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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2015
- Rear driven pulley bearing replacement for many scooters, ATVs, and more with CVT transmissions. The same techniques can apply to other applications as well. For some scooters, especially those with the common 139QMB powerplant, I would advise checking the price of new bearings vs a new pulley. I have seen complete rear clutch and pulley combos for sale for those cheaper than the cost of both bearings in some cases.
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Puller used in this video (affiliate link) : amzn.to/2XK1JhB
For help removing/disassembling the rear pulley :
• Scooter CVT Transmissi...
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#ScooterDIY #BearingReplacement #BearingInstall - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thanks, your video was very informative. I had no idea how i was to get my bearing out of my mini bike, now i know what i can use.
Perfect explanation and work. Thanks mate.
Tks for a detailed explanation. Very precise and easy to understand..
Very helpful. Thanks
Great video with amazing details.
this video is the s***t!!! simple, straight forward, dude thx a bunch!!!!!
That's a good, concise but clear demo.
Thank you very much.
Not having a bearing puller, this one little job is one that I have paid a pro mech to do a couple of times on my 2015 PCX 150 (a scooter whose clutch bearings are its weak point). Everything else is done by me.
Seeing this, and knowing that I will keep the PCX until the end of its serviceable life, I will see if I can get a bearing puller suitable for the PCX (not a whole set, just the main part and PCX-sized expanding part).
Honda does not sell its CVT-clutch-assembly as a set, meaning PCX owners have to do this (or have it done) not only every CVT overhaul, but once or twice in between overhauls becuase, as mentioned above, these are the PCX's weak point.
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I was stupid forgot my password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Deangelo Kasen instablaster :)
@Brodie Maximiliano I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process now.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
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Thanks so much you saved my account :D
@Deangelo Kasen Glad I could help xD
Explained very well
hello:
my cvt transmission no speed! the pulley no move!!! what is the problem?
thank you for your cooperation.
2 Points of inquiry:
1- Why not protect the threads of the Pulley base by threading the nut back onto it? (In addition to the woodblock)
2 Why do you wait for the assembly to cool before introducing the circlip/snapring back into it to secure the bearing?
I figure there are legit reasons why the particular steps are what they are and would like to better understand the thought process behind the mechanical method.
BTW- You have been very helpful with a few of my projects and I would like to thank you for these videos. I am certain that you have been under-appreciated, though I doubt if "appreciation" itself is what motivates you to post these. It is nice to know that there is this caliber of material out there to assist one if, and most importantly, when one needs competent instruction. There's a recurring segment in, or a host's position on, a DYI show somewhere for you, IMHO.
1- The threads didn't start at the end of the shaft in this case. Kinda figured it would put less stress on threads if they didn't have force applied.
2-It's difficult for me to do delicate procedures with gloves on that will protect me from the heat and it hurts like hell without the gloves. lol
Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad if these videos help people.
Thanx for the reply. Makes perfect sense. I am a novice, and am preparing to do a BBK and am curious if there might be something important to know about the process that might get glossed over, yet is important to success of the project. My build is a 49cc to 100cc(82cc) upgrade on a scooter with about 1000 miles to date. Variator kit, clutch springs, ignition coil and CDI, and jets for the carb are installed, but haven't started on the teardown of the motor, but the cam, head and cylinder are ready to go. Exhaust will be next. Any advice I should have before I go further into this? Thanx again!
Check this out, quite a bit of detail : www.49ccscoot.com/bbk.html
Spend some time on the tune when it's done. There's some tuning info here as well as some other bits that may be useful : www.49ccscoot.com/faq/faq.html
Kill look pull polloi
90gt vert iz da bomb! I don't own a 2 stroke but still.
Thanks dear
Thanks dear.....
Very good
Hi,
Thank you very much for showing us you technique .
I have made a mistake by turning the niddle bearing upside down.
The righting part is inside and the none righting part is out side.
Does it matters?
Your advice is highly appreciated.
Shouldn't matter.
Hi thank you for the video.
I have question, the original seize of the needle bearing is 25*32*14 , can I put needle bearing 25*32*16? I have space for that it's ok?
I can buy allso 25*32*12 but I can't find the original seize
nice work
Thanks.
Nice work. I would like to see the worn bearing wobble. And play before you replace like on the counter shaft bearings and these. Thank you bill
Hello. What kind of grease can i use over that part, lithium, o molibdenum?. Regards.
+Cransaft Valve I go with a wheel bearing / general purpose synthetic grease.
+sEa90GեձWx gqxsTVertցցո h u1 fyyyեեե ղըցվվզ ղֆր
This is very helpful. Problem is, don't have the tool to take out the needle bearing. Am probably just go to a auto repair shop hopefully they could help me out. Thanks and more power :)
+Gemini 0557 That's why I was hoping they would rent the puller from Autozone or someplace like that or tool rental in general of sorts.
Hi, thanks for the video! Is it safe if we are not removing one seal from innermost bearing? Most of people usually removing it and applying the grease on the ball
I usually just get sealed bearings and use them as-is. If you want to inspect and replace the grease, that's fine too.
Any idea where I can get CVT cover bushings for a 139qmb??? I even bought a new cover thinking they came with, I was wrong!!
Go to PartsForScooters and look at their diagrams for the 139QMB.
By the end of the video I see smoke coming out of the pulley after you used the heat gun. It's due to the burning oil or some seals?
Probably oil/residue. If the seals are smoking it's way too hot.
Great video! I noticed in the comments you have placed a 17x25x18 needle bearing. But what kinda bearing is the sealed one and this is the same size right? Thanks in advance from a Newbie
Look at the seal on the top bearing. It will probably have numbers that tell you the bearing code for the size.
@@49ccscoot Thank you, will do!
That`s easy! Just squeeze the legs in on the puller. This way, they will rest closer in on the pulley, closer to the hub.
nice work man thank you
I have a cvt issue that I think may be related to these bearings..
My cvt recently started making an odd noise. I can only hear it when I accelerate, and it sounds like whining. It almost sounds like straight cut gears, getting louder and higher pitched the faster I go.
I pulled my clutch and found the needle bearing had some back and forth play. My driven pulley is also very out of round, and my clutch bell surface is glazed over.
Is this noise a culmination of many things? Is it worth simply replacing the entire clutch and pulley unit?
It's not unusual for a CVT to make some noise even when operating properly.
Glazing on the clutch bell is usually not a big deal. I normally use brake parts cleaner and emery cloth to deglaze those. The bearing can be replaced, but if the pulley is out of round you probably aren't going to fix that without replacement. If there's no noticeable vibration, the out of round may be acceptable. Sometimes the things come brand new and don't run true.
@@49ccscoot I did change my drive belt prior to the noise. Could the extra friction from the fresh rubber be responsible? It is very loud, I have a yasuni r exhaust and I can hear the transmission over the sound of it.
@@pedshed5132 If you changed the drive belt and it started after, then it does sound like it could be the belt or something that changed during installation.
great tutorial as always man, can you share what kind of grease i should use while i'm doing this?
I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease for most stuff. Doesn't have to be that brand, but general purpose synthetic grease works well.
@@49ccscoot thank you, trully appreciated it 👍🏻
8:32, so that's a sealed bearing? I spent months sourcing the correct grease for the roller and needle bearings.
Yeah, that one is. I use general purpose/wheel bearing grease in the needle bearings.
i have a 150 tao tao it get shit mpg 13 miles and its on e with a 1.4 gallon tank it doesent leak it has a lot of power and goes 55 mph it has 100 miles on it do u have any suggestions
First thought is, are you sure the fuel gauge is accurate? If you go to fill it up does it actually take roughly a gallon to fill it back up after just those 13 miles?
Ben Lusignea lol u so triggered commenting on comments that r overva year old lmao loser
Ben Lusignea umm your mom is lol
Can be use ngli 3 Grease? Or all purpose grease 3? Or only ngli2 or ep 2 grease?
I'd imagine you could use it. I've never tried and NLGI 3 grease that I recall. The Mobil 1 synthetic grease that I usually use is NLGI 2.
@@49ccscoot thanks mate trying to get ngli 2 here but unable that's why...
@@dnwar6398 Odd. That's the most common multipurpose grease here. I think I would try a 1 before a 3. I did a quick search and one site recommended 3 for very high RPM only, way beyond what this application would see. That's about the best guess from me. You'll have to google to go beyond that. Sorry, but good luck with it.
@@49ccscoot thanks! Appreciate it :) I'll try buying online.
By chance do you remember the name of the bearing puller kit in this video?
amzn.to/2XK1JhB (affiliate link)
Ok thank you for the link
any suggestions on how to get the rear wheel bearings off a 150cc bike. I was only able to regrease one side of each bearing so far.
Mine just has axle bearings, not rear wheel bearings. Nothing I'd grease. See if this is of any use : th-cam.com/video/MxIW7Pj_NEI/w-d-xo.html
Gotcha. My 150 has the same thing. I've never had to do it, as it doesn't have tons of miles and they still work well. I don't service those, only replace, but it's not a bad idea to service them. I can't remember exactly how the setup is, but I'd either use a blind hole bearing puller or possibly drive them out from the opposite side. Blind hole pullers can use slide hammers or more traditional jawed pullers to get them out. Install can be made a little easier if the bearing is cooled and the housing is heated. I either stick the bearings in a freezer or use freeze spray and I use a heat gun to get whatever I'm installing a bearing into up to around 250F if you can measure it (infrared thermometer). Just gotta wear heat-resistant gloves, like welding gloves. It doesn't always make a job easy, but should make it easier anyway. Press or drive them in, applying pressure/force to the outer ring. Try not to apply force to the inner ring or any other part of the bearing or you may damage it.
Any ideas how long they last? Mine were pretty dry but still turn nicely was only able to redo one side of each so far. Would a socket work to get them out? I dont have all those pullers and tools you mention. Just standard tools.
A socket could work; thick wall (impact) style is nice if possible. Longevity varies. I basically just replace them when they need it (feel rough/gritty, make noise, etc...).
What size jog 50 torque drive bearing?
I've never owned or worked on a genuine Jog 50. You should be able to find a number on the bearing though. Google that and you may find replacements. Otherwise, I measure them. Outside diameter and thickness are pretty self explanatory. Inside diameter is a little more tricky with a needle roller bearing, but the easy way is to measure the shaft that interacts with the bearing. The outside diameter of the shaft there should match the inside diameter of the bearing.
hello congratulations on the job, may I know which seeger pliers you used? thank you
Those were Blue Point, but you can get stuff that works on amazon and plenty of places.
@@49ccscoot hello, thanks for the reply, could you send me some links of some economic pliers like these blue points that you recommended? thanks again
@@francescomereu682 Sure. These are a little different design, but they should cover most tasks. I have a pair of the ones with different heads that you can change, but sometimes they feel flimsy so I think these or similar would be the better budget choice.
amzn.to/3bVOQLQ
@@49ccscoot thanks for the answer but you tell me that they no longer have these pliers can I know what size these pliers must have? I was interested in removing the seeger from the minarelli corrector
@@49ccscoot to insert it on the minarelli corrector you would need very thin pliers
What is the simptoms of bad clutch bearing?
You could get wobble or play, you may notice that it's hard to turn or noisy or feels gritty/rough.
Bhai aisa supper kaam out side india me he ho sakta hai india ke mechanic sab non technical hai
6:13 What Size that Snap Plier ?? 7 inch or 9 inch ???
7" Blue Point
What are the part #s, sizes of the bearings?
Depends what pulley you're working on. If you look at the bearings, they should have numbers on them. If you've got something aftermarket, like Malossi, they sell bearing kits for their pulleys.
Thanks,
One other question,
I bought a 2010 Sunny 50CC scooter QMB139 where the owner said had no spark. I found the stator to be part of the issue where i was not getting any output AC from red/black wire.. Ordered a new 8 coil 2 wire plug/2 single wire. I installed it and now output is around 55VAC.
The issue is with the pickup coil. The new Stator came with it and im only able to get roughly 0.117VAC and not able to move it lower for any better than a gap of .029"
when i installed it, I got spark and put everything back together then found had no spark again. I loosened the bolts slightly and let the pickup coil hang to where it dropped probably 1mm and spark came back.
At this point i have pulled the flywheel and took measurements
Inner = 90mm
outter = 110mm w/reluctor 109mm w/out
hole = 44mm
So im seeing that the gap is to large and confuse why sine it seems like the right flywheel
I did notice on some parts stores that the sell a flywheel that the only difference is outter Dia which = 111.6mm or another sit said 112mm being 1.6mm bigger roughly
Any help would be great
Thanks,
One other question,
I bought a 2010 Sunny 50CC scooter QMB139 where the owner said had no spark. I found the stator to be part of the issue where i was not getting any output AC from red/black wire.. Ordered a new 8 coil 2 wire plug/2 single wire. I installed it and now output is around 55VAC.
The issue is with the pickup coil. The new Stator came with it and im only able to get roughly 0.117VAC and not able to move it lower for any better than a gap of .029"
when i installed it, I got spark and put everything back together then found had no spark again. I loosened the bolts slightly and let the pickup coil hang to where it dropped probably 1mm and spark came back.
At this point i have pulled the flywheel and took measurements
Inner = 90mm
outter = 110mm w/reluctor 109mm w/out
hole = 44mm
So im seeing that the gap is to large and confuse why sine it seems like the right flywheel
I did notice on some parts stores that the sell a flywheel that the only difference is outter Dia which = 111.6mm being 1.6mm bigger
Any help would be great
Can't open up the holes on the pickup just enough to get a little less gap? That would be the first thing I'd try after seeing that it worked when closer.
how do i know that the bearing is worn out?
You should be able to see/feel/hear it with inspection.
my scooter make a noisy sound when it get a little fast. what is the reason .. by the way do you have a Facebook account ?
No, when the clutch is locked up (at speed) the clutch bell and axle assembly are turning at the same speed and the bearing does not come into play.
Can i buy the pulley bearing online?
I bought mine online. Malossi sells a kit for their OR pulley. Otherwise, either read the number on the bearing and google that or you can take measurements if that doesn't work.
Is it possible to break out the brake pad change out of this video and into a dedicated video this is the 2nd time I've come searching for this specific video
Brake pad change???
@@49ccscoot I don't remember if it was the final drive bearing replacement... When I find the segment I'll let ya know... I think it was done very well. Sorry for the confusion
What is the # for this bearing plz
There are more pics and measurements and different part #s for the bearings here :
49ccscoot.proboards.com/post/156362/thread
The numbers of the bearings. Thank :)
Boy Santiago It measured 17x25x18mm, so I did a bit of searching. I found a bearing
from Honda in that size, part # 9110-GR1-003. I also found a Kawasaki
bearing in that size, part # 92046-4001. I went with the Honda bearing. I
knew that others I have used were NTN, although I expected either Kawi
or Honda bearings to be of decent quality anyway. I got two of them for
$28.31 shipped from partzilla.
Thank you.
@@49ccscoot
Just a heads-up in case anyone seeing this is thinking of doing as you/he did - finding parts of the same spec intended for other bikes.
Honda's bearings (made by NTN) Pt # 91001-kcw-003 / Pt # 91002-kvy-901 to fit the 2015 PCX are a weak point on the PCX.
I don't have that such bearing puller. :(
They can be found at reasonable prices. None of my pullers were super expensive.
@49ccScoot yo
It took you too long to insert the needle bearing in, you had just 1 sec to hammer it in; after that it heated up and expanded,the other part cooled down and shrunk.
edit good video,shows everything in there,thanks.
It happens. Real world sometimes things just don't go perfect. Sometimes the interference fit is off. Sometimes you may need more heat. I just don't like to push high temps when bearings are involved. Also, I normally wouldn't explain what I was doing if I wasn't trying to make a video. lol
my car nissan micra 16v
Sorry, but I don't really know much about automotive CVTs. They're quite different than scooter CVTs.
D A M M !!!..a puller? just hammer the damm bearing out; use a drift,a bolt,etc; put a socket on the other side....or am i not seeing straight?
You are not seeing straight as there is another bearing on the other end which can not be removed until you remove the roller bearing and then also remove the snap ring on the other bearing. The small I.D. of that other bearing will prevent you from getting a drift in there to pound out the other one.
@@OverlandOne Got it,thanks
Hi i am have identical problem, bad quality, made in Indonesia, nothing Japan famous quality
thanks for the great video. I was wondering if I could use your help... Im getting similar noise from the clutch of my Symphony 200... I was wondering if its possible that the bearing are just stuck due to grease, and if washing all grease out with carb cleaner, and then regreasing, could make them perform well again... of is this a dead end and the parts must be replaced... here is a video showing the problem... thanks for your help!
th-cam.com/video/-5aqRrFV2io/w-d-xo.html
Start by taking off the belt. See if you get that noise when you spin the pulley. Could be in the gearbox. Either way, I don't think you're going to be just regreasing. At least bearing replacement would be my guess. Hopefully no worse than that.
@@49ccscoot thanks! With the belt off, spinning the pulley by hand I can hear a grinding noise. If I take the entire clutch out and just spin the rear wheel, there is no bad sound, so I assume the gear is fine? I was only wondering what happens if I wash all grease out of the pulley, can the bearing "release" itself to a normal working condition?
@@cs20m You can try to clean it all out then check and regrease, but that sounds pretty nasty. Not really much to lose by giving it a shot though.
49ccScoot where can i buy the bearings?
viberate rear pulley because that bearing🤔
Yes, a bad bearing could cause vibration.
@@49ccscoot tqvm sir.. i will replace that bearing.. vibration happened in middle speed.. tq again