How I unexpectedly onsighted 32/8b+ - Mr September
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- I love it when a route has some mystery and folklore around it. In the last couple of years, there's been a few strong people try Mr September and not get it done (none I've heard at least). Those trying it say it's about V10/11 on a rope, or 32/8b+.
Small edges on a semi steep wall is just my cup of tea, so I decided I'd have a crack at trying to onsight it. Happy to have taken the punt :).
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Thank you:
The North Face Australia
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Australian Climbing podcast: www.baffledays...
Go Tom! I'd love to see more video analysis like this, very informative!
Sounds great!, They're fun to make so happy to make them when I can
Congratulations Tom! What an achievement!!!
Thanks team ✌️
Definitely would want to see/hear more. You're a pretty good storyteller, and you definitely make things exciting! One thing I'd appreciate is if you talk through the difference between this onsight and similarly difficult redpoints (especially the info you gain before the send).
Psyched to share when I can for sure. Awesome to hear you’re enjoying it. Ooo I like that idea. I’ll add it in ✌️
Someone must have pre-placed your draws? Its sweet to see the send in video but I wish I was there to witness in person as the energy must have felt unreal, congrats Tom! More route commentary please. Your Aussie climbing slang cracks us Canadians up!
Stick clip. Haha no big energy release, just a bit of a confused wow. Haha what slang, I speak totally normal haha. On a trip to Europe a few years ago I realised how different our lingo is haha
Nick Sutter also set sick nutter, a classic boulder in the grampians and he gave a grade of V5. Many people disagree and think it is more like V6-7. Seems like a pattern 🤔. Good stuff onsighting such a difficult route.
He leaves a trail of baffled climbers in his wake haha. This has apparently crumbled a bit over the years though. So that could explain the difficulty
that was a great vid mate. Also a big fan of the background to the climb. Nicely done!
Psyched you enjoyed 😀
that was awesome! thanks for the analysis tom
Psyched you liked it ✌️
Awesome send and breakdown, thanks for sharing!
No sweat, psyched you enjoyed ✌️
Nice one Tom!!! 🙂
Nick Sutter is a beast!!! 💪
He’s gotta come back to OZ!!! 🙏
He's a total weapon.
I like the idea of reading beta with the hands before the feet. Also incredible performance, looked like a fight
Breaking it down into smaller steps is super helpful for me. I’m really not good at remembering it all in one big chunk
I mean … many people forget about thinking about feet and body position at all.
Top effort mate. Always difficult to tell grade from a video but "full gas Tom" was definitely present so it's not going to be easy.
Yeah hard to tell what's happening in video for sure. Not many moves, but all pretty spicy.
Congrats! 👊🏼
Thanks mate :)
Was there the day before you and thought "maybe next time I should try that 28." You just saved me from a painful day 🤣
Haha I don’t think you’d have been the first to fall into that trap with this route 😂
Good on ya! enjoyed the break down as well ( like the white circle for reference) If your up for breakinging it down into boulder sections/grades as well and hold size in MM that would be really interesting. Thanks heaps for the content!
Haha even more nerdy, love it. Will be sure to mention it next time
woah, that is so cool! congrats so much, and also congrats on the 10k! well deserved!
Haha thanks doubly :). Psyched on both for sure
up for more breakdowns for sure - this is great Tom
When the right route comes along, I’ll do it again for sure
Love the breakdown. Your excitement is contagious. Makes me want to go work the projects.
Haha psyched to hear that :)
Congrats! Watching this as i am eating my pre climbing snack and stuff like this just is super motivating to me. So i would love some more content like this :)
Haha awesome. Hope it was a good session. Keen to make more
Would be keen to see more of the analysis also.
Will do. Psyched you enjoyed ✌️
I'd obviously love more of this! Congrats!
Noted 😀. Will share more when there’s more ✌️
What a lovely sounding crag dog...
Haha yeah not good for those couple minutes. She’s usually great and was great before and after this. Something got into her
Super cool mate, definitely do more of them, it is always interesting to understand what goes through strong climbers mind when they are pushed to their limits. Well don on the onsight
Thanks mate, psyched you enjoyed. Definitely keen to share more when they happen ✌️
Hey Tom
For Onsight climbing like this, do you place the quickdraws by yourselfe or are they already hanged in? How do you manage this in other routes? Or did your climbing partner cliped them in.
Thanks
I love your content. Greetings from Swizzy🇨🇭
It depends. This one, I was able to stick clip a couple from the ground, then placed the last few while climbing. The 8b I onsighted a week or so later, I placed every draw, accept for the first one. Most of the time, I’m placing them. I don’t stress too much on the draw ethos. Placing on the go is more ‘pure,’ sure. However when all you need to do is just go climbing, no mucking about with placing draws, I’d argue that pretty pure as well. I’ve never gotten someone to place draws for me or anything like that. That feels like a stretch too far haha
"Aparently, I've just onsighted 32" Love it! Congratulations
it was a surprise haha
How would you grade this as a boulder? A 7c+ high ball? Or harder?
V11 is what most think
It's alright... Love it when a classic sandbag gets some new attention. You could continue the myth: "Nah mate, solid 28.." Haha, sick.
Haha totally. Maybe 27/28
@@TomOHalloranAus Everyone loves a good slash grade! :)
heaps sick
Thanks mate ✌️
Sick one 💪
Thanks ✌️
Great effort!
Thanks. Pretty psyched ✌️
❤🎉
Haha thanks
Thats insane
It took me totally by surprise. Didn't expect it
Loved it!!!!
Psyched you enjoyed 😀
👍
✌️✌️
Nice work Tom!
Thanks mate. Psyched
@@TomOHalloranAus Exceptional onsight, Tom! The level of composure with your right hand from 0:47 to 1:16 is awe-inspiring. It reminds me of Seb Bouin's finesse on Beyond Integral between 8:18 and 8:46. It's a rare spectacle to witness such tenacity during delicate readjustments, ensuring the grip on the crystals is just perfect. Thoroughly enjoyed the video!
A small suggestion - perhaps consider introducing the climb with some background info and a voice overlay at the beginning, followed by the entire uncut climb towards the end or in a separate video. Your narration, especially when expressing the creeping doubt at the resting point, adds a thrilling layer of suspense. It would be unfortunate if someone clicked away during the uncut section and missed out on that captivating narrative.
Congrats! The start looks nails! I really enjoy these videos and would definately be keen to watch more of them!
Definitely keen to share more when they happen. Psyched you enjoy them ✌️
Awesome 👌 Sic Nutter boulder problem in the Grampians is one I'd like to try ! Great break down of analysing the visual perspective 👌
Sic Nutter is well worthwhile!