Thanks Jeff and Cam - another piece of the puzzle addressed. These basic tuning tips are great - we need to remind ourselves to try this stuff first when having issues rather than throwing money at it.
Adjust the vacuum advance. Use an Allen wrench and stick it into the opening where the hose connects. Turn it until the advancement goes away under idle. Then start your tuning over. Doesn't hurt to make sure the centrifugal weights are freely moving and not gummed up under your points plate as well if you want to really tear into it.
Great video. I'm old enough some of these carbureted cars were still in the hands of High Schoolers when I was that age. Dad taught me how to set points right on the money, though points were already an endangered species. I picked up vacuum gauge tuning from a magazine somewhere, and I ended up tuning some cars for friends because mine ran well. By no means am I an automotive genius, but I had a better eye for detail than most teenagers.
John Barker, I had no idea about vacuum gauge tuning until I watched these guy's video on it. Now my 351w with a Summit Racing carburetor is running super smooth and VERY responsive. You'd swear it was fuel injected!!!
High idle off the stop? pull 4-corner Holly and check secondaries to see if the secondary idle feed slot is exposed as a perfect square. Those have a secondary adjustment under a tab off side of gasket face that is only accessible with the carb off (newer models may have this exposed from the top). Get this adjusted so the exposed slot is as long as it is wide, forming a perfect square. HP models have an air bleed in the air cleaner stud boss that can be opened with a screwdriver to fine tune idle without using the throttle blades.
Thank you for the tip recording the last carburetor adjustment. Think that will be helpful this weekend when we have time for my wife’s Mustang. Keep your videos coming.
GM points dizzy plug gap is .035 and HEI is .045. I like using a vacuum gauge to set my idle mixture screws. If you can’t lower your idle cause your screw no longer has an adjustment then you need to limit the vacuum advance arm with a limiter plate you can make yourself cause you have too much advance at idle. To adjust the accelerator pump lever you hold the throttle wide open and hold it down with a piece of coat hanger, the using a large wide slot screwdriver, push the arm all the way down and hold it down while measuring the gap with a feeler gauge between the lever and bottom nut of the adjustor. Give it some drag like your setting solid lifters. Set using .015 feeler gauge.
What did I learn... you can relocate the starter solenoid... and rotate your battery into a more sensible orientation ;-) Getting hot down there eh fellas?...P.S. nice Crown Vic in the background!
Im hoping to be putting my inline 300 together here in the next 2 months or so... im sure ill be coming back to this video to reference when i got to set up the 2 barrel i got for it... efi is ok and all but running on an organized leak just looks/sounds way cooler
Thanks guys, great video. Currently tuning up my 1974 Ford Falcon (Australian) and this was very helpful. Would love to see more 'how to' and 'hot tips' videos on carb run vehicles. Thanks for all your hard work.
Not sure if you mentioned what carb it was but it is probably on the too big side for that engine. Which makes getting a low enough idle etc harder to do.
It is a 570 Street Avenger. So it is as good as you are likely to get from the stores now. I'm leaving the jets alone for now. After we get the 4R70W in it, we will tune if need be.
How did you guy's know I'm tuning my Mustang today after I finish the disk brakes? This video was meant for me. OH, HUGE question. I was running a little rich after I first tuned it. Mine is an I6 original set up for now. It had NGK plugs in when I bought it it and it ran smooth, prob a hotter plug. Can you please please please help me what a hotter plug than the stock running the 1 brl carb might be? Thanks for all you have taught me.
I'd look at the gap first. V8 is .016, six is .032 to.036. If the gap is correct, stock plug is an Autolite BF82 www.ngk.com/how-do-i-find-a-colder-or-hotter-plug-3 uk.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/MTRCRFT_PN/BF82
Love these videos. I actually tuned my '72 F100 360 using one of your videos from several years ago. I used a vacuum gauge as I just don't trust my timing marks on the damper. However, I'm having the same problem you are with the higher-than-normal idle. Idle setting is all the way back, and my 360 is around 650 rpm when it should be at 550 rpm. Sprayed the can around the carb and couldn't find a leak. Can't remember if I tried around the intake and distributor plate, but I will next time. Cranks up good and runs smooth, just a little high.
@@theovallas Hmm, I mostly just have experience with holleys. But I had an issue like this once with a poorly setup holley. The problem was that the secondary transfer slots were open too much at idle. On a holley you have to remove the carb and there is a screw on the bottom that adjusts the secondaries. What you do is adjust your idle with the carb off by adjusting the secondaries. Get them right where the transfer slot is just barely showing on the secondaries, then use your main curb idle screw to make the primaries the same, put the carb back on and then you can tweak it a bit with the main curb idle screw. May not be your issue but it's something you could look at. If you have your idle screw backed completely out then it has to be a case of the engine still getting air and fuel from somewhere. There are videos on youtube that explain this better.
Nope. That is only for idle and you can get thereby setting idle in park then seeing how close you are to idle in drive. I find that if you set idle in neutral at 700-800 RPM you will typically be around correct drive idle of 500 RPM.
Do you have a video about slow starts? I watch people's cars start right up the 1st or 2nd time it turns over. Mine, I have to crank on it for 10 15 seconds. Sometimes, a few times. I've replace about everything there is to replace from the battery, starter, plugs, wires, cap, button.... all of it.
I'd run points before I'd use one of those oversize monsters on a Ford. Hidden behind air cleaner, isn't so bad on most GM engines. Were designed to fire plugs specced at .060 - .080 gap. Big surprise! Those gaps commonly led to burned up plug wires.
What causes the minute needle vibrations on the vacuum gauge? I see some that are rock stable, and some (like this one and my 4 banger) that vibrate 1/2" between 21 and 21.5. My engine is locked at 8 BTDC so I can't advance any stumbles out: ported vacuum to distributor through a Ford spark delay valve. No vacuum leaks detected.
14:22 putting hands over carb air intake didn't seem vacuum gauge needle shoot up and choking out/shutting off engine: you said that could be done with a 4-barrel. Could that be done with a one-barrel or two barrel?
Can you explain fast idle! I have an Autolite 4100 and I can't figure it out. Also, valve/rocker adjustment? I have a slight chatter coming from the driver side of my engine? Any resource you can refer me to?
We didn't do that. If you are tuning with vacuum you want to have it "as it runs". If we are tuning with timing light we tune with the vacuum unhooked.
@@AutoRestoMod thanks for the reply so cool. My 64-1/2 does not have a tree I’ll try the vacuum port on the front of the edelbrock that goes to the automatic
You said it should be 600-700 rpm with that carburetor. I have a completely factory 67, 289 2v motor. With original factory carburetor. What should my rpm be? I have been told anywhere from 600, to 1000. Mine seems to run the best at 900-1000. Is that to fast? Or should I leave it alone?
@AutoRestoMod ok. I tried backing it down to 600. I get to 700, and it will idle all day. But as soon as I put it in gear, it dies. The idle is to low. I put it back up to 1000, and put it in gear, and it runs fine.
Did you find out why your idle is so high? I have the same problem. I was told to much timing. I have the same carburetor but mine is a 550 on a 327 with rv cam.
@@neilbreen6998 I messed with it again and I put it at 12 initial were I get the most vacuum (16) and I can still idle at 650rpm. Any higher and the idle curb screw is just floating. What is weird is with the edlebrock 600 I don't have thus problem. I can go to 16 initial and be at 650 rpm. Don't know if that's normal or if I'm looking to much in to it. I just like holley allot better and I can fine tune them better.
@@neilbreen6998 I messed with it again and I put it at 12 initial were I get the most vacuum (16) and I can still idle at 650rpm. Any higher and the idle curb screw is just floating. What is weird is with the edlebrock 600 I don't have thus problem. I can go to 16 initial and be at 650 rpm. Don't know if that's normal or if I'm looking to much in to it. I just like holley allot better and I can fine tune them better.
@@neilbreen6998 I have the transfer slots barely open. Only about 3/4 turn of idle screw open. The idle mix screws kill the engine when turned all the way in. I am going to replace all the metering block gaskets and base gaskets. Maybe there's a problem there.
Not in my experience. That is more likely a timing issue. It probably needs more idle advance. Make sure that the vacuum advance is hooked to manifold vacuum, also make sure that the vacuum advance canister is functional. If you get the vacuum advance sorted out and it still stalls out, it may need more initial advance timing.
Hi, Guys I got a stuck distributor. I have tried tapping on it with a hammer but don't want to damage it. Been soaking it wit PB blaster but no luck yet. Any ideas on getting it loose without pulling the oil pan an hammering it out from the bottom of the engine?
At 10:00, mentioning a Tach: When vacuum tuning in my truck without a tachometer, I used my electronic timing light display screen as a tachometer that I could see when vacuum tuning. Not using the light, but having the tach rpm display
Does anyone know if (on a 289 2100 carb), if there is no longer a stove pipe connected, do I block off that inlet on the spring choke? My rpm drops a little if I put my finger over the port. But don’t know if I should “cap” it. 🇨🇦
For normal operation, it's a vacuum leak that draws hot air into choke. Operates the bimetal coil inside housing. Was orig connected fresh air port on carb(or air cleaner), so air drawn was free of dust/dirt. I agree, disconnected, plug port.
Hi guys, I’ve taken the plunge and bought a vacuum gauge to finally get my timing and idle fine tuned. I have a 289 with an autolite 2100. Manual brakes and steering. Can you please tell me where to connect the gauge to get the show on the road.
Me again, sorry for bothering you but over here in my neck of the woods people with your knowledge don’t exist. There is no tree, just a line coming from the transmission to the intake manifold. Can I just disconnect that line for the vac test? Maybe I should explore the vacuum set up I have, I appear to have 2, 1 going to the distributor and the one I mentioned coming from the trans? Thanks again.
There is no good reason why there aren't more subscribers to this channel....such good info, with a dash of humor thrown in to boot..perfect!
That's what I keep saying!
Thanks Jeff and Cam - another piece of the puzzle addressed. These basic tuning tips are great - we need to remind ourselves to try this stuff first when having issues rather than throwing money at it.
Our pleasure!
Adjust the vacuum advance. Use an Allen wrench and stick it into the opening where the hose connects. Turn it until the advancement goes away under idle. Then start your tuning over.
Doesn't hurt to make sure the centrifugal weights are freely moving and not gummed up under your points plate as well if you want to really tear into it.
We will probably get into that at a later date. This was just to get folks headed in the right direction.
Great video. I'm old enough some of these carbureted cars were still in the hands of High Schoolers when I was that age. Dad taught me how to set points right on the money, though points were already an endangered species. I picked up vacuum gauge tuning from a magazine somewhere, and I ended up tuning some cars for friends because mine ran well. By no means am I an automotive genius, but I had a better eye for detail than most teenagers.
That eye for detail is gold my friend!
John Barker, I had no idea about vacuum gauge tuning until I watched these guy's video on it. Now my 351w with a Summit Racing carburetor is running super smooth and VERY responsive. You'd swear it was fuel injected!!!
High idle off the stop? pull 4-corner Holly and check secondaries to see if the secondary idle feed slot is exposed as a perfect square. Those have a secondary adjustment under a tab off side of gasket face that is only accessible with the carb off (newer models may have this exposed from the top). Get this adjusted so the exposed slot is as long as it is wide, forming a perfect square. HP models have an air bleed in the air cleaner stud boss that can be opened with a screwdriver to fine tune idle without using the throttle blades.
Thank you for the tip recording the last carburetor adjustment. Think that will be helpful this weekend when we have time for my wife’s Mustang. Keep your videos coming.
We will do so!
My wagon is doing that hard start after running. Now I plan on adjusting the timing and see if that’ll help. Great tuning video!
Could be heat soak, too. May want to try a phenolic resin carb spacer.
Use the vacuum gauge if you do, Theo could be right about the hot soak issue.
This video (although I watch all of them), has been a god send to my ‘68 289 stock setup. 🇨🇦👍🏼
Thanks for the kind words!
I realize it's kinda randomly asking but do anyone know of a good place to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Wallace Randall Flixportal :P
@Landyn Mauricio Thanks, signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) I appreciate it !
@Wallace Randall glad I could help xD
Thank you for this video. I love all your videos, but this is everything I'm looking for to help me on my 66
So glad!
It's possable the secondarys are open a little. causing high idle.
Again great info.
I don't think so, but that is always a possibility. I find that a lot of times the chokes tend to stick.
Another great and very informative video. Thanks, Jeff and Cam.
You are welcome!
Love these kind of videos, yall are so helpful and knowledgeable. I really appreciate yall sharing your knowledge!
GM points dizzy plug gap is .035 and HEI is .045. I like using a vacuum gauge to set my idle mixture screws. If you can’t lower your idle cause your screw no longer has an adjustment then you need to limit the vacuum advance arm with a limiter plate you can make yourself cause you have too much advance at idle. To adjust the accelerator pump lever you hold the throttle wide open and hold it down with a piece of coat hanger, the using a large wide slot screwdriver, push the arm all the way down and hold it down while measuring the gap with a feeler gauge between the lever and bottom nut of the adjustor. Give it some drag like your setting solid lifters. Set using .015 feeler gauge.
Thanks for the heads up John!
Nice to the point tutorial,awesome guys.
Glad you liked it!
Hey guys. RudeMan from Pawleys. Great episode. Making me rethink EFI for my 289
I know right?! every time I do this I get a warm fuzzy for the "controlled leak" as a viewer put it.
"Auction Special" oldest trick. 😉😝
Watching each time, I pick up on something good. Thank you
Yeah, it will be cool once he is done.
Perfect video for what I'm working on now. Thanks!
Glad!
Did you intentionally leave the choke slightly closed to account for the air cleaner being left off while tuning?
Come on Jeff. Go get that Mustang. You know you need it
Need vs. want...
@@AutoRestoMod Like married vs divorced 😂
What did I learn... you can relocate the starter solenoid... and rotate your battery into a more sensible orientation ;-)
Getting hot down there eh fellas?...P.S. nice Crown Vic in the background!
Great lord, hope that was not ALL you learned! Yeah, kinda partial to the Vic myself...
Im hoping to be putting my inline 300 together here in the next 2 months or so... im sure ill be coming back to this video to reference when i got to set up the 2 barrel i got for it... efi is ok and all but running on an organized leak just looks/sounds way cooler
" running on an organized leak just looks/sounds way cooler" Best description of a carburetor ever.
Thanks guys, great video. Currently tuning up my 1974 Ford Falcon (Australian) and this was very helpful. Would love to see more 'how to' and 'hot tips' videos on carb run vehicles. Thanks for all your hard work.
Thanks, will do!
Great job guys....
Thanks Paul!
These are good Jeff!
Thanks!
Always look forward to your videos!
Glad you like them!
I'm so glad I found this video
I’m gonna share as much as possible to get your goal subscribers hopefully
That is awesome! We need more folks like you!
You helped me out, so much! Thank you 😊
You're welcome
Love the vid. Thank you. One thing I didn’t see was did you guys had the vacuum advanced hooked in while tuning this video or capped?
Yes we do. Vacuum can on the distributor is the brain.
Not sure if you mentioned what carb it was but it is probably on the too big side for that engine. Which makes getting a low enough idle etc harder to do.
I just mentioned that above. Jet down as you should be able to kill the engine with low idle
It is a 570 Street Avenger. So it is as good as you are likely to get from the stores now. I'm leaving the jets alone for now. After we get the 4R70W in it, we will tune if need be.
hi 10:41 try adjusting secondary butterfly closed position , mine has a grub screw.
Ensure there is no distributor advance mechanical or vacuum
Thanks for the nice video guys
Our pleasure!
.015" clearance at Wide Open Throttle between accelerator pump arm and lever per Holley manual.
Thanks Mark! My old Holley guide is packed away in prep for the move and my brain is not up to remembering well right now. LOL
Great video.
Thanks!
Good Stuff Fellas, great information!
Appreciate it!
How did you guy's know I'm tuning my Mustang today after I finish the disk brakes? This video was meant for me. OH, HUGE question. I was running a little rich after I first tuned it. Mine is an I6 original set up for now. It had NGK plugs in when I bought it it and it ran smooth, prob a hotter plug. Can you please please please help me what a hotter plug than the stock running the 1 brl carb might be? Thanks for all you have taught me.
I'd look at the gap first. V8 is .016, six is .032 to.036. If the gap is correct, stock plug is an Autolite BF82
www.ngk.com/how-do-i-find-a-colder-or-hotter-plug-3
uk.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/MTRCRFT_PN/BF82
@@AutoRestoMod video on selecting heat range? This one always baffles me, especially if you swap to Aluminum heads
@@AutoRestoMod You are a true gentlemen! Thanks for all your help as it's made my project a success.
Love these videos. I actually tuned my '72 F100 360 using one of your videos from several years ago. I used a vacuum gauge as I just don't trust my timing marks on the damper. However, I'm having the same problem you are with the higher-than-normal idle. Idle setting is all the way back, and my 360 is around 650 rpm when it should be at 550 rpm. Sprayed the can around the carb and couldn't find a leak. Can't remember if I tried around the intake and distributor plate, but I will next time. Cranks up good and runs smooth, just a little high.
What kind of carburetor are you using?
@@Terminxman New Edelbrock 1906 AVS2
@@theovallas Hmm, I mostly just have experience with holleys. But I had an issue like this once with a poorly setup holley. The problem was that the secondary transfer slots were open too much at idle. On a holley you have to remove the carb and there is a screw on the bottom that adjusts the secondaries. What you do is adjust your idle with the carb off by adjusting the secondaries. Get them right where the transfer slot is just barely showing on the secondaries, then use your main curb idle screw to make the primaries the same, put the carb back on and then you can tweak it a bit with the main curb idle screw. May not be your issue but it's something you could look at. If you have your idle screw backed completely out then it has to be a case of the engine still getting air and fuel from somewhere. There are videos on youtube that explain this better.
@@Terminxman I will check out the transfer slots - thank you!
Jet down. You should be able to kill the engine with the idle low
Thanks for the information I did what you said and it worked like a charm
Glad it helped
Almost wonder if something in the choke is sticking holding that idle up.
I have come to suspect that more than anything.
Question?!
Aren’t you supposed to have someone put it in DRIVE (under load) as you adjust everything?
Nope. That is only for idle and you can get thereby setting idle in park then seeing how close you are to idle in drive. I find that if you set idle in neutral at 700-800 RPM you will typically be around correct drive idle of 500 RPM.
Do you have a video about slow starts? I watch people's cars start right up the 1st or 2nd time it turns over. Mine, I have to crank on it for 10 15 seconds. Sometimes, a few times. I've replace about everything there is to replace from the battery, starter, plugs, wires, cap, button.... all of it.
Did you do a video on tuning the 4300 in the Mach1 yet?
I'm still looking for "the guy"...
Never liked the overly big hei distributor caps
Neither do we. We're considering what to do with that. It works perfectly well...and yet...it is ugly. LOL
I'd run points before I'd use one of those oversize monsters on a Ford. Hidden behind air cleaner, isn't so bad on most GM engines. Were designed to fire plugs specced at .060 - .080 gap. Big surprise! Those gaps commonly led to burned up plug wires.
I agree.Will never instal that hei on my Ford's,I always have good luck with Duraspark 2.
Thanks.
You are welcome
What causes the minute needle vibrations on the vacuum gauge? I see some that are rock stable, and some (like this one and my 4 banger) that vibrate 1/2" between 21 and 21.5. My engine is locked at 8 BTDC so I can't advance any stumbles out: ported vacuum to distributor through a Ford spark delay valve. No vacuum leaks detected.
Isn't there a secondary butterfly adjustment on the bottom of the carb on the passenger side of the carb?
Thinking same, mis adj secondary plate opening can lead to high idle speed.
There is, but typically that is OK. I think it is more a sticking choke. last couple Avengers I have had do the same thing.
14:22 putting hands over carb air intake didn't seem vacuum gauge needle shoot up and choking out/shutting off engine: you said that could be done with a 4-barrel. Could that be done with a one-barrel or two barrel?
BUY IT! BUY IT! BUY IT! BUY IT!
ONE CAN NEVER HAVE ENOUGH EARLY MUSTANGS!
Not for sale. I am helping my friend out. But my friend Bob DOES have a '67 Hardtop....
@@AutoRestoMod That's the one I meant to buy buy buy :)
Can you explain fast idle! I have an Autolite 4100 and I can't figure it out. Also, valve/rocker adjustment? I have a slight chatter coming from the driver side of my engine? Any resource you can refer me to?
I've been thinking of doing a video on carburetor basics. And cam and I are discussing how to portray some of the issues that plauge old engines.
@@AutoRestoMod That would be fantastic--anything would help. I'll gladly gobble up any wisdom you guys have to offer to me in the form of a video!
Great stuff
Thanks!
Did I miss removal of distributor vacuum during timing adjustment.
We didn't do that. If you are tuning with vacuum you want to have it "as it runs". If we are tuning with timing light we tune with the vacuum unhooked.
Where does the vacuum plug in to? Is it a “T” fitting to the distributor?
That is addressed in the video it plugs into the vacuum tree on the back of the engine.
@@AutoRestoMod thanks for the reply so cool. My 64-1/2 does not have a tree I’ll try the vacuum port on the front of the edelbrock that goes to the automatic
You said it should be 600-700 rpm with that carburetor. I have a completely factory 67, 289 2v motor. With original factory carburetor. What should my rpm be? I have been told anywhere from 600, to 1000. Mine seems to run the best at 900-1000. Is that to fast? Or should I leave it alone?
Best RPM is around 600. Any higher and, on most carburetors (specifically the 2100 and 4100), you move from the idle slots to the run slots.
@AutoRestoMod ok. I tried backing it down to 600. I get to 700, and it will idle all day. But as soon as I put it in gear, it dies. The idle is to low. I put it back up to 1000, and put it in gear, and it runs fine.
@@AutoRestoMod I'm not trying to argue. I'm trying to learn.
.16 is a hell of a gap
.016
Sorry, I misspoke, 4th Glory is right, .016.
@@AutoRestoMod me too
@@4thGloryMonday no kidding🤪
just set the gap with a business card, never done me wrong
Did you find out why your idle is so high? I have the same problem. I was told to much timing. I have the same carburetor but mine is a 550 on a 327 with rv cam.
Our return spring set up is...funky. I also suspect that there might be some bund between the intake and base.
@@neilbreen6998 I messed with it again and I put it at 12 initial were I get the most vacuum (16) and I can still idle at 650rpm. Any higher and the idle curb screw is just floating. What is weird is with the edlebrock 600 I don't have thus problem. I can go to 16 initial and be at 650 rpm. Don't know if that's normal or if I'm looking to much in to it. I just like holley allot better and I can fine tune them better.
@@neilbreen6998 I messed with it again and I put it at 12 initial were I get the most vacuum (16) and I can still idle at 650rpm. Any higher and the idle curb screw is just floating. What is weird is with the edlebrock 600 I don't have thus problem. I can go to 16 initial and be at 650 rpm. Don't know if that's normal or if I'm looking to much in to it. I just like holley allot better and I can fine tune them better.
@@neilbreen6998 I have the transfer slots barely open. Only about 3/4 turn of idle screw open. The idle mix screws kill the engine when turned all the way in. I am going to replace all the metering block gaskets and base gaskets. Maybe there's a problem there.
Would the carb being out of adjustment cause stalling when put into gear?
Not in my experience. That is more likely a timing issue. It probably needs more idle advance. Make sure that the vacuum advance is hooked to manifold vacuum, also make sure that the vacuum advance canister is functional.
If you get the vacuum advance sorted out and it still stalls out, it may need more initial advance timing.
Hi, Guys I got a stuck distributor. I have tried tapping on it with a hammer but don't want to damage it. Been soaking it wit PB blaster but no luck yet. Any ideas on getting it loose without pulling the oil pan an hammering it out from the bottom of the engine?
thanks so much for doing this and being so responsive to questions and feedback. Much appreciated!!!
Any time!
Where do you hook up the vacuum gauge? I've browsed numerous videos and nobody shows the easy steps for dummies...It should be be so simple...
There should be a vacuum tree on the intake manifold.
At 10:00, mentioning a Tach:
When vacuum tuning in my truck without a tachometer, I used my electronic timing light display screen as a tachometer that I could see when vacuum tuning. Not using the light, but having the tach rpm display
great video
Thank you!
If you have to make a dedicated tach wire, we'll what about my temperature amd oil pressure gauge? This is my current problem rightnow...
Those can be run independent as well.
Does anyone know if (on a 289 2100 carb), if there is no longer a stove pipe connected, do I block off that inlet on the spring choke? My rpm drops a little if I put my finger over the port. But don’t know if I should “cap” it. 🇨🇦
Vacuum leaks are something you dont want. Cap it and set the idle mix per the guys in this video.
O agree with poppy duck. Mikes Carburetor also sells an electric chock for those carburetors as well.
For normal operation, it's a vacuum leak that draws hot air into choke. Operates the bimetal coil inside housing. Was orig connected fresh air port on carb(or air cleaner), so air drawn was free of dust/dirt. I agree, disconnected, plug port.
Hi guys, I’ve taken the plunge and bought a vacuum gauge to finally get my timing and idle fine tuned. I have a 289 with an autolite 2100. Manual brakes and steering. Can you please tell me where to connect the gauge to get the show on the road.
There should be a vacuum tree on the back of the intake. The hose connects there.
Man that was fast, outstanding, thank you so much. Declan, Ireland.
Me again, sorry for bothering you but over here in my neck of the woods people with your knowledge don’t exist. There is no tree, just a line coming from the transmission to the intake manifold. Can I just disconnect that line for the vac test? Maybe I should explore the vacuum set up I have, I appear to have 2, 1 going to the distributor and the one I mentioned coming from the trans? Thanks again.
Now.... you can show us how to tune larger cars......maybe ....a ..... STARLINER?
Galaxie OK?
Once again some great information. My inline 6 is much easier to tune.
No doubt!
The Choke plate is not completely open
Yes. The owner didn't hook up the electric choke. We're doing that with the detail series.
I akways hook my electric chokes of alterator stator.Even works on the 3g
WOW
YEAH
Tell homeboy to lose the watch.
He does. He usually takes it off before we shoot.
هلو. ماي فريند. علي. كويت
Hello
@@AutoRestoMod ضيفني على وتسءب. كويت. نمبر. 0096597581505
Annoying pop-ups and
Begging
Get rid of that crappy distributor
Everybody (me included) doesn't like that thing LOL.
Please tell the owner to remove that tiny air cleaner.
Easier said than done. The DUI Ignition cap takes up space where the air cleaner could be.