Thank u sir very informative I have done a automatic sequencing using 8 pin relay timers for each motor starter one stop and start button and holding relay
Sir, Thank you for your videos. I really enjoy your channel. I’ve been planning to install a 2,500 gallon Water Tank (Cistern) and connect my single-phase 240V 2HP submersible water well pump to the tank. I want to automate the control (Start/Stop) of the submersible pump with a Float switch (SPST switch) in the Cistern. Most/All the topics/videos on motor/Pump control shows the use of a Contactors as Motor Starters (which seems to be used mostly for 3-phase high-end/high-current applications). And, I can kinda understand using a Contactor for a 3-Phase high-voltage motor. But, for Single Phase 240V Pump Motors, like my application for a Submersible Water Well Pump (or, any single-phase 240V motor) it doesn’t seem like a Contactor should be needed. If we Open and Close just one of the Hot legs of the 240V circuit to the Pump Motor (like, for example, with a Single Pole Single Throw Float switch), shouldn’t that be enough to start or stop the Pump Motor? Of course, the Float switch will need to rated to carry the Voltage and Amps required of the Pump Motor. I realize (think) that one of the hot legs of the circuit will be energized all the way down to and through the submersible pump motor and back up the other Leg up to the Open Float switch. And, the other hot leg will be energized from the power source to the Open Float switch. But, the Open 240V circuit Current will stop right there (at the open float switch). And, when the Float switch closes the 240V circuit will be complete and the pump motor will Start-up again. If this is the wrong approach, please help me to understand why this Float Switch application design is wrong/flawed for my 240V single-phase motor application and what I am missing. Many Thanks in advance.
While that might work electrically, where is you overload protection for the motor? Using a motor starter will ensure that the motor has OL protection and will also keep all the motor current from flowing through the float.
@@AccessToPower Thanks for your reply. My submersible pump control box has OL protection components included. I have since decided to use a low voltage (24V AC) thru the float switch and then use that 24V circuit to energize the coil on a contractor to provide 240V power to my submersible pump control box (which includes the OL protection).
You are a wonderful teacher .. I am from Iraq and we all like you tutorial
This should have waaaaayyyyyy more subsribers!! Excellent stuff well explained
Much appreciated! Thanks for the great comment!
Useful stuff I really appreciate this
Use some led to see the action
Thank u sir very informative I have done a automatic sequencing using 8 pin relay timers for each motor starter one stop and start button and holding relay
Nice
thanks for the video, can you make one video from parallel kicks
Sir, Thank you for your videos. I really enjoy your channel.
I’ve been planning to install a 2,500 gallon Water Tank (Cistern) and connect my single-phase 240V 2HP submersible water well pump to the tank. I want to automate the control (Start/Stop) of the submersible pump with a Float switch (SPST switch) in the Cistern.
Most/All the topics/videos on motor/Pump control shows the use of a Contactors as Motor Starters (which seems to be used mostly for 3-phase high-end/high-current applications). And, I can kinda understand using a Contactor for a 3-Phase high-voltage motor. But, for Single Phase 240V Pump Motors, like my application for a Submersible Water Well Pump (or, any single-phase 240V motor) it doesn’t seem like a Contactor should be needed.
If we Open and Close just one of the Hot legs of the 240V circuit to the Pump Motor (like, for example, with a Single Pole Single Throw Float switch), shouldn’t that be enough to start or stop the Pump Motor? Of course, the Float switch will need to rated to carry the Voltage and Amps required of the Pump Motor.
I realize (think) that one of the hot legs of the circuit will be energized all the way down to and through the submersible pump motor and back up the other Leg up to the Open Float switch. And, the other hot leg will be energized from the power source to the Open Float switch. But, the Open 240V circuit Current will stop right there (at the open float switch). And, when the Float switch closes the 240V circuit will be complete and the pump motor will Start-up again.
If this is the wrong approach, please help me to understand why this Float Switch application design is wrong/flawed for my 240V single-phase motor application and what I am missing.
Many Thanks in advance.
While that might work electrically, where is you overload protection for the motor? Using a motor starter will ensure that the motor has OL protection and will also keep all the motor current from flowing through the float.
@@AccessToPower Thanks for your reply. My submersible pump control box has OL protection components included. I have since decided to use a low voltage (24V AC) thru the float switch and then use that 24V circuit to energize the coil on a contractor to provide 240V power to my submersible pump control box (which includes the OL protection).
Can you please go through details on colors code for motor control wiring.
thank you
How to wire a duplex pump from circuit
start 2 or 3 motors with 1 start button. get to the real stuff.