Thank you so much. I am trying to get back to ceramics after many many years. Your explanations take me back to my college years. Everything is coming back little by little, there is hope!!!!!😅😅
Hope springs eternal. I am so glad you are getting back into ceramics. These videos are the ones that I produced for my college classes when we couldn’t meet in person.
Thank you for the clarity of your explanations, I’ve reached the point where I can turn simple pots but the firing results are so disappointing...I obviously still have a lot to learn. I shall keep watching your videos..
Keep learning and practicing. Like anything worth learning it takes time, practice and experience. Ceramics is such an amazing process, I am still disappointed in results and am still learning from every firing.
Thanks it’s great to watch you. It sounds all so simple and easy to to do when you describe it but actually as beginners we have to be prepared for a lot of disappointment with glazing results 😊
I hope this can reduce your level of disappointment. The best strategy is to test and test again on pieces which do not matter until you are happy with the results. Thanks!
You probably dont care at all but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an instagram account..? I somehow forgot my login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me.
Can you comment on the "need" to bisque fire? The Chinese porcelain potters of Jingdezhen never bisque-fire: they apply underglaze and glazes directly onto the air-dried body and fire everything only once. Nothing explodes, although the temperatures are even higher than for stoneware. Is that because it is porcelain or because the glaze fit is better?
Good Question! You are correct that ceramics do not need to be bisque fired before glazing as they do in Jingdezhen and manufacturers around the world. The reason to bisque is to make it simpler to glaze without fear of breakage. Bisquing your work hardens the ware and prevents it from breaking down when wet. Bisquing also allows you to glaze, make mistakes, wash off the glaze and reglaze. If you do try once firing your work you need to; make sure that the ware is bone dry after the firing, follow the same rate of temperature climb that you do in a bisque firing for the initial stages of the firing before the climb to the peak temperature for the glaze to mature which will keep the work from blowing up. If you once fire you have to use glazes formulated to shrink as much as the clay does or you will get crawling (bare spots and glaze falling off of the pots). The advantages of painting your oxides on top of the glaze on bisque are crisper lines on the finished pieces and the ability to correct mistakes. Painting directly on greenware or even bisque does not allow for any redos. The kind of clay does make a difference in that more open bodies with sand or grog allow the moisture to escape more easily than a dense clay body like a smooth earthenware or porcelain. Some clays that contain ball clay have much better green strength which make handling the ware for once firing easier without as much breakage. Not all porcelains are the same. Most that I have used tend to be very fragile when green, while there are exceptions like clay bodies that contain Grolleg Kaolin. I haven't had the pleasure of using the original Kaolin from Jingdezhen but I imagine that it too has good green strength to resist the stresses of handling and glazing. Thanks for your question and good luck with your work. Just take it slow and test, test, test before committing a favorite piece.
Hi there! Yesterday I got my first bisque firing back from the kiln and I started to glaze them. When I watch videos on TH-cam I notice that people their glazes look very watery. When I use the glaze I have, it gets thick on the brush very quickly so I get some streaks! Eventhough I shake well and long enough! Do the streaks matter? Will those go away after the glaze firing? If not do you maybe have any tips? I got so confused when I started painting the glaze :( Maybe its normal but it looked different than glazing I see on TH-cam
Hi Sannah, If you are using commercial ‘brushing’ glazes prepared in bottles, read the instructions on the label. They have additives which are designed to slow drying and help the flow when you apply the glaze which reduces the brush marks. Usually it calls for 2-3 flowing coats. Use a soft brush, I use a medium to large sumi or hake brush, my friends have had success with an artists fan brush. Load the brush, touch the tip to the mouth of the bottle to get rid of the drip at the tip of the brush. Brush in one direction. Brush the attachments like handles and edges like lips first. If you find you’re getting large brush strokes it is ok to add small amounts of water, stir and try again. Keep track of how many coats you have applied by putting your pieces on newspaper and drawing a line on the paper after each coat. You can re-coat as soon as the glaze looses its shine. If you have brush strokes after 3 coats they usually will melt into a smooth surface. An exception might be a matte glaze which you might need to be more careful when brushing. If you have enough glaze it is easier to thin the glaze a little and pour it inside and then out immediately for an even coat. I have another video on brushing medium, which is already added to the commercial glazes, that goes over how to brush glaze without streaks. th-cam.com/video/LLXt6vbkOJc/w-d-xo.html Allow your pieces to dry before firing and GOOD LUCK!
Hi, The Glaze sinters and gets hard but does not melt into the glaze. It is possible, if you mistakenly glaze greenware, to bisque it and then fire it in a glaze firing where it will come out fine.
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Holaaaaa profe no sabés cuánto te agradezco tus enseñanzas, GRANDE 👏👏😘🤗
Such detailed teacher you are👍 Just thanks a lot for your patiance and knowledge.🌹👍❤️🇹🇷
Thank you so much. I am trying to get back to ceramics after many many years. Your explanations take me back to my college years. Everything is coming back little by little, there is hope!!!!!😅😅
Hope springs eternal. I am so glad you are getting back into ceramics. These videos are the ones that I produced for my college classes when we couldn’t meet in person.
Thank you for the clarity of your explanations, I’ve reached the point where I can turn simple pots but the firing results are so disappointing...I obviously still have a lot to learn. I shall keep watching your videos..
Keep learning and practicing. Like anything worth learning it takes time, practice and experience. Ceramics is such an amazing process, I am still disappointed in results and am still learning from every firing.
VERY informative and my kinda speed at learning. Great video. Keep them coming!
Thank you! I present them at the speed that I have had success teaching my classes.
Thanks it’s great to watch you. It sounds all so simple and easy to to do when you describe it but actually as beginners we have to be prepared for a lot of disappointment with glazing results 😊
I hope this can reduce your level of disappointment. The best strategy is to test and test again on pieces which do not matter until you are happy with the results. Thanks!
You probably dont care at all but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an instagram account..?
I somehow forgot my login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me.
@Anderson Finnegan instablaster ;)
Can you comment on the "need" to bisque fire? The Chinese porcelain potters of Jingdezhen never bisque-fire: they apply underglaze and glazes directly onto the air-dried body and fire everything only once. Nothing explodes, although the temperatures are even higher than for stoneware. Is that because it is porcelain or because the glaze fit is better?
Good Question!
You are correct that ceramics do not need to be bisque fired before glazing as they do in Jingdezhen and manufacturers around the world. The reason to bisque is to make it simpler to glaze without fear of breakage. Bisquing your work hardens the ware and prevents it from breaking down when wet. Bisquing also allows you to glaze, make mistakes, wash off the glaze and reglaze.
If you do try once firing your work you need to; make sure that the ware is bone dry after the firing, follow the same rate of temperature climb that you do in a bisque firing for the initial stages of the firing before the climb to the peak temperature for the glaze to mature which will keep the work from blowing up. If you once fire you have to use glazes formulated to shrink as much as the clay does or you will get crawling (bare spots and glaze falling off of the pots).
The advantages of painting your oxides on top of the glaze on bisque are crisper lines on the finished pieces and the ability to correct mistakes. Painting directly on greenware or even bisque does not allow for any redos.
The kind of clay does make a difference in that more open bodies with sand or grog allow the moisture to escape more easily than a dense clay body like a smooth earthenware or porcelain. Some clays that contain ball clay have much better green strength which make handling the ware for once firing easier without as much breakage. Not all porcelains are the same. Most that I have used tend to be very fragile when green, while there are exceptions like clay bodies that contain Grolleg Kaolin. I haven't had the pleasure of using the original Kaolin from Jingdezhen but I imagine that it too has good green strength to resist the stresses of handling and glazing.
Thanks for your question and good luck with your work. Just take it slow and test, test, test before committing a favorite piece.
Hi there! Yesterday I got my first bisque firing back from the kiln and I started to glaze them. When I watch videos on TH-cam I notice that people their glazes look very watery. When I use the glaze I have, it gets thick on the brush very quickly so I get some streaks! Eventhough I shake well and long enough! Do the streaks matter? Will those go away after the glaze firing? If not do you maybe have any tips?
I got so confused when I started painting the glaze :( Maybe its normal but it looked different than glazing I see on TH-cam
Hi Sannah, If you are using commercial ‘brushing’ glazes prepared in bottles, read the instructions on the label. They have additives which are designed to slow drying and help the flow when you apply the glaze which reduces the brush marks. Usually it calls for 2-3 flowing coats. Use a soft brush, I use a medium to large sumi or hake brush, my friends have had success with an artists fan brush. Load the brush, touch the tip to the mouth of the bottle to get rid of the drip at the tip of the brush. Brush in one direction. Brush the attachments like handles and edges like lips first. If you find you’re getting large brush strokes it is ok to add small amounts of water, stir and try again. Keep track of how many coats you have applied by putting your pieces on newspaper and drawing a line on the paper after each coat. You can re-coat as soon as the glaze looses its shine. If you have brush strokes after 3 coats they usually will melt into a smooth surface. An exception might be a matte glaze which you might need to be more careful when brushing. If you have enough glaze it is easier to thin the glaze a little and pour it inside and then out immediately for an even coat.
I have another video on brushing medium, which is already added to the commercial glazes, that goes over how to brush glaze without streaks.
th-cam.com/video/LLXt6vbkOJc/w-d-xo.html
Allow your pieces to dry before firing and GOOD LUCK!
@@richardmccoll9297 Thank you so much!!
@@madebysannah3046 Thank you!
What happens to glazed Greenware fired to bisque?
Hi,
The Glaze sinters and gets hard but does not melt into the glaze. It is possible, if you mistakenly glaze greenware, to bisque it and then fire it in a glaze firing where it will come out fine.