Thank you very much for making this video, I have been trying to find a solution for almost a year with no luck for my GBA SP buttons not working. I think this is the only video on TH-cam that addresses this issue. This video is perfect, hopefully I can pull this off without ruining my AGS-101, thanks again.
Just getting into refurb, think I have a similar problem on my first SP I'm going to fix. I've never soldered before in my life but watching your videos I feel pretty confident.
Thanks a lot mate, my Ipod Classic 4's button did not work and I was about to give up fixing it (replacement parts are rare, these are 19 years old), saw your opening of the button and decide to open to clean it up, now the ipod is up and running again :3
Thank you, this was very helpful! Despite my poor soldering skills, by following this video I actually managed to restore a GBA SP I thought I had messed up while doing the IPS mod (I somehow accidentally knocked off a couple of the membranes). I ordered the button switches from AliExpress and replaced 5 of them. I decided not to replace the A button switch since this one was intact and I like how it's not clicking as loud as the others, because I often play Pokémon (a game that uses A a lot) while my wife sleeps next to me. I wonder if my logic makes sense or if I was just too high when I thought of this.
One last thing before I proceed to replace the 4 main buttons with my soldering hot air gun. Since 91% ISO flood on my switches destroyed them, what do I use to clean all the acidic flux off with? Thank you.
@@Hamstr_Games it's my understanding that there's a non-metallic "sticky" membrane w/in the layers of the button and ANY solvent flood will break that down and do what it did to my switches. In all likelihood a flood of 99% would probably just do it faster.
@@Hamstr_Games that's good to know. I'm just pointing out it's likely not corrosion from 10% H2O its more likely due to that original "tape" being destroyed by solvent. Point is, don't flood the membrane switches with any type of solvent unless you purposely want to destroy them and either repair them like you did or completely replace with new like I did.
@@Hamstr_Games I think it had everything to do with a solvent disintegrating the tape. Because rubbing alcohol whether 70 or 91 or 99% will render tape inoperable; therefore, rendering the membrane switches inoperable.
There are three types of switches that should work: ALPS SKRRABE010 7.5*7*0.6 switch (similar to original grey ones) ALPS SKRRAAE010 7.5*7*0.6 switch (similar to original grey ones) Tactile SMD Switch 4*4*0.8mm (golden ones) All are available on Aliexpress.
Hi, hab dein Video gestern verschlungen. Hab mal ne Frage, wenn man den Gummikopf von der Taste löst um die Metallkontakte zu reinigen, kann man dann im Nachgang auch ein Stück Tape anstatt des Kopfes benutzen? Frage deswegen weil ich Sorge habe, dass der Gummikopf nicht mehr klebt und ich dann was basteln müsste... Wenn dem so ist, was für ein Tape würde funktionieren ?
no-clean flux doesnt oxidize as much as normal flux but sometimes isnt as helpful. if normal flux gets underneath or isnt cleaned well will oxidize components iirc
I had flux get under one of the buttons, once. It caused the button to have a slight "sticky" or "squelchy" sensation when released after being pressed down for more than a moment. I had to redo that button. So you have to be careful to not get flux underneath the switches. I wouldn't ever add extra flux after that experience, but I've used rosin-core solder for replacing switches like this, no problem. I use the second technique he demonstrated, where I apply solder to pads first, then wipe any excess flux, then position the switch and remelt the applied solder to attach it. (Belated, but figured I'd answer in case someone else passing through saw this comment.)
Was wondering if you had any info on how the buttons work. I want to do a controller mod, wire in an external controller. At 7:28 you said the opposing pins should be shorted, which would be 1and 3 on the motherboard. Would 2 and 4 be shorted when you press the button? If so, im assuming either 2 or 4 would have power and the other side would ground it? Hopefully that what I said make sense.
With these switches, one side is pulled up to ~3.3v (a little bit less in reality). When the button is pressed it's shorted to ground, pulling the line low and the CPU recognizes this as the button being pressed. This is the same ground line that's shared with the entire console. Hope this helps
I just did a job 3 days ago of the same thing but I didn't get the new part so I just cleaned them and it worked but I think it's better new! Do you know what is the exact measure to buy aliexpress? Why would various measures help with that? with respect to the pushbutton?
Thank you very much for making this video, I have been trying to find a solution for almost a year with no luck for my GBA SP buttons not working. I think this is the only video on TH-cam that addresses this issue. This video is perfect, hopefully I can pull this off without ruining my AGS-101, thanks again.
Just getting into refurb, think I have a similar problem on my first SP I'm going to fix. I've never soldered before in my life but watching your videos I feel pretty confident.
Thanks a lot mate, my Ipod Classic 4's button did not work and I was about to give up fixing it (replacement parts are rare, these are 19 years old), saw your opening of the button and decide to open to clean it up, now the ipod is up and running again :3
Thank you, this was very helpful! Despite my poor soldering skills, by following this video I actually managed to restore a GBA SP I thought I had messed up while doing the IPS mod (I somehow accidentally knocked off a couple of the membranes). I ordered the button switches from AliExpress and replaced 5 of them. I decided not to replace the A button switch since this one was intact and I like how it's not clicking as loud as the others, because I often play Pokémon (a game that uses A a lot) while my wife sleeps next to me. I wonder if my logic makes sense or if I was just too high when I thought of this.
Before buying any new buttons try and re-solder the old buttons. Only saying this because it worked for me
Great video with details. Keep the good work
Thanks for the tips! Need to replace the dpad button switches on one of my own GBA SPs. Can I ask where you bought the new button switched from?
New sub! Enjoyed content as no other yt shows this!
I think flooding my board with alcohol has messed up my d-pad membranes, oh well.
Hey good work which temperature you use for that?
How much does this repair cost to get done?
Great stuff thanks!
2:48 370C and full air speed you said right?
One last thing before I proceed to replace the 4 main buttons with my soldering hot air gun. Since 91% ISO flood on my switches destroyed them, what do I use to clean all the acidic flux off with? Thank you.
@@Hamstr_Games it's my understanding that there's a non-metallic "sticky" membrane w/in the layers of the button and ANY solvent flood will break that down and do what it did to my switches. In all likelihood a flood of 99% would probably just do it faster.
@@Hamstr_Games that's good to know. I'm just pointing out it's likely not corrosion from 10% H2O its more likely due to that original "tape" being destroyed by solvent. Point is, don't flood the membrane switches with any type of solvent unless you purposely want to destroy them and either repair them like you did or completely replace with new like I did.
@@Hamstr_Games I think it had everything to do with a solvent disintegrating the tape. Because rubbing alcohol whether 70 or 91 or 99% will render tape inoperable; therefore, rendering the membrane switches inoperable.
@@Hamstr_Games with an adhesive non-metallic layer that can easily be damaged with solvent rendering "microswitches" inoperable.
Can you send a link to the new switches you used? Awesome video!
There are three types of switches that should work:
ALPS SKRRABE010 7.5*7*0.6 switch (similar to original grey ones)
ALPS SKRRAAE010 7.5*7*0.6 switch (similar to original grey ones)
Tactile SMD Switch 4*4*0.8mm (golden ones)
All are available on Aliexpress.
Where can I find a small soldering iron tip like the one you used in the video? I seem to have no luck finding one.
I realy needed this but where do i buy them
do yo know where can buy the bottons? i am from mexico and nice video!
Hi, hab dein Video gestern verschlungen. Hab mal ne Frage, wenn man den Gummikopf von der Taste löst um die Metallkontakte zu reinigen, kann man dann im Nachgang auch ein Stück Tape anstatt des Kopfes benutzen? Frage deswegen weil ich Sorge habe, dass der Gummikopf nicht mehr klebt und ich dann was basteln müsste... Wenn dem so ist, was für ein Tape würde funktionieren ?
Friend how to fix buttons misfiring like pressing the dpad-right button registers as dpad-down?
New to soldering, at 8:00 why do you not want to use flux? What would happen if it got everywhere?
no-clean flux doesnt oxidize as much as normal flux but sometimes isnt as helpful. if normal flux gets underneath or isnt cleaned well will oxidize components iirc
I had flux get under one of the buttons, once. It caused the button to have a slight "sticky" or "squelchy" sensation when released after being pressed down for more than a moment. I had to redo that button. So you have to be careful to not get flux underneath the switches. I wouldn't ever add extra flux after that experience, but I've used rosin-core solder for replacing switches like this, no problem. I use the second technique he demonstrated, where I apply solder to pads first, then wipe any excess flux, then position the switch and remelt the applied solder to attach it.
(Belated, but figured I'd answer in case someone else passing through saw this comment.)
Good work 👍
Was wondering if you had any info on how the buttons work.
I want to do a controller mod, wire in an external controller.
At 7:28 you said the opposing pins should be shorted, which would be 1and 3 on the motherboard.
Would 2 and 4 be shorted when you press the button?
If so, im assuming either 2 or 4 would have power and the other side would ground it?
Hopefully that what I said make sense.
With these switches, one side is pulled up to ~3.3v (a little bit less in reality). When the button is pressed it's shorted to ground, pulling the line low and the CPU recognizes this as the button being pressed. This is the same ground line that's shared with the entire console. Hope this helps
@@MitchCairns so either pin 1 or pin 3 would be grounded to pin 2 or pin 4 when pressed?
Would one be able to do this without a hot airgun?
Not recommended. Maybe with low melt solder
How do you know the orientation of the switches? The shorted patch faces North?
It only goes one way I guess haha
@@MitchCairns no I mean idk which way the switch goes on the board. You checked for continuity on one side and put that side north on the board?
@@thelopenator he needed to be more clear on this. I am ready to do my son's, will check with multimeter how the old ones are installed to be sure.
@@motleypixel I got mine working. thanks.
Can I get a bit of help with a Nintendo Gameboy Advance AGB-001? I get power passed the switch and to the 1st cap, but it still won’t turn on
Best if you hop on my discord server, there's a repair help channel there. Cheers!
@@MitchCairns how do I get there?
@@creations7241 it's linked in the description
I just did a job 3 days ago of the same thing but I didn't get the new part so I just cleaned them and it worked but I think it's better new! Do you know what is the exact measure to buy aliexpress? Why would various measures help with that? with respect to the pushbutton?
Do you think you can help repair my ds lite charging port if possible? Thanks in advance!
I do mail ins, you can contact me using the information in the description! 🙏
@@MitchCairns OK Thanks!