Just bought one Nigel, £75 including delivery and your code, tks. I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS but I wanted a bigger needle and to be able to swap them out is great. I liked the comment about Trigger's broom, I could have bought several of these Gaahleri brushes for the amount I've paid in Iwata spares over the years, Gaahleris spare parts prices are much more reasonable which is what tipped me to buying it.
Great review Nigel was hoping you would review a Gaahleri airbrush and glad you are impressed. Jason has reviewed this airbrush and others in the Gaahleri range and I know he is impressed. I have the Ghad 39 and Ghad 68 trigger airbrush which is really great to use. I also own the bartsharp that you reviewed and find the Gaahleri just slightly edges the bartsharp. All the best
I’ve been using Gaahleri 98D and their Mobius airbrushes since January and can’t fault them, they work perfectly form me and lay down a beautiful paint finish every time. 😁👍
Hello Nige. I've got a couple of Gaahleri airbrushes and they are well made and well priced and much better than the cheapy I started with. I also have a H&S Evolution (more expensive, must be better right? All the gear, no idea!) But as a relatively inexperienced airbrush user I've struggled when spraying water-based acrylics - especially primer. I've experienced splattering and spluttering and bad tip drying with all of them - and I've tried all sorts of thinners and different mix ratios and air pressures. I recently saw a review and recommendation from a TH-camr of a My Hobby Procon Boy, with arcylic use specifically mentioned. I've bought one and just started using it and I have to say that so far it has been really impressive. It's the Procon Boy WA 289 Platinum v2 with a 0.3 needle, and cost me £113 from Amazon.
Basically Phil, water based primers arent really worth using in my opinion, particularly the ones with polyeurethane in them. They don't key to the plastic like the lacquer primers do. Great for figures or AFV's where you may not need to sand and blend, but I find they lift and peel rather than feather. As for airbrushing with water based paints, I find a flow improver is required, for example, Vallejo is a nightmare, until you add airbrush flow improver then it sprays just like anything else. I'm not really sure how the design can be more appropriate for acrylics or solvents?? Needle/nozzle size will play a part.
@@NigelsModellingBench Yes I'm not sure why it seems to work better - perhaps the atomisation. Stynylrez seems to stick ok, but agreed - I don't like any of the other water-based primers I've tried. I have just bought UMP and Pro Acryl primers, so will be trialling them soon. I've moved to all water-based acrylic because I've had to move the workbench into the house from an outside building and the lacquer smell is too strong for everyone else. Before that I was using Mr Surfacer & MRCLT for priming and it was great. I've also got some Mr Hobby Aqueous Primer to try - the smell of alcohol-based thinners and cleaners might just be acceptable. For the water-based stuff I'm using a thinner mix of 70% flow improver/30% thinner to which I then add 10% retarder.
Interestingly, my 98D with the 0.5 needle nozzle also struggled with neat gloss VMS varnish. Comparing0.5 nozzle diameters with my Badger 105, Creos 266, Neo4Iwata TRN2 , the 98D appears a tad smaller in diameter, and the GHAD 39 is on the small side as well. Mixing the VMS with Ultimate Thinner 50/50 rescued the situation. There were absolutely no issues using neat Johnsons Pledge ( Kleer that was). I would`nt, however, use the 98D`s version of a 0.5 with Stynylrez Primer as advise is not to thin it........ ?
I’m the same Nige I have always put the needle from the back never had any issues . I’m keen to look at the gaahleri airbrush I’m actually due for another one my Iwata needs a break
I've got a couple of their 39's which are great airbrushes for £28. I'm not so keen on the removable paint cups, feels uneccessary and like you say just makes cleaning more awkward. My favourite brushes are my Iwata HP-CS's as they are so quick to clean and also use drop in nozzles, but the 39 sprays really nice for the money. The reason why I always remove the needle forward, is that the paint that's left on the needle can build up against the needle packing whe you pull it out. Why contaminate part of the brush with paint that doesn't usually have paint in? Easy enough to take it out the front.
Good comment Darrell. I have to disagree with your point regarding the paint on the seal though.. the seal is there to stop the paint flowing back, so the paint is on the seal from the second you fill the cup. My Iwata is around 13 years old, always has the needle pulled back and still has the original seal in place.
@@NigelsModellingBenchI thought the primary purpose of the needle bearing seal is to support the needle, although it does also prevent paint from moving rearward I wasn't sure if it gets covered in paint or not, but I suppose it must. I do clean this area out when cleaning my brush after every session. I've changed the bearing seal on brushes when they got to around 20 years old just because I thought it was about time to replace them, but I can't remember the condition of them. Anyway maybe it was always mentioned to pull the needle forward as maybe if there is any little bits of dried painted on the needle they might actually cause some wear on the bearing seal as you pull it through.
The "bearing" is called a packing seal generally, and can be closed up by tightening the fitting that holds it in. As I say, the seal in my Iwata is around 13 yrs old and still going strong. I'm not proud to admit I have dragged the needle back through with dried on paint on a number of occasions lol.
@@NigelsModellingBench it depends on the company - I started out with Badger, so I tend to call it a needle bearing seal, though many brushes do use an o-ring packing, which like you say have to be adjusted correctly by getting the right tension on the needle.
I have the Iwata Neo TRN1 and the Iwata plus CM-C. While the Gaahleri look very good value for money and highly praised by both Jason and yourself, I can't justify a 3rd airbrush. If I was in the market though I would defiantly look at these because of the reviews.
Nice Review, I have the GHAD-39 and Mobius 0.3, the GHAC-98D looks to sit nicely between the two so may be worth an investment as an Early christmas present. I've always found it difficult to clean the VMS clear coats out of the air-brush with standard thinners and Airbrush cleaner. What would you recommend
Interesting airbrush Nigel. Looked on their web site. The price for this including delivery is $101.99. Which equates to just under £79. But on Amazon the price is £96.99, but there is a 10% off voucher which brings the price down to £87.29. Also on Amazon there is a GHAD-39 airbrush which looks nearly as good. The price for that one is £44.99. But, again there is a 10% off voucher, which brings the price down to £40.49. Now, I know that this company has sent loads of free airbrushes to lots of TH-cam modelling channels for review. Is that a good thing? I am not sure. I currently have 3 airbrushes. My H&S Evo, Bartsharp 186 and that very cheap airbrush that you reviewed awhile back. I am not sure if its worth me investing in a 4th airbrush. But, then again, the design of the nozzles look interesting.
Good bit of research there Andrew. Not sure the 39 is in the same ballpark though? I would definitly say, compared to the other cheaper airbrushes I have, this one is better, both in design and quality. These days we are blessed with the very competitive world of airbrush manufacture, so the overall winners are us, with all the companies trying to outdo each other both in features and price. I'm looking forward to testing the -68 as that weill be my first trigger airbrush. I was awre that Fengda had sent out samples, I was offered some, but I didnt get an offer from Gaahleri, I contacted them about their brilliant spray booth..
@@NigelsModellingBench Looking at the specs on their web site. The only difference I can see between the cheaper 39 model and the more expensive 98 model, is the 98 model has the mirror finish in the paint cup. Both have the same design needles and nozzles, and both have 0.35 & 0.5 needles. Plus bizarrely, the 39 model comes with 2 different paint cups. Where as the 98 only comes with one. I know that Richie at RW Hobbies was sent some of these airbrushes to review. I don't think he was that impressed with it. He still prefers his Mr Hobby Proton Boy airbrush.
I have a question for you. I have a Fengda FE-183k and want to get some more needles. Do I have to buy the same make or will any airbrush needle make do?
I have just checked a Fengda needle and it is 1.2mm diameter, as are the Gaahleri needles. If the form on the front is the same, at the prices they charge, you may as well give it a go? I would imagine all the needles will be similar in form when going size for size, ie, 0.3 or 0.5? I saw some nozzles and needles on the Gaahleri site for $5!!
Yes Andy, thuis is correct, they also do cheap seal sets. It is also worth remembering the very cheap airbrushes available on Amazon? May be cheaper than buying a needle and nozzle?
Just bought one Nigel, £75 including delivery and your code, tks. I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS but I wanted a bigger needle and to be able to swap them out is great. I liked the comment about Trigger's broom, I could have bought several of these Gaahleri brushes for the amount I've paid in Iwata spares over the years, Gaahleris spare parts prices are much more reasonable which is what tipped me to buying it.
Thank you very much for your professional review of our products.
It's my pleasure
Nigel, thank you for a very informative and useful review. May well have to consider this as an upgrade to my current air brush.
There is a link in the description below the video and a code you can use for 10% off. Remember, there is free shipping over $80.
Great review Nigel was hoping you would review a Gaahleri airbrush and glad you are impressed. Jason has reviewed this airbrush and others in the Gaahleri range and I know he is impressed. I have the Ghad 39 and Ghad 68 trigger airbrush which is really great to use. I also own the bartsharp that you reviewed and find the Gaahleri just slightly edges the bartsharp. All the best
I would agree atm Chris. I have the -68 to trial next.
@@NigelsModellingBench That's great I am looking forward to seeing you review it Nigel. All the best
Pair this with a Ps- 270 procon boy and you can do all kind of stuff from priming to very fine detailing.
You will love it Nige
I think you're right Jason?
Harder and Steenbeck Infinity 2024 if I had the resources…. This one is way more in my price range!!
Nigel I have their "Swallowtail" trigger airbrush it's very good tool
I’ve been using Gaahleri 98D and their Mobius airbrushes since January and can’t fault them, they work perfectly form me and lay down a beautiful paint finish every time. 😁👍
Hello Nige. I've got a couple of Gaahleri airbrushes and they are well made and well priced and much better than the cheapy I started with. I also have a H&S Evolution (more expensive, must be better right? All the gear, no idea!) But as a relatively inexperienced airbrush user I've struggled when spraying water-based acrylics - especially primer. I've experienced splattering and spluttering and bad tip drying with all of them - and I've tried all sorts of thinners and different mix ratios and air pressures. I recently saw a review and recommendation from a TH-camr of a My Hobby Procon Boy, with arcylic use specifically mentioned. I've bought one and just started using it and I have to say that so far it has been really impressive. It's the Procon Boy WA 289 Platinum v2 with a 0.3 needle, and cost me £113 from Amazon.
Basically Phil, water based primers arent really worth using in my opinion, particularly the ones with polyeurethane in them. They don't key to the plastic like the lacquer primers do. Great for figures or AFV's where you may not need to sand and blend, but I find they lift and peel rather than feather. As for airbrushing with water based paints, I find a flow improver is required, for example, Vallejo is a nightmare, until you add airbrush flow improver then it sprays just like anything else. I'm not really sure how the design can be more appropriate for acrylics or solvents?? Needle/nozzle size will play a part.
@@NigelsModellingBench Yes I'm not sure why it seems to work better - perhaps the atomisation. Stynylrez seems to stick ok, but agreed - I don't like any of the other water-based primers I've tried. I have just bought UMP and Pro Acryl primers, so will be trialling them soon. I've moved to all water-based acrylic because I've had to move the workbench into the house from an outside building and the lacquer smell is too strong for everyone else. Before that I was using Mr Surfacer & MRCLT for priming and it was great. I've also got some Mr Hobby Aqueous Primer to try - the smell of alcohol-based thinners and cleaners might just be acceptable.
For the water-based stuff I'm using a thinner mix of 70% flow improver/30% thinner to which I then add 10% retarder.
I'm afraid, AFAIK, the UMP stuff is basically Stylinrez? It does work well, but it thickens over time. Apparently it can be thinned with X20A?
Interestingly, my 98D with the 0.5 needle nozzle also struggled with neat gloss VMS varnish. Comparing0.5 nozzle diameters with my Badger 105, Creos 266, Neo4Iwata TRN2 , the 98D appears a tad smaller in diameter, and the GHAD 39 is on the small side as well.
Mixing the VMS with Ultimate Thinner 50/50 rescued the situation.
There were absolutely no issues using neat Johnsons Pledge ( Kleer that was).
I would`nt, however, use the 98D`s version of a 0.5 with Stynylrez Primer as advise is not to thin it........ ?
I’m the same Nige I have always put the needle from the back never had any issues .
I’m keen to look at the gaahleri airbrush I’m actually due for another one my Iwata needs a break
Yeah, so many myths on airbrushes in my opinion. Dont forget to use the NMB code for 10% off and the link to the site tells them I sent you..
@@NigelsModellingBench yep I will ,going to order now Nige I’m impressed with this brush
I've got a couple of their 39's which are great airbrushes for £28. I'm not so keen on the removable paint cups, feels uneccessary and like you say just makes cleaning more awkward. My favourite brushes are my Iwata HP-CS's as they are so quick to clean and also use drop in nozzles, but the 39 sprays really nice for the money.
The reason why I always remove the needle forward, is that the paint that's left on the needle can build up against the needle packing whe you pull it out. Why contaminate part of the brush with paint that doesn't usually have paint in? Easy enough to take it out the front.
Good comment Darrell. I have to disagree with your point regarding the paint on the seal though.. the seal is there to stop the paint flowing back, so the paint is on the seal from the second you fill the cup. My Iwata is around 13 years old, always has the needle pulled back and still has the original seal in place.
@@NigelsModellingBenchI thought the primary purpose of the needle bearing seal is to support the needle, although it does also prevent paint from moving rearward I wasn't sure if it gets covered in paint or not, but I suppose it must. I do clean this area out when cleaning my brush after every session. I've changed the bearing seal on brushes when they got to around 20 years old just because I thought it was about time to replace them, but I can't remember the condition of them.
Anyway maybe it was always mentioned to pull the needle forward as maybe if there is any little bits of dried painted on the needle they might actually cause some wear on the bearing seal as you pull it through.
The "bearing" is called a packing seal generally, and can be closed up by tightening the fitting that holds it in. As I say, the seal in my Iwata is around 13 yrs old and still going strong. I'm not proud to admit I have dragged the needle back through with dried on paint on a number of occasions lol.
@@NigelsModellingBench it depends on the company - I started out with Badger, so I tend to call it a needle bearing seal, though many brushes do use an o-ring packing, which like you say have to be adjusted correctly by getting the right tension on the needle.
I have the Iwata Neo TRN1 and the Iwata plus CM-C. While the Gaahleri look very good value for money and highly praised by both Jason and yourself, I can't justify a 3rd airbrush. If I was in the market though I would defiantly look at these because of the reviews.
Thank you Justyn
I've used some of the Vallejo acrylic gloss varnish and it is similarly thick to the VMS. Definitely a pain to spray.
But.. the VMS is sooo much better!!
@@NigelsModellingBench haha I'm sure it is! But I am a penny pincher and make myself suffer through consumables until I use them up.
I have two, they’re great
Double Barreled Airbrushing lol.
Nice Review, I have the GHAD-39 and Mobius 0.3, the GHAC-98D looks to sit nicely between the two so may be worth an investment as an Early christmas present.
I've always found it difficult to clean the VMS clear coats out of the air-brush with standard thinners and Airbrush cleaner. What would you recommend
I used Mr Hobby tool cleaner in my review today.
Interesting airbrush Nigel. Looked on their web site. The price for this including delivery is $101.99. Which equates to just under £79. But on Amazon the price is £96.99, but there is a 10% off voucher which brings the price down to £87.29. Also on Amazon there is a GHAD-39 airbrush which looks nearly as good. The price for that one is £44.99. But, again there is a 10% off voucher, which brings the price down to £40.49. Now, I know that this company has sent loads of free airbrushes to lots of TH-cam modelling channels for review. Is that a good thing? I am not sure. I currently have 3 airbrushes. My H&S Evo, Bartsharp 186 and that very cheap airbrush that you reviewed awhile back. I am not sure if its worth me investing in a 4th airbrush. But, then again, the design of the nozzles look interesting.
Good bit of research there Andrew. Not sure the 39 is in the same ballpark though? I would definitly say, compared to the other cheaper airbrushes I have, this one is better, both in design and quality. These days we are blessed with the very competitive world of airbrush manufacture, so the overall winners are us, with all the companies trying to outdo each other both in features and price. I'm looking forward to testing the -68 as that weill be my first trigger airbrush. I was awre that Fengda had sent out samples, I was offered some, but I didnt get an offer from Gaahleri, I contacted them about their brilliant spray booth..
@@NigelsModellingBench Looking at the specs on their web site. The only difference I can see between the cheaper 39 model and the more expensive 98 model, is the 98 model has the mirror finish in the paint cup. Both have the same design needles and nozzles, and both have 0.35 & 0.5 needles. Plus bizarrely, the 39 model comes with 2 different paint cups. Where as the 98 only comes with one. I know that Richie at RW Hobbies was sent some of these airbrushes to review. I don't think he was that impressed with it. He still prefers his Mr Hobby Proton Boy airbrush.
@@NigelsModellingBench Took a punt and ordered the cheaper 39 model. Will give it a go.
@@Andy.Gledhill.Models. did you use the NMB code for 10% off?
@@NigelsModellingBench Yes. It came to $49.19 altogether, which equates to just under £38. Its been shipped already.
Triggers Broom? - Nigel's Airbrush
I have a question for you. I have a Fengda FE-183k and want to get some more needles. Do I have to buy the same make or will any airbrush needle make do?
I have just checked a Fengda needle and it is 1.2mm diameter, as are the Gaahleri needles. If the form on the front is the same, at the prices they charge, you may as well give it a go? I would imagine all the needles will be similar in form when going size for size, ie, 0.3 or 0.5? I saw some nozzles and needles on the Gaahleri site for $5!!
If you are in the UK. Bartsharp sell some replacement generic needles pretty cheaply. They sell all sorts of airbrush spares etc.
Yes Andy, thuis is correct, they also do cheap seal sets. It is also worth remembering the very cheap airbrushes available on Amazon? May be cheaper than buying a needle and nozzle?