fluid. Put it on a 1000cc engine - and anything over 2000rpm will have the fluid at dangerously high levels. And as one bloke pointed out; put it on a Bandit 1200 or a GSX1400 and even at idle the vacuum is too strong, and the measuring fluid gets sucked in.
daaaamn.... daaaaamn.... this tool is garbage. freaking liquid was all over the place. the restrictors suck. i'm sorry but this is very poor quality. I'm going to have to order another carb tuner tool but better quality. maybe even the electronic one. damn.
I really cant recommend it. if you are in the market for one.. buy a different one.
Doesn’t work on a Suzuki Bandit 1200. (Too much vacume. Instructions followed precisely.)
Absolutely disappointed in this useless product.
No more MP products for me.