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Is a dry pour concrete slab as good as wet? Pt1
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See part 2 here: th-cam.com/users/shortsRXG0DmDMIjM?feature=share
Not interested enough
Do the post cure compression test on each, then andfonly then, will you have something to talk about.
I want to see each slab wacked with a sledge hammer. Until then I'm not interested in watching part two
What the hell is this
Thanks 😊
Now take two cores each and share the compressive strength results in 28 days.
The least amount of water added to concrete will win every time. There is a reason we use plasticizers instead of water
It's not for trucks to drive on
Never mind the air entrainment suggested for slab on grade concrete....
@@jimbob8969 Yeah... plasticizers to induce an acceptable 8" slump... you still need air entrainment even with rapid set mix.
Its a foot traffic slab not a high rise. What point did you think you were making here HAHAHA
My father is a stone mason. Has been for decades. He said the biggest problem is that you now have no way to know if the bottom is getting any water. He said it’s like when you make cake mix. You don’t just keep adding wet ingredients to the top or the top is gonna get soggy and the bottom’s gonna stay dry. You’re likely gonna have a firm top but a crumbly bottom. No one’s saying you should experiment, but there’s a reason cement is thoroughly mixed. If it takes you 19 to fully mix a wet mixture (which is a long damn time in his eyes), imagine what NOT doing that is gonna lead to with your dry mix.
It’s getting water trust me 😂 the water runs right through it until it’s hardens.
We recently had to fill in he air vents on our foundation. First mistake was mixing one bag for a job he knew took two.
It takes about 90 seconds to mix.
Your bottom will get water it will wick water out of the ground and if you feel you haven’t had any rain there isn’t any there is. But you can mist the ground first, then as long as you keep misting the top it will cure all the way through. I have seen a dry poor 6 inch’s thick you could drive on.
@@lonewolftech trust you? Have you done any work with cement? That top layer is the only layer that is hardened I can guarantee that. That water soaks down but a certain point it stops and starts to dry applying water again will do nothing bc the top is already hard.
“Trust me” 😂😂😂😂 typing this from my couch, zero experience with cement 😂😂
*Structural integrity has left the chat*
Touche'
Lol❤
Make sure to come back and see the structural tests he does
Considering adding more water will worsen the comprehensive strenght of the concrete mixture, you need little amount of water for the hydration reaction to occur
But let us see the result video whether this is concrete proof or not 🧐
@@rylenstuffsv2 So we are supposed to make sure the slab neevr gets wet? Gotcha . That makes total sense right?
I dry poured a 12x12 slab for my little shop, 4 inches thick, was religious about watering and actually kept it wet under plastic for 3 days. Slab has no issues and doesn’t have a crack 3 years later. I used zero reinforcement.
Also worth noting, I live in the Deep South. Risk of hard freeze is minimal and I don’t run heavy equipment on it. That said, I have a 125 Gallon Aquaponics system on it and an ATV. It’s holding up perfect
How many bags of concrete do you have for your 12x12
Cutting corners is always faster. It’s the end result that suffers.
If I cut corners in my plumbing work You'd have a swimming pool in your basement 😅
@jerrydegennaro273 that sounds amazing!
When can you start?😂
@@jerrydegennaro273my washer taught me that takes less than a hour.
Aaaamen
It's just a walkway right? Why should it matter?
As a man who has been watching youtube shorts for 2 hours while sitting on the toilet, i have no idea what I'm talking about
🤦🏿Dang thought it was just me!
@@IceWallCowboy You've both been on the same toilet for two hours? And you just noticed it?? Dang Louise. Put yo phone down.
@fundeek a sick mind sees sick things!
Musta shat your brains out. Happens when you get older.
Two hours in the toilet!!!? Men!!!! You got to care more about your health, don't complain later about HEMORRHOIDS like it's Somebody else fault
I've done both. The dry-pour is great for little jobs like pavers, very light duty slabs, etc. However, mixing is the most reliable (and sturdy) because you know it's getting the correct moisture at all levels - especially if the thickness is higher.
I wouldnt trust a dry pour for anything. literally nothing.
For a dry pour, wouldn’t it be an advantage to wet the soil first. So the concrete can pull water from the bottom too. I think I would have also mist sprayed after first bag. Then added second.
No because then you create a hard shell at the bottom when most the moisture comes through the bottom
That will create layers. The concrete will peel like a an onion if you spray between bags. misting dont go deep
@@SitNSpinRecords it doesn’t however. It may seem logical but I assure you it doesn’t because I have done the dry technique and it works great. I’m 42 year old a maintenance supervisor that has worked for a concrete company for about 2 years in my 20’s and that’s were I learned it and have used it too many times to count. But your idea of spraying between bags works very well too. Actually better. Sorry if I misunderstood the first part. I started typing this and couldn’t go back to recheck what you wrote :p
No don't prewet!! you want the water to migrate down, not up!! Otherwise the bottom will actually start curing before watering is done.
Rule #1 is to forget everything you know about doing wet pours!! It's why most pro who try it mess it up! They think they know better and keep trying to "fix" the process!
@@professorg8383 I just watched a dry pour video where a side crumbled off while checking results, not even mixed, just dust, which makes me think spraying in-between bags would work best too.
Wet isn't faster bro, it's the right way that's important
I used to ask my soldiers: "how come there is never time to do it right, but there is always time to do it again?"
@@killdozer3464 That’s smart
@@killdozer3464fucking oath im using that one! 🫡
Why?
He got you to interact. That was the main goal
When you mix concrete properly with water it consolidates the mixture to be more dense, and it will definitely be stronger.
Duh.
Talk about a sand vs rock foundation.
Theres also bonding reaction that happens. If you look at concrere under a micrscope, when properly cured, the fibers spiderweb out and locks the cement in place. Its actually really interesting to see under a microscope. You dont get the same reaction in the fibers drysetting.
I dont work with concrete, but id be concerned about the interior still remaining mostlet powder
Water cement ratio determines strength. Not enough or too little water lowers the conrete strength. For bagged mixes, the instructions on the bag will give a measured amount of water for that bag which generally hits tje highest breaking point.
I truly don't understand why people resist innovation so much. I'm sure the company tested it a bunch before sending it to the market.
I just watched this video and don't know nothing about wet concrete but my opinion is that you follow the instructions thoroughly because the manufacturer engineers already did all the years of R & D in the product and after years of development they know what's best👌
Yeah, the wet mix might have taken you longer to pour, but once poured, leveled and smoothed, you were done. For your work shop, you clearly stated you had to return for several days after to add water to the surface of your slab. That time adds to the job as well. With the mixed concrete, you know that water has evenly saturated the concrete all the way through, once the top hardens on your dry poor, wetting it down a few days after doesn’t guarantee water will make it down to any unsaturated powder below the surface.
100% spot on. Also, constency matters during the pour. Want it stiffer if you're on a slope. I dont see the dry pour method working well at all on a steep driveway. At all.
The reason a dry pour works well with fence posts is that the ground surrounding it can transfer enough moisture from rain or watering to penetrate the three or four inches of concrete mix that incases the post. When you pour a sizable slab, the ability of ground moisture from rain saturation or watering, may not be enough to wick its way to the center of the slab.
@@johnensalaco5012I believe you to be rite sir
The reason you keep wetting slabs with the wet pour is to keep the top from hardening up first. Because then it makes it difficult to evaporate the water below the surface. The idea is to mist the top just enough to keep it from curing. You don't want to add too much or it will never cure because you are adding as much or more than being evaporated. This method helps the concrete cure more evenly. It can take years for concrete to cure fully sometimes.
I work in the cement industry in a laboratory. We test the compressive and flexural strengths, as well as the tensile adhesion of our cement products. I've never tested a prism from a 'dry pour' method. I imagine it's terrible but I'd love to try it and get some numbers.
Please do this. We would like to know the result.
@@malcymackay6155 Do you know what's in this bag of cement or what kind of product it is? I'm not sure what ratio of materials to use if I was to test it. We usually make premium cement products for DIY and Construction such as self levelling compounds or tile adhesives and such, but I have the means to make anything.
@@malcymackay6155sorry he got fired monday...
@@Nate-9797i think it’s a bag of Quikrete
Nice
The spraying takes at least 1.5 each subsequent spraying because want to soak the top, which has hardened. Said took 10 more sprays=15 min. + the initial 3 = 18.
Saved 1 min ONCE at the hose each time, but you arent accounting for 10 MORE DAYS OF IT ON YOUR TO-DO LIST, mindshare, etc. saved a min, extended project time by over a week.
So overall, the cost is more.
From my experience with many slabs of concrete the people who are objecting to this dry pour bullcrap are absolutely correct.
“Bite the rebar, I’m going in dry.”
yes daddy
-The flatwork foreman at 9 a.m on a Friday.
It weakens concrete if you put rebar in anything less than 5 inches, remesh maybe but not rebar in 3.5" of thickness
😂
Lmao
It’s faster in the long run. On a dry pour you’re gonna have to come back to it several times. The traditional way, you lay it and it does all the work for you.
Everyone just has to find ways to cut corners. Being absolutely thorough to a T is just not gonna happen anymore
@@lucascoxe1481 Doing things one way because “that’s how we’ve always done it” is a fallacy. If there’s a better way to do it you should absolutely do it that way.
You claim this, but he had to come back to it it took like 10 seconds each time. He poured this slab, misted a few times, it cured all the way through and he was able to jump on it with no issues.
@@nickdavis6027 if there is a BETTER way. Not a cut corners just to get it done and brain dump the project and go home and drink and relax way.
He’s just spraying it every time though. Mixing it is more physically demanding
Never did a slab but it sure works on fence posts
I feel better when I mix it and pour it in.
Just poke in the water and it's solid
I was told from inspector there is nothing wrong with dry pour as long as it’s not structural. If you are doing dry pour saturate the ground first, and go in layers-concrete, spray,concrete, spray etc.. top layer do as this guy did
Don't travel down to view the Titanic in this man's submersible.
😂😂
That’s right. The way to the titanic is but thru ME
I'm still baffled. When you put water on dirt, it all turns into mud. Derp
Fortunately this is 10 trillion less the risk & a chesp easy fix if it dont hold up. Stfu grunts. Bunch of 18$ an/hr mudders giving a shitt what a homeowner does.
😅
I wouldn't try dry-pouring a slab, but it works great for setting fence posts where I give zero shits about the resulting PSI strength.
What you said.
Indeed. I bought a house with a shed full of quick set concrete that was likely two years old. I used it for fence posts where gravel would have likely sufficed. I certainly would not have used it for anything else.
@@LifesLaboratory You are lucky it wasn't already set. That stuff sniffs out moisture.
Yurp! & You have more time to fine tune the posts.
Works great on sign poles of all sizes as well, lol
With a wet pour its all activated evenly. With a dry pour the top layer activates first and the concrete underneath takes longer.
To see which is faster you need to see which is totally solid first!
The water doesn't dry out as such, it bonds with the mix!
thanks for showing the result and verifying how the faster method turned out just as sturdy as the mix method.
and how you didn't have to spray it multiple times
Right? Most ridiculous “test” ever. Lmfao
What are the compressive strengths at 1,3,7,28 ... guess which one is going to last longer
That's why you never trust a man with an incel beard.
I think the issue is with how you're measuring the time. You're counting the time you're actively doing something, everyone else is counting the time until you don't have to do anything. The wet pour takes 30 minutes. The dry takes hours.
Yeah I think that means the commenters are measuring time wrong. Typically you don’t measure a job in the time it takes to not do anything.
@@AnarexicSumo Oh? So, when someone asks, "how long will it take to build the house?" You don't tell them the date the house should be done, but the number of hours of actual work it should take?
@AnarexicSumo "how long to drywall this room"?
"About 2 hours including finishing"
"So it'll be done today, right"?
"😅"
"So... it'll be done today... right..?"
Since it seems you have limited understanding of these jobs I'll explain, it'll only take about 30 minutes to hang it, then another 20-30 to mud, then you have to let it dry, typically giving it almost a full day, then come back to finish and touch up, let it dry again, come back and give it the final dust off on the 3rd day.
Look… cutting corners to get things done faster can cause shoddy work that can fail, or not last as long. Its better to take extra time to do the job right the first time to make your investment of time, money and effort not be wasted.
I would not want to have dry pockets of cement powder that stay that way under that sealed surface. Thats the big issue. If you are bent on using that dry pour method, consider really soaking in the ground and forms in the pour area first so that the cement can pull in that moisture and mist the surface frequently so that the water can seep in from the surface more too.
The wet lasts for ever... the dry two years.
There is what is called a slump test. It one of the the parameters it tests for is water content in the concrete. It's why concrete isn't poured dry on high rise and is mixed with water. Your dry mix may be faster, but when you add up how many times you have to replace that slab because it broke up, I think mixing with water will win out in the end
I like dry pour concrete because I don't have to mess up any buckets, wagons, totes, containers, etc. It's also quicker. When my sister and I needed to get a mailbox up, dry pour set in 30 minutes after a little portion of water. 🎉
Other than saving 19minutes by not doing it how engineers recommend? Whats the advantage.
-is it stronger?
-is it smoother?
-does it last longer than traditionally mixed concrete?
If you’re just going for “good enough” why don’t you just slap a rotten pallet down and build off of that?
I like to know that when I’m personally building something that I build it to the best of my ability’s . When I ever say “good enough” it’s time to stop and ask yourself is this honestly the best I can do or am I just trying to be lazy
The one you mixed will be dry and solid way before the dry pour. Thats how it is faster
No it won’t? 😂
You have way more water to purge.
@@richardsmith4293 The dry pour is still waiting on enough water to activate it. That mist he sprayed on top sure wasn’t enough.
@@itachisaskugotta wait for rain to come lolol
When it comes to concrete, do not cut corners. Do it the right way and it will outlive you
Just add blood!
It's how the Roman empire built the colleseum and amphitheater...
BLISSED!
The dry pour has zero strength 👈👎👎👎 no thing to do with TIME 👈🧚♂️
Speak to an engineer and he will explain it in simple , Terms !!! Leave Construction to Construction workers as Shortcuts means major Structural Failures 🎉
@@michaelfromMountainsyou talk weird
@@KhaledTheSaudiHawkII , you are a Weirdo 👈🧚♂️
For Gardening yeap, it will work, but for other purposes, it will crack.
19 minutes, and he was working FAST! Dry concrete in the middle is the problem.
I build a fence with dry concrete. Posts are leveled and straight in minutes. Tamped. Build fence in a day. Moisture in ground sets concrete. Done in a day
The dry pour is definitely faster but it unfortunately isn’t as strong and suffers from air holes making parts of the slab weak, this happens as the cement drys and is the reason for the wet mix being the more common method as this minimises it. Like most things in life the easy way usually isn’t the best way.
This is why limestone was used in roman concrete to be hit with water and degrade, then rebuild its bonds.
unless you weigh 2,000 pounds I'm pretty sure You're okay.
@@fizzinsoda being that you can’t see how many air holes there are it will most likely crack over time regardless of weight. But 2000 pounds will destroy either.
@@JOEJHNwrong. He drives over it repeatedly in another video.
@@rachelelabbady3399 then that is luck not strength unfortunately. I can fix plenty with duct tape. It doesn’t mean I should as it’s not reliable.
Just so you know, your dry pour is loose and powdery underneath. I do this for a living.😂
I wouldn’t brag about that. I can get a monkey to pour concrete.
Shoot, I did it a kid. Free labor for my dad. Well, not free. He fed, watered, and housed me.
@@HunterBidenscrackcan you get monkeys to design and pour concrete foundations for buildings? Footings for bridges? Reinforced concrete beams? It’s not at all easy, especially when you consider the effort put into designing and laying forms. Vertical components you need to get creative on. Crawl back to your hole at least this guy builds infrastructure that we all use. What do you do?
Hey forget about it.
They think that they know everything about everything
@@BobSmith-vx3knI think I could probably train a monkey to do that
I am a concrete man. The only thing I dry pour is fence post footings. I still add the amount of water it tells you on the bag. Then rod it. Wet pour with rebar is the best.
Don’t know why you got me scrolling down all these comments but the fact you acknowledge each one shows a very respectful, caring and humble person.
All the best my man much love
What he said .. and thanks for the step by step adding links to see all of it I've been thinking about a dry pour and like you everyone swears it won't work ... Thanks for making the decision easier for me ... I'll add rebar for longevity and threat the concrete when it's done 👍
@@edpenkalski8937Man ..just do it the right way or hire someone who actually knows what he's doing.
🤣true
I do see where this could be useful, something fast in front of a shed not a lot of weight on it or no structural concerns but should consider laying in 2" wet it good then 2 on top to make sure it all gets water.
@@chrisstockwell9235 Wouldn't it be easier to just wet it ALL first, pour it, and then leave it forever ?!
Ya know like , mix the cement as it's supposed to be done ?
Doing 2 inches at a time and having to "rinse and repeat" is the literal definition of RETARDING something.
Please keep doing this because people like you keep me in business lol
Concrete doesn’t dry, it cures.
🤣👌
@@Felkins concrete dries and cures. Paints also dries and cures...
Prety sure hes not doing this for business, clown 😂
Well I just watched the series and although slightly weaker when drilling and chipped slightly more when hit with the chipping hammer it still supported being drove over with an F-150
I did a dry pour of a 9” deep curb, 10” wide, for a small wall to stop critters from getting under a fence. Some areas the curb was only 5” deep x 10” wide.
I lightly sprayed both sections, waited an hour, heavy watered both sections, waited an hour, heavily watered with water finally standing on top. I wet alm curbing again and left it sit overnight.
The 5” deep curb was solid after removing batter boards. No issues.
The 9” deep concrete (Rapid set with fibers in the mix for strength) did not get uniformly set and I had pockets of dry concrete mix over the entire length.
Point is, you cannot guarantee the water will or channel its way through the mix, not penetrate deep or completely saturate the entire subsurface.
I would only do this again for post holes, maybe with wire, a 4” deep landing at the bottom of some deck stairs. Having to stay on the job site for three plus hours to keep adding water was included in the labor and then to not be sure how the water was traveling on its was throughout the dry concrete was too much work.
Ive done dry pour multiple times. Just depends on what your doing it for. If its nothing crazy, you got good dirt and its not structural you should be fine.
Fence post is the only dry pour I can imagine
@@kenburrell3825 that can work. A neat thing ive seen a few times is where people make walls out of concrete bags that they just pour water on. Its not the most structural thing ever but if thats not a problem the aesthetic is actually kinda nice. You can google some good examples.
My dad built a fence and poured dry concrete in the hole and sprayed it. The fence stayed there until we tore it down almost 20 years later. But when we pulled the posts up, they were separated from the concrete and the bottoms were basically clean. The 2 posts my brother poured where he actually mixed it were stuck solid. The dry method is probably great if you aren't putting any stress on your pads, but I wouldn't trust it to hammer an anvil on man. I hope it works out for you though bro
The only comment I read that sensibly explained how you came to your conclusion... Thank you lol
no that didnt happen
It only works on surface pours, nothing greater than 4 inches and you need a lot of water
@luigithekid bro what? I was there when he poured them and when we took them down
@rkizzle6126 yeah, we had like 2 feet of post hole that he filled with concrete iirc. I just remember him flooding it with water once and calling it good, but I was a kid then, so I mightve missed a step or two lol
Short answer: No. No it isn't.
Wrong!
@AZ-zn9lghe’s probably going to school to be a doctor.
@AZ-zn9lgFunny... Been dry pouring for every job for over three years now and have been doing it for 15+. Shocking, those slabs are still there with no cracks or breaks other than normal chips from tools etc over time. Never had an issue. Not once. 😂 idk what you thought you were doing with that comment but its not as big of a difference as your little brain thinks it is. For this job, it doesnt matter how you pour it. But it does matter how fast it dries.
@@Joker-11B-SYLV100% mixing is going to be a superior slab no questions.
@@Joker-11B-SYLVdamn pouring for 15+ you must be really close to all those people to keep checking on those dry pours to say no cracks or splits.
People seem to confuse curing with drying.
Drying concrete is a process of dehydration where curing concrete is a process of hydration. Concrete curing is the process by which the material develops to the full strength for its use. This process actually involves keeping the concrete within a range of relative humidity and temperature for proper development.
It’s just concrete folks… relax. The man is building a simple platform 💅🏼
If your way was better or preferred, rest assured that it would have been printed on the bag! If the strength of your concrete surpasses the factory methods, I would be extremely surprised. Faster is not always better!
Never followed a box meal directions?
Eh I’ve never met anyone who mixes fucking quickCrete for non structural products…. They always put it and satiate it with water and I’ve never seen it have any issues. Takes longer to dry but works just fine. There literary isn’t much difference…
Holy shit you can just read the bag for the objectively best method conceivable? Guess there’s no reason to pay a professional then.
Faster isn't always better, but it could be good enough depending on application (very limited & not load bearing or expecting decades of life out of the slab).
He’s not saying that dry is faster in regards to it should be the standard, just testing the theory to see which one would be actually stronger and time efficient.
You said in the original video that you sprayed it 10 times. Make sure you add that time into the equation. Then test the samples and see which slab is stronger, higher quality concrete. Factor that in as well.
Mixer is 75 dollars at harbor freight. Mixes two bags in 2 minutes or less. Pour and done
I've never done concrete but I'm thinking the dry. If you're using the mist setting which won't disturb how perfectly flat it is. The mist is not going to get several inches deep into that concrete to fully cure all that stuff into. Basically rock. It's going to have the top solidify on top of a bunch of powder is what I'm thinking the complaint is
Listen, I’ve tried both. And used both for different reasons. One time a client asked for “semi-removable”stepping stones in her pathway. So we did the dry concrete and sprayed water on top. This was strong on the top and sides for the most part, however the center was not as strong as the ones we had premixed. It came up easier than the ones we premixed too. I would assume that the top solidifies and dries before the center/bottom has a chance to get decently wet and stick to the other powder particles
What if you did a foundation of wet, and then added the dry mix to the top 1 inch layer?
I guess im asking, is there a way to combine both, that is suitable?
@@chrisallen9743 I think that's an excellent idea.
Concrete is porous and water will soak right through. The usual problem with partially mixed concrete, is that the powder is not weight bearing, the the set concrete will crack. If you leave the pad long enough it will eventually entirely harden. If you want to do your weird trick, use gravel, or sand, instead of uncured concrete.
As to the idea of powdered concrete on top of a foundation, why would you do this? The foundation is intended to protect the wood and other materials of your structure from the earth. To do this, it requires a secure connection wherever the two meet. Powdered concrete would interfere with that mechanical connection, imo.
back on the farm a lot of our steps were bags of cement that went hard.
Been pouring concrete for over 40 years. Now I find out I've been doing it wrong the whole time. These do it yourself homeowners are really smart.
Putting water on top is useless anyway
Idk why y’all think it’s a flex to pour concrete. It takes no skill, I wash doing that shit at 16. I guess someone has to do the dumb dumb work. 😂
Cool, you been doin it for forty years, awesome, arguements from authority hold no weight....... All it does is tell me you know how to follow, thats like my dad tellint me he can easily machine parts, ok cool machines can do that now so what use are you?
@themanwithnoname1839
It wasn't an argument. It was a statement, not from authority, from experience. Go back to the basement little boy . Maybe your father had something to teach you. Maybe not.
They are putting professionals out of a job. Doing it properly was just a way to earn more money
Wet is stronger, because the water causes the concrete to become solid. It literally becomes part of the concrete.
CONCRETE SETS UP 80% HARDER IF IT'S KEPT WET FOR DAYS. BOTTOM SIDES TOP SEALED. IT SETS BECAUSE OF A REACTION WHILE WET, NOT DRYING OUT. IT WILL SET UNDER WATER.
It'll never be the same as mixing it.
Concrete is supposed to dry from the inside out. Hence the cream on the top. Without that heat it won't be the same...
I've done dry pours on posts and when you pull them out they aren't even half as strong as if you did it correctly and you did it to a 4" slab. No bueno. Not at my house that I plan on having last my whole life.
Concrete doesn't dry. It sets. It needs water to set. More than a light spray.
Anecdotes are not facts
The hardest concrete can be found on boat ramps that cure underwater. Concrete undergoes a crystalline process when hardening, and must be wet. Many architects specify spreading burlap on a troweled slab and sprinklers kept running on it for at least two weeks.
Agreed
@SophiaAphrodite yes they are. They may not be empirical but prove to us how experience isn't factual. You can't.
dry pour is good for things like post hole maybe a rarely used slab..
You lose out on degrees of strength in dry vs wet.
I set about 25 4x4 fence posts dry. 3 days later, I took off the braces, and half of them moved. I had to clean up and start over. Cost me 3 days labor x2 guys. Never again.
Never use dry pack for post holes 👆🏽 😂
*unless its quikset
@@Michael-rg7mxsounds like a skill issue. Lol, you can do it for posts if you set the post right. Which clearly you didn't do
@@sozoxd3754 4q
I'm no cement expert but with how thoroughly you smoothed the top of the "dry pour" gently misting the top seems like it wouldn't allow the water to penetrate all the way through the slab to allow the firming agents to activate. Mixing the cement seems more tedious but it allows you to ensure that the mixture gets most or all of the firming agent activated and creates a solid foundation.
You conveniently left the literal hours of hosing down the dry pour that still remains lol😂
Large and small aggregate and sand should be completely covered with the portland cement paste to form a continuous matrix. Wet mixing is the best way of assuring this. BTW, concrete needs at least 21 to 28 day moist cure to reach optimal strength. Don't let it dry. Once set, keep it moist as long as you can.
I think the water will not pinitrat down far enough. So, the concrete slab will only be the very top layer. You can flip them over to check this out. The one you mixed the water will be solid.
It penetrates just fine. And is just as strong and good. Been dry pouring projects, all are easier and just as good.
Lol I dry poured a 4'x8'x6". Used gravel and rebar at the bottom/middle and mortar for a smooth screed. It turned out AMAZING!!
You are so right! Saving time is way more important then quality! 👌🏻🤦🏻♂️
I lay carpet and tiles down before the framing goes up. Saves cutting around things.
All jokes aside, they actually do that in modular and premanufactured homes…
Lol
Yeah, I've had to chisel back linoleum and subfloor to the edge of the wall plate for water damaged trailers.
Ha that was funny ha
@@tennesseewebb2651it's gross aye
It's just like leaving the concrete bag outside. When it rains, it gets wet and hardens.
Amen. These people just have no life and take out their anger on a guy doing his own thing. Id tell them to fk-off
Or building bridges with bags too, it lasts for decades and beyond!
@@pem...they use foam for those
When you get wet, I harden😚
Say it louder for all the concrete experts in the comments 👏 👍
I saw the pressure test on both of them and, wet is definitely better than dry. I thought about doing a dry pour but why not have the real strength of wet concrete.
Saw somebody else do a similar test but with different brands. Basically it came down to how fast the crete set up. The faster it set the less likely it was for the water to saturate the entire slab and the less likely you were to get a uniform cure.
Basically it worked great for something like a patio, but for anything serious it's better to follow the instructions.
If you do something, doesn't matter what it is.
Do it right, the first time so you won't have to come back and do it a 2nd.
I always say,if you're not going to do a job right, then there's no point in doing it all. 👍🏽
I am with you he honestly didn’t really do anything in his so called dry poor. I’ve poured concrete for just around 5 to 7 years now and I can tell you right now just by sprinkling a little bit of water on top isn’t going to make the concrete cure and do what it supposed to do so I can expect him to be redoing that concrete in about five or six months
agreed 👍
For fast cheap mixing,
Use a home depot bucket and a spade head drill with a paint mixing attachment.
If you think your drill is tough enough, you can do that on a low setting too.
Did it for years with fence and deck posts.
You forgot the multiple hours after the fact you having to keep wetting it all day 😂
Multiple hours?? Come on man, don’t be delusional!
wetting it takes how long???
Maybe 3 seconds!
Try and count, you literally see him wet it on the video!
Even if he wet it over 10 times it’s still less than a minute!
You got to use your head!
Your argument is INVALID!!
lol!!😆😆😆
It depends on what you need the slab for. If this is for a path, or to hold a landscaping feature it should work fine, but if you are consistently moving anything over a few hundred lbs on it the dry pour is going to crack way sooner than the wet mix.
I will do with mesh. Also if stronger edges needed do a wet poor for the border. After misting i think its important to give a good constant soak soon after. If several smaller soaks. the water wont soak in as well. Keep moist with smaller waterings. Add any lengths of scrap metals in the layer. Forks spoons. Whatever will add to integrity. I think. What do you think?
Dry set/pour works better when working on pitched areas, other than that, and fence post holes, it mainly just provides a lot more work time, and the ability to make a flat surface on a pitch.
I used dry pour on a concrete and flagstone patio in 1988. It's still there nice and solid. 😊👍
Im a building and welding inspector. Ive tested, casted and broken tens of thousands of concrete cores (cylinders). The dry way if perfectly fine for the applications here. Quick crete is literally designed to hydrate throughout with minimal mixing and minimal hydration. Because its mostly concrete fines and not much if any super hydrators (fly ash, porous aggregates, coarse sands, etc.) Thats why post hole concrete works. "Add post. Add dry bag. Add water. And enjoy".
Its cement hydration ratio is so low because its not meant to hold up a tower, for yard slabs its totally acceptable. Hence why there are no building codes for it as long as its a non structural or non post tensioned slab or load bearing.
Using add mixtures such as plastacizer, water reducer, transmission fluid (air). Has little to no effect because the average batching for concrete, is meant for large, structural and load bearing pours.
Thats why they use concrete trucks and pumps or conveyers, not 20 guys carrying 50lb bags of quickcrete. Cmon now guys, common sense here lol
Comparing the dry pour to the wet pour. Wet pour will last longer
I agree, do core checks and weight bearing tests. There is no way the dry pour is durable as the wet. Especially if you put wire mesh reinforced.
You forgot the part where it takes hours because you have to keep going back out every half hour to re-wet it. With the wet pour, it takes twenty minutes and the job is done. You can go shopping for some flannel jackets, new boots, a new shotgun, take your ol lady to a movie, go fishing with the fellas, go hunting with the kids. Hell my point is you don't have to sit there all day going back and forth every half hour to re-wet it. I live by a simple ol school motto "if it's not broke then don't fix it".
There's a lot of reasons why they make concrete the way they do. Hope you win the prize someday.
Different purposes = different requirements = different methods
@@bazoozoo1186lol bulshit! There's not different methods this is just do to lazy people.
Its a foot traffic slab not a high rise. What point did you think you were making here HAHAHA
@@bazoozoo1186always mix
Yeah the dry pour is a horrible idea for slab dry doesn't cook evenly and will cure unevenly causing strong and weak spots cracking is a assured. Also the core depending location may take ...or never see moisture leaving dry powder just cause it can be done definitely doesn't mean it should
Start to spray. The mixed concrete is actually all wet through the entire pour. The dry will take longer for it to entirely seep through and properly mix.
The wet pour takes less time cause once you set it it's over, dry pour you have to keep coming back and spraying the concrete ever so often, so your tied to it till finished. That time still counts ! Not just the mixing time .
What was the compressive strength from a cube test, and cost per m3?
I imagine that the conventional wet mix with appropriate aggregate and vibration would win.
You should be soaking the ground first. It will draw much of the needed moisture from the surrounding soil. This method works especially well in areas that get frequent rainfall. If you’re in an arid area, I would recommend a wet pour. Also, this is for a slab that won’t have heavy objects in it… like a picnic area or possibly a shed.
ahhhhhhh dang good point if u gonna dry it
No. Should be using a plastic membrane
@@101010Meaning I've tried both methods. Soaking the ground first works much better. Standing water will even get drawn in. But, to each his own.
The relative humidity in the area where this is done will affect the outcome considerably. I don't think this would have the same results in Arizona as someone in Alabama. Places where humidity exceeds 70% daily (tropical) will probably have the success as the ground is often damp.
Bags of quickset turned hard, without rain, under a tarp in 2 weeks in my backyard. Couldn't be broken with a hammer, so whatever is dry inside is safe at this point. Been walking on those "bags" for years now. Put them to use as stepping stones.
It’s a shop floor…. Anvils and pounding hammers….. worst place for a dry pour!
I have tried telling people that dry poor is better and gives a stronger concrete but they think they know better and they don’t know crap
Remember when doing wet concrete there are many different mixtures as to how fast you want it to set up also what you are using the concert for . The driveway mix is different from the sidewalk, patio, pool slab, garage floor for they are set for the weight that will be on it .
Concrete pad on wood mulch, thanks for testing that so I don't have to.
yes, lumpy mulch is the first wrong, aside from being to lazy to do it right.
The speed issue is in how long till it is usable IMO. The wet pour will have most of its strength by day 7. The dry pour will probably take nearly a month and probably won't get as strong permanently. I have never seen test data for it though. The quality will be hard to control too as you don't know how wet the inside gets. That makes testing it difficult
Correct. Also he is using yellow bag crete it's more for post cause it will harden with very little moisture but it won't cure as fast.
Don’t forget your cement to water ratio. Lol
@@frootlooper absolutely
*Mr. Beast.,* Do your thing.
@@SamuraiDuck735yep here in America we can say whatever we want and we the people decide what’s true to us or hopefully if you’re smart you research yourself. So yes. Thank god for free speech or we would have people like you trying to censor Ya damn democrat
Dry pour is good for setting posts in a hole or anything that doesn't need a good finish
No, the reason why the normal wave missing concrete is better is because when you pour it, you’re ensuring that the concrete is much more solid and can hold stronger structures the way you’re doing it is faster but also more dangerous because now I can’t hold more weight
A tip I use when setting post holes. I fill the hole about half full of water then pour quickcrete in the hole adding water every so often. Mix it by poking it with rod of some sort.
The dry pour might be initially quicker but don't forget to add the time it takes to go back and re wet it.
Literally 10 seconds. 😂
It's common sense
A proper wet mix is always going to be the best
You know it I'm your heart❤
Yep that’s why they call it hydraulic cement. Needs the mixing for duration
You’re my heart?! That’s crazy!
Why are you his heart?
Ghey?
@@nostradamus7648 😆😆I meant " you know it IN your heart "
@@kirkscobey3031Hydraulic cement is a little different from a chemical compound perspective. It can be used underwater or "in the wet".
You have to calculate future maintenance too, because you'll find in the long run the integrity of your finish is dependent on your start. Unfortunately there is a reason there is a universal common method for pouring concrete wet, it's because it's most efficient. As my physics professor once told my class, "if you spent half the effort doing it correctly as you do cheating and cutting corners, you would be the smartest students in the country." Point being, it seems as though your going out of your way to go against the grain and start a method that is really archaic to modern methods. I get that the first initial pour took 3 minutes. I saw in one of the previous videos when you broke one of your dry pours it was sandy as hell in the center which I've seen multiple times from dry pour. You said it was solid in the video and I was confused because my eyes saw unfinished concrete. I honestly don't care how you finish your concrete but I'm just saying there's a reason there's a method to it.
Time to the end of the "mist" spray for the dry concrete may be faster but you also have to include the wait time for the sprayed concrete to set so you can spray another couple of times. With the wet concrete method all the concrete is mixed with water initially and after pouring and leveling the concrete you're done. Mixing the concrete and water together at the beginning is much faster.
given you have either tool (auto mixer) or you have strong arms
setting concrete is a chemical reaction between the water and the concrete powder. the stronger concrete is created by extending the drying time, commonly by covering the concrete with a plastic sheet and leaving for a few days.
I pour concrete electrical duct banks for underground conduit runs and underground storm sewer junctions. I pour it and backfill over same day. Maybe let it set up for a couple hours but that's it. That concrete is hard has hell to demolish later on that's for sure.
If your concrete is taking 'a few days' to set, you have done something horribly wrong. You should be able to stand on your concrete within a few hours, it should be fully cured within 36 hours. Concrete is not stronger just because it takes longer to set, i can put calcium in my mix, pour it, and have it set in less than 2 hours, its still just as strong as a mix i put retarder in that takes 12 hours to set. Nothing you do to concrete will make it take a few days to set. If its not set after 12 hours, its not gonna set up.
@@camelholocaust5149 concrete does not "fully cure" in 36 hours lol. another confidently incorrect mouth breathing contractor.
the curing process never actually stops meaning the concrete will continually gain compressive strength. for most purposes though, it reaches its maximum effective strength in 28 days. not 36 hours lmao
source: civil engineer
Concrete doesn't dry, it cures. And yes, ensuring the concrete remains hydrated while curing will help increase the strength.
@@camelholocaust5149 Adding calcium chloride to your mix helps it cure faster, but at a much lower strength.
Take a hammer to both of these and see how they break. I bet the dry pour is more powdery and the mixed is more solid.that would be a good comparison video
Yeah its a fact... Dry pour is something lazy bums came up with. If you're doing work do it right especially when you plan on living there.
@@jamarjames9501 in my experience it doesn’t last as long but maybe that’s why people do it. I have done the dry pour for post holes but I don’t think it lasts long enuff for other projects.
Actually it is the same as the dry pour leeches water from the ground and is watered every hours for about 4 hours. No one who says this knows what the yare talking about.
@@SophiaAphroditeyou have to mix before pouring. cleaely no1 here has taken any school classes lmfao lole wtf.... you ever made dough??? you think HOW things are MIXED doesnt mayter just that eventually theres a bit of everytjing you neesed. what a clown world we live in jfcc
When people talk about core samples and strength, they are likely referring to the standard practice of taking core samples from concrete structures to test their compressive strength. In load-bearing or structural concrete elements, taking core samples is crucial to verify that the concrete meets the required strength standards and can safely support the intended loads.
However, for decorative purposes, the requirements for core strength might not be the same as for load-bearing structures. In decorative applications, the visual appeal and artistic elements may take precedence over the absolute strength of the concrete.
Are used to have subcontractors and we did this all day long for the federal government lightly spraying the top. He probably went back several times and lightly sprayed it to get it wet all the way through because in the long run that is not gonna hold up as a matter fact, anything that you’re using should have some sort of rebar in it, so it will hold together because the ground will shift with any weight
Imagine getting upset by a guy on TH-cam pouring concrete the wrong way.
Not upset. They just recognise that he's a smoothbrain
Imagine the TH-cam guy getting all bent out of shape by "angry" post on how to do it the right way, he doubles down and keeps going with the wrong way, trying to show everyone he got all knowlegde and makes another video..
It's called empathy. It's a foreign concept for a lot of personality-disordered people.
@@dispatch-indirect9206well you really can't feel other peoples pain!!
Imagine defending someone when they are clearly wrong couldnt be me
Dang, you should start a concrete company pouring powder foundations. Hacked the whole system lol
What does he do if it rains? 😂
He would have multiple lawsuits within 6 months 😂
@@chrisangus17256 hours let alone 6 months lmaoo
I built some ghetto retaining walls in the same spirit. Take entire bags of concrete and stack them up. Water them down and let rain do the rest. In a few weeks with nearly zero effort and no tools, you've got a workable structure. Probably not the best strength and certainly not professional. But it is simple and I don't care what the neighbors think. Good at ya! Work with what you have.
We have always done the dry concrete for years. Never had a problem. Dogs didn't care. Cats didn't care. Cows didn't care nor did the hens or ducks.
It's your place , as long as it worked and your happy
The American dream 🎉🎉
What about the sucker who has to buy his house? This generation is all about cutting corners to save time, instead of having a quality product.
With everyone's property tax doubling in the last 2 years, so true..............