BSA A65 has new carbs and electronic ignition but won't run properly 2 Have I found something?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ต.ค. 2024
- Pitching in to investigate the reported reluctance to start and run properly, it appeared I may have found the cause of the troubles outlined in the first part of this challenging problem, but had I ?
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I'm writing this 2 months after this video was uploaded so you've probably fixed it by now. I had the same sort of problem with my BSA and after hours of trying to figure out what was causing the fault I changed the points condenser and the bike ran beautifully.
I always appreciate you sharing your process as you troubleshoot these issues. Can't wait for the next video. I'm confident you'll get to the bottom of it in time. Always enjoyable. Always educational. Thank you Paul.
I agree knowledge going back
Make sure the coils are connected in series. Vape ignition, very much like a Boyer. I did one a while ago very similar symptoms, they had connected the two coils in parallel. Keep on searching.
Cant wait for you to sort mine, Paul!
Mine starts and runs so nice- always 1st kick.
But im sure you will sort this baby out, once and for all..
Great T Shirt too!! 👌
Glad you update your progress wether good/bad or back to square one.
If this has only started after electronic stuff was fitted?
Also connections to the electronic black box, if there's a mistake in the connector/manufacture then it may start ok but do some odd stuff once it tries to auto advance.
One thing to try is to disconnect the stator wires temporarily and try to start it. If it runs fine then run the 2 stator wires going to the regulator separate of the wire harness. The ac voltage from the stator can cause interference with the electronic ignition.
Thanks Paul.
I would try a direct rewire through a set of points to eliminate any fault with the electronic unit. We know you'll work your way through it all methodically until you get there.
I think it's in the Mag
Hi Paul,
love the vids one day may be i'll get to own my own lightning or thunderbolt,
just a thought had a bonnie back in the eighties, rebuilt the engine from a box of bits also had an electronic ignition,
put it together fired straight up, but would also only fire on one i almost totalled it going around the block hoping it would come in on other side, but thats another story, crucs was somehow i manged to put the electronic plate either back to front i swear i took it off and turned it around and bing bang sweet from there on in, hope this helps may be , and keep on keeping it real mart Morgan from the smokey Dragon..CF15
Lovely looking bike and restoration job! I had in my shop once a four stroke scooter that would start and run when started cold, but after a very short while, it would die. Went through the usual spark and fuel checks, but still did the same. Turns out it was a valve clearance was effectively zero, so one or other valve could only seat when the engine was cold, when the engine warmed slightly, the clearance went to less than zero and the compression vanished when the valve could no longer seat. I think I discovered using a vacuum gauge. Right odd to see the gauge fall to zero for no apparent reason! In your case here being a twin I'd think it quite remarkable if my scooter scenario managed to happen. I know it's poor form, but perhaps a spritz of ether in a carb as the engine begins to die would expose a fuel vs spark problem?
Sounds silly, but check the fuel tap, I had a similar problem on a commando, fuel tap was only partly working, so when it stops and your scratching your head it fills the floats, run it a while and I dies again, worth a look
If it still had points and condenser I'd be looking at a faulty condenser. I wonder if the electronic ignition itself is faulty? Or, perhaps a bad winding in a coil. Not likely but as Mr. Holmes used to say, "When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must me the truth."
get shot of the in-line fuel filters (we never had them in the 60's) there is a definite air bubble in the right hand fuel line, fuel lines could do with being a bit longer i assume you have put your own fuel in fresh,check the internal fuel filter gauze on both fuel taps when unscrewed from fuel tank.However i would bet that the culprits are sticking float valve needles in carbs'. Give the needles a gentle rub with solvol autosol then a good swill with petrol.TICKLERS ARE NAMED BECAUSE YOU TICKLE THE CARBS UNTIL YOU FEEL YOUR FINGER GETTING COLD WITH PETROL.I passed my test april 1961 so i have had many non starters but not came across one that was running sweet after it passed through my hands.Electricity is the devils work and a black art rip the cubbins out and return it to standard.
Again, check new carb's are clear of any machining swarf. Try swapping the HT leads over to see if the missing follows the leads around, then at least you've pinned it down to ignition fault and not fuelling issue.
Is the timing spot on Paul? a strobe could determine, cheers!
Thank you for an update. It looks like this bike is nicely done other than obvious mistake with a ground. It looks like the next step is checking valve clearances and if they are good EL would be a main suspect. I also spotted your kicks indicate not to high compression of this engine for now? What is your feeling about it?
Are those in-line fuel filters restrictive?
Pity you can't try another electronic ignition system, in case it's faulty.
Valve timing off? My 1970 Lightning came with the cam gear marks offset 180 degrees (former owner got confused with all those marks)
Definitely ignition.......
Could the powder coating be stopping the engine earthing through the frame?.
I never noticed an earth lead from the engine to the frame.
stick some points on it!
absolutely!
The fuell tank cap leaves the air in?? Is it ckean???
Sounds like the valve timings wrong
is the ignition positive or negative earth and compatible with the battery earth ?
Run a compression test - it could be a valve leak causing the poping
He’d never have known that
@@frankiepitt9135 you think?
low float height ( yes fuel but not enough ) and wrong needle ( if you raise the needle or when you choke the carb does it run better or worse ? I do like these " who dunnits" or "what did it"s "
Note, Paul has found the solution and it wasnt ,,,,what I thought !
i killed the boyer unit on my lightning by pulling off a plug lead while it was running, I learned you can't do that with electronic ignition! it behaved much the same as yours after that. I wouldn't go back to a points setup unless you're a masochist, I fitted a pazon ignition (made here in NZ) and problem solved. Also those crimp connectors with the plastic are dodgy at the best of times, when fitting them it's better to take the plastic part off and biff it out then solder after crimping and cover the connector with heatshrink. This guy covers the subject pretty well
th-cam.com/video/HdP__nnG1XA/w-d-xo.html
Nothing masochist about points - it was a fried Pazon which had me pushing my own A65 up a steep hill in baking hot sunshine, after all!
Sounds over advanced
But it isn't ...
cover the earths and the bare metal with vaseline . . .maybe . .
maybe take a plug lead of so you know which side is not performing. try different coils. . .
i have this problem on my b25/b40 hybrid ,i have checked valve timing,got fantastic spark but stlii it pops bangs ect and seems fuel starvede
Sounds like the timming is out.
Sort of - take a look at the other videos in the playlist about this machine to see what I had to do to fix it!