1960 Cincinnati Toolmaster Mill Refurb - Precision Manual Machining of Repair Parts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- First of all - I just watched Max Grants latest video, and apologize for referring to my revolving center as a live center. I like knowing proper terminology, so I am pleased as punch to now know the correct terms. Going forward I’ll get it right! It is amazing how terms change over time.
More progress on the Cincinnati repair. In this installment the jack shaft and housing are repaired. This features machining of a completely new jackshaft, and modification of the housing casting to take new bearings. By taking a careful approach to consideration of geometry and component relationships, the final result is as good as or better than the factory original.
A longer video this time, so that I could feature as much detail as possible. Let me know how you feel about that! Viewer feedback has been incredibly helpful.
No sponsorships - but stuff I like:
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Things.
Intro 00:05
The Shaft Alloy 01:50
How I'm Going to Do It 03:19
Turning the Shaft 05:44
Interim Measurements 08:30
Putting my Tool on Center 11:48
Finishing the Shaft - Profiliing Tool 12:27
Parting Off - 15:06
Milling the Keyways 15:33
Machining the Housing 18:10
Making a Mandrel and Clocking the Part 22:24
Machining the First Counterbore 25:44
Setting up for the Second Bearing 30:18
More Explanation 36:31
Machining the Second Counterbore 38:23
Final Assembly 44:00
Ending Blah Blah 45:03
![โรงเรียนตอนตี 2 โคตรหลอน..!! [โรงเรียนไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2MAEMwqVYh8/mqdefault.jpg)
When I sit down to watch a video on TH-cam, whether yours, or any of the other 150 channels I subscribe to, I watch the entire video Start to end. It doesn't matter how long it is. When a content creator takes the time to film and edit a video, I am going to take the time to watch it. I usually learn something new from the video, as I did by watching your video today. Thank you Stuart.
I feel the same way Jim! Thank you for your kind words as always!
I enjoy the longer videos with voice over added at the end. I feel the operation of the machine tool requires close to full concentration by the operator, and not be distracted by having to talk the viewer in real time. As another viewer just commented, those that don't have the time of the inclination to watch the whole thing can skip through specific sections. I'm enjoying watching the restoration of your mill, I love seeing what is possible, and the seeing the many different ways of 'skinning the cat' to properly restore a worn machine back to proper working order.
Thank you for watching! I really appreciate your comment - it supports my belief that I would rather provide the detail for people with a genuine interest who will watch it.
hi Stuart
nicely explained, as for long or short videos, detailed or not so detailed, you will never please all of the peolpe all of the time.
I just go with my gut and what suits me, if anyone wants to know more and i've omitted it, i will willingly help anyone with more info at anytime, if anyone wants less then they can just skip through the video.
Keep on keeping on👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
see you next time
regards
Kev
A very fine approach! I think I will basically do the same. I'm trying to explain my thought process and show the detail - which I think is of interest to the people I want to connect with.
You’ve put a lot of time and effort in this rebuild Stuart. It’s made an interesting series. Bet you’ll be happy when it’s done, and the chips start to fly. Cheers Nobby
Getting there, a little at a time.
Striving to make the part the best you can is always the best approach in my opinion. Great result.
Tilting your telescoping gauges is how I was taught too as terry moore said earlier in his post.
Thank you for your kind words! This sort of feedback is brilliant and really helpful.
Great result there Stuart . Cheers 👍👍👍
Thanks for looking in! Always glad to hear ftom you. I enjoyed working through the process on this little part of the project.
Very nice work sir. I’m sure you are getting tired working on it, but you will be very happy when you are done.
Cheers Rusty. It is a bit protracted, but the mill will be done and likely not need further work for many years, so the investment now will pay off overall.
I’ve been watching your latest wigwags. Haven’t finished them yet but will comment on them once I have.
Gday Stuart, excellent work I say, well worth the effort mate, cheers
Thank you! And thank you so much for watching and commenting, it means a lot. I hope all is well with you! Cheers and all the best.
That should give you years of trouble free service. 👍
I hope so! Looking forward to putting it together and trying it out. Cheers! 👍👍
Great attention to detail there Stuart, you get out what you put in, excellent job. Now some advice about using telescopic gauges ( sometimes referred to as Snap Gauges ) for a good reason. Ideally you need to place the gage in the hole at a slight angle, put slight tension on the locking screw. You then straighten the gage until it Snaps out of the bore, this will give you a much more accurate dimension than how you were trying to do it by "feel". By having it oversized and at an angle to start with, is that when you straighten it, the cylinders compress until it reaches the high point of the bore, then "snaps" out. Providing you have put sufficient pressure on the locking screw, the measurement will remain. It will take you a bit of practice to get to know just how much to tighten the clamping screw. Too tight and you will have a job to get the gauge to "snap" out. Hope this helps. Kindest Regards from Australia.
Cheers Dave, great to hear from you and thank you for taking the time to write a detailed explanation. I shall definitely practice this technique and get better at using the snap gauges.
Telescoping gages are perfectly acceptable for these types of measurements. A dial bore gage is even better, once set up with a suitable ring or gage block stack. Might I suggest tilting the telescoping gage slightly in the hole and then snugging the lock and gently pulling it thorough the bore. This is the accepted method for using telescoping gages. If you want to test your method, get a suitable ring gage from EBay of a known size and practice measuring the ring gage until you can repeat the measurement reliably time after time with the telescoping gage. This was how Apprentices were trained back in the 70's at most Navy Yard"s that I worked in. Practice like this will help you immensely.
Terry, thank you for your detailed reply and input - very much appreciated. I shall practice the technique you outline. Ring gauges are on my list - I was bidding on a set at auction just this week, but alas they went for more than I could spare. What I may do is make some ring guages, and measure them at work with the calibrated bore gauges there - I feel that should be a decent reference - but I'll keep an eye out for a good set.
@@StuartsShed just get a couple sizes or use bal bearings you already have. Either one works. There are a couole of Ebay sellers that have used rings out of automotive plants that are still usable.
Brilliant idea with the ball bearings.
I got a cheap stand for the mirometer for boring bar measurements saves juggling them
That's a great idea. I'll have to find one - I can see that making these fine measurements much easier. Thanks for looking in and commenting!
good video stuart
Thank you so much!
Question, in the videos I see diagrams of the various parts you mill, 10:06 in this video's case. Are you getting those from the manufacturer or designing those up yourself?
I make all these drawings myself, reverse engineering / designing the parts myself as needed. I don’t think spares are readily available for these particular machine tools.