Need to come back and watch this every so often. 7 years ago it came to me ,unreal. Only regret is not being able to have it 30 years ago :( Every time I pick it up it feels amazing and new. I can never thank you enough for making this.
Thanks. I use an electrochemical etch to put runes, lettering, or whatever on the blades. I make a stencil with vinyl film which is stuck onto the blade in the appropriate location and then mask off the rest of the blade with tape. A small power source to supply voltage, a bit of clean salt water, and a cottonball are all it takes to etch the steel.
Thanks. The blade is normalized after grinding or forging to remove stresses from the steel and refine grain size. Then the blade is heated (~ 1500f) and quenched to make it hard. Then it's tempered (~ 500f) to remove some hardness and make it flexible. When heated to normalization or quench temperature (processes that will occur in the making of any blade) the crystalline structure is disolved and re-grown. There is no internal difference between stock removal and forged after the heat treat.
@Rulox999 Thanks! Very cool to hear you've been inspired to start sculpting! The image on the blade is etched. I drew up the design on the computer (it's a stylized rendering of the customer's name in Russian) and then had it cut in vinyl at a local sign shop. I then pulled out the sections of vinyl I wanted etched and applied the rest of the vinyl to the blade creating a mask. I then electrochemicaly etched the image into the blade.
Thanks. You can make a very nice blade from stock removal provided you start with a good piece of steel and have a way to do a proper heat treatment when your done. Also, you can forge from a piece of round or bar stock rather than from a bloom or raw steel. Once you have all the grinding down, distal taper, and cross-sectional geometries, it's pretty easy to step into forging if you want to. It's more fun than stock removal though the end product is the same.
god i wish i had your talent . So far i've seen 3 of your vids and i'm in love with all 3 swords. And those guards and pommels , OMG dude, the amount of details on those is insane .
Thanks. I learned to make sword blades through reading and research. I learned to sculpt by just doing it. I learned much of the bronze process by working in a foundry for several years and doing further research and reading into the subject. Join an online forum that deals with whatever you want to learn. They are a wealth of information. There are also a lot of local blacksmith associations around. My website is listed at the end of the video right before the credits start.
@SsjSned I don't know what a salt forge is. The furnace for melting the bronze is propane fueled as is the preheat for the shells. yes the ceramic molds (shells) are heated before the bronze is poured, otherwise the bronze would chill in spots and not flow well. The furnace and the preheat/dewax is made from kaowool held in place with a thin sheet of steel formed into a cylinder. The heat treat oven is made from the parts of three old ceramic kilns with new coils, temp switch, and pyrometer.
Thanks glad you like it. Metal work of most any kind is cool. I post occasionally on the SBG sword forum but don't get into any online social networks, it's hard enough to find the time to post here ;)
I generally quench in used automatic transmission fluid for this steel. Normalizing removes the stresses built up in the steel from forging or uneven heating during stock removal.
Heat treatment encompasses the normalization process (heating to a high temp to reduce the stresses in the steel), then heating and rapidly cooling (quench) which hardens the steel, and finally tempering (heating to a much lower temperature to relieve some of the strain of hardening to make the blade resilient and flexible).
@SsjSned The heat from the preheat would ruin the temper of the steel. You can make the tang a consistent, tapering curve so that it would slide into a curved slot in the bronze. Or cast the bronze in parts and weld it together on the blade. A bronze grip is too heavy anyway.
@TheNativesamurai This particular sword was made from 1075 steel. I use a few different types. I do sell them, this particular sword would take a couple months to make and would be about $2700. This sword is on the heavy side for a usable sword but otherwise it is fully functional. Well balanced and sharp with a hardened and tempered blade.
Thank you. This particular sword was a commissioned piece so it was sold before I made it. It wouldn't be fair to the client to disclose his cost for the sword but if I were to make another one, it would likely be about $2900.
@xxwes997xx Through a process called patination. The patina artificially ages the bronze, a variety of effects and colors are possible. I do a lot of different patinas on my bronze sculptures but stick to the more basic, subdued tones for the sword fittings.
The wax is burned out of the ceramic shells when they are finished. The bronze is poured into emplty shells after the wax is removed. I have a vid up describing the lost wax process.
Hi Jeffrey, this is ... simply ..awesome! Extraordinary, very unique. Beautiful sword,a piece of art and craftmanship. Very well done. Respect for your work., Best, Erik
Sweet! Looks awesome. I though it was from an Antagonist in the story or something. Like a sword that belonged to Conan's evil twin. But no it's all your design. That is just awesome. (That would be awesome if Conan had an evil twin that he had to fight against, this would be his sword)
I made the heat treat kiln with the parts from three broken ceramic kilns and a few hundred dollars of new parts.There is a write up on it on the old SBG forum but I can't post the link here.
Yes, you need a lot of different materials to do all these things. It's possible to start small with one step at a time instead of doing everything. Your English is pretty good. Thanks.
Lord Minty The tang is 3/4 inch wide and 1/4 inch thick. Any wider than 3/4 and it becomes too wide to fit inside a wood grip. Many swords have a tapered tang that starts out close to 3/4, narrowing to around 1/2 partway down and ending at about 1/4 for the final peen at the end of the pommel. Lighter or smaller swords may start out closer to 1/2 inch. Tang width varies with blade type, so there isn't really a "typical" size.
Thanks. I used imagery in the design that I thought would make sense for a civilization that could have been around before a flood or other catastrophy destroyed them.
would u be so kind to make a video explaning how your high temp salt forge works and is built? im very interested in learning about it how its used and heated etc thanks and ur craftsmanship is amazing
Espetacular, não me canso de ver esse vídeo seu, não resisti e tive que dar print da cabeça da guarda pra usar como foto de perfil. Estou aprendendo a fazer facas só pra um dia conseguir fazer alguma coisa parecida com essa maravilha aí.
Thanks for responding after watching the video and I was quite clear, it is a pity that it is quite difficult to have all the material you use or that is my impression :), forgive my English and encourage you, keep doing videos are very interesting ^ ^
man i never get tired of watching your videos youve inspired me to start sculpting for later one day turn my creations into swords i love your work im a big fan of yours! how do you do that image on the blade? is that hand made!? keep it up man!
@nokomisforge Ah, you're just around the corner from me, I'm off Webber. I have only recently started doing any forging so have not looked into FABA yet.
Hi, love your work! I have two questions: 1-I thought quenching came first and normalizing came after, to "un-fragilize" the steel caused by quenching (which I believe is done at higher temperatures, right?). But in your video you show normalization BEFORE the quenching... 2-Is it true that if the steel is heated to a high enough temperature, there is no difference in the molecular structure of the steel between stock removal and forged? Cheers and once more, brilliant work!
Hello I admire your work, I manufactured my own chain mail but I surpass by far, I have a question molds are made of wax if I'm right, do not really understand the step where you make the ceramic coating, the wax remains in and on contact with hot metal melts or the process is otherwise?
just wondering but could you pour bronze over a blade incased inside the mold/ gated tree? like on a curved blade where u couldnt slip the bronze on after? guess ud hav the prob of a heat treated blade 1st then a normalizing b/c of the hot bronze or a annelled blade with bronze that u couldnt thouroughly harden b/c the bronze would melt. maybe just edge tempering witrh a torch then would be the way to go?
hello, i discovered your vids with the father sword some years ago, i was impressed at the time, i see with your other vids that you are a true master, i have a question and i hope you will have time to answer, how do you engrave the blade with inscriptions ?
It was an exprimental piece that wasn't super pretty. I have some pics of it but it isn't nice enough to go on the site. I gave it away to a fellow who bought one of my other swords.
A couple questions What kind of steel is it? and do you sell them? if so how much do you sell them for? how functional are your beautiful works of art?
I´ve follow your videos and I can begin to express how much do you inspire me. It´s been long since i wanted to learn any kind of blacksmithing, metal molding or casting, where did you learned to do this? Could you give me any tips to begin? Amazing work do you have a website? -Leo
This is my favorite sword of all time. You are awesome! I accidentally watched all of your vids in one sitting. Would you be interested in making a vid on how to make the Scabbards.
Muito bom, excelente...Uma maravilhosa arte...estou em projeto de fazer uma, já fiz 2 diferentes mas está eu ainda projetarei em breve, até a música é linda e envolvente. Obrigado pela oportunidade.
Need to come back and watch this every so often. 7 years ago it came to me ,unreal. Only regret is not being able to have it 30 years ago :( Every time I pick it up it feels amazing and new. I can never thank you enough for making this.
Glad to hear you're still enjoying it. One day I hope to have time to make one for myself too :)
All thy works, and I see wonderful works of art
Thank you
Going back through some old vids, ur work is outstanding and always brings a smile to my face
That sword's "Bad-Assedness" is off the chart! As well as being a work of art! You got skills, my friend!
Thanks very much.
but is it`s "bad-assedness" over 9000? That is the real question.
Tonar Silverwolf
I'd venture to say yes. But, 9000 . . . of what?
Your detail work on the wax and the detail on the bronze is stunning. Beautiful work and clearly the work of an amazing artist.
Thank you very much.
You my friend are an incredible craftsman of the highest calibre! Absolutely Love your attention to detail..FANTASTIC!!!!
Your work will outlive you for centuries.
Note: Music was very relaxing. Thumbs up on both counts.
Beautiful music. And your swords . . . just masterpiece . . .
My god that is a beautiful piece brother I am consistently astonished at your sculpting skill,
Your work is the ducks nuts. A well refined talent, well done.
Thanks very much.
You are an artist. Thank You for sharing the whole process with us.
Thanks. I use an electrochemical etch to put runes, lettering, or whatever on the blades. I make a stencil with vinyl film which is stuck onto the blade in the appropriate location and then mask off the rest of the blade with tape. A small power source to supply voltage, a bit of clean salt water, and a cottonball are all it takes to etch the steel.
You make the most beautiful blades I've ever seen
Thank you
Thanks. The blade is normalized after grinding or forging to remove stresses from the steel and refine grain size. Then the blade is heated (~ 1500f) and quenched to make it hard. Then it's tempered (~ 500f) to remove some hardness and make it flexible. When heated to normalization or quench temperature (processes that will occur in the making of any blade) the crystalline structure is disolved and re-grown. There is no internal difference between stock removal and forged after the heat treat.
@Rulox999 Thanks! Very cool to hear you've been inspired to start sculpting!
The image on the blade is etched. I drew up the design on the computer (it's a stylized rendering of the customer's name in Russian) and then had it cut in vinyl at a local sign shop. I then pulled out the sections of vinyl I wanted etched and applied the rest of the vinyl to the blade creating a mask. I then electrochemicaly etched the image into the blade.
Thanks. You can make a very nice blade from stock removal provided you start with a good piece of steel and have a way to do a proper heat treatment when your done. Also, you can forge from a piece of round or bar stock rather than from a bloom or raw steel. Once you have all the grinding down, distal taper, and cross-sectional geometries, it's pretty easy to step into forging if you want to. It's more fun than stock removal though the end product is the same.
god i wish i had your talent . So far i've seen 3 of your vids and i'm in love with all 3 swords. And those guards and pommels , OMG dude, the amount of details on those is insane .
Thank you very much.
What kind of troll gives art like this a dislike.
Haters gonna hate, no worries.
Thanks. I learned to make sword blades through reading and research. I learned to sculpt by just doing it. I learned much of the bronze process by working in a foundry for several years and doing further research and reading into the subject. Join an online forum that deals with whatever you want to learn. They are a wealth of information. There are also a lot of local blacksmith associations around. My website is listed at the end of the video right before the credits start.
@SsjSned I don't know what a salt forge is. The furnace for melting the bronze is propane fueled as is the preheat for the shells. yes the ceramic molds (shells) are heated before the bronze is poured, otherwise the bronze would chill in spots and not flow well. The furnace and the preheat/dewax is made from kaowool held in place with a thin sheet of steel formed into a cylinder. The heat treat oven is made from the parts of three old ceramic kilns with new coils, temp switch, and pyrometer.
Thanks glad you like it. Metal work of most any kind is cool. I post occasionally on the SBG sword forum but don't get into any online social networks, it's hard enough to find the time to post here ;)
I generally quench in used automatic transmission fluid for this steel. Normalizing removes the stresses built up in the steel from forging or uneven heating during stock removal.
Heat treatment encompasses the normalization process (heating to a high temp to reduce the stresses in the steel), then heating and rapidly cooling (quench) which hardens the steel, and finally tempering (heating to a much lower temperature to relieve some of the strain of hardening to make the blade resilient and flexible).
@SsjSned The heat from the preheat would ruin the temper of the steel. You can make the tang a consistent, tapering curve so that it would slide into a curved slot in the bronze. Or cast the bronze in parts and weld it together on the blade. A bronze grip is too heavy anyway.
@TheNativesamurai This particular sword was made from 1075 steel. I use a few different types. I do sell them, this particular sword would take a couple months to make and would be about $2700. This sword is on the heavy side for a usable sword but otherwise it is fully functional. Well balanced and sharp with a hardened and tempered blade.
You are very good at this, I like that, I love that, it takes hard work to do this.
Thank you
brotherbanzai hi,i realy like you work and i wonders if you make them for sale pls answer by here
sorry for my englis
ataulfo vazquez anell Yes I make swords for sale. Go to the website shown at the end of the video and also listed in the video description.
Thank you. This particular sword was a commissioned piece so it was sold before I made it. It wouldn't be fair to the client to disclose his cost for the sword but if I were to make another one, it would likely be about $2900.
@xxwes997xx Through a process called patination. The patina artificially ages the bronze, a variety of effects and colors are possible. I do a lot of different patinas on my bronze sculptures but stick to the more basic, subdued tones for the sword fittings.
Yes, I made one like that for the Atlantean I did. Takes a bit of engineering to get a usable suspension point.
You're a helluva sword maker man! Beautiful piece!
Thank you very much!
The wax is burned out of the ceramic shells when they are finished. The bronze is poured into emplty shells after the wax is removed. I have a vid up describing the lost wax process.
You can say that again. Pure poetry!
@JCReive Thanks, glad you like it.
Hi Jeffrey, this is ... simply ..awesome! Extraordinary, very unique. Beautiful sword,a piece of art and craftmanship. Very well done. Respect for your work., Best, Erik
Thank you very much Erik.
You are a superb artist my friend
Thank you very much.
Love You high Quality Swords! Thank You for posting!
Thank you and you're welcome!
Sweet! Looks awesome. I though it was from an Antagonist in the story or something. Like a sword that belonged to Conan's evil twin. But no it's all your design. That is just awesome. (That would be awesome if Conan had an evil twin that he had to fight against, this would be his sword)
Thanks. Both. This particular one I designed to be reminiscent of the Conan Atlantean sword.
I made the heat treat kiln with the parts from three broken ceramic kilns and a few hundred dollars of new parts.There is a write up on it on the old SBG forum but I can't post the link here.
most bad ass sword on the planet! love it! Love Anduril but Conan's sword is another lvl
Thanks
@roargathor Thanks a lot ! This one is quite heavy, weighing in at 7 pounds.
Thank you, and you're welcome.
Yes, you need a lot of different materials to do all these things. It's possible to start small with one step at a time instead of doing everything. Your English is pretty good. Thanks.
the first video i saw of yours was the father sword one. i was 9. i love your work :)
+Dapstart Animations Thank you
Great work! Love the sword. You have some real talent. Keep up the good work!
RedRum Alpha Thank you.
brotherbanzai Hello! So I was wondering what is the width of this sword's tang? And how wide should the typical tang be?
Lord Minty The tang is 3/4 inch wide and 1/4 inch thick. Any wider than 3/4 and it becomes too wide to fit inside a wood grip. Many swords have a tapered tang that starts out close to 3/4, narrowing to around 1/2 partway down and ending at about 1/4 for the final peen at the end of the pommel. Lighter or smaller swords may start out closer to 1/2 inch. Tang width varies with blade type, so there isn't really a "typical" size.
brotherbanzai Thank you so much!!
Thanks. I used imagery in the design that I thought would make sense for a civilization that could have been around before a flood or other catastrophy destroyed them.
I'm partial to the long sword, but I like a lot of different types.
My God that's magnificent
would u be so kind to make a video explaning how your high temp salt forge works and is built? im very interested in learning about it how its used and heated etc thanks and ur craftsmanship is amazing
@nokomisforge Thanks, I'm in Sarasota Fl. If you happen to be in Nokomis FL., you're just half an hour south of me!
a lot of work looks good too
sou um grande FÃ do seu trabalho e um grande artista.
congrats you have great skills nice job love that sword
Thanks
@pyrea17 Thanks, vids are a bit slow coming as they take a lot of time away from me actually working but there will be more for sure :)
Espetacular, não me canso de ver esse vídeo seu, não resisti e tive que dar print da cabeça da guarda pra usar como foto de perfil. Estou aprendendo a fazer facas só pra um dia conseguir fazer alguma coisa parecida com essa maravilha aí.
Obrigado. Estou feliz por ter gostado.
Where have you seen that avatar before BB? I use it on the SBG forums :)
@SpartanHoodlum1 Thank you very much.
I'm pleased you like it.
Thank you, yes I do.
Brilliant work!
Thank you.
Thanks for responding after watching the video and I was quite clear, it is a pity that it is quite difficult to have all the material you use or that is my impression :), forgive my English and encourage you, keep doing videos are very interesting ^ ^
@gameplaysforyou I have, I just don't happen to have videos of them :D
this is amazing man. i want one
Excellent work
@brotherbanzai oh thats just plain awesome
Wau.... Im-pre-sio-nan-te... Hermosa Tarea...
Gracias
man i never get tired of watching your videos youve inspired me to start sculpting for later one day turn my creations into swords i love your work im a big fan of yours!
how do you do that image on the blade? is that hand made!? keep it up man!
Amazing! Thank you for sharing
Thank you
Linda espada sempre quis ter uma dessas
One for the client who ordered it and one for the next guy. Also allows for a spare in the off chance something were to go wrong with one piece.
Incredible craftsmanship, love your stuff.
Do you actually design the blades/details yourself or do clients come to you with specific designs?
Thank you. I want one too. The only two I made were sold :(
@nokomisforge Ah, you're just around the corner from me, I'm off Webber. I have only recently started doing any forging so have not looked into FABA yet.
i love your work
If I understand you correctly, you are asking the cost in euros? About 2300 euro.
Thanks, yep, it's quite a lot of work.
Hi, love your work! I have two questions: 1-I thought quenching came first and normalizing came after, to "un-fragilize" the steel caused by quenching (which I believe is done at higher temperatures, right?). But in your video you show normalization BEFORE the quenching... 2-Is it true that if the steel is heated to a high enough temperature, there is no difference in the molecular structure of the steel between stock removal and forged?
Cheers and once more, brilliant work!
Hello I admire your work, I manufactured my own chain mail but I surpass by far, I have a question molds are made of wax if I'm right, do not really understand the step where you make the ceramic coating, the wax remains in and on contact with hot metal melts or the process is otherwise?
Thanks, though I do like the original version as well.
Rest easy, it is.
just wondering but could you pour bronze over a blade incased inside the mold/ gated tree? like on a curved blade where u couldnt slip the bronze on after? guess ud hav the prob of a heat treated blade 1st then a normalizing b/c of the hot bronze or a annelled blade with bronze that u couldnt thouroughly harden b/c the bronze would melt. maybe just edge tempering witrh a torch then would be the way to go?
it's a sword form the online video game Runescape. (bare in mind the one he was asking for is 8 foot tall)
hello, i discovered your vids with the father sword some years ago, i was impressed at the time, i see with your other vids that you are a true master, i have a question and i hope you will have time to answer, how do you engrave the blade with inscriptions ?
It was an exprimental piece that wasn't super pretty. I have some pics of it but it isn't nice enough to go on the site. I gave it away to a fellow who bought one of my other swords.
Thanks. A few months.
That is beautiful!
+JE NX Thank you
A couple questions What kind of steel is it? and do you sell them? if so how much do you sell them for? how functional are your beautiful works of art?
I´ve follow your videos and I can begin to express how much do you inspire me. It´s been long since i wanted to learn any kind of blacksmithing, metal molding or casting, where did you learned to do this? Could you give me any tips to begin? Amazing work do you have a website?
-Leo
Thanks.
I believe it is called a crucible (correct me if im wrong) ans I would think that it is made of cast Iron.
hello mr. robinson, I'm just dropping you a line to say that my daughter and I are huge fans and to keep up the good work ^_^
Thanks, glad you both enjoy my work :)
Is the "heat treatment" were you heat it up very quickly and cool it down really quickly, over and over, and does it make it stronger?
Hey Jeffrey, what kind of set up are you using for your heat treat, is that a custom build, or something industrial quality you bought
Thanks
Do you make your own crucible? If so how and if not where can I get one? Beautiful work thank you so much for sharing your talent.
Devin Gray No, I bought the crucible. You can get one here - www.morganmms.com/products/crucibles
You have the artistic skill of Kit Rae. :)
This is my favorite sword of all time. You are awesome! I accidentally watched all of your vids in one sitting. Would you be interested in making a vid on how to make the Scabbards.
Thanks. Go to this guys webpage: www.yeoldegaffers.com/project_scabbard.asp
He has some good instructions on building scabbards.
cool thanks
Muito bom, excelente...Uma maravilhosa arte...estou em projeto de fazer uma, já fiz 2 diferentes mas está eu ainda projetarei em breve, até a música é linda e envolvente. Obrigado pela oportunidade.
Obrigado ans boa sorte com o seu projeto.
how to you get the bronze from the white silver color to the golden brown color with so much shading and activity?
Thank you .